I'm STILL hunting for this suspension problem on my cheap 4.4 TDV8 Range Rover L322!

[@SamsMotors]

What do you guys reckon? Am I crazy for persisting with trying to fix this problem?!

[@davelr3x474]

I have a 2011 RRSSC that had both an adaptive dampening fault and suspension fault. The front DS air bag finally let go. Neither OEM bags nor the complete strut were available from AB so I thought I give Arnott a try and purchased a set for the front. All good but the ride was terrible (hard). Brought it to an Indy to have the suspension reset because it was in default mode (super stiff). It could not be reset and the terrible ride quality persisted. Got another set of Arnott fronts struts thinking the originals might have been damaged because one of the connectors was messed up when I got them. Second set performed the same. The Indy ohmed the strut sensor (very low), then called Arnott to find out the struts are being pulled from sale and heading back to engineering because the sensors wouldn’t communicate with the control module and the vehicle stays in default (full inflate). Maybe why yours rides ok when not driven for a while or until the compressor tops them off. Ended up buying a salvage set and everything is as right as rain. 3 month project. Still waiting for my $ to be refunded.

[@Bluebottle_GB]

How many others have you driven that ride better? If you want to have a go with mine - you can!

[@mattthompson8657]

I was about to say the same. Have you driven a few others recently so you've got a baseline of what to expect.

[@SaintChicagoJay]

I’d recommend just going with different parts I know range rovers can be expensive when replacing things but the truth is if you cheap out on the parts you can expect things to not work as they would’ve originally if not better. (Not insinuating you’re buying cheap parts) but I just know there’s a lot of cheap stuff out there that it’s a quick fix but doesn’t solve your problem correctly long term. Your control arms look very old, the tie rods, also check sway bar links, sway bar bushings, pretty much all bushings make sure they’re not old and cracked up. Idk just looking at the parts they don’t seem new to me. Just my own two sense. I’m not a skilled mechanic but I purchased the same vehicle 6 months ago. Suffered from the same problems (even worse mine was riddled with weird noises) but 6 months later here I am with a beautiful amazing smooth ride (Which actually shocked me because I didn’t think I could pull it off ) by swapping parts myself with quality parts since I didn’t have to pay for labor. Ppl say go for cheap parts all the time to me and those same ppl all have had vehicle trouble more than me.

[@Bluebottle_GB]

@@mattthompson8657 So, how about a meeting of 4.4 TDV8 L322s (presumably near a ferry port to Ireland!)

[@Dave-in-France]

Hi Sam, I can't remember if I've mentioned this before, so if I've said this before, excuse me (old fart!). When working on modern-ish cars suspension it is important to torque-up all fixings where there are rubber bushes whilst the car wheels are on the ground bearing the cars' weight. So if there is any doubt on this point, my suggestion is as follows : park the car on level ground; slacken all rear suspension fixings; move the car back and forth a couple of mtrs to allow suspension to settle; then torque up fittings to their correct torque settings.

[@srdjan361306]

Yep this is very important , it can make differenca

[@danl5592]

Always expensive repairs on RR air suspension, l had all mine taken off 3 year's ago, put heavy duty coil springs. Best decision I made.

[@tonypjr81]

Check your alternator (Generator). On my L405 it was going and starting having weird and random issues, one was my suspension got a bit rough. I didnt get an actual error until months of random gear box faults, random doors wouldn't lock, I would use my IDE Tool and notice my battery at 13.4-13.5V while driving. but would drop to 12 .4 while at a light, then jump to 14.1V. It finally died one day i got a charging system fault. I replaced it, and there was an instant improvement. Gearbox changes gears perfectly, suspension feels like new. it was like a total refresh.

[@stephenroot1013]

Really appreciate the time and input you make with your videos Sam. I learn so much from them - the ride you mention could this be anything to do with control arms/bushes? Just a thought?

[@danmurphy6541]

God bless your patience. A year into trying to sort it, i think I’d be looking for the matches…good luck with it anyway

[@SamsMotors]

Thanks 👍 if it was any other car, it would been long gone by now.

[@ojomamao]

I had a similar problem with mine after suspension repair at a shop - it turned out the wheel alignment was off... as soon as the alignment was corrected, she runs perfectly again.

[@neilwhite8131]

I find mine is very similar to how you describe, but I have never noticed it being better after sitting for a while, I will have to see if I notice it now. Looking forward to hopefully seeing a resolution. I have also thought about changing the front dampers as they are now 100K miles old.

[@jspope2008]

Sam thanks very much for your fast response! I was actually only going to get something specifically for my car that would help him as much as possible. That sounds like it’s the best. Do you know if you can change the language? Once again thanks very much for your help and advice!

[@matthewhaddon599]

When I had a Range Rover sport the issues I had with the ride were due to the compressor. I had cleaned all the valves etc., but issues came back to the compressor. It’s worth checking that the pressure is correct and builds rapidly when running and doesn’t drop.

[@SamsMotors]

Hmm, you're the 3rd person that's suggested compressor. I'm trying to figure out how it could affect ride quality - as it is just a pump for filling the reservoir, at the end of the day!

[@noelwhittle7922]

One thing I'm guessing you haven't looked at (edit, I see in other comments you have done) is the height calibration for all 4 corners. Short story is the calibration procedure on the D3s and D4s is such a head scratch I'm convinced that most people screw it up. The result being what happened to my car (D3) is that the 2 diagonally opposite struts were doing all the height levelling and the car ended up being really tippy. For example, sometimes I sat at an intersection and the car was rocking like it was being blown by the wind. It also chopped those 2 load bearing tyres very quickly. I delved into it and found the 4 calibration factors all out of whack, so I just reset them all to zero and it was fine.

