Full Shop Air Compressor Setup

Want to run air compressor lines throughout your shop? We did all the research so you do have to! Come see how you can have a full shop air compressor setup. Thanks to Send Cut Send for sponsoring a part of this video. Check out their metal cutting services at bit.ly/35ISLrR
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Full Shop Air Compressor Setup
• Full Shop Air Compress...
I Like To Make Stuff
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[@grimlicentia]

Go to your local farm supply store and grab a 1/2" cattle stall mat. It is solid vulcanized rubber. Anyway, put a piece of that under your compressor. It will completely eliminate all vibration into the floor, I don't even need to bolt mine down, the added friction from the rubber holds it in place.

[@redred9000]

Very good idea! Thanks for the shout!

[@lossless4129]

Oh man, this is a great idea haha

[@frrapp2366]

i have put an old truck mud flap down before works great and the cost was free

[@scotchristensen4199]

I was just going to say that

[@hawkie333]

Those mats are great for a lot of things. Weightlifting, machinery, and I park my trucks on them to protect driveway from oil stains

[@liquidphantom4233]

Awesome idea! but….. I would move the black stopper on the reel… just in case you forget and let go and it zips back to the rafter. I would suggest just under full arms reach… easy to reach yet high enough so as to not bump your head on the end 👍🏼

[@JV-pu8kx]

I would recommend a pressure regulator at each drop. 1) Convenience. You won't have to go back to the compressor each time to adjust. 2) Simultaneous. More than one tool can be used at the same time.

[@bmay8818]

Seems like overkill to me. Most air tools require the same/close enough pressure. More regulators also means more maintenance and more parts to break.

[@paulmorrow8372]

Regulators??? I just run full tank pressure :)

[@tdkyt46]

​@@bmay8818 don't forget you can't use Inline oilers with paint guns but they're reccomended with air tools. So seperate stations for each kind of work to prevent cross contamination

[@halfstep67]

@Yorkiepoocharlie Those Prevost air couplers are nice but too expensive for most home shops. I use the Milton V-style high flow couplers and they do well.

[@jaromy03]

At 5:00, the left side is a regulator with a moisture filter, the right side is a lubricator which probably doesn't have any oil in it. Most tools need oil, but some tools absolutely don't (paint guns for example). I'd recommend adding service units to all your outputs to reduce pressure drops and moisture. Put 2 quick connects on them, one before and one after the lubricator.

[@esbenrasmussen4289]

Yes this, he absolutely needs more outputs, and to keep the oil mist line and the clean line seperate

[@Grappler130]

Nice setup! Only thing I'd maybe consider is moving that moisture filter at the end of a 25ft length of hose. The moisture as you draw air from the tank won't condense fast enough for that water filter to absorb it.

[@BrockGrimes]

Agreed, they're inexpensive so toss one or two in the system.

[@FearsomeWarrior]

Totally. Temperature is effecting the air moisture too. After it’s sent along that minimum 25 feet it’s had a chance to normalize.

[@davidmerllie5826]

I totally agree

[@davidmerllie5826]

Hot air will hold a lot of moisture. Many people have built a homemade copper pipe cooler/condenser bolted on the wall before the water and oil separator.

[@mattkrause6264]

We have that tubing running air at my work. I’ve installed so much of it, my advice is to use a dawn/water mixture to lube the o-rings when slipping the tubing onto the fittings. You risk tearing the o-rings when tightening.

[@joostvanderham8694]

Yeah with a test tomorrow this sounds more important to me

[@Iliketomakestuff]

haha

[@EulogyPlaigerism]

I have 2 midterm papers due tomorrow, but yeah agreed this is far more important

[@DrLoveQc]

Lowering grade points since 2013 - ILTMS 😁😅🤣

[@ReservoirDolphin]

A couple months late but hey you’re learning some practical stuff here that could genuinely end up being more important than regular academics. Unless you took a test on like rescuing someone from a burning building. That’s probably more important.

