IFSC Climbing World Championships Hachioji 2019 || Women's Combined final

[@jakeglob8107]

Speed 00:20:24 Aleksandra Miroslaw vs Ai Mori 00:22:09 Janja Garnbret vs Petra Klingler 00:23:43 Futaba Ito vs Shauna Coxsey 00:25:20 Miho Nonaka vs Akiyo Noguchi 00:29:36 Ai Mori vs Janja Garnbret 00:31:12 Futaba Ito vs Akiyo Noguchi 00:32:55 Aleksandra Miroslaw vs Petra Klingler 00:34:48 Shauna Coxsey vs Miho Nonaka 00:39:05 Ai Mori vs Akiyo Noguchi 00:40:53 Janja Garnbret vs Futaba Ito 00:43:49 Petra Klingler vs Miho Nonaka 00:45:44 Aleksandra Miroslaw vs Shauna Coxsey Bouldering 01:19:57 01:54:13 02:28:58 Ai Mori 01:23:27 01:59:02 02:33:45 Akiyo Noguchi 01:25:40 02:01:58 02:38:11 Janja Garnbret 01:30:25 02:04:40 02:42:52 Futaba Ito 01:35:25 02:09:44 02:47:56 Miho Nonaka 01:39:53 02:12:42 02:52:31 Petra Klingler 01:44:05 02:17:13 02:57:15 Shauna Coxsey 01:46:43 02:21:42 03:01:46 Aleksandra Miroslaw Lead 03:40:39 Ai Mori 03:47:54 Futaba Ito 03:52:46 Petra Klingler 03:56:55 Miho Nonaka 04:03:14 Janja Garnbret 04:09:52 Aleksandra Miroslaw 04:13:42 Akiyo Noguchi 04:20:01 Shauna Coxsey

[@theolopez3299]

Jake Glob lifesaver

[@ArtanisKizrath]

The hero we need and deserve!

[@BrianMortenson]

And the final scoreboard is at 4:24:34

[@oatiko3065]

✌🏾🥇

[@luksurias]

4:17:45 she have 1min more then Janja and why she was in hurry, omg

[@NotQuiteFirst]

I felt so bad watching Ai Mori in the speed and Alexandra Miroslav in the non-speed

[@alex-1n9reem]

Speed is so bad in combined it hurts

[@KuangWoo]

I was really rooting for Akiyo so hard. Such a pity she couldn't top the rout, it was so so close. She deserves to win for all her hard work, talent and passion to the sport all these years. Hope she's fine and will get her gold in World Championship or Combined one day.

[@littlepaul2561]

If I was Japan I would send her and Ai Mori

[@hungdo6397]

Absolutely agree, the win didn't even seem too important to Janja, as she's barely shown any joy about her victory.

[@mainaalmeida4246]

Yes, me too! She was amazing, such a impressive climber!

[@theolopez3299]

Little Paul yeah i really admired ai mori’s performance

[@ummonk]

@@littlepaul2561 Miho uninjured would probably be stronger than Ai Mori, primarily because of speed climbing. Ai Mori should fair better in 2024.

[@carlosdumbratzen6332]

I feel a bit sad for Futaba and Petra, they climbed so well on those boulders and still got nothing much out of it. But I am glad Shauna is back in business and I am completely stunned by Ai Mori, she is amazing, just the sheer determination

[@oldman013]

I also think the system is kind of messed up. Speed is emphasized way too much.

[@JustTex]

wow ai mori is a little powerhouse on lead, so impressive

[@JustTex]

@Jimmy Indeed , she definitely has the potential

[@vincephan344]

@@JustTex Yep she's only 15, it'll be scary when she's in her prime, i expect her to win most of the Lead events next year

[@sinekonata]

@@vincephan344 She won't be any taller though...

[@vincephan344]

@@sinekonata 15 years old are still growing, plus she will get stronger and have more route awareness when she has more experience. She's gonna be a problem for Janja in the near future.

[@sinekonata]

@@vincephan344 Experience sure, and she's already proven so much both in lead and boulder here. But I don't think women grow much more past 15 years old though.

[@bradb0t]

Speed starts at 19:40 Bouldering starts at 1:19:55 Lead starts at 3:40:25

[@BrianMortenson]

Ai Mori scoring lower than Aleksandra Miroslaw overall proves that the multiplicative scoring is flawed. 2nd place is the most unfairly scored in this system. And there's so much luck of the draw in the speed competition, which compounds the problem.