[@AutomoTom]

I was thinking the same thing, after I had one front bag replaced the garage did not calibrate it and it drove terribly. Luckily I have an IID tool and reset all the suspension heights and it drove well after that. Mine is a 2004/5. It might also be worth checking that the suspension heights are at factory levels and not higher which could throw the balance off.

[@noelwhittle7922]

@@AutomoTom In some shots it actually looks higher, which would make it ride harder.

[@tonysaunders9655]

hello sam just something for you to consider. 3 months ago i bought a 2011 from a dealer 72,000 miles i was really happy with it. every now and again i had low battery warning i spoke to dealer and no messing bring it in sir we will fit a new battery. which i did. well what a difference when i drove away it felt like a different car. but when you think about it, everything is controlled by computer. and if the battery is not quite up to spec it slows things down. and a new battery at about £130.00 ish treat it as a service part every 2 years maybe. thats my experience of things.

[@SamsMotors]

Battery is always a great thing to replace on these Tony for sure. I've not long fitted a brand new battery to this though, so hopefully we can rule that out.

[@lear60man]

Shot in the dark...It sounds like a calibration issue with the ride height. When the car is off it resets to factory but goes back to bad after a few miles. Maybe hook up your diagnostic tool and look at the sensor voltage after a drive or in real time, then compare to the manual. Good luck, gremlins are a pain the butt. Could also be something as simple as a worn bushing....when cold its stiff but loosens up after being exercised.

[@colinhoward74]

If you are using Std 20 inch rims , it could easily be tyre pressure related , I run Std 20 inchers for my tdv8 L322 , running one size up from std 265x50x20 Khumo's , if I have my tyres inflated for load (2.5) the car exibits a bit of a hard ride , if I run slightly under pressure , it is also hard and a bit out of sorts , you HAVE TO RUN YOUR TYRES AT 2.3psi or else it does not ride quite right .

[@khunchai43]

Sound like air line restriction but since it effect all wheels more likely air valve suspension unit not working properly. Good luck!

[@jspope2008]

Hi Sam. Enjoy your videos especially as I have just bought a L322 V8 Diesel, which is straight into a garage for repairs! 🤦‍♂️ This is why I am reaching out to you having watched your video on diagnostic things . I live in Italy. My Italian is poor and the guy I you at my local little garage is jack of all trades. I mean he is not Land Rover trained or anything else I suspect but seems good. I want to buy for him a unit which can be changed into the Italian language and if possible when it finds a fault it actually tells you what to do, or at least gives you an idea! The suspension issue you were talking about Ect. Hope to hear from you !

[@SamsMotors]

Thanks for the comment! So, if you're serious about keeping the L322, the best possible tool would be a GAP IID tool. They're not cheap but it will work on your phone or your mechanic's, in your native language. Most of the tools that I have shown in the videos will give you the same sort of information regarding fault codes - which any decent mechanic should be able to use to work in the right direction. The difference between the tools is in the special/extra features, of which the IID tool has the best complement by some margin. HOWEVER, the IID tool will only work properly on JLR products - so if you're thinking of getting him a tool which he will use on other vehicles, one of the others that I showed would be a better bet. The Otofix D1 Lite which I reviewed: amzn.to/3Wr103Y is a fair bit cheaper than the IID tool, but will work on every major manufacturer and model. The downside is that it doesn't have the advanced JLR features that the IID tool has - but for 99% of use cases it'll do the job and point you to the fault. Oh, and it has 16 language options including Italian.

[@Paul-wg7im]

Technical issues aside... your content has determined me to upgrade from my trusty saab to a L322 - fingers crossed I'm able to find my own V8 sometime this summer :) Much love from Romania!

[@SamsMotors]

Cool! Glad you've not been put off... Romania is an awesome place and I'd love to go back. Lots of cool places to explore there with an L322!

[@ajmtank191919]

Have you tried different tyres? Your at3s have a higher load rating that factory spec and hence stiffer sidewalls, and that coupled with their lower profile will give a harsh ride. I had the same prob with ko2s and swapped the tyres for something more road biased (michelin CC) and it transformed the ride.

[@SamsMotors]

It could very well be tyre related but the hard ride issue was present before I had these fitted. Also there are plenty of folk around using the same size tyres as me on these cars apparently without issue. Could definitely still be tyre related though, would be nice to find a second set of wheels and tyres to try out. 👍

[@ajmtank191919]

@@SamsMotors just another idea for the pot....it wasnt so much the tyre size alone being the problem, but using an All terrain tyre in that particular size. All terrains should be on 17” wheels max to compensate for the stiffer sidewall and give it flex. 18” above you’d be better on road tyres, theyll drive better in the wet to!

[@CitronadaClub]

@@SamsMotors I wanted to write you the same suggestion for tires. Mine L322 has significantly better comfort with the original size 255/50/20. I’ve managed to put 285/50/20 Pirelli Scorpion all season and ride quality is terrible. The additional weight per tyre is 3kg or more… I’m planing to reduce the size to 19” 255/55 :)

[@Aidan.17]

Sway bar bushings commonly fail and cause a knocking over small bumps. I wouldnt say they make the ride bad though. Park it on a flat surface and crawl underneath and grab the bar with your hand and push and pull. If you can make a knocking noise they have failed. I just put rubber spacers in my rear and very quiet now.