[@andrewv4491]

@@DrLoveQclol

[@Royboyproductions]

What we did to straighten the hose; we took two 2x4’s about 4’ long and we cut a dado into each to make a channel to run the hose through. Then we pulled the entire coil of hose through it twice to straighten it. Then we tied one end of the hose to the shop wall (150ft shop) and tied the other to our tractor and stretched the hose over night. The result was nearly a perfectly straight hose to hang in the shop. Maybe overkill :)

[@bobscott1315]

Bob, a suggestion as made to me by my Father I Law (Former Race car engine engineer) is to leave the drain open slightly at ALL times. This prevents ANY moisture from accumulating at the bottom of the air tank at any time. It will hiss as a small amount of air leaks while the system is in use, but if you are using your air tools you probably won’t be able to hear it. The compressor will be cycling as air is used, so as long as the valve is only open a small amount the “leak” won’t even be noticed. If you can barely hear the hiss the valve is opened enough.

[@DreitTheDarkDragon]

Or just use solenoid with timer :)

[@AdamsLab]

Better is to use an electronic valve on the drain that purges a small amount of air from the tank every x number of minutes. Put one on mine, every 30 minutes it opens for a half second to purge a little air, I keep my compressor on all the time.

[@benjaminwells3233]

This video is a must-watch if you want to tackle this type of project. I just completed the same project in my garage with a similar kit and I love it. A couple of additional points that might also be helpful: Draw up a plan of how you want to route the air lines and determine what fittings you need. I found it was actually a better deal to do direct to the manufacturer's website and order each individual component vs buying the generic kit. Teflon tape and pipe thread sealant are both required when making metal-to-metal connections: The teflon tape allows the connect the snug up, but the pipe thread sealant is what actually makes the connection airtight under pressure. All of the other details provided in this video about thread size, water vapor management, and compressor basics are spot on. I spent so much time researching this and these guys nailed it in a 15min video

[@pascalvandenbroek5479]

Awesome video Bob! You actually inspired me to get into woodworking, I'm going to design and build a small bench for our balcony. Also, a tip for you car project: get a powdercoat machine and a oven for that. Powdercoating is super easy and you can really bring old parts back to life with an indestructible coating. My dad and I have been working on motorcycles a long time together and this was a real game changer. It's not super expensive, and trust me, you'll get back your investment easy once you try it, we basically powdercoat everything from metal or aluminum that fits into our oven. Perfect for brackets and all that other small and medium sized stuff. I can't wait till the next video, keep up the good work guys!

[@thadeusbaggins9967]

Can I ask what kind of oven you're using? I'd like to set up a powder coating station in the garage, but I don't have much space, and I'm cheap. :) Thanks in advance!

[@roosterandco]

Very fun! I plumbed my small woodshop in using a similar looking kit; much smaller diameter though. In my experience, all QD connections leak to some degree. Eliminate them wherever possible. Ideally, you'll only have the quick disconnect at the tool/hose connection, and everything else will be screwed in with teflon. I also put in a couple strategically placed valves in my system, so that I can work on this section or that without having to blow down the entire system.

[@Realism91]

We need ProjectFarm to test all the brands and find one that doesn't leak.

[@djdabney]

Great video! If I would recommend anything I would put the moisture filter away from the tank 25 feet to 30 feet because the moisture won’t be able to be filtered closer than that. That is if you will be using it for paint.

[@heatherdee8043]

This oddly-specific niche video is absolutely invaluable to me! I took over a custom frame shop and inherited their compressor system - but I have NO idea what I'm looking at. I know how to turn it on and how to use it but if something were to go wrong, I would have absolutely no clue where to start. Watching this (and following the discourse in the comments) has helped me to identify basic parts of their system and to understand what they are, what they do, and why they are where they are. Amazing content! 👏

[@swampcastle8142]

I have the exact same piping system in my garage. Love it. Of course I have a lot of battery operated tools so things like sanders, impact guns, and nailers don't get much use these days. Mine is mostly used for blowing dust/clean up, painting, and the air hammer for demo work. Tip: the nicer flexible rubber hoses are sweet, but they rot out relatively quickly. This goes double for the one on the reel. Check them before you get knee deep into a project and find yourself with a half dozen leaks.

