IFSC Climbing World Cup Nanjing 2017 - Bouldering - Finals - Men/Women

6 Japanese athletes, Lead star Jain Kim and the reigning season champions all climbed in Bouldering finals at #IFSCwc Nanjing. Find out who stood on the podium at the rematch in China!
All the information about the event on:
www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.ph...
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The IFSC Channel - On this Channel you can follow the three climbing disciplines: Speed, Lead and Bouldering. Follow live streams, athlete interviews and event highlights brought to you by the International Federation of Sport Climbing!
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[@technikerboulderbundesliga]

Narasaki|Kim - Sugimoto|Onoe - Kruder|Coxsey - Cornu|Nonaka - Chon|Kotake - Watabe|Garnbret #1 0:24:38 - 0:32:05 - 0:36:30 - 0:40:50 - 0:45:37 - 0:49:55 #2 0:55:22 - 1:00:40 - 1:05:37 - 1:08:30 - 1:12:45 - 1:25:50 #3 1:30:55 - 1:35:27 - 1:40:11 - 1:43:41 - 1:48:11 - 1:52:47 #4 1:57:38 - 2:01:48 - 2:06:15 - 2:10:12 - 2:14:30 - 2:18:52 2:21:54 Final Results MEN 2:24:10 Final Results WOMEN

[@gregachard6375]

gj

[@BESTCLIMBER]

thank you !!

[@NickLiang]

You are a hero.......

[@Garraffe]

Auf euch kann man sich verlassen!

[@yonikatz9035]

Klettermafia i

[@nolyspe]

That simultaneous double top by Jernej Kruder and Shauna Coxsey was incredibly satisfying to watch.

[@schnacker41]

I hope Alannah will be back to do more commentary on future events. I think she did a great job, really enjoyed listening to her.

[@jokepp]

I really enjoyed Alannah's commentary! Great mix of commenting the action, background infos and humor :) thank you, Alannah!

[@BriBoyVidz]

Jokep Jokep I'm happy she commentated cause she's my climbing coach ;)

[@Michael-st6zq]

Agreed! Also nice to hear Jain Kim's name pronounced correctly. Too bad the commentator didn't listen to Alannah and still insists on pronouncing it like Jane...

[@robertobreve8623]

oh nooo

[@p00ya_]

1:16:24 the clock resets with 12 seconds to go, 1:16:33 KOTAKE Mei tops within the actual time limit. She should have been awarded the top instead of being made to go back on a technical fault.

[@Triggerboy78]

absolutly.. she had like 3 seconds left.. its a shame, not only because she could do it in the 2 minutes, if she had 3 minutes she would have done it again, not to mention what would be with the old 4+ rule

[@KW-ub9lz]

yeah that was a BS call. That top would have put her in 4th instead of 6th I think.

[@danielfernandes1241]

Dean Scarff i

[@laxrulz7]

I'm not 100% sure she had full control. It's hard to tell but she just barely touches with both hands then pats and falls down... But the way she was reaching, that definitely could have been a desperation touch AS she falls down (or they might have called her off the wall because of the technical problems). I agree with your point though. They have clocked video replay. Let her finish it and check it later.

[@TheGarodes]

Jeff Hall she touches it with both hands counts to three and then claps the wall as celebration dont be silly thinking that is how desperation looks, she was in full control there

[@technikerboulderbundesliga]

HIGHLIGHTS ♦ 0:44:20 Miho Nonaka misses to match the top ♦ 0:53:20 Keita Watabe got 1 sec left ♦ 1:07:21 Shauna Coxsey finishes #2 in Dragon Ball Z Mode ♦ 1:16:15 malfunction on the clock, Mei Kotake has to climb again (1:22:50) ♦ 1:39:14 Rei Sugimoto runs out of time for his top ♦ 2:00:20 wanna see a figure of 4 by Jain Kim

[@jokepp]

Great infos! Maybe move the infos further down, so people don't get spoilers :)

[@one800stupidphotos]

HAHA, dragon ball z mode had me laughing so badly

[@waoasada]

in addition 11:32 meanwhile Miho is chatting,the official is teaching about the "top" secret only to janja and coxey .Moreover, he omitted the needless explanation to the climbers whose height is less than 160 cm.

