How To Powder Coat Without An Oven!

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I've always wanted to get better at powder coating. Today I take that one step further with figuring out a much cheaper option than the full size powder coating ovens.
🔗 The IR heaters I purchased: amzn.to/3Po1vGO
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[@thesandmanks]

Stand 2.0 - add pivoting arms so you can face the heaters towards each other with the object in between them. Also add two pegs on the back of the stand to wrap your cords around.

[@corner7bass02]

Literally was going to the comments to make this comment. Glad someone did!

[@tysonkoehn1]

Yes, the top bar should be able to bend in the middle to bring the heaters closer together.

[@JOSHUAALLEN28]

Exactly what I was thinking 🤔. Something like a dual monitor stand, but bigger.

[@Mike__B]

Add in a small turn table to spin your object between them too, basically make yourself a shwarma oven

[@cdsentone3832]

You could get square tubing one size bigger that will slide over the arm, cut a short one or two inch section for each heater and attach each heater to that tubing and then be able to move the heater anywhere along the arm. If you add a friction bolt you can still lock the heaters in place where you want them.

[@mattsnyder4754]

Pro tip. Amperage is easy to calculate if you know the wattage of the heaters. Wattage = amps x volts Or in your case Amps = watts/volts So if those heaters are each 2000 watts like you said at the start, they’re going to pull 18 amps each at 110v

[@jashtag]

Thats the rule for DC but for AC its different

[@LykanVarion]

@@jashtagNot really an issue with resistors (heaters are resistors), but more so for capacitive or inductive loads.

[@jashtag]

oh yeah you're right my bad@@LykanVarion

[@beardedfreedom]

⁠@@jashtagohms law for AC is Watts/Voltage = Amps, so with that. Two 2,000 watt heaters = 4000 watts. So 4,000/120V is 33.3 so he’d need a 40A breaker with number 8 wire to cover both at the same time

[@burtreynolds3143]

@@beardedfreedom this is why he has 2 cords. He maybe doesn't have a circuit where he can plug in both.

[@bytesizedengineering]

"it looks like I'm being artistic! But I'm actually just being cheap!" Probably my favorite Bob quote so far

[@danielproctor1962]

Agreed, I was just about to comment on this... I think this is T-shirt material!

[@catgynt9148]

Definitely T-shirt and mug material.

[@PhantomWorksStudios]

Ollie approves!!!! lol

[@reallunacy]

He said that and I was like, "that's me!!" It also looks like I'm green, but I'm actually cheap.

[@schroederb2007]

My father in law took an old standing cabinet, insulated it and took the heating element from a stove in it and put the dials from it on the side. super nice cuz the timer is still built in and doesn't take up a ton of room

[@Iliketomakestuff]

On nice, that's cool!

[@th.l.7768]

Go ahead, Bob, we know you can do it! By the way, thank you for these inspiring and entertaining videos. Cheers from Belgium. @@Iliketomakestuff

[@jfbpat]

I think you should have some kind of fold up reflector. So you can store it away easily, and take advantage of the radiant heat all around.

[@Iliketomakestuff]

Yeah that would be a good upgrade to try

[@VEE727]

​@@IliketomakestuffI thought you'd make 2 stands and mount 1 heater on each to heat the obejct from at least 2 sides. Put this in an reflective corner and that should work swell

[@generic13372]

First thing you should powder coat with this is a big reflector for powder coating. Same rollable base with as big of a reflector as the heaters are so you heat more evenly and waste less energy/heat to the surrounding. You could make it do double duty and have one side as a head reflector and the other as an acoustic barrier for making your videos.

[@AgentWaltonSimons]

Just a note - it's generally a good idea to wear gloves when handling those tubes. The oils from your hands will go onto the tube surface and can change the properties of the glass, leading to hotspots and potentially reducing the life of the tube.

[@pileofstuff]

Was going to make the same comment. It's something that was drilled into me back when I started doing stage lighting. Quartz lights do not last long with finger oil on the glass.

[@TheAfroman]

Yep. I was a theater projectionist in the day. That oil starts to boil and POP! 😮😢

[@thebestyoupossible1837]

Same goes for small, hot halogens, be they car or lamp.

