HQST MPPT 20A 40A 60A Lithium Solar Charge Controller Review

[@HOBOTECH]

The Professor reviews the HQST 20A 40A and 60A MPPT solar charge controllers for use with Lead or LiFePO4 12v 24v 36v 48v battery banks. Includes built in Parallel Ability, Bluetooth, and Low Temperature Charging Protection! CHECK OUT HQST MPPT: gohobo.io/hqstmppt use code HOBOTECH10 [PROOF 20A/40A controllers also have LOW TEMP CUTOFF kzbin.infosRsq9YqlLxk ]

[@Mae-nr7wr]

where is da ecoflow delta 2 max review !!!

[@Fogatti910]

Awesome!!

[@afolayandammy9161]

What is the name of the bluetooth app please

[@5thdayadventures]

Looks like the code HOBOTECH10 is no longer being accepted

[@charlestresnicky1144]

Thank You Professor! I got the 40amp while on sale and set it up this weekend, hoping to upgrade later on panels and run another 40 amp parallel. Cheers

[@vidzilla1]

I have been using this solar charger controller for 8 months, very happy with it !

[@jtnoodle]

update us in a couple years.

[@d.l.sstudio8922]

@@jtnoodleI’ve had mine for 9 months or so now and it’s been perfect. I bought a second 60A controller to charger for a total of 120A! Haven’t installed the second yet but will soon.

[@airinbone]

This is my choice in price range. It offers so much.

[@iggykoopa7756]

I have had mine for a bit over a year, its hooked up to 3 110ah 12v deep cycles with 3 renogy solar panels running into it. Works awesome and ive been really impressed with it.

[@davidgunther8428]

I picked up the 40A charger a few months ago. Having built in Bluetooth and the low self power consumption were the selling points.

[@mkuhlman77]

I've been using the 20A version for 3 years now and love it. I was just thinking about get more power but noticed I'd already maxed her out. I didn't realize you could add another controller. This is great news. Thanks for the review. I'll keep buying these over Renergy any day .

[@wndy7073]

I want to get this; 10% off of $89.oo on this 20 amp model would be a fantastic bargain 😀

[@junkerzn7312]

You can put as many charge controllers on your battery as you want, up to the current limit that the battery supports. Though its nice (they all switch charging stages simultaneously when they have comms)... charge controllers don't actually need to know that there are other charge controllers on the system. So if you have a battery bank, bus bars, and battery wiring that can handle charging at 100A, nothing is stopping you from putting 5 x 20A charge controllers on the system. (Each charge controller being only 20A can use 10 AWG wiring. The battery cabling itself would have to be 2 AWG to handle 100A reasonably well). For the same reason, you can hang multiple inverters off of a battery bank such that the total amperage they pull does not exceed the bank/wiring capabilities. -Matt

[@Cabernet2000]

Ordered the 60. Thank you, HOBO. Will buy 20,40 later as I expand versatility. Just getting going.

[@astrobob9432]

I have had the 40amp model for about the last year. No real issues with it yet. I was unaware of the low temp cutoff feature, thanks for showing us! Go Hobo!

[@Datzneat]

Picked one up to replace the pwm charger that came with my old flexible Renogy panels. Just need a good inverter charger and the cabling/tools to make it all work now. Thanks for the discount.

[@thedabbler2753]

I have the 60A. A couple of other things of note. DC load terminal control (dusk/dawn/timer) and battery charge parameters can be controlled completely from the app. Regarding the auto 12/24/48v claim on the front, what I found was that it wasn't actually auto. What happened on switching from 12 to 24v LI was that it registered 26.5v coming in and flashed the error light at me until I changed the system voltage to 24v. Perhaps that's a safety mechanism, and certainly not a big deal by any means, but I thought it would just automatically switch. Other than that and perhaps wishing the Bluetooth range was a bit further without having to buy an external antennae, I love the 60A. It's so well built, it just works, and at a price that should embarrass the likes of Victron (yeah, 31 bucks for the temp sensor *wire* Victron, really???). Great job HQST :)

[@junkerzn7312]

It probably works the same as the Victron where it is auto upon initial commissioning, but after that if you change the battery voltage you have to adjust the charger controller manually. Definitely a safety feature because you don't want a charge controller mistaking a dead battery with a lower-voltage battery.

[@texasprepperprojects]

I have the 20amp when I built my solar cart. I was pleasantly surprised with the bluetooth app. I also have their solar panels. I think that their pricing is great and I was pleased with the build quality.

[@junkerzn7312]

HQST has some great solar panels. The 9BBs and now 10BBs are great panels.

[@Mr.Avuncular]

Thanks professor for the heads up and great price Bang bang!