[@adam_fiflip]

Klettermafia i

[@Chopicus2000]

Thanks for the spoilers.

[@ballofsnow]

It's the finals... there are only 2 climbers on the wall at a given moment, how hard is it to show BOTH climbers!?

[@Nickshair]

V12(8A+)

[@patrickwienhoft7987]

In other IFSC competitions it was often mentioned by the commentators how the route setters are skilled enough to build routes that aren't easier or harder depending on your side. However imo for W1 this is definetely not the case. It was a real pain to see Mei Kotake make good attempts, but just not being able to make it, mostly due to her size...

[@aswanshankara2319]

what a disgrace to not award the top to mei kotake finished with 3seconds left who cares that there was a technical issue with the clock how hard was it to check the video on see that she finished easily within the time. great final any way awesome problems!!!

[@j.masonbrown6216]

Yeah whoever ran this competition needs to really get better with technology.

[@YOitsKEL]

love alannah's commentary, have to say after a rather unenjoyable semi-final commentary it was refreshing and lovely to hear.

[@jakesevins5179]

I'm very appreciative that IFSC makes these videos available for free on youtube, and I'm very impressed by the professional quality commentary by the indefatigable Charlie Boscoe. But the directors in these things are uniformly bad... why cut away from a climber who's about to dyno for the top and instead show us a close-up of the other person's elbow? This happens SO many times it can't be on accident

[@GabrieleBonetti]

Miho nonaka invalid top was a rule applied in a stupid way in my opinion. Complete control was well demonstrated, could have have hanged there for 10 seconds with the left hand only. I think rules should allow this.

[@pierrotmoon1]

Yep, the tape on the little hold only was clearly to avoid climbers topping by just touching the yellow volume from beneath. The move she did was the one she was supposed to do. I know why she wasn't awarded the top, but it's still feels very unfair when you demonstrate control.

[@GabrieleBonetti]

exactly. I know it's hard to cover every possiblity with rules, but judges should have a tiny amount of freedom in applying them

[@pierrotmoon1]

This is the hypocrisy to have human judges there to take decisions, and fail to deliver a fair judgment. Like the clock reset for Mei: the clock resets with 12 seconds, Mei tops in the next 4-5 seconds, and doesn't get awarded the top. They don't need the clock to make sure 5 isn't 12 wtf was that technical failure bs ? I'm sorry I'm getting triggered by the inhumanity of the rules taking over this sport which always had a great spirit. If this is the cost to pay to see climbing in the Olympics, fuck the Olympics and whoever take these decisions.

[@GabrieleBonetti]

pierrotmoon1 yeah, that episode is even more complicated because there is the time issue and camera not showing clearly if he controlled the last hold or not. 4 min + as it was would simplify the judges work so much.

[@jonpwoodward]

Who directed this, and what do they have against the women climbers? It would've been pretty cool to see (for example) any part of Coxsey's top on W3 except the last move (in the distance, behind Kruder).

[@chrible93]

1:53:48 "Got any beyda?" haha Charlie's American accent cracked me up!

[@bordeloup]

Could we see more of the women next time?????

[@DanieleMonchiero]

Sorry but... the last top of Janja??? In general, terrible directing.

[@koala8313]

Actually the topping rule about touching the hold on top of the volume in these scenarios is pretty stupid. I feel really bad for Miho on W1. If they stick the volume then it's obvious they've stuck the hold, especially when the move to the volume is the hard bit, not the actual hold. It's kind of like just punishing them for no reason. Equally unfair last week with Jongwon chong.

[@KW-ub9lz]

I was shocked they set ANOTHER problem with the top hold on a volume after last weeks M4 fiasco. But here we are again. At least they used a different color this time. Poor Miho. She really deserved that top too.

[@laxrulz7]

Agreed with both. I'm glad it didn't matter in the final results though. She would have finished third with that completed so the result didn't change. Hopefully they learn (although this week it sounds like they did make a point of mentioning it to the climbers so Miho is a little more at fault here).

