IFSC World Cup Wujiang 2019 || Boulder finals

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[@fabiandoliana9433]

W1 29:56 W2 48:35 W3 1:14:00 W4 1:31:30 M1 1:58:29 M2 2:23:26 M3 2:46:43 M4 3:11:40

[@awenpena7223]

[@francescobonso8016]

Thank you!

[@furyofbongos]

You rock Fabian!

[@Breeelax]

MVP

[@dasi1009]

Gracias

[@GB-yp4ff]

Janja Garnbret is just on a different level, the way she crushed that last boulder like it was a warm-up problem, while the others struggled with beta - crazy stuff!

[@DesmondRayBeltrop]

That's basically every event this year. They should let her complete in the men's comp. I'm pretty sure she could hold her own there.

[@mathjoker]

Where was she last year? She's so far ahead of everyone else that I'd have thought she'd have won a bunch last year as well. It seems like she's a shoe-in for Olympic gold, even if she comes in 8th in speed (because her lead climbing is pretty great too). So much hype about Adam but while he is certainly very good he's not on another level like Janja is. The hype must be from his outdoor climbing.

[@DesmondRayBeltrop]

@@mathjoker She came in #1 or #2 in every bouldering world cup comp last year and the year before, and was top 3 in every lead world cup over the same period of time. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janja_Garnbret_in_the_Climbing_World_Cup

[@Gytax0]

@@mathjoker Adam is not winning every world cup because there are a ton of other great male climbers. The top athletes are at a similar level - every podium is different. For women, it's pretty much always gold for Janja, silver for Akiyo and then come the rest.

[@DesmondRayBeltrop]

@@Gytax0 To be fair, he was sick AF after the Moscow comp for a few weeks which is why he missed the last one.

[@NageIfar]

SPOILER WOMENS FINALS Akiyo hugging/congratulating Ai was so precious. First finals and already a medal, huge props

[@ItzSkillful]

Happy to see Tomoa final snag gold. Seems a lot of people are on the Ondra bandwagon (understandable, whats not to love), but Tomoa's been exceptionally consistent this season. 2 silvers and a gold - a podium on every event he's competed at! No surprise Janja won again. Seems like if its possible for other competitors to top a boulder, Janja will undoubtable do it as well... Truly Amazing.

[@marcohubahib9160]

Okay I got the gym

[@jacobpenner1923]

Janja is truly on another level, flashed a powerful boulder (W2) that no one else could even top 😳 If setters made all of the boulder problems even harder in the finals we would see just how far ahead she really is. But I get that seeing everyone else struggle and fail at all of the boulders wouldn't be very entertaining.

[@eadelindizon9514]

kai harada flashing that route that nobody else could top. dayumm

[@crescentfuze]

Like Jernej in Moscow on M4 and Anze last cup.

[@dailynotinteresting4325]

Really an amazing effort to keep the race for first going. Personally, I don't think the controversial top was a top (didn't seem to have control), but fortunately it didn't impact the rankings one way or another, just kept some amount of tension to the fourth boulder.

[@samcoren8437]

1:54:49 great interview questions... ‘Hey what’s it like to win’ , ‘it rained last time’, ‘ok see ya’

[@OIFenrirOI]

And this is his only job, right? :D Together with the robotic voice it gave me a good laugh^^

[@finnbruton7274]

S C lol I was thinking the exact same 😂

[@bearyai216]

Miho is back ❤️

[@horrorfan1122]

Kyra Condie was a fantastic commentator, I hope we get to hear more from her.

[@1234tetsutetsu]

Congrats to Ai for her first podium.

[@TheRagballer]

Always hope Kyra does well, but she's a great commentator

[@konradtheman]

1:07:59 "Yeah, I have to say the DJ has been one of the best ones that we've had on the IFSC. We've had ACDC, Creedence Clearwater, but this is one of his first own goals." - Charlie Boscoe being savage

[@Couldnotexplain]

DJ: "I know what these competitors want to hear. Every AC/DC song ever."

