🔥IFSC Women's Final World Cup INNSBRUCK Bouldering 2023

[@sebbosaurus8026]

The Routesetters this weekend: we don't like short climbers! ^^

[@TheTjeerd17]

The last problem with the toe hook is a bit tricky to judge, but the start on the first boulder was definitely more a power and technique issue than a height issue (Of course being short is a disadvantage on this sort of move, but i feel like people are too quick to judge the setters)

[@skip1860]

She clearly wasn't too short for the first one because she got it twice and the last one she just sucked at so boo hoo

[@mx2000]

@@TheTjeerd17It is literally a check of how high you can reach up with your hands from the mat. I don’t see how you could make it more height-dependent. And it adds nothing to the boulder, it’s not technically challenging, it has nothing to do with bouldering.

[@mondociaociao]

excuses, excuses, excuses.

[@mondociaociao]

​@@mx2000 what are you saying? most boulder athletes in Innsbruck height around 1.60-1.65 (janja is 1.64), only the little japanese Mori is 1.54 (is her problem). I would like to be a basket man but I'm "only" 1.80... do you want to change the sport because most people is not 2.00 mt? come on.

[@HerrFinsternis]

Of course I can't truly tell, but this comp felt really unfair towards the shortest climbers. Thanks for leaving in the Janja recap of W4 ✌️

[@Hubertus-ko6yl]

And unfair for heavy climbers too 🤫🤫

[@HerrFinsternis]

Of which there weren't any, but there were two climbers significantly shorter then the others. I imagined the could maybe heelhook in blue hold bit since nobody even looked at that I guess you can't. But the intended toehook leaves them so overextended (if they could could even make it into that position in the first place) it doesn't look like an option either. But hey, I know nothing. It's just how it looks to my amateur eyes.

[@skip1860]

Are you fucking crying about it

[@marinama5005]

​@@Hubertus-ko6yl That's a silly comparison since you can loose weight when you are too heavy, but can you still grow a little taller ?

[@hubblebublumbubwub5215]

It's also unfair towards climbers who aren't Janja Garnbret

[@mx2000]

Kinda annoying that Ai Mori just got straight up height checked at the first boulder. This really shouldn't happen in modern routesetting, there are already enough sports where height is an advantage. Good competition otherwise.

[@inerti4]

She grabbed it twice, meaning she was tall enough to do it. The final boulder tho, that toe-hook was definitely not designed for her 🤦🏻

[@mx2000]

@@inerti4 she was the only climber who had to single-hand grab it, making this significantly harder. W2 also had a jump, and W4 had the toehook extension. Might as well put up a sign “you must be this tall to compete” at the entry.

[@kurono122]

I agree, it didn't really seem fair to her really. I know sports are not meant to mean equality, but say if someone were shorter than Ai but a great climber. That really would be a handicap

[@VVashabi]

Maybe at 154cm you should train your jumps or give up professional climbing... Average female height is over 160cm, they can't compensate too much for outliers. Also she had advantage over others by being the lightest, so if you compensate for height do you do that for weight too?(And how?)

[@mx2000]

@@VVashabi she made it to finals, so obviously she is one of the best female climbers in the world. Advantages and disadvantages are one thing, but if the routesetters can simply kick you out of any competition whenever they feel like it by building a boulder that is simply physically impossible for people below a certain height (like the w4 toehook), then that isn't a fair competition anymore.

[@andieluke1366]

2:12 I highly appreciate the female commentator's gesture of correcting herself and referring to Ai as Mori Ai, using the Japanese naming convention of [surname] [given name], even if it is common practice to use [given name] [surname] in international sports for standarization. It's a simple act, but is a sign of respect for Mori Ai's culture, and speaks volumes of the commentator's character!

[@emilwandel]

I don't know. In Germany both ways are common Müller, Peter or Peter Müller. The commas sign the last name was written first.

[@realrebelli0n]

@@emilwandel we are talking about Japan though and not Germany.

[@reennadelp1350]

What’s really upsetting about the first boulder to me is that I doubt lowering the start would have changed the beta for anyone, so why make it start so high?

[@nikolaifomin3507]

first boulder not even bouldering, thats just super bias, bully and hate toward short people !

[@briseboy]

@@nikolaifomin3507 I hate being shot, as my blood leaks out of the resulting hole. But the first "problem" appears exactly like the "american ninja" business, without the trampoline. I notice that course setters this year are abandoning anything remotely like climbing in many cases. A men's boulder comp, somewhere on the circuit posed impossible angled horizontal running, with no hope of gripping or even slapping the completely sideways "holds" which had no opposing surface for side pulls. Let's just call it "coursesetters gone wild", and recognize it as cheap porn.

