I did it!.... How I am getting a Chevy transmission mounted to an outboard boat engine

In this video, I build the first rendition of the SBC bell housing adapter to the Evinrude V8. A lot more work to come and tweaks, but this bell housing is getting us in the ball park of where we need to be. Excited to get more work done on it! Thanks for watching.
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[@danielsplayhouse3804]

I think what would really help you out a lot would be getting a cheap fabrication table like a clutch or one from Amazon or from Northern tools they have a decent one need something to put that on to fabricate on that's flat also you need to mount that motor on an engine stand to keep it at a true 90° to line everything up. I do believe you're fighting yourself with everything not being true 90° and level that does where you want it to be. But I'm sure as everybody else says out-of-the-box thinking with the beast of a motor you're working with is making great content and I'm anxious to see the ending and it running in that little 510..😊

[@armedinbama]

I am way impressed by your confidence and ingenuity! Really looking forward to seeing how this Frankenstein's Monster behaves once it comes to life!

[@bryancondrey6457]

You have to start your prototype somewhere...I think your idea for the bearing assembly (commonly called a pillow block) will be fine for initial design but for long term you will need something designed to spin at the RPM your engine can generate. When you get around to version 2, think about repurposing things that are intended to spin at those speeds. A carrier bearing for a two-piece driveshaft meets that requirement. Lastly think about leaving room in your design to balance your new intermediate shaft. Good luck and enjoy your constructive thinking!

[@jwoody8815]

Couldnt have said it better myself.

[@theupscriber65]

I admire your determination. You'd benefit from a machining class. Consider using a rear mounted transmission from a corvette.

[@murraymadness4674]

Or a 944...

[@smoovefishing]

Keep that great sense of humor! It goes a long way in life! Keep smiling also! You doing great job!

[@denhamdaves]

Moving the transmission back was done on purpose for better weight distribution no matter what everything's done on purpose professional KZbinr 👌 👍

[@mando719ad]

Don't give up bro, God bless you and your family.

[@StupidFastJohn]

i LOVE the madman design, ironically enough i just started a project just like this too. keep these 2 strokes ALIVE! 🤙

[@Diesr]

You Put the effort in this video people are gonna love it like me everyone likes 2 stroke everyone likes v8 and some people like Datsun that’s across the board win😂

[@bryancondrey6457]

Your welding probably pulled the assembly. Try again and use your bellhousing to hold it in place like a jig when you next weld. Then have your shaft trueness checked and your flywheel/flexplate flatness checked. By doing this you reduce the variables. You really need a stable workbench (on wheels) to help stop bending over and you will enjoy this process even more.

[@billvoorvaart7206]

Awesome work bud! Drills don't make tru holes reemers do, dimple the shaft under set screws purple permanent too

[@DatBlueHusky]

id be amazed if this all holds together well

[@bmiles2011]

I am also impressed with your skill. FYI: To mark holes on the backside of a plate like that. You can put a little grease (not too much) around the holes you need to transfer to the plate. Then press the plate against the greased holes. Now you can use the grease marks on the plate to then punch the centers.

[@jamest.5001]

Or put tape on the metal that needs the holes, and either use a ball bearing in the bolt hole, the bearing needs to be just large enough to not fall in, put the plate up against it and tap the plate with a hammer at the bolt hole, or, put a bolt in a drill, about 1" long, cut the head off, and grind point on it, screw it in the hole and do the tap on tape thing,

[@mccoulombe941]

Great job Innovation is never boring!

[@SocketSlinger]

Don't give up, your doing a wonderful job man. Can't wait to see the final outcome.

[@berg969]

Why not run the alternator and ac and cam gray off of the flywheel at the other end. Like a regular outboard. Count the teeth on the other flywheel. You might be able to just use that one and program in the count.

[@jimmysparks315]

keep going... just keep going...

[@denhamdaves]

But it's hot pa I don't want to fabricate anymore

[@jimmysparks315]

@@denhamdaves Quit whining... press ahead.

[@MrTjenkins101]

just curious, what would be the downside to running your timing, A/C and alternator from the front flywheel ? love the idea and this project.