[@kindafunky1997]

check/ replace both crosslink valves (rear lives under o/r arch liner. front lives under o/f arch liner) compressor will flag a code 9 times out of 10 so doubt its that. Genuine struts are the only way to go. A complete suspension recalibration can be done with genuine diagnostic (especially as you have all new height sensors) also check you rear subframe bushes. They split but also move around in the subframe if they arnt pop rivetted in. goodluck!

[@gordonbarclay6106]

Looking forward to the up and coming vids..

[@SamsMotors]

I'm itching to get stuck into the P38 now.

[@gordonbarclay6106]

@@SamsMotors Itching to see all the vids..

[@MrTwister86660]

Nice Dewalt boots Sam. I’ve got the same and they’re great: never needed to be worn in. I had a pair previously for 6 months and the sole started coming away and Screwfix exchanged them for a new pair no quibble. You get a 1 year warranty

[@SamsMotors]

Cheers Richard! Yes, best boots I've ever had. These have done nearly 3 years now and still comfy and in one piece. 👍👍

[@g19anson]

I recently had to replace the air pump and I replaced the air tank as it looked liked it had been stored titanic. The ride and handing is so different I presume it was the air pump couldn't provide enough presssure its night and day. The reason I found out is I drove my mums and I thought jeez something is wrong...

[@SamsMotors]

Interesting! I would have thought if the ride height was correct and level that a worn compressor wouldn't affect the ride quality.

[@g19anson]

@@SamsMotors I’m not sure I can explain it, but I had access to both cars back to back. I did run some diagnostics and the pressure in the tank was much higher with the new pump. I eventually had air suspension faults shown in the ecu where the pressure wasn’t rising quick enough. I tried rebuilding the pump but that didn’t work, so I installed a new one, the biggest difference is the handling where the car doesn’t roll anywhere near as much.

[@AdHominem888]

Try put her on stock tires! This may sound not related, but this car has so many sensors that different tires may bug the system.. worth the try...

[@SamsMotors]

I may do so soon, if these new struts don't work it might be the only thing left!

[@davidperry6736]

had same with 20 inch wheels went up tire wall size was better turned out be the hydrolic block pipes goes into on suspension replaced that cured it

[@bobscheiberlich8840]

Bought the same tyres after your review. Great sofar!

[@Nemesis007]

Hi Sam, Time to sell your L322 & purchase a L405 as a new project.

[@stevebobojones]

Love Range Rovers but don't have one ,but in my experience Tyres ,what was on the car originally tyre pressures ,and any live data off the adaptive suspension .I don't think Land Rover would have put Off Road Tyres on a £70,000 car .Great content..

[@hughclark4220]

Don't give up now , is the problem better or worse since you changed wheels/tyres ?

[@crawlstockrc]

Don’t overlook the fact those wheels and tyres aren’t a standard item. It also doesn’t look like it’s sitting at the right height for an RR.

[@SamsMotors]

Agree, they're an important component for ride. However, it did ride the same on the original 19" wheels, and it rides the same (or slightly worse even) at the standard ride height.

[@crawlstockrc]

@@SamsMotors it sounds like an adaptive problem then. Like when the gearbox learns your driving style and sets the gears accordingly. Are there CCM updates available vie the iid tool?

[@kingkongking11]

tyres can make all the difference try the range rover on 18 " wheels and general grabber s

[@richardmann5856]

Hey Sam, have you looked at the air suspension compressor? If a minimum threshold pressure is not achieved within a set period of time, the air sus module locks out each airbag to stop a slow de-flate. I found this with my XJR X350… I’m sure the rule logic is near identical…

[@richardmann5856]

Obv the output was a firm ride…

[@SamsMotors]

Hi Richard thanks for this, that's an interesting point. When you say it locks out each airbag, how do you mean? As opposed to what? I would have assumed that once height is achieved, the air spring valves would remain closed until a height adjustment is required. But I could be completely wrong there by the sounds of it! Thanks again Sam

[@p739-n2i]

Dynamic suspension requires more inputs to the control unit than just suspension height. It would need to know if you are turning, climbing a hill, how much camber, etc. I would expect the steering angle sensor and some type of accelerometer/level/yaw sensor would also be used for calculations. The suspension system only provides a height control and leveling control via the height sensors based on vehicle load. It most likely is only checking when the vehicle is stationary and requires a set time before operation. The VSC must tell the dynamic what the vehicle doing so the dynamic can tell the suspension system what and when to do it. I suspect the problem is in the VSC system since the issue goes away when you turn it off. If you have any VSC codes, start there. You should recalibrate them, check or log live data on these sensors and see if you have bad spots in them. Dont forget to check the mountings to make sure they are not loose. Try disabling the dynamic module in the CCF, and pulling the fuse, failing that, if you have a good friend you may be able to swap controller and or sensors with theirs for testing

[@SamsMotors]

Yep, you're correct - among others, the Adaptive Dynamics module reads wheel displacement (height sensors) accelerometers, yaw sensor, steering wheel angle, speed, and probably lots more. I've done a fair bit of data logging with all of these sensors with the IID tool, which all looks 'OK', but it's difficult to know what normal is without a direct comparison. I might try going back to SDD on my laptop as that has better logging capability for the dynamic suspension stuff than the IID tool does. Thanks, good suggestions

[@p739-n2i]

@@SamsMotors I just purchased a 2008 Range Rover and it appears to have the hydraulic sway bar on it. If you have that i would try disconnecting the links at the wheels to see if the problem persists. It sounds like the wallowing is being caused by something operating to slowly and causing the truck to rock after the bump or change in height not the actual dampers

[@SamsMotors]

@@p739-n2i Definitely no hydraulic sway bars in mine. As I said before, pretty sure that's only an L320 (Sport) feature. Discovery 2 had it too, called 'ACE' (active cornering enhancement) on those cars.

