I've Made a Huge Mistake | Common Woodworking Mistake

[@Baerenbruder87]

Thank you very much for the appreciative mention. Your solution is very thoroughly thought out and should serve you well. Your reaction to (my) critizism was outstandingly professional. It must be a pleasure to work with you.All the best to you, Alex

[@dkbuilds]

Thank you (again) for the critique Baeren! Thanks to your comment my countertop will last many more years. All the best to you as well!

[@pemtax557]

I admit, I didn't' see the original video on this subject and just happened upon this update. It takes a stand-up individual to own up their errors and seek to correct them as quickly and efficiently as possible. Hat's off to someone that deserves the positive response I see here for the true integrity of someone wanting to pass along knowledge and experience that the woodworking community can benefit from ... Cheers!!

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks so much Dave! I appreciate the recognition. Cheers!

[@bdm1000]

I don't blame people for making mistakes, I just blame them for refusing to fix them. You succeed. Great job and it looks great! Thank you for sharing. I think I learned better this way than if someone made a video and didn't really home on on the points/mistakes that can be made.

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks so much F&B! I'm so glad this was useful for you!

[@billparrish4385]

When I found the video on cleaning saw blades instead if immediately sharpening, I liked and commented. When I saw this one where you admit a mistake, and even made it right with people who had bought the plans, I subscribed. Gotta take care of content creators who deal that honestly!

[@dkbuilds]

That's awesome Bill, thank you so much for subscribing. I'm honored to have you as a viewer. I hope you have a great day!

[@colette2612]

Good job. We need more people like you in the world.... Decent people fix their mistakes... you are quite decent.

[@dkbuilds]

Thank you for the kind, encouraging words Coleta!

[@richgianacakos2652]

Love your willingness to be transparent and video to correct your original video. Learning from mistakes is important for all of us! You demonstrating leadership is why I'm subscribing to this channel today! Thank you!

[@dkbuilds]

Thank you so much Rich! Welcome to my channel, I am glad to have you!

[@blan514]

Was going to write that similar comment . But this one is better phrased 🙂👍

[@kings5223]

That guy left a great comment that was both civil and helpful. Hats off to both of you.

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks Kevin!

[@indycustommade3568]

Great job admitting the oversight and showing your solution. Not very many people would make an extra video explaining that.

[@dkbuilds]

Thank you Indy, I appreciate it!

[@Gotmovezlikejagga]

Good on you for having the character to show your mistake and the skill and commitment to wood working to fix it. Beautiful island!

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks so much Kevin!!

[@stephenmcgeown]

Good on you for (a) listening to feedback and taking it constructively, (b) owning your mistake and (c) taking the time to tell everyone how you went about fixing it. Top class guy!

[@dkbuilds]

Thank you for the appreciation Stephen. You rock!

[@samspade4634]

My friend. Do not feel bad because 100% of us that have made something from wood has made a mistake along the way. (If they say they haven't I'm sure it's a lie). Funny story I was helping frame a house and with my hearing problem some numbers sound the same (like 55 and 65). Sometimes I would get some funny looks or an angry shout out, but all was fixable and didn't hurt the end product. Relax and thanks for the teachable moment. Your island looks great and thank you so much for sharing.

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks for the encouragement, Sam! Love the story. Thanks for watching!

[@tsaltyginger]

Great job dk builds! Either way you would have been fine. I've been doing woodworking and grew up doing it with my dad and in the 35 yrs he's never had issues. But good on you for taking feedback and addressing the "issue."

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks Thomas!

[@dukeengine1339]

I appreciate you seriously doing this correction. Everybody started from the beginning with the basics and everybody made mistakes. There's always something to learn from anybody. Today for the first time I faced the problem of glueing an oily wood in a marquetry for a box lid... Lots of tries now time will tell me if I have succeeded. Thanks again, good job! 🌞🙏🏻

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks so much Duke. I'm always trying to learn and improve. Let me know how that marquetry turns out!

[@eternalfizzer]

Thank you so much for your detailed tutorial on one of the oft-overlooked characteristics of wood. I'm about to try my own version of a kitchen island and I hadn't thought of that -- thanks for showing the solution!

[@dkbuilds]

Thank you for watching eternal, I'm glad the video was useful to you. Good luck on your island!

[@mattg6262]

Your island is beautiful DK. Thanks for the reminder too. You've come a long ways since TWW days! So cool to see.

