I've Got A Problem & I Need Your Help.

Many of our videos are comedic & satirical & not intended to cultivate antisocial or unlawful behavior. Thank you for supporting our Channel through the below affiliate links. No price increase for you but we may receive compensation.
-Amazon - our store - wranglermart.com
-Jk Boots - www.jkboots.com/wranglerstar
-Radios Made Easy - radiomadeeasy.com/product/wra...
-Amsoil - www.amsoil.com/c/products/1/?...
-GoDark Bags - godarkbags.com/#cody411
-Premier Body Armor - www.premierbodyarmor.com/wranglerstar
-Vertx - shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=228804...
-My Patriot Supply - www.preparewithwranglerstar.com
-Eden Grow Systems - edengrowsystems.com/wranglerstar
Become A Wranglerstar Member For Exclusive Content and Perks
/ @wranglerstar
SUBSCRIBE: bit.ly/2btWfQR and turn on notifications to get them
#Proho #wranglerstar

[@WayneTheSeine]

Apply copious amounts of Knock R Loose......rapidly tap the screw with a brass drift to help the oil down into the threads in the piston. Even better would be an air chisel rattled against lift head while spraying. Give it an hour or so soak. Then freeze the screw extension only, not the piston (dry ice/water submersion) be ready with a propane torch and carefully warm the piston.....it should then screw right in by hand. The point is to shrink the screw and expand the piston. If it requires more force then an option for holding the piston..... mic the piston then drill that size hole in a 2x4 ...then rip it through the center of the hole. Use that as a grip in the vise. Use a pipe wrench on the pad.

[@zkiff1990]

i was thinking the same thing use heat and cold

[@usdpaulp]

Weld a bolt to the top and hit it with an impact gun. It will get it moving.

[@maffiozo08]

I think thats the solution. Mount it the ssme way you did with the sljminium bsrs

[@wadeparker8263]

this is the way to go

[@VistarCreative]

Good call!

[@allanlawrence7867]

Was going to suggest spot welding a nut and using an impact to free it, scrolled to see if someone already thought of it, you win sir, this is the answer.

[@roadkillraker]

The top pad rotates too.

[@JerkRice]

That's what you get when you use Loctite on your bottle jack. You can never get it loose again.

[@joshuaharrington6094]

Transmission fluid mixed with some kerosene makes for the best penetrating oil. Let sit for a few days. Throw some more heat on those threds and give it a couple good smacks with a rubber mallet. Wrap the threds in a scrap piece of leather and crank on it with a pipe wrench. You need a better strap wrench to hold the cylinder. This is all just my opinion. Take with a grain of salt. Thanks again for all you do. If this works send me a pencil please! :)

[@deangousse2113]

I agree with the tools mentioned but will add slowly heat the piston then hit the threads with an upside down can of compressed air to try to make the threads shrink a bit.

[@joshuaharrington6094]

@@deangousse2113 Good idea on the air. A quick blast of cold would shrink the threads just enough that hopefully it will shock it loose.

[@n2cycles]

Atf and mineral spirits. Is what i use but the previous guy mentioned welding a nut on top. I concur that is the solution

[@rjtumble]

Well duh, ship it to "Hand Tool Rescue" :)

[@canaan5337]

That is the easy way

[@pole6840]

@Wranglerstar - what I would do 1st ... I would get piece of hardwood and drill hole a bit smaller then metal piece than cut in half and grip in the vice. Just drill across the grains. To fix thread I would soak in for a few days in penetrating oil but wrap some tape around to fill it up wit more oil, if that doesn't help I would hit hard vertically with hammer several times, if not I would heat up screw than cool it down rapidly then hit with hammer. If it brake louse heat it up again to get rid of moisture in thread itself or unscrew it an clean. By the way I'm really enjoying your channel, it is nice to watch someone having normal and happy life. Regards from UK.

[@neiallswheel]

Great idea also @Wranglerstar wrap a string tight around the inner thread, you that surface for grip. Good luck

[@RosaStringWorks]

Yep that's what I was going to say

[@matthewellisor5835]

+1 on the sharp rapping. I've used a rotary hammer (not too hard but those threads look like they can take it) years ago to acceptable success.