[@mx2000]

Btw, thanks for the edit. I feel like this is a really good length, concise but doesn’t feel rushed and still gives space to climbers reactions.

[@lazaroprod]

Could someone explain to the people who film these events that it's a problem if we can't see what the athletes are doing? Too many close ups at the wrong moment, even the commentators don't know what's going on

[@10freekie2]

Yeah missing the feet at the second boulder especially because they want the face close up every time was soo annoying. The feet movement was such an interesting part there..

[@kukukachu]

She absolutely deserves that gold. She KILLED every run with precision and completed everything with passion, focus and elegance.

[@logandw5971]

Annoying for Ai Mori ! I fee like the rout setters set some holders on purpose knowing she wont be able to reach. It sad that most of the girls have all holds whitin arms reach 😢 no fair !!

[@gapslip]

So completely weighted in Janja's favour. I felt so sorry for Ai Mori. There need's to be more well rounded boulder setters at this level of competition.

[@ZG0002]

Janja is unreal, the 3rd and 4th boulders being flashed was great to watch.

[@onesquirrel2713]

This is so cool to watch, even for someone like myself who can barely climb out of my own bed.

[@thomaskositzki9424]

Unsaked for advice: go and try out a Boulder Gym! I did very easy and easy routes for 4 years before getting into tryhard mode and still fully enjoyed it. Even at this level it is the best all-round body workout I can think of, back problems be gone! 😃👍

[@race2mars]

Go try it, you'll have a blast trust me!

[@B0K1T0]

Been bouldering (and climbing in general) for years now, sometimes more often than other times and it never gets old for me. Such a wonderful community as well, at least in Europe from what I've experienced, but I think it's quite universal :)

[@fvm_6464]

The height here is a huge bonus, which is not fair. Interesting to see Janja in the same position like Ai Mori, when you need to be a good jumper instead of climber))

[@ANDanotherOne32]

Mori Ai's technique for boulder 4 is soooooo cool (regardless of zone). Only one who thought of it and it was so smooth. Savage 🤙

[@B0K1T0]

29:59 ah I was completely living this and felt so relieved she made it in time (or so I thought for a few seconds 😭)

[@thomaskositzki9424]

Got sweaty hands just from watching! 😯 Just AWESOME performances!😃👍

[@take8005]

It would be interesting to see how it would go if the problem was adapted to the height of each person

[@silentsandwind]

small people would win cos they have less body weight to carry. Brooke would own everyone.

[@SovereignsGreed]

Thanks for uploading these Comps.

[@Taykorjg]

I really don't like these boulders at all. It's like "Oh the tallest person is probably going to make it and the shorter people will struggle a lot" Which happened. Wasn't suprised at all by the results. Is this really a competition at this point? Why make these young athletes go through this?

[@1877Pegasus]

Totally. It's supposed to be climbing, not jumping

[@fvm_6464]

Agree, not fair

[@marckirby7356]

No ones making anyone

[@myka788]

Its a shame!! I wonder if they are just trying to get cool camera shots at this point. It's more like a climbing/parkour hybrid. Seems that climbing technique is on the back burner.

[@Taykorjg]

@@Neomalthusiano No I don't get it because it's literally the second best women's sport climber in the world not even able to start a boulder problem. It wasn't even that the problem had very difficult moves, it's just impossible. I'd imagine being a sports guy as well you'd appreciate the athletes' feats of athleticism.

[@MrPainfulTruth]

I dont even understand how one can argue here about what one athlete needs to add or how much of a difference 4 cm make. That is couch warrior talk. The bottom line for me is the route setters did a really poor job on multiple boulders and if this continues we might lose some of the best and most inspiring climbers out there. It is absolutely unneccessary to force a minimum height. Whats next? You need to have a certain weight so the boulder gives in a bit?

[@sallywatson2679]

janja garnbret is 10cm taller than Ai Mori not 4cm, my couch is very comfy thanks

[@matteospinsanti2435]

come on, put the start at 3.10, so only very tall girls can get there... it has nothing to do with climbing.

[@lihanrui]

The wasn't much to see here. Short people might as well not compete. Boring competition.

[@tomriddle2257]

Where is the unfair part? The jump of the first boulder? If not, then please give a minute mark so that I know what you speak about.