[@mrjm6752]

Been bouldering every week for a year. Just found these video on youtube ... Thanks for the endless hour of fun that are ahead of me !

[@epincion]

Excellent coverage, thanks to all the commentators.

[@asdfasdfsd]

My parents were watching this at the scene. This event is amazing and thrilling!

[@user-fo5dl6cf7r]

really?

[@asdfasdfsd]

@@user-fo5dl6cf7r It held in Suzhou of China, We live here and fortunately very close to the event venue. It just takes about 30 minutes to ride there.

[@user-fo5dl6cf7r]

@@asdfasdfsd lol I was just joking , I believe you

[@kamron_thurmond]

Janja and Akiyo are phenomenal female climbers.

[@cyrillemiller8798]

Kamron Thurmond **phenomenal climbers

[@kamron_thurmond]

@@cyrillemiller8798 Changing that sort of ruins what I was going for there, because if said outloud "female" and "phenomenal" have very similar sounding beginning parts of the words and kind of rhyme, but sure go all P.C. on me.

[@RJirl]

@@kamron_thurmond I enjoyed your word play and I always assume the best in people. you be you. ignore the rabble

[@arnaudb1653]

1:51:38 RIP headphone users

[@moppelfrosch5727]

I died without headphones

[@viniciuscollaco]

ty for the comment, you save my ears

[@manugomezs]

I knew I’d find this comment haha RIP

[@RyanHillGaming]

this part actually scared me so badly

[@tonyluvbalony6837]

I would like to say a “every Tamoa Narasaki fistbump compilation” on this channel

[@tibuwi7059]

Janja just flew up the last boulder o.O

[@jonnes__4657]

Last boulder for Janja... awsome !!! She is so easily dominating her competitors... .

[@damluar]

Camera work is so horrible, someone call Eric Karlsson please!

[@davidvenus8783]

waaay better than it used to be imo

[@yolyperu4695]

The curtains 🙈

[@vesuveking3465]

Who da fook is Eric Karlsson

[@Lilianna731]

@@vesuveking3465 Eric Karlsson is a climber who has a very popular youtube channel :)

[@NickRoman]

If Miho Nonaka had not pulled herself up on that first boulder, I think she would have had it, but pulling up added a little extra force and that caused the slip. Still, obviously the second method was more secure anyway.

[@polaide8036]

Janja pushing domination to a new level. Big thanks to Kyra for co-commenting. It's great to have her insight.

[@danielkrenn6717]

Great event as always - except some music choices in the women finals (1:14:53 & 1:24:28) I found quite an embarrassment!

[@CCMrJones]

lol youre right :D

[@frikinfrogs]

Ah so cringe 😣

[@miat789]

What were the songs ?

[@jeremiahd2209]

We need to gofundme a trip to Flatanger for Janja. Who's with me?

[@lmnts556]

Norway is my home, I welcome her!

[@NickRoman]

wow, Akiyo Noguichi just killed that first boulder. Murdered it. lol

[@crescentfuze]

3:17:44 Really cool movement and synced with the music!

[@jonnes__4657]

Jakob Schubert against the japanese armada, congratulations on bronze! .

[@Atom.Storm.]

I'm sitting here on torn ligaments from a 4b and these guys are dyno'ing everest

[@ShakespeareanBroncobuster]

Atom Storm is that the equivalent of a V0? I don’t know the Font scale

[@Jesusfsmums]

Daniel Horton v1

[@fuzz6263]

European or British 4b?

[@siavash119]

You'd think the judges would wait for after the round to consider the appeal. Doing so would give the contestants more equal break time. They waited to update the scoreboard...

[@JMnyJohns]

Janja W4 in 14 seconds. Aye Caramba!

[@catweston2101]

Great final!! Love actually getting some separation among the women 🥰🥰 who commentated on the female final??

