How To Surface CNC Projects and Flatten Slabs BEFORE Carving, CNC Router Surfacing

[@smokeebeefpv]

I am glad I am watching this video before the surfacing bit that I ordered from you arrives. Thanks for the in depth explanation!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Smokeebeefpv, you are so welcome my friend.

[@jimpalmer1944]

Garrett, you should have been a school teacher. You are the kind of teacher that is needed in our schools today. I can't overemphasize how much your method helps. Teaching all the way from beginning to end, not leaving about half for us to figure out on our own through trial and error.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Jim, thank you my friend. Glad you enjoyed this one.

[@ron.owensby]

He should have been a salesman.... Oh wait he is!

[@inkaman80]

Good morning Garrett, could you tell me what power the stepper motors of the equipment you use have? Desde Salta-Argentina

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Inkman80, no problem! I use the Makita hand router to run on the Longmill brother!

[@dannymullins2610]

If you don't have a mouse you need one you will love it

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Danny, I couldn't agree more brother! A mouse is a must!

[@garyhome7101]

Garrett, this is one of (if not the) best step-by-step videos I've watched on your channel! Very instructional, and the approach of taking the process from design considerations, through tool path, and then through project implementation, is the most thorough you can produce, in my humble opinion. I've been working through a variety of surfacing instruction videos and tutorials, but none of them were anywhere near as complete and informative as this one! As I responded to your recent survey, this particular video responds exactly to what I suggested! Keep them coming just like this whenever possible! By the way, this video filled-in procedural things I've missed along the way, which included designing an enlarged box over the material layout to keep the bit from plunging on the first pass for surfacing purposes, how to set the xy coordinates properly, and how to take advantage of those (in gSender), as well setting the z with the probe. Great video and thank you for making available for us!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Gary, right on brother! Glad to hear you liked this one. Im also very appreciative of your survey information! I will keep working hard to make videos that will help you.

[@sylvainforget2174]

Finally someone understands changing bits the way I was taught in machine shops (and do to this day). I cringe when people don't take the time to disassemble and clean the heck out of everything.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Sylvian, very true brother! Always clean everything!

[@joshuaklingensmith7843]

For sure

[@trumpetflowerII]

In one of your videos, you saved a file, which appeared as an Aspire file. Does that happen automatically in Ventric, or do I have to buy Aspire for that to happen? Gsender is free, and I have that, but files that I save in Ventric don't upload into Gsender. What am I missing? Thanks.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

trumpetflowerll, this one is a little tricky to walk you through via comments my friend. I recommend joining our KZbin live sessions Kate and I host every Wednesday at 8PM EST and we should be able to help walk you through it then!

[@garciarosa100]

The difference between using a mouse and not using a mouse, buying a car with round tires is using a mouse and buying a car with square tiers is not using a mouse. Both will work but...

[@IDCWoodcraft]

The explanation doesn't get much better than that!

[@jl3415]

Garrett, would it be better or worse to use g sender surfacing feature?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

No. Gsender does not account for going left of the project zero without zeroing then moving the machine left x distance and rezero

[@jl3415]

@@IDCWoodcraft would it be possible to add 4” more on the x axis and .5” on the y, I’m just a newbie trying

[@woodworkingDad64]

Great video! Thanks Garrett!! This has worked wonders for boards that get twisted a little after glue up, that no longer fit through my planer. I’ve not used the tape and glue method. I have used carpet tape and have found if the board is too warped it doesn’t grab the waste board. Have you ever had this issue with the superglue method? When that happens I just double up on the carpet tape until it grabs firmly. The carpet tape is not particularly cheap

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Marcus, right on brother! Glad to hear this one helped you. Warping is still an issue with this method. I sometimes do multiple layers to make up for any issues in the gap.

[@marcadvancedwood]

Hi Garrett As a best practice you should not bottom out the bit up in the collet it won't tighten properly the bit needs to be pulled down just a millimeter or so. When you tighten the collet, it wants to pull up just slightly and you don't want those two forces fighting each other or the bit won't tighten properly. You want to have that little bit of room for the bit to move up when you tighten the collet for it to get the best grip on the bit.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Marc, I see your perspective brother. Thanks for sharing!

[@daneilers739]

Great Video; can I use zero in the center of the material as opposed to the lower left?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

daneilers739, Yes, you can absolutely use the zero point in the center of the material instead of the lower left corner. Just make sure to adjust your CNC machine settings accordingly. Happy woodworking!

[@rickdefalco1676]

Great job on teaching this Only thing is I was taught that you never want to bottom your bit out because as you tighten up your collar the bit needs to be able to move if it’s bottomed out it might not actually be tight and could loosen up while you’re carving

[@IDCWoodcraft]

rickdefalco1676, very true my friend. That is a very good suggestion.