[@neiallswheel]

If all else fails Cody, @Wranglerstar the transition point between the smooth & the thread can be welded onto. Why not cut a thin (cycle ?) nut in half, and leave it on there, in case it gets stuck again. You'll only lose the thickness of the nut . Originally from UK, now in Bulgaria :)

[@allenhollenbach4692]

Do not heat jack

[@JollyPeanut]

Wrap an old tire inner tube around it then tighten it down in a vice, worked for me when i had same problem years ago..Good luck.

[@wobblysauce]

Or some leather.

[@eagle94haslanded]

yup, rubber. Any sort. Ive got half inch thick 4 inch wide/multiple feet long rubber that i would use the same way as the aluminum but it would get a much better grip.

[@msears101]

@@eagle94haslanded I use old ping pong paddle rubber. The little nubs help in the vice.

[@joelipinski7731]

Use 2 motorcycle fork tube holder type aluminum “ half pipe” clamps that are slightly smaller than the tube, fit into vice to hold. Then heat jack center screw with torch till almost cherry red, quickly quench with a block of paraffin wax, a few times might be needed, let cool off, and it will magically loosen up. Trick taught to me by older Mastertechnician.

[@helmighomestead2976]

Use leather and pipe wrench on both

[@jbomb889]

And run the jack cylinder all the way up, your applying all your pressure on the only part of the cylinder where the threads are, length equals leverage.

[@Clodknocker]

Jack up your truck with it and maybe the weight Will brake up or dislodge and apply a lily heat while under pressure

[@oregonone132]

You will need to extend the "rod" out to end. use your aluminum pads on the shaft. (you can't tighten a vise so hard it can damage the shaft unless your right on the end). Next get another set of aluminum pads on the threaded extension. Tighten hard enough to turn the screw as needed. (I'm a big time hydraulic cylinder repair business)

[@bobhaire3039]

Mr W-Try this on the jack. I used to work in a power plant around turbines and we found that the best way to loosen almost anything is to use impact in two directions, both in turning the screw and hitting it on the top with a stubby sledge, You may need to ask your wife to help. You hit fast and hard, It sets up a vibration, Try some Berrymans Chemtool and douse the threads, Try to put some emery cloth with an inner tube as close to the top seal on the piston and lock onto it with a curved shaped visegrip pliers. Try to raise the piston as high as you can, Do the same on the screw threads, Then working together one person rapidly hits the top of the screw while the other impacts with a ball peen hammer on the visegrip locked onto the threads, You may have to go back and forth counterclockwise and clockwise until you get the slightest motion where the penetrating oil and get in. If you mar the threads you can dress them with a file as you know, The machined surface can be polished but of course that is a critical area. If you can fashion a jig to fit onto the top of the screw you could also try a pneumatic impact wrench or an electric one. That vibration thing does wonders. A pipe wrench bites and holds, Put some copper on the threads and try the pipe wrench with a cheater extension AND USE IMPACT. Mess with it, I know you can do it._Bob

[@petewilliams5078]

Lifted all the way up and the Piston will get tension against the top of the envelope

[@becauseitscurrentyear8397]

I would clean the thread (like new) and then use vibration to get it to budge. Don't clamp the top nut clamp the thread but put something on it like wood first to prevent harming the thread. use natural rubber to hold the bottom.

[@royreynolds108]

After soaking the threads entering the piston for several more days(keep them wet), clamp the piston with a block of wood or aluminum with a hole the same size as the piston cut in half(needs to be the same length as the piston is out) in the vice and the two halves not touching just close. Do the same with the threads but leave about 3/4 to 1 inch from clamps to the piston for movement. If the clamps on the threads still slip wrap with aluminum or copper wire a couple of layers and use a pipe wrench and try whacking with a hammer for shock. The aluminum bars you used should have worked if there was a larger contact area. You have a oxy torch to heat the threads just above the piston but not to red.