[@dkbuilds]

Thank you Matt! And thanks for following my journey!

[@andreabussotti8116]

Very nice solutions for the wood movements...

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks so much Andrea!

[@pinguinoer3971]

My personal projects have been small and pretty much plywood based. This video is a good reminder of what me and other amateur wood workers need to consider in order to advance. Thanks for the learning opportunity!

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks so much pinguinoer! Aim high and you will improve with every project!

[@dkbuilds]

💪

[@zandemen]

I actually knew about this, but on the job I'm working on right now I've made the same mistake. I know what I'll be doing this morning, thanks for the reminder. Oh, I don't need to remove my countertop, just a few screws on one side.

[@dkbuilds]

Awesome Macks, happy to help!

[@DonsWoodies]

Elegant solution. You are a brave man to lean on that countertop like you did. It showed, however, that it's built like a tank.

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks so much Don! Hope you're doing well!

[@ThatNiceDutchGuy]

Anyone can make a mistake. It only becomes a problem when you don't take the responsibility to acknowledge the problem and offer a solution. By even retroactively correcting your mistake, you are doing a very good job! Bravo.

[@dkbuilds]

Thank you for the kind words of encouragement Wouter. I appreciate it!

[@MarcosElMalo2]

That’s cool that you admit and correct your mistakes. Turning the screw holes into slots was a good idea. The one thing I don’t like about your design is the lack of overhang by the drawers. Countertop spills are going to go into the drawers even if the drawers are flush.

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks Marcos! Agreed about the drawer overhang issue, maybe I'll relocate the top an inch or two farther forwards.

[@Srv02]

Criticism with positive intentions are golden and you handled the situation as every professional should. The thing what you can also be proud of, is that you built this countertop to last, but while maintaining the modularity to fix errors. I probably would’ve used wood glue everywhere. 😬

[@workbootsandlashes38]

🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks for the kind words Srv! I've made the wood glue mistake before... live and learn 😂

[@neilphillips3193]

Integrity move, Classy AF. Keep up the great work!

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks Neil!

[@choimdachoim9491]

I recommend the counter overhang the cabinet face by an inch or so which prevents spills from causing vertical streaks on the face and requiring more clean-up effort than just cleaning a spill that lands on the floor. Plus, some streaks leave a paler paint-color when cleaned off the face.

[@dkbuilds]

Very good recommendation Choim! I may reposition the countertop slightly.

[@mattelias721]

This is awesome content, and I wish other YT woodworkers/builders would do similar things, particularly AFTER the whole project is complete - as you did. Great fix.

[@dkbuilds]

Thank you Matt! I appreciate the support!

[@BostLabs]

I'm just getting back into woodworking, after a very long absence, and I hadn't even considered that. I may have to alter my first little project a bit. Thanks for showing me how to fix it. 👍

[@dkbuilds]

Awesome, glad to help RedShirt! Good luck on your fix!

[@MrWaldorfian]

I wish more youtubers would show appreciation for commenters who are trying to improve your videos. Many youtubers seem to jeer or belittle commenters trying to help.

[@dkbuilds]

I agree, John!

[@jammin60psd]

Man, the only time I really worry about expansion or contraction in wood is if I am using large width boards and the piece is going to see major humidity swings. The other thing to combat this is to put finish on all sides of the project. In modern climate controlled houses the humidity swing seasonally is minimal with a properly finished work piece. And with all the variations in grain direction of a "butcher block" top I doubt it would have ever been an issue. It's seems to me that internet woodworkers always jump on the "it's gonna explode, you didn't take account into expansion of wood!!!" Just like to troll comment. Good looking island project!!

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks for sharing EQC!

[@antronchestertonian9465]

Custom building is 10-20% error correction (at least). Good to see the recovery process.

[@dkbuilds]

Agreed. Thanks for watching Antron!

[@drooplug]

I recommend creating an overhang on the door side of your island. Any liquid that runs over the edge will run down the face of your cabinets and Into them. Even when cleaning up it's a problem. I have a similar situation in my poorly installed kitchen.

[@dkbuilds]

Great tip thanks Andrew! Very good point.

[@digimikek]

so your human! we've all made this mistake at some point in our life. thanks for the update

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks for the support digi!

[@jmad318]

This will allow the countertop to expand and contract independent of the cabinet, but it's the overhang on the drawer side that will move. Seems like a better option would be allowing the larger overhang the move because it will be far less noticeable than the tops of your drawer faces becoming exposed.