[@souljahroch2519]

I had a 20amp EPEver, & bought a 20amp HQST from my neighbor. I liked the HQST so much, I bought another, & tossed the EPEver in the garage✌️

[@Ambohouse]

Low temp cut-off in a budget controller.. without paying the big blue price.. this is gonna be my next controller

[@BobBob-il2ku]

Same

[@rickreid5896]

Send their customer support an email saying your having trouble with a unit you just bought. No answer. Send them another one to the same customer support saying you want to buy there 60a controller. Wow, you just got an answer but not about that first email.

[@Dan-p6b]

I tried these, not the worst but LNEX are way better, easier, only setup is choice of battery! I have two systems, two sets of batteries and two sets of solar panels! Both sets of solar panels are connected to LNEX PWM controller's. Never had an issue and charge more amps than a handful of MPPT controllers!

[@Golfreak]

I have the same exact HQST but 40a version. It is rock solid and runs very cool. I find the parallel feature not needed. I have the HQST and a SCNE 20a mppt both charging the same battery bank and it's not a problem.

[@junkerzn7312]

Right. You don't need the paralleling feature. The worst that happens is that the various charge controllers don't switch charge stage states in tandem. That can be a bit of an eyesore but it doesn't really hurt anything.

[@MrGreenejr100]

Professor, thank you so much for the review of the HQST 40 amp. I have two other more expensive controllers that are not nearly as good as this one is!. The Bluetooth interface works great compared to my other controllers and this thing really runs great.. it is much cooler than my other controllers handling the same load. Your review inspired me to buy it so thank you. I used your code hopefully you will get a kick back!! Thanks again.

[@KA9DSL]

It looks more friendly user and more versatile than my Renogy MPPT. Nice price. Might order one!

[@mikeh1589]

Thanks HOBOTECH. You saved me some money on some HQST 60 Amp charge controllers 😎

[@davef.2329]

These controllers are great. We now have 4 of them in service and after installing the first one, replaced 3 other functional units of other brands with these, since they work so well. Have a variety of panels from them that work great, too. Good, reliable, quality equipment.

[@mrdemascal]

Do you have various watts/amps strings of panels running to them? I have 2 400w strings paralleled into our current 60A unit. Want to add 400 to 600 more watts with a 40 amp controller. From your experience will having 600watts on one controller and 800 on the other decrease the input from the 800 unit? Hope that wording makes sense?

[@stevecarlisle3323]

Would be very helpful if you explain Advanced Settings mode, and what options are available. Thanks for the video.

[@JeffRoush]

I wish I had seen your video first! I just bought the Li Time version of this ( I was buying their batteries so I figured I'd stay in their ecosystem ). It looks to be the exact same device with a different paint job, but they must have modified the firmware. Mine does not have the setting to tun on/off the low temp cutoff and, even though it came with the temperature probe, their version of the manual specifically says to NOT use the temperature probe with LiFePO4 batteries. Odd that it came with the probe but has no way to turn the function on/off. Anyway, thanks for the great video!

[@2hotscottpro]

Wonder what’s up with that.But you have 5 year warranty vs just one.

[@lawrencedavidson6195]

I got the LiTime 60 amp controller on sale on Amazon for $204.00 Nov 2023. Since then the price is up to $270.00. When i upgrade i will be getting the HQST 60A as the price is waay better at $220.00

[@HimitsuYama]

My Victron equipment has always been rock solid, though at a price. It would be great if another vendor provided equipment of similar quality at a reduced price. I’ll keep my eye on HQST.

[@retrozmachine1189]

If you are looking at these things look into helios (the OEM that makes it) M4860N

[@superphotog]

@@retrozmachine1189 - Low temp cut out on Helios? Went to their website and no mention of low temp protection.

[@stevecarlisle3323]

Okay, there are many companies selling these re branded Helios units, so what's your point ?​@@retrozmachine1189

[@jalindell]

Heck yeah, I have the small one the 20amp and I love it.

[@rvertv]

what a great price. good review and video

[@HOBOTECH]

Thanks!

[@jamesthompson7282]

Great review of a good product with extensive feature set at a VERY competitive price. Prof. Hobo delivers!

[@greglp970]

Just to let everyone know… I was planning on purchasing three (3) 60A MPPT controllers. I sent a question to their “sales” email address (the ONLY email address there is) on Feb 24, 2024 and I did NOT get a response. I sent another email on March 3, 2024 and have NOT gotten response. So… I went to their website looking for a phone # to call them. Nope NO phone #!! That was it FOR me!! If they’re NOT willing to answer “SALES” enquiry emails and there’s NO phone # to call… You can FORGET about EVER filling a warranty claim!!

[@thayne559]

Im glad I saw this video. I just ordered a piece of junk eco-worthy 60 amp controller last week on amazon and after setting it up I found it doesnt work. Im retuning it and just ordered this one! and it was only $20 more when ordering from their website!