[@LoganLovell]

I've been a long time viewer of ILTMS and I'll be honest, sometimes I watch a build and think "there's a lot of better ways to design that" or "I've seen better methods for doing that thing" but honestly, none of that ever matters to me because the best part about the channel isn't necessarily always the thing they are making, it's the methodology and lessons they convey about HOW they made the thing, what their thought process was, how they resolved issues they ran into. THAT is the kind of content that you don't get many places, and that I enjoy so much about every video. This video is the perfect example of Bob just creating something out of a need, and making a very functional tool, but more than anything he shows his thought process while making it.

[@LoganLovell]

I also just want to say, I think most of their designs are great. Theres just projects every so often that I think "hmm, not how I would have done it" or "it probably would have worked better if they ____" but it never comes from an armchair warrior place of "lol these guys are clueless" but rather "thats an interesting way to do that, but it looks like it works well!"

[@benlucas1039]

Definitely have to powder-coat parts for the Karmann Ghia. It would look great and it's a perfect application for the larger parts imo.

[@DavidPlass]

I was thinking one of the subframes.

[@bretts1646]

I had the same thought!

[@ChrisMuncy]

When I powdercoat, I love to do engine parts, such as pulleys, intakes, timing covers, you get the idea. Also, if you are wiring a shop and use metal cover plates, I powder coat mine different colors based on uses, like Blue for shop air, red for backup power, etc. Also, don't forget powder coating tools! Keep them organized.

[@Iliketomakestuff]

Nice, the colored cover plates is a cool idea!

[@michaelkolozsvari3575]

Just have to say, I liked you showing the video of you making it while you did the commercial. This allowed me to listen to your sponsor while I watched the making! Much better than being forced to watch the stock footage, and it means I actually listen to an add... win-win

[@MaltandMake]

What a great idea! I've been put off powder coating for exactly this reason but now I want to give it a try! Thanks Bob!

[@deepblue812]

Love the blooper at the end. As a fellow hobbyist powder coater I can commiserate with the dropping the not yet baked part and watching the powder go 'poof' on the bottom of the oven...

[@Iliketomakestuff]

Haha yeah so frustrating. That's another reason why I like the stand. The part doesn't have to move (as much).

[@MakeitZUPER]

Get some assorted silicone conical plugs (from tiny to large) for fast masking of threaded holes. They're also re-useable since nothing sticks to silicone. Build a foldable rockwool lined enclosure to encapsulate the heat. A working second hand electric oven works well for mid-sized parts or batches, and you can put the small oven on top of it for the little jobs. I've done lots of automotive parts like rims, steering, suspension and brake components but you need to be careful of the powder's temperature range so in some cases, high temp paint is a better option. The heat will add a toughened result in most cases, but you will obviously need a lower temperature for those items. You just need to think about any metal items that you don't want to rust or corrode really. Yard equipment is always a good choice like snow blowers, etc.

[@shaunfather]

powder coat the ghia!

[@stafdehat]

That's actually not a bad idea. Rust prevention is a real struggle, and since classic cars are both A) Steel, and B) Intended to last 100 years... You see the problem.

[@texastwitcher3392]

I was going to suggest this also. It would work great for that.

[@genericdude4726]

Truthfully, I assumed that is already the plan for this

[@4fiddy_a_aron]

The frame yes, the body not so much... bondo can't be powder coated

[@tomludlam4349]

That was my first thought too!

[@James-of-all]

Epic! Not only would those make great powder coat heaters, that stand would make an epic portable garage heater or outdoor heater for the night time or winter. Love it!

[@kenselleck2414]

Very good video thank you! I usually skip both the sponsor and the montage section of videos and by combining them I found myself happily watching. I recommend a washer between the base and spinning arm to protect the finish. Cleaning parts with acetone and sanding them lightly with 400 grit paper will help adhesion. Also different powders need different temps/cure time time

[@NekoFallen]

I used to work at a Powder Coating company. Had a large, well ventilated booth to spray the items. Then we had to roll the racks into our oven. It was 10 feet wide, 8 feet tall and 30 feet deep, always at a toasty 450 F. Was an incredibly hot place to work.

[@TravisFabel]

little late, but on the wiring for this... put both of them in series, and then use a 220v plug for your welder. It will pull same amps as one of them, and you can easily put them on that one circuit. Also, I expect this is for powdercoating big parts of the karmann ghia

[@twilightsass517]

I suggest an enclosure. Powder coating doesn't like to cure in sections. Also it can give you a clean environment to spray in which is very important , contamination is a bad thing. I've seen it done with large cardboard panels with foil attached to the inside. It can be built to pack flat against a wall when your not using it.