[@williamjbivens1956]

In case of mishaps, quick disconnects should always be pointed down. You do not want anything blown back at you at full pressure.

[@martintopp1399]

HI there from NZ. So glad you and your Son were not injured. Wow...what a mess. This thing did some serious damage! I seem to remember that we kept our Compressor outside when I was doing commercial spray painting. Thanks for the warning! It's interesting that we have to get our Gas bottles tested every 10 yrs, but there is no testing requirements for an air compressor tank.

[@graywalters2129]

My tip is that when you measure know that the size of the holes on your fittings will be much bigger than the parts name because of the npt system. If the hole actually measures 1/2” then it’ll be probably a 1/4” npt, I recommend looking up a chart so you’re not confused and buy the wrong parts

[@nabicht]

I've been waiting for this one! Been contemplating plumbing air to the places I use it the most in the shop and this is very helpful. Thank you.

[@BigHeinen]

One small addition I made on my system is a 6" to 8" 'drip leg' between the multi-port block and the drain valve shown @ 8:26. This allows any water (condensate) that accumulates to fall -below- the outlet on the front face of the block. In the system shown in this video, any condensate just accumulates right AT the quick disconnect outlet. No Bueno friends! Great video and thanks!

[@F479999999999]

Would you be kind enough to upload a short video about it?

[@F479999999999]

Do you mean simply adding a 6-8” peice do that same pipe and then screwing in the quarter turn valve at the bottom?

[@ullasbell5208]

I installed a few largge air systems in the states back in the mid 80s. We used pvc pipe joined with the standard blue pvc glue. It is rated at over 400 psi - more than adequate for a suply like your compressor with a 175 psi maximum. We ran a ring around the workshop at below ceiling height - a ring so that there is no pressure drop at the far end of the pipe. All draw off points exited from the TOP of the ring then back down to the regulator / air draw off points which had a valve at the lowest point to drain moisture. Drops were taken from over the top so that moisture wouldn't run down to where air was being drawn. The ring also had a deliberate low point where a bleed valve was located to drain any moisture from the ring. I had a mechanics shop in Australia for about 10 years and all the air to the shop was supplied in pvc pipes using the same setup. There were a couple of failed joints in the first week or so but after they were fixed it never leaked again.

[@stevensonjsh]

The problem with using PVC in this way is that while it is rated for high pressures, it fails catastrophically, especially out in the air like this. It isn’t UV resistant, and degrades over time. So, yes, it can work, but might literally blow up in your face and send shards of pvc everywhere. It’s really not a good choice for pressurized air applications.

[@igorbaldo]

I recently upgraded my compressor and I can tell you that your installation is impressive! Congratulations!

[@SeanBZA]

Will add that about the best thing to add to that tank is the electric auto drain. That will keep water at a minimum, and you will not have to remember to drain it every so often, plus it dumps the water before it can corrode the steel. Just have to arrange it so it operates with the compressor, so you will need to have a slightly more complex system of control, instead of the basic switch on the tank, though that will still be in use to control the compressor itself. Normally up to 30 seconds of drain and up to 45 minutes of off time, I would, for hat kind of use, set to the longest off time, and around 5 seconds on time. Also they can be noisy, so put a big exhaust silencer on the dump side, though I went for a simpler solution and just used 5m of 5mm tubing, so the dynamic restriction made it quieter, but would not clog up at all with the little bits of rust trapped in the water. Maintenance on them is simply to check the mesh filter on it every so often, preferably every month depending on how corroded the tank itself is, along with the compressor oil. Very important with any compressor tank is that it needs to be pressure tested every few years, actual time depends on where you are, by me it is 5 years. This will check the tank still is safe to use, and also the pressure valve, relief valve and switch are still operating correctly, and the tank is not going to fail. Especially on a big tank like that, they can destroy the workshop when they pop, and will often only have a tiny leak before they split along the weak point.