[@blurpderp5826]

The tape denoting the finish doesn't even touch the screw-on. Since it terminates on the volume it would suggest that the volume is the last hold. I don't understand how she couldn't contest that.

[@basu826]

Completely agree with you, not healthy for the sport imo, feels so arbitrary.

[@katrinacake]

Love Alana's commentating, great effort! And absolutely loving the figure of four from Jain. Dun like the 4 min flat. Climbers tend to give up much earlier on.

[@ginachen8460]

Was there ever any footage shown of Janja topping W4?

[@TDWu]

IFSC really should have regulation about how the cameras cover the athletes on the boulder.

[@SlimTim10]

Quite poor camera work. Too many closeups and favoring of the men. Glad I didn't have to pay for this.

[@laxrulz7]

I wonder if it's cultural. It seems like the ones in America almost always favor the women when there's a conflict. They showed with the double of Kruder and Coxsey that they have two cameras to show a replay. Did they simply not show Janja's because they were finished? Or because the other camera wasn't actually on her?

[@austinlokey]

Another amazing comp! The Men's scores really put an interesting twist on the overall scores making it so much more exciting! As much as I'm rooting for Chon it's cool the Narasaki is back in the race and Watabe may even be closing in to pull an underdog victory! In the Women's it's amazing to see Janja storm to the top of the competition ladder keeping Coxsey on her toes! Wow, what an awesome two climbers to have competing.

[@GamingVids1984]

Jain Kim with the coolest move of the competition: 2:00:18

[@DavisFamilypics]

0:59:49 no offense charlie, but you're wrong. There is no added excitement with the new 4 minute rule, you're thinking of a different word: panic. The audience isn't more excited as the clock comes close to zero, they're panicking at the thought that the climber won't get the top, even if the climber deserves it. The new four minute rule isn't exciting, and it sure as heck ain't entertaining. It takes the fun out of climbing; it takes the hope out of the last try. It also means less climbing in general, and when you want to take climbing out of a climbing competition then something is wrong with your thought process. IFSC really needs to rethink their priorities here, because they're not caring for the climbers or the audience with this new rule.

[@richardfredlund3802]

davisfamily, I kind of agree with you. My view is that the time in the bouldering and lead should be long enough not to be the primary issue for climbers. There's nothing more fustrating as a viewer than watching a great climber reach the top and not be rewarded. Case in point Mio's climb, she clearly topped that boulder, the small minded pedants are clearly missing the point. It's extremely discouraging for climbers when the judgement is unfair, as the climber has essentially achieved the target and still are unrewarded. Speed climbing is a completely different discipline (and as far as I'm concerned no where near as interesting to watch ) my great concern is that an over emphasis of speed will creep into the other disciplines. The core essence of lead climbing is to top a route. Sure if two people top it can come down to time, but how fast is insignificant compared to did they top it, because that's the aim in the first place. Time is almost incidental, except for practical issues, like we don't want to wait 3 hours while they sit on the wall.

[@richardfredlund3802]

who you want to see on the podium is who climbs the best,... anything else is a fail. So the pedants really need to consider that greater context.

[@richardfredlund3802]

when they get it wrong they're basically flushing that climbers work/achievement down the drain, it's like eviscerating it. It's very bad -- it's an abuse of power.

[@h_3862]

Janja is flipping beast

[@again7pyms]

omg they are JUST NEXT TO EACH OTHER, why they can't just move the camera a liiiittle bit so that we can actually se both???!! jeeez..

[@jmetallicad]

1:02:11 Charlie is talking about KIM Jain's almost top, saying that these are the moments that prove the validity of the rule change.... *facepalm. Yet another moment from Charlie that proves how out of touch he is with the climbing community. This situation is EXACTLY why we all want a 4+ rule of some kind reinstated! Imagine how great a moment it would have been to watch KIM work the finish move for another 30 seconds until she figured it out. What we really want out of these competitions is to watch top athletes use their bodies AND minds to solve interesting climbing problems, not rush a clock. That's what speed climbing is for.