[@charlesangell_bulmtl]

Unsupported weight on a large factory (balanced?)mass of flywheel. Also allows easier? access to cooling ports without the converter diameter in the way.. I can't blame him for eliminating the factory ignition, a bit daunting with the multiplicity of snakes wiring these outboards have. I'm not electronic savvy, but other people have this figured out, so their plan eliminates the number of wires to diagnose at some possible later date... Tho not near as reliable, I'd have been tempted to find an industrial belt CVT for transmission, or possibly a confab variable hydraulic drive.

[@blindabinda1234]

6:50 the magnetic bevel gauge is only accurate if the floor and everything else the engines mounted to are level also. You should get a digital angle gauge that can be zeroed out.

[@jackrichards1863]

no thats not right. though the gauge is rudimentary & inaccurate due to it's construction (it's shite).

[@hunterswiski8398]

Dang man that’s a really cool way of making a bell housing

[@HILLBILLY_HARD]

Bro I’m so intrigued by your enthusiasm. I love building stuff but I don’t have the willpower to power through all the obstacles I run into the way you do. I really hope this all works out and this thing screams!

[@brentonk461ismylostaccount]

While it will probably still work ok, the Reluctor wheels should have been on the opposite end to the transmission, on the other end of the Engine at the front of the car would have been a better choice and the transmission and torque converter as close as possible to the end of the crankshaft.

[@blahblahdrunksheep]

He probably could use the original system on the flywheel with ls loom and coils fitted

[@jonathancorbett5917]

I would recommend an angle grinder for cutting a shaft like that. The electric die grinder is great for other stuff, but it gets in the way for cutting straight.

[@davidgibbons693]

Oh, and I'm so addicted to this series - can't wait to see how you manage to deal with the total loss cooling and lubrication. Especially when you tore off all the clever lubrication stuff! :D

[@jastoper6178]

Bruh

[@frigglebiscuit7484]

premixed fuel, and run an electric water pump that loops through the cooling ports into a radiator.

[@johnp1966]

Cool project. I feel your pain about the heat. I'm just north of Tampa, trying to work in the garage is brutal right now

[@garethhurn3069]

How you get anything right with the tools you have is beyond me

[@rustyh8806]

You are absolutely fearless. If this doesn’t work,may I suggest getting a junk engine that works with your transmission. Cutting the entire rear of the block off, maintaining the rear main bearing. Cut the crankshaft, so now you have a bearing( thrust bearing) and a bell housing and starter mount. You’ll need to figure how to oil the rear main and mate your engine spline to the crank end,and your engine to the cast chunk your working with. An aluminum LS would be easy to work with. I’ve known people who have scrapped those engines that become unrepairable. Good luck,you’ll figure it out!

[@cmsracing]

Great job, keep up the good work!

[@Threads1220]

You could always put power to the starter and spin it over to check if the shaft is staying true or not

[@lawnmowerdude]

Very cool. One thing you might want to consider. From factory two stroke cars I’ve seen. The car needs some sort of way to free wheel essentially eliminating the ability of engine braking. Maybe the automatic transmission if left in drive may be fine.

[@pgreenlaw85]

You’re a smart dude. You need a cheap manual lathe and manual mill. If time is money to you, invest in some machines. The time you’d save on not using grinders and drill presses would pay off quickly, your fabrication can be cleaner and more precise. Besides the initial investment, I think you should take the dive! Where is your shop out of??

[@brentonk461ismylostaccount]

I could be wrong with the way the LS ecu sees trigger pulses, and I'm not a 100% certain, but I think you will find In order to get crankshaft rpm one too one tachometer signal, and a injector firing pulse and ignition pulse 8 times every revolution of the crankshaft, I think both the reluctor wheels need to go onto the crankshaft for your two stroke to fire every revolution of the crankshaft.

[@boredom.victim]

that's about what I said, twice as many teeth can be 1-1 and still feed the ecu proper signal because a sensor just counts teeth going by.

