IFSC World Cup Meiringen 2021 || Boulder finals

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International Federation of Sport Climbing

International Federation of Sport Climbing

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 514
@StuartX666
@StuartX666 3 жыл бұрын
MEN Adam Ondra - 44:26 │ 1:12:47 │ 1:36:52 │ 2:02:52 Yoshiyuki Ogata - 39:00 │ 1:02:20 │ 1:29:20 │ 1:51:55 Tomoaki Takata - 40:12 │ 1:06:32 │ 1:33:14 │1:56:30 Kokoro Fujii - 23:03 │ 49:08 │ 1:16:43 │ 1:39:40 Nathaniel Coleman - 27:40 │ 53:20 │ 1:18:07 │ 1:46:16 Sohta Amagasa - 31:50 │ 57:55 │ 1:22:03 │ 1:47:55 Interview with Adam Ondra - 2:08:45 Awards ceremony - 4:00:27 WOMEN Janja Garnbret - 2:34:24 │ 2:56:49 │ 3:23:21 │ 3:49:34 Oriane Bertone - 2:30:27 │ 2:55:01 │ 3:20:54 │ 3:44:14 Natalia Grossman - 2:22:19 │ 2:46:50 │ 3:08:57 │ 3:37:59 Akiyo Noguchi - 2:26:24 │ 2:48:27 │ 3:13:14 │ 3:40:20 Vita Lukan - 2:17:45 │ 2:40:56 │ 3:04:43 │ 3:30:51 Katja Debevec - 2:13:41 │ 2:36:31 │ 3:00:12 │ 2:27:12 Interview with Janja Garnbret - 3:55:44 Awards ceremony - 4:05:04
@Ben5407
@Ben5407 3 жыл бұрын
Appreciate you
@VanadiuM140291
@VanadiuM140291 3 жыл бұрын
thx man, love your work there!
@jpr8124
@jpr8124 3 жыл бұрын
Fabuleux. Merci beaucoup.
@bios546
@bios546 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks so much bru
@en5878
@en5878 3 жыл бұрын
😘
@MrElectalien
@MrElectalien 3 жыл бұрын
23:00 Men's boulder 1 49:07 Men's boulder 2 1:15:55 Men's boulder 3 1:38:50 Men's boulder 4 2:04:40 Men's results 2:13:30 Women's boulder 1 2:36:30 Women's boulder 2 3:00:02 Women's boulder 3 3:26:20 Women's boulder 4 3:59:26 Podium ceremony
@thomask3660
@thomask3660 3 жыл бұрын
Thank you!!
@kevinpilon11
@kevinpilon11 3 жыл бұрын
much gratitude.
@fletx8858
@fletx8858 3 жыл бұрын
Thnx maan!!
@Hansel.c
@Hansel.c 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks
@stecherpro
@stecherpro 3 жыл бұрын
Thank you lots
@Alteczar
@Alteczar 3 жыл бұрын
It is very nice to have Staša as a commentator; she knows what she is talking about, and can correct the other guy when he is wrong.
@philscheuer2079
@philscheuer2079 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for confirming it's Staša, she has helped commentate a few WC comps before and really is good at it
@Mike-oz4cv
@Mike-oz4cv 3 жыл бұрын
To be fair, Matt Groom is bouldering on 7C or 8A (?) level himself, he should know what he’s talking about when it comes to climbing. I think sometimes he just opens his mouth before thinking it through.
@lucaa4480
@lucaa4480 3 жыл бұрын
@@Mike-oz4cv i don't think he boulders on 7c or 8a...
@dakiblabla
@dakiblabla 3 жыл бұрын
Matt is great, but it really makes a difference when the commentator is a comp climber themselves. And then it's tough to find one who speaks fluent English, and then to find someone who is analytically-minded... Stasa ticks all the boxes.
@Mike-oz4cv
@Mike-oz4cv 3 жыл бұрын
@@LollaBelle I don’t think you’ll get an in-depth professional analysis on the fly ;) I think the talking keeps it interesting, even if it’s nothing deep.
@randomperson8423
@randomperson8423 3 жыл бұрын
I love Staša commentating. It’s incredible how much she knows and how well spoken she is at the same time. You rarely see athletes who can talk in such a flow, especially not if it’s not their first language
@atreloar
@atreloar 3 жыл бұрын
*Wonderful* to have Staša as a commentator (although sad for her that she wasn't competing). She really knows her stuff and can explain it to non-climbers in a way that makes sense. Please ask her to do more of this! Congrats also to Matt Groom for not talking over her and letting her do her thing.