[@trumpingtonfanhurst694]

I always enjoy your vids, thanks hobo 😊

[@vaughnsvideos]

Hey Tom. Sorry I dropped Patreon support, after two years I was just not in the market for a SoGen and was really here for the campervan stuff and I am about to retire and your channel is doing well, so I just had to tighten the belt a little. Still think you are great though and wish you the best of luck and I like to see things like this mixed in. Maybe things will line up again in the future and I can toss more love your way.

[@joshuafreeman9792]

I have the 20 and 40 pluses one of the srn looking one the had before love them all

[@ChrisDeLuca]

I figure the reason the smaller one becomes the master is because. It cannot handle as much input nor can it run a 48 V system. Therefore they will default to the least common. Denominator which would be the smaller of the two units

[@Avman3369]

My thoughts also. It would also work for the 60A controller to be the primary if when it was installed in parallel with the 20/40A units and be limited to 12/24V settings automatically.

[@2hotscottpro]

Go the advanced settings, change your float voltage to 13.6 and change your Boost voltage to not more than 13.9v. Once you set your boost voltage above 13.9, the error happens. If you set your boost voltage below 13.9, you wont have the issue again. However that means you wont be able to fully harness the power of your solar panels. Lifepo4 battery ideally use 14.6v as boost voltage

[@junkerzn7312]

The boost voltage generally has to be 14.2V when using generic 4s LiFePO4 batteries, otherwise their internal balancers won't ever trigger. 14.6V is 3.65V/cell which is typically the BMS disconnect voltage... you generally don't want to charge the batteries to that point. The BMS low and high voltage disconnects are always supposed to be the last line of defense, not the first line of defense and the high voltage disconnect can cause the charge controllers to over-volt the battery bus when it trips. The float should always be between 13.4V and 13.5V ( 3.35V/cell to 3.375V/cell). Any lower and you lose capacity when dropping down to the float, any higher and the float will overcharge the battery if held long enough. -Matt

[@2hotscottpro]

I copied that from someone else that had issue from the comments.

[@chrisreynolds6331]

I bought a bench power supply last week it's ideal for testing MPPT controllers

[@austindishman6338]

Thank for doing the short video to answer my question

[@JaiManny]

Just bought one... Simply based on this video.

[@nirbhaokhalsa4636]

Thank you for the video. Have you done a review on any of the HQST batteries or solar panels?

[@NotMeeither]

I wish that this video had came out before.I ordered a new charge controller!

[@rickreid5896]

Don't worry, you saved yourself some money.

[@Banagal]

Thanks for this review.

[@superphotog]

I wanted to buy the 60amp one but $$ ($290CDN) and current and 'immediate future' solar plans for an emergencies and RVing will not be requiring the 60amp model so I ordered the 40amp. #1 consideration was built in low temp cut off so I can use the refurbished non-heated mini lifepo4's from Power Queen and Li Time. The Li-Time was partially Hobotech's recommendation with an assist from John Daniel. There has been talk in the solar power forums as to the relationship between HQST and Renogy. I would say joined at the hip. My order acknowledgement for the HQST controller was from Renogy. Photos in the forums of products received from all HQST products orders have some pieces arrive in Renogy packaging. I would guess part of the strategy is to have a lower cost outlet as one pays royally for Renogy. The other, much to the chagrin of their Canadian customers, is how bad Renogy's customer service reputation is. They have a BBB rating of 1.15. Products are respected, relied on and 'top shelf,' customer service is abysmal.

[@UPdan]

Loving my HQST. Better look at the vtoman Prospeed 3000. Wow !!! Loving that display panel.

[@MikeJordanUnCamplicated]

Love my HQST panels. I've got an RV full of the Blue stuff. But looking for a DC-DC charger and I don't want to spend Blue stuff money this time around. I have my eye on that other HQST related unmentionable brand. But HQST needs to jump on the DC-DC charger band wagon

[@cardinhamkilligrew9712]

I am saving for the 20 AMP now...

[@rtpman1953]

Thanks for the well-done video. I've been using a MPPT controller that handles the same voltage/amps but no parallel. If I factor in the Bluetooth app instead of a remote display, it makes sense to slowly switch over to this.