[@carlosdiaz60]

I admire your determination kiddo... I hope that u get it done.. awesome idea but a lot of work man... Sr20det... Just throwing it out there.... Good luck bro

[@jwoody8815]

LOVE that ford sitting ahead of you, its even the year I want, I even like the color. ;D lol BTW, Im cool with you thinking out loud alot, its like extra narration and notation, provided your self rambling makes sence to everyone else including yourself, lol

[@jimhiscott2918]

I just found this video. THIS IS going to be interesting 👍👍👍👍I am really hoping g for success

[@hunnybunnysheavymetalmusic6542]

26:20 Other than where your brakes and steering come out [on U.S. cars, we all know it is on the left side] and where your exhaust comes out [awkwardly at the top in your case] it seems you can take some cardboard, set it into the engine bay of the truck, and then make a 2D map of the exact engine bay, and from there, map out where the PTO shaft is going to sit, and this can make mapping your drive pulley and timing assemblies much easier, more logical, and allow you to do some 'dry test runs' with various parts and pieces.

[@freddyrosario23]

You can use a AlphaX ECU.. the software is capable for running a 2stroke

[@bryanglover3217]

Buddy you got one hell of an idea but you got to get that shaft with a dial indicator within six thousands of running true when it rotates or it'll vibrate so bad you won't be able to drive at 10 miles an hour it'll knock the front pump right out the transmission on your bracket system make it so you got three drop dowel pins like a triangle it'll help you keep up the work doing a great job

[@sebastianharrison6118]

Keep up the hard work

[@hunnybunnysheavymetalmusic6542]

I've had to slow down some from the heat recently, but I am hoping it will cool back down soon.

[@DaveFromColorado]

The two stroke V8 has already been done. I believe the guys were in Sweden who did it they joined an Evinrude V8 to a Powerglide transmission and stuffed it all in a 1950s Volvo. Some of Their videos are on KZbin if you search warm. And of course Detroit engines did it for a very long time, anywhere from one cylinder up to 16 cylinder 2 stroke diesel engines. That's where these 6-71 blower comes from... it was from a straight-six at 71 cubic inch per cylinder. One thing you were going to want to watch for is the rotating Mass for everything spinning at, below, or above crankshaft speed. Balance will be very important in some of those serious speeds otherwise things are just going to detonate.

[@davec200i]

Coming along. Looking forward to see how it progresses. One request, more frequent shorter videos please!

[@PapiDoesIt]

This car definitely needs a Mad Max theme when it's done.

[@boredom.victim]

I'd say do it like the Duster on Questionable Garage.

[@terryzig]

Lived in Houston for 8 years, learned that you must have a fan blowing directly on you to survive the humid summer heat. Obviously, consume water.

[@davidgourdie3691]

Something you might think about.Mid motor plate (Summit Racing) that would be a lot stronger,than what you've just fabricobbled.

[@aarongoff3914]

Hey bud, just wanted to let you know that in my experience, those 7/8 collars you are using on the drive shaft are a pain in the ass to keep tight, and are ALWAYS problematic. The set screws either back themselves out over time, or the tips of them dig in to the shaft very quickly, the collar comes loose, and destroys the shaft. I can't say I have another solution other than welding the collars directly to the drive shaft, but maybe someone will read this and have some more insight. Anyway, I love this project, and I can't wait to see you get it running and driving 👍🥹

[@billvoorvaart7206]

Purple permabond for the set screws, it's like superglue for steel

[@pauljcampbell2997]

I'm surprised that drive shaft isn't thicker considering the torque it needs to deliver. Although I suppose its normally driving a prop in the water!

[@hunnybunnysheavymetalmusic6542]

Looking better, even if there are a few re-work issues... That happens some times.

[@classicstangbrn8964]

Counter sink those bolts and use allen head bolts for clearance.

[@jamest.5001]

You can make a reflector with twice the pattern on it! Get send cut send to cut another reluctor as long as it has the pattern on it twice it should work great, no jack required

[@hunnybunnysheavymetalmusic6542]

34:45 You COULD weld the bolts as studs into the bearing support plate which would 1, save you a whole lot of space, and 2, eliminate the need to have 2 wrenches to hold a bolt and nut in place, and 3, ensure that the alignment is always perfect and not in need of you holding it in place long enough to assemble all the parts. I would also suggest grade 8 fine thread fasteners with crimp lockers to ensure nothing backs out. And even then, maybe some Locktite on the threads.