@soupisreallygoodfood
@soupisreallygoodfood 3 жыл бұрын
Fully agree! She was wonderful as a commentator. Bringing athletes on like that is not new, but she provided such good commentary on the live event, and also gave really interesting insights and nuggets of information about the climbers. And Matt is great, as always! Really hope he's head commentator at the Olympics.
@Tokahfang
@Tokahfang 3 жыл бұрын
Something I've appreciated about the Semifinals and Finals is that Matt makes a point of asking questions to his co-commenter he knows the answer to, but specifically to give them a jumping off point to talk. Good stuff.
@frescogelato
@frescogelato 3 жыл бұрын
Great duo, keep it up!
@ripperfisher182250
@ripperfisher182250 3 жыл бұрын
@@Tokahfang people always seem to think matt is clueless because he does this, but this is the real reason, he wants to get the co-commentator talking and have it explained to people who are unaware.
@NickRoman
@NickRoman 2 жыл бұрын
Yes, I wish her well always, but happy to have her comment any time we can get her.
@bugfi5h442
@bugfi5h442 3 жыл бұрын
Janja being the last to climb is just perfect. The others show you how hard it is and she then shows how it should be done right
@samshorto5433
@samshorto5433 2 жыл бұрын
@doire aintu What the hell are you talking about?
@leoingson
@leoingson 3 жыл бұрын
Staša is awesome, especially since she thinks like an engineer, and can actually explain what's going on. She's also very funny, and doesn't take herself too seriously. Perfect combination!
@redpakiu
@redpakiu 3 жыл бұрын
Stasa was AWESOME! It would be great to have her more as a commentator! I mean it seems she enjoyed it too
@Mike-oz4cv
@Mike-oz4cv 3 жыл бұрын
Yes, I think her English also has gotten a lot better. I really enjoy listening to her now. Maybe it’s also because she’s also less nervous now.
@Mikkarus
@Mikkarus 3 жыл бұрын
Actually she provides so exact details about rules - really appreciated
@diabl2master
@diabl2master 3 жыл бұрын
I don't think I've ever enjoyed a boulering commentator as much; so insightful. Shame that when she's commentating it means she's not climbing!
@ovafett3100
@ovafett3100 3 жыл бұрын
Staša is awesome! If she ever retires from competing PLEASE get her to commentate world cups!
@DasUberCow
@DasUberCow 3 жыл бұрын
Staša and Matt have amazing chemistry, loving the commentary team.
@shaukahodan2373
@shaukahodan2373 3 жыл бұрын
I think Janja sold her soul to satan. And now he turns off gravity when she's climbing.
@RonaiHenrik
@RonaiHenrik 2 жыл бұрын
@@shaukahodan2373 she's good friends with Paganini, I've heard.
@kevinpilon11
@kevinpilon11 3 жыл бұрын
"Adam Ondra has always been a good all-around climber." Understatement of the century.
@thisscreensucks
@thisscreensucks 3 жыл бұрын
I thibk they meant "he's obviously great at lead climbing. But also a really good boulderer " Everyone knows he's great. But he's not known for boulders.
@bryanwang9095
@bryanwang9095 3 жыл бұрын
Feel he is more of a traditional rock climber. He always looks a little awkward doing moves that require momentum and coordination
@MyAnno1404
@MyAnno1404 2 жыл бұрын
@@bryanwang9095 jeah, a awkward winner ;)
@arielbadw1368
@arielbadw1368 Жыл бұрын
​​@@bryanwang9095he isn't that old but he did say that back in the day he didn't have these types of moves while growing up. It's actually incredible that he can still manage to compete for the gold with all these dynamic and coordination stuff against younger climbers
@dakiblabla
@dakiblabla 3 жыл бұрын
Stasa is an excellent commentator. She should be asked to commentate for the Olympics.
@woutkoopman
@woutkoopman 3 жыл бұрын
I heard Alex honnold will be there to commentate. I'm very curious to see how he'll do, I love his overall vibe and demeanor so I think he'll be great.
@kimediamond
@kimediamond 3 жыл бұрын
@@woutkoopman he's far from being a specialist in either discipline, I would prefer someone with actual experience in competition
@dakiblabla
@dakiblabla 3 жыл бұрын
@@woutkoopman Alex and Cedar is the winning combo. I think Sharma would be great too, or some epic women, like Alex Puccio.