[@a2zpreps658]

Mix 50/50 ATF and Acetone (keep shaken) and use that for the penetrating oil. Put it in the vise with the aluminum bars (aluminum v jaws would be better). Put a pipe wrench on the head and hit the end of the pipe wrench handle with a dead blow hammer. That hammer action is worth a lot. If that doesn't work put the jack on the floor and hit the head with a 2 lb hammer a few times and repeat.

[@edwarddranetz171]

wrap the threaded part with copper wire 2 to 3 layers put in bench press with v blocks to hold it and turn it with a big pipe wrench with a long handle

[@jaynaforsgren4755]

Speaking of jacks we haven’t seen Jack lately

[@christopherbutterfield2434]

You haven't been paying attention to Cody's videos. He mentioned that Mrs Wranglerstar and Jack haven't wanted to be in the videos.

[@jaynaforsgren4755]

Christopher butterfield thanks I missed that somehow. That’s to bad

[@planetwally]

Just don't end up tightening it more :D

[@lm464326]

I would recommend pulling the ram/piston out of the jack housing, and soaking it in diesel fuel overnight. (After removing the seal of course.) Then it will be much more maneuverable to put in a vise or just use the ram/piston, upside down, as a hammer to impact the threads loose. With the piston removed from the housing and the seal removed from the bottom of the piston you can comfortably apply more liberal amounts of heat as well. If repetitive cycles of soaking, heating, and impacting don't do the trick I don't know what would.

[@chrisadams3482]

For jack screw: Instead of using aluminum planks, try using two planks of pine to hold the cylinder in place. Make sure to degrease the cylinder as well, so the sticky pine planks will grab onto the cylinder as you turn in it. Maybe also grind down two sides of the end so your pliers will get a grip.

[@greghomestead8366]

I absolutely love these videos, I'm going to be retiring December 31st and the 1st thing I'm gonna do is go through my shop and straight it up like you're doing thanks for the encouragement Have a Jesus filled day Greg in Michigan

[@greghomestead8366]

@@buzzman7138 Thank you 🙂

[@kennycoye3907]

U better be working on your shop Greg! Good deal on retiring! I work 2 weeks on and 2 off, I kinda do the same when home! Lol

[@james5426]

How many jacks could jack jack if jack could jack jacks🙃

[@sglacf]

8

[@pappas4423]

Sounds jacked up too me...lol

[@PaulsMechanics]

Insert inappropriate joke about Jack jacking

[@geedubb2005]

Set the jack on concrete, take a ten pound sledge and give it a good lick on top. Saw that screw extension off about 1” below the top. Weld a half inch drive socket on. Take your impact and let it do the work. It won’t take much to hold the chromed piston if you use the impact. When you get it freed up, cut the sacrificial socket off and weld the top back on. Might need some heat again.

[@Mechman0925]

Try this. Heat the piston up, not very hot but enough to get the lower portion hot. Cool the upper part down (wet rag) so the majority of the heat is at the base of the piston. Stand the bottle upright and apply penetrating oil on the threads all through the cooling process. Clamp back in your vice, but clamp down as low as possible, even jack up higher if possible to get a purchase as low as possible, down below the threaded portion of the piston. Use a pipe wrench and a breaker bar to loosen up. Yes you will probably damage the upper part of the screw, but can be cleaned up.

[@mitchdenner9743]

Tack weld a large bolt to the top piece and hit it with an impact to crack it loose

[@adamlowe2935]

Brake fluid works a treat

[@mitchdenner9743]

@Luke Grandgenett okay I thought I seen that turning while he was trying with the pump pliers you're right I'm wrong so the threaded part has to be gripped somehow

[@timdgsr]

Luke, actually an impact hitting it can still loosen it even though the cylinder spins free of the jack. Not guaranteed, but possible.

[@acehartless6075]

@@timdgsr I agree

[@acehartless6075]

That was what I was thinking too. And wrap some black tape around end cylinder ( where threads go in) to make a resivoir for some knock er looose!

[@bonsaichip]

Soak the whole thing in kerosene for a couple of days

[@Obi1kenobi10]

Try Oil of Wintergreen. I use it on all sorts of rusted bolts. (Side note: helps ease sore muscles) add a few DROPS on the threads and let it sit for a bit. Then tap the top with a B.F.H.