[@ThatGeekyMaker]

Good stuff! I had a similar setup in my old shop and was missing it so I finally got a chance to redo it in my new shop. I used to not even want to use my compressor now it's so convenient.

[@pyrothepenguin]

I appreciate your comment about getting one of the hose reels even if you dont do all the rest. I've been contemplating it as I have a pancake and a slightly bigger sausage compressor. I plan on leaving one parked and hooked up to one of those reels. Seems like a way more simple cleanup than dealing with all the hose. Thanks for another great video!

[@CTmoog]

Nice job Bob! That system is sweet!

[@Stooperify]

This video is wicked. I'm a LONG way off doing this in my shop. But, when I do, I'll definitely be coming back to this as a reference! Thanks Bob!! You're a legend.

[@jasonchaney5382]

A hose reel is absolutely the best thing I've ever installed in my garage.

[@RemmorbLeime]

Then you will also love an extension cord reel. Kind of the same but for electrical supply.

[@jasonchaney5382]

@@RemmorbLeime I installed 6 separate 20A (120v) quad receptacles and two 240v single phase receptacles. I'm never more than a few steps from power. Cable reels would be next to useless for me.

[@jasonchaney5382]

@@jeremyspecce I've got the Husky one from Home Depot. Picked it up on a whim. Been very happy with it.

[@mikesmidlifemisadventures]

Yes! Lots more ghia content! I have a 57 beetle that I’ve been putting off body work on. I’m hoping to be inspired!

[@chrispryor436]

I have absolutely no need for an air compressor, or air compressor system, but i like this channel so much i watched the entirety anyway! The personality of Bob just lures you in.

[@mrsfgogo09]

Another good thing to add to your arsenal for your air tools is swivel joints. Hope that helps everybody out.

[@IzzoCello]

Very cool. My former boss did pvc and it worked fine till I tripped on a hose and broke off the pvc at the connector. I disappeared into a cloud of dust lol. Next version was black pipe and that worked well. This looks nice and easy. Thanks!

[@IzzoCello]

@@jeremyspecce man that sounds sweet!

[@tavarisjones551]

Air compressor fittings and sizes are way more complicated than they need to be. Just one thing to note, be sure to use the V-Style couplers for your high flow tools like impacts, grinders, and sanders. They flow more than the traditional industrial and automotive style couplings. The V style are also backwards compatible so you can still connect them to the older fittings.

[@ievilpunk]

I have pretty much all the same stuff in my garage just waiting for warmer days to actually install. Glad to see I was on the right track when impulse buying it all!

[@patrickschardt7724]

At my last job, I did testing on pressure regulators. The compressor and tank were massive but I still managed to drain the tank. It was loud but very useful The system had 1” and 2” steel pipe connections with some of that flexi-rigid plastic aluminum tubing This system looks great. Nice work

[@Sidday91]

Peep that Donut Media sticker on the toolbox. Would love to see that collab

[@Iliketomakestuff]

That would be awesome, those guys are great!

[@plasmaman9592]

I bought this same airline system in 3/4" and love it! I got extra stations so i have a total of 8 stations.

[@trinitivehd]

I have the exact same air compressor and same kit already, I was just looking up videos on how to do it and you are using the same thing!! Thank you so much! I’m starting my own business and I needed to get my shop lined.

[@TheFlyingMasterChef]

This was exactly what I needed. I am going to be putting in a totally new system and I have never had one before. Thank you for this!!!!