@alexgalays910
@alexgalays910 3 жыл бұрын
@@dakiblabla Why sharma? he's not particularly articulate and analytical.
@dakiblabla
@dakiblabla 3 жыл бұрын
@@alexgalays910 I dig him a lot. He's like the nicest person imaginable. It's true that he's not super verbal, but I think that he does have interesting thoughts on climbing. We don't need someone who talks a lot, but someone who says interesting things. He does think a lot about climbing. If you look at his gyms for instance, there are some great ideas that went into them. Also it's nice now that climbing is Olympic to honor the legends of the sport - Chris, but also people like Lynn Hill for instance, by exposing them to a bigger worldwide audience.
@brianriley9426
@brianriley9426 3 жыл бұрын
The MOST amazing and exciting comp I've seen. The Ondra finish, Oriana and Natalia youthful energy and Janje's perfection: a spectical.
@philippzimmerer1280
@philippzimmerer1280 3 жыл бұрын
only just towards the end of the men's competition, but already: HUGE props to Staša's commentary! Highly informative, great pro insight, and fun on the side! Would love to have you as a permanent commentator in a decade or two, when you're done crushing the competitions yourself!
@markusschneiderbauer7718
@markusschneiderbauer7718 3 жыл бұрын
Wow! Oriane Bertones jump to the top at the very last second ... nerve wrackingly close! Besides that Janja destroyes every boulder, she lives in another sphere at the moment!
@qwertyoscar
@qwertyoscar 3 жыл бұрын
Oriane is so talented. I think we will see her putting pressure to Janja in future competitions
@MegumiLuv
@MegumiLuv 3 жыл бұрын
Agreed. I also think Ai Mori will be giving Janja a run for her money in the near future
@malteschaper3782
@malteschaper3782 3 жыл бұрын
When Staša said, she reminded her of herself, I though: "Interesting to say that, let's see what she means by that." And a few second later I though: "Yeah, I get where Staša's coming from..." :D
@qwertyoscar
@qwertyoscar 3 жыл бұрын
@@malteschaper3782 Yea, they both show very strong wills whenever they are on the boulder. Very focused and really commited in every of their attempts.
@Sajuuk9
@Sajuuk9 3 жыл бұрын
Isn't this just wishful thinking? Janja is so much better then current field, she's just fooling around on these boulders.. she fell 3 times.. seems like she's not even trying.
@leopoldberger7142
@leopoldberger7142 3 жыл бұрын
@@Sajuuk9 watch janja’s firsts bouldering competition then Come back
@xtianeroc
@xtianeroc 3 жыл бұрын
It’s almost frustrating how good Janja is
@NageIfar
@NageIfar 3 жыл бұрын
That feeling when you accidentally read a spoiler comment but it's really not even a spoiler at this point.
@nadiradyaa
@nadiradyaa 3 жыл бұрын
Yea like it was no fun to watch anymore cos she will always flash everything anyway😂
@camelot_crusader3024
@camelot_crusader3024 3 жыл бұрын
Yeah I get what you mean. It's amazing to watch though - she just DOESN'T FALL!
@markwhatever.209
@markwhatever.209 3 жыл бұрын
No frustration here (then, I don't compete against her), I am just in awe.
@ashhodson2063
@ashhodson2063 3 жыл бұрын
Ikr! Semi finals = 4 tops, 4 zones, 5 attempts and 2 flashes I think
@andrewhoar9742
@andrewhoar9742 3 жыл бұрын
Stasa Gejo’s as a commentator was great. Her comments and insights really added a lot.
@mrmrmrmr3254
@mrmrmrmr3254 3 жыл бұрын
Had I just forgotten how great a sport this is, or was this really an outstanding event? Great competition, perfect setting, and the overall broadcast quality was superb, super camera and microphone positions. And the commentary was fantastic, as well. Matt, great as ever, but what a pleasure to hear Staśas expertise, she should consider following that path after her active career. Just awesome. Thanks, everyone. Fantastic weekend.
@leoingson
@leoingson 3 жыл бұрын
Disagree on cameras ;)
@biltongandboba
@biltongandboba 3 жыл бұрын
Bloody brilliant by Nathaniel on M4!