[@dkbuilds]

Good tip, thanks J!

[@andyxox4168]

How many inches are you expecting it to move?

[@jmad318]

@@andyxox4168 depending on humidity and the moisture content of the wood it could easily shrink by a half an inch. It doesn't look like there is much overhang past the drawers so it could be a problem

[@dfedx1726]

Thank you for the correction. I am an advocate woodworker and you did the right improvements.

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks D, I appreciate your comment!

[@fredpierce6097]

At first, I didn’t get why any reinforcement was required at all but then I saw it was about that overhang. Got it! ….. and by the way, we all forgive your initial error! An easy mistake to make and shows up often in antique furniture…..😂 😊

[@dkbuilds]

Haha thanks Fred. It seems I'll always make mistakes no matter how much experience I gain!

[@SatchmoBronson]

Great video!

[@dkbuilds]

Thank you Sathcmo!!

[@k.cashman427]

I commend you for explaining your mistake. Subscribed!

[@dkbuilds]

Thank you! And welcome to the channel!

[@mikeyb7263]

I see another potential issue. By NEC requirement, the center of the duplex receptacle can be no more than 12 " from the TOP of the countertop. Based on appearance in the thumbnail, it looks considerably lower than that. It can sometimes be difficult to accommodate that requirement, but I can tell you from experience that an electrical inspector won't budge on this one. Since you're doing this in an existing home that is not subject to electrical inspection, you're probably okay, but it could become an issue if you sell the house. For anyone else putting in a stationary kitchen island: it must have 1 or more outlets (1 for the first 9 sq ft, 1 for the next 18 sq ft, and for each 9 sq ft above 27 sq feet.) Also - no outlet can be placed under an overhang of 6" or more.)

[@dkbuilds]

Thank you for the comment Mike! I was unaware of the 12" rule, very good to know! Out of curiosity I just measured and 12" below the top of the countertop lands right in between the two outlets (where the GFCI reset buttons are). Would that pass inspection? Or, does the entire receptacle have to be above the 12" line? Thanks again for sharing your knowledge!

[@mikeyb7263]

@@dkbuilds You're fine then. It is the center that must be no more 12". The reason for requiring outlets on an island or peninsula is to prevent accidents. Most small appliances have cords that are only 18" long. If you run an extension cord from a wall, the connected appliance can be pulled off by a pet or small child running into the cord. Many scaldings have happened this way. I'm glad yours is fine. It's beautiful work BTW.

[@dkbuilds]

@@mikeyb7263 Thanks for the follow up lesson Mike! Have a wonderful day

[@ckbakes]

Great fix!

[@graciouscompetentdwarfrabbit]

Ok, please, once you have children, please make him/her channel named "bk babbles" (b for baby and babbles because it's the first and only verb with a b that I can think of rn and associate with a baby). I beg you. Gotta build the letterk bverb empire.

[@ckbakes]

@@graciouscompetentdwarfrabbit I'm 100% doing this. 👑👑👑

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks CK!

[@MCsCreations]

Awesome work, dude! 😃 And, well... As an old and wise man once said... Shit happens. 😬 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks MC! Stay safe yourself!

[@Anthany0916]

Well, way to build a nice island, but also, way to accept your mistake and wrong doin but also to own it. That takes a lot now a days to see that. So definitely a thumbs up, and a subscribe from me! We all make mistakes,but not all own em. Keep up the nice work!! Also, thank you for sharing too! I'm gonna have to check out your channel for sure!

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks Anthany, I appreciate the encouragement and thumbs up. Welcome to my channel!!

[@Anthany0916]

@@dkbuilds thank you! And no problem, you deserve it!

[@dutchyfresh1]

I’ve always learned through my failures. For me it’s the best way to learn. I wouldn’t call your countertop a failure, but a correction.

[@dkbuilds]

Good point Dutchy, thanks!

[@azpcox]

I would love to see how much this countertop expands and contracts with time. Can you take some good measurements weekly? I doubt it’ll be much at all with modern heating/cooling. Better safe than sorry though.

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks azpcox! That's an interesting idea. I will mark with a pencil where the screws are now and see where they end up later. I wouldn't expect any change week to week but if I compare mid summer to mid winter I wouldn't be surprised if it was an 1/8th or a 1/4 inch.

[@spayced]

It may take a year to see anything. And not ever season has the same humidity so some seasons may be worse than others.