[@jmetallicad]

Charlie even talks about how good it was to watch Shauna figure the finish move out just two climbers later...when she had 3 minutes to figure it out because she flashed the first move...

[@laxrulz7]

I hope they simply move to something like 4 + 15 or something. I understand they don't want Margo up there for ten minutes resting and shaking out. But having climbers at the top have to rush a last move isn't good climbing and isn't good TV IMO. Give them 4 minutes + an extra 15 seconds if they're above the start holds when it hits 4:00. That seems like a perfectly reasonable approach.

[@jmetallicad]

I agree, and think they could even go as far as a +1 minute. It seems like the main issue they had is with a 4+ there was no set time for each attempt so climbers weren't getting even rests and it was hard for event planners, blah blah blah. If they really cared about even rests they wouldn't send the next pair out early when two climbers flash or climb their problems quickly. If it was either a set 4 minutes (if climbers are not above the holds at the end of time) or 5 minutes for each pair, scheduling would be relatively easy and the climbers would all have even rest times. And if you had competent, interesting commentators they would easily be able to fill any dead time with interesting facts and you could examine close up shots, replays, etc. I don't think it really is that hard, I mean LT11 seems to have it figured out pretty well and they put their streams up for free...

[@bauul.]

Totally agree. A 4+1 minute rule would ensure no-one was too rushed without the scheduling problems the IFSC are clearly worried about occuring in the Olympics.

[@waoasada]

Implicit IFSC rule; female climbers whose height is less than 160cm are not recommended to participate in the bouldering competitions. kim:153cm kotake:154cm onoe:158cm nonaka:162cm coxey163cm janja:164cm

[@renatocorvaro9478]

Would've liked to have seen Janja's top on the W4.

[@DeanMerchant]

This was horrible to watch. The number of athletes that are completing problems only to have them disallowed is really frustrating. Changing to 4 minutes flat was a really poor choice.

[@simon.rabatin]

Worst camerawork since a long time. But thanks for providing a livestream I can shout at anyhow.

[@Selfreplyingbot]

Why there is no one in this world cups able to use a camera 🎥?! It’s so bad ! At least the moderator is the best !

[@mapi5032]

I really appreciate providing the stream (and for free!). But with all the rule changes (especially the 4 minute rule) strange matching problems (the difficulty of the boulder should NOT be a trivial match on a micro-hold.) and issues with the clock, skewing the results. At the moment watching the finals has too many cringe worthy moments, anti-climaxes and decisions that induce too much anger, so i really don't enjoy it anymore. So you have lost a viewer.

[@robloxrulezzz]

Wow, so the new 4 minute rule is to prevent climbers from having uneven rests and to make regularity, but the masses of technical issues meant that some climbers are getting more than 10 minutes extra rest anyway, so what is the point?! And with 4minutes+1 there would be regularity and even rests, as long as climbers waited the full 5 minutes so strict 4 minutes seems unnecessary. Another awful moment to watch as someone (cant remember who) topped 1 second after the time limit and got absolutely no recognition for it, he might as well have just only gotten to the bonus and fallen, i thougt the whole point of bouldering was to be slow and methodic and think about each move, since when is it a speed competition?

[@NotQuiteFirst]

Stop being sensible, the IFSC don't care what you have to say

[@austinlokey]

lol

[@GabrieleBonetti]

I'm with you thinking that is against the sport spirit to force people to face a countdown in this way but I also think ifsc does care, the voice of the community must be strong as we did for the paywall on the live streaming. my only concern is that is not possible anymore to change the Olympic format and the 4 minutes dead rule is written in stone now.

[@capharnaum_urbain5732]

That 4 minutes rule really sucks, but in my opinion what sucks even more, is that they didn't do it for the sport purpose, it's only to be more square, so the event is perfectly timed and it's easier for TV distribution, or to fit that discipline into an event program (as maybe for olympics)...

[@ElSachinoo]

I suppose you could include speed of problem solving as a variable

[@brewsdalton6243]

We'd rather see Alanah compete in the finals but she was a great commentator. Well done.