@codyheiner3636
@codyheiner3636 3 жыл бұрын
Yeah that was so inspiring! I gotta save that for pre-training hype
@snefansson
@snefansson 3 жыл бұрын
Never heard Stasa as a commentator before but damn I agree with the rest of you, she was real good! Respected her comment on how important it is for a climber to master all the aspects of climbing. This is supposed to be the hardest comps in the world, an athlete can't just complain that it doesn't suit their style and is therefore bad, it's supposed to push your limits in every form!
@hipisuit
@hipisuit 3 жыл бұрын
Climbing starts at 23:05
@felixgriffin9472
@felixgriffin9472 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks, really helps
@sunmeet
@sunmeet 3 жыл бұрын
Can we always have Staša commentate? That was awesome! Physics, biomechanics,.. I guess she'd rather be climbing haha
@الباروني-ش2ث
@الباروني-ش2ث 2 жыл бұрын
when two players have the same number of tops it's better that the winner will be the one who made more attempts because that one made more effort, so like that the players wont lose time and they will be faster
@somehandle
@somehandle 3 жыл бұрын
Man, Janja is from another planet! 😳
@kamron_thurmond
@kamron_thurmond 3 жыл бұрын
I think she's a robot.
@andreykurdyubov2822
@andreykurdyubov2822 3 жыл бұрын
Janja should compete men
@kamron_thurmond
@kamron_thurmond 3 жыл бұрын
@@andreykurdyubov2822 I love to see a open division comp. Where everyone climbs the same boulders.
@eloytoro
@eloytoro 3 жыл бұрын
@@andreykurdyubov2822 no, she's a woman, she's the best tho, by far
@ericjones3692
@ericjones3692 3 жыл бұрын
@@andreykurdyubov2822 should at least let her try the mens problems. Huge power and height difference from men to women, so she probably wouldn't be able to make a final in mens division, but it would be fun to see how she well she would handle the mens boulders.
@kdc71425
@kdc71425 3 жыл бұрын
I laughed out loud when Janja stood up on the horrible sloped slab hold that every single person had tried and failed to stand on. "How's she gonna do it...oh okay...just stand up." Also Oriene reminds me of one of the sand snakes from GOT. She's wicked talented for her age. She is 6 years younger than Janja so she's got plenty of time to catch up.
@bilinasmini3480
@bilinasmini3480 3 жыл бұрын
Wow! Oriane Bertones jump to the top at the very last second ... nerve wrackingly close! Besides that Janja destroyes every boulder, she lives in another sphere at the momen
@pirminborer625
@pirminborer625 3 жыл бұрын
Bravo Oriane! Incroyable perf et tellement de talent! J ai cru pas croire mes yeux sur la sortie du deuxième bloc. Absolument fan depuis. Merci pour le spectacle.
@returntolifeband
@returntolifeband 3 жыл бұрын
Coleman's effort on M4 was amazing, happy for him getting it
@bagusscooterist
@bagusscooterist 3 жыл бұрын
Janja is a beast.. where's she training during the pandemic? King Kai's planet with Son Goku?!
@marcelovillalva4547
@marcelovillalva4547 3 жыл бұрын
In the time chamber
@ValetteRenoux
@ValetteRenoux 3 жыл бұрын
Oriane is so exciting to watch at only 16! She has her own style. And Natalia is short, but can turn a dynamic move into a static move that even the taller climbers can't/don't do. Love the emerging young climbers.
@Primefac
@Primefac 3 жыл бұрын
M1 - 23:00 M2 - 49:03 M3 - 1:15:55 M4 - 1:38:45 W1 - 2:13:23 W2 - 2:36:25 W3 - 3:00:00 W4 - 3:26:15
@nachomc222
@nachomc222 3 жыл бұрын
Hero
@elfriederich
@elfriederich 3 жыл бұрын
I love u
@kessejesse5068
@kessejesse5068 3 жыл бұрын
Well done Matt Groom, that was some great commentating - and Stasa is always fantastic to listen to (Quote of the day " she snookered herself...." hahahaha - love it!) but still prefer to see her climbing!
@Nick-B78
@Nick-B78 3 жыл бұрын
Wow, amazing women’s finals and while Janga is of course incredible, I think Oriane Bertone might be my new favourite climber.
@bencarvell8771
@bencarvell8771 3 жыл бұрын
Stasa is an amazing commentator! Great chemistry with Matt, great knowledge as well as light hearted and funny.