[@aaronellingsen5404]

25 year custom cabinet maker and professional woodworker here. Most people overthink and overbuild for the potential of wood movement. It's not some brute destructive force waiting to wreck your project 6 months down the road. Id wager heavily that you would have been just fine if you left how it was originally. Just a few screws are all that is needed to hold that top to your island. Fasten a couple firmly near the front side of the island all within the same row of wood and 2 in slotted holes or some other manner which will allow the wood to move near the back side. If the front is fixed firmly, any movement will happen towards the overhang side and will be unnoticed. If you've used kiln dried wood and sealed the wood on all sides, I doubt you'd ever see any change. Within only 36 inches of countertop and divided by a dozen or so rows of wood, there's very little potential for movement. A wide, continuous slab would be another story, but the same fastening method would work. Look at hardwood floors. They're fastened thousands of times across many hundreds of boards in a given area. In my house I might see a few tiny hairline gaps appear in the winter as the humidity drops, but nothing is getting buckled or warped or blowing to pieces. It all comes back together in the spring. Good on ya for fixing a potential problem, but know that most youtube keyboard jockeys likely have exactly zero experience in real world woodworking. They've all watched blacktail studio or the samurai carpenter, so that makes them pros in their minds....

[@spayced]

When people overengineer movement they want a lifetime solution. Some movement issues may take years to show up, if that countertop is renovated in 10 years nobody would notice. Couple things contribute to seeing less movement in modern furniture. One is plywood. Since you say you are a cabinet maker I bet 90% of your raw material is plywood so that's a non-issue, good job. Secondly modern finishes go a long way. A thick layer of poly turns it into a plastic block that won't move either.

[@dkbuilds]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge Aaron! Fixing the movement on the front side (towards drawers) is definitely a better solution. I'm not sure that the number of rows of wood matters, since they are all tightly glued together it is the same as one big slab. For hardwood floors there are tongue-and-groove joints with slight wiggle room between adjacent boards, which is why properly installed hardwlood floors don't buckle... I wager if you glued together all of the slabs in a 20 foot wide hardwood floor you'd get a massive buckle. I appreciate feedback from an expert like you!

[@carefulcarpenter]

Wood moves in 3-dimensions at different rates of change. A butcherblock is usually made out of maple with the layers exposed. If the wood was properly dried, and acclimated to the project location, and properly sealed, I think you can simply oversize the holes in the metal plates and allow for movement. There are a couple different ways to make this work. Leave the front edge fixed at the overhang you desire. Many "think they know more than the doers" will find fault in theory without all the information gathered.

[@dkbuilds]

Thank you for the wisdom cc! I agree oversizing the holes in the metal plates may have provided enough play to absorb the movement.

[@carefulcarpenter]

@@dkbuilds The only install that might require the 1/4" steel straps would be a bar/counter area. They would be recessed and the screws would be best flush or less. Again, only one edge should have set screws. Furniture is another issue. I built a craftsman era style desk for my wife which she uses daily. Last month she asked if I would secure the quarter-sawn white oak to the legs/rails. 😁 Then I saw how she uses it for multiple purposes. Maybe I will put three undermounted double-eye connectors on the far side just to limit the slide. I could point out the advantages either way. I prefer it floating on 1/16" × 3/8" clear bumpers or felt. Hard to explain why, but I think it depends on a few factors involved with its location and use. With a butcheblock I would like to be able the flip it over in the future to expose the cleaner side. How would you install that?

[@af6146]

Home repair novice here: how did you determine what direction the wood would expand? Will it only expand perpendicular to the board layering pattern? What's to keep the wood from expanding in the other direction? Many thanks!

[@dkbuilds]

That's a great question! Solid wood expands and contracts perpendicular to the grain direction, but not along its length, or along it's thickness (unless it's really really thick). Plywood doesn't expand or contract at all really. You can think of solid wood as a stack of aligned raw spaghetti... when you cook it, each spaghetti gets fatter but not longer, and when you have many spaghettis next to each other you can imagine which directions the stack would expand. Hope that helps! It's an interesting topic and there are a lot of great resources out there.

[@jeffkosal4704]

If this is an end grain butcher block type counter. You would need to consider expansion in two directions in my opinion.

[@qwazy01]

Well done

[@dkbuilds]

Thank you Qwazy!