[@climbhigh777]

miho was robbed on womens 2

[@drmindriot]

this one was amazing, one of the best world cups you can see. Keita was a monster & Shauna was a smoke show.

[@virxbmc]

What an absolute disgrace of an event. Couldn't see half of the tops and no replay of Janja at the end.

[@Nico-hb1to]

Great coverage! Entertaining and interesting commentating! Nice to have the words from athletes and route setters as well beforehand

[@CuNimb]

So basically, a men's bouldering comp with the women doing something in the background. What;s up with the coverage?

[@lowestCommonDenominator]

Oh shit I didn't know Jain Kim bouldered. Since when?

[@jmmanuelmeier6687]

MOVE OF THE NIGHT! 2:00:23 !!

[@algenpfleger]

IFSC you are killing this sport. Here's the solution you apparently can't figure out on your own: Either make entire volume the Top, or use a hold directly screwed to the wall, with no volume. There's absolutely no value added by narrowing it to that tiny screw on on a volume. Whoever sticks that volume quite obviously can stick the screw on too, so all you're doing is adding an unfair element of chance of whoever sees that tiny thing in the heat of the moment. It makes it so much less enjoyable to watch. And this isn't even mentioning the 4 minute rule.

[@zarahg9802]

Does anybody know why they introduced the 4 min flat rule instead of 4 min plus?

[@laxrulz7]

Consistency in timing both for the event as a whole and between climbers.

[@bauul.]

Likely preparing for the Olympics. They like regular, timed events so TV networks can more easily schedule showtimes. The old 4+ rule, theoretically, could lead to huge variations in the times climbers had. Why they didn't just cap the "extra" time at 1 minute (for example) instead of getting rid of it all together is anyone's guess.

[@ariannebalderstone4936]

Alexey rubstov is the tallest Jan hojer is second and Jacob Schubert is 3rd

[@isaacmuller-wild9599]

How many people have to miss the top match???

[@snkgofsjkngodfrkngldf]

Miho best girl

[@fabianrudberg]

Wasn't Kruder's flash on boulder two illegit, didn't he miss to match the last hold? Look at 1:08:05.

[@androgynousmaggot9389]

W1 massively favours the taller climbers! Kotake, even with the run, couldn't reach it! Does any of the judges have a portable stopwatch? In case the official clock just stops working! Also, on the small jib on W1, does a hand over the other count as matching? Do you have to physically touch it with both hands? Those rules are pretty vague! The point is topping the boulder in 4 min and secure it!

[@Jay-Niner]

I know I’m catching up late but this stupid practice of having confusing finish holds needs to stop. There is nothing added in terms of challenge or complexity and it comes at significant risk of confusion. Bad route setting

[@TheReykjavik]

They should use different colored tape if it is a bolt on for the top. Just a last minute reminder.

[@krneki1070]

Why we didn't see Janja Garmbret boulder no.4 mr. Director of editing?

[@Ludix147]

damn I really want to go to Nanjing now!

[@RedTurboMr2]

lol, they don't know how to count down 12 secs without a clock? That's messed up. She completed that challenge, you guys stole it from her.

[@Kkkkk-rf3eg]

Got to say... 4min rule is ridiculous. Rushing to climb could be dangerous, 'cause it makes climbers nervous about the time and could make them unwary during the climbing. The chance of hurting is potentially increasing; besides, the point of climbing is to figure out the best way to solve problems and use our body efficiently to achieve that goal. It is not a racing game that someone should take the time element into consideration. No one has ever said "hurry up you are on the wall for too long so you are terrible at climbing and your effort doesn't count" to me in my life.

[@ellieyu5846]

Kailun Fan I completely agree. The 4 min+ rule would be fine as long as there's only one additional minute, it would still keep the climb within a reasonable time span.