@IgiiXI
@IgiiXI 3 жыл бұрын
stasa's the absolute best! such great insight, thanks so much for hopping on commentary :]
@mariebovell3966
@mariebovell3966 3 жыл бұрын
The best commentator-couple of all time!
@pongwiboonma
@pongwiboonma 3 жыл бұрын
Men: Great Competition Women: No Competition 🤣
@Nick-B78
@Nick-B78 3 жыл бұрын
Interestingly though, I still enjoyed watching the women’s final more than then men’s. The things Janga does is just amazing but more than that, the performance by Oriane Bertone was amazing
@markusschneiderbauer7718
@markusschneiderbauer7718 3 жыл бұрын
Come on, Oriane Bertones last second jump to the top was absolutly crazy! :-D Although I have to admit, there is absolutly no way around Janja, she's just to strong!
@Ravenblues
@Ravenblues 3 жыл бұрын
Janja can be thrown off, she did bad at the Slovenian cup, she is just really good at the "standard" way of setting. Don't get me wrong it is still remarkable
@Nick-B78
@Nick-B78 3 жыл бұрын
@@markusschneiderbauer7718 It really was wasn’t it! I thought her previous heroic send was great but that second one was epic 🤯
@ItsBritneyBitch1
@ItsBritneyBitch1 3 жыл бұрын
@@Ravenblues It's not true that she's only good at standard bouldering. I've seen her do other comps like Adidas Rockstar and Bloc Masters and she killed it at those as well! The only reason she was a bit off on the Slovenian comp was because she literally had a hard training session the day before and only did it for fun. Ps. She still ended up wining the Slovenian final despite being a bit off lol
@crystalding5589
@crystalding5589 2 жыл бұрын
Staša commentates with skill, precision and flair. More of her on please!
@millacabral9475
@millacabral9475 3 жыл бұрын
MAN I Missed this so much! My gym is still closed, for the third time, but just watching the athletes is great!
@malteschaper3782
@malteschaper3782 3 жыл бұрын
I got to know Staša from this very good world cup in...Moscow( I dunno, couldn't find it, if you've seen it, you know which one. It was a roller-coaster...) as a very dedicated and emotional and motivated climber and it's just stunning to get to know her analytical side through this commentary. Shows the beauty of the sport.
@mitra9234
@mitra9234 3 жыл бұрын
Bro how is janja so good , what does she do man , MAD RESPECT TO HER , MAD RESPECT
@slonski
@slonski 2 жыл бұрын
Amazing commentary from Staša. Super informative and insightful, yet easy to understand for us beginners.
@TheRevolverLady
@TheRevolverLady 3 жыл бұрын
That was wonderfull to watch and to hear. So much compassion from everyone involved. Bravo
@captainlama9174
@captainlama9174 3 жыл бұрын
Top notch commentaries from Staša, I hope we'll hear her more in the future (even though it would probably mean she was eliminated at some point so maybe we shouldn't hope for it).
@christianjagers6657
@christianjagers6657 3 жыл бұрын
Stasa should comment more comps, she's so good in it. You get so much specific information from her. makes it easier to understand whats going on.
@kristianburghard1955
@kristianburghard1955 3 жыл бұрын
Tip: If you want to skip the waiting time between each climbing attempt, with the right arrow on your keyboard you can forward 5 seconds. Makes watching way more enjoyable imo!
@thorna100
@thorna100 3 жыл бұрын
Perfect boulders, perfect commentary, great production. A really exciting comp with a really nice range of boulders and great to see the photo finish on Women's 3! I usually write the slabs off as being dull but that proved me wrong!
@yts1007
@yts1007 3 жыл бұрын
Read comments beforehand, thought what could be so special about commentating, played the video, proved me wrong. Love you stasa!
@aidanloeser4890
@aidanloeser4890 3 жыл бұрын
Holy shit Oriane 2:56:00 And, as always, Janja is in another dimension.
@Efretpkk
@Efretpkk 3 жыл бұрын
Both tops of M4, so epic! Congrats on a nice show. I missed it.
@jodywren2212
@jodywren2212 3 жыл бұрын
What an atmosphere, especially the ladies final. Reminiscent of the smoke filled, darks darts finals from the 70s.
@RonaiHenrik
@RonaiHenrik 2 жыл бұрын
W2 and W3 Bertone just blew my mind. Especially W2. Insane!