[@glennr9913]

Dumping heat into a cold shop doesn't look like an effective process. 🤣

[@rustypipes12]

Pretty awesome setup. I've never powder coated anything except lead bullets. I have a 16' long steel spiral staircase on a two story building I just bought. It's pretty rusted and covered with peeling paint. I'm going to unbolt and lower it onto my 18' trailer and take it to a sandblasting shop that's capable of handling it and painting it. I would much rather have it powder coated but have no idea how to tackle something that size. I'll keep watching to see if you come up with any other cool ideas!

[@onyshchukv]

Bicycle frame. Many times wanted to restore old bicycles, and recolor the frame is usually a must.

[@Airon0727]

thats exacly why i'm here! seems relatively easy to powder coat but heating a bike frame will be the hard part.

[@tenacioustinkerer7661]

Different powders flow out at different temps, and require set times at temp, so use an IR temp sensor to monitor the temps of the metal in different spots. I’ve powder coated large objects using a method called hot flocking, where you heat the metal to proper temp using a roofing torch, then spray the powder onto the hot metal

[@Vikingwerk]

This same stand arrangement would be great for a couple LED shop lights, super portable and aim-able.

[@Iliketomakestuff]

very true

[@swissfreek]

Could use way smaller steel tube to keep it light though.

[@Bosbulls]

Great idea.

[@mr.robinson1982]

Anytime I have to drill into metal, I add a drop of oil exactly on the spot that I am drilling into, to help reduce the stress that I am adding onto the drillbit. I then use a magnet inside a plastic bag to collect the shavings, invert the bag & throw it away. But I keep the magnet.

[@Fredscat]

Use cutting oil, it's got elements like Sulphur in it, specially made for cutting steel

[@catgynt9148]

If you are going to do it again, perhaps an old clamp on dual VESA monitor stand would worm. There are several pivotal points on these systems that allow for multiple angles. Now that you have this system you can powder coat your semi-circular bench legs and the frame components on the Gia. Wishing you and your family a blessed week filled with gentle seasonally appropriate weather and restful evenings together enjoying the fire pit. Peace

[@jjpiatek3294]

The answer you were looking for regarding the amp draw is in the description of the products. 2000w at 110v = 18A... so 2 of them on one 20A circuit is going to blow. My favorite formula is the PIE formula. P(Watss) = I(amps) X E (volts)

[@DavidM2002]

If you need to touch up the powder, do it while the part is really hot. I do small PC in my home shop with nothing more than a heat gun. I get the part really hot, spray on the powder so that it slightly melts and sticks, and then heat up some more until I get a nice smooth and glossy finish. So, apply your powder and put the heat on that spot for however long you wish.

[@papaducky]

Please do another "powder coating" episode and share what you've learned from using your new rig and some tips that you received. Thanks

[@SteelBenderMan1]

I’ve been thinking I’d prefer to fabricate my own replacement steel fence. I’ve got a welder, a powder coater and a small oven too small for the fence. You have answered the last question, where can I get a heat lamp large enough without spending thousands of $$$$. Thank you so much. Bill Bores

[@aaronneira9355]

I just bought a pair of these to use for powder coating the tubes of wind chimes. I made a set out of EMT and painted them flat black. They came out really nice but the paint started chipping off where the striker hits the chime. Someone suggested powder coating the tubes. My idea was to attach each lamp to a pipe that is mounted on a wooden base. I don't need them to rotate as I can just suspend the chime tube in between the two lamps.

[@BulletproofEveryone]

You're going to have a hard time getting good, repeatable results. You can't preheat parts reliably, it is generally line of sight, and your surface temps are going to be all over the place. To get a good bond, the base material needs to be at temp for 15-20 minutes depending on the powder and metal you're coating. You can do it, but be prepared for lots of fiddling with distance and time with the temp gun.

[@earld1403]

*100% This.* The heaters should be inside some type of foldable, insulated box with a fan because trying to get even coverage on any nooks and crannies will be impossible with this type of setup.

[@jasonanderson420]

I’m sure the Karmann Ghia has a bunch of parts that could be powder coated. Building some heat reflective shields to put on the other side of the heaters to the object being powder coated would save some energy and maybe speed up the process a bit also.

