I Installed A Stupid Cheap Junkyard Big Brake Kit, And It Looks Amazing!

[@Rcmike1234]

For everyone trying to do this or thinking about it. I got my two front LS400 Calipers for 35 bucks TOTAL at a Pull-a-Part. Definitely worth it.

[@rustedratchetgarage6788]

Rcmike1234 i got the rotors, calipers with like new pads for 20$ per side at my local yard i already had rca's 1" made from heavywall pipe that fit over the sleeves in the balljoints with a set of longer bolts cleared everything needed bigger wheels but i found a nice set of 18s with tires off a 09 eclipse gts at the same yard for 100$ score

[@ianjohnson5365]

Yeah they're always gone here lol

[@offgridmangogrower]

@@rustedratchetgarage6788 curious what the rotor thickness was....looking to hang calipers on a 56 travell-all for improved braking.

[@shentrack3]

Thank you for inspiring me to wre nche very day, Tavarish. In all seriousness, you've been killing it lately, keep up the great work!

[@Speedyw00t]

The external grooves do NOT determine the direction. The internal cooling vanes do. There are 2 main types on your typical rotor. The more common is straight vane. These are multi-directional. There are also slanted internal vanes. These need to be moving towards to front of the car. These do NOT suck air in, they are there to dissipate heat better. Thought u might wanna know.

[@joshuaowens4797]

Many manufacturers specify which side the (performance) rotors go.

[@hardleecure]

Did the same upgrade to my 07 Impala. Bought 1" hubcentric wheel spacers (needed because the new calipers are much bigger) and then pulled front and rear calipers of the GXP, bought new rotors and pads and put that in. Went from having 12" in the front, 11" rear (solid, no option for vented) to 12.75" front and 12" rear (vented + slotted). Not only do they perform better than stock, they're also cheaper (because the car is the police package, with the most anemic brakes on earth) and last longer because the pads are a lot larger.

[@MrBillrookard]

I did a similar upgrade to my 2000 Mustang when I got it. Picked up a 13" brake kit (calipers and rotors) and what made a huge difference in the feel were the braided stainless steel lines. Yes, the giant rotors helped with stopping power (a lot!) but the braided lines helped immensely as it allowed me to modulate the brake pressure much more precisely.

[@GhiaSteve89]

hey man loved this. seriously thinking of painting my calipers silver now. that looks legit. quick tip I wanted to mention. You can get a cheap ($45 used) vacuum pump off of eBay meant for medical environments (search for aspirator). you can put it on the bleeder directly and make 1 man brake bleeding super easy as well as many other things suction pumps are good for :)

[@heikopanzlaff3789]

- or something what is purpose built for bleeding brakes for 10 bucks working with a compressed air operated venturi nozzle ...

[@looncraz]

You don't want vacuum. The power bleeder is actually a pressure vessel. Usually you pressurize to 5~10 PSI and then open the bleeders and the system will bleed itself. Sometimes traction control systems will require that you pump the pedal, but you are under next to no risk of air getting in the system with the power bleeder connected.

[@coolboy3848]

"If you don't think an inch and a half is a big deal...." I'm fucking dead lmao😂😂

[@tonyrichmond9428]

You WILL feel it, lol

[@lazydadsgarage]

You probably have good genetics

[@bionictulip]

That's the correct orientation of the brake rotor because you want the rotor to be throwing debris (and air) *off* the rotor when the car is moving forward, not *collecting* debris to the center. The more important part of that is the interior structure of the rotor (seen looking at the cross section, e.g., down from the top), where the interior structure of a drilled rotor usually has directional cross-frame structures that throw (or suck) air in the same way as the slots. Brakes always need to throw, because sucking will quickly clog the interior section of the rotor.

[@steveprestek9608]

The reason that the rotors are faced that way is because of two things. The cooling fins with the rotor mimic the pattern you see the and the cooling air moves from the center of the rotor (you'd see a gap feeding the fins at the back) and the grooves are meant to push surface gasses to the outside. One other tip is that if you are going to go through the pain of all this for bigger brakes, junk your old rubber brakes lines that run tot he caliper and put on a set of braided lines. Elderly rubber lines will expand under braking and that decreases braking efficiency. Braided lines will not.

