Why These Oils Are Best for Tool Handles

How to use drying oils to finish and maintain your tool handles. Also, a little about drying oils and the difference between toxic boiled linseed oil and raw linseed oil.
Amazon link to raw linseed oil amzn.to/1q12f6Z You can shop around, but I like using the food grade stuff. The Sunnyside oil smells like solvents, not sure what's up with that. This is actually cheaper or close to the same price.
WALNUT OIL, sometimes cheaper than raw flax oil: amzn.to/2FluF5J
As usual with me, this is the long version. I'm more here to help people understand materials and the world we live in than just to show steps on how to do things. Drying oils are awesome for finishing wooden tool handles. They make a tough, grippy, durable, beautiful surface finish that will never flake off. Discussed are types of oils and why drying oils work for this purpose and how I actually go about applying oil and maintaining the finish. Just my personal experience and understanding, glad to hear anyone else's in the comments.
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Standard gear I recommend. I either use or have used all of it.
Council Tool Boys Axe: amzn.to/3z0muqI
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King two sided sharpening stone: amzn.to/32EX1XC
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ARS 10 foot long reach pruner: amzn.to/3esETmM
Victorinox grafting/floral knife: amzn.to/3Jki1E9
Wiebe 12” fleshing tool: amzn.to/3sB0qSl
Atlas Elbow Gloves: amzn.to/3FwB5g6
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[@petersydow4002]

Thank You for good info on harmful effects of the boiled linseed oil. Most of the woodwokers use it without thought

[@tp5401]

lol. I like this dude! Seriously good info with just enough dry humor.

[@chuckthebull]

I just was saying this to myself, one year latter , hes still getting out a true message worth ranting! cheers!

[@kylehenze8370]

Why am I just now discovering this channel?? This guy is my hero!

[@kee7678]

Same!

[@heavymechanic2]

When I was a small boy, Linseed was diluted with Mineral Spirits and sprayed on wood shingles to the point of runoff, looked amazing for years.. A few months ago, I applied chainsaw bar oil to a cheap shovel and placed in the sun, reapplied 2-3 coats daily as much as would soak in. I'm rubbing some off with my cloth gloves and the handle color is amazing after a few months. I did this because its basically cooking/mineral oils to preserve the wood because these shovels often are left in the weather (as a former soapmaker, I learned Canola is related to Linseed, often used as bar oil).. You have great info on maintaining wood handles.

[@T3hJones]

Haha I like the hemp rant!

[@margiedavis9307]

T3hJonesutv

[@jeffcmo1957]

Only watched this for the Hemp Rant. Keep up the good work.

[@BradGad]

Your videos really fill a niche that I don’t think anyone else does. And, I truly appreciate how much thought and how much plain smarts you bring to each topic. So... kudos! And... thanks!

[@SkillCult]

Thanks. I appreciate that. Tell that to the algorithm though. I don't seem to be able to bet much real traction on here.

[@davidlatham312]

Thanks for being real about all things. whether it be hemp or the quality of a steel striking tool ! Just now subscribed and look forward to watching your other video's. This is coming from someone who has lived the country working life for 53 years, it's refreshing to run into someone who has been there/done that and is level headed. Much success and Good luck my friend !!

[@SkillCult]

Thanks for the good words!

[@timmain8177]

Informative as always, I always wondered why boiled linseed made my hands itch

[@hermit6208]

Man, that's scary.

[@alexr4493]

I saw this video a few months back, and it inspired me to learn more about flaxseed oil and linseed oil. As it happens, flaxseed and linseed oil aren't exactly the same thing; by most definitions, flaxseed oil "becomes" linseed oil once it's been refined in some manner. There are a lot of processes for refinement, but a very basic one involves combining flaxseed oil with water in a container and shaking the mixture vigorously (a process known as "washing"). A painter by the name of Tad Spurgeon has done some great research on the subject, and there are a several good videos here on KZbin outlining different washing methods. Anyway, I just though I'd pass this info along in case you weren't already aware. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

[@SkillCult]

It is often heated briefly too I think. for most of my uses, it doesn't seem to matter much and I use mostly raw flax oil. I'm sure it matters in the arts and for varnishes and such though. I've made stand oil, but haven't reasearched all the linseed oil processing stuff too much. that's for commenting.

[@jhtsurvival]

Nice handle.. love how you get into the actual science of stuff

[@jacobbrizammito7187]

Very comprehensive. Love the chemistry angle. Never knew about those added impurities in boiled linseed.

[@bobburnitt5761]

This is a GREAT VIDEO!!! I have a lot of Wooden handled tools. I always buy WOOD HANDLES. Always. It might all be in my head, but I swear I can detect the difference from the Wooden handles from Fiberglass or steel. There is something about it being ORGANIC. Our Muscles Bones and the rest of our bodies are Organic too. So seems I do NOT fatigue as quick with my organic tools. Especially with HAMMERS or anything that is exposed to the "shock" of Hammering. The heavier the hammer the more this seems to be. I especially ENJOYED the "rant" on HEMP. I agree totally, we have so many MAGPIES that will repeat and repeat crap they heard once it sounds "trendy". Hemp makes good cord and rope, or the rough fabrics like you mentioned. But Hemp is not the "Cure All end All" they hold it out to be. The IDEA that hemp can improve your life and the taste of Beer is NEW and people seem to LIKE sitting around and talking the latest Bullshit. Hemp has its uses, but man, the things they say it will cure is ridiculous. Great Video!!

