Also physiotherapist and climber here: Climbing is not a sport, that adapts the exercise to your form, but rather your form to the exercise. We have to control our center of mass in relation to the position on the wall and a strict straight thoracic back pullup is seldomly the best way to move on the wall efficiently, when we just have to pull up. the situation is different when we are in overhang positions with diagonal stability on the wall. this requires us a lot to keep he thoracic spine stable and tight in an extended position to create a strong punctum fixum for the scapula, which enables us to stay close to the wall (round back is further from the wall obviously). whenever we mantle high, we need to get that thoracic spine curve to not fall out. this is just my 2 cents and i don't aim to devalidate the point of this video, but good pullup capabilites mean to have a strong shoulder control in the most diverse positions. with straight or curved thoracic spine. with the ability to transfer load to the left or the right arm. in contrast to climbing, there are sports that define the position and the form and you have to get strong in those specifically, like calisthenics, crossfit, even military fitness tests. to get good in those, you aim for form, and especially in calisthenics i can tell that passive tissue overload is the no. 1 factor that limits the speed of progression. by this reason, we should not get the impression 1) to be inferior by our technique, because we don't match "perfect form" and 2) that climbing is a sport that requires a certain form. regarding asymmetric strength (and i will add flexibility): it is a nice showoff to tell people that they are so asymmetrical and you get that "mind blown"-moment, but the truth is: everybody is. it is absolutely normal. you can focus on training yourself into evenness, but if that is useful is a whole other debate. the end result totally would be, but the time and energy you put into that is not a small expense. in climbing you can also argue, that routesetting will train you unevenly, which is probably true. in regard to injuries: it is okay to overload passive tissue (tendons, ligaments). sometimes you overload to much. you gotta respond adequately to that. in contrast to muscle, passive tissue takes more time to heal. so a lot of climbers tend to just go through the pain and this is mostly when serious injuries come into play. you got to handle that. progress is not a one way road, it is an up and down and you can only look at it when you zoom out. my conclusion: round thoracic spine pullups are important. straight thoracic spine pullups are important. loading the left shoulder, loading the right shoulder is important. dynamic and flexible shoulder movesets are crucial to the sport. pulling up round is not bad. if you want to improve in pullups, spend time go for diversity.
@fyziogymcooper124521 күн бұрын
Yes, it si definitely not so easy. And it is always very individual for the persons body, for the persons performance, place where they mainly climb, boulder or lead, outside or inside, ambitious, acutely injured, chronic pain etc. We need to be creative and the best way is to know both sides of the neutral position, no matter if it is flexion or extension of thoracic spine. But I guess it is always an advantage to know the neutral (individual) position and be able to keep it. You need to be enough flexible, stable and strong to be able to go trough the whole range of motion and use it when you need it. With Jana it was so simple because she just is strong enough to change it in a minute to the position which is expected. And in our experience it is very well transferable to climbing after some time of trying and working on that. People get the good feeling of knowing how, knowing the position, knowing the advantages which it offers. But that all belongs to the physios ambulance not to the KZbin channel. Anyway it is nice to share some info so people can try to define how do they do that and work on possible changes. Of course it should not make them feel they do only wrong and be sad from that and I hope that was not the result of that video.
@HahtaitaiАй бұрын
Very interesting! Thank you for sharing!!
@VickyAdelia-bs2yuАй бұрын
This is super helpful as I am trying to perfect my pull ups! Thank you!
@peterl0815Ай бұрын
Very insightful. Díky moc
@isakhammer6558Ай бұрын
Been doing pullups for ten years, and never been thinking about the crouch in bottom position and combining scapular pull with rotation.
@marievanderpoel19 күн бұрын
Love that kind of content. thanks
@JaneSvecova18 күн бұрын
Thank you!!!
@urabagofcells2228Ай бұрын
Awesome! She seems very cool!
@JaneSvecovaАй бұрын
She is my physio queen 👸🏻
@miradrasnar6544Ай бұрын
Unbelieavable
@ladovacobecnyАй бұрын
Seems legit. After some years of trying this and that a switched to one arm stuff as well, instead of weighted. Its interesting how your one side is really disbalanced, must have some specific climbing style. But pulling in climbing is always like, it goes to all sides and variations, its never like you can do this perfect pull up on rock. Maybe on some final edge or smt, so it might be the answer for that disbalance.