I wish I'd known this sooner, the ultimate bit guide

[@Nitrxgen]

Nice and informative video, I'd like to see more like this but 1) lose the voice telephone effect, it does nothing for the video and 2) secure your pieces when drilling even if it's for demonstrations, at 5:54 your piece is flying all over the place and say it leaves a poor finish, it's not that bad if you secure it properly, and 5:26 made me frown so hard i shouldn't even have to explain

[@Otto_Irving]

Voice changer is like a friendly hostage taker randomly deciding to educate before reading a ransom note.

[@merlinch4256]

Very interesting, clear and quite complete, thank you. At 8:00, to be able to use the tool, you can: - replace the guide bit with a longer one, or - make the guide hole and replace the guide bit with a smooth shank, which avoids increasing the diameter or shape of the guide hole, resulting in cleaner, more precise work. Oh, and don't play too much with your fingers (5:27, for example), we only have 10, normally..., and the sides of the bits are sharp. And it's safer to work on a well-kept piece.

[@MoritzElsaer-fp7wp]

What is it w these sounds? Was waiting for Jackie Chan to pop up doin his drunken monkey KungFu every moment.

[@Sill1992]

It's terrible the old radio voice effect. Completely unnecessary.

[@philcook9967]

You might clarify which drill bits are for wood and which are for metal. You didn't mention carbon steel bits are exclusively for wood and less expensive than HSS. The more exotic coatings are primarily for harder materials. Also brass and acrylic require a different point angle.

[@1chabod]

I agree. He touched on that at the beginning, but failed to continue providing this as the video went on. He might want to redo this video in the near future, and also change the title to, "The Beginners Bit Guide." Overall, decently well-made, but in need of improvement.

[@sparkoceanic]

Pretty neat video 👍 8:05 It's possible to change out the drill bit to a longer one with hole saws. I keep a few different lengths handy for different cuts. You can grind a flat surface into a bit for the set screw to hold onto better if you're doing more than a cut or two, as a bit without a flat surface on it will slip eventually.

[@1chabod]

I said the same thing out loud to myself when that part of the video came up. Lol. I had to do the same thing last week when adding an additional gangbox for outdoor lighting. If you're not afraid to alter the bit, a bench grinder can quickly add a flat reference point to the base of the bit. Just don't be too aggressive and dip frequently into a can of water, if needed. The idea is to keep the bit cool, as tool steel is ruined if over-heated and burned. It'll create a weak point. (But it's at the base, and worst case will shorten the bit by an inch or so. Lol)

[@Komaru.89]

I really enjoyed this video for its information, but I think it would be much easier to recommend for others if it didn't have the over-edited voice and visuals. Your explanations and videography are engaging enough as is, you don't need to use TikTok trends and a thousand stock transitions. Looking forward to seeing what you do next!

[@james_gatlin]

Duly noted and adjusted, thanks for your input.

[@dancharlebois2981]

There are also brad point bits, which have a point at the tip, similar to the forstner bit, and then the rest is like a regular drill bit. This allows for easy centering of the bit in the wood, which avoids the "walking" problem with regular bits.

[@1chabod]

I found that missing, as well. He mentions a spade bit (which is less common than a brad), but flies through it so quickly that you'd not know what he is talking about if you're unfamiliar with different bits.

[@johnthumble5154]

You both missed it. He glossed over them, referring to them as spur wood bit just after auger bit.

[@yohell]

At 8:07, first make a jig using the same hole saw that you want to use and a board thick enough that it can hold your hole saw in place even before the drill hits the angled surface. Then place the jig where you want your hole to be on the wall, then fire away.

[@1chabod]

Or simply replace the center bit with a longer one. If you need the flat reference point to secure the set screw to, a bench grinder can easily add one (just keep the bit cool while grinding). Much faster than making jig, but I know that not everyone has a bench grinder on hand at all times.

[@WwarpfirewW]

Nice quick tutorial, I often hear people complaining on certain bits but they actually not use it in a proper way. Many often learn how to use them but dont know why, for example in school we were always taught to mark steel first and then drill in to that dent never told the reason is these bits are at more flat angle and can slide.

[@mareprah]

What is up with the hostage situation?

[@williamking6531]

Another excellent presentation. Thank you.

[@woodrustandthings]

tnx to the comments I'm gonna be a bit more careful, I tend to hold and drill too without clamping :s, but just predrilling small holes, not with an auger (I dont have that yet)

[@karsim83]

so many bits, yet no clamp in site..

[@1chabod]

Yeah. He needs to start including safety advice into his videos. (For both the user and the wallet. Lol)

[@eltorrisimo]

I thought that 135 degree bits are considered more aggressive than 118. I think you may have this backwards? The walking statement is also backwards.

[@nicgili]

My tool rep says 135 of al and 118 for harder. Flatter tips do walk more

[@1chabod]

@eltorrisimo A steeper angle drives in faster (thus, more aggressive) and walks less often. Think of it as comparing a dowel rod to a freshly sharpened pencil. Which one would you more easily stab yourself with by accident. (Completely a theoretical statement, and not something I've done to myself on the way back from the pencil sharpener. 😅)

[@zacandmillie]

Excellent tutorial. Thank you.

[@litrick5471]

Agree with others that the random voice over sound effects are completely unnecessary and annoying.

[@PyroMonster94]

annoying sound effects

[@CaptCha-p2q]

Buen post. Gracias.

[@squigglydigglyhead]

Good video but try making the next one without the sound effects

[@mohammadbenattia9102]

Thank you

[@peterfelecan3639]

Nice and clear explanation for beginners and not so beginners (at least they think🙂) Changing the voice is kind of audition emphasis which works quite well.

[@glenbayley9697]

Nice video - loved the content and the audio switch I thought was pretty neat. I was expecting to see Brad point bits to make it here .. and maybe those diamond coated hole bits for drilling porcelain tile. Hope to see more.

[@b0rd3n]

Typo in the title

[@Leo-gt1bx]

You audio is whack.

[@1chabod]

Fairly informative video, and the channel is shaping up nicely, but editing quality is quickly outpacing content quality. For one, this is hardly an "Ultimate Bit Guide" and found more accurately be described as a "Beginners Bit Guide." There is quite a bit of necessary information left out of the video and are far more interesting bits to describe (possibly a part two down the road?). To prove, you'll want to go into a bit more depth on the uses and materials each bit type is designed for. You barely touch on this when describing the base metals and coatings, and give no direction on this when describing bit type (extremely important). You should also include (and demonstrate) property safety techniques. Clamping down materials, or knowing when to use a drill press, are important things to know. Please take a second go at this video. While your video editing skills are improving (though the voice over addition is questionably used), the important parts of information are missing altogether. You titled the video "Ultimate Bit Guide." Come on, man! If I wasn't already subscribed, this overreaching would have me quickly passing up your channel. (At the very least, capitalize your title!)

[@manfredriedelsheimer8927]

heilige scheiße: wo ist der bohrer verlinkt, wo viereckige löcher bohren kann ....