[@bennelson3724]

I LOVE your hemp rant and agree 100%. It’s not as strong as a fabric and degrades SO MUCH faster from sunlight that linen or even nylon polymers and the oil is way too expensive

[@SkillCult]

I don't think it should be expensive. In common production, it should probably be cheaper than linseed oil. the fiber as well. It's good fiber, hemp just isn't better than everything else, always.

[@edfoster792]

You can get small bottles of Linseed oil to experiment with at art supply stores. Oil paints are commonly made with Linseed. You also use it to seal wooden hand pallets.

[@keithkrone77]

Raw linseed oil. One coat for a day for a week, one coat for a week for a month, one coat for a month for a year. But you also explained it beautifully.😊

[@kylenoe4044]

Thanks for this, been looking for a good path to finish my opinel knife.

[@botsbass842]

You used the term "riff off of" Bonus point! Very happy to have found your channel, especially since you lit a fire under my ass with your biochar vids. Many wishes for future success and videos.

[@SkillCult]

Thank you!

[@Badpenny13]

Good helpful advice that makes sense and also in tune with the natural world. Good one fella.

[@matthiasofgondor]

Thanks for the great video! Love the explanations as to the WHY and the HOW and the SCIENCE behind the drying oils. I'm very much of the more I know the better I truly understand the concept of whatever I'm doing, and the better my success. Great content!

[@SkillCult]

+Matthew Fraser Thanks Matthew! One of the things I hope to do with this channel and on my site over time is put down stuff about various natural materials and their properties and working qualities. That's the kind of stuff that more people used to have to know in order to be able to pull off making things from "nothing".

[@mawuho1566]

Perfect video right now, I'm watching it while oiling up my axes ; ) here in germany you can buy boiled linseed oil with no additives, I'm using it right now and it dries in about half an hour. I also like linseed mixed with hardening waxes. Thumbs up for more swearing on KZbin. All the best from Germany, Maximilian.

[@SkillCult]

Ha. I have a hard time not swearing if I'm going to really get in a flow and express myself. That's just how I grew up. In the states here we are very reckless with chemicals and labeling.

[@TheRunereaper]

This is the most accurate and informative video that I've seen on the subject. I know very little about oiling tool handles, so I've watched as many YT vids as I can. There are lots... and many of them are just plain wrong. I live in the UK where the climate destroys tools in the shed. I've been re-handling lots of old tools and want to use the right oil. My inclination is to go with Tung oil because it penetrates deeper, dries faster and smells better than raw linseed oil! Cost is not very important compared against the price of rehandling. Thanks again for producing a well-informed and soundly thought through video. Paul

[@SkillCult]

I just like a thin slow drying oil because it soaks in further before the surface seal over. BLO cures so fast that it's hard to keep getting multiple deep penetrating coats. Dudley Cook author of The Axe Book says the same as I do, use raw oil and keep saturating it till it won't take any more. I got some tung oil when I did this video, but haven't messed with it yet. Just be sure to get the pure stuff or you're going to get something with solvents. My outdoor tools get torn up just because of horizontal rain and stuff. It's really hard to keep up. I need to build a shed. You may end up with mold problems on the oiled handles in your climate. I'm just now working on a video about thickened linseed oil and stuff like that. Oils are interesting. People used to know the properties and categories of oils, but now petrol products have replaced a lot of the natural oils people used for all sorts of stuff.

[@TheRunereaper]

A man without a shed is like a dog without a tail. It can be done but it's like you lost a part of yourself! I take all your points about linseed oil as true and valid, not least the issues of price and availability. I went through all our tools a month or so back and have had to renew the handles on 3 axes, a sledgehammer, a maul, 4 hammers, a garden rake, 2 shovels and a hoe. They were mostly suffering from cracking and shrinkage due entirely to my shameful neglect. Rust has taken a toll on the neglected steel too. In the past I have used raw linseed oil on them but not nearly enough, obviously. I did slather some on most years but my real failing was in not getting lots on when the handles were new. Having now had to face up to the real and not inconsiderable cost of tool neglect, all in one hit, I thought I'd make sure to get the treatment right first time. If you need an American analogy for our climate it seems to be something like your Pacific northwest but not so cold in the winter.. just wet and grey and miserable :-) I've been amazed at how, on this particular subject, so much bullshit is expounded by people who don't actually know and simply repeat other people's pontifications, quite often with great aplomb. Your video is refreshingly honest and humble.... and accurate too! I've been persuaded by both yourself through your reasoning and a Canadian video (address below) specially made on Tung oil, that Tung oil is probably better and worth a serious try. I can get the pure stuff for £14 a litre which translates to about $18 a quart. (I won't buy a gallon because the oil oxidises in the can). This is about 3 times the price of raw linseed oil. www.canadianwoodworking.com/get-more/tung-oil-debunking-myths I wrote a much shorter reply last night but our 22 year old cat decided to walk across the keyboard and demolished my carefully crafted response, so I'm afraid yo get the full Monty today! Now that I'm a subscriber I'll have to follow up on what you're all about! One last thankyou for the best video on a subject riddled with falsehoods and mistakes. Paul

[@SkillCult]

Thanks mate. It took me a lot of trial and error and long observation to see what really should be obvious, but really isn't. That's how most things work though. Put your tung oil up in small jars filled to the top and they should keep indefinitely. I've noticed recently what I've suspected all along. Once you really seal the surface off with a good coat of dried oil, you can't penetrate it again. I've been soaking some hammer heads in oil that got loose in our very hot dry summer this year and since they've already been soaked, they won't tighten at all. I want to see everything saturated to probably 1/6 inch or more the first time around or when restoring old handles. After that, a coat can be built up on the surface if wanted or over time. Now I'm messing with thickened linseed and oil paint. I should have something out on that in the next week or two. I'm a few months behind, but most of my stuff including all my old articles from other blogs are on www.skillcult.com in easy to navigate visual menus.