[@DennisMathias]

This is a beautiful piece of construction. I would have not screwed the top down at all. I would have locked it in position but I think screwing it in is overkill. It's not going to be in outer space or on a ship and isn't going anywhere anyway. A lip would have been a good idea so the crumbs don't go in the drawers. I would have let it overhang a little so you could clamp things like meat grinders and pasta makers.

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks Dennis!! I appreciate the advice. Definitely agree about the overhang being useful for clamping things!

[@paysonyoung1375]

This is a great lesson

[@dkbuilds]

Thank you Payson!

[@donbeebe2110]

I think people put too much emphasis on wood movement, especially in a climate-controlled house. I think that has a lot to do with the internet. Gluing boards together cross grain like on a bread board end, then yes you are asking for problems. I would say at most that top will expand/contract would be no more than an 1/8". There is more than enough give in the plywood top of the cabinets for the screw to move with it. My best suggestion would be to use a c-channel with slotted holes across the whole slab, use threaded inserts into the bottom of the solid top and just snug the screws enough to hold the top flat but allow movement. My biggest concern would be the top warping not the expansion/contraction. Great video though. I am now a subscriber.

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks for the comment Don! I would agree with your suggestion for c-channel, the threaded inserts would work very well there. Welcome to my channel!

[@Stwarrior23]

Would something like a z clips or table top fastener not work for this?

[@dkbuilds]

They definitely would, good ideas Bobby!

[@markbernier8434]

If you have to make a lot of those ovalish holes a Rotozip, or at least it's bit, works a treat.

[@dkbuilds]

That's a great tip Mark! I use those for drywall and hadn't thought to use it here... I expect it would work perfectly!

[@mcpiddler1135]

If the wood in the counter top was kiln dried and the kitchen is air conditioned, then I think you would have been ok as it was. However, I do think the modification is a better way to control expansion and contraction.

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks McPiddler!

[@Tyler1169]

i wouldn't have worried about reinforcing the counter, those pre assembled counter tops have a large amount glue surface area on the joints which are usually long grain to long grain. the factory will use a glue spreader to get 100% glue coverage on the joint. The also typically use hot melt PUR adhesives for it's water resistant qualities, fast clamp times, and strength. or a radio wave cured adhesive again for the same benefits. even with alittle subject looking grain, failure would be unlikely as it would take 100-250 kg of load to cause a failure. but if you're looking for a bomb proof method and peace of mind, we use Fastcap's Stealth Speedbraces typically when kitchens requires stone with an overhand 12"+ for granite and 16"+ for quarts, and depending on what our fabractor recommends. they are also capable of supporting up to 300 Lbs per brace depending of the size you order, they are also exactly purpose made for applications like this.

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks for sharing Tyler! I wish I had used Fastcap speedbraces, they look far superior to what I ended up using.

[@edm00se]

Good work adjusting, that would've been awful to find it turned into a potato chip someday.

[@dkbuilds]

Lol I can imagine a giant pringle on my island. Thanks for watching Eric!

[@FloridaGator76]

Love your videos

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks Amy!

[@TheRbray]

You can also just seal it with something like Waterlox instead of mineral oil. Just don't forget to seal the bottom!

[@dkbuilds]

Good tip thanks Ryan!

[@be_pie_today]

won't wood expand along the grain thus perpendicular to the direction assumed here?

[@dkbuilds]

Nope, wood does not expand along the direction of the grain, it expands perpendicular to the direction of the grain. This countertop will get wider and (a tiny bit) thicker, but will not get longer.

[@be_pie_today]

@@dkbuilds thanks, I also checked (should do that before commenting) and I was wrong. In my defense, I will start my first woodworking project in about a week, so I need to learn a lot ;)

[@terencegalati970]

Revisit it in 2 years and see how it holds up. Measure the overhang to the floor for a reference. Measure again in 2 years. I would have done 3 channels of 3/4" and used aluminum C channel and Liquid Nail them in place. Your integrity speaks volumes and shows in your craftsmanship. That makes you a true Master.

[@dkbuilds]

Great idea, thanks Terence! I may not be a Master yet but I am always trying to improve to get there eventually!

[@briggshome7012]

I spy another woodworking mistake: When using butcher block for counters, YOU MUST apply finish to every surface...even the underside!! This is imperative! When humidity hits the unfinished surface, it will expand more than the finished side, causing distortion. If you finished the top surface on a humid day, when the air is dry, the counter will distort the other direction. This goes for all large areas of natural slabs; finish all sides! Even then, it will expand and contract with the grain - but more evenly if finished. I installed a solid wood door, which had a butcher block type core. That 36" wide door expanded and contracted 3/8" from season to season (though painted on all sides). It would bind in the summer and the latch would not catch in the winter. It is a great lesson in the wisdom of panel doors!!