[@enigmacamaro]

ok here we go... look into a redline gun (ez50) it has a dial on the back that you can control your kv. make sure your air supply is dry. harbor freight air driers are awesome for garage setups. a good air regulator makes a world of difference when your air is dry. when you use your heating lamp set up make sure you're curing for part temperature. the cure time does not start until part has reached temperature. quality powders and storage. prismatic powders has a ton of colors and good powders to use. a lot of people who do this here and there in a garage build their own ovens, or buy them second hand. the build your own setups I recommend an used oven with a fan setup in it. transfer that stuff into a larger box with the fan setup to help circulate the air to prevent hot spotting. a high heat rockwool insulation between the inside and outside panels of the oven works fantastic. high heat rope seals for the door or doors to seal them. prepping the parts by sand blasting is best. use a second hand cabinet blaster (with a shop vac attached if there's no vacuum with it) and use a oxide blasting material to prevent silica contamination that you can get with some glass bead or play sands.

[@AlexSwavely]

I did some work in a auto collision repair shop for a bit, they had a heater arrangement like this for curing paint when the full booth heater was unnecessary - single panels and the like. You could definitely reuse this on the ghia project.

[@RichPober]

If you are powder coating steel, then first put on a zinc powder coat as a base layer to inhibit rusting. Finally put on the coloured powder coat. I do this for equipment I store outside in the damp UK climate and the powder coating is still there after many years.

[@scottb9240]

Watts= Current x Voltage 2000w/120v= 16.67A for each heater. Hopefully that saves you some headaches in the future. Love your stuff!

[@jrobie8375]

This comment needs to be pinned to the top!

[@monteporche5552]

Yes, but each one is 1000W, so each one is drawing 8.33A. The two together would draw 16.67A. However, with things like heaters, there can be a pretty significant inrush of current when they first start heating up, so it's likely that they would draw over 20A when first starting up.

[@magic.marmot]

Dawg. Did I just watch a video where you made something that you had no purpose for, like you just had an idea for a new tool and made it? I'm so freaking jealous right now.

[@felipenavas]

Coincidentally, I woke up thinking, can you make powder coating without an oven? I was thinking about something like a heat gun and a lot of patience. It was funny finding your video

[@justinsluka8971]

I do a lot of gunsmithing, and I've been running against limitations when trying to coat barrels with something like Cerakote or Russian Paint. This is an interesting solution, but I think the most common situation in which you'd see parts that don't fit in an oven will be long and thin - and the easier solution would be to just punch a hole in your oven and heat the part in sections. That said, I'm surprised to see this works! I would've assumed that the part wouldn't hold enough heat while the heaters just radiate into the shop.

[@SophiaF3499]

I think you should've had smaller tubing on the ends of it so you could slide them into the bigger piece, bringing the heaters closer together or further apart as the need arises. Edit: Telescopic! thats the word i was looking for, telescopic arms

[@579wowmom]

wheels i have a few motorcyce wheels you can pratice on , get really good at pre taping for holes and places you want bare, get a really good tap and die set you will be retapping most of the threaded holes you powdercoat around.

[@ItsBugtronic]

Powder Coat items for the Ghia, Rims are a perfect application for powder coating, as well as trim pieces (if you don't go the chrome look).

[@SomeMorganSomewhere]

Nah, think big, powdercoat the entire body of the Ghia ;)

[@slowyota_rolla]

You could try using fireproof insulation rolls to make a temporary blanket to get better heat distribution and utilization of the energy coming off, basically like a makeshift oven.

[@waynebutler7813]

I have a list of things running through my mind of what to use that setup for! I'm going to be restoring an El Camino I've had for about 30 years, so the list goes like this....the frame, wheels (original), several parts under the hood that are 30 to 40 inches long, and probably some more items as they come to mind. I don't know the first thing about powder, but I did see a cool video on how to make up an inexpensive setup! Thanks for sharing!!

[@Bosbulls]

Mind sharing a link to that video?

[@waynebutler7813]

@@Bosbulls I would and will if I can find it. It was a while ago, but I'm happy to share.

[@rockstarfan886]

Sad to hear nearly the whole team has left i was shocked but i understand people grow and move on. As a long time viewer i will always watch and support great video bob

[@sapelesteve]

Thanks for that bit of information. I kind of suspected that myself. I hope that they all do well knowing that Bob can easily make it on his own! I also hope that they all remain friends!

