HPI E10 DRIFT: REAR WHEEL DRIVE Modified setup

[@meister3pc]

If you could do a video of how to set up the tie rods and added those new prices that'd be great...

[@datmanwavy0220]

If take out the drive shaft, at the front there’s an adapter piece you can take out that disconnects it from the front wheels also helps an is a bit quick if you like to switch back and forth etc.

[@ZspotMotorsport]

I don't really know what to tell you... its more cutting/customizing than buying parts. The only thing you need to buy would be something to make the tie rods and something to extend the bellcranks out. I used regular threaded rod for the tie rods and airplane control horns for the bellcranks (but there is probably a better option). Check out your local hobby shop for those items. All the hardware you need should be 3x10-15mm screws, locknuts and maybe a few washers.

[@ZspotMotorsport]

Yes, drill the hole as far forward on the hub as possible, and trim anywhere the bellcranks or hubs hit when steering

[@ZspotMotorsport]

The link in the description should explain it thoroughly enough to figure out. If you aren't a member of the Drift Mission forum, sign up... lots of good info on the site, and most of my updates will go in that thread. I've got some new parts on the car and have a friend of mine designing a decent set of bellcranks in a CAD program and we're going to make them on a 3D printer. I also plan to mount the servo somewhere up front to reduce the slop associated with the long steering arm.

[@Bazellr]

can you send me links for the steering linkage parts? and any guide on how to cut the front hubs?

[@ZspotMotorsport]

When I first built the car I locked the rear diff with silly putty. Recently, I bought the HPI spool rear end and CVD driveshafts, but they aren't necessary and I can't notice a difference with them except a sort of throttle inertia because the spool and metal CVDs are heavier than the stock stuff. When you let off the throttle its like the car has a heavy flywheel; you can feel the momentum... its strange. I'll do another video when I have some substantial progress

[@Finnamakeausername]

I just got a e10 and like to do this same setup. To get a better turning radius what do i have to cut?

[@Mr21JOSH]

I just finished steering mod with a Hitec servo do you have any recommendations for a brushless combo and a battery I'll get my gyro later

[@ZspotMotorsport]

Check out my topic about the build on Drift Mission (you may need to register to see the topic). I just added the link to the video description. I used Traxxas #1942 rod ends with 3x12mm button head screws and 4-40 fully threaded rod. Most hobby shops should have that. Alternatively, you could use 4-40 snap ball cups and ball ends for the rod ends; I may try that in the future. Theres a lot of slop in the bellcranks and trying to come up with a way to fix that

[@Finnamakeausername]

Sweet ok thanks man! And your post said you used washers? Could you send me a link to where i can get the same ones you used?

[@Finnamakeausername]

please do a update man? and are the mugen titanium button head screws good?

[@Finnamakeausername]

Sorry for blowing you up on here but if you can please message me the links to where i can buy everything you have for it to turn like that?

[@Finnamakeausername]

Also do you have a locked diff in the rear? And when you do move your servo can you do a update video? I like what your doing with it.

[@Finnamakeausername]

Did you drill new holes in the hub and cut the excess plastic that the arms connected to?

[@ZspotMotorsport]

If you buy a 12" piece of 4-40 rod you should have enough enough. Maybe 2 pieces if you screw up. To go rear wheel drive all you have to do is disassemble the front end and remove the differential and dog bones. RWD is definitely harder than 4wd. It takes a lot of throttle control and is usually at lower speeds. I don't know that I will ever be able to make it 'easy'...

[@moonmanmigz]

It's easy to move the motor to the back. I have a RC build of a e10 I made rwd. But mine is slow.

[@ZspotMotorsport]

MOONMANMIGZ yeah, I never tried it with the motor at the back. When i did this a few years ago, front motor cars were all the rage and i think the weight was more valuable in the front. It likely would have pushed a lot with the weight in the back. Its been so long ago and car is long gone, I dont really remember lol

[@moonmanmigz]

Mark Pelto I still have mine you can check it out in my channel MOONMANMIGZ

[@Finnamakeausername]

I read that post you had like 10 times and so far i just need the t horns, 4-40 x12" rods, and rod end ball. How many 4-40 rods do i need man? Can you do a video on how you did rwd? And is it hard to drive rwd?

[@vjr34]

Hi, I just read the drift mission article but the pictures are not available anymore. Do you still have them by chance?

[@ZspotMotorsport]

Sorry, that stuff is probably long gone. Photobucket pics all got deleted. It was fabricobbled together with random stuff from the hobby shop. Basically I just made the bellcranks longer to have more throw, and cut up the steering knuckles to get more throw & moved the mounting point for the tie rod closer to the center. Nowadays, it would probably be easier to buy parts from another chassis & retrofit; the geometry was pretty bad on the stuff I put together. :)

[@bendover3333]

any updates on this setup ? running my e10 rwd done pretty much everything you did but cant get rear grip and high speed or sweeping drifts i don't use a gyro and was thinking of changing my tires any recommendations ?

[@ignasfilipovas7871]

If you have the manual look up how to disassemble. You can instead move engine to the back, turn it into rwd only.

[@ZspotMotorsport]

I don't have the car any more, but the big problem with getting it to drive properly was the lack of steering angle which this video primarly focused on. I considered moving the motor to the back, but it throws off the weight balance. You actually want the weight on the front. With most of the weight in the rear, the weight acts like a pendulum and swings the car around, its hard to transition or even control a slide.

[@ignasfilipovas7871]

I actually done it recently, removed the shaft and most of the weight in the front. all stock, find it pretty good. what have you got now?

[@ZspotMotorsport]

I've had a few "nice" RWD chassis. Eagle Racing, Street Jam, Sakura D3, MST, but since the carpet track in my area closed I've been out of the hobby for a couple of years.

[@narutosasuke9733]

I went ahead and tried the conversion with no gyro (still waiting for the one i ordered) but the car just spins out. Does the gyro make that big of a difference? An observation i made is the the front wheels dont spin at the same rate once the car starts getting sideways, is that normal?

[@ZspotMotorsport]

naruto sasuke yes, the gyro will make all the difference in the world. Its pretty much undriveable without it. You can get a cheap heli gyro, just about any kind will work. You just cannot counter/correct the steering precisely enough without one.

[@narutosasuke9733]

Mark Pelto sweet thanks for the reply. I have one on the way so ill try it again once i get it.

[@moonmanmigz]

naruto sasuke yea man you really can't drift rwd with out a gyro. It's what gives you the control you need to actually drift. But I have seen some guys who modified there RC cars well enough to the point it can drift with out a gyro. But that really take more skills. And more time to get your RC car just right.

[@Finnamakeausername]

Just bought 3x15mm screws will that work?

[@Finnamakeausername]

what all do i need?

[@Finnamakeausername]

What size washers did you use?

[@ribbon07]

nice!

[@ZspotMotorsport]

I've dnever used them... I'm sure they're good but probably a major waste of money. I use cheap hardware from the local hobby shop.