[@Rykvp]

1:17:14 "Trivia question : how many world cup gold medalists have also won gold in an other climbing discipline ... we've got ... Adam Ondra, Sean McColl, Jacob Shubert, Jorg Verhoven ... I'm pretty happy with those 4. Any women ? I don't think so ..." What to say ?!? This is recorded the 30th of April ... You've got Janja Garnbret right under your nose ... Come on ... What happened the week before ? In Chongqing ... Well here it is : first Bouldering gold for Janja April 23rd 2017, after sweeping 2016 lead season. And just to show it wasn't so hard to find another women, you could have picked Jain Kim (also under your nose, won Milano boulder in 2011, Queen of lead), Sandrine Levet (5 gold in lead, 17 in boulder), Mina Markovic (20 in lead, 2 in boulder), Liv Sansoz (11 in lead, 1 in boulder), Natalija Gros (1 in lead, 2 in boulder). And I'm probably missing some. Plus Jorg Verhoven only won in lead as far as I can tell

[@Baterodalo]

I dont understand anything about this and rules and etc, i just enjoy watching , but is there any dificulty diference betwen mens course and womans course ? to me womens course looks more dificult

[@joehenshall8735]

Can you not have half the screen on each competitor

[@drewharris7785]

What's with the sound?

[@ellieyu5846]

I was so mad about miho not matching the top

[@kim98677]

When something goes wring in these events absolutely EVERYTHING goes wrong. Miho got robbed and so did Mei. Terrible

[@kentcan46]

Missing the whole winning problem of Shauna Coxey because of focusing on a guy not in contention. Nice one.

[@icguy]

anyone knows why they changed the time control?

[@ellieyu5846]

thatwhichidesire Possibly because climbing will be part of the Olympics, and the 4 min+ rule would lead to a lot of variation in the competition time. It's difficult to arrange tv coverage when there's no definitive time for the competition. I hope I answered your question well.

[@FreeeeStyleee]

shity 4min rule ... not that much fun to watch only negativ aspects are showing up ....

[@BriBoyVidz]

Synchronized jump at 1:42:42

[@johnmorrell3187]

look, I think based on the dozens of minutes of confused technical fault overtime in this video IFSC should consider doing a rewrite of these rules and regulations and maybe a change in standards for tournaments. Imagine if this was how the olympic climb went down like this. It wouldn't look good.

[@razz0404]

Where is noguchi

[@adam_nykali]

❤

[@jordantimlin1761]

would be nice to see alex puccio in this flashing women's 1. But of course no usa

[@artnemiz1]

Women's Problem #2 would have been exciting if not because of the new 4 min rule

[@earlgrey2130]

I think IFSC really need to start to make use of split screens in their videoproduction. While it's nice to see detail shots, the crowd and everything else.. i feel like i'm missing a lot of moments i wanted to see. In many cases i'd love to have a split screen with both climbers on each side. Or you could focus on one, make that person full screen, but have the other one in a smaller window so i can still get what's going on if i care more for the other climber. Or they could keep a wide shot of the boulder problem and have a smaller window pop up that shows a detail shot (like hands on a really tough crimp or something).. Sure.. it would take some effort, but i thinkt that's the way to go to cover these events the right way.

[@laxrulz7]

Agreed. The other thing I'd really like to see is a detailed flyover of each route so that we can see how small some of these crimps are. There are definitely holds that I look at and think, "Why are they having such trouble" and then 5 minutes later on a different climber I realize, "Oh... the wall is more sloped than I realized and that hold is smaller than it looks." Replace some of the chatter at the beginning of each production (30 minutes of useless time) with a walk through of the routes.

[@bauul.]

I believe in this case the IFSC has no control over the camera work - that's down to the local media. If they had the funds to hire all their own camera guys and directors to do it all themselves I'm sure it'd be better, but I suspect they don't.

[@ryanrutledge4946]

That bolt on on womens 1 is silly, the tape is not even touching the hold. I think the setters need to do a better job of makking the finishing holds less, well stupid. Its a tiny bolt on hold, shauna only matched one hand over the other, which technically is still only 1 hand on the finish hold. Either way, the entire volume should be on, no reason for just the boolt on to be the finish, other than to CAUSE confusion. Silly

[@ryanrutledge4946]

In addition wtf was womens 2 with Mei?? She absolutely topped it. The clocks may have reset but we live in a time where cameras exist and what do you know theres about 20 looking at her. Any sort of look at the replay shows she topped it. Ridiculous, come on..