[@Skyra_0]

Wait, What happened. I had a brief look around and can't find any info. Was there a post on alternate social media?

[@JonathanRansom]

I love Curiosity Stream. And cheap is my mojo.

[@scottishprepper8835]

Pretty cool. You can also use it to heat your shop. Take a piece of plywood and steam it to make a slight curve and then line the inside with a reflective metal or material that will reflect the radiant heat. This way you can bake the entire thing without having to rotate it.

[@robertbaker5445]

Powder coat the Karmann Ghia. Also, I live in rural Oklahoma and there is one sitting in a front yard a few miles from my house. You should take a trip out here to see if any parts would work on yours. Its the same color.

[@Oldtimeytools]

I listen to the podcast all the time! First time I see one of your videos recommended! Glad the algo is figuring it out. Great video btw!

[@jimchance5006]

When you powder coat things like car parts or older pieces of metal, you need to clean them really well with a solvent, i use rubbing alcohol, then you need to pre bake them to get rid of moisture it's picked up over the years. I do 12 minutes at 400 degrees. If you dont so this, the powder will flow out, then the part will start to off gas and bubble up the powder. Best of luck!

[@makermikesizer]

Seriously Bob, this is really good. Totally new solution to a problem relatable to many. Kudos to you on your ingenuity here. thanks!

[@bradgentry6625]

If you know the wattage of something and the voltage it takes you can find the amperage by using P=IV where P is watts and V is volts.

[@forby_]

cool beans

[@JonathanRansom]

C.O.O.L. B.E.A.N.S.

[@iconiccreations2492]

To properly cure powder you need to follow the cure schedule. For example a lot of powders cure for 10 minutes @ 400 degrees part temp. So that means your timer doesn't start until the part has reached 400, not just in a 400 degree oven for 10 minutes. If you are only melting the powder until it flows out and is smooth you are not fully curing, this will lead to cracking, chipping and early failure of the powder. The alternative is to use a thermoplastic powder which do not require the cure cycle like thermoset powders.

[@enthusiastguy2799]

Hey there! Enjoyed your video! Thinking you can optimize the heat distribution a bit by placing some aluminum foil reflector panel on the opposite side of your heat emmitors there, keeping your target piece between those two. Nothing fancy really, just spread some food aluminum over some cheap metal scaffolding to radiate some heat back on to your target. Great work!

[@lukesmith9059]

I couldn't tell if you did this already, but if you haven't, it would be a very good idea to ground that whole stand/heater contraption. It could save your life if the hot wire ever comes in contact with the metal casing.

[@JodyGates]

This is my type of Bob project. It was always the hacky, DIY projects were most interesting to me on your channel.

[@Ryan_Thompson]

Since your heat is essentially coming from one direction, what about a small separate turntable stand that would slowly rotate your part to help evenly heat parts (or at least parts that have near rotational symmetry for that to make sense).

[@paulvaladao6024]

Grounding your part is very important. The better the ground the better results. Especially when multi layering power. But have a feeling those heaters won't keep a steady temperature which will lead to future flaking on parts. Just my opinion, but love this channel you have great ideas and keep up the amazing content and hope it all works. 👍

[@ch33chmongo17]

Keep in mind the aesthetic quality(orange peel) and durability of the coating depends on how quickly you get the part up to temp and the ability to maintain that temp and heat the part evenly. Different powders have different flow out/cure temp. Unless you are doing a candy color over polished metal its a good idea to sandblast or etch the surface of the part for better adhesion and durability

[@CarsonAxt7306]

I would also like to see some sort of metal powder coated katana build in the future. You rock man! keep up the great builds.

[@EPortillo5000]

Just a small observation, disassemble competelly to do the powder coat that way the chances of left a spot without coating will be minimum. In the video is noticeable that a part of the base is uncovered where it joins with the pivoting arm. Also when you have it all assembled the part that is not near the heaters acts as a big heat sink so your part will require more time to keep the temp you need with the risk that may not reach it at all so use a thermometer to check if the part reachs the desired temp.

[@curtismakes]

Podcast listener here. This was a great video Bob. Cool concept that feels more connected to you and your ideas than before with a larger staff at iltms.