[@jasonpotts6490]

This sounds like a great alternative to a Victron. I had decided I was stuck with Victron since I was going to use batteries without low-temp protection and was instead planning on using the $900 Victron to shut charging down if the temp drops. Now you asked an important question for me regarding whether or not the better app is worth the extra money. Since I've used neither, could you or someone please help me understand what I'd lose if I didn't go with Victron? I'd probably still go with a Multiplus inverter because of its low idle power consumption, but would I really miss out on anything if I can't use the mppt part of the victron amp? Thanks to anyone who can enlighten me on this. I'd rather just buy two 40A HQST units for ~$225 than spend ~$900 on a Victron if I don't really gain anything other than some bells/whistles and possibly longevity. P.S. I always stick around to the end of your videos just to see Odin's commands! Funny AF

[@junkerzn7312]

If you have the Victron shunt or any other Victron device with a temperature sensor capability in the Victron virtual bluetooth network, all the charge controllers can use it and they will all shutdown and restart in tandem using that one sensor. Any serious system is going to want to have a shunt anyway, and generally you don't want the charge controllers to each have their own temp sensor because you might have multiple charge controllers in the system and that would become a bit of a mess. Even just having a master with a temp sensor is not ideal... the shunt will be a lot closer to the battery than the charge controllers, typically. The Victron 100/20 is a much cheaper device than the 60A HQST. Half the cost. Less than half the cost. And while it is only 20A, at 51.2V that is still 1000W of solar. You would be hard-pressed to find a solar topology that actually produces 60A @ 51.2V with the HQST due to the HQST's voltage limit. But if your solar topology does that for you, then perhaps the HQST is the way to go. In most cases though the panel groups are far enough apart that you want them on separate MPPTs and not all ganged onto one MPPT. -Matt

[@phillipzx3754]

When I looked up the HQST headquarters address using Google Earth, it seems this is a brand of Renogy? And since the new Li Time controllers look the same as the HQST models, is Li Time also a Renogy brand? Not that I have an issue with it. Just trying to connect the manufacturing dots.

[@pdieppa]

Yes!!!! Thank you for the fx!!!!

[@TheCornucopiaProject-bd5jk]

I would certainly go for the 60amp model. I think you should have a charge controller that can supply enough energy for a 12v 100ah battery. Speaking of battery cables. I use 4/0 cable to and from the battery (via busbar) as well as the inverter and I use 4awg cable for pretty much everything else. Welding cable of course.

[@davidgunther8428]

At 60A charge rate, a 100Ah battery is pretty small, and going to often leave the solar panel output under utilized. 🤔

[@TheCornucopiaProject-bd5jk]

@@davidgunther8428 depends on the size of the solar array. In a Van or RV 300-1200 watt of solar is common, with most people being between 300-600 watt. That 60amp charge controller handles 900 watt of solar.

[@davidgunther8428]

@@TheCornucopiaProject-bd5jk at 600W the charge time for 12.8V 100Ah battery would be about 2.5 hours. The rest of the day the solar would barely be utilized. At 900W in, I think the battery would be in constant current charging for less than an hour, then start to taper. This is why I thought 100Ah is small for a 60A charger.

[@TheCornucopiaProject-bd5jk]

@@davidgunther8428 ok, I re-read my original statement. I wasn’t clear. I think the 20 and 40amp controllers are undersized even for a 100ah battery. While the 20amp 300watt controller can charge a battery in a day, I rather have the “option” to add solar panels to either charge my battery faster and/or get a full charge even during bad weather conditions. I like to have expansion capabilities even if I don’t exercise them. So I’d always get the larger model

[@BobBob-il2ku]

Can you change the tempature cutoff from 0 Celsius to 5 Celsius for example?

[@kevinroberts781]

The smaller one needs to be the master because its more limited. You don't want the 60 amp model telling the 20 amp model to do something it can't do.

[@michaelball7440]

I have two 60a units in parallel mode and I see no difference in operation either with or without this mode. What exactly is supposed to occur in parallel. And I have, of course, two solar panel banks, 800w and 760w. Starting either controller first, making that the master, makes no difference either...

[@2hotscottpro]

Cable seems to be a joke? I have 2 60a controllers also going to 1 bat bank.Cable paring didn’t make so I only need to see 1 controller on app.Weird

[@2hotscottpro]

LiTime says cable was only used in development.We don’t need one.😊

[@Ellifiknow]

Good observation.

[@jchal5180]

Really like this

[@ericklein5097]

That minute delay might be put in the firmware on purpose to prevent any false readings or something that would cause the sensor to be exposed to a really cold gust of air for a brief period of time

[@WhatNowChris]

You should do a complete video on controllers and LifePo4 batteries. I purchased a ampere time 200ah LiPo4 after your review of the battery. I have a renogy rover 40amp charge controller, when I throw it on Li settings, it flashes over charge. I’m not sure why. I contacted ampere time, they told me to put in user settings, and the battery charges fine now, only problem is once the sun goes down and there’s a small load on it, the volts drop to 13.1 volts. According to the book that’s 50-60% charged(something like that). Is that normal? Maybe a bad battery? Please help! Thank you.

[@HOBOTECH]

That's normal.