[@allanhee]

But there was no luck involved in Ai Mori's speed score. She lost all three of her races and was clearly the worst of the group. She really needs to improve in this discipline to make the Olympic team. The climber most affected by bad luck in the speed competition was Futaba Ito. She placed 5th in speed, but proved in her second and third races that she was actually the 2nd fastest of the group. If Ito had place 2nd in speed, she might have medaled.

[@oldman013]

Agree. I do not like multiplying. Adding seems much better.

[@xthechar]

@@allanhee Seriously. The bracket style for speed is totally messed up. It should be done in a Swiss style and Futaba Ito would have been second as she deserved to be.

[@David-ud9ju]

Definitely adding is the better option and produces a total that better reflects the all round capabilities of the athletes. Why they chose multiplication is a mystery.

[@kayelle8005]

I love watching Ai Mori climb. So happy she topped the lead wall.

[@lindac5287]

Who enjoyed watching the women chat with each other at the end just as much as the watching them compete?

[@eljanrimsa5843]

Poor Ai was sitting alone.

[@pennyloo974]

And the hugs... JG giving a big hug to AN

[@ExecutionSommaire]

The only good thing about speed is that it's quickly over.

[@MrFlopstar]

Find the joy? It ain't interesting, per se, but it's the way of things.

[@drewharris7785]

I like speed

[@ninjommel]

Ai Mori in that lead route 😯😯

[@terraflow__bryanburdo4547]

Freakish composure.

[@brettfaver5871]

That ain't a kid, it's a tiny little man!!! :P

[@tianxiaohuang7339]

such a pity for Akiyo...

[@J4J0]

I would have been really happy for her to finally get gold. For me, It's like with Noriaki Kasai - you are rooting for your compatriots, but you are not even slightly mad if he wins.

[@littlepaul2561]

Same but she clearly isn’t in her prime anymore

[@theolopez3299]

Little Paul yeah, if she was, i think she could get the gold

[@xyrandus]

She was absolutely robbed with that short rope.

[@Channy132]

The alternative scoreboard if they added instead of multiplied: 1st - JG - 9 (on wins) 2nd - SC - 9 3rd - AN - 11 4th - MN - 12 5th - AMo - 15 6th - FI - 16 7th - AMi - 17 8th - PK - 17 I personally like this one more

[@landerhendrickx3522]

Channy132 yeah multiplying is weird. Where else do you see that style of scoring??

[@oldman013]

Adding seems to be way better than multiplying.

[@james64ibm]

I think it would actually be worse, because just one slip in the first round of speed would cost too much, with the lead competition (where the relative scores of the athletes are sort of set and almost repeatable) becoming somewhat unimportant. Also, winning one discipline wouldn't count for much anymore. If you want to move away from multiplying, you could a) just give positive points that are mathmatically equivalent to the multiplication (if you gave the winner 30 points, second 20, third 14, fourth 10, fifth 7, sixth 4 and seventh place 2 points you would basically always get the same final ranking) or b) scrap the ranking of the individual categories altogether and give points for the absolute performance - i.e. one point for every tenth under 11 seconds in the speed, 10 points for a top plus 5 for a zone minus something for the attempts in bouldering, and 1 point for every move in the lead minus the final time in minutes, with half points for pluses and half-minutes used to get a better split). I'd technically favor the last system, but the problem is that it's inherently arbitrary in the values given to the categories, and more susceptible to the difficulty of the lead and bouldering routes.

[@landerhendrickx3522]

james64ibm one slip in the lead would destroy ranking also but your system seems superior to multiplying also

[@yanbinzhang320]

And speed climbing are also terrible and unfair. For example, if we put janja and Aleksandra in the first round, janja will get ranking between 5 and 8, but if we put janja and ai mori in the first round, janja will get ranking between 1 and 4, so the result is not depended the time she got but the person who climber together

[@ummonk]

It's based on qualification times. Fastest qualifier gets easiest matchup (i.e. against slowest qualifier).

[@yanbinzhang320]

@@ummonk but someone who against speed climber will definitly get the rank below 5, but if she face someone else, she will have a chance to win at least... Why not just everyone tries two or three times, and taking the best result, that is speed absolute...

[@wwerocksinstyle]

@@yanbinzhang320 i get what you mean but this way it makes performing well in the qualifiers much more important and rewards you for doing well rather than scraping your way in.

[@jellevm]

Yeah that's always the problem with single elimination, double elimination would be way better but probably take too long.