[@todroth5682]

Mix acetone and automatic transmission fluid 50-50 best rust buster you can make or buy spray let it sit and it will come loose

[@indianaoutdoors4379]

Try using Kroil pentrating oil on the jack, if thst failes try using I believe its a mix of atf and acetone is supposed to work wonders. Use a deadblow to strike from the top down to help break the rust then wrap the cylinder with a piece of leather and clamp tightly in the vise. Use a pipe wrench to try and screw the extension in and out. Once free just clean the threads up with a hand file. Rust belt mechanics know how to deal with rust.

[@krisymcilroy2380]

Shock it with a hammer works on mine couple hits should just free it up

[@kennethlevan9370]

The aluminum stock protects your shaft, but it provided no friction. I keep scraps of 3/16 inch rubber matting from some high quality truck mud flaps. One long piece 3" X 6" will protect the smooth shaft from the jaws of your vice. Another piece will protect the threaded inside shaft from your pipe wrench, which would be my recommended tool. Soak jack stem in diesel first as others have recommended.

[@garrysmith4721]

Take a brass or even a lead mallet is better, penetrating fluid and heat. Spray the penetrating fluid on the threads and let it sit for a minute. Heat up the outside of the piston and where the threads enter the piston for a few minutes. Then take the mallet and smack the top of the jack and the outside of the piston and see if that will work.

[@greenhatparts6552]

Take a 4 by 4, drill a hole in the center the same diameter as the ram, Then split the block across the hole. they you can clamp the ram in the vise and it will hold it. bike frame building trick that cheap way of making tubing blocks.

[@kaboom362]

Use pipe wrenches and rags and don't try to thread it back in thread it out

[@Shikamaru6900]

If you give it a bath in penetrating oil, hang it upside down and dip it in up to the green base on top of the jack where the cylinder goes in so that it covers as much of the thread as it soaks in and upward or create a seal on the cylinder and put a funnel top on it so it uses less penetrating oil soak for a few days. then use an oil wrench on the the cylinder and the vise grips on the threads with the belt wrench so that the wrench doesn’t ruin the threads.

[@eric41466]

use an air chisel with a hammer tip. Hammer down on the top of the screw the vibration may loosen the screw.

[@TopHatButcher]

Does a settlement need my help?

[@markeone]

If it moves and shouldn't, duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, WD40

[@garrysmith4721]

Wd40 isnt a penetrating fluid. Its a water repellent

[@scubamech707]

Gotta go PB blaster.

[@schmojo33]

@@garrysmith4721 It astonishes me how many people don't understand the use of WD40.

[@NTheGR-qx3cc]

Jack fix- find a close-fitting steel/iron pipe to fit over the hydraulic piston, tack weld it in a couple spots at the top edge of the piston, not touching the screw. Clamp onto the welded pipe, crank on the screw. Maybe even grind a small groove into the top of the screw and use a hammer/chisel to try the drive/turn the screw back in.

[@alanmumford8806]

On thinking about the jack, several other commenters have suggested the bored and split wooden vice jaws, maybe lined with leather to avoid localised damage, for the cylinder. That seems sensible. Then, as others have said, I would probably try a leather wrap and a locked pipe grip (tie-wraps may be useful here) on the thread, but with a decent, suspended weight to apply a steady torque. Then, a brass rod or similar in a hammer drill applied end-on, to try and shake it loose. It seems to me that moderate torque plus many small impacts could work.

[@bigmansolutions7888]

Penetrating oil "areokroil" if you have it and try a air hammer on the top to jar the rust loose just keep hammering on it hopefully it will jar loose

[@davyjones232]

IT really works guys

[@TopHatButcher]

Preston Garvey?