[@Breezer56]

Grappler130 has it exactly! You need to run your air line at least 25' before installing any type filter to give the warm air time to cool down or it will not condense the water. So that being said, the water filter system you have shown will not do anything to take out any water. Simply move the water filter system 25' downstream and yur good to go. Try it and let me know if you're in agreement!

[@Airn5475]

Great job on the video Bob! I know you weren’t sure whether to do one or not, but you nailed it.

[@Immashift]

Even if you have a dinky compressor, buying a half decent impact to work on a car in addition to your hand tools and maybe your cordless will really save you some time. There are some bolts on cars that just will not budge. Unless you have a very good electric impact or can use a long breaker bar, a pneumatic is the only thing that will break them. So for the first year I did car maintenance in my driveway I had just a little 2 gallon compressor, but that was enough to drive the impact for the second or two it takes to break something loose.

[@GeeKayKayGee]

Starting at the start. 1: It would be nice if the first fitting on the tank was a street 90 then ball valve. As connected now the flexible air hose has some extra strain on it as it has to sweep through 180 degrees instead of just 90 . 2: Isolation between the tank feet and the concrete floor. Cork pads wrapped with rubber are common and adequate. 3: Those M size fittings are somewhat restrictive for tools needing high CFM. 4: Ideally the drops coming off of the main line should come off the top of the line so that any water precipitate in the line doesn't run down the drop, collect, and contaminate the air flow when you eventually use that particular drop. 5: The main line, ideally, should have a continuous slope downwards to the furthest end where it should have means to purge and drain any water, oil or other contaminates that may have collected in that run. 6: Equipment such as a sandblaster, a plasma arc cutter or paint sprayers must have clean dry air. A water filter followed by desiccant dryer should be installed/utilized as close as possible to the point of usage. On a cabinet sandblaster mounting an air drying system on the cabinet would be recommended. On your pressure pot sandblaster dry air is not as critical as the blasting media (sand) isn't be recirculated and reused.

[@theamaturepro]

9:20 now I fully understand where babies come from! Haha, great video. There's a ton of useful information here.

[@tburda823]

We put that same system in our shop, and my buddy ordered it to outfit his garage. Absolutely great system.

[@sstorholm]

If you don’t wanna mess with straightening pipe, John Guest makes an excellent system with push fit couplers that’s really fast to install, as it uses all plastic tubes that can be cut with an oversized PEX cutter. I’d recommend upsizing the fixed pipe work as much as possible, as every foot of pipe introduces pressure loss, in my shop I think I went with 25mm internal diameter. Same with hose reels, you want a half inch fixed pipe feeding 3/8” hose. If you can get all your pipe work to slope down to a single spot, you can put an automatic water drain on that, only down side is that all the pipe work needs to go up to to the outlets, not down. Also have a look at CEJN couplers, they have a safety coupler that half releases, drains the pressure in the tool or hose you’re disconnecting, and only when the pressure is gone finally lets go of the tool, preventing you from shooting air tools all over the shop.

[@mdn642]

Thanks for showing this process…I purchased this product a while ago and you just gave me the push to install it

[@TheBarefootForge]

Inspirational! I’m definitely going to look into some of these products to outfit my shop- thanks for the detailed video!

[@noaht124]

Yesssss right on my lunch break 😎

[@SchysCraftCo.]

Very nice job Bob. Very nice video. This video was very nice and very helpful and definitely useful and information. Thanks so much. Can't wait to see more videos soon Bob. Hopefully you get great use out of it for many years to come Bob. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Keep making. God bless.

[@TheSmugglersRoom]

Yep . . . NEEDED this! Thanks for sharing!