[@tsesck2008]

As long as Garnbret is there, everyone else is just hoping to get a silver. She is just like Bolt in track and field

[@thomaskositzki9424]

I don't mind because she is such a sympathetic person! World Rallye Championship in the 2000's and 2010's was being dominated by an emotionally completely cold dude. Would hardly smile when winning a race, didn't show any emotions at all. I hated him for being so detached. Here I feel nothing but sympathy!

[@briseboy]

Nuts to Bolt. a gaint, with 95% fast-twitch muscles. Janja is pretty much the same height as all other female competitors, as you saw when lined up.

[@rizkyadiyanto7922]

she lost to AI Mori

[@sallywatson2679]

Does anybody else think they deliberately made this boulder course so Mori Ai had no chance to win? Surely the course should be set so everybody has a fair chance to top out? This was physically impossible for Mori Ai to complete, no matter how long or how many attempts she had. I remember a lead comp last year and the first hold was so high, three or four competitors could not even start! This has to be wrong.

[@gabrielle1341]

I totally agree. In boulder 4 it was obvious that the yellow volume was way too far for her. By the way, do you remember what comp this was or where it was ? I would like to see it.

[@benjamingretic6540]

@@gabrielle1341 it was in Innsbruck, austria

[@snefansson]

I don't think it was deliberate, I think they kinda go by average height when they judge if a boulder is doable. This is just speculation but this sport is still young (in relative terms) and has yet to see the full potential of its athletes. It MIGHT be that in the future you just can't reach podium if you're not a great talent AND tall. Sort of like in basketball(there are exceptions ofc). Again this is just speculation.

[@theobserver_224]

Let me ease your mind , ai mori had no chance of winning this boulder comp anyways .

[@sallywatson2679]

@@theobserver_224 yes you are right, Ai Mori could not win, the route setters made sure of that. I fully accept that janja garnbret is a fantastic climber and deserves her accolades. My problem is, IF she is so good and will always win why do they need to rig the course to her advantage? surly if she is so good, she would win anyway? even with a fair to all climber's route.

[@matteospinsanti2435]

what a bad planned competition. The competition shouldn-t be determined by the height of the starting position. Shame on those who defined the first bouder.

[@veerleverhagen]

I realise other people are into it but 'm really not enjoying this edit. With bits cut out all over the place, including between multiple attempts at the same boulder by a single athlete, it absolutely feels like we're in a hurry to get this over with. I really enjoyed last year's edit, it was longer but I did get to see something that actually made sense and built up some kind of tension.

[@williamfullmer857]

Thank you Bridget, this flow was perfect for my Sunday morning practice.

[@victoriabill9257]

wow, just wow - congrats janja, that was amazing!

[@zzclimber]

2nd time watch, Miho actually have a chance to win🥈 on 3rd boulder

[@kevinatok]

Thanks for editing and uploading!!!!

[@alexbulgaru2991]

Janja! Flawless victory! Perfect!

[@nikolaifomin3507]

What was the routesetters thinking on the first start ?! Like what the hell with that height ! superiority complex ?

[@Juubax]

OK... this first boulder is nearly the most stupid and unfair ever set...

[@couchpotatoe91]

I've never actively watched this sport, but just watching Janja on that first wall made me realize she is on a whole nother level compared to her competition. Insane!

[@ytpete2]

Was it bothering anyone else that on the first boulder they would always flash the "victory" lights when the climber only got one hand on the finish hold? I'd always thought you need two hands stabilized on the final hold for it to count. It seems weirdly distracting that the lights would start flashing before that moment, in the middle of the final move of the problem...

[@carina-nonbinary]

I was annoyed by that too. There's a lot of improvement to be made here

[@WeaselBeeH]

Thank you so much! I love watching these

[@Ludwighaffen1]

FYI, a lâcher is a french word meaning "to let go". It comes from gymnastics when athletes create momentum, let go of the bar, fly above it and then catch it again.

[@DonkeyClimbMedia]

Please check the description for the climbers' times! Men's final here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gHqynIN-l7iKm5I Cheers!😁

[@shayneclimbsrocks09]

i love how futaba ito's gear is all pink so cute!

[@beatewester4777]

Yeah - Janja is back 😍🤩😍🤩🤩

[@NightyBla]

32:00 the clocks don't lie but the clock has no milliseconds. So it was 0 but from 0:00.999 to 0:00.000 is nearly another second.

[@realrebelli0n]

No, when the clock shows 1, time is going from 1 to 0.001, and then 0 is actually 0.