[@mathjoker]

@@jellevm Why is it elimination at all? It should be 3 runs, compare best times. That would also eliminate the ridiculous disqualification when you start early.

[@carina-nonbinary]

Ai Mori on Lead is simply magical.

[@joeyshim1465]

Highlight at 00:41:28 I love the smile!

[@Schrodinger_]

If Tokyo only has 1 medal to give for climbing, they should just scrap speed. I have nothing against speed, but it's really pointless to include when we know that none of the actual professional speed climbers will partake (with the one exception, but we already know how it will turn out for the poor girl). Basically all it does now is act as a wildcard that makes it so that the best performing climber in the Olympics might not even win. It's as if they made each hockey player in the winter Olympics do a figure skating display beforehand, and then modified the score of the game based on their performance.

[@maddiepilz5711]

It's too late for any changes in the setup. For the Olympics 2024 there will be two medal sets though, like you suggested.

[@David-ud9ju]

I actually think having speed is good because it forces climbers to train speed as well and become better climbers. I know lots of people say speed isn't proper climbing but there a lots of people who say that any kind of sport climbing isn't proper climbing. They'll be haters everywhere. I think the average non-climbing person will probably enjoy watching the speed more than the others - certainly more than lead.

[@bartz4439]

@@David-ud9ju both men and women top speed climbers are struggling to start boulder problem or climb competitively in lead - how then speed climb made them "becoming better climbers"? its complete different type of sport. imagine forcing ussain bolt to train for marathon cuz that will make him better runner ;)

[@SollithGaming]

​@@David-ud9ju The problem is that speed almost has more in common with running events, specifically something like the 100m hurdles, than lead/boulder climbing in terms of format, training, etc. It's a static route that has participants compete head to head with others compared to a solo event that takes a more methodical approach to the changing conditions each route/round. As for the sentiment that "sport" climbing isn't considered "climbing" either; that's a much more nuanced difference, as "real" climbing is generally considered outdoors, of which there are outdoor "sport" routes too. The sentiment is more directed at indoor climbing, but is still a much more nuanced difference in most people's opinions. Speed, lead, and boulder can all be enjoyable to watch as spectator sports, because they are all really easy to understand the general rules involved; get to the top of the wall. The difference between speed and boulder/lead will be quickly understood too. However, lead and boulder will be a little more difficult for the general public to differentiate, because one will just come across as a taller version of the other, but I don't think it will be a a real issue with potential spectators either.

[@Orangepie86]

Sollith yeah but decathlon has all sorts of events in it too. Speed doesnt have to be similar but they need at least 3 events to make this combined format interesting

[@sseungvy]

someone needs to talk to the routesetters about that final boulder problem, yeesh

[@landerhendrickx3522]

That 3 boulder route seemed rediculously hard for everyone. The poor Polish woman was not prepared for the bouldering and route climbing.

[@dyndu2074]

What a joke this format is. You could really see on her face Aleksandra was embarrassed when she was trying on the boulders and lead. It's like putting a swimmer into a sprinting race and then a marathon. Speed is just a mess. Having competitors go head to head is the most moronic way of doing it, hence why the 2nd fastest contestant came in 5th. And to top it all off we effectively only got 2 boulders.

[@LeaderOfTehBox]

Yeah, not her fault, great at her sport and so of course she really wants to go to the olympics. Just unfair to her and lead/bouldering specialists that it’s scored the way it is. So much more crossover between the skills used in bouldering and lead as opposed to speed.

[@themeatpopsicle]

Now she knows what she needs to work on before the Olympics. She won't have to worry about it for Paris in 2024.

[@aftonhessian5213]

Yeah coming from someone in youth usac speed is just kind of a joke to anyone who doesn’t do it. (90%)

[@JuanPablo-pg7cp]

The IOC only gave 1 set of medals (gold, silver and bronze) for climbing so the IFSC had to decide what to do with one set of medals for 3 disciplines, so they merge the 3 disciplines into one combine which was the fair thing to do given there are athletes all all three disciplines. So the format is pretty fair and good given the circumstances.

[@dyndu2074]

@@JuanPablo-pg7cp You've addressed exactly 0 of my points.

[@androgynousmaggot9389]

Not only on lead, but even on bouldering, she was amazing! W1 and almost W2 only more sad about Noguchi not getting gold after such an amazing career!

[@J4J0]

It sounded like a questionable format, but in the end I was glued to the screen the whole time.