[@brianhart5317]

I just have to say, i bought your one inch four flute surfacing bit and it is the best bit i own now. It is amazing. Thank you.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Brian, im happy to hear that! Happy CNCing my friend.

[@VoodooDon]

Your videos are great. I like that you leave no mystery steps like many others often do. You have helped me finally get going on my cncest 6090 that I bought 2 years ago. I made the mistake of not seeing that support was non existent before I bought it and up until now its been a $2k paper weight. I still battle it daily but thanks to you I am making progress with it and the Mach3 software I have to run. I thought about changing to GRBL but that maybe a even bigger headache lol. Ok I will stop rambling now thanks again for all the help and motivation.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

VoodooDon, Thank you for your kind words! I'm glad my videos have been helpful in getting you started with your CNC machine. Keep persevering with Mach3 - it can be a powerful software once you get the hang of it. Happy woodworking!

[@Bart_Depestele]

Non-mouse users are cpu abusers

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Bart, that is so true brother!

[@robertburks9878]

Great video. I am a beginner in the CNC world. I like the way you explain everything I have learned so much from your videos. I bought the starter set of bits and have the 1 nch 4 flute bit and love it. Thanks so much for the time and effort you put into these videos.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Robert, you are so welcome my friend! Keep working hard and learning everything you can.

[@thomasswenddal772]

p.s. All of your videos are very helpful. I hope someday to get a Longmill CDC from you along with with all pertinent bits and etcetera's as I can see so many potentials. Till then though I can still study and save. Thanks Garret for all your hard work and the dreams you've helped inspire. p.p.s. I HAVE AND USE THREE MOUSES (off to a good start)

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Thomas, you're doing all the right things for now brother. Best thing is do is to learn as much as you can about the software side of things that way you can hit the ground running when you get your machine in hand!

[@michaelmessuri7746]

Your videos are fantastic (and causing my bank account to drain - As I am switching my bits to the IDC versions that you cover in your videos :) ). With the information you pass along in your videos I feel like I am finally transitioning from just "point-and-clicking hobbyist" into someone who not only knows what they are doing but why they are making the choices they make. Thanks

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Michael, right on brother! Glad to hear you are on the right track.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Michael, right on brother! Glad to hear you are on the right track.

[@zarnfast534]

Your video's are great thanks i have learned a lot while I researched CNC for my own side hobby, have a question for the hold down, I have used hot glue with my hand-held flatting table wondering if you have tried hot glue on the cnc and how it would go

[@IDCWoodcraft]

zarnfast534, I'm glad to hear you’ve learned a lot from the videos! Hot glue can be useful for some applications, but it may not hold up well under the CNC's cutting forces compared to other hold-down methods. It might also be challenging to clean up afterward. It's always good to experiment and see what works best for your specific setup!

[@ralphalameda1381]

Garrett, Thanks for the great video. The question I have is surfacing when you have a project that requires tiling. Any suggestions. I used the tape and glue method for the 1st time and it worked well. For all those cncers if you don't have a mouse, like Garrett says get one..

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Ralph, I dont have a video on tiling but I will in the future! Sorry I cant help you right now brother.

[@ralphvanwinkle]

I surfaced several pieces but always have steps in the finish. The steps are flat so tramming doesn't seem to be the issue. Any thoughts. Thanks Ralph

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Ralph, double check you tramming brother. It might still be off by just a little bit!

[@anonymous-rq2dp]

Thank you for providing the Vectric tool database; it's incredibly helpful! However, it would be even more useful if there was an option to have the database in millimeters as well, for those of us who work with the metric system. Thank you again for all the valuable content!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

anonymous-rq2dp, I'm glad you found the Vectric tool database helpful! Your feedback about the metric option is noted and appreciated!

[@karensmith5510]

Great video. Next wave automation cnc control software has what the call virtual zero built in there control software. It uses multiple Z points to map the surface of your work piece. This keeps the same Z depth across the surface of your project in the invent that you have a warped board.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Karen, that is a very cool piece of software! I want to try it out myself.

[@MDD1966]

Almost done with my nap! Wow, 1 hr to explain this I could use a chisel!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

MDD1966, Haha, I get what you mean! Sometimes a quick chisel can do the trick, but there's definitely a lot of technique involved with CNC work too!