[@richstone2627]

Good stuff and love the hemp rant. You're correct, linen made from the flax plant was King until the cotton Kings had it banished.

[@j.p.4541]

Love your review brother. Appreciate your experience with the different oils and your thoughts on hemp, lol

[@Vot63]

That ax handle is a thing of beauty. Regarding the "boiled" linseed oil being full of solvents and lead, look out for Teak Oil too; Teak Oil is another "oil" that is actually an oil based solvent and not a natural oil...found that out the unpleasant way also. Thanks for the video.

[@mawilkinson1957]

I just watched this again, after many months, and I still have never understood why he crossed out walnut oil, and never covered why. I like it.

[@SkillCult]

It was left over from a previous take that I didn't use and I just forgot to talk about it. It's fine and sometimes cheaper than raw linseed on amazon.

[@zacharyriley4122]

By the way. I use tung oil and it is my new favorite for the last ten years or so. I don’t use anything but pure raw tung oil. None of that stuff in the hardware store called formsbys or something. Garbage chemical drying agent bullshit. The brand i have settled on and use exclusively now is called “The Real Milk Paint Co.” and is called “Pure Tung Oil”. I have a feeling you would loves this stuff. I’ve found I have to store it in the fridge (and open and close the container as quickly AP) to keep it from setting in the container. It will literally try to start polymerizing in the container with the minuscule amount of oxygen that gets in when you use it and whatever molecules of O2 make it past the seal on the lid somehow. It’s crazy. Even in the fridge it will eventually try to start setting. But it will take forever in the fridge. The stuff gives you a feeling like nothing else. It gives the absolute most gorgeous and penetrated finish. You wanna slowly heat it up just ever so barely to the smoke point, as soon as you detect smoke immediately cool it back down, and then while it’s still warm you wanna dilute it down to 4 parts tung oil and 6 parts natural turpentine that is at room temp. Then use whatever you are gonna use and then finish cooling it all the way down and then also store whatever you don’t immediately use in a very cool place. (Or a fridge with your raw tung oil. Warm up any small amount you use before you apply it. Raw flax oil works just as good using the same method but reverse the 60/40 to 60% oil and 4 parts turpentine. Learning to use tung oil is as rewarding as it comes. I’m not a particularly spiritual man-but if I was, shaping/hanging tool handles and oiling/maintaining them would be as close to a religious experience as I get.

[@zacharyriley4122]

I recently rehung an axe and it was like sawing through glass reinforced polypropylene with some sort of ceramic nanotech bullshit in there. I mean it was something nasa need to study. It was at least a solid ¼ inch into the gorgeous old hickory handle (it had been torn to shreds on the shoulder halfway through the handle by abusive idiotic splitting of course). Of course on the end grain it was more like ¾ inches. I couldn’t believe how deep it had and how solidly it was polymerized. Solid. Where they chewed the handle away, the outer “shell” was kinda hollowed out where the hard hickory wood was much softer inside and was wearing away from the inside out faster. Opposite of normal wear. Crazy. Made me surprised they were ever able to get through the first ¼” to start with. Last time I put that much time into a hang for a family member who won’t listen regarding how to split wood and use the flop/flip/flick/[slash whatever folks are calling it nowadays] properly. At least that’s the official plan ima try and stick to anyway.

[@zacharyriley4122]

I wound up cutting into that handle 2 more times using it on other projects including cutting into the very end a few times until i hit the raw almost white hickory wood underneath. It was stupid on the end grain. Soooo deep.

[@StanislavG.]

The best explanations on KZbin!

[@SkillCult]

thank you, I try!

[@ColossalSwordFormAndTechnique]

I just use choji oil, it works on cleaning blades and making my wooden ash shafts shine.

[@petersydow4002]

What's choking oil? Thanks if You answer.

[@ColossalSwordFormAndTechnique]

Choji oil is japanese sword coating oul. Can also be used on wooden handles for knives, machetes, axes, billhooks, and sword handles.

[@Specialized61]

Great video! Dude, you’re one smart guy! Great info. I just coated my shovel with linseed oil

[@philipwimberly6330]

Really helpful I Just learned 3 new mistakes I was making. Wish I'd watched this 8 years ago

[@SkillCult]

You might want to check my content published after this on oiling tool handles. I clarify some ideas and more focused on penetration and saturation over coating.

[@uralbob1]

Best vid yet! Thanks a ton. I've got a half dozen handles to repair.

[@SkillCult]

Thanks, my thoughts have evolved a little on the subject. I'm even more into saturation and penetration and much less concerned about finish. Short version, lots of oil to fill the wood to some depth, then you don't need any finish. Cheers.

[@Max-kw4px]

Great overview and some expert advice, well researched. Awesome work as usual.

[@chumpboy]

Really great video. I really appreciate that safety is such a prominent theme amongst all your videos. I loved the bonus hemp rant at the end. Too bad the battery died.

[@richkeagy8907]

I took a new 'well-known' maker axe handle and did the following. #180 sandpaper to remove tooling marks, #220 and #320 to make the hickory really smooth. Then I burnished the wood for awhile. I'm always astonished at what simple burnishing does to wood. It's almost effortless. Now, on Steven's recommendation I bought some food-grade 100% pure linseed oil (KTC brand, Amazon) and applied it to the burnished wood thinking it would take a week to dry. I was wrong. The first coat is usually the fastest to dry. This non-boiled linseed oil appeared dry in less than 30 minutes. (It's dry and hot here in Southern California as I write this). That is about what the BLO took on a different axe handle. I will let it set for a few more days before I try to add a second coat. I just don't understand how that old adage about 'coat the handle once a day for a week, once a week for a month and once a month for a year'. Has that worked for anyone? Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but that seems like a lot of oil to me.

