I messed up the retrobright on my Commodore 64

[@figurehead1971]

Always worth removing the badges before retrobrighting. A handy tip i learned is to get some dental floss/tape under one edge of any badge and use a sawing motion to cut through any adhesive. You have less risk in bending the badge that way.

[@donincognito9006]

Im going to binge watch all your videos! Keep up the great work, you have a bright future because you passion for good work shows.

[@BillAnt]

Here's a tip, add a cup of vinegar to the peroxide to activate the oxygen. Also, contrary to popular belief, it's not the UV light that actually speeds up the process, but the heat generated by the light. Therefore using a heating lap used for plants or putting it into on a tray into the oven on low setting with the door open for a couple of hours will work better and more evenly. ;) I've done many retro-brighting jobs, here in the US we use liquid 27% peroxide used for disinfecting swimming pools (check your swimming pool supply stored, ask for "pool oxidizer).

[@Sayakas_Digital_Attic]

Thanks for the great tips! I appreciate the insight. I'll definitely try adding vinegar next time. It's awesome to learn from someone with many experience in retro-brighting jobs. 😊

[@geografiainfinitului]

vinegar and peroxide results in a very nasty corrosive substance. So extra precaution on that stuff getting on any metal.

[@BillAnt]

​@@geografiainfinitului- Yes, vinegar and peroxide forms Peracetic acid which is more active than peroxide by itself. Vinegar has a low concentration of acetic acid, therefore you won't get a very strong Peracetic acid. You could catalyze with a small spoonful of hydrochloride acid.

[@nR-kv7xo]

hey Billant, i did a quick google search and the only result about pool oxidizer and retrobright is this comment, could you elaborate more? dump it on some water and leave it outside? how does it work? @BillAnt

[@dixztube]

Interesting discussion I know little about chemistry seems fascinating though

[@TheBasementChannel]

Thanks for showing what didn’t work. Retrobrighting is one of those mysterious areas where everyone has their own method, but no one really knows what is best. Keep it up!

[@katho8472]

I had decent success with laundry bleach from the supermarket, UV light and a "sous vide" cooking stick, heating the water to about 40°C

[@unikron2003]

This is why I only do submersion method for retrobright. It is almost guaranteed to come out perfect each time. I do what the 8-Bit Guy recommended and using 40 Volume hair developer as it is basically straight up hydrogen peroxide. Mix that with some water and place it either in the sun or under UV lights. I have found, much like his experiments, that heat helps radically accelerate the process. For indoor use, I am thinking of building a rig with a heating pad that will go under the container. But normally this works fine already if using sunlight on a hot day. I have retrobrighted dozens of things this way and never had any problems whatsoever. Keyboards, computer cases, video game consoles, etc. Everything always comes out perfect when using the submersion method.

[@onlineactivityvideo]

I missed my old commodore ! Thanks for reviving the passion !

[@MrSporkster]

I had a C64 when I was a kid. Fantastic machine!

[@clovislyme6195]

Good to see you taking care of these C64s. I wrote handouts for an entire lecture course - hundreds of pages - using Easy Script (my first word processor) and a dot matrix printer. I was very fond of it and eventually learned Oxford Pascal, Forth and 6502 Assembly Language using it. The 1541 drive was, however, a horrible device.

[@EmperorKonstantine01]

I'm a semi-Retired 38 year Service Technician, I have worked with names such as Osborne, Olivetti, Kaypro, Commodore and Apple repairs in the 80's. I have a collection of machines dating Back 50 years And I have never considered retrobriting, after doing extensive research in the chemistry lab field the platina which incorporates the fire retardant built into the plastic will weaken with UV exposure in time, (naturally) the hydrogen peroxide procedure will also penetrate deep into the layer and remove the agility and platina of the plastic which will make it brittle overtime, besides the brittleness the yellowing will also start to come back in 6 to 18 months as the fire retardant molecule starts to do its job again and the second Retr0briting attempt will gradually weaken its surface structure. The Retr0 machines are designed to have that old look antique feeling, and I just don't simply understand why people feel so uncomfortable and unpassionate with its appearance and want to attempt change it. What one person does on another video doesn't or shouldn't necessarily reflect what others should also to or attempt to do. Retr0biting has coincidentally been brought up as experimentation and their is no really textbook manual.

[@blackterminal]

I agree. You know what the people who did this and caused their cases to crumble will go looking for another. Sure as the Sun rises.I will never bleach a case. Unbleached computers will be worth more eventually as people will know the plastic is more solid.