[@yyyy-uv3po]

32:46 Spiderman would be proud of her

[@itsodiumchloride9516]

46:22 someone explain how Ai ever had a chance at doing this move? routesetters putting literal impossible problems for shorter climbers lmfao

[@juliat01]

Yesss, yessss, the queen is back!!!🤩

[@10freekie2]

What an emotional and exhilarating finals! From half a seconds too late to missing starting positions to amazing almost fall saves to the top…

[@dollsNcats]

How do you even get this good lol . I started over the summer and it’s not easy 🤣

[@lordbuckethead8502]

And as usual, the camera crew and director have no idea what they are doing. Please stop zooming in on their faces while they are climbing.

[@defnotanny]

This is the first time I am watching bouldering and I am already kind of upset that they made the first course so high, I feel like the course would not have suffered from being a tiny bit lower.

[@Ianmundo]

Miho is such a babe 😍 🇯🇵

[@AdonisGaming93]

As a old school parkour practitioner in the 2000s this commentator knows wassup. I've done lashes many times. It is hard to get distance with it so whenever athletes complete them like this it is a show of ability.

[@lvchengbin1409]

Would anyone like to explain to me the rule of ranking? Why does Natalia Grossman get the silver but Miho Nonaka gets the bronze when they have the same scores?

[@briseboy]

Countback. number of tries. Past ties have even been resolved by counting back into semis.

[@Nasbo50]

Perfect JANJA!

[@carina-nonbinary]

Note to the cutter: if there's tricky footwork we want to see it and not just the face lol

[@niravelniflheim1858]

32:29 Janja just casually recovers the wild swing that stumped Natalia and dashes to top, WOW! 😂

[@androgynousmaggot9389]

Comment for less edit (I enjoy all the comp, even with the cringe inducing commentary by Matt, but co-commentary is always interesting!) And I recommend/love for you to stream the semifinals Thanks for everything! I think we all massively appreciate what you do! 🤟 Ai is not only the shortest climber, but she has a negative ape index! That was evident on W3 in thesemifinals, where Brooke was able to span the two holds while Ai needed to crimp the screw hole! And yes, Ai definitely lacks dynamic movements, we can all agree on that, but if there's no physical way to reach a hold, it means setters did a bad job! I always say, "Go watch Ai bouldering at the Morioka-Iwate combined (2022) She just dominated in both categories!

[@itscharlieschannel]

Janja reminds me of my Uncle Jim. He used to flash in front of everyone.

[@unclepasha2718]

The Queen is back

[@leeyo4644]

💪💪💪❤❤❤

[@Triggerboy78]

The first boulder is a disgrace. It would have worked the same if it were 20cm lower and not fucking with the really short climbers. This is climbing not parcour. EDIT: wow.. and the last boulder as well... just look how close the top was for Janja... no way any of the shorter climbers would have got a chance to even reach it.

[@georgepace9797]

Hey they mentioned the stregth of the competition and said how hannah was missing. How come?

[@lill8537]

Hannah (in her Instagram) said she was not fully recovered from an illness and tried to power through this time and failed. She decided (rightly so) when she was knocked out of boulders to skip lead and head home to fully rest and recover.

[@CruiseWavy1388]

Ai Mori's dyno leshay move was actually so easy. When she swings you can see her knees almost touch the hold... so easy man

[@paradox...]

33:01 Other climbers: barely hang on to the top Janja: *hug *

[@long-long.]

yey the janja awards

[@MichaelSol96]

Hi, Janja es muy buena, pero obviamente tiene una gran ventaja sobre las demás... Su estatura.

[@АлександрЧеркисов]

Janja просто великолепна! Абсолютное превосходство

[@Anubis-Barstikar]

how did they determine the bronze and silver place since they both had same number of tops, zones and attempts ? Is it the time they needed to get the zones and tops ? If so they should show us the time I think

[@DonkeyClimbMedia]

In the case of having the same results during the finals they take in consideration the results in the semifinal. It’s very rare for that to happened but semifinals results are still important for that

[@leahcahoon6987]

This competition was unfair to short people. Even Natalia was too short.

[@chriswitter8067]

What the hell was that first move of W1? What did it serve, except as a test of height? W3... same problem. W4... same problem... I like to to see Janja win, but not simply because she's the tallest... At what point does the routesetting become biased? It's good that Janja also climbed so amazingly perfectly, or it would feel worse.

[@optimusprime9456]

6:17 - Red Bull knew exactly, where we will stare at, to place the logo behind =))

[@ceroorec2153]

9:18 "Nobody's really listening...right?" lol

[@gilbertcortez6081]

how much is the cash prize for the top 3 winners (gold, silver, bronze)?