[@razinhailsharp]

Nice setup! The one thing you didn't mention about PVC is that it's not recommended because when it fails it tends to shatter and at pressure that basically turns it into a frag grenade. Even if the PVC is rated for the pressure you are running, when you stop using a tool that sends a shockwave back through the system and PVC can't handle that at all. That's how it ends up failing most of the time from what I've seen. Also, your connectors (especially on the harbor freight hose reel) are severely limiting your setup. Replacing them with high flow connectors will improve things by a significant amount. It's shocking. When I was first building up my setup I had 1/4 hose and connectors everywhere because it was cheap. Even on a system that restrictive, moving to high flow connectors made a world of difference. When I stepped up to a 3/8 system I tested and again the difference from "normal" to high-flow connectors was amazing. In some cases (like an air gun to blow dust away) the 1/4 hose with high flow connectors beat the 3/8 hose with "normal" connectors.

[@scottydog1313]

A quick and easy way to store your air tools is to make a wooden shelf from 2 by lumber. Attach female quick connects to the underside. Drill a hole through the end of the connector, run a screw through to attach it, and you can snap in your tools for storage. You can get brass female connectors for under $3.00 each in bulk.

[@luchvk]

This is a really nice video for this subject. I don't have a big compressor but the tubing that you used to plumb your air-system looks like a great choice! It looks like you're only using standard 1/4" fittings. You can get better performance from some of your tools if you use higher flow fittings. Either larger fittings that step down to 1/4" or 1/4" high-flow fittings would work well. You could pick one or two spots to use the higher-flow fittings. This would let you use high-flow tools while letting your shop still be compatible with standard 1/4" fittings.

[@joshwiley881]

Cool man. Those connectors look easy to use. I'll keep that in mind when the time comes.

[@StevenCrothers]

PEX is rated for about 160PSI, which is fine for 99.9% of all home garages. PVC, I agree with you, PVC is bad news bears because it shatters. PEX though is 100% fine for all your home workshop needs.

[@traktorworks3200]

an impressive vid. clear, simple, logical. thanks for your effort.

[@buildxyz]

Excellent video packed with facts. I was not aware of the piping alternative. I’ll be watching this one again when I tackle the compressor upgrade (not as beefy as yours)

[@AdamsLab]

All that and ya left the compressor on the pallet :). If you ever take it off the pallet, you'll want it on some anti-vibration pads, and you bolt it to the floor but leave the bolts a little loose. You don't want the compressor rigidly attached to the floor. You can leave the tank filled all the time, you just need to periodically purge it. This can be done manually but there are electronic valves that will purge a small amount of air from the tank every x number of minutes. For your case, remote location, you're not at all the time probably not a big deal, but it was a game changer just being able to leave my compressor on all the time and have it ready to go. On the quick connectors, there are different types - Automotive, Industrial, and ARO. They have "universal" versions (both male and female) but I've have not had good luck with those (they leak). I recommend you pick the standard for your shop and stick with that. I picked industrial and just swap the fitting on tools if needed. The piping system Bob used is probably overkill for most people. The same company (RapidAir) makes an all plastic (no metal insert) version that works great and is less expensive.

[@paulhartong2110]

Great video! I've been waiting for this one since you mentioned in on Making It!

[@jeremyhansen714]

For a small run like what you have there your setup is fine but if you do anything bigger you want to connect your main run of piping in a loop with drops running off that. This way you get consistent pressure at at ports. Great video!

[@BrendansReasons]

the pipe in that kit seems really cool. Thanks for sharing that with us

[@Rouverius]

This is great. Reminds me of the DIY dust collector... wait, has it really been seven years!?!? Time flies when watching ILTMS. 😁

[@aaaa1450]

Regarding the comment on quick connect fittings- "This part is pretty standard". Not at all the case and can be a headache if you don't buy all of your fittings together and/or pay attention to what you're getting. M vs A vs T vs V style have subtle but very real profile differences. What's worse is some are compatible between types male to female but not female to male. Then you've got regular and high-flow with similar issues. Most you'll find at Lowes are Industrial or M-Style but I see Automotive T available there as well.

[@TheGingerWorkshop]

Fantastic video! I will definitely use this info for my next shop.