[@dkbuilds]

Wow! Thanks for sharing that knowledge Briggs!

[@eriknelson9975]

False

[@godbluffvdgg]

I've been a carpenter for over 3 decades, In my experience; in a normal project; in a property that maintains a decent average temperature; expansion and contraction are negligible...The modern laminate flooring expands and contracts pretty decently but; wood seems to react as the same as what it's installed on.

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks for sharing your knowledge Bob!

[@richardhaggarty5758]

Takes a lot to admit you are wrong…you recovered and earned a sub from me! Great job!!

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks so much Richard! Welcome to my channel!

[@andyxox4168]

Better to allow the worktop to protrude slightly over the drawer from line otherwise anything dripping from the surface will run into the drawers.

[@dkbuilds]

Good point, thanks Andy!

[@jimtownsend7899]

I say don't worry about expansion and contraction. Eventually, the entire island will need to be replaced anyway, and it gives you an excuse to build a new one! 😉

[@dkbuilds]

LOL that's one way to think of it. Thanks Jim!

[@pseudostew]

"expand or contract, which is inevitable" - so meta!

[@dkbuilds]

😎

[@kidneedonor8088]

I have been repairing furniture for 40 years and have fixed this problem many times. Usually it's a table top glued and screwed to the skirt under it. But, many times I have seen stuff that has no allowance at all for expansion/contraction and has never split even for things 100 years old. Who knows why?

[@dkbuilds]

Who knows! Thanks for stopping by, Kidnee!

[@randypowell4799]

it is all a process. Thanks

[@dkbuilds]

Thank you, Randy!

[@RobRobertson1000]

Don't worry, we all have experienced going through a whole build simply not seeing the obvious :)

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks Rob, glad to hear I'm not alone!

[@coolramone]

I had to recut and re-screw the plywood substrate on an island countertop because I forgot about the overhang.

[@theobolt250]

I still don't like the flat bar solution. Personally I would go along the line of L-shaped steel bars of about a 16th thick and about 2 inch wide. I would sink them in and would make the nessessary "tweaks" in the kitchen block to make room for the bars and to keep them out of sight as much ad possible. Three strips would be my choice. But... I've been known for overkill in making sturdy constructions. Everyone of my build ins are still in function, after up to 20 years.

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks Theo! I agree, L-shaped bars would definitely be a better solution here. There's nothing wrong with a little overkill!

[@theobolt250]

@@dkbuilds but your solution works as well. So... glad anyway it came to a good end. That you turned it in a learning experience... that's gravy.

[@LeMans512]

Classy move.

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks Kenneth!

[@richardthomas3858]

Dude I have the same block on my toolbox and it hasn't moved a centimeter in 10 years...carry-on though

[@dkbuilds]

Lol I can never find a use for it!

[@woodzzy1]

I've been doing woodworking for over 20 years. Yes wood expands and contracts, but we talking mm's not cm's or inches. All this craziness with wood expansion is way overboard. On smaller surfaces, like your butcherblock counter I bet you'll ever notice it.

[@dkbuilds]

Yeah that's a good point Adior. Probably there was enough wiggle room in the screws where I wouldn't have noticed anything. But, the humidity changes drastically between humid summers and furnace-heated winters here so I didn't want to take the risk. Appreciate the feedback and your expertise!

[@howtodoitdude1662]

Seasonal changes? It’s in a controlled environment.

[@dkbuilds]

Good point! My house actually doesn't have AC, in the winter the heating dries the house down to 10% RH and in the summer with windows open it can get into the 70% ranges ... so, bigger swings in my house than in most other houses probably 😂

[@calebcauthon1117]

But since its inside in a climate controlled room, it wont expand or contract much. This is what Ive been told by other videos.

[@dkbuilds]

Yup that's true! If you have a steady humidity level in your home and fairly constant temperatures, very little expansion and contraction will occur. I personally don't have the best AC/heating setup, so my home gets quite dry in the winter and quite humid in the summer.

[@tree_carcass_mangler]

I agree generally. However a kitchen is like a whole different environment. For instance, whenever I boil up a load of pasta, the humidity level in my kitchen goes way up, regardless of A/C setting. That's just one example.