[@MStoica]

No way, I was doing surfacing wrong. Not the part about starting from outside the material (Fusion automatically does that for a surfacing toolpath (called “Facing” in Fusion). But about going against the grain… could that be a reason for.burn lines? I’ve always randomly chosen the direction, never thought to not go against the grain. Did a surfacing last night (oak), and the direction was against the grain (just because I wanted the step over to be along the Y axis and my piece was longer than the working surface). And I had to do A LOT of sanding to get rid of those, especially since I didn’t have anything rougher than 120 grit in the house. Now, I’m wondering if the burn lines were a product of “going against the grain”. Could it have that side effect? The bit was new. And I did check the recommended feeds and speeds of the bit, and although I was in the correct interval, I was on the lower side - I’m always a bit reluctant of going for anything else other than the lowest recommended setting. Of course, I work in metric, so after doing the math, I didn’t like the number so I rounded it down a bit, slightly under the lower limit (recommended was 120-150ipm, and I went with 3000mm - that’s like 118ipm). But that’s less than 3% under, it’s so insignificant that it shouldn’t make any difference, right? Also, depth per pass seemed to be fine, by your example. I had 1.2mm, which is about 0.05in. And even if there were some spots slightly below that and other spots slightly above that, the burn lines were consistent. Anyway, what I’m most curious to know is if going against the grain could be a reason for burn lines (be it in addition to slightly going under the lowest speed or not)

[@IDCWoodcraft]

MStoica, great points brother! Consider increasing your feedrate 15% at a time until the burning goes away. That should solve your problem brother.

[@ctenos45069]

Garrett … been doing a lot of studying and seriously evaluating starting a CNC business. You are simply the best CNC teacher on KZbin and I just wanted to say thanks. I am not trying to make a fortune with whatever machine I end up picking, but I can guarantee I will be giving your company some business.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

ctenos45069, thank you for the kind words my friend. I'm truly humbled! I'm looking forward to you getting your machine and seeing what you create!

[@waynehyatt5565]

Just what I needed to learn about surfacing. Thank you! I just finished my first surfacing test run and it worked great. I do have a question regarding the dust boot: What should I do to control the wood chips flying all over? The dust boot doesn't fit using the IDC 1 1/2" surfacing bit. System is a Longmill MK2.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

waynehyatt5565, I'm glad to hear your surfacing test run went well! To control the wood chips, you may need to look into adjusting the positioning of your dust boot or consider using a different sized surfacing bit that fits better with your setup. Experimenting with different setups can help find the best solution for controlling the wood chips on your Longmill MK2 system.

[@JoeLazzara]

Another well crafted video Garrett. EXTREMELY informative and easy to follow. I definitely needed this video a few weeks ago when a board I was working on got totally screwed up and I wanted to salvage it. Since I didn't know what to do, I wound up using the G sender surfacing program, but this would have been a lot better!!! Big time. Now would this lesson apply to resurfacing your spoil board also, or is that a totally different thing? Thanks.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Joe, glad to hear that this one gave you a few good lessons learned. You could definitely use this same method to surface a spoilboard.

[@rogers8581]

I use the 1.5 inch surfacing bit today. LOVE IT! ALL THE BITS I HAVE PURCHASED FROM IDC WOODCRAFT WORK GREAT! Thanks for teaching us also. Thanks Garrett.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Roger, right on brother! Keep working hard my friend.

[@BobBozeman]

Just used the 1.5" surface tool from IDC Woodcraft as is described in this video - WOW - VERY nice.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

BobBozeman, That's great to hear! The 1.5" surface tool can really make a difference in your woodworking projects. Enjoy using it!

[@TimNudd0525]

Thank you for yet another great teaching video! Ironically last night I had just ordered the 1.5" surfacing bit along with the "Hog" and the ultra fine detail 2 bit bundle/set to add to my arsonal since my amazing wife bought me as an anniversary present a 6040 cnc to upgrade from my diy 3018 cnc as well as an Excaliber 21" scroll saw! I aint sure how I am going to match that gift, but I am sure it will involve a lot of fine cnc 3D artwork! Lol. Now to decide whether to learn Mach 3 software or convert my machine controller on my new machine to Arduino so I can keep using G Sender .

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Tim, right on brother! Congrats on your new machine. It sounds like you are well set to get to making any project you can think of now! I am excited to see what you create.

[@trumpetflowerII]

following your advice on settings I got the following: The following tools produced empty toolpaths. They may not be able to fit anywhere.......What have I done wrong as I'm using a 22mm diameter surface bit? Happy Xmas.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

trumpetflowerll, this one is a little tricky to answer via comments my friend. I recommend joining our live sessions we host every Wednesday at 8PM EST and we should be able to help guide you through it there!

[@marcelboehm-m1y]

very helpful video Garrett. Love the step by step you do. Saving me tons of head scratching. Thank you

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Marcel, I am so happy this one helped you brother!