[@daveispingu]

if we added instead of multiplied the scores we would have had this field: .... .... hiding for spoilers . ..... ... ..... ..... 1. Janja - 9 points 2. Akiyo - 11 points 3. Shauna - 12 points 4. Miho - 13 points 5. Ai Mori - 15 6. Futaba - 15 7. Petra - 16 8. Aleksandra - 17

[@ph3086]

great point mate.

[@danielmurawski5926]

Shauna would have 9 points

[@klara7247]

only actual problem with that would be that coming 1st and 3rd at two parts isn't deemed better than coming 2nd at two parts (which I kinda think it should be), otherwise I think that's how it should be

[@victoriag7573]

Poor Akiyo, heartbroken at the end but still smiling through

[@tijo2051]

so good to see shauna and every other competitor's smile! great to see their positif mindset on their face :)

[@radimm5936]

Nice example how unwise is it to combine speed with other 2 disciplines. First of, how dangerous is it to fall from bottom couple of carabines in lead climb, especially under this angle, imaging belayer fed her rope to clip and she just couldn't hold it because it's just too hard for her and she fell. And secondly, how mentally frustrating it's got to be for speed climbers to just flap around boulders which are way above their level. This is just.. meh

[@makoko6812]

I think those speed-climbers competing in combined are pretty great lead climbers and boulderers as well - ofc not as good as the specialists, but still on a very very high level (just as lead-climbers are not specialised in speed, but some of them do perform really well allready). I think the routsetting on the lower part is as safe as can be for all the participants. Ofc a footslip or something can happen, but i dont think this would be to dangerous with the right belayer. For me it is very interesting to see how "specialists" do in other disciplines and how they progress and im quite confident, that there will be speed-specialists who can make a great transition to combined by focusing more on bouldering and lead.

[@Lotjeloveslaika]

I mostly agree with your argument, but for two parts: 1. A good belayer will revent falling too much. 2. The IFSC was kind of forced in making this the olympic combination, as I'll explain here. For a few years now, the three disciplines are lead, bouldering and speed. There is quite some overlap in lead and boulder, but not so much with speed and the other two disciplines. But when the IOC announced that speed climbing would be a part of the olympics, they only allowed two events: one for men, one for women. This forced the IFSC's hand: what were they going to do about it? Would they choose one event, or a combination? They did consider only doing lead and bouldering, but by doing that, you'd alienate a big part of current sport climbing athletes. So combined would be the best solution. And the reason that they go for the multiplication, is that it makes sure that people who are specialist in only one of the three specialties, will also qualify for something like this (otherwise, chances would be we'd still only see lead and boulderers, instead of the true superstars in one specialty). So yes, it sucks, but it's the best they could do with the limits put onto the IFSC.

[@mmakid]

Best Event in quite a while ...

[@GabrielConstantinides]

1:58:15 'You wonder if it might be worth as soon as you've basically got in the same ZIP code as the top just launch for it' hahaha

[@bgdm6254]

I was very excited and enjoyed it. but I hope that the combined scoring method will be improved someday.

[@NotQuiteFirst]

Speed is the mystery ingredient in the combined format that means anything can happen. Despite Janja clearly being the dominant climber, she was barely more than a move away from being beaten by either Akiyo or Shauna.

[@littlepaul2561]

If Ai Mori doesn’t get sent to the olympics I’m going to be furious lol

[@allanhee]

She's strong in bouldering and lead, but horrible in speed. Noguchi, Nonaka and Ito are all more well-rounded and currently have a better shot at a medal. Ai Mori really has almost no shot as long as she keeps coming last in speed.

[@martic5951]

Not necessarily. Because of the multiplication format she could do just fine if she does well in lead+bouldering. (8x1x1) = 8 Janja won with 12 points. Or even (8x2x2)= 32 that could still be a medal.

[@allanhee]

@@martic5951 True, but it leaves no room for error. Mori was so bad in the qualifying round in speed that she only made the finals by finishing 1st in lead. Had she finished 2nd, she wouldn't have made it to the Finals. Also, that first place finish has a "yeah, but" to it...Janja was exhausted from making history and would have probably topped the route in less time than Mori had she been 100%. My point is not to shame Mori, but just to say that she doesn't definitely "deserve" a spot on the Olympic team over Miho Nonaka and Futaba Ito because she is bad at speed and was fortunate to make it to the finals.

[@yannpuzenat712]

@@allanhee imagine you saying that about badmington, tennis table and tennis......^^; 3 differents disciplines, 3 medales! point.