[@Goomer]

You have a vision.

[@claytoncoolidge992]

Theres adapter pilots mainly used when putting older transmissions behind an ls swap that you can get that you could use instead of a crank flange. Also just fyi cranks are a dime a dozen and any sbc Chevy engine up untill 1998 used the same crank flange and the 4.3l v6 uses the same flange as well can get a junk core crank for pennies from most any pick a part or scrap yard

[@vourkosdude]

I am hooked on this build. I am going to be slightly mean, but it looks like a clusterf....! KTM spent years developing a decent working injected two stroke and this dude thinks he can do it with second hand LS parts! And I am absolutely wishing, praying to be proved wrong and this engine working, because I had the same idea for a dragster some years ago, did some digging, some brainstorming, talked to various people and it looks impossible to do it correctly.

[@jeremyhanna3852]

Man thats going to need to be one very custom torque convert to handle a 2 stroke with its power band

[@ardennielsen3761]

1:09:00 just weld it up then shim the bell housing with washers that get welded on flat in relation to the flywheel "centricity"... there is going to be warpage from the welding anyways.

[@tomaspinto7079]

Why didn't you put the transmission on the clutch side?? and the cam chain will run dry wont it break? i am loving to watch this build keep it up man

[@camyota]

There is no clutch side on an outboard motor...

[@davidgibbons693]

...and no camchain. Or cam.

[@tomaspinto7079]

@@davidgibbons693 did you even watch the video ?? He just instaled a cam gear from an ls to make a cam chain spin

[@tomaspinto7079]

@@camyota I was talking about the fly wheel with a clutch alike contraption on it

[@jamest.5001]

It would be alot more simple to have a machine shop make a adapter shaft, that fits into the engine. with the cam reluctor on the back side of the flywheel adapter, and the crank reluctor on the flywheel, with twice the pattern on , so it triggers twice per revolution, that way the triggering is all handled at the same rough location! And the trans can be mounted closer, then twi 3/8" plates can ve used one for the trans bell housing, the other for the engine. Then a couple dowels to align everything. From engine to plate, then a dowel between plates, plus a few pieces of angle welded to keep everything in place, then the bell house dowels spot welded on the back side of the plate, maybe weld trans bolt nuts on the back, maybe cover the back side with 18ga. Sheet metal, with crank sense access location, it would be atleast half the gap as before, possibly get it done in 4" less than 6". And the 10"-12" plate will reinforce the bel housing plate, its like 4" thick adapter plate, the sheet metal making it look better, a 5-6 speed would be much better fitting.

[@richardpower154]

Years ago my boss had 2.8 v6 Yamaha outboard that the gearbox crapped out on. Would have gone nicely in a mini.

[@1crazypj]

You don't have a clue what your doing but know what you want so are doing it anyway. Cool stuff, great enthusiasm! Are you going to have 8 expansion chambers on it like a racing two stroke? (could easily double the power output but will use more fuel) You can get a HF angle grinder for about $10.00 for the cheapest one with coupons/offers, (and about $14.00-$19.00 any other time) As long as you don't force it, it will do the cutting you want a damn sight safer than the thing your using, particularly now the cord is cut through (why not repair the cord, even twisted together and taped is safer than what your doing?) Slot the mounting holes for bearing, put some washers on bolts, line things up then weld the washers in place and fill in gaps with weld Triangulation is your friend, from the widest parts to the narrow ones, get an old belt or even tape to see where things are going to run then weld in extra bracing, tube or angle to top of plate. It's better to overbuild when you know there is going to be a torque reaction,

[@jackrichards1863]

Hey young fella. You really need to start back at that engine plate & mount the transmission up to it directly. You gain absolutely Zero by spacing the two apart. Go show the guy at the machine shop and pick his brains about what you need? Thats going to ruin any handling the car could have being long. You have a starter on the engine right? You can ditch the ring gear off the flex plate. This is an exciting project. I'm loving it.