[@junkerzn7312]

It actually looks quite decent, very similar to Victron charge controllers though I dunno if they have the level of device integration that Victron has. Particularly if one has a shunt in the system. Victron has a number of very flexible relay control features. You can always parallel charge controllers, no integration required for that. But Victron's can be ganged together in a virtual bluetooth network so they will communicate with each other without any cabling. Now one area where the Victron really falls short is the auxiliary Load output. Only some of Victron's smaller charge controllers have it, and more importantly the Victron load output can't handle startup surges... for example, if you are trying to power a small inverter or grid-tie microinverter from the load output, or any device with input capacitors, the Victron will fall flat and not be able to enable the output (it thinks it is shorted and gives up). So I wonder how the HQST controller deals with startup surges like that, and also whether the HQST can handle the full 20A on a 48V system, as well as a bit of power factor, without blowing up its load switch (which is usually a FET). I also wonder what kind of solar "voltage" headroom is required above the battery voltage to be able to get the full output. It is fairly typical for very high efficiency charge controllers to be buck-only (rather than buck-boost). This means that the solar operating voltage has to be a number of volts above the battery voltage to be able to push full amps into the battery. Usually 5-10V or so. It looks on the face of it that the HQST is passively heat-sinked, as is the Victron, which is a big plus. Any charge controller that requires a fan is a charge controller that you should never buy. Its too bad that HQST only offers 48V support with their 60A charge controller. And for a premium too, $220. That is not competitive with Victron's SmartSolar 100/20 which is also able to handle 48V battery systems and is only $90. At 48V (well, 51.2V nominal), 20A is usually plenty for a small system... over 1000W and generally one is already ganging a few strings together to get it so you generally want a separate MPPT input for any further expansion. A lot of the 60A capability of the HQST is going to be wasted due to the limited voltage range the HQST support. Victron has a more balanced, useful offering in this regard. -Matt

[@2626sylver2626]

Sir you won yourself another subscriber 🙂🙂

[@nikolatesla5553]

I have been extra concerned about the low temperature shutoff. My Lithium battery bank is my most expensive part of my system. At Sunrise in the Northwest thr temperature is often below or hovering around freezing. I would hate to have to replace $1500 of batteries of because of freezing temperatures. Can a minute of charging cause damage? I would feel more comfortable if i could set a temperature shutoff a little above freezing. But I admit I might be just paranoid. Any opinions?

[@DeliberateNRandom]

Even Will Prowse has recommended HQST in the past. I bought one solar panel from them and a couple Renogy ones more recently.

[@alaingoyette7103]

Thanks for this great informative video. I had not heard of that product before. I have looked at their documentation and could not find the minimum PV input voltage to get it running. Do you have this information? 🤔😊

[@jheighten7568]

I just bought Yuma 200w flexible panel. Would I be able to use the 60A. ?

[@HOBOTECH]

Yep

[@BobBob-il2ku]

Epever AN series charge controllers updated there firmware & now have the low temp Charge protection too but you have to enable it via a pc with there usb cable

[@superphotog]

And they generally cost more feature for feature.

[@brucewoytassek9299]

Thanks for doing what you do! I am educating myself on Solar and you are a good part of my education! I currently have 2 190 watt panels in parallel , 2 wet 12VDC 100 AH batteries in parallel and a 30 amp PWM charge controller. Thinking of upgrading to MPPT controller, smart shunt and eventually Lithium batteries. Would the 60 AMP controller work on my 30 amp system so I can upgrade as finances are ready? (Travel trailer) -- PS: I think you should offer a "HOBO Certificate" for watchers! Thanks again! bw in ND.

[@jonamadio8726]

I tried the 40 amp version. The unit arrived, obviously used. It was covered in dirt, screen scratched, etc. Hooked it up to 2x 385w panels in full sun and a new lifepo4 at 75% charge. I never got more that 32 watts input to the battery. Returned it for a replacement, but the replacement was more used and filthy than the first one. Tried to hook it up to teat it, but one of the battery terminals was broken. I think I'm done with these. I had such high hopes!

[@davidpatrick1813]

V V for victory for var var varsity. 🙂 Nice review

[@4428314]

Good Lord, you are a fountain of information! Thank you for your expl

[@Nemo_IRL]

It's interesting that you can parallel 2 of these together but I'm wondering what are the advantages of doing so, since you can run multiple charge controllers on one battery bank anyway.

[@Golfreak]

That's what I posted. I have 2 different mppts on 1 battery bank and I have zero problem.

[@junkerzn7312]

Multiple charge controllers will read different battery voltages on the battery bus due to a combination of differences in the voltage sensor and differences in the currents each charge controller is pushing. Generally speaking the comms are just there so the charge controllers change battery charging states in tandem. e.g. Bulk -> Absorb, Absorb -> Float, Float -> Bulk. It is not absolutely necessary that it happen, it's just less of an eyesore when they are synchronized. The network will choose one charge controller's voltage reading and all the units will use that one source. In a Victron system, for example, this is automatic when the charge controllers are on the same Bluetooth VNET. In addition, the Victron app will blare warnings at you if any of the charge controllers have different parameter settings.