[@DesmondRayBeltrop]

The female commentator was Kyra Condie.

[@catweston2101]

@@DesmondRayBeltrop thanks!

[@jcrotty18]

100% agree. The sets were to soft again for the Women second event running. Basically, a flashing contest.

[@LucianaFujii]

Agree! Would have been even better if the zone from w2 was the next one.

[@catweston2101]

@@LucianaFujii for sure - Akiyo climbed much further yet got nothing for it!

[@MattPellegrini91]

Women start 0:30:00 Men start 1:58:25

[@clee2865]

Janja is from outta space👽👽👽

[@laurensalkemade7985]

2:21:22 guy leaves grease behind 2:21:45 kokoro slips :P

[@almendras7426]

Nerf Janja please.

[@its_a_ducky3467]

I think she used fly-hacks to get to the top of the last boulder

[@GabbGangen]

I learned a new word watching this: penultimate! 😆

[@wibby2143]

fire that dj

[@JoelSchnall]

Out of curiosity, do competitors have to turn in their cell phones before heading into isolation? Could they potentially watch their competition on this live stream?

[@jcrotty18]

yes

[@awdrifter3394]

KZbin is blocked in China.

[@carina-nonbinary]

​@@awdrifter3394 there's ways around it and people use them

[@BonTravellerFreedom]

ขอบคุณครับ ฉันชอบดูมาก

[@florianmarks2876]

imagine you are one of the female competitors and you just struggled hard on w4 and then janja comes out and makes it look like the warm up wall

[@furyofbongos]

The close-up shots are useless if we don't get to see the lunge towards the hold. This happens all the time with these shoots, please show all the hold grabs. Otherwise what are we watching other than just a closeup of the face and elbows?

[@epincion]

The problem is that IFSC are not responsible for the camerawork - that's done by a Chinese TV network.

[@furyofbongos]

@@epincion That makes sense, however, I've seen the exact same problem on other events on this channel in other countries.

[@epincion]

Its actually gotten a lot better over the years , I remember when it was filmed with a potato.

[@beimberni6952]

Good Dj and nice Problems =)

[@user-xr9zm3zr8v]

bouldering Japan cup

[@morphling337]

I find this scoring system absurd when Akiyo's performance 101:00 gets scored the same as the two women that went before her. It should be points for EACH hold that you pass/control, because there is a world of difference there that isn't being quantified or captured in the results. It's so so stupid.

[@enderlain385]

Shoulder strength and perfect height to weight ratio. Janja probably wouldn't be beaten in boulders. Setters should probably go for shorter and more crimpy problems to stop her

[@athousandlives7231]

2:41:21 Glitch in the Matrix 🤣

[@DesmondRayBeltrop]

Fantastic setting for the men, all problems topped but no 4/4 by anyone.

[@jcrotty18]

yes, agree. however, again an advantage to the short climbs per the usual

[@yannlisicki790]

@@jcrotty18 Totally agree but unfortunately there is no good solution for this besides splitting into height categories. Kinda like weight categories in boxing.

[@jcrotty18]

@@yannlisicki790 It seems there is still a general unwritten rule in play that "thou shall not set anything the shortest climber can not reasonably have a chance at." On the contrary setters seemingly have no issue with creating bunchy problems with high feet that only the smaller climbers excel at. Look at finals M1 for example. At first glance it looked like a taller climber would have a decent chance at the crux top, but with the right heel beta it was too high for taller climbers. Tomoa solved it brilliantly with that high heel and a great stab to the top hold. My favorite example was semis M1 vs M4. It was obvious that taller climbers hand the advantage on M1 as it was a fairly long move to the top. However, it was flashed by two climbers; Jan Hojer and Kai Harada. The tallest and shortest climbers respectively! On semis M4 not one tall climber in the field gained the top; Ondra, Hojer, Kruder, etc. Yet the smaller climbers such as Harada, Tomoa, etc. had not issue with the very bunched up moves from the zone to the top. My personal take is there is a built in bias against tall climbers and a general lack of understanding and thought on how to set routes that are fair regardless of size.