[@SkillCult]

I have a more updated video on oiling tool handles you can look up. I think it's called something like penetration, saturation and coating. I'll usually leave them pretty rough, but take out most of the tool marks. If you use an axe a lot it smooths out pretty good.

[@AmanitaDreamer]

I’m thinking of stripping my drum sticks and using linseed after seeing this. They need to be grippy without gumming up or adding weight. I have yet to find a manufactured stick that meets my demands. I know, it’s not bushcraft but a stick makes all the difference in ability and I’m sick of this issue with sticks. Until now hadn’t thought about oiling them so thank you 🙏

[@SkillCult]

I have a newer vid emphasizing saturation and penetration over coating. Im pretty into that now and rarely build up layers except when I happen to have an oily rag to use up. I don't know what it will do for or against impact resistance though, obviously a concern for drumsticks.

[@AmanitaDreamer]

SkillCult Oh cool, I’ll go watch that one! Thanks.

[@terrythompson3890]

thank you.keep spreading the knowledge .

[@genecarrie1359]

Just started watching some of your axe... Sharpening. ..handling...care of videos! I am very impressed and like how you relay the information and done in a way that (at least I can tell) lets us know you actually do this stuff! It isn't all he same stuff a lot of other people do to were it all seems fake and the same info keeps getting spit around. Thank you and well done! Now I have to watch your biochar and apple videos! Also will subscribe!!

[@SkillCult]

Thanks Gene. I try to know what I'm talking about or own the information I put out in some way that it's not just what I vacuumed up elsewhere. Welcome to the channel :)

[@jsmith5167]

This is sound, practical info, well done. Did you know that if you bury wood in a claybank for about 3 yrs it will petrify the wood? Put that on your bucket list. I read about a guy who cuts custom sharpening stones out of wood, then petrifies them this way.

[@SkillCult]

Thanks. Nope, never heard that one before. It must matter what type of clay and other minerals are in the water.

[@hillbillynick2000]

Thanks for the info! I knew some of it already but always adding to that knowledge base! BTW, I read the warnings! LOL! Too true on the hemp stuff also. I had a hemp shirt once upon a time, wore like iron and broke in nicely but it was canvas like. It would never be as nice as linen, it's impossible to get as fine of fibers from hemp as you can from flax. Enjoy your work, carry on!

[@SkillCult]

I've seen some nice hemp cloth and fiber, but typically they are more rough. I'm not sure how much of that is limitations of hemp v.s. just lower effort on the part of manufacturers. I think that the whiteness of linen had partially to do with it 's popularity. Hemp is great, I just get tired of the bullshit propaganda.

[@SkillCult]

and good for you for reading he warnings :)

[@hillbillynick2000]

SkillCult hell, I read 'em before I buy anything! LOL! Agreed on the hemp, I think it would produce finer fibers but the makers stop short. Perhaps we will see in the future. Carry on, dig your work!

[@erikolsen6269]

Thanks for making informative videos man

[@calvinboondoggle2564]

Wow, it looks well protected AND beautifully antiqued at the same time. LOVE it...thanks so much, man! :D

[@SkillCult]

On a lot of handles now, I'll try to saturate the outer rind of the wood and then don't worry about anything on the outside of the handle. I have another video talking about that. kzbin.info/www/bejne/q5a5mpKEhMeWn5I

[@SkillCult]

But, barring filling the wood, built up layers work pretty well and the do look good :)

[@tonyburgin8846]

thanks. I never knew about the lead.

[@christiancaveman5294]

Straight forward..good stuff..i agree on your outcome..ive done bout everything in the past n ya the lead in boiled lineseed not good..The rant on Hemp is great..the truth..love it..rock on in the sticks brother..out..

[@vaguincolombia]

it is amazing after reading tons of msds about teak oil finish, danish oil finish, tung oil finish, all of them are just and pure either mineral/white spiritis and/or kerosene, there is nothing natural in those things, better buy raw linseed oil 3/4, 1/4 of turpentine and the perfect ingredient for this mix for UV protection and mildew is zinc oxide, zinc oxide is safe to handle, just dont play with the dust of that powder just put around 20% and there you go.........

[@valueforvalue76]

I do a little oil painting, and have used stand oil, for painting I just prefer walnut oil. But I've never thought to use stand oil on handles. And yep the Cobalt driers are used in what is called boiled linseed oil these days.

[@SkillCult]

what qualities do you like that walnut oil has? It's kind of surprising since it has a much lower iodine number than linseed. I don't think stand oil is the best for handles. Since this video, my handle oiling thing has evolved slightly. I like raw oil and I use a lot more and longer until the outer rind is pretty well saturated. I could care less about surface finish now. Stand oil won't penetrate well unless it's thinned with solvent.

[@valueforvalue76]

@@SkillCult For painting I like walnut oil simply because it doesn't yellow over time. Refined linseed oil has came a long way but still has a tendency to yellow. I have noticed that raw linseed oil at least the stuff from Sunnyside has a very strong smell. I'm not sure if that is the raw oil itself or the way they extract it. If you buy food grade flaxseed oil it has only the typical linseed oil smell. I'm wondering if the raw oil is extracted with solvents?