[@allanhee]

@@yannpuzenat712 Sure, it's worth discussing whether the Olympics should expand climbing beyond sport climbing. However, for now, there is just sport climbing and it involves all three disciplines. My original point was that, if I could choose two climbers to represent my country, I would be concerned about adding a climber that excels in two disciplines but is horrible in the third.

[@greengraycolor]

I felt so much for Akio in lead :(, despite always supporting Janja...

[@pottierromain6690]

Ridiculous format, how can you be 4th (or even 2nd in the « best » case scenario) without doing anything at all on lead & bouldering!? Not blaming any climber, only the format. How come a single discipline is worth more than 2...!?

[@dailynotinteresting4325]

The scoring makes sense for a combined format. Being best in one discipline is a big help but not enough to win. Doing well in all disciplines is enough to win, or doing very well in one and pretty good in two, or very good in two and okay in one, but you're not going to win with middling results in two disciplines and a bad result in another, nor should you.

[@Dom-cq8pw]

The multiply version gives you a huge boost if you manage to come in first at least once - I personally don't like it either so I understand where you are coming from

[@dailynotinteresting4325]

@@Dom-cq8pw I'd say that coming first against a field of world-class competitors is a big accomplishment. Scoring 1/8/8 is the same as scoring 4/4/4, so it's not a massive advantage to do it just in one discipline if you're not solid in the others.

[@dailynotinteresting4325]

I don't think two seconds off in a speed format is "pretty close". In this final there's a pretty big gap between the speed and difficulty climbers in their respective disciplines, but check out the men's competition - the lead/boulder guys are quite fast on the speed wall, and the speed climber is actually surprisingly strong. I think there's future potential for a combined format that makes more sense once people start specializing in the combined. Right now it's athletes from different disciplines trying to adapt to a new format, which is why it seems clunky.

[@leviathansclaw17]

@@dailynotinteresting4325 Yes but that's what the separate championships are for isn't it? I think the combined format should look for the best all around climber of all three disciplines, the multiplication system just makes the value of getting first in one discipline only insanely high which isn't the point in my opinion.

[@MrkDns]

I like speed competitors try out the boulders and lead route, it's like bringing an average climber to show how really good are the others :D

[@maddiepilz5711]

Yes, I thought the same! :)

[@34567kjhgf]

POOR AKIYO :(((((( man i feel for her

[@大谷翔屁]

森秋彩ちゃんはほんとにリードが強いよね。リード登りきった時は泣きそうになった。

[@jonnes__4657]

It was very exciting, but IMO the rank weighing should be discussed. The last rank (8th) should be punished a bit more. Gold-Janja... the winner takes it all! .

[@RUNawaYLEE]

they should add some penalty system in the scoring to make it more fair for athletes who did well overall. Polish athlete ranking higher than Ai after doing 0T0Z and 10 in lead....hmmmmmmm

[@山田三郎-k5j]

野中さんのファンです。女性としてとても魅力的です。オリンピック、第二位で是非とも選ばれてほしいです。

[@regnbuefarvet]

So we should choose athletes based on attractiveness now? Right!!

[@mico8187]

4:17:44 in this split second Akiyo could've had her first and only world championship gold

[@laufsteakmodel]

whats even the difference between world championship and world cup

[@mico8187]

@@laufsteakmodel you have a few world cups a year. world championships happen only every other year and i think are invitational based on a climber's performance on the world cups.

[@chriswood1400]

Really enjoying this feed! thanks you and well done iFSC

[@flylikeblackjack]

Why do they race speed like that? Shouldn’t it all just depend on your time? I feel that this method is so unfair

[@yt-ye5kw]

I can't agree enough!

[@tiamat87]

speed was always like that... with only the times it would be so boring

[@NotQuiteFirst]

4:22:09 is probably where Shauna apparently stepped on a bolt in the lead which is why she was marked down

[@ohisee9173]

Disappointed in the routesetting. Ai deserved a top in each of those boulders. She read them all correctly and displayed every necessary skill. EDIT: just watched her lead climb. "much to the ire of the routesetters" hahaha

[@phsopher]

I don't get the reason for this multiplying system. Miroslav is obviously an exceptional speed climber but she could barely get off the ground both in lead and bouldering and yet she is the fourth best all around climber apparently. Which she also would have been if she never even bothered trying any of the boulders or the lead route. If the scores were added up instead she would tie with Petra for the last place. Also, don't get the two climbers per country in the Olympics thing. Who cares about countries? I wanna see awesome climbers. All four Japanese climbers should go.

