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A 2,300 year old cloak found in a bog inspired this project to replicate historic cloth. The Gerum Cloak is the oldest example of a houndstooth twill in the world and I wanted to see if I could replicate its Iron Age fabric. I handspun and handwove a Gotland wool blend to match both the diameter of the threads and the structure of the Gerum Cloak fabric. I also learned the fascinating story of this cloak and figured out how to weave a 2/2 twill pattern with a rigid heddle loom (details included). This project was a total adventure that I'm so excited to share with you!
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🔎🧐Details of the Houndstooth Pattern for 2/2 twill:
Across the warp I set up 2 threads in each eye and two threads in each slot totaling four threads of the same color, alternating across. Using G for grey and W for white with () indicating the threads held up by the heddles, the rigid heddle was set up this way: (GG)GG(WW)WW(GG)GG(WW)WW
The string heddles (SH) were set up this way:
SH1: Two threads, one of each color adjacent to each other in the warp, repeated across. G)GG(GW)WW(WG)GG(GW)WW(W
SH2: Two threads of the same color, not adjacent to the alternate color, repeated across.
G(GG)GW(WW)WG(GG)GW(WW)W
The pattern I used to create the 2/2 twill was Rigid Heddle UP, String Heddle 2, Rigid Heddle Down, String Heddle 1, repeat.
✨✨✨Interesting information about the Garum Cloak and other sources✨✨✨
🧶 General information about houndstooth pattern en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Houndst...
🧶 General information about the cloak g.co/arts/AEJ9HjY6gAGURL8d8
🧶 The details I used for reference from the historic Gerumsmanteln textile came from the Swedish History Museum, Historiska site: mis.historiska.se/mis/sok/fid....
🧶 A video (in Swedish) where you can see the full size of the cloak laid out. It is magnificent! Gerumsmanteln
🧶 A description of how the Gerumsmanteln was likely originally woven and why it wasn't on a warp weighted loom. historiska.se/upptack-histori...
🧶 Was the wearer of the cloak stabbed? historiska.se/upptack-histori...
📸 Images of the Gerumsmanteln are listed under creative commons and sourced from the Swedish History Museum, Historiska site: mis.historiska.se/mis/sok/fid....
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🐑 The wool I used in this project is the "Gotland Tweed Blend" from Paradise Fibers (Affiliate). They also carry spinning wheels, looms and weaving supplies. 👉www.paradisefibers.com/?rfsn=...
📧 If you are interested in private virtual spinning lessons, send an e-mail to evie@jillianeve.com
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