[@SkillCult]

@@valueforvalue76 I noticed the same. I stopped buying the sunnyside because of that. The breakdown products from polymerization are pretty acrid, but it smells more like solvent. I use raw flax oil now.

[@irondoger]

Excellent video, I really enjoyed your presentation. No bullshit or theatrics 🙏thank you. New sub.

[@anthonyclark9159]

I used to use hemp lifting straps, for deadlifts and heavy rows, they wear just like canvas. No better or worse, but double the price.

[@SkillCult]

Hemp has good qualities and different qualities than cotton for instance, and maybe even some relative to linen. What I object to is claiming it is the best fiber for everything, or better than everything.

[@bushleague3472]

Lol, love your hemp rants, in retrospect you were a visionary lol. I thought it was hillarious how once hemp was legalised, it was somehow promoted as some magical new industry by the same people that hate pipelines. Those unfortunate enough to live near the industrial grow ops came to understand they are the rough equivilent of a small pulp mill. Uses less power, but we just harvest that stuff right off the organic volt tree's anyways... right?

[@doctorbea]

Super insightful, brother! Thanks for the share!

[@Smiling_mike]

I like the rant, & would love to hear the whole thing.

[@SkillCult]

maybe someday....

[@benbush7838]

bring the rant!!!!!

[@ballskin]

The hemp "rant" was on point. I continually hear the same general contention regarding cannabis and CBD products, as if it's some type of cure-all wonder drug.

[@SkillCult]

You get that with lots of things, diets, biochar, no til, mulch, etc etc. People like the panacea thing. But hemp/cannabis is especially bad.

[@MrPeter0201]

Looking forward to more and thank you!

[@brettona123]

I appreciate the hemp rant. I also appreciate your intelligence.

[@JoeBlow-24]

One bit of info, flax (boiled linseed) hasn't contained lead sense the 70s. Raw linseed is quite possible the slowest drying oil, even slower than tung. Wear gloves and save a whole lot of time. Boiled offers the best dry time and less coats than tung. Great video's btw, I've been watching you for 2 days now.

[@SkillCult]

I usually do more soaking in of coats now than trying to get any kind of surface coating. In that case, the slow drying can be an advantage sometimes. I still haven't used tung oil much.

[@gumboot65]

That's a nice Hart framing hammer. With a California Framing hammer handle no less 👍👍 could use a good waffle job tho😁. Great video ! Thanks ! Liked, subscribed And clicked the bell 👍

[@SkillCult]

My brother is a carpenter. He gave me that head.

[@jeffreydustin5303]

what if you beeswax the handle for water repellant and the axe head itself and keep a little beeswax crayon with you to wax the bit and cheeks...just to let you grind the bit thin and have it bite deeper into the wood and get stuck less?

[@rickpadgett1999]

Like a KISS approach. Oiled rage will catch fire!! How do I know; paper towels used to wipe down excess Minwax stain. Cleaned up shop all towels in trash can. Fire truck put out fire as metal shed was melting down.

[@keithkrone77]

Oiled Rage is the name of my punk rock band.

[@christopherhill1685]

What's your take on Danish oil for handles? I've used tung oil for my hammer handles for the past few years. But have a good amount of Danish oil I never use.

[@SkillCult]

I've never used it. I pretty much stay away from anything that is a compound and not just oil. It's probably fine if you want to use it up. I have some more updated vids on what I tend to do now with handles.

[@christopherhill1685]

SkillCult thanks for the info. I'll check out the other videos.

[@ihrescue]

Good presentation very helpful.

[@bradleyreynolds4720]

Interesting oops. Think I'll pick up a can. Can never be too careful on handle maintenance.

[@FunnyFlicksTV]

First video of yours I have watched and after watching I subscribed thought it was great video skillcult look forward to watching your others thanks for the help on oil!

[@shawnbixby1]

Hemp rant video please? Your rants are pretty good!

[@JohnT2001]

could you use a teak oil instead of linseed?

[@SkillCult]

Yes.

[@JohnT2001]

SkillCult Thanks for the reply man, i was unsure whether it would swell the wood and provide the same strength as linseed

[@SkillCult]

It should be similar, though i think it dries faster. I like to soak some handles deep, so it might cure fast and slow penetration or prevent it. Otherwise, it behaves similarly as far as I know it should be fine.

[@JohnT2001]

SkillCult thanks man, im subbed, youre one of the few youtubers who share knowledge

[@BeSatori]

Great information man. Thanks.

[@BeSatori]

I also love the patina linseed oil puts on the steel tool heads too.

[@SkillCult]

+BeSatori Thanks. I haven't used it too much for that unless I"m putting something away to keep it from rusting I have burned it on, usually with beeswax as a finish on metalwork hot out of the forge. That will stave off rust for quite a while.

[@BeSatori]

Yeah, I imagine that would season it like a cast iron.

[@anumba1]

great video lots of detailed information and research

[@SkillCult]

+anumba1 thanks!

[@mr-meerkat7237]

Linseed oil is really good, it’s used for cricket bats here in the UK!

[@jonathanrogers9961]

great video, thanks. 2 things. I went with Tru-Oil which uses mineral spirits as the trying agent instead of the heavy metals. Also you forgot to mention Mineral oil in the non drying oil section. I considered it since it is food safe and used on butchers blocks but it is a non drying oil.

[@SkillCult]

I think mineral oil and mineral spirits are different. One is a solvent and the other a non drying oil. I'm not familiar with true oil, but I think most oil preparations that are not pure oil contain some kind of solvent.