[@phsopher]

@@Renegade_rm56 Indeed and so what? If they are the 8 best players in the world why shouldn't they claim the top 8 at the World Championships or Olympics? Isn't that kinda the point?

[@phsopher]

@@Renegade_rm56 Well the top three places are still dominated by a handful of countries in most sports while the rest of the world has no chance. If we are after equity rather than athletic prowess we could say that once you've won you're not allowed to compete anymore. Or we could decide the medals by lottery. That's certainly equitable.

[@phsopher]

@@Renegade_rm56 Best out of the people who happen to be there because some superior players have been barred from entering. As a spectator, if I am watching the World Championships, I want to see the best people in the world. Even if they are Chinese.

[@phsopher]

@@Renegade_rm56 I guess we have different perspectives then, dude. For me competitions are more about individuals than countries.

[@designerbro7260]

Olympics is mainly for showing sport’s ability of a country than the individual athletes. Thats why most athletes don’t take salaries to compete in olympics.

[@Channy132]

Interesting how they set the scoring up to value the win's over consistency. The most consistent high performer but only came third. 2 outright losses and a win still comes 4th?

[@jakobelkholtei1425]

yeah, also the fact that if two climbers end up with the same score after 3 disciplines the one who was ranked higher in 2 wins. This means you have to go for winning individual disciplines rather than be a good allrounder, which seems really weird as I think the COMBINED championship should test allround climbing skills

[@regnbuefarvet]

Will you stop saying that Tokyo has more people than Canada? The population of Canada is around 37 million, the population of Tokyo is around 14 million.

[@GR-yf1cm]

Love the camaraderie amongst the competitors ...so nice to see . They all did a great job 👍

[@tomogorman3947]

Hold on ... i’m confused ... is the speed route always the same route for all competitions?

[@yannpuzenat712]

yes...in every country, training and comp are the same exact wall inclinaison , holds..etc

[@Mexxy]

Nice thumbnail update Mr Editor

[@diabl2master]

1:48:36 Her trousers are preventing her from moving her legs apart! Not the bestc clothing choice!

[@tonylang7526]

WOW!!! TUFF BOULDER CLIMBING COURSES!!!

[@ryananderson3909]

1:26:26 - Janja and Akiyo are both 5'5"?

[@aladeenmadafaka6286]

what are those clapping things audiance is using? it looks wierd to me...asia world probably :D

[@samenci]

4:22:11 Where Shauna put her foot on the bolt.

[@pbandjosh]

Climbing starts 1:19:55

[@33samogo]

What a drama! After Villars I predicted well that for Janja will be enough 8-1-2 to win the combination (Charlie, prediction is not so difficult for the best climber, she almost lose the shoe to ;), but I put the 1 place on the bolder and 2 on the lead, here was reversed, and that give Akiyo a chance to win! Shauna Coxsey is a big surprise, like a clever foxy she was preparing for the championship on speed an lead (she made great improvement) while others burn the energy in competitions, especially Janja. In this championship Janja clearly expose two weak points, fatigue and bad ability to change the move sequence when the first choose doesn't work. If she is not tired, both weak points disappear, so at the Olympics will be even easier for her to win. I am impressed with Ai Mori, the big battle will be in the future for the lead crown.

[@35nacl]

Anyone knows what sort of grades the router setters set for the problems for competitions? And are they more or less the same grades averages through out the competition, or do the get progressively harder as they get to finals?

[@diabl2master]

4:35:50 Janja see Akiyo fall and knows she wins

[@guysegal8163]

It's called "Projection Mapping"

[@ikre1101]

Not the best format but anyhow congrats to Janja 🥇🥇🥇❤🇸🇮❤

[@gusstuss]

Janja wins triple gold, what an absolute fucking machine!

[@elamantun8162]

now time matter on lead?? what happen with best rank on qualification like they do on previous comps?

[@J4ckBauer]

As I understand it there is no count back in this format (combined).

[@elamantun8162]

@@J4ckBauer what a bummer, i thought ai mori won on lead, thanks anyway

[@yannpuzenat712]

@@elamantun8162 she did, in my heart...lol

[@klara7247]

I’m fine with speed climbing being a part of it (I guess) but the entire tournament ranking thing is actual bs, like if the 2nd fastesr climb goes up against the fastest in the first race, they’ll end up 5th at best, better would be to rank them by their time

[@jonikerkhof6743]

someone tell me. Why do speed walls have so many holes? the holds are always in the same place....