[@ThePalegreenhorse]

Try some autoparts; wheels, bumpers, control arms, etc. Thats what i would build this for. Great episode!

[@ericschleppenbach3519]

Have you tested the durability of the finished coating? How long did it take to finish baking that stand? I'm a big DIY advocate, but even wanting a moderate amount of large powder coated parts on a regular basis, if you really want a reliable and quality job it's probably worth paying a pro to do it. I imagine the amount of time, floor space and energy cost to set everything up, start baking and then constantly take the time to move the heater around and make sure you get every square inch isn't worth it. Glad you made the video to start the discussion.

[@MikelNaUsaCom]

tools. unique (so when they are borrowed, you know who takes them) and durable coatings. Anything that comes in contact with weather, water, or salt water... so anything that goes on or around a vehicle... toolboxes, external carriers, detailing, bike racks, boat racks, luggage racks... spare keys (non-working end) lawn ornaments, art work, tables, chairs, signage... fencing, gates...

[@jeffpiper7430]

if possible would use against a brick / block wall so that getting the reflected heat as well ,also could save a lot of work by starting off with outside bbq elec heaters , most are 2000w and on their own stand

[@TheStigma]

You could greatly improve the effective heating output (and coverage) if you had some simple reflector surfaces. As is, most of the IR light is wasted by hitting other surfaces, and you can probably multiply the effect 5x or 10x with reflectors. Probably wouldn't need to turn the item either. You can use mylar (ca 97% IR reflective) or even plain aluminium foil (80-88% IR reflective) and just hang it up around the object in a rough cylinder shape. When you are done you can pack away into a trivial size for storage. Mylar has a lot of benefit here in that it is not just more effective, but also much much sturdier than just alu foil, which would be a pain to keep from ripping. Mylar is basically just a super thin alu foil (vapor deposited) sandwiched between PET plastic sheets (same as pop bottles). It's the same stuff you find in a lot of packaging material, for example chip bags (that have a silvery inside).If you are cheap and have more time than money You can wash and reuse these, and even weld them together into larger sheets with a simple iron and some baking sheets. You can buy mylar on a roll at many large-scale gardening suppliers though, and it's not too pricey.

[@digitalbaka7722]

Powder coat the Ghia. Like the whole thing......or maybe just the wheels. :) I agree with the comments about adding some sort of reflector system if possible as that could help speed and efficiency. Some sort of way to monitor temps and time would also be a good addition.

[@mikeh4035]

I’m sure the cruiser needs a bumper or rock sliders with a powder coat finish. I built a bumper for my xj but never took the time to put a finish on it. No paint was going to last. This looks like a great winter project. Thanks Bob

[@SargeWolf010]

Personally I'm not crazy about powder paint but I'll admit it does look cool [and is useful]... 5:54 Tori Gate base 😂😅

[@ronhansen7717]

You could wire them into your 240v 50 amp welder outlet by splitting it into two independent switched circuits. One plug, two supplies, no blown circuit breakers.

[@BlackstoneMalone]

I think it would be neat to do one of two projects. 1. A large concrete block oven with a fire box to burn wood for heat. If done correctly you could have venting to keep smoke and ash out of the main area. 2. Build a 6x6x6 oven with sheet metal and use the heating elements from three or four kitchen stoves all wired to the same thermostat. Or even put two of those heat lamps on each wall and put it on its on large breaker.

[@kenselleck2414]

So a temp gun used to find the correct distance to the part can be helpful. Pre-heating the part before coating a bit will let you check the distance for proper cure time as well as help adhesion.

[@lukenatewilson989]

I absolutely love how you repurposed the curved square tubing.

[@terrynunya7444]

@Iliketomakestuff, I would make a stand for the power coated objects that spins. Kind of like a 3d printer curing station. An automatic turn table of some kind.

[@Monkey_Snot]

I powder coated for a few years, a decade or so ago, large things like ambulances, and i can tell you that it's not that difficult. But you need to add more coats before you bake, just because it looks coated, it's probably not. It will self level and blend, so don't be afraid to put the dust to it. Also, if you find it not sticking, you can pre charge the metal by tapping on it with a hammer and it will become slightly magnetic helping the powder to be attracted. You also need those heaters closer with reflection opposite, 80% of your heat is going around your work, it'll cost more in hydro that its worth.