[@cyrushyk]

That cameraman needs to stop taking close-up shot of face and cuting off the rest of the climber!

[@RJirl]

they were doing what they were told, and it could have been switched to other cameras to "fix" it, but I agree with you. Their job should have been - Look at that climber until you cant anymore, then stay still. Next camera on the next climber, same rules. one camera on a long away shot to fill in the gap. Mickey Mouse job for sure.

[@RJirl]

Oh you mean when the climber is on the wall. YES! super annoying not being able to see the foot work especially.

[@omershossberger5528]

Why during the male final the dj didn't play songs like "you ____ thing" (1:14:53) or "___ bomb" (1:24:28)?

[@joedawson8943]

Cause theyre absolute bangers

[@Neerav3984]

Feels like Janja Garnbret s alien :)

[@RJirl]

She has suction cups for hands

[@cimfonica01]

Such a sad era for female climbers. So many strong climbers like Akiyo, Miho and Jessie. All fighting for second and third place...

[@jasper374]

Do people get to try the boulders after the event?

[@jasper374]

So basically touching the first hold

[@scytaletleilax]

3:24:45 WTF how is this possible???

[@pkampsmugo]

Did you guys ever asked Jan Hojer to be co-commentator?

[@epincion]

Jan has been a commentator in the past. The best in my opinion was Alex Megos, he was a riot.

[@philipppuchner1115]

@@epincion jup, Megos is a funny dude (not just the looks of his legs) :))

[@danielhdoro]

I feel bad for Julia Chanourdie. I can only hope this result didn't get her questioning her skills.

[@moacarlsson7947]

JANJA GARNBRET is the best!!!! like if you agre

[@scytaletleilax]

1:51:38 WTF it scared me :(

[@olivergilmartin]

***SPOILER ALERT*** HOLY CRAP Janja is a different species. 😮😮😮

[@wojecire]

someone needs to sit down with these camera people and kindly ask them to make sure 2 hands and 2 feet are in the picture at all times when someone is on the wall.

[@jk-qe3jj]

No, you don't get it. The cinematic effect is much more important than the viewers seeing what the hell the climber is doing.

[@wattsyvfx]

"penultimate" means "second to last" not "last" or "highest".....

[@omershossberger5528]

Does Miho wear unreleased tenaya shoes or she just painted in red her oasi?

[@reccy231]

Those look like the new 5.10 Aleons

[@rachelnanshija251]

Anyone else unable to watch past about 2:47:00? Whole video loaded fine until that point, now it wont load at all.

[@Fogmeister]

Who is the man commentating?

[@einfach_noelle]

13:01 3 Japanese men, 4 Japanese women... count again 😂

[@pavelb2751]

anyone know the song at 3:16:50 Jan Hojer doing M4?

[@cheznikos]

Decent comp. Janja too strong though. Wonder if she could make semis in the men's

[@furyofbongos]

2:59:38 - here is an example of bad camera work. He is moving his feet which is critical yet the camera does not show it at all. This is very frustrating. Please improve the camera work.

[@jcrotty18]

To be frank this was the best event camera work wise they have ever had in Asia.

[@nicolapace5089]

This year camera work is just frustrating. No event since now had a decent service. Someone needs to teach them how this sport should be filmed.

[@miat789]

Im new to all of this but why is it that the obstacles are not automatically scrubbed in between competitors ?

[@alexandertoth363]

Japanese Championships

[@peterhammer6915]

No drama needed today as 4 flashes. In the mens hoping the Japanese not to win and in the womens hoping them to win. Neither did happen :(

[@Quetzacoatl85]

why would you hope for the japanese not to win? they're always such great competitors

[@philipppuchner1115]

woman - women! Not womens. There also no childrens, postmens etc. ;)

[@TScorpio204]

Is Adam Ondra not competing?