[@jonathanrogers9961]

@@SkillCult yes, i meant mineral oil, i will correct that. the Tru-oil is a gun stock oil. I ordered some to try, has not arrived yet. per the MSDS it is listed at a drying agent, mineral spirits i believe, a propritary oil, and boiled linseed oil.

[@SkillCult]

@@jonathanrogers9961 I don't think they have to disclose the ingredients of boiled linseed oil, but I think poison control has all that information for products sold in the U.S.

[@jonathanrogers9961]

@@SkillCult not true, if you go to the makers website, sunnyside for instance, at the bottom is a link to the PDF of the MSDS www.sunnysidecorp.com/pdfs/SDS_87232.pdf . section 3 "copmosition/information on ingredents lists linseed oil, and cobalt manganese salt. a little googling and you can figure out what most of the ingredients are for most things.

[@harrypehkonen]

Thank you for the boiled vs. non-boiled linseed oil opinion. I have been putting off boiling my food-grade flax oil. I'll try without boiling. I have wondered about thinning linseed oil with mineral spirits. This would be for the "first coat" in order to encourage deep penetration.

[@SkillCult]

I don't think it matters if you just boil it briefly to get rid of impurities. For handles, raw seems to work fine. I tend to concentrate on saturation more than I used to and hvae other vids talking about that now. I friend says he uses just cheap veg oil. I might try that. It's not as drying, but it still does dry and for soaking handles, probably fine.

[@lukecoppersammy]

Have you ever tried putting your smaller handles in a vacuum chamber to speed up the penetration? Like stabilizing wood, but using oil instead. It's interesting. Thanks for this video

[@SkillCult]

Too high tech for me. It's also not really necessary I don't think. A lot have suggested it.

[@christopherhill1685]

Great videos by the way. I was referred by essential craftsman as well. I now what your channel and E.C. almost religiously.

[@SkillCult]

E.C. is cool.

[@contramundum307]

How should I oil a tomahawk handle? I have throwing hawks that I want to oil. Should I oil the handles without the heads on so the whole handle gets oiled? Or leave the head on while oiling?

[@redcanoe14]

Well, I have used gallons of boiled Linseed Oil and, guess what, I do get heartburn regularly. That said, I have been using more Pine Tar cut with pure Turpentine recently. Pine Tar leaves a nice dry, grippy finish on handles. Some folks recommend one third of Pine Tar, Turpentine and Boiled Linseed. I have a plan to make some Birch Oil from heating up a bunch of Birch Bark. I have heard that this is very good treatment for tool handles. I was always told Raw Linseed Oil was not the right stuff for tool handles and created a sticky mess. What I am thinking since I have watched this video is I will try Raw Linseed Oil thinned with Turpentine (which appears to speed up drying and I think aids penetration). I regularly buy neglected old yard tools, spades, shovels, hoes, brush axes and they often have dried out and badly cracked handles. It amazes me how liberal application of Linseed Oil refreshes and tightens up the cracks.

[@SkillCult]

I like the raw stuff because it cures slowly so you have time to saturate the handle deeply, sometimes 1/8 inch or more even on new wood, but it depends on the wood. The boiled stuff cures really fast sometimes and then the oil doesn't want to penetrate anymore. The raw stuff takes time to dry, but it is faster if you keep it warm or in the sun and put on very thin layers. I'm thinking about ways to do it all more conveniently. Drying time is rarely a serious issue for me unless I put the stuff on too thick, but a solvent of any kind will speed drying just for the reason alone that it cuts the oil, so as soon as the solvent leaves the coat is thinner. I have some experiments planned with pitch and various mixes as well, but didn't get to them last summer. Anymore, I'm just going to buy food grad linseed. You can also thicken it in the sun for a couple of weeks to make it thicker and faster drying, or for mixing with pigments to make oil paints.

[@benbush7838]

Yep I was taught o put a little turpentine into linseed oil to aid penetration. Seems more vital to do that on older timber handles that have taken a bit of weathering. I also like to wire brush a bit to clean muck out of the grains.

[@stantheman5163]

I mixed up a beeswax recipe of 2 parts melted beeswax to 1 part flax oil and 1 part good turpentine spirits (smells like pine trees and not chemicals) to treat my wooden handled tools. Turned out too hard for my taste so I re-melted it and added another part of flax oil only. That resulted in a softer wax that applies well and dries overnight so that it is invisible to the touch. Re-apply. I have been doing that on a daily basis for a week or so with no end in sight. I plan to keep applying until it feels saturated. I like the feel of the wood thus far. I am treating a boy's ax, hatchet, two ball peen hammers, a claw hammer and an engineer's hammer. I treated a couple of pairs of shoes and plan to do a cotton work jacket as well. All doing fine so far. Smells great after a few days of letting the mixture sit out and de-gas.

[@SkillCult]

That sounds good. I've done mixes like that with pitch, beeswax and linseed, but soaking or cooking in the hot oil. Plan to play with it more. Obviously your solvent removes the need for heat. I have more experiments planned. Thanks for commenting.

[@stantheman5163]

I used a heat gun on the initial application to help open up the grain and promote deeper penetration. Subsequent treatments don't seem to require that as the wax just soaks in and dries in a day. I use a thin coat on the sides and really pack it on at the end grain. We'll see how the colder weather coming in affects the process. I'm in the Portland area. Glad to hear your place was spared by the fire. Still waiting to hear from my wife's relatives who were evacuated from their homestead. He recently told us about a used tractor he bought to mow the acres of high grass in his front "yard".