[@hunnybunnysheavymetalmusic6542]

55:00 Easiest thing in the world: pull the cord [gently] so that it is being held in place as straight as it can be without breaking, and then use a lot of electrical tape around the wound in the insulation. If you do at least 3 inches [1.5 inches each side of the gash] it SHOULD last you the life of the tool. Another easy remedy is to peel back the outer insulation and splice the wires with some solder [but slip some shrink tubing on them before you close them up!] and then wrap it in tape... And finally, steal the cord of some tool that quit working already and just replace the whole cord.

[@bobbywalter5320]

This could be the dumbest thing I have seen in months.....and I looooooove it!!!!

[@aaronobrien322]

Keep it going mate,really enjoyn your channel an the idea your chasing,hoping you can get some ac one day coz you work your ass off in that hot as f#$k space,cant wait to see this bests run!

[@sbartasek]

Use the engine itself as a low speed lathe to check alignment of everything.

[@Threads1220]

Another thing I don't think you've thought about is on boat engines the water all exits the engine through the exhaust so there's that as well. I know there's another car with this same engine in it but they don't go over how they got around that

[@Threads1220]

I am sorry I retract my previous statement about this engine and the cooling system it does flow through like a normal engine carry on. Disregard that.😂😂

[@hunnybunnysheavymetalmusic6542]

25:35 it seems you could put a collar on both sides of that sprocket for more stability...

[@alexduran6742]

Why didn't you decide to use the ignition system and charging system that is used with that engine? Is it not a self contained unit? If memory serves me correctly isn't there a module that is bolted to power head? I didn't check to see if you have the stator / coils / plate, whatever under the flywheel.

[@thegdfp6447]

Awesome project! I wonder if a steel commercial bellhousing for manual transmission would be a better start than the fabricated piece?

[@jedclampett6466]

You are holding up a flange bearing as opposed to the pillow block that you described.

[@hunnybunnysheavymetalmusic6542]

23:45 Now that I see how that crank dampener fits on that engine, I have to agree that it would be very advantageous if you could mount your pulley over it, BUT I worry that if its not cut and welded JUST SO, it will end up CAUSING more vibrations than it negates. Can you go to a custom shop and have them cut and weld those parts for you and make sure they are completely concentric?

[@williamcollins4082]

In 2 stroke. The piston and ports act as your Valves ... Some have reed valve as in buzz bomb engine ??? Early , had intake in crank case some with rotating disk valve ...

[@Simon.the.Likeable]

@ 1:00:45 - As soon as someone makes a two-stroke V10, I say go for it!!

[@claytoncoolidge992]

Detroit 2 stroke diesel engines 2-16 cylinder combinations available

[@Simon.the.Likeable]

@@claytoncoolidge992 I know about Detroit Diesel engines but thanks anyway. I was pitching for a gasoline two stroke V10 so James could fit that to the Datsun.

[@claytoncoolidge992]

@@Simon.the.Likeable ok so add a dizzy plugs and gas dump some compression off and bam hello 2 stroke 2-16 cylinder engines and yes it is seriously that simple

[@user-hd4eb5gd2n]

You don’t need an alternator. I has cdi ignition. You need to ground it to stop it. The flywheel. Had magnets and charge coils. Rectifier. Puts out about 35 45 amps. What about carbs they are facing down now all six have to be in sync. Out boards have 6 diff crankcase’s Wint idle. They run outboards on drag race snowmobiles mercury 2.3 Bridgeport race engine. They have fuel injection intake doesn’t care what position. Good Luck

[@xozindustries7451]

I hope you will be using a blow proof bellhousing, a ballistic blanket at minimum

[@twoeightythreez]

Once you get it to where everything is lined up perfect, it will be a really good idea to drill it for some dowel pins so it can be lined up the same time every time:) I know youre doing this awesome custom fab work, but if length is a big issue, i wonder if you could mount the engine vertically like how it wouldve been in a boat, and then fab an adapter to mount a transmission to the outdrive, instead of a prop. It may make it easier to hook up a cooling system, too. Yes, that means the motor would stick out of the hood like a roots blower, but I think that would be so cool! That said, maybe consider the transaxle from a 'vette or even from an old Toronado, just mount the whole shebang in the back of the wagon! Wheelstands galore :)

[@kevinhughes5704]

first thing you should do is cover-up them spark plug holes if you haven't got sparks and dirt in them already

[@petewitt2867]

I love your content. Such an interesting build. Your vid’s would go from good to great if you edited them down a little more. Great content is made by cutting good content out.