[@avoidtheherd7066]

I got nervous watching you reaching out to test the workpiece smoothness while the cutter was still in motion.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Avoidtheherd, good call brother. Cant be too safe around a CNC.

[@dhebert111]

Do you always have to have a few fingers before getting on camera, or was it just because it's about surfacing? 😂, just joking of cource buddy...

[@IDCWoodcraft]

dhebert111, Haha, I like your sense of humor! It's always important to prioritize safety in the shop. Hope you enjoyed the video!

[@KarlBunker]

You mention using this bit with Carbide Create, but CC can't (yet) do pockets with the "raster" zigzag path you show. It does pockets by beginning with a plunge cut in the center of the pocket. This will cause a Bad Day® with your bit. Carbide Create Pro can do ramping when it starts a cut, which might work with your bit.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

KarlBunker, very good points my friend. Keeping your bits in proper working order with different software versions is critical.

[@robotsnthat]

Nice video Garrett, with some great tips. When I started out I only had my CNC, so did what you show in the video, but with a 1/4 shank bowl bit from a cheap router bit set. Worked fine, just need to get the crossover correct Saying that, if you're doing a lot of natural wood professionally, it would be worth investing in some other conventional woodworking equipment such as a planer thicknesser/jointer. Saves a lot of machine time. No need for anything too expensive if your main output is CNC work, but saves a lot of machine time. Keep it up mate.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Robots, good call on using a bowl bit. That would work great too. I completely agree, if you are doing a lot of this, a planer is a complete time saver.

[@martyjosephson4937]

Hey Garrett, I'm following the video, I was just wondering if you could show a video in which when a project needs a tool change and how that works, do you need to re-center the bit or continue the program?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

martyjosephson4937, Hey there! When a project requires a tool change, you'll need to manually pause the CNC machine and change the tool. You'll then need to re-zero the new bit to make sure it's properly aligned before continuing the program. It's a good idea to practice the tool change process a few times beforehand to get the hang of it. Great idea on the video. I will look into that and add it to the video list brother! Happy woodworking!

[@Roger-o4j]

Garrett, great video's! I'm not watching this live so I am not sure if you will even see these comments. For the second pass you used the probe and reset "Z" zero. I totally understand that process. Is is possible to just offset Z using the software and run again. example: The programmed tool path removed .050 but I only want to skim .010. Can I apply and offset to either the z-axis or possible add a line in the g-code? I'm running a I2R-8 with a UCCNC control.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Hey brother, this one is a little tricky to answer over comment my friend. I recommend joining Kate and I for our weekly youtube live sessions we host every Wednesday at 8PM EST and we should be able to help walk you through it tonight!

[@Hrdplay]

I like it- Thank You. One question if I am doing an inlay that has multiple inlays (different colors of wood) I could use this method to surface smooth without removing the project?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Hrdplay, you sure can brother! Just set the final depth to be the finished height of your project and you are set to go my friend.

[@thomasswenddal772]

Please get a mouse. Furthermore, the type he is pointing to does an excellent job. Do it now. Besides, you will make the rest of us be able to listen to classes with less stress. PLEASE GET A MOUSE, PLEASE!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Thomas, I agree brother. Having a mouse makes life a whole lot easier!

[@ChrisShumaker-y7z]

Fantastic information sir! What about end grain surfacing. How would that be different.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

great question brother! You will do an identical process to this for endgrain as well!

[@ronnorris1504]

As always Garrett, thanks for the very informative video. Your expertise and explanation in all matters with CNC and VCarve are always helpful. Thank You!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Ron, thanks again brother! I'm glad this one was helpful for you. Keep up the great work over there my friend!

[@PerryShaw-ey8zo]

hello Garrett back again i have artisan 4x8 cnc table with spindle have every thing working as should be . Except spindle mach will run all way thru project will not cut

[@IDCWoodcraft]

PerryShaw-ey8zo, I'm sorry to hear your machine is giving you troubles brother. Unfortunately, I am not much help here. I am not a tech guy when it comes to CNC machines. I may be good with the programing and operation but when it comes to troubleshooting, I'm an absolute deer in the headlights. I recommend reaching out to your machine manufacturer regarding your issue. They will be able to help you the best my friend!

[@davidstoecklein8413]

Well i ordered your 1" surfacing bit, now i wish i would have ordered the 1.5" bit, lol

[@IDCWoodcraft]

davidstoecklein, the 1" surfacing bit is a mighty bit nevertheless brother!

[@neonaffliction]

Great video Garett. Thankfully at work we just run the wood thru a planer to avoid this stuff. Keep up the good work

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Neon, that is a great tool to have too!!