[@p739-n2i]

@@SamsMotors Could it be that the pressure sensor for the air system is reading low? The system uses volume to control height but pressure determines the speed of change. Could the air pressure sensor be reading high? That would cause the system to react slower. due to lower actual pressure. I wonder if you should have someone else with a similar vehicle take it for a spin and see if they concur with your thoughts and compare them on the same road. It is possible that on some roads the system will simply react that way due to the shape and frequency of the road and you happen to use those roads?

[@SamsMotors]

@@p739-n2i possibly. I think there's a good chance my reservoir leaks, as the compressor seems to run most mornings when I start her up. The springs don't leak and it stays up for weeks on end without dropping - but the leaky tank could be related, and having a weird effect on the spring rate somehow?

[@powerontom]

Does that model have the air valve blocks? The RRS had 3. Front, rear, and middle. Doesn’t hurt to clean or buy the rebuild kit for them. Some super fine particles from the compressor dryer could get in them.

[@unklesounds2]

Hope you get it sorted. Have you used it off road yet? I have same year & same spec, took it to an off road park recently & it was incredible. Even on crap road tyres it got up sections that some of the specced up defenders & disco's couldn't get up!

[@SamsMotors]

Not properly yet, I'd absolutely love to though. Just at the moment I feel like it'd probably break something (or me!) with how firm the ride feels over bumps.

[@StreetMotionUK]

Have you solved the problem yet? I almost feel like you would benefit from building some sort of stand-alone gadget which objectively measures ride quality as some sort of percentage score which you could both use to compare against another L322 but also to see if changes you were making to yours were actually making incremental gains

[@grahamwhite9589]

Might be something you’ve already sorted but when I changed the drop links all round to the anti roll bars the initial roll side to side was far more controlled on bump roads.

[@nickynewton3991]

May sound daft but check the alignment with a proper four wheel machine and chuck a different set of wheels on it well tyres anyway

[@SamsMotors]

Definitely a good suggestion, it's well overdue an alignment but I'll probably try and do the rear bushes first.

[@emildelin462]

I changed the compressor on my 3.6 tdv8 last weekend and the ride got much better than before. I havent gotten to it yet but i suspect when i open up the old one. The built in air dryer/dehumidifyer will be busted and mucky. Just a thought.

[@SamsMotors]

Strange! Do you attribute the poor ride to the blocked dryer, then?

[@emildelin462]

@@SamsMotors Perhaps. There is one easy way to check and that is to remove the litte golden suppressor on top of the compressor. That would increase air flow and tell if the compressor is faulty. Land rover sell a work around part for this named RQV500050 It is basically the supressor with a tiny 3mm hole drilled nere the base.

[@tomthumb3085]

May I suggest that you search “Brittanica restorations” on KZbin. He has a lot of videos on this suspension system.

[@SamsMotors]

I know who you mean, will give him a watch 👍👍

[@jamest5149]

Have you tried another L322… they aren’t quite as smooth as you might think and wallow a lot. Tyres make a huge difference in ride quality and performance so another thing to look at.

[@SamsMotors]

Planning to do so soon, that's the only way I'll get a feel for what it should be like!

[@anilms2582]

I thought the same thing James. I use Michelin Touring tires on my L322 and the ride quality is better than i dare say - a Rolls Royce Wraith i drove in recently.

[@cosmicp.o.m.e3460]

Just going to throw this out there. Is there a way of testing and recalibrating each of the different terrain modes? To ensure they are switching/behaving as they should be. Just a thought. Thanks for the content mate. I will have a L322 one day....One day. PEACE\/

[@karbussisass]

My 2011 4,4 tdv8 had a similar problem and the problem was front left strut wiring.

[@SamsMotors]

Did yours throw adaptive dynamics warnings though? The wiring to the strut tops is a common issue, which mine has had repaired in the past. 👍

[@nigeldlm]

Hi i have a lr3 2005 similar suspension issues hard ride when cold softens up when car warms up but then the same issue with bobble heas and wallow left and right . One funny thing is when you corner hard eg big roundabout it hunkers down on rear outside wheel a bit like the old escorts with single leaf springs rally style lol

[@KevinCawley-xx8kj]

I'd change the valve blocks judging on experience. Always an Achilles heel

[@SamsMotors]

Yeah I had thought they might be a possibility. Have you ever had a ride quality issue caused by the valve blocks?

[@KevinCawley-xx8kj]

@@SamsMotors Hi Sam, with my D3 yes numerous times. Definitely worth looking at the valves as the seals fail.