[@danhard8440]

if there is no keyway how is he going to secure the sprockets to the shaft?

[@keithbarron3654]

What are you doing about cooling, normally single pass, 2strokes usually dump out exhaust. Might work better to flip , intake on top, exhaust out bottom, if any water leaks would not get back into cylinders.

[@Marc_Wolfe]

Have you looked at the crank of that thing to see what the firing order/interval is. Might also need to get creative with some waste spark coil wiring, or you might just need to go with something like a megasquirt.

[@bimmerpooch]

Honest question. Does the engine run in the correct direction for this application?

[@makinbac0n]

Good question. Being a 2 stroke it could run either way if you can work out the ignition.

[@bimmerpooch]

@@makinbac0n I think the oil injection would have to be modified as well.

[@makinbac0n]

@@bimmerpooch Im old skool. I don't trust oil injection. I always mix the fuel. Which is an option.

[@bimmerpooch]

@@makinbac0n Lol I'm too trusting. I have working oil injection on numerous machines from 1973 up to 1996 that I'll continue trusting.

[@abyssmanur3965]

Roll the diff 180⁰ lol

[@teddyyoung1556]

To bad u didn't have a rear axle with the same splines to use as a shaft still cool and one of a kind

[@claytoncoolidge992]

Torque converter to flex plate distance should be 1/8in to 3/16in this is for all makes and models makes no difference between them hopefully it helps you get it set up

[@OzBull]

If you put the motor in a jig it will stay straight then you can weld to the jig to line everything up.

[@Levibetz]

I know it probably feels cheaper but man, why not run a megasquirt or speeduino for engine management. It'd be way easier than screwing around with this jackshaft and such. You could just run a 24-1 on the crank, grind another missing tooth off 180deg out and tell it it's a 12-1. Or those ECUs may even have a two stroke setting.

[@tomdoyle3455]

You could have used a Lakewood bell housing to save time and figuring

[@alexduran6742]

Good luck!

[@ipoopmuffins]

fuck yea dude, this is a great build.

[@wellscody86]

Will that outboard that’s designed to run vertically survive if it runs horizontally? Most other engines designed to run either way will just grenade after a little run time if turned on their sides, I get it’s 2 stroke but I’d imagine the thrust angles will change dramatically. Admire the will do attitude 👍🏻

[@billvoorvaart7206]

Also the plate for the flex plate must be spun round on a lathe

[@boredom.victim]

sandwich the cam sprocket in with the rest - since it would be driven 1-1, it should be fine. a sensor is just gonna count teeth going by 😉

[@418lightning8]

just a thought did you think about the bores being offset when you measured to your housing

[@hershellodle6667]

I am also curious if you are going to end up with multiple revers gears lol I hope it works tho. I have always wanted to do something semi similar. I would have left the factory ignition and side drafts if it was me. Just one less unnecessary mountain to climb.

[@jeremyhanna3852]

Its a stroke should run either direct just depends what direction you start it in i believe

[@TheRealDubyagee]

You need to name the datsun Leroy Jenkins once its running

[@christaylor2168]

What about figuring in how that center part on the torque that sticks out to center inside the crank. Like a pilot shaft bushing on a manual trans. Where’s that gonna fit in to your current set up?

[@burtmcgurt3584]

use a lovejoy connector it will help with any vibration.

[@williamcollins4082]

Gonna need huge oil cooler !!! PreCoolers ???

[@blindabinda1234]

You could try putting a sprocket on the alternator and run it off of your timing set