[@pablogonzalez-xu5ji]

After all. The final result is not the one wished but it looks much better than it was with that venom sticker and the yellowing from years. It' s great.

[@Sayakas_Digital_Attic]

Thank you for your kind words! I'm really glad you appreciate the improvement, despite the final result not being exactly what I had hoped for. Your encouragement means a lot to me. I'm actually considering working on a system to make it even better, and I might even document the process in a future video. Your support motivates me to continue experimenting and sharing my projects. Thank you once again for your feedback!

[@pablogonzalez-xu5ji]

@@Sayakas_Digital_Attic let's fucking do it. A 486? A 386? A pentium 1? A sharp x68000 or fm towns? Anyway, do it lady.

[@michaelcarey]

Great video. I also found that the cream peroxide caused damage to metallic badges on my equipment. I now remove anything with metal before retrobriting. The most promising method I have seen to date is vaporbriting where you enclose the part to be treated in an enclosure with high % liquid peroxide and expose to heat. This releases ozone as the peroxide decomposes and the seems to give a more even result.

[@softline6924]

Great to see you do restoration on old plastic parts. I never use vinegar but also never dip part in the peroxide as well. I always put them on something sturdy and close the box ( should be transparent)so damps can attack the plastic. This way, i feel, the surface stays better intact. But as always; lots of ways to do it but love your video, you are not afraid to show results that are not as expected. Nice short and useful, keep up the good work!

[@Sayakas_Digital_Attic]

Thank you for sharing your method! I'll definitely keep that in mind for future restorations. It's great to hear different approaches, and I appreciate your kind words about the video. I believe it's important to show the real outcomes, even when they're not as expected.

[@jeffreyphipps1507]

There's a board that is designed to hold a variety of DIN sockets while soldering (and while directing which pins do what in writing).

[@duanewebber1514]

do you have a link for it or do you remember the name of it ?

[@VNSnake1999]

Your videos are so relaxing and somehow reminds me of the old days of pure youtube.

[@TomDBKK]

Thanks for a great idea on how to make a bath, to have one that fits into another is a great idea. I also have the UV led strips but tried to wrap it around the tub, that came off and was a mess. Its much better to use another tub like you did, with some foil for reflection too. I need to go get another tub that fits right now... Oh and sorry for the outcome on the 64, happened to me too in the beginning. Good luck with the next item!

[@RDJ134]

No succes without failure.

[@sykoteddy]

I want to complement you for not hiding your mistakes, or what ever it should be called. Also, think about it like this. You learn more about mistakes than always being successful! Maybe this will make you interested in how to artificially make stuff look older instead. Love you content!

[@ArmySigs]

Wonderful video! Shame that it didn't work as planned but it's all part of the learning process. Looking forward to more videos.

[@MakaioMC]

Loved your video! I still have a bottle of peroxide here which got never opened. And now I know why, since I would mess it up certainly too 😂 But some day I will 😇

[@lovemadeinjapan]

My method for retrobrighting right now is just put a yellowed item out in the sun as-is. But I never saw a Breadbin in need for retrobrighting. It is made from plastic that is pre-coloured like it had the worst bromine flame retardent breakout ever, but that is how it is supposed to look, weird enough, ugly enough. Even my C64C and 128 have no browning whatsoever. I guess the German factory banned the flame retardents before the US factories did. Same with my Apple stuff. The made in Ireland ones stay pretty nice.

[@Dogsarecoolnice]

More videos! I just found you and love the content so far!

[@Sayakas_Digital_Attic]

Thank you, I would like to make more videos, but unfortunately, I am studying software engineering, and it keeps me quite busy

[@revealingfacts4all]

I really like the light box you came up with.

[@Sayakas_Digital_Attic]

Thank you!

[@robertgijsen]

My experience is that you need UV-C light, not the regular A or B. That in combination with heat. I tried without sunlight / UVC and only heat and peroxide but that did nothing at all to my SNES parts I was trying that on. I always just completely immerse the part in peroxide, 12%, make sure the parts keep immersed, and seal the transparent crate. Then I just put it in bright sun and usually after like 8 or so hours I'm good. Very good results so far. I like it going slowly as you'll have more control. I never liked the cream-method as I feal it's bound to give streaked or marbled results. When immersing, the results are the same all over the part. Anyway, I really like you as a young person with those interests! Best of luck with the channel!