[@Stubones999]

A piston compressor is LOTS quieter than a diaphragm compressor. I had a 5hp diaphragm style compressor that was too loud to be in the same room while it was working. The nice thing about a diaphragm compressor is that the output air is oil-free. A piston compressor will leak some oil into the output air. If you're going to use air to paint stuff, you need a dryer and a good filter to catch the oil from the compressor. If you're using pneumatic tools, they need oil to reliably operate. It would be a good idea to set up two separate air supply lines, one with dryers and filters and one with a oiler for the tools. Just mark the hose connections so you don't mix them up. There is also a automatic valve to release a bit of air with each compressor start to drain any condensation collected in the tank.

[@thediydentalchairguy7269]

You should of just ordered a air tool holder organizer, you hang the tools by the bottom male side of the connector, for bigger tools like the impact you can use a piece of 2x4 to space it away from the wall. Works great we have quite a few of them.

[@howardmoody9379]

where do you buy them?

[@stefanitadio6236]

You're a good explainer! And a good outtake sharer.

[@demonfire691]

One thing to remember when you’re buying couplers is there are 3 different kinds; automotive, industrial and universal. If you connect an automotive coupler to an industrial coupler you will get leaks. Universal couplers ( in my experience) leak with everything, and this is why a lot of the time air tools don’t come with a coupler.

[@ItsMeGiga]

Yep, most people will just junk the connectors when they get the tool, plus it reduces the cost by a couple bucks.

[@TheAussiePirate]

I asked the fitter at work about that and he said they’re all the same. Sheesh 🙄

[@demonfire691]

@@TheAussiePirate they do look extremely similar but there are small differences in design. It’s hard to describe but if you look at an automotive and industrial male coupler side by side you’ll see that they are different

[@halfstep67]

I've been using the Milton V-style high-flow fittings, and they work really well.

[@jeffreysmith5018]

Nice set up. I have a similar one I set up about 10 years ago I did it with pex. No issues

[@Osme79]

Nice setup 👌

[@BDLCalton]

Nice system.

[@JonathanRansom]

Wish I saw this system when I was plumbing my shop air... also, that compressor is huge!

[@stefanxlindstrom]

I really liked the metric conversions, thanks

[@plasmaman9592]

all homeowner grade compressor companies lie/ misrepresent cfm, just like every shop vac after 2004. The way they get the (fake) cfm is by measuring the cfm of the air coming into the compressor @ a given tank psi. If you need a certain cfm for a tool that is going to be used continuously like a plasma cutter, paint gun, sand blaster, or whatever you need to get a much higher labeled cfm. I found this out the hard way when I bought a kobalt 5hp 80 gal 14.5 cfm @ 90 psi for my cnc plasma that needed less than that rating. It kept dropping too low. When i contacted the plasma manufacturer they explained what i just said, they said you don't get real cfm ratings until you look at individual compressors. I ended up putting a larger 7.5 hp motor and bigger pulley to overdrive the compressor. I'm sure it will give out way sooner, but it works for now.

[@glencarolo2597]

As always, great job.

[@SmoofDizzle]

Yoo this is awesome! that's the same setup we use in our assembly shop! Really cool seeing it all put together like that.

[@DesignMakeFix]

Very informative like usual.. take it easy on your joints and tendons, Bob. We still want to learn more from you!!

[@krisdebeuker]

A few years ago I bought a silent compressor (brand Whispair). The best investment I ever did!

[@redpeterpanda]

Thank you so much for your informative videos, I've learned so much that I am able to make my own projects possible

[@markdarden4066]

Love the video! Way easier then hard pipe, I always had regulars at each port because each tool has psi needs

[@handymadness]

I have a two car garage and didn't need to run a bunch of pipe which helps get the water out of the lines. So I made a 80 linear foot copper radiator that sits between the compressor and my hose reel.

[@Cochran05]

Nice find with the Maxline product!!