[@hairtoss7975]

to make them lighter

[@sk8guitardrums]

The point and scoring system works well for combined climbing, i hope in the Olympics they have similar format as the World Championship with 4 discipline events (Speed, Lead, Boulder and combined) with good structure to the events to allow the athletes rest days between each round. they have 2 weeks so should be possible to spread it over the whole Olympics.

[@MartinManscher]

They don't. They just have combined.

[@yannpuzenat712]

worked well? So Aleksandra (poor girl on border AND lead...) is a better climber than Ai Mori.......? ok.....

[@Myrthe164]

Such a shame for Ai Mori, she was set back significantly because of her pairing in the speed. And because of Shauna's bolt step she is tied with Miho, meaning that she is the third Japanese climber. Maybe that pairing with the speed specialist actually cost her the Olympics! Ridiculous format, it's fun to watch but works out really unfair this way.

[@Alex-lu5tn]

To be fair Ai was clearly the weakest speed climber overall aswell. But I agree, the format can be unfair, as much as I love Shauna, she got a very lucky 2nd place.

[@themeatpopsicle]

if you can figure out a way to make it more fair, i'm sure they'd love to know about it

[@J4J0]

@@themeatpopsicle having the best time count (as in the qualifiers) would have been fairer and more in line with how the results are measured in the other two disciplines, in my opinion.

[@Changsta31]

@@J4J0 I believe they were seeded by qualification time? So Ai Mori was the slowest and got matched up with the fastest climber in Aleksandra. They moved to the bracket format for the finals for olympic viewing, but it's not that bad either since it still encourages people to get fast times in qualifications to get the best seeding rather than just enough to get through and reset in the finals. Not saying people aren't trying to get their fastest times in qualifications, but it's not the worst thing in the world. If it were random seeding, then that would be terrible.

[@jessicawood7155]

To me, seeding times in speed based on qualification makes me wonder why they don't do countback to qualification on the lead wall instead of going on times. Seems like the speed climber gets an advantage out of a quali result, but the strongest lead climber of the quailis (Ai) was screwed out of a win because they decided not to do countback in the combined.

[@leventetakacs4638]

The 'Speed' is overrated ,the scoring is not correct...

[@jonnes__4657]

Yes, I agree, for speed climbing you don't need such good climbing skills. You only need to be a sprinter-type. But that's the game... .

[@strongarmclimbing]

Really interesting format...

[@scytaletleilax]

4:11:18 Me when i try to climb a 7c and i regret it

[@maddiepilz5711]

LOL

[@henrimeunier8981]

it was awesome !!!! :D

[@mananaurora]

These boulders are basically flash (or fail early) or nothing.

[@pojepoje4054]

this format is intense!!

[@vitarlaeda]

"And a crowd basically made a collective 'Uuuu' " :)

[@rdlivelove]

Love AI Mori… she is so incredible climber! I admire her and her skills and simply put she is the best! Whenever she wins my heart is smiling ..

[@mykim0712]

리드 볼더링과 스피드는 조금 성향이 다른 것 같은데 억지로 시키게 되는 것 같아서 콤바인 종목이 불안해 보이네요 스피드 하다가 다치면 리드나 볼더링에 큰 영향이 있을텐데

[@leoingson]

Janja didn't seem to enjoy the format (or simply was wrecked from too many hard days) - first time she was not all smile IIRC.

[@つみたて投資マン]

Ai Mori always never give up.

[@brettfaver5871]

I love how Janja was persistent on the 3rd boulder! Anyways the difficulty of that problem made it more suspenseful which I enjoyed. It just gets boring when they can waltz up to the top.

[@MartinManscher]

This really exposes the combined format for what it is. A humiliation of the speed specialist who almost struggled to get off the ground in the real climbing disciplines, while jumbling the results in those same climbing disciplines. The format is a disgrace to the sport, and an insult to both speed climbers, lead climbers and boulderers. For those interested, here are the results for the real climbing disciplines (lead and bouldering), the potential 2024 format, assuming the same multiplication system: Janja 2 Akiyo 3 Shauna 12 Ai 12 Miho 24 Futaba 30 Petra 49 Alexandra 64

[@nicolasbourbaky1578]

Could someone please explain me how they establish the ranking in case of a tie ?? For instance here Miho Nonaka and Ai Mori both got 80 points but Miho got ranked 5th and Ai 6th. Do they then take the semis results into account ?