[@gordongroves6674]

Great video thank you. I will try out an order on the 1.5" surface bit depending on Import Tax to UK. It would be helpful if anyone can throw a light on the kind of taxes that are employed Id be grateful.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

gordongroves, sorry about import taxes brother! That is all out of my control. Your best bet is to reach out to your local government to determine what taxes apply to you upon import.

[@louisdeschamps3430]

After survicing the two sides shouldI remeasure my board and enter that meassurement as the meassure dimensions of my board before doing the project ?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Louis, I would definitely recommend it for more accuracy with your projects brother.

[@WaterN2WineCreations]

Great video! Maybe I do it wrong, but on the second cut I just go off the material and go to Z 0. I know that is cut depth above above the surface. I jog my Z down the amount I want to take with the next cut and set that as 0 and run the program. I have surfaced several projects like this with perfect results.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

WaterN2WineCreations, that is a great process too brother!

[@Sirxx99.]

Unfortunately Tramming before doing this is required. You cannot trust that everything is in tune. I have your 1 inch surfacing bit and found out the hard way.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Sirxx99, you're absolutely right my friend! You'll definitely want to tram before surfacing!

[@ronjamison4346]

Very informative video, as usual. Thanks for taking the time to thoroughly explain everything.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Ron, it is my pleasure brother! Happy to hear that this video helped you.

[@laynemimstx]

great job. people getting an expert level experience and class on how to do this. as always, great job.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Layne, thank you brother!

[@williamlynch4899]

This a great video for beginner CNC users. It explains everything very simply and thoroughly.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

William, I am glad to hear this one helped you so much!

[@garymansager4022]

Garrett, Discount code for Starbond isn’t recognized?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Garymansager, try using the code IDCWOODCRAFT10 brother!

[@MrJohnBatty]

Seems like if you are not sensitive about end thickness, you should identify the low spot, not the high spot, then you avoid need for two passes.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

MrJohnBatty, you certainly could do it that way too brother! You know what they say, there's a hundred ways to skin a cat! Happy cutting!

[@reece674]

Another awesome video, thank you. Do you ship your bits to Australia? I would be interested in getting a few once I get my CNC up and running.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Reece, glad you liked this video brother! As for shipping to Australia, not right now my friend. I'm sorry brother I've been having so many issues with shipping/losing packages shipping over seas, I've had to take a step back and only ship within the US. I'm looking into better ways to ship to you and our other CNC brothers and sisters in other countries in the future. I'm sorry for the inconvenience my friend!

[@reece674]

@@IDCWoodcraft Thank you for your reply and that is totally understandable. If you do happen to find a suitable international shipping method then definitely let us all know. Thank you again for your content, I am learning heaps and it is very much building my confidence.

[@resorter66]

GARRETT i HAVE 2 MAYPLE 1.5 THICK AND 20 INCHES LONGi WANT TO GLUE THEM TO GETHER SO i CAN GLUE THEM TOGETHER SO I NEED A FILE THAT WILL GIVE ME A STRAIGHT SIDE ON EACH 20 BOARD SO i WILL GET A GOOD GLUE EDGE AS i DONT HAVE A JOINTER JEFF PETERS

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Jeff, This one is a little tricky to walk you through over comments my friend. I recommend joining Kate and I for our live sessions we host every Wednesday evening at 8PM EST. We should be able to help walk you through it then brother!

[@skamp69ab]

If you are surfacing your spoilboard it is not possible to have the bit off to the side unless you make your spoilboard smaller than the bed. I have a 3018 and usually carve material the full size of the bed. Do you have any tips for this scenario?

[@powerpc6037]

you can use the ramping feature in the pocket toolpath. Just use a big enough ramp distance (like 3-4 times the diameter of the bit so about 5 inches should be enough for a 1.5 inch surfacing bit) to allow the bit to cut away enough material so the center of the bit won't ever touch the material.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Shawn, another person commented that you could use a ramp but in most machines, you have a little bit of space where you can go off the sides of the machine and have it not run into itself! If you are having trouble with the ramp or using the sides of your machine, it would be best to reduce the size of your spoilboard!

[@ozguzzi]

LongMill should include this video with all new machines sold. Great video.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Ozguzzi, glad you liked this one my friend!

[@kevincarter9555]

Garrett, When I ran the code on my CNC it left every other row just a little bit higher. Not sure what I did wrong or what is happening.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Kevin, you'll want to tram your machine and make sure everything is level brother. Here's a link to a video where I walk you through tramming →kzbin.info/www/bejne/boXCi5Spm9V3qa8. I think you'll find it super helpful!