[@EtherealDoomed]

He didn't make it through semis

[@TScorpio204]

Oh wow, surprising. Thanks

[@DesmondRayBeltrop]

He didn't make the finals.

[@dr.gernotmayer111]

He is too big for the short people setting, so its a japanese show...🤣 dont like it...kind of boring...

[@samanthasemi8398]

​@@dr.gernotmayer111 Except for the fact that Jan Hojer is even taller than Adam Ondra and still made the final. So saying that the routes were set for short people is just not correct. Given the super competitive field one cannot expect Adam to get into every final, there is no shame in that, he is still one of the best (or maybe the best) climber out there. However, blaming the route setters for him not getting into the final is just incorrect in my opinion

[@eliboninger431]

"its so hard for the routesetters to set for female climbers" just get a female routesetter damn

[@RJirl]

she just meant that the routesetters aren't as flexible as the female climbers, so its hard for them to judge what might be possible on a problem

[@suterde]

Or set route the same way as for men, and we will show you we can do that too

[@crisppy3691]

@@suterde doubt

[@MarkCrimper]

I don't understand why route setters set differently for women. Sure most women may be shorter than men but there are also shorter men that have to do the same problem as taller male climbers. Both still have to be really strong, flexible, coordinated, etc... So many of the same skill sets are shared. Therefore, I don't know why you would set differently for women. Can someone give a good explanation?

[@huddrez99]

@@MarkCrimper Women simply are not as physically strong as men. So boulders have to be "easier" for them.

[@simonshackleton5835]

3:33:20 adam ondra back left?

[@ATLTraveler]

Go adam!!

[@sonne5528]

Why is Shauna not competing ?

[@takeitawayerni]

she's focusing on the olympics atm

[@fluffypuppy92]

2:59:59 I don't think Kai get through the top

[@kiriappeee]

The DJ's from this leg have been hype. Semi finals deffo rocked harder but dang. They played sex bomb (mixed) too 😂

[@jaimer.e.mendez9927]

Where is Ondra?

[@IvanMilyakov]

you should have watched the semifinals

[@jaimer.e.mendez9927]

@@IvanMilyakov ;)

[@CGagnon5]

M3 was terrible. Route setters should be ashamed of that problem

[@nicolewong3687]

Who’s the female commentator?

[@isobel6959]

Kyra Condie

[@ItzSkillful]

Kyra Condie - Womens US National Team

[@nicolewong3687]

@@ItzSkillful oh nice. she's got a great voice

[@yolyperu4695]

She's talking really quick for a not native speaker 🙄

[@dante4838]

Nerf Janja pls

[@RJirl]

maybe next patch

[@timchristiansen3642]

1:04:10 "i dont wan to give the results away, but the guy who won broke his PB in his last 3 races" witch means who ever make PB in the kvaterfinals and semifinals will win -_-

[@jcrotty18]

Good event. Best camera work to date, for Asia, compared to other historical events like Chongqing last week which was pretty poor. Women sets were too soft and yet another final was a flashing contest. I feel sorry for Akiyo as the tallest competitor she often gets raw deal on one problem and she almost never gets an advantage for her extra size. For example, in today's women final it was painfully obvious that it was a big advantage to be smaller at the top of W2 when having shorter legs and overall smaller body was very helpful. Glad the men comp saw harder sets but here too huge advantage to the smaller climbers on M3 slab problem. It seems the unwritten rules are that nothing can be set that is too reachy for smaller climbers but the setters seem to have no issue with creating bunch/scrunch problems that the taller folks are at a total disadvantage on.

[@mathjoker]

Akiyo got the place she deserved though. Even if she had topped W2 she would have come in 2nd. Janja is just so much better that they basically have to hope she has an super off day to have any chance at winning. There does seem to be a bias against tall climbers in general. It's probably because something reachy can be literally impossible for a shorter climber, while something scrunchy is just harder for a tall climber, not impossible. It's a common myth that being tall is an advantage in climbing but that's been disproved many times.