[@Sayakas_Digital_Attic]

Thank you for sharing your experience with retrobrighting! It's great to hear about different methods, and your UV-C light and heat combination sounds interesting. I agree that going slowly can give you more control over the results. And thanks for your kind words and support for the channel! I really appreciate it. 😄🕹

[@RandallCrook]

I also found the immersion method gives a more consistent result. The two times i use the cream method i ended up with the same sort of result you did. BTW it is gratifying to see to your interest in what I have found to be an old mans hobby. I wish my daughters showed an interest. LOL.

[@PromoVisionNZ]

We all messed up at least once. You can spray it and have awesome and unique C64.

[@Paxmax]

I experiment different methods and heat/light, but not on C64. I did testing on old lamp buttons and outlets. I used Peroxide/distilled water mix tho. I hope I can find my test results again...

[@Retro4u]

Same happened to my c64 lol. But mine came out the dishwasher funny 😂.

[@rlad116]

I also messed up my snes and NES when i tried this :( you should make a follow-up video!

[@hbasm3271]

Subscribed! 😄I hope your youtube efforts will pay off for you!

[@rsmrsm2000]

amazing !!! please more videos.

[@joopidema]

Good attempt. We all messed it up in the beginning😅 Next time just put it out in the sun. That will retrobright the case. Or put it in the transparent box you already have with the lid on and 12% peroxide. Just a few millimeters on the bottom is enough. No need to submerge it. Then put that in the sun on a warm day. The peroxide will condensate due to the heat of the sun. Works perfect, does not damage any labels and you only need very little peroxide and you can reuse the peroxide multiple times.

[@Sayakas_Digital_Attic]

Thank you for your advice! I will definitely take note of your suggestions for the next attempt. It's so handy that it doesn't damage any labels and that the peroxide can be reused multiple times. Thanks again for pointing that out!

[@underwoodblog]

Treat your soldering iron a new tip, that will make soldering easier.

[@lt7895]

At least your Commodore 64 looks unique :)

[@skynetcybersystem3tech]

👍

[@TheSenseiNeo]

Good video, I have subbed for more!

[@arcadiotorres7464]

Great!!

[@nR-kv7xo]

Lmao. I did retrobright yesterday and messed up too. It’s hard to do it right

[@Sayakas_Digital_Attic]

Retrobright can be tricky sometimes! It's all part of the learning process. What happened with your retrobright project?

[@ulrichschwenk6164]

I wouldn't call that messing up; Sure it's a bit cloudy, but it still looks much better than before. I'd be glad to own that machine as it is, it's pretty nice actually.

[@glow_n_show8968]

I love it! Looks cool tho..

[@Masked_Official]

I kind of like that my c-64 is completely yellow after 30 years.

[@Yoritomo3800]

For very yellowed plastics, I start by a sunbright, and then I do a retrobright next. That works perfectly.

[@Sayakas_Digital_Attic]

Thank you for the suggestions

[@nyny]

Well, now you have a case that you can really do something creative and fun with and not worry too much :)

[@b3bs]

I use 12% Hydrogen peroxide cream thined with an 8th water. I put it in a pump spray and wet the parts with it. The rest is done by the sun and the warmth. Just take care to keep the parts wet. My results are always perfect.

[@RestoreTechnique]

I've failed all my retro brightening attempts 😆 It always ruins the colours for me

[@elektron2kim666]

Think of it as a larger subject where others did it 50+ times before making any footage. My Psion pocket computers fall apart in some plastic and most of them don't have any flaws, whatsoever. Maybe I'm on a path to 3D printing, eventually.

[@spawnterror]

Hello. Your channel will become big if you continue what you are doing. Excellent content!

[@blackterminal]

I do not recommend bleaching old plastic but I like to see you trying things.

[@stephaneneron]

Just paint the commodore top with an air brush and make a beautiful pattern... :)

[@coreykirkpatrick4392]

The creme method is worst method of retro brighting. I recommend that you investigate vapor brighting, You have built a good starting point with your box, all you need to do is add a heating pad or a Sous Vide to heat a Hydrogen Peroxide bath (Needs to be warm enough to cause condensation 45-50c, and then put the items on a rack that sits above the liquid, It may take longer to brighten, but the results are so much better and more even. The Peroxide bath can also be re-used multiple times.