[@blautens]

Amen - replace those old crappy lines - it's really not that expensive, it's far safer, it also looks good, and the improved and more consistent pedal feel makes for more accurate braking, particularly on track day. Not that I think a person with a clapped out Lexus SC, painting rubber boots, using brake grease on the back of brake pads instead of proper Permatex or other quality non squeal backing, and that thinks a Motive Power Bleeder uses vacuum to bleed brakes is (or should be) anywhere near a track... And speaking of brake grease....just Google "toyota brake caliper pin grease"...I'm willing to bet he's violated some of Toyota's sacred rules of proper brake lubricants. But I forgot - doesn't matter - he spray painted the boots! Oh, and I'm willing to bet that the silver paint on the calipers, which doesn't look much different than a new caliper (no depth or shine or metallic flake), comes peeling off quickly. I'm okay with subtle, so he can stick with silver, but buy some G2 Brake Caliper paint, and make it look really decent. Especially since it won't come peeling off after a 1000 miles and a few rain storms.

[@adamskikijowski9139]

The pad grease stops brake squeal. Also when bleeding a simple-Down, tighten----Up, loosen Etc, continue as such, done it for years. Stops air going back up through the threads.Some cars like the engine running to boost the servo when bleeding, makes live much easier. Hope this helps.

[@bleueyze3007]

When bleeding the bakes keep it simple. Command with "down" which is repeated and performed by the "foot", close the bleeder and command "up" which is repeated and performed by the "foot". Repeat until there is no more air or just go to Harbor and get a vacuum bleeder.

[@mikemakesandfixes2070]

I'm doing this upgrade right now, if you spend a little extra and just buy LS400 front factory rotors from Lexus/Toyota, them driller up conservatively at s local machine shop, it would be just amazing, specially if you upgrade to braded lines at all four corners!

[@broderp]

All I would add to this is that you can put some Never Seize on the center hub (after cleaning is really good with a wire brush and brake cleaner) so when you install the rotor, it will never bind or stick should you have to remove it.

[@ltwracing]

You might want to clean some of the rust off of the hub so you don't get vibration and warp your new rotors. Also, speaking of the rotors, the direction depends on the cooling vanes inside the rotor, NOT the direction of the slotted/drilled pattern.

[@allgonquin]

Tavarish, the Motive Power bleeder does not pull a vacuum. It pressurizes new fluid from its own reservoir and forces it through your master cylinder reservoir, down the brake lines, and out to the calipers. One more comment, you glossed over something which most will experience in rust-prone areas - that is disconnecting the brake line from the old caliper. This can be a nightmare in some cases due to a frozen, rust-welded connection. Lots of penetrant, maybe some heat, lather, rinse, repeat.

[@texan176]

If you will DIY all brake service on your car you can put in Russell speed bleeders to make the bleed job very easy. They range from about $12-18 a pair depending on where you buy.

[@stevenbauer7744]

BTW, the stock calipers you took off were actually the floating calipers. Sliding and Floating are synonymous and can most often be identified by piston(s) acting directly on only one of the two brake pads. As brake pressure is applied the piston acts directly on the inner pad, pushing it against the rotoer. Simultaniously, the caliper body moves in the opposite direction , pulling the outer pad against the rotor as well. The weakness with this setup is that any flex in the part of the caliper housing that goes over the disk and contacts the outer pad reduces the pressure squeezing the pad against the disk. The LS caliper on the other hand is a fixed caliper and has 2 pistons acting on each pad (4 total), pushing both the inner and outer pads directly against the disk. This design is called a fixed caliper. Additionally, the Motive bleeder uses pressure inside the bottle not vacuum. Pressure pushes the brake fluid into the master cylinder and through the brake likes so you can bleed the system by yourself. Also, on cars with ABS systems, bleeding may not work unless the ignition is on as I found out trying to bleed the brakes on my 4Runner.

[@ekimmilc]

i really like your humor with this job , yet you obviously care and know how to do the job! great job!

[@MrHyde14537]

It's actually the direction of the inner vanes of a rotor that dictate which direction they should spin. On performance rotors, the inner directional vanes should rotate in the direction you mentioned. On most non performance rotors, the inner vanes are not directional and run straight out. On those it doesn't really matter in which direction the outer drill holes/ slots go.