[@sapelesteve]

Terrific air compressor Bob and very nice set up! I would seriously consider housing that unit in its own separate enclosure for both noise reduction & just in case it ever fails & explodes! That would not make for a very good day in the shop! 😉😉👍👍

[@luvshak3095]

Want. Have literally zero need for such a system. Still.....want. Awesome video. Thanks for sharing.

[@MCsCreations]

Pretty impressive system, Bob! Fantastic! 😃 I have a small compressor here, but it's working well for now... Until I buy a some new tool. Well, we shall see. 😬 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@nathan4233]

Pex is fine, im a plumber, I actually test all the pipe with air, I also leave 120 psi on the pex so if someone hits it they know, sometimes it has to hold for months before the air is taken out. Very cheap and easy to work with

[@ramizism]

Awesome Man!

[@alanchang9133]

We use 316L stainless tubing and swagelok fitting on all of our compressed air lines. Very good product and very reliable, I highly recommend everyone using it. There are absolutely no soft components on our system, and they're 100% stainless.

[@jamesavery9236]

Bob...was that a Donut sticker? Well played sir. Well played.

[@joseurbalejo]

THANKS for the video. Keep up the good work 👍

[@Iliketomakestuff]

No problem 👍

[@Designsbyg]

Nice video. Thank you. I did the same thing at my home. 60 gal out in the garage with airlines running thru the house/garage. All copper lines. Electric valve on the tank with switches in the garage and basement shop. I can barely hear it in the house. It only runs for 2 min. sitting on round marine dock bumpers with machined top caps. greatly reduces noise.

[@mmsocialmedia926]

Your video was awesome thank you

[@yousefaldusari3644]

Thank you soooooooo much for the video ❤❤❤❤

[@Skipdogg15]

I put in the same system. I love it. But one thing i did that you didnt is i put regulators on the blocks but used a T fitting just before so i have unregulated air for running impacts or what not. I know they say 90 psi or whatever but they work way better at 160 lol

[@ThickCutBacon]

Awesome video!

[@KJ_mustang.04]

That was a great video but u can modify a couple things is that on your retracting hose reel that black knob that by your quick connect u can change bring it closer or farther from the quick disconnect coupler and it will change how high or low u want the hose to come down so that u dont have to reach up and grab it it can rest at a comfortable height to where when u need it it right there and u grab it. Also to instead of that coil hose as a temporary connector of your drain box at the end of the blue hose line to the reel either shorten it where the beam is leading to the reel and connecting a hose straight to it or run it along the beam or a T-Connector where the beam right by the reel so that it gives it a cleaner look

[@ajosepi1976]

When using a paint gun, you want the most flexible hose you can find to attach to the gun. About 15 to 20 feet long. You can hook that to a normal less flexible hose for reach. You also want a second water trap between that hose and your wall mounted hoses. You need a good 20 or 30 foot of air line to get the water to condense properly. If you are painting in a really humid area, you can wrap a roll of hose up in a cooler with ice and have super dry air. When spraying take the flexible hose and wrap it around your arm so that it hangs off your elbow. If you want to get really serious, I have seen guys tie the hose to their belt behind them and keep the hose in tight, but I have had good luck with one or two wraps around my arm.

[@iamie153]

Good start. A couple of things. Not all the quick connectors are the same or interchangeable so you have to be careful to make sure any additional ones you get are the same as you have. You have to be particularly care in this area if anyone is buying a cheap tool - e.g. a tyre inflator, as not all tools allow you to interchange the connector. You will also need two separate lines or connections if you are planning to do spray painting. i.e. air tools should have an oiler in the line to keep them lubricated, whereas you do not want the oiler on the line you are using for spraying. Most people with largish compressors eventually end up building a shelter outside for them. :-)

[@saigyl9149]

I saw an amazing setup a month ago for keeping moisture out of the tank by running the compressed air through a radiator that was mounted in line with the fan then the air goes through a water separator and then it goes into the tank