[@laxrulz7]

matching hands is matching the hold

[@ryanrutledge4946]

Jeff, I understand the technicalities of the rule, however these are professional route setters who should aim to avoid confusion like this in their climbs. If you were to put that final climb in any gym with a serious route setting crew, they would know to finish on the volume, not a one hand jib. That being said, the rest of the climbs looked good, but that one part shouldve been different.

[@laxrulz7]

Oh I agree. I think there's two issues. One, communication to the athletes (apparently they DIDN'T tell the athletes last week and one something like this that should be an important FYI... they corrected that this week which is one of the reasons I have less sympathy for Miho) and two, route setting. I don't mind if the finish is on a jib (though marking it with a box around the jib rather than a line that sort of vaguely points TO the jib would be better IMO). But ONLY if that actually makes the route more difficult. In this case, the jib is actually BETTER than the volume. So matching to the volume is not "easier" then matching to the jib... in fact, it might be slightly harder. So nothing is gained by forcing them to do this. That being said, Miho (and all the girls) were told this was the route finish method. I expect professionals to adhere to those kinds of things.

[@gia257]

i disliked more that the routes were very biased against the short people

[@fbimagesphoto]

Noob question: why is there several finals of the same category a year? 2017 Nanjing and Chongqing? No hate please, just want to understand the format.

[@carolscab]

Hi Felix. This is due to the comps being part of a circuit. the World Cup consists of a number of competitions in which there is a qualification, a semi-final and a final round. Climbers can win one comp and thereby obtain points for the total World Cup. Much like in alpine skiing. This is separate from the World Championships, which is a single comp (still with quali, semis and finals). You'll be able to see all the current standings in the rankings provided by the IFSC www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/rankings

[@fbimagesphoto]

Hi Carlos, Thank you for taking time to clarify things, it makes perfect sense. I will have a look at the website. Have a good day, Félix

[@yangxu4830]

Somebody knows why there isn't american team? Such as Ashima or Alex they are such good climbers.

[@simon.rabatin]

Because free roaming capitalism.

[@nomadtrails]

I think its so annoying that they go at the same time. You miss so much action that way...

[@boosomentity]

the woman's climbs are obviously discriminatory of shorties

[@David-go4ot]

Shauna looks so cute with her visor

[@Kim-ne8rq]

1:07:18 why those ponytails?

[@julienhuxley4172]

Wtf is wrong with the commentator, stop kissing iFSCs ass, getting rid of the 4+ minute rule sucks, stop trying to make us buy it

[@pieceofpecanpie]

The rule change is as terrible as the camera work.

[@fiendsfootage]

Only part-way through P2 and 4min is bloody awful again.

[@und1944]

아니 점프해도 안닿는 거리를 설정해놓으면 어쩌라는건데ㅡ 장난하는 것도 아니고 김자인 선수 저번에도 아예 첫단계부터 점프해도 안닿는거 때문에 포기하고 들어갔는데 이번에도 또 그러네

[@briandickey4276]

The 4 minute rule isn't just bad (people giving up with 20 seconds left), but it's dangerous. People with just a few seconds left are going to do desperate things that they wouldn't do otherwise and really hurt themselves.

[@vascoferreira4891]

1 camera 2 guys pls

[@lechatvenere]

No footage of Jarnja last top ??? What the hell is that crap ?? And please, STOOOOOOOOP changing every 10s camera angle to another... We are not in a movie !! Just stay focus on the boulder itself, not on the tatoos, trademarks, fingernails or creepy faces of climbers...

[@roberth4395]

Le Chat Vénère Agree :/

[@defeatedskeptic311]

You do understand that the IFSC did not do the filming of this event? It was done independently by China, so the IFSC was simply commentating over the footage that they were given.