[@johnshaw359]

Seems logical that the smaller unit takes control. They switch as a safety feature when you change critical parameters.

[@astrobob9432]

Hey, Hobo! when will you have a review on the Bluetti AC180?

[@mikesgarage394]

Hmm, that explains why the screen pictures in the manule are identical to thos in the wanderer manual.

[@stevecarlisle3323]

Thanks for your helpfull videos. I have poor solar in the winter months in the north. I also see you have been bench testing charge controllers with lab constant power supply. Is it possible for me to switch between solar source, or wind power ?

[@ThunderChicken1]

Something else that's not in the manual. How do you set the WH rating on the 2440N

[@MrBumbles2]

hqst, redodo, li time all have these out. some the bluetooth works some don't lol. my renogy died looking at one of these

[@superphotog]

Don't think Redodo or Li Time have low temp cutoff. I saw the insides of the Redodo and the HQST and they were different circuit boards.

[@davidcarrico3385]

A couple of questions on the 20mpg model. Could this be used to charge something like a Bluetti eb70s? If so, since it supports 12 and 24 volt charging, what would it auto detect from the eb70s’ 8mm port? Also, and I’m not sure what the right term is, but what’s the charge voltage for a 24v lfp battery? I believe it’s in the 14s for a 12 v, does that mean for a 24v that it would be in the 28s or 29s (possibly exceeding the eb70s’ 28v max)? I doubt it would be financially advantageous to do this just to get a few extra w out of my panels, but I have been on a quest of how to squeak out the most efficient charging given the eb70s’ limits, without purchasing their panels, which are fairly expensive. I currently own two 120w panels and I think their VoC is something like 21.7v ish (can’t remember the exact spec off the top of my head), so I hit the 8amp limit on the eb70s before hitting 200w of input.

[@HOBOTECH]

Solar generators already have built in solar controllers so you can't use this on those.

[@21degrees]

Great Vid! Thanx

[@SolarSun-wp6oh]

I would like you to test out sunthysis charge controller there is only one other KZbinr that has tested and it is half the price but is it as good don't know

[@joeclark9042]

Very good video buddy I really enjoyed this I got to ask you a question will this do flood batteries also please let me know if so I'm going to buy me a couple of these things thank you very much

[@HOBOTECH]

Yes

[@chadrogers3161]

Looking at the 40 amp model now....if my panels are under the 100 volts voc but they produce about 900 watts out of the 4 panels will this blow the controller??

[@HOBOTECH]

The controller will simply limit to 40A output.

[@chadrogers3161]

@@HOBOTECH thanks sir!

[@EasyyokeFilms]

Bought this after watching your review because I always trust products that you recommend. However I have been running into a problem with my Litime Mini 12V 100ah battery(the exact type of battery you used for demonstration on this video). There is an E02 error flash that comes up on the HQST charge controller everytime my battery has fully charged to 100% and it wouldnt stop until I disconnect my solar panel. More like my battery BMS switches off my battery once the battery is full and that signals an over voltage error to the controller. I thought this happens only to cheap PWM controller. Do you have any workaround with this? The error light would start to flash once the battery is full, volts would jump upwards on the controller and charging would stop. The controller would basically reset itself and try to start charging again. And then few seconds later, E02 error comes up again. This happens only when the battery is full. While this is not suppose to be a serious issue(I could simply hust disconnect my panel when the battery is full) but If I am not around and I leave my battery to charge, and it gets full before I come back, the controller is supposed to stop receiving charge from my PV not flash error code and reset itself and then try to continue charging an already full battery again. I searched online and saw that many people have thesame issue with the controller. Do you have any workaround to this please?

[@2hotscottpro]

Wow I missed this info when ordering.What’s the company say about it ?

[@EasyyokeFilms]

@@2hotscottpro Go the advanced settings, change your float voltage to 13.6 and change your Boost voltage to not more than 13.9v. Once you set your boost voltage above 13.9, the error happens. If you set your boost voltage below 13.9, you wont have the issue again. However that means you wont be able to fully harness the power of your solar panels. Lifepo4 battery ideally use 14.6v as boost voltage

[@2hotscottpro]

Ok I watched it today.Bat full charged and error Eo1 showed up over discharged bat ? But there was still watts going in to bat though? Weird.

[@adarondax]

Can you clear something up about Master/Slave assignment? Is it possible to make the 60A a master and the 20A a slave and get that arrangement to stick? Asking for myself and a friend. Obvious workaround is to just get two 60A's. The reason is that we want the low-temp charging cutoff to be active on both controllers.

[@HOBOTECH]

As I said in the review it is random.

[@tslucam]

Great video. I ordered the 60A. Question...I have some left over 455 watt panels from another project. The VOC on the panels is 49.35. What would be the suggested layout to get the most out of the controller? I was thinking 2 parallel strings of 3 panels with a 48v battery bank. Am I headed own the right path?