[@garystuart226]

Hi Sam, may i also say fantastic and very informative videos , thks for taking the time producing them, hats off to u for keeping with it trying to chase the errors , massive respect , currently a D3 owner so indeed know some faults can be a right so and so to find , have also been looking at the TDV8 as got that itch that wish to once in my lifetime own a FFRR , seems the TDV8 engine is the one to go for , can’t decide on either a late L322 or the L405, been looking into the dynamic suspension system on the L322 and the L405 , looks like it’s only the RRS that has the hydraulic anti roll bar system, fingers crossed for u that u finally find the error , compressor and tank as u say are worth a look, ref the gap iid I’ve recently bought another code reader by carly , just wonder if that may show more detailed data on the system, well I better stop rattling on, lol, thanks again and following with great interest , all the best , gary, PS, just had a thought , know ur extremely knowledgeable and hope the following doesn’t come as trying to teach u how to suck eggs but could the valve blocks for the suspension be letting by a very small amount , ie, if there’s white dust from the air dryers compressor and therefore allowing air to escape from each valve block , on mine I did use a vacuum hand pump on each valve to test each one to ensure they weren’t letting by , Apologise asking but has it had a Hunter 4 x wheel alignment done , also wonder if any bushes are possibly worn , steering wheel angle sensor, plus didn’t realise the longitude sensor had to be calibrated , sorry for such a long post , got everything crossed for u and once again hope anything I’ve said doesn’t come across as disrespectful , all the best

[@SamsMotors]

Hi Gary, thanks for the mega comment! Valves are definitely a good suggestion and will be on my hitlist if the issue persists after the front struts have been replaced. Some bushes have been replaced but not all - and it's definitely due an alignment but there are a few more bushes left to do first. All good suggestions, thanks!

[@garystuart226]

@@SamsMotors , hi Sam, ur so welcome , for my sins had landies for some 30 x years so understand that some can be very frustrating , talking of bushes i wonder when they were replaced if the wishbones wernt jacked up to the correct height setting or put down back on the ground before being torqued up, so would in effect twist the bushings, hope it helps and indeed look forward to see what u find , thks again for the fantastic content , all the best , gary

[@ChristianFrench1]

My 2011 car seems pretty harsh over bumps in the road, when I hit a bump the whole rear end seems to skip sideways across the road, a bit like a performance car. I had a brand new M4 Comp for two years and that was less skittish over bumps. Except the bags and shocks I have replaced every piece of suspension.

[@rovercoupe120]

hi the SAM, here are some thoughts of mine, so if the height sensors are ok in actual values and the terminals aren't crusty,then with all the parts you have changed , i would look at actual values/ live data on diagnostic tool, its is possible that the desiccant in the boot of the compressor has long gone south and been drawn in to the air pump and into the valve blocks, when the desiccant fails it stops absorbing water then turns to a white dust like sugar and covers all internal air components and causes mayhem, its pretty much the only thing i can think of at this time and the front rear center valve blocks are the only common link that doesn't seem to be investigated ,with the adaptives off the car and the non adaptives on it, (apologies if you have ) so possibly live data whilst on the road and see what might be happening? best of luck, keep us posted.

[@SamsMotors]

Hi Rover, Yeah I definitely need to do some more data logging with SDD. If these new front struts don't solve it I think I will start looking at the compressor and valves very closely. Do you think the dessicant issue you've described could cause a poor ride? If so, through what mechanism? Thanks for your thoughts!

[@Rovercoupe.]

@@SamsMotors yep.. because the l322 design it soo floored..it was once described as a collinder! Because of the water ingress into the boot area either boot seal hinges around multiple body panels and top spoiler to tailgate and bumper main bolt fixings..the water gets in the pump sits in a puddle..then the desiccant is trying harder to dry the air out and eventually ends up being drawn in the pipelines and valve bloody..it may be worth when under the drivers side pulling off the air tank and a, checking condition if it's a steel construction as it could be ally..and taking out the pipes and then see if any water comes out..( I did this and much more with mine)..then I removed all valve blocks and used the 4x4 air seals from the Bay.. this helped mine no end.. although not adaptive system..I seems that's all that is left that's common to all the work so far and the only bit that would possibly be linked to the fault being still there even when you changed to the non adaptive system to troubleshoot it..but being a A land rover product they can test the patience of a saint..it's definitely well worth diagnostic on it in real time actual values just to see if it does correspond .. unless there is an electronic gremlin possible coding..I know you changed the rear bags already..but I no it's a long shot..get hold of ldf leak detection fluid..spray the bags thoroughly..if there is a leak it will bubble like frog's spawn..( I did that and much more on mine..) never leaked in high.but leaked in access and normal/ motorway height..the bags seals itself in high then the tiny holes or hole opens up in normal and leak's..driving it felt awful and dangerous at speed for me.. just a thought to completely eliminate the bag's.. apologies if you have already. keep us informed and best of luck Paul.

[@pistonnerd]

Something you haven't mentioned but worth a consideration is whether the cars modules could do with some updates?

[@Horsleyclassics]

A challenging one to solve without firing the parts canon at it… bushes might be a consideration…

[@jimsmotoringmayhem]

Have I missed a video Sam?.. merch?.. another great video mate!, will have a look back and see if I’ve missed any 😂

[@SamsMotors]

Couple of videos back, the first P38 vid Jim 😂 Link in the description if you wanted to treat yourself ;)

[@jimsmotoringmayhem]

@@SamsMotors I’ll find it mate, I’ve just dropped over £6k on deposit for my new car and emptied my current account 😂 give me a couple of weeks mate and I’ll definitely purchase some merch… which will feature heavily in my next video! 😂 have a good day mate and speak soon. Jim.

[@rolandmorris5897]

Hi Sam. Did you ever resolve the harsh ride. Mine is the same and I have gone along the same route as you, but to no avail.

[@keijokokamagi3648]

What about that other rear damper that was changed before you bought the car? What make is it? Maybe it is not working correctly. Another great thing for diagnostics is if you could get your hands on some 4-channel lab scope to see what those dampers are really doing. Unfortunately, IIDTool has no live data for the Adaptive Dynamics System. But you can probe the wires with a scope and see detailed output signals for damper solenoids. Also, you could look at the live values of the accelerometers, which are also part of ADS, to see if some of these are acting weird.