[@bigguns45acp]

Here is what we do to remove gun barrels. First spray the shaft with penetrating oil, then a shot of brake clean, alternate a few times between the two. Use a rag to prevent the brake clean from getting on the seals. The brake clean will cut the penetrating oil and allow it to go in deeper. Next get a square block of wood, preferably hardwood, roughly 2-3 times the diameter of the chrome shaft and about 4" long. Now bore a dead center hole the length of the wood the same size as the shaft. Now cut it in half lengthwise. Sand it on you belt sander so that when you fit it around the shaft there is about 1/8"-1/4" gap between them. Cut two pieces of that aluminum to fit on the outside flats of the blocks. You now have a set of vise blocks custom fit to your jack. To avoid the top of the screw from turning, you might have to weld it solid. If you have access to a hydraulic press, that will give you a more positive gripping force over the vise. If you need additional grip around the shaft add some 0000 steel wool. It will add grip without damaging the shaft. Hope this helps.

[@ColeAviation]

Spray it with PB blaster and let it sit for a couple of days then it should turn.

[@dustinsawyer6017]

Make sure to grease it after you get it moving as well.

[@joolwing]

Use two heat guns on both sides of the cylinder.....oh....that’s right.....we melted them.

[@clay10fd13]

Ralph 😂😂😂

[@adaaglidden]

Along with the heat guns spray pb blast on it as it cools and it will suck it into the threads

[@firnatine529]

😂😂😂

[@ben_the_cat_guy]

Try an ultrasonic cleaner

[@trongod2000]

How do we view "stories" Don't see the link or button

[@brandonolson6111]

2 36in pipe wrenches, grab the hex top of the jack body, and one on the bottom of the jack, take the top off the body, remove the ram, soak it in vinegar for a week and then put it in the vise with some aluminum angle on either side, like so, , percussive maintenance and that 36in pipe wrench and she'll come on. The vinegar will strip it to bare metal (mill scale and all) so heat it up to 400-500, drop it in a bucket of oil to keep it from rusting.

[@tbone1778]

Put it in some evapo-rust

[@joshuaharrington6094]

I restore Coleman lanterns as a hobby and I love Evaporust! It works great and really cuts down on the elbow grease. WD-40 makes the same stuff as Evaporust. Just FYI if you're in a store that doesn't carry Evapo. Look for the WD-40 version.

[@tyler755]

Can you weld a bar to the foot so you can turn it? Weld across the outer ring so you have two handles across the top and just grind it off when you're done twisting.

[@stevecobratei8538]

Soak the threaded end in evap o rust for 2 days then open the valve, compress the piston all the way down then hit the purch with a bfh (keep valve open, used 2 - 3 lb hammer. One or two good hit will do it.

[@tacocin]

Worked in a hydraulic shop for 26 years and repaired hundreds of bottle jacks. You're on the right track. However, I wouldn't clamp that vise so close to the end of the piston. That can possibly squeeze the piston rod even tighter onto the screw extension. Jack the piston out further and grab onto it further away from the threaded extension. Some commentators have good ideas but I'd try this easy method before I started welding nuts and using an impact wrench. Not sure what brand of penetrating oil you used but my experience has proven that "Liquid Wrench" is dang hard to beat.

[@pdzh]

Have you considered vibration to loosen up the rust?

[@england713]

For $4.99 I will tell ya how to quickly loosen it up, stop and think a minute................

[@anthony1986ab]

Soak it in evaporust

[@ImageOnIt]

You could try wrapping the threads with a old bike innertube, to get purchase with vice grips. To clear the rust you could use electrolysis. Flip it upside down, immerse it in a container tall enough to get the rust portion into a electrolyte solution (mix of water, baking soda and non iodized salt) attach the negative connector of a car battery charger to the jack and the positive connector to a piece of rebar or better yet carbon steel that is also in the container but not touching the jack. Don't let the actual positive battery lead touch the solution just whatever you've attached it to should be in the solution. You can hold it the side of the container with a sliding clamp or whatever. Power up the charger and let it sit for 1-2 hours and it'll remove the oxidization (rust).

[@williamshaffer2617]

Soak with peppermint oil, works amazing

[@MichaelEugeneShaner]

What about Pumpkin Spice? :)

[@thehomeplatespecial597]

William Shaffer what carrier oil? is there a place that sells pure 100% oil from peppermint plant?

[@williamshaffer2617]

@@thehomeplatespecial597 got mine at wallmart

[@Theexsquaddie.]