@eliasgermer8762
@eliasgermer8762 3 жыл бұрын
Commentators: 10/10 Camera work: 2/10
@the0cool0guy
@the0cool0guy 3 жыл бұрын
Yeah, too much side view rather than full view. And when the climber looks up from the mat they keep showing him instead of what he's looking at. Agree about the commentators, esp Stasa.
@dubzndrugs
@dubzndrugs 3 жыл бұрын
music: 1/10
@MrFlopstar
@MrFlopstar 3 жыл бұрын
Thank you so much for coming back!
@ericconnor3728
@ericconnor3728 3 жыл бұрын
man, nathaniel coleman's foot match on m2 was great. that dish on m2 suddenly gained friction when adam touched it lol. These falls on m3 just suck. That mental reset by Yoshiyuki ogata when he faced away from the wall! wow, brilliant drop knee on m4 by adam!
@millacabral9475
@millacabral9475 3 жыл бұрын
3:24:18 I swear she's like a cat sizing up that jump and lining herself up for it. Spectacular competition, I'm hella impressed with the youngin Bertone.
@mtnbknmichigan
@mtnbknmichigan 3 жыл бұрын
Great times!! Thank you all on a great Event!! 😎🏆💪🏼🔥🔥🔥
@VinceW187
@VinceW187 3 жыл бұрын
It always amazes me how a boulder can seem to have a impossible move, then once you have done it once you stick it every time.
@chessicles99
@chessicles99 3 жыл бұрын
adam switching up his shoe combinations is freaking sweet
@danieldukebass
@danieldukebass 3 жыл бұрын
3:27:00 "What is this shape? Does this... represent anything?" so funny, exactly what I was thinking at that moment
@seancollins8749
@seancollins8749 3 жыл бұрын
Men's: 23:00 Women's: 2:13:23
@VanadiuM140291
@VanadiuM140291 3 жыл бұрын
thx man!!!
@Glimmer81
@Glimmer81 3 жыл бұрын
Cheers
@MrFlopstar
@MrFlopstar 3 жыл бұрын
More Stasa, please. She smart, funny and very knowledgeable. Great commentator :)
@AMM1998
@AMM1998 3 жыл бұрын
my god nathaniel on M4 was so rad
@jakovivkovic
@jakovivkovic 3 жыл бұрын
Yoshiuki Poppins, with that deep bag of wonders 😄, but seriously powerful, nimble and technically skilled
@Draqson
@Draqson 3 жыл бұрын
When I hear the point made around the 56min mark, that science says chalk actually decreases friction and is therefore only useful to dry your hands - I have to completely agree with that sentiment, I never immediately chalk, I always wait for my hands to get really sweaty, because it definitely feels less "grippy" having powder between your skin and the wall.
@TheBestNameEverPt2
@TheBestNameEverPt2 3 жыл бұрын
This was a marvellous competition to watch. Stasa is a natural at commentating, witty and informative. And these problems and climbers were both very creative.
@belbrighton6479
@belbrighton6479 2 жыл бұрын
The Netflix film of the women’s journey to the Olympics was wonderfully moving so I had to come back to watch more Janja.
@RazEdits
@RazEdits 3 жыл бұрын
Watching this while working (editing videos) and kept hearing the ejecting sound at 28:44. Thought it was weird that my Mac was making Windows sounds.
@dschelada1
@dschelada1 3 жыл бұрын
Oh, I didn't realize it was part of the video! I just thought my windows laptop was acting weird. Thanks
@davidfierro1233
@davidfierro1233 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the long video ! I love to see the details
@brittany3891
@brittany3891 3 жыл бұрын
When Janja's involved, all the others are basically competing for second place!
@loichervier7206
@loichervier7206 3 жыл бұрын
Oriane is coming, she is as strong ( if not stronger) as Janya at the same age
@michaelbraendel
@michaelbraendel 3 жыл бұрын
Janja is incredible. This lady must be from another planet!
@joostlambregts6177
@joostlambregts6177 3 жыл бұрын
The attempts at top for Janja seems one to high on the scoreboard, starting after boulder 2. Did the video (and the commentators) miss an attempt there? Or is the score wrong?
@beatewester4777
@beatewester4777 3 жыл бұрын
I love your chanel. Thank you so much. Especially for the kind moderation. Best regards.