[@SamsMotors]

It's a Bilstein one, correct part number. I fitted a matching one to the other side a while back. Data logging would definitely be interesting if I could get the right kit.

[@keijokokamagi3648]

@@SamsMotors some time has passed, have You checked the acceleration sensors yet? If some of them give wrong values, might mess up CVD also.

[@craigcooper8741]

Have you considered the tire size? Are the tires that you have installed the correct size? If not, they will affect the quality of the ride….

[@andybals216]

Hi Sam...not sure if you still have the L322 as I'm watching a year old post, however on your rear damper replacement vid, I noticed that where you had your jack stand resting on body mount it looked like your chassis and body mount had a fair gap..maybe it's your rear body mounts are worn?

[@darrenjaundrill2010]

I haven't had this issue. I briefly had an adaptive dynamics and suspension issue and turned out to be a worn wire which was replaced and fixed it. Now I've said that, I'm sure I'll be punished by having this problem soon. It sounds like you've done most things to fix it. Just sounds like a full calibration and sensor alignment to knock it back into sync. By which I am saying it doesn't sound mechanical. How does she handle offroad and when you raise and lower, have a look a the live screen - is everything moving as you'd expect?

[@1971V12]

Very difficult to diagnose electronics based faults if you are getting fault codes. It can only be related to parts you have already checked/ replaced or about to replace. After that it’s another wiring fault possibly?

[@HMC_LTD]

Back to basics what's the tyre pressure double check that Chinese tyres Roll bar bushes

[@tomwbetteridge18]

Have you calibrated the ride height sensors. On the P38, if you change a ride height sensor and not calibrate it with the blocks you can end up with one spring taking more of the weight than the others which can affect the ride. Might be the same with the L322

[@SamsMotors]

Yeah I went through and did a height calibration after fitting - didn't show it in the video as it was getting a bit lengthy. Definitely an important factor in ride quality though

[@almac414]

When you mentioned wallowing, and the dsc stuff, have you changed any of the cross link valves in the system? I’m wondering if it’s valved so that air moves about from corner to corner and it’s not able to because of a blockage etc. Have you tried blasting the airlines out?

[@robholland6460]

Definitely try new adaptive front dampers

[@SamsMotors]

Fingers crossed 🤞

[@johngriffin641]

Shocks don’t make much difference to filtering out small road bumps IME as their job is to control a oscillation in the springs ( dampers are a better name) The main ‘ shock absorbing ‘ system on a car for dealing with road roughness is the tyres.

[@SamsMotors]

I agree - but with CVDs they have the capability to go rock solid when de-energised. If you've ever driven your RR with an 'adaptive dynamics' fault, you'll know what this feels like. You could drive over a pencil and feel it through the dampers when they're like this.

[@johngriffin641]

@@SamsMotors You fitted non CVD dampers and the problem is still there so logically the issue is elsewhere. You also have much bigger than stock AT tyres. AT tyres by design have stiffer sidewalls and harder compound than road tyres so this will give a harsher ride as well as possibly sending unpredictable data to the Adaptive dynamics ECU. On the FFRR forum I said that replacing 7 yr old ( ie rubber gone hard) Scorpion Verde for new made a big difference to ride comfort on mine. Still get a bit of harshness now and again but generally the tyres are doing their job of cushioning out road imperfections very well.

[@jerrygreene7139]

Hi Sam, thanks for the tip on placing a bottle jack in the back. I’m in the states and am having trouble finding a bottle jack that has enough length to get the tires off the ground. Do you mind to share what make you are using? Thanks for the video!

[@SamsMotors]

Hey Jerry, the bottle jack I'm using is just a generic 10 tonne one. It has an extendable screw-top on it, but It's nowhere near tall enough to jack up under the body jacking points. For changing wheels and working on brakes etc, I always jack the RR up under the lower suspension arms, and then put an axle stand under the body jacking point to support it.

[@jerrygreene7139]

Thanks, that helps a lot.

[@neilwhite8131]

@@jerrygreene7139 not sure if you can get them in the states, but over here Mercedes delivery vans come with a very good bottle jack, plus you can buy an adaptor to replace the fitted end of the bottle jack that fits the L322 lifting points. very easy to fit.

[@jamessouthern4778]

could either the front or rear or side blocks want replaceing i had simulerwith my disco 3 every time i went over a lot of bumps the 3 amigos came on and the suspension dropped and i could only

[@jamessouthern4778]

the blocks had got damp in them from being where they were situated

[@b1e2m3]

I did a 2” lift on my 2011 RR sport after I did an alignment this helped a bit but I noticed a digging in on tight turns and twitchy handling. The problem I found was that with the air ride inflated the dampening was much harder due to the higher air pressure. I think the work around is 2” strut spacers that will air out the suspension giving me a softer ride. Is your vehicle lifted?

[@ianlongmore6898]

Did you get to the bottom of the issue Sam? I have similar problems, im thinking the cross link valves are buggered

[@bluechops12345]

I think you've got some bushings gone in the front and or rear. As for the side to side wallowly-ness I think that may be caused by your large sidewalls...

[@SamsMotors]

Bushings are definitely on the list - got a big box of them here ready to fit when I get a chance. The sidewalls of these tyres aren't actually very big - almost the same as the original 255/55 R19s.

[@bluechops12345]

@@SamsMotors I've got 255/55/19's on mine currently, I can confirm going up an inch to 20" wheels makes a huge difference to handling and feel although you do loose some of the absorption of little bumps!