[@jok3yjesu339]

I would recommend getting a better grinder like a Milwaukee because if you break it you can probably get it fixed and since you aren't doing very heavy work it'll be a one time buy kinda thing

[@Parknest]

If you want to see rust get over here to the UK. Did you clean the mating surfaces between the hub and brake discs (that's what rotors are called over here)? You can save yourself money and grief by buying a one-man brake bleed hose. One end goes on the bleed nipple and there is a non-return valve at the other end. It makes the job 10 times easier and costs about £5 over here so you should find one cheaper Stateside.

[@keviningalls1309]

Hey Tav, love ya but a few corrections, 1) that 4-piston LS400 caliper isn't a floating caliper. 2) the SC400 OE brakes you replaced really aren't very bad. Similar brake setup comes on a BRZ, 370Z, Mustang, etc. similar budget sports cars. If you just got high performance pads you would have noticed a huge difference for less cost and much less effort. 3) A better option for people who want to upgrade rotor size is to clip them into segments and fold the segments back, so you retain the dust shield but it's not in the way. I did get an erection from your timelapse effect though, that's good stuff.

[@fataxe1]

A good way to do the two person is to say "down" when you want em down, and have them repeat, and then "up" when you want them up, and have them repeat. Always worked for me.

[@Mod2Fame]

Makes me miss my Lexus days, subscribed

[@retovath]

As with any crevice, that washer(caliper mounting) is at severe risk of corrosion. With it being part of the brake system, check it reasonably regularly.

[@neilross9867]

Hey Tavarish, found your channel by chance last night and watch a few of your videos. Brakes are about the only thing I've ever done on a car but I've loved watching you tinker with your cars. Liked and subscribed.

[@Grenyas]

1.5" gets the job done

[@enes19992525]

Eric Ortiz that's what she said...😏

[@thunderbirdizations]

That's what she NEVER said 😂

[@wolf2351]

Thats not what she said

[@johnsheetz6639]

Ohh tavvy. You'll never change! And that's why I keep watching

[@lampim]

14:45 been there! also if you forget to add more break fluid to the reservoir you start pushing air in the top of the line right at the master cyl. then you gotta bleed A LONG time to get that out!!

[@RajSingh-wp6wk]

Come on people subscribe to this man. He works hard and his content is getting better and more interesting. Love how he is opening up more

[@Karnage543]

"I did most of the work on my knees" lmao!

[@410kane]

Karnage543 gross😂

[@Ronke01]

Quick tip, making the torque wrench "click" multiple times doesn't aid its operation.Torque should be applied in one smooth motion until the noticeable (feel or audio) click, then you should just leave the bolt alone after that. Otherwise very nice video.

[@briankeery1]

Those calipers are fixed, whereas the originals were floating. You should index that rotor for minimum run out before installing the caliper. Great vids.

[@thekingsilverado9004]

These kits even the cheap kits are not a bad upgrade if you plan on keeping your old ride and driving the wheels off your car like I do. The kits I got and installed not only increased the braking capacity on my Silverados it also cured a long standing problem of the torque converters staying locked up when coasting to a stop or dragging the brakes in traffic on my Silverados. You would always hear that annoying slap or lash of the driveshaft when the torque finally reengaged after coasting or pulling out from a light and letting off the gas. It has eliminated this issue about 85%. I still get the slap when I am mildly coasting but when I am decelerating from hiway speeds to stop light I don't get the big loud harsh slap and the torque converted lets off before I completely come to a stop so these kits do have some good enhancement qualities. I have always faulted the trans pressure sensor for the entire problem and changing them out and the solenoids is a good idea when you finally change fluids. However I still have 2 Silverados I haven't taken to that step yet this year that will happen.

[@luboslavbujnak2022]

That is fixed caliper bro, floating was the original. Pro tip U need more light when filming , any LED bar with light paining tape over it will give you soft color and less ISO (grains) on the video

[@jayr6637]

This really makes me appreciate the brakes on my '03 Miata. It also has 11' rotors, but a Miata only weighs 2400lbs :)

[@mjohnston39]

Your videos just keep getting better.... well done

[@jonj8379]

Pretty cool, glad you pointed out some of the pitfalls, like wheels, dust guard, remembering to buy the right brake pads etc. I am curious at the quality of the brake lines after one of the calipers fell off

[@mousiee7]

Glad to see the SC4 getting some love. Great upgrade!