[@Toyotajunkie]

If you have a system that keeps your kitchen at a perfect constant humidity, please for the love of all that is sacred, TELL US! If not then wood movement is inevitable.

[@m.d.d.3051]

Bathrooms and kitchens are the exceptions to that rule.

[@svenrostin2843]

Imagine a world with politicians who'd take responsibility for their mistakes and helping us learn from them.

[@dkbuilds]

Wouldn't that be nice! Thanks for watching Sven :)

[@awehnert235]

10 coats of polyurethane on all surfaces will eliminate moisture content. Then the temperature expansion and contraction should be equal to the island excuding bulk variables

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks for the comment! 10 coats of poly on all surfaces (interior and exterior) may indeed create a strong enough seal to keep out environmental moisture... but in this case I would not recommend poly for a food preparation surface.

[@awehnert235]

@@dkbuilds been doing this for 10 years, never a complaint. Most people use a clean wood cutting board. Setting food on the poly surface has no negative biological impact that I'm aware of. I do butchering and food processing on the surface and all that is needed is cleaning before and after, but that's me.

[@kylessinging]

This is an overreaction. I could understand the caution if the wood was wet at install, or if you were installing it in an outdoor space, but what you did would've been totally fine.

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks for sharing your opinion Kyle!

[@jonlanier_]

Lot of work... but an easy fix.

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks Jon!

[@zephyr1408]

As a professional finish carpenter I doubt that moves over a 1/32 if that! Watch the Samuri carpenter build an expensive table and never have it move at all ? Outdoors yes? A window casing ? Yes! Your top no & I hv built a boat load of them! Bad advice where ever u got it ? But track it during the seasons and mark then show? Also I would use a Table top fastener with a 1/4” channel! If pros had to use all that metal and screws we would go broke? Channels are used in long heavy tables to prevent cupping and bowing! This is to small and BB with tons of glue no worries! I built a 450 lb 8/4 solid oak table no screws all M/T over 4 yrs ago no channel some support stretchers with 5 “ DT not even a slight seasonal movement? Why? It’s inside a controlled atmosphere?

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks for the comment zephyr! In a perfectly controlled atmosphere (constant humidity and temperature), wood does not move at all. Some people live in more controlled environments than others. Personally my house doesn't have air conditioning and I live in New England, so it gets very dry in the winter and very humid in the summer, which is why I expect lots of movement.

[@zephyr1408]

@@dkbuilds I understand your thought however I hv never , ever, ever experienced or ever ever heard of anything moving any significant amount ? Why do I care? Customer throw it out constantly yet I performed a 4 yr experiment (built a table and screwed everything together in the house ? Out of the house? Next to open windows (extreme heat? And fairly cold 27 degrees) and we’ll one cornered cracked which I believe was from abuse ? Similarly so did the Samurai Carpenter with a very expensive table in Canada ? It moved 0 Wood movement phobia is a made up thing in most circumstances ? However I hv built large BB tops & what matters is attaching it! There in lies your problem!

[@dkbuilds]

@@zephyr1408 Thanks for your thoughts. You can agree with Samurai Carpenter that wood movement is a myth, and I will continue to believe that is a real thing. We can agree to disagree on this one :) If you have been ignoring wood movement your whole career and no problems have arisen then that's great! Best of luck to you :)

[@chrisardern4594]

Why do you expect that top to flex. I mean what are you going to put on it to think its going to bend. Ig actually looks about 50mm or 2inch think you could put a Chevy engine on it and it wouldn't bend or even flex. A bit of over engineering me thinks. But it takes guts to admit you made a booboo on your you tube channel.

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks Chris! If the grain were running in the opposite direction, I agree it could hold an engine. The countertop is weak along the overhang direction, so I would estimate ~200 lbs would snap it without any support. In the video I was trying to say that the countertop would expand and contract, and since there is metal strapping screwed to the bottom of it, when it tries to expand that would cause warping.

[@chrisardern4594]

@@dkbuilds fair comment i didnt see the grain in the top to see its direction. Was this fact mentioned in your original post as its quite an important bit of information for the novice woodworker. If fitting a top like the one you have try and purchase a board that has been cut in the way you require.

[@johnwescott9008]

This is basic joinery. And also that is not a true butchers block top. True butchers block tops should be end grain up.

[@dkbuilds]

Good point John! If this were true butcher block, it would be expanding and contracting both in length and width (though not thickness).

[@charlesroberson3761]

Ownership of a mistake is the sign of an adult ... we need more adults. Thank you.