[@nomadinbali7014]

Janja does Janja thing on W3. Doing what nobody else might do.

[@ИринаКалиева-о8п]

Яния королева!!!!!!!!!!!! нет равных

[@RandyHarris-k5g]

The Routesetters this weekend: we don't like short climbers! ^^

[@simonisenberg4516]

32:47 what even is gravity? :D

[@jeffreychongsathien]

If climbing doesn't introduce size classes like boxing and MMA, it'll end up like the NBA, or men's tennis.

[@SunnyMorningPancakes]

I think it might be less of a problem for lead, but definitely in bouldering. When one of the best women climbers in the world can't even start the boulder entirely because of their height it stops being a skill based competition.

[@jeffreychongsathien]

@@SunnyMorningPancakes Climbing needs to decide "What characteristics define the best individual climber relative to others in the group" and as much as possible normalize the other variables out of the equation. Right now, it's not even acknowledging the problem.

[@kesitron9302]

how did NBA and men's tennis end up?

[@jeffreychongsathien]

@@kesitron9302 Boring and stupid, where height (min 6ft 6 in) is overvalued.

[@Archihuman]

​@@SunnyMorningPancakes Brooke is only 4cm taller than Mori and she did it with ease. The trade off of being as light as a feather is that she lacks power, she can't have it both ways

[@youuuuuuuuuuutube]

32:46 I said wow

[@Selfreplyingbot]

Routesetter fails at best !

[@runchpanda8079]

30:40 OMG

[@jeffreychongsathien]

To be honest, I'm starting to think this whole "World Cup" and medal format thing might be inferior to a league format.

[@miloplayz7474]

It’s like twice the difficulty if you’re short. So unfair

[@niravelniflheim1858]

Whenever I saw "where is Ai Mori?!" in the comments on other videos I would wonder "why are they asking about the Russian KZbinr who does song covers?", and now I see my mistake! Oops. 😅 Both Ai Moris are great. 🥰

[@ingediana]

The first one is like a bad slapstick joke, when a tall bully hold a basket ball and oompa-lompa keep jumping up desperately to reach it. I thought it was a climbing competition not jumping competition;

[@civiSapper]

4 flashes

[@snowkracker]

I love watching Janja Garnbret.

[@nawwk79]

Janja is the Messi of women's climbing.

[@oceanbreeze9248]

Where did the scary fall of Natalia happen exactly? They were talking about it somewhere in the video.. 🤔

[@aerdraiochta]

I feel so bad for futaba :(

[@Nachtgrabb]

whats that song on 20:25?

[@mp7140]

Ai Mori is shorter of others clibers and if courses is afecting her. Only a blind can't to see that. When you are to short it is a disvantage.

[@precious813]

Learn to spell.

[@androgynousmaggot9389]

​@precious813 English is not everyone's first language!

[@dandieter3065]

What does it mean to get the zone hold ?

[@AidenDesJames]

It's just that marked checkpoint midway that gives u a half-point. To get it you just need to use the hold it's marked on

[@dandieter3065]

@@AidenDesJames ah ok thanks :D

[@dennis1802]

Janja is so strong well deserved tears.. Innsbruck lives up the the fame with brutal hard boulders. But i agree we should take the long term effects on the climbers in mind. I figure thus aint the best for your body long term

[@matkosmat8890]

Janja rocks!

[@etownump]

So, do we give a thumbs down because of the poor route setting?

[@govelasco]

What is the point of flushing out the shorter competitors completely? The sport loses, the fans lose. Way to steal the excitement and fun out of the sport. Sad!!

[@sashamakeev7547]

Omg Janja is just a beast

[@esusolinas]

In order to make the sport more commercially appealing and attractive, they ve turned it into a parkour contest and nobody seams to notice or care.

[@Cobinja]

I would love to see cam on the route setter's faces when Janja does something which they said is impossible.

[@danielandretupayachi2691]

47:35 what’s the name of the song? 👀

[@takijeden9222]

Timmy Trumpet & Savage - Freaks

[@innok5032]

Bruh, they made it almost impossible for Ai Mori! This is unfair! They should redo the whole comp! Bullsh*t comp!

[@Canal-dl9dx]

Completely designed for Janja

[@bloomeu1692]

13:15 why the judge forced her to restart ?

[@corentind-r1597]

She didn't put her feet on the starting hold, probably cost her a medal