[@katekreisman4485]

Thank you Garrett, we have learned so much from your videos. You are a very gifted teacher.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Kate, you are so welcome. Keep working hard!

[@hurdyg1]

Garrett, the best and useful information as always. Thanks

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Bruce, right on brother! Glad it helped.

[@3dtwerking324]

Good tips, I like to call myself lazy. In that not lazy in never doing the work lazy in finding a path with less effort and possibly less time. If you have a thickness planer and your work fits in your thickness planer. It saves a lot of time and effort. The flaw with a thickness planer is you cannot make a flat workpiece due to its short clamping area that typically follows the curve, well you can't without a slight bit of help. To make a flat piece you need to make a simple sled out of say 3/4" MDF (1" works better on long parts) which is very flat. Place your work on the sled and use a hot glue gun or low profile clamp to firmly attach the not flat work (without the clamping force deforming the work, it needs to lay naturally) onto the sled and run it through the thickness planer to get 1 very flat side. Then simply pop it off the sled and that is the table side of the workpiece. The sled will guarantee 1 side touching the planer table is perfectly flat for the length of the work. There are many videos on planer sleds. The router will peel off any leftover glue. This is a trick used often to turn a thickness planer into the functionality of a jointer. You don't even really need to clean the glue off the sled as your always using glue for the next piece. The same concept applies if its a large workpiece using the router. Hot glue it to a large enough piece of MDF (or the spoilboard) then clamp the MDF to the router to surface the work. The hot glue will "fill-in" the curvature of the work to hold it in position while you make 1 side flat. This method takes a bit more time as you have to make a surfacing program and shave off the glue from the spoilboard if you used the spoilboard. Note that you need enough glue to hold the work and a few small dots won't do it. You will get use to the amount needed. The hot glue acts as both standoffs and clamping force to hold the work in its natural form to the table.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

3dtwerking324, right on brother. I couldn't agree with you more on saving yourself some time. Thanks for sharing your insights, I'm sure it will help out some of our CNC brothers and sisters!

[@tampabaysunshine]

How do you separate the glued work piece from the sled after planing?

[@3dtwerking324]

@@tampabaysunshine The only trick with this method is the right amount of glue to serve 3 tasks. Hold the work from twisting (standoffs), hold the work from getting free and removal of work with ease. Too much glue works excellent but is more work to separate, too little and you still have a work piece that is twisted. If you have the right amount of glue a strong heavy duty blade OLFA knife works really well to cut free the work. A fairly sharp chisel will work well also. Cut some free and pry the rest. I use the heavy duty knives and just a quick pass down each side with the blade extended a bit under the work. Sort of like the CA glue/painters tape hold down for cnc just gently with force pry to remove. Glue left on the sled acts to help use less glue on the next piece, glue left on the work will machine off. I've seen people use the planer to remove the glue running the work normally through the planer but I'm not sure thats always a good idea. As the cutters get hot the glue may stick to the cutters/shaft. I don't know if that may or may not effect future maintenance or performance of the planer. You can always do a very light skim pass on the CNC to re-surface or re-level the MDF to remove excess glue now and then. I found the heavy duty knife way keeps the sled clean and ready for the next work piece where the chisel leaves a few chunks that may need to be removed. I seen a video that was interesting a week ago where a guy used playing cards as shims with less hot glue. I suppose one could use scraps or wood or splinters for the same result. Each thickness planer seems to be a little different with things like downforce. A bit of trial and error will work through the amount of glue. I also always if the wood is crowned place the crown down as you can't get glue easily under a raised crown and the down pressure may try to force flaten which means you still have a crown when done. Depends on the width of the piece.

[@tampabaysunshine]

@@3dtwerking324 thanks for the detailed response! very helpful!

[@williesmith1828]

What kind/brand of touch probe is this. I need one

[@IDCWoodcraft]

williesmith1828, I'm glad you're interested in touch probes! The one I used in the video is by Sienci specifically for the Longmill CNC router and is known for its accuracy and reliability. Here is a link: sienci.com/product/autozero/?ref=idcwoodcraft

[@collinpoyle9480]

Would this tape/glue method work on an mdf material spoil board? Or is it too porous?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Collin, absolutely brother it works like a charm!

[@terry2346]

Got the Carbide create bit database download and tried to import to CC free version. (Version 6) and it did not work??? Is there a different download for the older versions?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Terry, I'm sorry my friend but the database is only compatible with the latest version of Carbide create.

[@jonkeisler1250]

Garrett , what about using G-Sender surfacing option.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

jonkeisler1250, I haven't tried out this function yet but you can certainly give it a shot! As they say, there's many ways to skin a cat!