[@joshoconnor6684]

How about motor oil lol, 2 stroke? I finished a table with 2 stroke and its absolutely beautiful

[@SkillCult]

It is literally intended to never glaze or gum, the opposite of drying oils. I have an axe that belonged to a logger that is saturated with petrol oil, probably just bar oil from the back of his truck. I don't like it too much. I'd stick with drying oils, ever just soybean, corn or canola is okay.

[@davidgunther1282]

What happened to walnut oil? At 2:49 it was a contender and at 2:51 it was crossed out without ever talking about why we wouldn’t want to use it.

[@SkillCult]

I did multiple takes and forgot to mention it. It is usually expensive, but this brand is affordable and sometimes cheaper than raw flax oil. amzn.to/2FluF5J

[@hankczinaski915]

I like you. I guess I'm a dork as well. Great video.

[@SkillCult]

lol.

[@hermit6208]

You have a badass haircut for a self-described 'dork'. Thx for the info. Should I soak the head of a new axe in linseed oil to tighten the grip on the axe head?

[@SkillCult]

I wouldn't. I've used that quite a bit, as necessary, but i'll usually add a metal wedge first. many new axes are pretty loose and need some work right away. An old man told me to use antifreeze. I tried it on one axe and it worked well. If a new axe isn't loose, I'm not going to do anything. If it is very loose, i might take the head off, refit it and rewedge it trghter.

[@ldexterldesign]

I cleaned my axe in an OCD frenzy once including getting it wet and putting it in an oven. Head came loose. Manufacturer recommended soaking head in linseed oil which fixed it. Regards.

[@twocents6363]

Nice good information.

[@timcameron9023]

great info - thanks

[@stockholm1752]

Very informative. Thanks.

[@DozeyDragoN]

Hi! I MUST ask again: The Beauty in the First seconds ... Please Tell me how Long is the handle, wha this the approximative weight of the head? Looks like a splitter? I love smaller axe and hatchet-heads, and this one is really a beauty ... 🪓 Best Regards, Jan 🌳⛺️🌲

[@SkillCult]

the handle is 16 inches. pretty much all my hatchet handles are. I have weighed the head, but I've forgotten. it is a little lighter than the popular small gransfors hatchets. It's very light and has made in sweeden stamped on the underside near the eye in very small letters. I have seen this same head on ebay before, but there is not manufacturer or other marks. You have to go by that stamp and the small size. If you look for a year or more, you will probably find one on ebay. they don't usually sell for a lot, or at least they didn't use to. People want branded stuff, which I think is silly.

[@DozeyDragoN]

SkillCult Thank you, helps me a lot !!!

[@1südtiroltechnik]

16:45 I have a book about Hemp and it says that most Linen (Leinen in german) in mediaval and renisance times was actually hemp, not flax.

[@SkillCult]

But is it true, or just propaganda ;)

[@1südtiroltechnik]

@@SkillCult Its the German Edition of the Jack Herer Book "The Emperor wears no Clothes", you probably know it, it also has a study of an German Institute, which is very interesting, and added German Capitels. Propaganda i do not know. :)

[@valueforvalue76]

You can make your own boiled linseed oil from the raw stuff or food grade flaxseed oil. It's an out door activity for safety. But it'll shorten the curing time of that raw oil and its simple to do. James Wright has a couple videos on it along with how to make your own paste wax.

[@SkillCult]

I'm happy enough with my raw oil for handles at least. The product sold as boiled linseed oil is very different than just boiled oil too. Metals are used to speed curing in "boiled linseed oil" product known for a long time as japan driers. Another thing you can make to speed curing time is stand oil, which is just oil that is left in the open air or sun until it thickens to a syrup or honey consistency. Oil painters use that and various old recipes use combinations of those things.

[@Wildlogger65]

Nice no BS handle maintenance video. Great info and thanks for simply putting an end to the boiled vs. raw linseed debate. Who would want the health risk. Keep it natty.

[@SkillCult]

+Mitch Campbell There may be qualitative differences between the "boiled" and raw, but it certainly doesn't seem to be as you read all the time, like it's going to take months to dry and so on. It just seems to work. I've also been pushing the limits more with repeated coats and am able to get thick dry coats by simply adding another as soon as the previous is pretty dry. I would do this videio a little different now, but not much. Certainly faster :)

[@itzBUMP]

What is the small axe/hatchet that he uses as an example? The one he also tosses around at the beginning.

[@SkillCult]

See my reply to comment by DozeyDragoN It's an old swedish head of unknown manufacture.

[@itzBUMP]

@@SkillCult Thanks, the length looks like what I have been looking for a car camping axe.

[@SkillCult]

@@itzBUMP 16 inches. the original handle would be a lot shorter. 16 is my go to length whenever I make a hatchet handle.

[@trentonfree2694]

I heard somewhere that the old timers would oil a new handle everyday for a week, then oil it once a week for a month, then once a month for a year, then once a year after that..

[@SkillCult]

I think that might be from Dudley cooks book. I like to saturate them pretty good, then oil occasionally.

[@GFD472]

Great video....! Can you tell us more about the older texts and or source materials you are referencing? I love to know where to access practical old school knowledge...