[@Fosgen]

Fat tires plus mechanical springs, but long travel suspension. Beats any electronics suspension to ground in my opinion.

[@kevinskea9388]

If the issue improves with the DSC turned off could it be yaw sensor related maybe? If it's sending inaccurate signals the ecu will be trying to fix an issue that isn't there.

[@SamsMotors]

Quite possibly - the yaw sensor has a longitudinal and lateral sensor in it too that I know is used by the adaptive dampers. I've actually got one here to fit, but leaving it as a last resort as it's a pain in the backside to access!

[@laurencefahey2085]

Love your videos Sam 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

[@SamsMotors]

Glad you like them!

[@beetleything1864]

Have you ridden another L322 to compare with yours ? Could be just the way they are ? Otherwise - has yours been in an accident and the frame is out of alignment or something crazy like that ?

[@MorganandSophie1]

Great video Sam - your frustration is clear to see. If adaptive dynamics primarily involves the shock absorbers given the requisite speed of response, then what is the relationship between these shocks and adaptive dynamics specific air springs? Do you have adaptive dynamics shocks AND adaptive dynamics springs? Do they need to be matched to be effective? If you are able to source a cunning machine for the purpose, it would be interesting to see the signals that each of the elements of the system are receiving/transmitting...

[@SamsMotors]

This is an interesting one, because there are technically two different part numbers for air springs (VDS Vs non. VDS) but most places only sell one part to cover both. I'd like to know for certain though!

[@MorganandSophie1]

@@SamsMotors I looked at Rimmer Bros page for L322 suspension and they list continuously variable damping air springs AND height sensors - begs the question if one requires the whole set - shocks, springs and height sensors in continuously variable damping form - in order to not confuse the active damping module?

[@SamsMotors]

@@MorganandSophie1 dampers and height sensors are a definite - but I don't know for sure if the air springs are any different. If they are, that could well be the cause of my issues.

[@MorganandSophie1]

@@SamsMotors I am sure you are more than familiar with p190 of the Workshop Manual which almost comically illustrates 28 distinct and expensive looking components , which on the face of it, should deliver a halo-level ride quality...quite sensitive these go anywhere vehicles...

[@Rovercoupe.]

Hi Sam..did you get any further ahead with the eas issue? What is next?. Paul.

[@SamsMotors]

Hi Paul, I've got two new front struts to fit soon, hoping to do that in the next week or so. Issue still persists!

[@Rovercoupe.]

@@SamsMotors hi Sam.. sounds good are they the vds adaptive one's..or the Dunlop one's you mentioned.. keep me updated..I have an l322 and it's in constant need of attention.. they are living beings, they are always listening and picking the most worst time to break..but we love them.look forward to the results..if they aren't the Dunlop's what will you do with them,I'd be interested.. best of luck Paul.

[@Rovercoupe.]

@@SamsMotors hi Sam hope you are well, how is the suspension and strut noise going?, All the best Paul.

[@jdenmark1287]

The Johnson Rods are a critical component to the entire air system , somewhat ironic considering how flimsy they are.

[@SamsMotors]

Yeah I'm always amazed how chinsy they feel!

[@Pyrotec_nick]

It's not something silly like a bush or ball joint? Be weird for it to come and go. Be interesting to get something like a Picoscope and read some signals to look for anything odd?

[@SamsMotors]

I have a sneaking suspicion that not everything is fine and dandy with the CAN network on this car... after repairing that wire splice under the carpet, it could very easily be the case that another CAN splice somewhere is broken or not connected properly. Just need to figure out the best way to read and interpret the CAN signals. We used CANalyzer at work but not sure I can get hold of that.

[@Pyrotec_nick]

@@SamsMotors won't they let you borrow it for a weekend ;) failing that get a reader that will graph live data and look for drop outs?

[@housemonkeychill]

hard ride might be hard springs, I'm assuming the springs have air pressure sensors. could be worn or faulty reading.

[@mattthompson8657]

The pressure in the bags doesn't really change unless the weight of the vehicle changes. The volume of air just changes depending on the ride height selected

[@tramptruck4859]

Self tapping bolts into the subframe 😡 The men who designed the P6 and earlier will be spinning in their graves. It might be worth a look at all the ground/earth points, corrosion will "modify" readings. Good luck, it will be interesting to see what it is.

[@ragingrover]

Compressor and pressure?

[@tikrainezedgaras]

Hello Sam. Do you have any information about the timing chains on these 4.4 TDV8’s? I am looking at a high mileage (190k miles) L322, which allegedly needs timing chain replacement.

[@kiranbestford5303]

hello sam i was just wonder had any gearbox work on the 8hp

[@SamsMotors]

Nothing except for the Megaflush service carried out around a year ago (see my old videos).

[@itsjoel]

I have similar issue, at higher speeds, the ride seems too firm, not as bouncy as it should be. Also with a nasty but subtle vibration through the wheel... so annoying!

[@SamsMotors]

Strange! Did the vibration persist through your recent wheel & tyre change?

[@itsjoel]

@@SamsMotors yeah, it got worse actually

[@SamsMotors]

@@itsjoel probably front suspension bushes worn then. The lower arm can cause steering vibration/wobble if the bushes are gone. Your new wheels/tyres are slightly bigger no? If so it would accentuate the problem and make it feel worse.

[@jon81crowe]

Have you checked rear subframe bushes, sure you have but just on off chance

[@SamsMotors]

Changed them earlier this year - but good shout!