Evaporust bath

[@cryomancer20x68]

Better would be straight up phosphoric acid. It only attacks rust and is the active ingredient in that kind of stuff. However, if you buy it by itself it is at a much much higher concentration and will work much faster. Don't buy into a middle man when you can go straight to what is doing the work.

[@flat6targa]

Beat me to it great stuff. My dad just freed up a steam engine he bought with it. He also used penatrol 90 from Schaefer oil to free up a cast iron distributor that was all rusted solid from being outside for decades.

[@karlpokorny7130]

Thats what coke cola is made with add sugar

[@karlpokorny7130]

Thats what coke cola is made with and sugar

[@ColeAviation]

Man y’all are like waiting on him to hit upload. 🤣👍🏼

[@edrader]

like you aint :^)

[@ColeAviation]

ed rader - NO SIR. I was already on his channel. 😁👍🏼

[@kfouts2]

I think you just figured out your next video! Restoring a hydraulic bottle jack! I would use Deep Creep by Seafoam and soak it for a day or two. It is the best penetrating oil I have ever used. Hit it with some heat and use two pipe wrenches. Don’t get a huge bite on the piston, maybe half an inch. If it scores the chrome simply keep it from dropping down that last half inch. If that does not work have a contest and send it to a subscriber. 🙂

[@tonyanderson191]

The bottle jack.have you tried spraying it down with WD-40 first? Letting it sit overnight? Or have you tried heating it up with a torch first?

[@elliottmacintyre4112]

Do you need memes?

[@Arthur-hw1yj]

“These USA made jacks will last several lifetimes” *show cases a broken US jack* Lol 😃

[@canaan5337]

It obviously wasn't properly cared for maintained and stored with grease on it doesn't matter how well made something is if it's not properly taken care of.

[@andrewflickinger6240]

Soak it in 50 50 atf acetone mix and give it a good hard whack straight down to break the rust bond.

[@anthonypirrello2473]

Without reading all 1,186 comments, I would suggest removing the gland nut ( large nut on top of Jack body as well as removing the lift/ lower valve - this would relieve any possible pressure or stuck mechanisms inside. Use heat if necessary- they sell jack rebuilt kits which contain o- rings.

[@stephenlivingston7889]

Try diping it in a 50/50 acetone and trans fluid mixture up to the point of the seal while in an ultrasonic cleaner

[@phylismaddox4880]

Jack suggestion: as last resort, take the whole thing apart, confirm the rust and submerge the frozen part in rust remover (this is a technique the gentleman over at Hand Tool Rescue uses). Wedges: they will be more visible and convenient hung up rather than laid out. Simple straps nailed to the shelving legs will provide 'pockets' to wedge them in.

[@deanmurray5231]

I would use PB Blaster Penetrating oi at the base of the threads -let set a couple minutes take a piece of wood about 2x2 should work and rap the threads all around the screw multiple times not crazy but steady raps repeat Penetrating oi and try again if needed and if it hasn't freed up yet you could load it ( such as sit your car on it ) to relieve the tension freeze or rap the top pretty good downward one of these will work

[@spellmadam2947]

Lubricate screw threads first. Tack weld 5/8 nut on top of the screw then use an impact air wrench to break loose. This is one of my kitchen recipes.

[@mitchwright6948]

Soak the top in Evapo-rust??

[@michaelhoward1900]

Soak the whole thing in Evapo Rust. Least chance of damaging the tool. Once you get it apart, just clean it out, new seals and lube. All this talk of "Heat, Hit and Cut" is making me nervous.

[@marcusyoung9555]

I used to build suspension dampers (shocks as they call them in the US) we used to grip the rods by getting a block of aluminium, drilling a hole slightly smaller than the size of the rod, maybe 1/8" smaller, then cutting it in half. When that's in a vice, should be able to grip fine. As for the gripping threads, use mole grips (vice grips) with something to protect it, maybe leather. Worst case, you can file any small damage out of the threads anyway.