[@SkillCult]

+GFD472 I like reading old technical manuals. There are some formula books, like Henley's, that have a lot of cool stuff, different recipes using drying oils and such. I've read paint books, formula books, books on oils and fats, fibers, glues economic plants. Probably the best way to learn historical technical info like that now is to use search engines for old books that have been scanned. I use Googlebooks a lot because it is very searchable and you can search by date. If you navigate to googlebooks, and click on search tools, you can select by century or select custom dates. Type in Linseed oil for instance and I'll be you'll get a gajillion hits. Or, I can research a rare apple and find the couple of rare references to it that exist in old books and periodicals. I use it all the time for research projects. It's amazing. I used to have to collect those obscure books whenever I could get them, like Casein and It's Industrial Applications, not many of those around! Now there is more and more of it digitized. Amazing, Check it out, you'll have a field day! I have research projects on my website on Biochar and Potato Onions using those that I could never have done otherwise. There is just no way I could ever have dug up all those references. Here is the one I did on biochar. Cool stuff: skillcult.com/blog/2012/05/18/some-citations-on-biochar-in-europe-and-america-in-the-19th-century

[@GFD472]

+SkillCult Thank you very much for the detailed answer. I had no idea there was so much older technical material available for research. There is almost no end to the list of topics I would like to learn more about.....so.... it looks like I have all my winter reading lined up! Thanks again!

[@SkillCult]

+GFD472 The most awesome part is the searchability. You can't always no what to search, but it really allows you to narrow down the amount of material you have to wade through to find what you are looking for. I've also ran across a lot of cools stuff I wasn't looking for though. That's pretty much how that charcoal as a soil amendment article came about. Have fun!

[@thecsslife]

Why did you cross out walnut oil? You didn't explain why like tung and hemp oil. I can get walnut oil very cheaply and I was hoping to use it.

[@SkillCult]

That was a second take and I didn't clean off the chalkboard. For tool handles, walnut oil is definitely fine. Linseed is very popularly used for good reason. It's a versatile and very drying. Tung and hemp are fine if they are pure, but you will probably pay more.

[@johncollins7555]

I apologize if this was already asked by I've used boiled linseed oil. How, and/ or should I remove it and reapply raw linseed oil? Thank you.

[@SkillCult]

If you want to penetrate the wood, you can scrape it off and probably scrape off some wood with it to get to the raw wood. If you don't care, I'd just ignore it. I'm focused now on a combination of penetration and saturation, how much oil how deep. At that point, the outer finish becomes irrelevant and unnecessary.

[@mmg781]

Hey Steven, I just discovered your channel and I'm digging the unique content. Quick question on handle oiling...I've read that some folks submerge the head of the tool in linseed oil to nourish the wood inside the eye, not just as a remedial measure for loose heads but for routine handle maintenance. Have you come across this practice in your travels? It seems like a great way to waste oil but on the other hand it make sense to condition the eye wood as well. Anyway, keep up the good work man!

[@SkillCult]

Hey, welcome aboard.I do that too, but I've found that it only works once if you do it thoroughly, because the oil cures in there and seals it off. After that, you are stuck with re-wedging, not that there is anything wrong with wedging to tighten heads. I actually have some cognitive dissonance about doing it though from something that happened with a linseed oil saturated piece of wood. I've done it a lot though and it seems to work pretty well. I might revisit that subject with some experiments sometime.

[@flipflat4814]

I just bought a new knife the company put a light application of Danish oil on it but it could use several more coats of oil on it. So my question is would you recommend any of these oils that I have right now at home for the handle scales; fractionated coconut oil, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, sweet almond oil or avocado oil. Or should l use Obenauf's leather boot oil containing Natural leather conditioning oils, beeswax, and propolis instead. The company claims it's a great oil to use on wood for protection and l have a bottle. If I had to I could go buy some boiled linseed oil, tung oil, walnut oil, mineral oil or Danish oil if none of the other oils I have will be up to par. Right now I'm considering using the 5 coats of jojoba oil or sweet almond and a final coat of obenauf's boot oil as a sealer because it contains bees wax. Any input would be greatly appreciated because I'm not really sure thanks!

[@SkillCult]

Maybe grapeseed, not sure. Canola, corn or soy are all fairly drying. You can look up a comparative chart of drying and non drying oils to compare. You con't want the coconut or avocado, not sure about the others

[@number8pencil]

What about walnut oil? It got crossed out but never mentioned?

[@SkillCult]

I just forgot to mention it. that was from a previous take. If you can find it cheap, then it's good stuff.

[@jimschowe2770]

I may have missed it but why did you cross walnut oil off the list with no explanation as to why? I use walnut oil on wooden spoons because I find the oil in the baking section of the grocery and have not any unfavorable effects yet. I do find your videos quite informative. THANKS!

[@SkillCult]

I think I talked about it in a previous take and forgot it the second time around or something. I don't remember. I had also thought it was always expensive, but it turns out you can sometimes get it on amazon for cheaper than raw flax oil. I have some now, but haven't put it to use much.;

[@adrianotero7963]

Like your presentation.... would lindseed oil be your preferred oil on olive wood ?

[@SkillCult]

Any drying oil probably, depending on the goal.

[@adrianotero7963]

@@SkillCultbushcrafting/hunting knife...... may see some blood.....and rain......

[@D4rkM4773r]

I want to hear more hemp stories now

[@KemAMP]

what about butcher block oil?

[@-Gunnarsson-]

Its easy to use blo but I hate the smell. It reminds me of food or oily popcorn.

[@qwertykevin1]

I'd love to hear your sources especially about hemp oil haha I'd love to read old literature about hemp oil

[@SkillCult]

I have a few kicking around in paper form, but I can't produce a list. It's research that needs digging into though.

[@Los8a916]

I fixed up my Dads old stiletto hammer and used boot oil on the handle. Can I start over and use the linseed?

[@SkillCult]

Probably. You might want to watch my other somewhat updated videos on oiling handles first

[@Los8a916]

Thanks so much, will do.