[@dkbuilds]

Thank you for the support Charles!

[@jeffmcleod7456]

not particularly sanitary either

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks for the comment! Which part was unsanitary?

[@alexey_sychev]

I do believe it is too early to admit a mistake without any real observation of an exact problem. Someone told you this will fail - but on what real basis? Does the critics takes all of the circumstances and aspects of the environment into account? I don't think so. Premature optimization is the root of all evil. In my opinion it would be much better to release another video which shows exact problem (which actually happened) and way to solve or prevent it. This way you will get YOUR real experience, not someones else.

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks for sharing Alexey! I will agree I have not observed this exact problem with this exact piece of wood, but I (and many other woodworkers) have experienced this problem before, and I am confident there will be a problem in the future, so I felt it was worth fixing now. Additionally, people purchase plans to build this, and follow the video to help... I don't want many people building it incorrectly then a year later finding the update video.

[@alexey_sychev]

@@dkbuilds Man, you must believe in yourself! Don't hurt you confidence just based on someone experience (they probably don't really have it too!). Next time say like "hey, probably this is a better or safer way to implement this". You did not make any mistakes until it is proven with facts :)

[@dkbuilds]

@@alexey_sychev 😂 If you jump out of a plane without a parachute, have you made a mistake the moment after jumping? Or is it not until you hit the ground that you've made a mistake? 😇

[@alexey_sychev]

@@dkbuilds You make a mistake trying to compare something incomparable. I hope bend countertop would not smash you, but I'm not completely sure about your exact situation :)

[@gavinhay6627]

Elongated holes are called slots. For future reference.

[@dkbuilds]

Lol thanks Gavin

[@gastonlaberge2119]

The thing is that the original video containing what every woodworker knows as Wood 101 was presented from DK builds in order to get subscribers on KZbin (Money). These videos showing wrong or even dangerous videos continually show up from people that present themselves as 'experts' with only a beginners knowledge of the subject. I'm glad my kitchen island wasn't built by dk builds. I realize he has admitted his error but if I was to download a video on how to rebuild a transmission because I once changed a spark plug some one is going to be pxssed off.

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks for the comment Gaston. I'm sorry my channel isn't to your liking. I'm also glad your kitchen island wasn't built by dk builds!

[@johntaylor4084]

Thought this guy was leading Ukraine in their fight against Russia !

[@dkbuilds]

😜

[@zteaxon7787]

Your real mistake is using wood for a kitchen top. Had that before and it's a mess. It's dirty, not hygenic, stains fast... Especially near the sink it's unacceptable.

[@zteaxon7787]

But I see you have a different material top near the sink. Strange design to have 2 materials for kitchen top. 😅

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks for the thoughts Zte! Yes most of my countertops are quartz. This is a separate workbench/island with a different countertop. My wife prefers wood because she kneads bread dough on it while baking.

[@marktunney5000]

But its inside the house and subject to a very consistent climate(its not going to get rained on) ---AND--- its finished and sealed. There's no way moisture will enter the wood, let alone enough to warp it. Overthinking much ?

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks for the thoughts Mark! My house actually has drastic humidity changes due to lack of air conditioning (10% RH in the winter, 60% in the summer), but you are right that a consistent climate drastically reduces wood movement. As for finishing, I'm not convinced that just a few coats of mineral oil would create a hermetic seal that would prevent movement, but I could be wrong. Maybe I'm overthinking it, and maybe I'm OK with overthinking it :)

[@bigtorrisi]

How has this guy got time to be a carpenter AND run the Ukraine?

[@dkbuilds]

Lol! You're not the first to mention the resemblance!

[@garethbarnes2628]

Shouldn't you be in Ukraine, Mr President?

[@dkbuilds]

Lol! You aren't the first to make that comment!

[@dkbuilds]

😜

[@novascotia1550]

Are you related to the President of Ukraine. You are a dead ringer for him.

[@dkbuilds]

LOL that's not the first time I've heard that!

[@James_T_Kirk_1701]

Shouldn’t you be back in the Ukraine commanding your country not messing with woodworking?

[@dkbuilds]

LOL that's not the first time I've heard that. Shouldn't you be on the Enterprise?!

[@James_T_Kirk_1701]

@@dkbuilds where do you think I am typing from!!!! 🙂🙃🙂

[@chrisp.76]

Great fix!

[@dkbuilds]

Thank you Chris!