@PeterParker-rh3cp
@PeterParker-rh3cp 3 жыл бұрын
Men's / Women's: #1: 23:05 / 2:13:28 #2: 49:13 / 2:36:40 #3: 1:15:47 / 3:00:10 #4: 1:39:10 / 3:26:25
@StanleyDo
@StanleyDo 3 жыл бұрын
Great commentary! They’re really having fun
@naldu4096
@naldu4096 3 жыл бұрын
I think Janja sold her soul to satan. And now he turns off gravity when she's climbing.
@michaelbraendel
@michaelbraendel 3 жыл бұрын
I didn't like the camera at all, although it was much better than in the semi-finals (of course there were no concurrent athletes performing, so fortunately no cut-over needed). In particular, the angle from the side which they often chose I find very frustrating because you cannot really follow the movements and body position. From time to time it would be ok to have few seconds with this angle to get a glimpse of the steepness of the wall but not longer. I wish they will have a more professional direction in the Olympics with some understanding of what and how Climbers want to see.
@Khoalabare
@Khoalabare 3 жыл бұрын
Surprised I had to scroll down so far to see this comment. It was very frustrating
@duffyandmelindagillman-car3855
@duffyandmelindagillman-car3855 3 жыл бұрын
YES. The constant cuts to angles where we can’t even see the move they’re making. I’m shocked that more people aren’t complaining about this- it’s honestly some of the worst video work I’ve seen.
@katrinacake
@katrinacake 3 жыл бұрын
I somehow still prefer Charlie. He has a strangely pleasant tone in his voice
@Old.Man.Of.The.Mountain
@Old.Man.Of.The.Mountain 3 жыл бұрын
Me too. I just want to enjoy watching the climbing with my beer and without all the nitpicking.. and Charlie's voice is the perfect accompaniment to create the atmosphere I prefer. Miss him!
@Merip1214
@Merip1214 3 жыл бұрын
No more Charlie?! Aww
@millacabral9475
@millacabral9475 3 жыл бұрын
There's is actually a technique to swinging from a hold or bar without any initial momentum. There are some good videos online about it, but you essentially do a leg raise and then kick out pushing your hips forwards and up, keeping your arms and shoulders pretty relaxed. What most climbers fail to do also is arching on the swing back and then snapping into a "dish" or hollow body position at the top of the back swing. If you practice this on a regular bar and understand the timing of it all it's actually pretty easy. Flexed arms and trying to swing by only flapping your legs actually kills your momentum and takes away control.
@gonzoliam1720
@gonzoliam1720 3 жыл бұрын
That was fantastic!
@metalsam666
@metalsam666 3 жыл бұрын
I really like having Staša Gejo as a commentator. They both are a great team
@ferrangomis
@ferrangomis 3 жыл бұрын
Amazing competition! Please improve the camera positioning, we're missing key moments because the cameras are terribly positioned.
@moritzwegge6835
@moritzwegge6835 3 жыл бұрын
Yoah the cameras were frickin bad indeed!
@millacabral9475
@millacabral9475 3 жыл бұрын
Ok, they really should have to put a softer mat down on problems like M3. That fall is huge and they're just flopping from a huge height horizontally onto a mat that barely absorbs the impact. I wouldn't be surprised if a few of them actually got a mild concussion from that, it looked like Takata had a bit of whiplash there :/ It would help a lot if there was a big cushioned gymnastics style mat right under that part of the climb.
@millacabral9475
@millacabral9475 3 жыл бұрын
@gioyu comi I know! I was so confused for a moment there hahahaha
@qotsa1234
@qotsa1234 3 жыл бұрын
I got a bad concussion with a fall like that, i was thinking the same thing this move was dangerous.
@millacabral9475
@millacabral9475 3 жыл бұрын
@@qotsa1234 yeah dude, especially since they're primed to fall on their side or back instead of upright. IFSC should revise their guidelines.
@qotsa1234
@qotsa1234 3 жыл бұрын
@@millacabral9475 yeah tricky overhang moves should not be that high up,they are pro I guess it's the risk to take but knowing what a concussion can do ( its been 10 months without climbing for me now) i wouldnt want to take the risk if i know i cant stick the move first try.
@manuelrodriguez5129
@manuelrodriguez5129 3 жыл бұрын
2:03:42 YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
@PeterLE2
@PeterLE2 3 жыл бұрын
Why don't they tell in the description who those commentators are?