[@Sayakas_Digital_Attic]

It's interesting to learn about different methods and techniques for achieving better results. Vapor brighting sounds like a fascinating approach so I'll definitely look into it.🙂

[@Slay3rOne]

I haven't tried retrobright techniques yet, but I have a Iiyama Vision Master Pro 514 CRT monitor I got a few years ago that desperately needs it. It works wonderfully, but is entirely yellowed pretty evenly. Considering how big the parts that needs retrobright are, I'll probably go for the second method. Really curious to see how it will turn out.

[@michaeldemers2716]

I really love Keyboard Computers. I am thinking about getting the Orange Pi 800 and putting Android 10 on it. I already have Linux on my Raspberry Pi 400 and 4B's. I use my phone as a PC a lot so I should be familiar with everything and I already have Emulators and stuff paid for on my account. I see a Google tutorial on making it English. I figured why not check it out. Plus you can Emulate Windows on Android now and with something like Joy to Key for Windows some things may just work.

[@fuzzybad]

I recommend removing the cardboard RF shield found on some C64s, it was useful only for passing US FCC certification. It's unnecessary and restricts airflow in the case

[@Sayakas_Digital_Attic]

Thank you for the suggestion!

[@carpii]

I dont really like the salon creme way of retro-brighting, I tried it once but it ended up streaky because the UV light only penetrates the thinner amounts. Ive had some success with simply submerging it all in 12% Hydrogen Peroxide and blasting with UV light (in my case a hydroponics LED grow light, which isnt even pure UV). It did take longer (about 2 days), but came out out very uniform with no streaks.

[@mrkemblegilstrap]

Bro! 👍

[@4034miguel]

Is ti the Commodore 64 your main retro computer subject or are you going to work in other models and brands?

[@BigGRIGinc]

where are you from? also nice video crazy how much growth you've made with 3 videos lol

[@Sayakas_Digital_Attic]

Hi, I'm from Italy

[@BigGRIGinc]

@@Sayakas_Digital_Attic ohh, you have a very nice accent

[@tho9327]

How did you print the new label? 🧐

[@Sayakas_Digital_Attic]

silver laser printer paper

[@TheDrunkenPL]

I retrobrighted my C64 and the result lasted for only 2 years until my Commodore yellowed again :/

[@Sayakas_Digital_Attic]

Yes, unfortunately, it happens often

[@TheDrunkenPL]

@@Sayakas_Digital_Attic there was a time when I started to see those YT videos about peroxide plastic whitening even before I've ever heard the term "retrobrighting". I was so hyped and started to deyellow almost anything I could from my retrocollection. Right now it almost looks like I've never done it so, so much hype and work that we put to something that makes no sense in the end :)

[@randomboiiii69420]

Ok but spread them out that’s too much in one meal

[@tonypino2858]

zo 1 heb ik heel vroeger nog gehad

[@Sayakas_Digital_Attic]

Ah, begrijp ik! Ja, retrobright kan een beetje lastig zijn om te gebruiken op oude computers zoals de Commodore 64.

[@tonypino2858]

@@Sayakas_Digital_Attic Ja wat 1 Groot verschil met nu de Tijden met de Computers

[@LeeloolinkaStudios]

Love! Love! Love!!!!!! :) xoxo

[@sunflowers6612]

The volume on your videos could do with being a little louder 👍👍

[@TrFusion]

One of your parents is Japanese or just they liked the Japanese name?

[@Sayakas_Digital_Attic]

My parents liked Mazinga Z and Japanese culture, so they named me after one of the characters in that manga

[@michaelelsy2209]

The case looks silver to me.

[@Sayakas_Digital_Attic]

Yes, unfortunately, things didn't go as I had hoped :(

[@DarthVader1977]

Padme!

[@manishkandwal5702]

Do you know Georgia meloni?

[@budwilliams6590]

Ciao.

[@tracyr5594]

music makes it hard to hear you :(

[@DeathToTheDictators]

Cool video....the retrobright still looks pretty good, even if a little off colour! The 8-Bit Guy does a lot of really good retrobrightening of old electronics on his channel, maybe check out his channel for some tips

[@Sayakas_Digital_Attic]

Thank you ! I agree, his videos are very helpful and interesting

[@illsmackudown]

Looks fine

[@-Error99]

Why did you use demineralized water?

[@TronElec]

You're cute

[@tauruskd6688]

Post more videos.

[@Sayakas_Digital_Attic]

I would love to but I am currently studying software engineering which takes up a lot of my time

[@alberto3514]

👍