HOYT ALPHA X Bow Build w/ UV SLIDER (from bare bow to 90 yards)

My Whitetail Deer hunting bow setup for fall 2024!
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[@aarongilbertson3074]

Love the alpha x

[@robcarr8505]

I love my alpha x 33 It was so much smoother than the lift 33

[@wcwcgarner2717]

Nice bow enjoy it.

[@user-qc3fs8dv9y]

Nice

[@brucehillbillybarthalow3786]

I bought the Hoyt Z 1 S and we got a perfect bullet hole basically from the box. Then I started broadhead tuning out to 60 yards. I'll have to check out the bare shaft sometime. Great video Thanks for sharing. (We)Bow shop tech and I.

[@BowOnlyOutdoors]

That’s great to hear! If your broadheads are hitting right on with your field points, bareshafts tuning isn’t 100% necessary.

[@juanrodriguez-mu7ko]

Awesome! I’m a newbie always looking for info learning a lot thanks looks awesome.

[@BY-dq3mt]

Thanks for the video. I see you went from carbon back to aluminum. Just wanting a change? Or have you concluded one is better than the other for your use case?

[@cliffnicholson2210]

Good video bud.

[@Untitled669]

Whenever I’m comparing fletched and bareshaft point of impact, I always nock tune my bareshaft arrows. As I shoot them, I’ll see which nock position creates the best flight. I’ve seen a bareshaft hit 3-4” away from fletched at 20 yards, then I spin the nock on the bareshaft to see what happens and I’ve gotten the point of impact variance down to a half inch between fletched and bareshaft without touching anything on the bow.

[@BowOnlyOutdoors]

Great addition! We’ve done variations of the same thing by taking a dozen bareshafts, shooting them as a group with the fletched arrows, finding the outliers and twisting the nocks until they fly with the group. Realistically we’ve found it better to just tune off of the main group of bareshafts compared to the fletch for the initial tune, and then do this with fletchings through paper after the fact, rotating the nocks until the tears are perfect. Very important for good consistent broadhead flight!

[@norcaljeeping434]

How is it compared to the rx7 30"? I'm having trouble getting use to my rx7, feel like I want to go back to a 33"

[@user-nx8vp5sy5d]

piccatiny mount, your stuck at one distance with the sight or can you shorten or lengthen it? looks like you can’t torque tune it?

[@tinfoiltim7593]

What power lens?

[@coreywallroff]

Lookin good! Where is this range?

[@jaredgreen2524]

I want to know also. Looks like a really nice range.

[@andymussack]

How straight is the arrow sitting in the bow with just an arrow nocked and the bow at brace height? Looking at the bow from the top down, is the arrow angled coming out of the bow?

[@BowOnlyOutdoors]

Yes after fully tuning this bow even more after this video, this particular bow tunes with the arrow on the outside edge of center shot

[@andymussack]

@@BowOnlyOutdoors Yeah, on my Alpha X 33 I shimmed both cams all the way to the left and got the center shot at 13/16"...but the arrow was on the bow at a wicked angle when at brace height. It was very unsightly! So, I shimmed the top cam back over to the right and kept the bottom cam over to the left. Needed to then move the rest to the right so now the center shot is more like 3/4". Now it looks so much better!! It shoots broadheads and field points together at 40 yards.

[@nathanlechman1626]

What quiver are you using?

[@BowOnlyOutdoors]

The bow quiver is the Hoyt Superlite QD 6, the hip quiver is a Neet N-495 field quiver

[@lkoehn9727]

Last white string you will ever put on a hunting bow

[@anoogwapictou2061]

What grain arrow you shooting?

[@BowOnlyOutdoors]

467 grains

[@mikezmac]

So I have a newb question. Will all alpha x 30" use the same suit tape?

[@BowOnlyOutdoors]

The correct sight tape for each individual bow differs quite a bit based on factors such as draw weight, draw length, arrow weight, peep sight position, and more, so each individual bow setup will have it’s own unique arrow trajectory and speed that will correspond to a specific sight tape for each individual shooter

[@mikezmac]

@@BowOnlyOutdoors thank you. I was planning on increasing my poundage eventually so I should probably go from 65 to 70 before I finish siting in then. Ty.

[@blakerawlins2066]

Do you work on other peoples bows?

[@BowOnlyOutdoors]

Now a days we work on close friends and families mostly.

[@callmebigdaddy850]

So I have a problem with all these guys talking about bare shaft tuning and doing it out to 40 yards and beyond then making a statement that paper tuning is not this and that. Do they realize how many new archers listen to this and think that if they can’t sling a bare shaft at 60 yards and hit the same as their fletched arrows there is something wrong with their bow? How about watch guys like Tim Gillingham, who’s a pro competition archer, and who extensively paper tunes each arrow and tells you that while you can bare shaft tune, it is not the best way to tune your bow and that you are NOT shooting bare shafts in competition or hunting! You are shooting fletched arrows.

[@BowOnlyOutdoors]

We completely understand where you’re coming from and will have to expand more on this in another video as we certainly don’t want to put off the wrong impression. Paper tuning definitely has its place, and we certainly use it like Tim does, to get each fletched arrow to fly perfectly out of our bow once the bow is tuned, but it is not the end be all when it comes to tuning a bow that’s going to shoot broadheads. Bareshafts are an exaggerated reaction to what a broadhead tipped arrow will do. Not important for target archery, but important when it comes to broadhead flight. They are of course, very finicky, and more often than not, the variation at any distance will be from the archer, not the bow, which is why we tune off of averages and how good you are able to shoot. Unfortunately many bowhunters paper tune at one close up distance in a pro shop and get a perfect tear through paper at 3’ and 10’ with one arrow and call their tuning “good”. There can be more to the story here and they may not get their broadheads to impact right on with their field points which is where bareshafts can come into play to help. Lots of variables here at play, but we have more videos on our channel that go more in depth on this, and we will continue to make more soon. Thank you for your comment!

[@ecrank83]

Reading the tears while paper tuning is also very hard for new archers. It's good to paper tune to ball park it, then bare shaft to 30 if you plan on using broadheads for hunting. If you're just doing target archery, you can just paper tune, it doesn't matter as much.

[@user-nx8vp5sy5d]

twine cams need a back stabiliser, thing i dislike about them. single cams i dont use stabilisers, they shoot so well without any. single cams dont need bow press to replace sting or cable, only iff you want to replace a cam. bowtec had a bianary cam you could replace the cables or string without a press. new bows, the shimming crap sucks, factories cant make cams centered any more what a fcking joke. modern equals downwards in practical application so bow shops or press companies profit mor. cost off modern flagship are not worth the costs, way overpriced for the sponsed queter, less vibration lies. they are not quite or less vibration or faster then bows build in the mid to late 2000

[@user-nx8vp5sy5d]

hoyt, pse and elite are bows ive never liked, over advertised hype, always over stated in performance. any bow you can drie fire, replace stings and limbs and not have riser failure.