[@terryspooner128]

If you can get the end of the ACME screw off you might be able to put some sort of hex nut on. Then you an Impact wrench to breake the ACME screw loos. Vibration and penetrating oil is the key. VIBRATION ON RUST. Best I can suggest short of disassembling the cylinder.

[@ColeAviation]

Those are the best jacks!! I got all of my great uncles and his dads. Probably 100 years old.

[@LogiForce86]

For grip on that smooth bore try to wrap something of rubber around it. Like an old inner tube of a bicycle tire for example.

[@michaelscansaroli9788]

good penetrating oil (NOT WD-40), allow to soak for a while, I use and like Kroil, always works for me. Apply cold to the threaded part. dry ice and alcohol. Shock the part with a hammer etc and unscrew. Heat will expand the threaded rod and worsen the problem. Good luck, let us know how it works

[@BethGrantDeRoos]

There are three types of jack. Floor, bottle and son (smiling) The last one is the BEST one!

[@adrielrowley]

How about last resort pulling apart and isolating so heat plus penetrant can be applied?

[@jakob6355]

The only thing that is going to work is to take the cylinder out, remove the o-rings, and then heat it up as hot as you can without deforming it.

[@matthewezell5378]

Use a 1:1 mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. It's the best penetrating oil you'll ever use. It puts PB Blaster or any other penetrating oil to shame.

[@danquirke443]

It's a 10 ton jack. Put it on a hard surface and whack down on it with a small sledge. And as others have suggested, a diesel bath for a few days does wonders.

[@wlarue]

You are using the flat jaws to try to grip the cylinder; this gives you a tangential point of contact on each side. Have you tried to use the curved jaws below the flat jaws (using protection for the cylinder) to increase the contact area with the cylinder? How about welding a flat surface onto the screw area so that it can be gripped and then broken off/ground down after things break free?

[@JusBidniss]

Instead of soft/slick aluminum bars, put something "grippy" between the piston and the vise jaws, like rubber or leather. Then, get one of those Freon can microdusters (such as for cleaning keyboards, etc.) and hold it upside down so it squirts liquid (upright it squirts gas). Coat the threaded part only with the freezing liquid, back and forth for several passes. This will cause the metal of the threaded part to contract and help it break free of the rust, similar to heating the piston, which you should not do in this application, as it would change the temper of the metal. Then grab it with a long-handled pipe wrench for grip, and tighten it back down. Be careful to not freeze it too much, or the torque from the pipe wrench could snap it. If you are afraid of this, an alternate method would be to invert the jack in an ice-bath (plain ice water), the threaded part only, for an hour or so. Good luck!

[@borderbrat]

We use heavy rubber in the vice to grip on motor stators to prevent damage when torquing on the shaft

[@dougtexas]

Extend the jack all the way out, oil the seal and threads. Open your valve, use an air hammer and push in cylinder to bottom out. Leave valve open and continue to hammer. Running it all the way out will put pressure on the seal and can help break loose the threads. Acid will work, but will also screw up the seals if it is an older jack.

[@Kbtoys-gy3ed]

High frequency sound/vibrations.

[@JasonCarmichael]

My trailer tongue support is about 8" thick of tree stump, about 12" diameter. It's really rather neat looking, opposed to a square piece of machined cut thing.

[@andrewstoll4548]

I was thinking wrapping the shaft part in so rubber from an old tire that is still pretty thick. Then you could really hold that steady in a vise. Then you would be able to use a large pipe or strap wrench on the main body of the jack.

[@gregorythomas333]

Use electrolysis for the rust removal...suspend upside-down so only the top section is in the fluid. Then use thick rubber (an old inner tube folded over can work) in the vice instead of aluminum. Also use rubber in the grips on the screw portion itself to turn it. Once "broken" it should continue on down easily.

[@outboard2006]

use a wet rag to control the heat, ie wrap it around the shaft near the hydraulic cylinder, pour the heat into the threaded part that is seized.

[@Maptologist]

Perhaps find a suitable chuck and attach it to an impact driver type device to try and knock it loose. A shaft collar cut in half could grip the threads to get around the spinning top.