[@PaulHirsh]

Surely it would have made more sense to set the zero Z at the thinnest part of the plank, that way you can be sure to shave off all the excess in one go.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

PaulHirsh, that is a great way to approach this one brother! I like that idea.

[@melekdrew]

I'm using vcarve pro it dose not give me surfacing bit options

[@IDCWoodcraft]

melekdrew, for this you would need to set up the bit as a 1.5" or 1" endmill. I have a bit database that will help you. You can upload it to Vcarve and you will have all the correct feeds and speeds for every bit from IDC to include surfacing bits. Here is a video on how to set it up: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZmfUnaGZq992mLs Here is a link to download the database: idcwoodcraft.com/pages/database-downloads

[@MrDakman]

Great video Garrett!!! I absolutely love how you go step-by-step, almost baby steps for people that are new to CNC machines, such as myself. All of your videos are fantastic and I rely on them to learn how to run this machine. I have done three projects so far. I am starting on a fourth project, which is going to be cigar ashtrays, made out of an 8” wide dead branch I had over the house here for years. I cut it up into 2 inch pieces and I need to straighten the top and bottom.. Thank you so much for all you to do in theses videos, it’s a HUGE help to us people that are new to this.!!!!! Thanks again Garrett!!!!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

MrDakman, Thank you so much for the kind words! I'm thrilled to hear that you find the videos helpful and that you're diving into projects like those cigar ashtrays. Good luck with the straightening process; it sounds like a fun project!

[@MrDakman]

⁠ thanks for your video. I straightened them out and it went flawless. I will send a pic of the finished ashtray when I complete them.

[@robotsnthat]

Should have also mentioned, never have your bit pushed all the way in, when it gets hot it will expand, and push the bit downward. Push until it bottoms out, then pull out ever so slightly. Not much just 1mm will do, but will prevent the bit expanding downwards. Another tip, the little bottle brushes are great for cleaning out Collets, The very small ones for cleaning baby bottles/teats are ideal.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Robots, very true brother! All great points.

[@oldNavyJZ]

Bits should never be inserted "all the way". There is a line on the bit that the bottom of the collet should meet. Well - on the bits I use, anyway.

[@ahmedibrahem3712]

what if you serfce cut after you use upcut bit so you clean after it

[@IDCWoodcraft]

ahmedibrahem3712, you absolutely could brother!

[@glendaneaton9646]

Very helpful! Shame I’m not in the same country.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Glendaneaton9646, bummer! I'm glad it was helpful for you though my friend!

[@tonyrichmond9428]

Very dangerous to hold just a little bit of your shaft and let a bunch of it hang out. Choke up on that thing 😂

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Tony, very true brother!

[@p2krazee]

Using a mouse will cut your design time by 85%.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

p2krazee, I couldn't agree more my friend the mouse saves a ton of time!

[@kennethsoderlind5578]

Thank you, I needed that,,KS🙂👍

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Kenneth, you are so welcome brother!

[@ChrisHensley2]

Who doesn't use a mouse? Like beyond cnc / cam who doesn't use a mouse with a pc? By default, it would be assumed people have a mouse, yes? What am i missing?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

ChrisHensley2, depends on your computer brother! Some CNCers might strictly have a laptop.

[@ChrisHensley2]

@@IDCWoodcraft admittedly I forgot about laptops and touch pads

[@malcolmtemporal6571]

Sorry but did it difficult g carve has a surface program wich isfar eatery

[@IDCWoodcraft]

I didn't use g sender surfacing because it cannot account for the larger size beyond the project size and offset from the zero start point

[@IDCWoodcraft]

But thank you for sharing this because gsender is easy for other surfacing

[@jest2927]

menos palabreria y mas sistema metrico decimal,es decir,milimetros

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Jest2927, Lo siento por eso hermano. Estoy completamente de acuerdo, ¡me gustaría poder hacer más cosas en métricas también!

[@TomBraun-m6l]

It was a helpful video! Leave it up.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Thanks brother, I appreciate your insight!

[@edwymer2226]

Are your bit's Carbide tip's?.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Ed, yes they sure are brother!

[@ald.3449]

What would be tge settings for hardwood? Ty I did my first surfacing cause of watching your video. Made it so easy to learn!! Came out perfect.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Ald, "I do have the IDC woodcraft app that has all the feeds and speeds for every IDC Woodcraft bit right on your phone. It also has different settings for hardwoods! Give it a shot IDC Woodcraft CNC Router Bit App Links Apple → apple.co/3IKj9Td Android → bit.ly/3kmFCfN"

[@ald.3449]

I have a caribe router. Which isn't an option to put in.