[@powerranger9160]

The 60A controller will accept 150Vdc max input, so 3 @ 49.3Voc panels in series will work. Yes, you would put a second series string of three additional panels in parallel with the your first set of three. Good luck in your project.

[@davidgunther8428]

49.3V ×3 = 149V. Very close to the max. If you have a cold day and fully charged batteries the Voc could go above 150V. I'd put only 2 panels in series with those voltages.

[@tslucam]

@@davidgunther8428 Thank you for that info. I live in Phoenix Arizona. We do get a handful of days a year were the temps drop into the 30's but typically our average overnight temps stay in the 40's. Would you still have that concern in those conditions?

[@davidgunther8428]

@@tslucam if there's no current draw on the panels because the battery is fully charged, the panels will be at Voc. Voc increases with lower temperature. I think at sunrise the panel temperature could be low, and Voc could be a few volts above the 49.3 rating. Say it goes to 52V each, would 156V total kill the charge controller? I'm not sure. I'd say it's borderline, but wouldn't recommend it.

[@tslucam]

@@davidgunther8428 Thank you very much. The advice is much appreciated.

[@Steve-ph4ec]

All three models limit their load current to 20 amps. There may be situations where you are powering more than 250 watts (fan, lights, heating water for coffee, etc) but you wouldn’t be able to? Some other controllers allow up to 40 amps for example.

[@BobBob-il2ku]

Do you mean on there dc load terminal on charge controller?

[@Steve-ph4ec]

@@BobBob-il2ku yes the output load terminal on all models can only output 20 A max

[@HOBOTECH]

You can just power loads off your battery.

[@Steve-ph4ec]

If power load in parallel with battery, the load voltage would be higher than 12V when charging (14.x), correct? Is that also true when load is connected to Load terminal ?

[@HOBOTECH]

@@Steve-ph4ec Load simply passes battery voltage through a relay. I never heard of a 12v appliance that can't handle 14.4v when charging.

[@DroneManMurphy]

How do we change the temperature from Celsius to Fahrenheit?

[@maverickmikekauai3515]

Aloha, is it possible to set user defined specifications for non standard batteries? (like repurposed Nissan Leaf EV batteries) Thanks for the great job I really enjoy your videos.

[@HOBOTECH]

Yep

[@d.l.sstudio8922]

Have you been using the “LI” mode for lifepo4 batteries? Or are you using a custom setting for them? The “LI” setting will keep your battery at full voltage until the solar panels power output decreases from lack of sun. I thought keeping your batteries at “charging voltage” increased degradation of cells? Or is this a myth? Just trying to find the best charging setting for my Lifepo4 batteries. I’ve been using the “Victron” settings that are posted on will prowes forum. 28.4v boost, 27.2v float Would you use the this custom setting or the standard “LI” setting on the HQST controller?

[@MarkSDCA]

Thanks for all the great videos. Very helpful. Can I charge my 300Ah battery bank with two seperate MPPT charge controllers, one mounted on top of the trailer and the other is a portable panel used when the trailer is in the shade and I need to remote the panel. What do you think?

[@davidhovis2299]

Just stumbled on this after dragging my feet on not wanting to spend victron money but needing 100+ amps of charging with room to expand. I see these can be paralleled, but curious if three can be used together?

[@HOBOTECH]

Yes

[@WanderingSwallows70]

What do you do with all the old MPPT controllers that you don’t need?

[@HOBOTECH]

They get used for other projects or donated to friends.

[@WanderingSwallows70]

I am looking to learn more with the hands on approach, if you ever want to get rid of any HQST MPPT’s or any other HQST products, please keep us in mind. I am getting ready to start building a system for our teardrop camper and would welcome any help.

[@WanderingSwallows70]

Have you ever tested HQST’s battery?

[@marsrover001]

Other than the settings sharing I don't particularly see a use for "parallel" options. You could always hook 2 mppt's to the same battery with no issues without the parallel cable. Settings only take 10 minutes to program and you never touch them again. I just really don't understand why that's a feature.

[@hqstsolar]

Two commonly used controllers can be connected to charge a single battery bank system simultaneously. However, our MPPT controllers offer several advantages with their parallel charging function: 1. Information exchange and charging settings synchronization between the two controllers are possible. 2. Inconsistencies in setting parameters between the two controllers are avoided. When you adjust the settings of the primary controller through the app, all changes will be automatically synchronized to the secondary controller, reducing the need for manual adjustments. 3. Enhanced charging efficiency is ensured. Controllers with different specifications may have varying charging accuracies. When two controllers with significant differences in power and precision are used in parallel to charge a single battery bank system, there is a risk of one controller misinterpreting the charging parameter information, which can impact charging efficiency. 4. Improved safety during charging. If the primary controller detects any abnormalities in the system, it can shut off charging on its own and simultaneously instruct the secondary controller to do the same. This protective measure enhances the overall safety of the battery system. Hope it helps clear up your confusion.