[@jonathonmiller6320]

Make your grabby things grippier with scraps of bicycle inner tube, make a slingshot with what’s left over. Make sure the surfaces are perfectly dry and clean, maybe even add a little heat to the rubber with a hair dryer or heat gun.

[@Jamkevcr88]

Try using thick leather for padding in the vise and on the channel locks the leather will give a good bite and won’t mar the metal

[@dbrownjr.1410]

I have a 20 ton bottle jack with the same problem. I screwed it out to jack up the back of a tractor. It was stuck. I first soaked it with marvel mystery oil. Didn't work I use soft brass brush to clean the threads. Then I used a combination of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. Let it set. It broke loose. With this trick I made. If u happen to have a pipe the size of that cylinder. Cut it in half long ways to place on each side of the cylinder. Close that in the vise. If it slips, use leather to grip. Then by using the leather belt to tighten use a pipe wrench and grab and break it loose. Boom!

[@shaw4020]

What about rapping ruber iner tube around the ram the use the strap also warm the thread and let it cool a few times

[@jackduffy1817]

Bottle Jack, Seezed, Buttress thread lift pin. Use a chain-wrench. Choose suitable size components to make one, 10" 12" inches of heavy duty motor bike drive chain, Then 14" to 18" inches of Steele rod, 7/8" or 1" inch diameter, Fit and fabricate, Then weld chain to Steele rod. At least 2" inches of chain welded to Steele rod, You may have to make two of these wrenches, Set up Jack in a bench vice. Set one wrench on the internal threaded plunger, And the 2nd on the threaded extension pin, You will need two pieces of pipe 3' or 4' feet long to fit the wrenches, For maximum leverage, You will now need one woman & a boy on one wrench and you on the other, Be prepaid to aply maximum leverage. You can buy chain wrenches. But you will need two. P.S. do not use cold rolled, mild steel rod to make the wrenches, Be prepared to sacrifice a prybar, Crow-bar. Do not use the vice to to hold the internal threaded Jack plunger, You will be locking the threads. If there was an easier way, I would have heard about it. Mine MILL, Saw MILL, Pulp MILL, Chemical plants. You have not used excesiv heat so you know what you are up against. Wranglestar, The bottle Jake has been abused, If you did get the threaded part out, The Jack is not going to work again, I would write it off, And give it an, N.F.G.

[@wighteboyclarkst]

Try an upside down air duster to cool the threads. Which should shrink it slightly and hopefully help break that loose

[@derweibhai]

Air chisel on the top in the direction you need to lower it, or do the welded nut/impact method. Either should work, both will mess up the pad at the top of the jack. Freeze off might help as well, that wont hurt seals.

[@barnabyg6808]

Wranglerstar, using my chemistry knowledge here, if you add an acid to a metal hydroxide (rust is iron oxide), you get a salt plus water, you should be able to just wipe it away, however I would try every other method of wd40, degreaser etc before this as it may cause damage to other parts of the jack, I do not want to be responsible for potentially ruining your jack! :)

[@cabwaldo]

First. Soak the whole top end in penetrating oil. If a nut on top with an impact doesn’t work ( I think it’s more likely to just spin the rod. If you spin it too much the rod might start to wear on those seals) then pull the cylinder apart (weld the base if you need to) and weld a nut on the other end if there’s no packing nut. The rod might be hardened steel so that might not work either. If you do resort to that, I would want a machinist to square up the face of the rod again before you reinstall. A grinder won’t keep it true, so if you put weight on it with the rod bottomed out it won’t sit perfectly flat.

[@martinmoore9476]

Cody, I've been a heavy duty diesel mechanic for 26 years and the best way I have found to get rusted bolts and nuts off such as the exhaust manifold and turbo without using heat is to smack the bolt head or nut three times (seems to be the magic number). From the looks of that jack I would use probably use a 40 ounce hammer, minimum, and hit it right on the swivel pad. A screw that size you're going to have to hit it quite hard. If that doesn't do it, use Kroil and wait 15 minutes then smack it again. The most important part is to pray first. Jesus said some things require much prayer.

[@pjhitchcock]

Copper vice pads gives better grip on the smooth cylinder.