[@lechatvenere]

You do understand that I'm not particularly yealing at IFSC ?? Where did I say it ? Please tell me !! And I perfectly ear what the commentator says multiple times during the competition, thank you, I'm neither dumb nor deaf. And the fact that it is China who did the job is not an excuse. If China want to record the footages, they have to be pro, from the begining to the end, and we didn't see the whole competition, that's a fact !

[@defeatedskeptic311]

Le Chat Vénère You are being needlessly agressive with me; I just wanted to make sure that you did not think it was the IFSC doing the filming. I do not know why the competition was held in China, but it is likely that the IFSC has noticed the poor quality of the footage and that is why they mention it so frequently throughout the event. It is too late to change where these competitions were going to be held.

[@soulcalibar3]

jarnaj didnt get the last top you fucking halfwit troglodyte barbarian

[@heathercrotty3864]

Charlie you should research the term beta. It's roots are quite American.

[@bauul.]

On the other hand, the word is ancient Greek, so you could argue regardless of where the term related to climbing comes from, the pronunciation is just going to be however that country pronounces Beta.

[@fuzzycounsellor9147]

Horrible editing, but you already know that. It's gotten slightly better in the future, but still 2 people at the same time is an idiot idea & remains the so now. Reminds me of music videos where they do a close up of the singer while the guitar player is playing the the lead solo. Are camera operator & editors really this dense? I guess the obvious answer is yes they really are.

[@1andonlynathan]

Mmmhhhmm

[@HilleCine]

Sick of the announcer pushing the flat 4 agenda for his masters. The climbers and fans hate it.

[@simenkroslid2855]

imo. The best climber is the one solving the problem quickest and therefore the 4 min rule works just fine

[@Kkkkk-rf3eg]

背景音的主持人好碎烦😂

[@yanivan1449]

the chinese narrator is absolmemnt not prefesional

[@algenpfleger]

It's just unwatchable with this new 4 min rule. Turned it off half way through. And Charlie, you are out of touch or were told to defend this stupid rule that the IFSC know is unpopular.

[@ChrysusTV]

Skipping this one. Absolutely garbage competition management. Don't care if it's regulation. That just means the policy writers need to have their heads checked or be terminated.

[@furanciesuko]

This is the worst direction for an IFSC competition I have ever seen. It seemed not to be interested in what is going on the right side of the stage. Always part of the bodies of the athlets out of the screen. Awful!

[@inoken327]

Francesco Poletti I think so, too.

[@NotQuiteFirst]

The coverage seemed very biased to the male climbers, very often the female climber would be climbing or even topping and we wouldn't see it at all. Especially not even seeing a replay of Garnbret's #4. Almost no effort made to show both climbers on the screen at the same time.

[@jokepp]

I thougt it was well done! There were several shots I really enjoyed. And when they missed something important, there was always a replay :)

[@Murdog83]

While you are most probably correct, Francesco, it is always important to remember that when in China the IFSC is relying on the local media to provide the feed/direction. I personally am grateful that I am even able to watch the competition at all.

[@KW-ub9lz]

I'm grateful too, but remember this is the product the IFSC wanted to charge us for. It's not like China would have let FloSports do the filming and broadcasting in Nanjing or Chongquing. They will eventually figure out a business model that works in a format somebody is willing to pay for...but it's sure not going to be this.

[@FlecheDeFer]

Miho could have won this competition, she obviously did W1, either the rule is stupid or the judges are too "by the book", but that was clearly not anything like sport! And Alannah is as good a commentator as she is pretty (that should tell you how good she is).

[@BoulderProblems]

In my opinion, there is way too much falling and not much climbing. I think the problems should be more movement based.

[@DIYToPen]

Rock&Ride I think lead climbing might be up your alley...

[@MrTheseaker]

Great so W2 takes over 2 mins for the best female climber in the world. Glad with the new 4 min if she fell at the end she would have missed it. PLEASE GET RID OF THE 4 MIN RULE!!

[@sotmars5875]

I hope sports climbing is only a demonstration sport at Tokyo 2020 and not included at further Games, I'd rather see Ninja Warrior in the Olympics.