[@kimparretti]

They break the tie based on who beat the other in more disciplines. So Miho beat Ai in 2 of the 3 disciplines: Bouldering and Speed. Ai only beat Miho in one: Lead.

[@karlaart6971]

First, I can't believe this scoring system is what is going to be adapted for the olympics and presented to the world. It doesn't make sense to only excel in one out of three discipline and still be able to beat out other competitors better in multiple disciplines. If that were the case, have the separate competitions. Combined should measure the ability to excel IN ALL THREE. This makes absolutely no sense. I understand they should also be strong in speed, but sole speed climbers as demonstrated by Aleksandra will always be outliers to the overall scores with this system

[@StealRubles]

Fine, KZbin! I'll open it just to get it out of my homepage.

[@paolo_galassi]

I feel so sorry for Akijo

[@kim98677]

My knees and shins started bleeding as soon as the start for W2 became visible. Really cool and so so creative getting such a cool move from so little material but what a nightmare of a start 😂

[@Gantzz321]

Ai Mori score did not show her true ranking here.

[@ComicsInk]

Looked like the rope stopped akiyos jump, even before the commentators mentioned it I thought maybe the belayer messed up

[@mx2000]

Is there a check how much weight they put on the auto-belay in Speed? It feels like during a lot of the slips, get some extra support by the belay line.

[@DILKI28]

4:22:06 Shauna Coxsey stepping on the bolt.

[@deept3215]

Watched it a few times and it didn't look to me like she was even close to the bolt

[@lonestarst8]

I think Akiyo Noguchi plans to retire after the Olympics. I hope she crushes the competition with a decisive Gold! [*insert Japanese slang phrase for encouragement*].

[@MartinManscher]

Gamba!

[@rzeznikrzezniklol]

Speed is not climbing Speed is Speed you can tell by speed climbers taking last places :/

[@james64ibm]

Moral of the story : If you don't have external genitalia and want to beat Janja Garnbret in a climbing competition, start working on the speed wall.

[@theolopez3299]

2:11:55 wrong climber

[@marcferrer3301]

So the 4th classified couldnt clip the 3rd quickdraw nor secure one single boulder zone and she already has a spot to go to Tokyo next year. Dont you see how uselees this format is?

[@luksurias]

4:17:45 wtf she get 1 st place and a lot of time.

[@pongwiboonma]

I have to say it looks pathetic seeing great climbers struggle speed climbing, and seeing top speed climbers couldn't even make half of lead wall. When they stand next to each other it also looks awkward, like putting athletes from different kinds of sport together and try to make it the same sport. How can you even say Miroslaw is top 4 female climber in the world when she doesn't even make half of lead wall. This is a simple proof this combined method doesn't work. Well this is rather a politics problem. If they only put bouldering and lead climbing into Olympics? Why do they wanna have only 2 gold medals for sport climbing anyway (male + female)? Why can't they do 6 gold medals for all 3 disciplines when there are so many medals for swimming inside the same pool? Well I believe it's gonna change in the next Olympics. First time always have problem.

[@yannpuzenat712]

exactly! Miroslaw better than Mori???? (nothing against Miroslwa..)

[@bartz4439]

it was even dangerous in lead.... now the question is if the route setters will put first 6 meters relatively easy so everybody can safely clip in....

[@mykim0712]

아이모리 대단하네 신장도 아직 작은데 기술로 극복하네... 반면 얀야는 신장이 워낙 유리하다보니 그걸 적극적으로 이용할줄알고

[@pbandjosh]

Between party trick boulders, a lead route set for aesthetics of the holds and not the moves, and a speed specialist being humbled climbing in a contrived combined format, this is an embarassing "representation" of the sport.

[@theolopez3299]

pbandjosh yeah it was unfortunate that that was what happened with alexandra

[@jaydee7741]

Not a fan of the multiplayer scoring. If Akiyo toped the lead then miho would qualify for the Olympic. But her fall means Ai qualified for the Olympic. If scoring was additive Miho would have qualified either way. (Japan may choose to hold that slot for someone else regardless)

[@hairtoss7975]

Japan got 2 medals, so they made the right choice.

[@nyudupont2611]

GANBA あきよ！！！

[@sinekonata]

Noooo, Noguchi! Why? Her jump was so poorly executed that it feels she had nothing in her right arm by then. She should have rested more. I bet she was scared of Janja's speed and spared no time. She would have very comfortably ended up 1st if not for that single fact. Big love anyway