[@Thefabfarm250]

Look up the 3d printed ends for that Eastwood gun. They make a huge difference in how the powder flows out and can help to get a better finish out of a cheap gun!

[@NGinuity]

It's like you read my mind with this project. I'm looking to powder coat some aluminum sheet metal chuck boxes for scouts that we designed.

[@sapelesteve]

Great project Bob! Sorry to hear that the crew has broken up. I guess that it was time for everyone to move on. Wishing all of you well! 👍👍

[@kyleorwig8696]

Who left? I seems that I missed something!

[@CarsonAxt7306]

It would be nice to make a duplicate of the same setup for the opposite side of whatever you would powder coat. This might be a better idea once you've gotten better at powder coating and want to add to your powder coating setup.

[@hotroddin6488]

You could try powder coating parts for the carmen ghia. Maybe start small and you might even get to do the frame if that is what you want. You could also do a video of the differences between powder coating and certain types of paint. Having a torture test for parts and see what holds up better and why. Many people don't realize how many different coatings can be used for a project so they just go with what is easiest at the time. Having an idea of what is out there helps to know when to try something new if it is better in that instance.

[@AndrewWilde]

I've literally been looking at powder coating in the last 3 weeks. Its like ILTMS can read my mind. 12//10

[@TheRealPhoenix_Retromods]

How about a second stand or a deployable booth with panels to reflect the heat? Maybe you could have more uniform coverage and do a large piece in one go rather than move the piece.

[@deepblue812]

I'm definitely thinking portable booth with some kind of panel attachments that fold up when not in use is the way to go. could also serve as storage for the delicate IR lights when folded up and not in use.

[@Iliketomakestuff]

Yeah that would be a good idea to try to build upon this. As long as it's easily portable and storable.

[@magic.marmot]

I really liked how you added your sponsor content. That's really clever.

[@manueltrujillo8645]

I found old brake disks make great stand bases for stands like this. I used one for my telescope.

[@filmdetective]

You need some kind of a rubbery washer between the stand and the rotating arm. So it will titen up. Especially since your two materials are flat with not abrasive parts to prevent them to turn under weight

[@the-inatorinator]

Can't wait to see how you use this on the Ghia. I don't know anything about cars, but if you have a cool tool like this I'm SURE you'll find a way to incorporate it into that project 😅

[@kubaczek20]

Pi as base for stand, that some strong math in there. Great build

[@davidellison6571]

If you have 220, you could wire each heater to it's own leg of the circuit and add a switch to turn each leg off. It might be easier than finding two separate 20 amp circuits.

[@duece2duce]

Going try to make one of these to powder coat a motor block

[@tomtruesdale6901]

You might also get a couple of sheets of foil covered foam insulation to put behind the object you are powder coating to save the heat and reflect it to other parts of the object. If you ever need to form large sheets of plexiglass use the heaters for that.

[@nordicbeast]

This is pretty smart, could you make a reflective back drop, so the heat will reflect and hit the back side of the part? Like plywood covered in foil?

[@lmbruguera]

It turned out pretty cool. One suggestion I would give is to use thermal insulating plates, perhaps mpu, I don't know of a similar material, with a reflective layer, nothing permanent, so when it was To heat the pieces, you would place these plates in the surroundings so you would make better use of the heat. Very cool project

[@vinnydelucia2510]

You should show us how you wired them up.. That would be the real lesson. That's why I watched it, with hopes that you did so. The other is all common sense. Thanks! ALOT!!

[@RobDucharme]

I used to work at a pipe coating company (oilfield line pipe). One of the coatings we did was FBE, which is fusibond epoxy. Powder coat, basically. The pipe would pass through an induction coil, heating it up super hot. The powder would be blown at the pipe via multiple nozzles, and there was an air return system that sucked away the excess. It would gel onto the pipe and pass through a water bath to cool the pipe down. Hope that helps! (lol, it won't for this application)

[@turboflush]

I would put one atleaset on a pivot arm so you could bake both front and back of object at same time.

[@RogerWilson-qg6qg]

I’m redoing a Jeep jk and for rugged off road fender flares, well they are ridiculously expensive. I’m going to make what you made here because I want to do the actual fenders, instead of raptor paint.

[@TheSwedishMaker]

Really enjoyed this one! Clever project!

[@Iliketomakestuff]

Thanks, Pierre!