@millacabral9475
@millacabral9475 3 жыл бұрын
They present themselves at the beginning of the actual comp, Matt Groom and Stasa something, she's also an elite climber
@lc1715
@lc1715 Жыл бұрын
3:43:50 I’m sure that Akiyo heard the ending beeps but wanted to finish regardless, for her pride and satisfaction, especially since it was the last boulder and she didn’t need to conserve energy anymore. It’s not always about competition.
@danielmeeker7587
@danielmeeker7587 3 жыл бұрын
Them playing the Inception soundtrack at the beginning meant a lot!
@MordorixLunatix
@MordorixLunatix 3 жыл бұрын
Staša is a really strong climber and was great as a commentator tonight! Great inputs and a lot of interesting facts she gave. Matt was quite good as well (there is a space for improvements) but I have missed commentary of Charlie Boscoe as he is sort of signature sign of those IFSC world cup broadcasts. Even, I am often disappointed watching other comps where he is not commenting on them. I think that Charlie and Matt could make stable commentary team. Staša will be commentary legend when she is finished with competing, but she has not finished yet!
@SimonAstrupDK
@SimonAstrupDK 3 жыл бұрын
Great having climbing back. The commentators should have a bit more volume - they do a really good job, but background noise is just so loud. They deserve to be heard.
@UthacalthingTymbrimi
@UthacalthingTymbrimi 2 жыл бұрын
So, Oriane gets a silver medal in her first World Cup event... remind you of anyone? Well done, great things to come from her in the future I'm sure! And Janja is just... Janja. Nothing more needs to be said.
@laufsteakmodel
@laufsteakmodel 3 жыл бұрын
watched this back after I watched it live in April. Still cant believe how the 2 sidepulling crimps (or are those small things even pinches) on such an overhanging wall before the top hold are even physically possible (talking about W1). Of course only Janja can do that. Also. Awesome job, Matt. Great commentary. Loved the duo with Stasa. With Matt and Charlie (who got better and better as a commentator every year) I think the IFSC has great casting talent that doesnt need to hind behind any other sport.
@blackmarlin3166
@blackmarlin3166 3 жыл бұрын
*Spoilers* Adam = the GOAT of mens climbing Janja = the GOAT of womens climbing
@whoaminobody
@whoaminobody 3 жыл бұрын
Staša is such a great commentator. I remember Nathaniel Coleman did a tremendous job commentating one of the bouldering comps in the past as well. Wondering who else do you guys think are pretty good commentators? Would love to go back and watch these games to learn more.
@julen2380
@julen2380 3 жыл бұрын
Awesome competition. But mostly I just adore Stasa as commentator. In the very best way - so eine coole Socke! :)
@iulianapopescu459
@iulianapopescu459 3 жыл бұрын
Janja flashed the first two boulders, but the board shows three attempts for them. I don’t understand why, and no one seamed to notice.
@Pallomember
@Pallomember 3 жыл бұрын
That WAS confusing. As far as I understood, Oriana's replay was still playing while she took an attempt at W2.
@iulianapopescu459
@iulianapopescu459 3 жыл бұрын
@@Pallomember But you can hear Matt saying that Janja flashed W2. It wasn’t any attempt while Oriana’s replay, the background noise would’ve been different.
@abcdefgh-zz3ep
@abcdefgh-zz3ep 3 жыл бұрын
Can someone explain why did Oriane get silver and Grossman got bronze when she has one more attempt than Grossman??
@omaralejandroquinntoledo4271
@omaralejandroquinntoledo4271 3 жыл бұрын
i just need to know what kind of trousers was Tomoaki using
@ethananweiler9446
@ethananweiler9446 3 жыл бұрын
That 1 second top was intense
@craftyg2761
@craftyg2761 3 жыл бұрын
Adam is so strong so versatile! Congrats!
@TheRealBrandonMcDuff
@TheRealBrandonMcDuff 3 жыл бұрын
I unplugged my phone at 26:17 and the video made the windows sound and I was SO confused
@Jay-Niner
@Jay-Niner 3 жыл бұрын
Route setting is a challenging balancing act. Too easy: everyone gets a top and it’s hard to differentiate the climbers. Too hard: frustrating to climb, boring to watch.
@c.l.368
@c.l.368 2 жыл бұрын
Coleman's power scream with barely 7 seconds left on that final boulder gives me the chills, what a fucking beast.... 1:46:59
@JPsk8core
@JPsk8core 2 жыл бұрын
Pure feeling, that top got me smiling in front of the screen
@diabl2master
@diabl2master 3 жыл бұрын
Wow - Bertone is one to watch!
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