[@cocoabiscuits]

i bought what looks to be the same brake kit for my pos dodge journey for $117 rotors and pads. I like cheap too!! good work.

[@jjmcoupebmw6557]

Nice vids..fun times.. Next time maybe tape off the pistons in your calipers before painting them... the rubber boots aren't too fond of paint.

[@driver_cl]

You wanna make sure that you clean rotors to get rid of that oili protection before installing them. And that quick spritz should be in ALL the surface.

[@bulletgrazer]

Probably shouldn't have painted the rubber seals on the caliper.

[@DrewLSsix]

bulletgrazer0 why?

[@lmdaskievige8931]

yeah should have taped up the rubber seals

[@Technotranceism]

Good caliper design except they have 1 flaw, and that is the tiny pins in which the pads ride on require frequent maintenance, or you can end up with bad pad vibration when they bind from lack of lubrication despite the use of a anti-rattle shim between them.

[@MrRcw79]

The motive brake bleeding tank is not a vacuum pump. It pressurizes the master cylinder to force new fluid through the system. Also it only costs about $45, not over $100.

[@girlmastergeneral]

never heard of your channel before until tonight. Cool job!

[@Wayneman48]

Slotted & drilled rotors may cause a rumbling noise from the air rushing thru the rotors at high speeds. Mine make a noise between 60-70 miles per hours. They are installed correctly on the proper side.Use stock rotors. The heat dissipation is minimal on drilled & slotted. Not worth the extra money.

[@SamAbraham]

This channel’s production quality is improving with every video. Thanks Tavarish for truly interesting and funny videos. Not to mention your great taste in cars!

[@pballer2005]

fun fact, i found out that the 4 piston calipers on my mustang are also used on subarus and a couple other different makes and are interchangeable after doing a little grinding or shimming the mount..

[@phillippittman]

I have to say, your parody about brake bleeding was GREAT! Been there and done that!

[@brettdn13]

100% accurate on the friend helping the brake bleeding

[@DarrenCoull]

Nice vid. The brake pump *pressurises* the master cylinder (does not create a vacuum like you said). There used to be cheaper ones that had temporary replacement caps and you attached to your tyre for the pressure, but those needed topping up regularly, whereas this improved version at least has its own reservoir. Some cars, e.g. like my Discovery 2, you need a computer to activate the ABS pump to properly bleed the brakes - Same ABS unit (Wabco) as a Hummer, so guess that is similar deal.

[@beep383]

I was fixing the brakes on my wife"s daily driver 90 Honda Accord and I had her come out to work the pedal so I could bleed the brakes.....After she gets in the (her) car she yells out to me "Which one is the brake pedal?!?!" .......we have been married for 26 years and it is still one of our biggest laughs we still share together........brake skit is true and hilarious.....

[@FixItRyan]

Hahaha the added brake bleeding skit

[@tavarish]

Glad you liked it!

[@randolphcirilo4800]

Tavarish .. Your vids are getting witty, I like! Thanks for this specific build, I'm in the market for one of these old girls

[@manred6253]

Tavarish it was awesome

[@therealboofighter]

Tavarish, your friend sucks. I would fire him

[@daxydaxy9736]

@Tavarish, Hey man I don't wanna sound like a jerk but I think the reason why you didn't mount the wheel back on was because you needed spacers since the calipers were too big for the wheels no? You should be more detailed and thorough in the installation process including getting the proper spacers and/or even a caliper adapter like they do with Honda/Acura's because one thing very common in BBK or (big brake kit) upgrades is the uneven wearing of the brake pads. Lastly, I'm not saying your installation was anything sub-par, it's just people need to really research this upgrade well before jumping into it, or your couple hours of work could turn in frustrating days~ thanks!

[@davidg5704]

Great job and good sense of humor. Very helpful video. Are these calipers used on 9th gen Corolla's?

[@EricJ411]

Nice vid, but one small correction. The caliper is not a "floating" caliper as Tavarish described. It is a "fixed" 4 piston caliper. Fixed calipers have pistons on each side of the rotor The caliper that was replaced was a "floating" caliper since it has pistons only on one side of the caliper.

