IFSC Climbing World Cup Arco 2017 - Lead - Finals - Men/Women

[@pinetree6747]

Timestamps Women’s 19:57 Ashima Shiraishi USA 26:26 Molly Thompson Smith GBR 30:07 Anne Sophie Koller SUI 37:00 Jessica Pilz AUT 43:14 Julia Chanourdie FRA 48:57 Jain Kim KOR 57:08 Anak Verhoeven BEL 1:03:35 Janja Garnbret SLO Men’s 1:10:27 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 1:16:31 Keiichiro Korenaga JPN 1:22:39 Jakob Schubert AUT 1:30:50 Hannes Puman SWE 1:34:52 Thomas Joannes FRA 1:39:04 Max Rudigier AUT 1:44:32 Adam Ondra CZE 1:51:13 Alexander Megos DEU

[@CCMrJones]

Stasa's commentary is always so on-point, love it!

[@wombatlover2796]

I love the way Jain Kim climbs, she is my favourite modern day climber !!!!

[@KuroNekoIX]

I just love watching Kim Jain climbs. It's just so interesting seeing her analyze and execute each move with such confidence and precision. Also, it seems like she always find a flow, making every routes that she climb look so effortless.

[@RonaldoMessina]

WOMEN (men below) ------------------------------------------------ Ashima SHIRAISHI 0:19:50 Molly THOMPSON-SMITH 0:26:25 Anne-Sophie KOLLER 0:29:50 Jessica PILZ 0:36:50 Julia CHANOURDIE 0:42:55 Jain KIM 0:48:43 Anak VERHOEVEN 0:57:00 Jajna GARNBRET 1:03:23 MEN ------------------------------------------------ Yoshiyuki OGATA 1:10:00 Keiichiro KORENAGA 1:16:01 Jakob SCHUBERT 1:22:10 Hannes PUMAN 1:30:10 Thomas JOANNES 1:34:34 Max RUDIGIER 1:38:58 Adam Ondra 1:43:58 Alexander MEGOS 1:50:55

[@simvoli]

That's a flash ^^. Thank You!

[@beachbraids6747]

Climbing starts at 19:57

[@BrunoMalherbe]

Seriously pissed by the 6 minutes rule, to see such a smooth climber like Jain Kim being forced to rush through her climb like that was just sad... It's just not enough.

[@xc43t]

true, semifinals should be timed aggressively, but finals should allow for different styles/ paces of climbing to shine

[@BoulderProblems]

If I remember correctly, Jain has timed out in the past when the timer was 8 minutes. I love to watch her climb, but she does climb slow. I bet all the athletes will adapt to the new time limit and start climbing faster and put on a good show. Can the setters climb the routes under 6 minutes, I would guess yes.

[@BrunoMalherbe]

I get that, but in this case the problem is that they had some world cups with more than one top, and they had to start setting harder routes, but harder routes are slower to climb, so if you make it harder AND put a 6 minutes timer, you get this kind of event, where the two winners have like three or four moves that don't even count in their win, it's a bit silly... Of course it will take some adaptation but if they make easier routes to compensate, then it becomes speed climbing, and not hard lead climbing where you have to manufacture rests, save your energy, think and if needed rethink the moves you have in mind. I don't wanna see athletes running towards the top.

[@leoingson]

None of the setters can redpoint a worldcup route. Else they would climb in the worldcup.Check out setting of the hardest indoor route in Stockholm.

[@BrunoMalherbe]

They still seem to be able to find what works and doesn't, but this new 6 minutes rule makes their work even more complex, and it must be tough figuring it out. And the result is just sad, at least so far :/

[@anosnd]

6 minutes really punishes patience, control and intelligent climbing which are hallmarks of lead climbing. Why would they do that?

[@DeepRafterGaming]

exactly my thought and I don't get it either.

[@VramsGamingChannel]

The time limits are the worst.

[@psirenvct]

A bit disapointed, the timer was way too short ...

[@allezdobong2294]

Routes were too hard too, there are 5.14b~c.

[@mats9435]

Rip Megos

[@RonaldoMessina]

without his yellow t-short he is like Samson without hair :-J

[@abandonedchaos145]

Anne really had a beautiful save, it's to bad she lost it, I believe it's because she stole a look at the clock and counted bringing her focus away from the holds. All in all very well climbed!

[@neiladlington950]

Interesting that although Ashima didn't make the podium, a rarity, her score of 32+ did. Never fails to impress.

[@НиколайТарбаев-к1к]

Why no awards ceremony even in replay?

[@johapet]

The 6 minute rule is stupid and counterproductive. This is lead climbing not speed bouldering. Give the climbers some time to show their talents instead of timing them out!

[@dariocarafa3788]

Julia chanourdie Belayer almost decked her. It almost looks like he was just a foot or two from having her hit the ground pretty hard that was a long fall

[@benjaminpanknin2591]

Ogata chalked more times on that route than I did in my entire life :P

[@DasUberCow]

Ashima is the cutest and most impressive climber!

[@aladeenmadafaka6286]

6 min sucks. boulderist got 4 min to one boulder...omg

[@FlecheDeFer]

Speed climbing is already a joke, why trying to tend to it with lead climbing?...

[@virxbmc]

3 Commentators vying for air time. Glad they kicked the third person out in the future. Also less interviews (2018+) is much better.

[@stefanofalero]

witness jain kim putting slides over her climbing shoes 0.0

[@qwertyuiop-cu2ve]

Adam just casually reaching out and grabbing the jug that everyone else had to jump for haha. What is his height?

[@fuzz6263]

bit late but 186 cm i believe

[@theoriginaldmac]

ondra sprints to the start lol

[@NightOwl91]

@IFSC: 6 min rule has to be one of the most stupid rules that has ever been invented! Nothing more annoying than seeing climbers that are doing well on the route being timed out. In lead climbing it should all be about difficulty, not speed...for that there is speed climbing.

[@r.b.4611]

Matching does not make you weak, such nonsense. It makes you good at matching! Also what the fuck Jain Kim was smashing the climb and got timed out?! Wtf dumb rules.

[@lifeimprovementbyjasper2951]

One day I hope to be as good as this.. Appearantly, I gotta learn to rush? I only recently uploaded my first outdoor rock climbing video.. Would love to get feedback on that video though, from anyone really! I want to improve my videos :)

[@monoman4083]

6 minute rule gives climbers a whole big dose of hurry up. this is not holywood...

[@hellsangel2005]

I dont believe Ashima is the youngest to climb 9a anymore. Im pretty sure an Italiam girl @ 12 years old climbed a 9a boulder problem a couple months ago

[@kaitsu1984]

Brandon Donaldson no, Nalle Hukkataival is the only one in the world to climb a 9a boulder.

[@giulianochianelli2109]

I think she was 14 years old ref: www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/03/grandi_gesti9a_by_laura_rogora-70296

[@dimi3378]

Yep the youngest girl to climb 9a is Laura Rogora now

[@fredweasley198]

34:44 omg

[@dweeder1453]

Who came up with this 6 minute rule? Do they even climb? Ruining the sport.

[@SnowmansApartment]

what does she mean by „asian genes“? 🤔

[@r.b.4611]

Just a guess, crazy idea...genes that are found in Asian populations? E.g. the genes that make that fold of skin appear on the medial portion of the eye socket, which gives asian peoples' their characteristic eyes?

[@frankh3057]

wow saving it

[@shaunlalani6441]

Migos lol

[@NickLiang]

What terrible route setting........

[@sergiolalopez3598]

Why did you interview the first climber during Molly Thompson climb? Really rude. You didn't even interview her wtf? Probably institutional racism 😴