[@jcrotty18]

​@@mathjoker Not true. The only problem Akiyo did not top was W2. If the situation was reversed and the setters created say a long reach problem or a power set that only Akiyo could top then she wins. Recall that Akiyo flashed W1 and Janja took two tries from the zone to top. It was, as have been all the women's finals, a flashing comp for the top two or three females. Janja has been incredible this season, but I think her success has everything to do with good reads, a small advantage in that almost all of the sets fit her smaller body better than Akiyo, and an overall lack of any power setting. The last one, no power sets, and the prevalence of the "new" style of volumes, jumps, and trick moves has allowed the lead route climbers like Janja, Pilz, Miho, etc. to not only be on equal footing with the boulders but to have a shot to win almost every comp.

[@DavidAKSlo]

Joseph Crotty isn Janja not just 1cm shorter than Akiyo? 164 cm vs 165cm? Just because you are a fan of some other climber, there is no need to look for every possible excuse to justify Janja’s dominance. You shouldn’t even be watching sports. What you are doing is very unsportsmanlike and disrespectful. And it is also silly... 1 cm is the difference in height. Janja is a midget.

[@jcrotty18]

@@DavidAKSlo Wikipedia and other sources say they are 1 cm difference but my eyes tell me differently. Akiyo is closer to 2-3" taller or about 5cm. They don't have the same build either as Akiyo has longer legs which was obvious on W2.

[@RJirl]

@@jcrotty18 just a side note, but Akayo and Janja are both 5'5, so no size difference. Janja is stronger and has greater grip strength .. or has suction cups for hands. I'm still undecided. Agreed though. Her reads are fantastic and she knows what she is capable of.

[@driftwoodization]

To become olympic you have to ask the Girl., the people and the Universe. Or you climb.

[@Kooksrifles]

Sooooo many stream crashes. Had to refresh the page for about 30 times (no exageration). Any one else have these problems?!

[@philipp-w]

Why so many dislikes? 🤔

[@leopoldomanni6509]

i do me the same question

[@infectednetwork]

my guess would be because the camera angles suck

[@Kooksrifles]

I had to refresh the stream for about 30 times... soooo many interruptions, horrible.

[@philipp-w]

@@Kooksrifles yeah possible

[@Solwa54]

The stream started over an hour and a half before the event, with nothing but the still frame to watch. If people were relying on the KZbin channel to know when the competition started, that may certainly explain the dislikes. Anyway, just a guess.

[@rhielwager4308]

. janja😍😘💪

[@tomnichlson]

Terrible camera work

[@Gamikom]

Blind judges, disliked...

[@hansmair6961]

Any Doping Controls?

[@crispyboing]

worst crowd ever?

[@Giniaer]

They make the boulders so only the Asia people can reach, so smart

[@MiMaTak]

wtaching this video now... the voice of the female commentator is so irritating I had to turn the sound off

[@sinekonata]

@ About to make everyone else look like noobs. Kai thinks for 15" then tops it in 30"...

[@neo778]

Please no spoilers here in the comments!

[@ONCEuponAtime999]

dont read the comments before you watched the video. simply as that

[@halneufmille]

Pretty much takes out the whole point of comments.

[@skiltrauma8154]

Olympics 2020

[@bxatch]

Ba-nah-na

[@dakiblabla]

Music choice leaves something to be desired: You sexy thing, sex bomb, I get knocked down (while Miho was climbing), We will rock you (blood over your face, big disgrace...), highway to hell... Wtf. Luckily half the competitors don't speak English, so couldn't heed this subtle subliminal messaging, but still. As a general rule I think it should be forbidden/avoided to play music with suggestive lyrics or some highly unpleasant sounds (like ac/dc with that shrieking voice), no matter how professional the climbers.