[@mukbangandvideos1557]

I think he's a backyard mechanic?

[@paikiah77]

Clean your hubs (remove rust, etc) bedore installing new disc rotors! 0.2mm rust is a HUGE deal when they rotate at 60MPH!

[@BentonHart]

That was almost exactly the the same amount of work to upgrade my 3rd gen 4Runner to late 1st gen Tundra brakes. Unbolt, 30 seconds with the angle grinder, bolt on, done!

[@offgridmangogrower]

Did you find a cross reference chart or a u pull it mock up? My 2nd gen Tacoma is short on stopping power especially due to the rear drums

[@BentonHart]

@@offgridmangogrower I don't really know much about the newer platforms. I'd imagine tacomaworld.com/ has the answer you're looking for.

[@unstablebobgable]

The dude helping Tavarish bleed the brakes looked just like him!

[@renovasquez5589]

The jokes in this video were actually funny this time

[@numinous4789]

My Speed 3 came stock with front 13" brakes. It stops incredibly. Close to some Ferraris, actually (in terms of stopping distance). Brakes are very important.

[@AutOdometer]

You are becoming one of my more favorite youtubers

[@larrybaker2261]

Put the end of rhe drain hose in a cup with enough brake fluid to cover the end of the tube then air will not be drawn back into the system. I'm 60yr old and learned this trick from my father. It can also be used to bleed hydraulic clutches.

[@larrybaker2261]

PS use a weight on rhe end of the hose to force it ro the bottom of the cup or jar.

[@kamsam6914]

Man i miss these types of episodes. Cramped garage, sweat and hell of a good final product

[@MobWithGuns]

Man tavarish. Vacuum up all that dirt and debris before spraying stuff down. Now it's a more annoying mess to clean up. Or use a fluid pan/ old cut open antifreeze bottle on its side. Work smarter not harder. Sincerely one of your central FL viewers.

[@namesalvaje]

At least you got help from your buddy in this video.

[@Kosmologiikka]

The orientation of the internal cooling vanes dictate on which side the rotor should be installed. Slots and grooves on the outside of the rotor vary depending on manufacturer and are not an indication on which side the rotor should be mounted.

[@jordanberry4824]

That's what I love about my 07 Mercedes C230 AMG package it is an AMG less the motor it has factory Brembo calipers and cross drilled rotors. The engine isn't anything to sneeze at either it's a 2.5 E85 factory motor so it goes real good. I have the AMG sport springs for short money if anyone is interested ? Because I just put Tein suspension in it.

[@thetincan6717]

maybe recommend using an old brake fluid bottle or an equivalent w small tubing w the bottle above the caliper w a fish tank type of anti back valve for a diy...

[@ChadMerritt]

Speed Bleeders! Basically check valves you replace on the calipers.

[@jamaicanlovrboy]

I never had to grind anything off my caliper or modify anything with my bolts to make em fit. And I had that same setup on my 95 sc, and now on my 99 sc.

[@mnwolves180]

The caliper mounting bolts for the upgraded calipers have torque to yield bolts. They should never be reused...... Should of sanded off the rust around the lug studs on the hub so the rotor sits flush and you don't develop warped rotors...... Just things I noticed Tavarish

[@mnwolves180]

Otherwise the video was great! Lmao

[@compactc9]

My brake toros and drums have always come off like that, especially if I'm the last person to have them off. I use anti seize where they touch the hub so they won't rust together.

[@MJ-fh8fw]

Thanks for making videos, my question is how does upgrading your brakes with larger calipers, brake pads and rotors affect your master brake cylinder? To me it seems like you would have to upgrade that too. Am I wrong?

[@eXiteVideoMagazine]

Not that it matters at 77k...but you got a new subscriber! Diggin' the videos, man!

[@rustedratchetgarage6788]

Dont pinch brake lines leave it hooked up til last minute just hang old caliper out of the way use two bolts to press rotor off dont beat it when you have dust sheild trimmed to fit new rotor and caliper unbolt the banjo and swap it to the ls400 caliper if you didnt loose any fluid from your salvage caliper you shouldn't need to bleed much at all i didnt on my gs300 to ls 400 brake swap also you need at least a .75" rca on the lower balljoint or your outer tierod will hit the caliper

[@oneoffour63]

A very well - presented video, informative and comical at times but a very, very good video..Keep up the great work!