[@johnsemrau6412]

So would I be safe running a 1000 watts solar with some shade on 400 watts?

[@DannyWelsch1]

The HQST web site now says this about these controllers: "Regarding the low-temperature protection feature for Li-ion batteries, it is ONLY available in the 60 Amp version. The 20 Amp and 40 Amp versions do NOT include this feature." Is this new? Can anyone with the 20 or 40A versions confirm if the low temp cutoff is available?

[@HOBOTECH]

I released a Short a week after this review proving the 20 and 40 has it.

[@gregyohngy]

I can use the 48V version with any solar panels to power my Ebike! I missed it, but can you limit the Amps being delivered?

[@rickreid5896]

No and it overheats when it gets even close to the 60a mark

[@hithere7382]

Do these have firmware upgrades available to fix things like that master and slave problem?

[@2hotscottpro]

What’s yours doing? My slave gets hot.Other than that I don’t see what it does? Still needs 2 apps to view individually.You’d thing they would be combined on 1 app page.

[@2hotscottpro]

I have to switch Bluetooth from 1 to the other to see what’s going on with my 2 strings .

[@2hotscottpro]

LiTime says cable only used in development.We don’t need one.Sending mine back.Get my 21 bucks back.😊

[@lakorai2]

Would be all over this if it supported dc to dc charging as well

[@ccox7072]

This may be a dumb question, but can I over panel these controllers like I can on my Bluetti EB240?

[@mrdemascal]

If you have various watts/amps strings of panels running to the controller will ot make the efficiency of the bigger system less or just add the watts from each system together ? I have 2 400w strings paralleled into our current 60A unit. Want to add 400 to 600 more watts with a 40 amp controller. From your experience will having 600watts on one controller and 800 on the other decrease the input from the 800 unit? Hope that wording makes sense?

[@kevinmills5293]

Hi, I’m looking at this as an alternative to the Victron SCC and I’ve studied the user manual but I can’t find anything about the absorb time. Is it user configurable and if not, how is the absorb time determined?

[@DC_tronicFPV]

Just went through the settings on my 40amp and does not have on/off for low temp. Any advice?

[@VanlifeWithus-lr2et]

Can these units be connected by Bluetooth to an external android screen/tablet without Internet?

[@kimmer6]

I have several Renogy MPPT controllers (20,30, 40, 60 and the 100amp versions) and they have been very reliable for me. I just tested out my old Vandura van's new power system, Rover Elite 40 amp MPPT, 400 watts in panels, Renogy 2000 watt inverter, 300AH Chins battery, BT-2 blue tooth. Went camping overnight at Bodega Bay but were not attacked by Hitchcock birds.... Works great. I watched the Renogy battery SOC meter hit 100% on the way home and saw the solar charge volts drop to zero. However, the Elite does not have the load terminals like the Rover. I'm disappointed. I would like to turn on 12 volt lighting with my cell phone app like the 30 amp Rover has. Is the light bulb over the terminals on the HQST signifying a blue tooth relay? The Rover can operate a 20 amp load. I might pick up the 40 amp HQST but would like to know if those are load terminals. I like the included blue tooth function, too, without having to buy another module.

[@junkerzn7312]

Load terminals are a bit of a mixed bag. They are usually controlled by a solid-state relay (a FET in the charge controller), often with serious limitations and a ton of fragility. I don't know how good the HQST's load output is but I can say for sure that Victron's solid state relays are pretty horrible. I've burned more than one out on their smaller charge controllers (Victron doesn't even have load terminals on their larger charger controllers any more). Even Victron's battery protect devices are fairly poor at dealing with inductive loads and devices with input capacitors. I wonder how good HQST's load output is.

[@communityspringwater9353]

Hobo, haven’t been able to find the company affiliation you mentioned. Anymore hints / guidance? Thanks

[@kuhrd]

HQST is a registered company owned by Renogy

[@retrozmachine1189]

Made by Helios, model M4860N. Keeping in line with Renogy brand, everything in the catalogue is actually made by someone else. You too can have your own custom branding on the box, just buy the right quantity break.

[@BobBob-il2ku]

@@retrozmachine1189can I order a single unit direct from Helios?

[@stanleytolle416]

Hears a bug for your low tempature charging. Different Li batteries have different low tem cutoffs. Some Li batteries can be charged quit a bit below freezing making them better for cold climates. Of course others can't. So where is the temperature setting for cold cutoff.

[@BobBob-il2ku]

I think it’s set at zero degrees Celsius but I’m speculating

[@HOBOTECH]

It's hard set to 32F. If you don't need it for a heated battery turn it off.