[@MRebeckah]

How should this process differ if I’m surfacing an end grain cutting board? Thanks!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

MRebeckah, it won't differ much my friend! You shouldn't need to make any crazy adjustments or anything. End grain cuts extremely well!

[@MRebeckah]

@@IDCWoodcraft Thank you! I was thinking about chip out and cut direction as the bit exits out the side but maybe that’s not an issue with surfacing bits. I’m still learning!! 🙂

[@DEHATEM]

Garrett, you've been great help, but need assist. I mimicked your process but when I create the tool path I end up with a margin at the top and bottom that does not cut. I selected the outer vector but does not pocket to the full extent of the box. It cut's off the to the left and right but doesn't go to the full up and down extents of the box. I'm on Vcarve Pro V10.5. any Ideas?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Dehatem, try making the box bigger brother!

[@DEHATEM]

@@IDCWoodcraft Will do, I followed all the steps and dimensions you did in the video and didn't get the same results. trying to figure why in pocket it didn't go to the full extents of the vector box like yours did. I noticed that on your path that the final path overlapped more to meet the perimeter. mine seems to measure from the center of the box and if not enough room for the bit it just wouldn't make that final path.

[@russwhitworth5820]

May I ask where you get your z probe

[@IDCWoodcraft]

russwhitworth5820, no problem brother! Here is a link: sienci.com/product/autozero/?ref=idcwoodcraft

[@pickandgrinnin]

I freehand route more than I CNC. I was taught to bottom out my bit in the collet then back off a little. as bottoming out a bit in the collet wears the collet out faster. Not sure how true that is just something I learned.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

pickandgrinnin, I recommend a similiar method but I recommend using the chucking guide I've created here instead: link.idcwoodcraft.com/d24x7u

[@pickandgrinnin]

very nice! @@IDCWoodcraft

[@davecable3104]

Would it not been advisable to set up x and y to a position that would have the bit come down off the board? You set it so that one half of the bit came down on board.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

davecable3104, Great observation! Setting up the x and y position to have the bit come down off the board would definitely help prevent any unwanted contact with the material. It's always good to double check your positioning before you start cutting.

[@davecable3104]

@@IDCWoodcraft The more I think about it though it may then not run off completely at the other end. I guess as long as the cutting edges extend more than the .05 past the flat area there’s not a problem.

[@jimmygarner7116]

I was always taught to never put the shank in all the way til it stops and tightened but rather to the stop then back out a smidge so it holds better. Because the collet is pulling the tool inward as you tighten and it’s against the stop, it may not tighten completely.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

JimmyGarner, good point brother. That could be very true.

[@jimmygarner7116]

Thank you for the reply. I find your video lessons helpful even though I have been a toolmaker(carbide cutting tools) for the aircraft and aerospace industry primarily working for the same company for 38 years.

[@brianwalters8277]

What is G sender software

[@IDCWoodcraft]

brianwalters8277, It controls your CNC machine! I have a video that should really help you brother! Here is a link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/l6nCeZp_o9toZtEsi=A3ruhh02EdMfRaYm

[@williamhanna5224]

That's my mouse its amazing !

[@IDCWoodcraft]

William, it's awesome!

[@everettshafer2413]

Thanks - New Learning

[@IDCWoodcraft]

everettshafer2413, you're so welcome my friend! Happy cncing!

[@timothylint9578]

Can I catch one.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

timothylint9578, Haha, catching a CNC machine would be quite a feat! It's a stationary tool used for cutting and shaping wood. It's fun to watch in action though!

[@apachesim]

Use a mouse!!!!!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

apachesim, good call brother! Ill do that in the future.

[@dougbeckett1468]

Using a mouse is a must!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

DougBeckett, I couldn't agree more my friend.

[@paulwatson5003]

A big fat thank you!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Paul, you're so welcome brother!

[@rescobar8572]

SUBSCRIBED!!!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

rescobar8572, Thank you so much for subscribing! I appreciate your support.

[@Mr_I2obot]

Amazing video, THIS IS A HUGE HELP TO ME. Also, the rant on using a mouse was hilarious.. I can't wait until next wednesday evening for you guys to go live! Thanks Garrett!!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

izobot5344, Thank you so much for your kind words and support! I'm glad you enjoyed the video and found it helpful. Looking forward to the live session next Wednesday too!

[@suzanneselby7386]

Very helpful! Thank you for making this tutorial on planing in VCarve. This will be my first approach.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

suzanneselby7386, I'm glad you found the tutorial helpful! Planing in VCarve can really elevate your woodworking projects. Good luck with your first approach!

[@mikeV2848]

very good lesson

[@IDCWoodcraft]

MikeV, glad to hear it brother!