[@TheMarschmallow]

lol i was mortified for a second when i saw how much play was in the control arm

[@thunderbirdizations]

10:00 when you skip left-arm day

[@xtophr]

I love checking out your vids. Keep them coming. However, there's a long controversy about pinching off rubber brake lines. And I say if there's even a chance of damaging them, then why do it? The brakes will be bled later, anyhow. Great looking job!

[@DomX2008]

@ 14:10 :-D Hilarious! First video I've watched of yours Tavarish, brilliant job at keeping us entertained alongside showing us a great guide to this brake set up. Thanks!

[@st1gma524]

Love your videos and builds man! They're always fun 👍

[@ballistic02]

at 7:30 or whatever you actually have the rotors on backwards. you want them in a way that provokes the air around it for cooling. the way the are now they just kinda allow the air to flow past..

[@peruprofundodance]

Tavarish, you bitch, we love you.

[@GilZu]

Fuck Love him 550 times.

[@gello1979]

I cry at night thinking about how much I love him

[@ChillRainyDrives]

lmao

[@AddyRyan66]

oh God 😂😂😂😂😂

[@nman2563]

You wish

[@TahaRahman786]

All your videos are great. You're the only youtuber I have notifications on for.

[@tavarish]

Thanks!

[@TonySkafidas]

Tavarish , it is the sc400 right not the 300

[@TonySkafidas]

Nvm read description😂😂.

[@sebsshenanigans]

aye, i've only just found this channel and only watched this video so far. that bell is already on ahaha.

[@dragmac9442]

The brake bleed part made me laugh so hard because it's so true lol. Keep up with the great videos and I'm living the content!

[@alannoward9047]

If you want to know the direction the rotor goes look for the cooling fins inside the rotor.

[@jordanberry4824]

It doesn't matter the direction of the rotor. I thought that to but when you buy a set one side never goes the right way. I've run in to that a few times!!!

[@Phos9]

I also thought about this while I was watching the video, but forgot: changing the diameter of the rotor changes the brake torque going to your front wheels.

[@valentinsantiago277]

Dude! That part about bleeding brakes with a buddy, lmfao! So true. And also I never knew about pad lube. Great tip, can't wait to ask my Dad about that. Really enjoy watching you man.

[@stephenreid7043]

Absolutely loved the brake bleeding routine! Why can people not say up and down at the appropriate times. Sheesh. Keep up the good work with the videos!

[@lacast_lifestyle]

Ahaha "If an inch and a half isn't a big deal then you probably have good genetics" lmao didn't expect nice vid man !

[@nelsonramos2218]

Awesome! For sure my next mod in my 98 sc300! Thanks bro!

[@MattGreenland]

Slotted rotors eat pads (by design), Drilled rotors crack because they are not good at cooling down the disk (or they are too good depending on your view).

[@BeeRad777]

I just stumbled onto your channel, man, your video is funny and informative. Subscribed!

[@jchaverri]

So true on the friend "helping" bleed the brakes

[@scottwa]

Some interesting ideas, but some bad practices. Don't wash off your new rotors with brake clean, use hot soapy water. Oh, but before that... DO NOT USE VICE GRIPS on your brake lines. There are tools for safely pinching them off, but you are way better off plugging them rather than pinching the hoses. Pinching the hoses or letting the calipers hang by the hoses can separate the teflon lining and cause brake drag as fluid then doesn't exist the caliper. Also, brake caliper slide grease is for the friction points where the pad is moving against a machined surface. On the new calipers you put on that might mean a light coating at where the pins go through the pads, NOT the back of the pads. The thin pad on the back of the caliper is there for reducing brake squeal by itself, don't put anything on them.

[@dagamore]

You know that Moto brake system adds pressure, not vacuum to the system, so that it can push the fluid out to the calipers.

[@Ygr3ku]

Thumbed UP just for that 1inch and a half pun.

[@RB-ng8de]

Yesterday i refilled my clutch on my mercedes and it was literally the same like u said with friends :D