[@noelwhittle7922]

@2:33 am I imagining? it looks lifted. If that's the case put it back to stock height, air bags ride harder at higher pressures.

[@SamsMotors]

It is slightly yep, around 20mm. The pressure in the air springs doesn't change with height, it's the volume of air that changes. Also it rides slightly better with a slight lift from my testing!

[@noelwhittle7922]

@@SamsMotors I know what you're saying about pressure/volume/height but as an example it's well recognised that the D3s & D4s ride harder when lifted. There is a design feature in airbags where the internal shape of the airbag support is tapered so it creates a progressive damping effect as it gets compressed under load, I cant recall if that's the case with LR airbags. But generally, if you are chasing the 'stock' performance you need to operate it at the optimum geometry that it was designed for, and that includes having the correct offset on your wheels.

[@SamsMotors]

@@noelwhittle7922 Understand all of that and agree with you. But I did run it at standard height for most of this year, and noticed a slight improvement when I added 20mm recently. Similarly with the wheels, the problem was present prior to the wheel & tyre changes. It would definitely be a good idea to revert everything to bone stock though - it's just getting ahold of the wheels that's a bit more difficult here than in the UK.

[@noelwhittle7922]

@@SamsMotors ok, I've only come in late to the saga. But otherwise, keep your eye on the height calibrations so that it's not 2 diagonally opposite struts that are taking all the load. Happened to me on my D3.

[@nlroel]

I have a similar problem with my 2011 TDV8 4.4. My L322 is hanging to the right when starting the car and drive for 15 minutes. Calibrated again and still the same problem. So weired.

[@SamsMotors]

Strange! Mine has a tendency to rise at the front over time, despite calibration too. I think it's improved since fitting these new sensors though 🤔

[@josephkinnear5802]

Hi Sam just stumbled across your channel, welcome to Ireland I moved here myself a few years back. I see you have two range rovers just wondering if you know where I could find a 2006 TD6 over here.? I'm having a nightmare trying to find one they are all shite.

[@SamsMotors]

Thanks Joseph. They're definitely in short supply over here - I'll keep an eye out.

[@HeavyMechY]

have you got the tracking done? mine felt and jelly like. once i got the alignment done it was a completely different car.

[@Rostinhi]

Did you ever get this problem fixed? Have the same on my D4. Horrible, horrible ride.

[@shmuelrabin4185]

What is the calibration app your using?

[@andybliss6538]

Hi Sam Another great video., understand your frustration. I’ve just come back from a week in Ireland with my 4.4TDV8. As soon as I drove off the ferry at Rosslare I thought I’d swap the TFT dash to KPH, but couldn’t work out how to do it. I’m back over for two weeks in September so would like to know how it’s done. You must have done it when you moved over. Any tips or am I just being my usual stupid.

[@SamsMotors]

Cool, did you enjoy your trip over here?! So, I've added the digital speed readout to my dash through a CCF change (IID tool). When you change the trip computer to km (through the dash menus), the digital readout also changes to kph. My main dial is still in MPH but I believe it's also possible to change that in the IID tool, which I'll have a go at doing soon I reckon.

[@TJC156]

I know we aren’t a great country for specialists but have you tried to find a Land Rover specialist who may have come across it before? Think there’s one in Dublin but not sure about Galway. If it was me I’d stick a set of original wheels on it but then again I’m a loser who likes original stuff!

[@SamsMotors]

I'm very reluctant to go to a garage with it, I think they'd just want to fire the parts cannon at it too - but with a 100 euro/hr labour charge on top. It might come to that though!

[@davidsloan9804]

Sam i have the same problem with the air suspension when you let the air out to change the air bags do you need a compressor to fill the air back into the system . David

[@SamsMotors]

Hi David, no it'll fill itself automatically.

[@hoppaistvan9982]

are the sensors on top of the shock absorbers working?

[@garrykennedy5484]

How are the anti sway bars and bushings?

[@tuningemporium]

Have all the suspension bushes been checked? How’s the compressor, is it over working ?

[@SamsMotors]

I've done the rear subframe bushes and the rear hub joints. But not got round to the arm bushes yet. They don't "seem" worn out but you never know with these cars 🤷‍♂️

[@barrytemple808]

Could it be the rear bushings or subframe bushings ?

[@SamsMotors]

Rear subframe bushings I've done, but yeah there are still a lot of rear arm bushes that I've not touched yet.

[@TheBendalina]

On a different note I’m not that impressed with the ride on my discovery 4 and I’ve been told it’s normal!!

[@SaintChicagoJay]

Replace the air suspension. Try arnott that’s what I used on mine. Drives beautifully smooth especially on buMps in the road. Got my control arms and ball joints from FCP euro. Also make sure your compressor is working as it should. Arnott also offers a compressor

[@SamsMotors]

I'd love a full set of arnott springs but they're not cheap!

[@julienmelo3948]

Hello, you know how many mm standard position for 18 wheels ? Ps.: suspension

[@SamsMotors]

Do you mean suspension height calibration? Standard measurements are 483mm rear and 493mm front measured from the centre of the hub cap to the bottom of the wing.

[@davidcarrillo6682]

Hello, I’m writing from Guatemala, I have a L3222 supercharged 2006, but I have few issues with it. I have tried many things but I can’t see to be able to resolve them. Could you give me some pointers?

[@SamsMotors]

Sure I can try. Leave a comment here or send me an email at [e-mail] 👍

[@ianwiggins8782]

Why don’t you get in touch with Kinda true Jaguar Land Rover