INFINITI G35 / Nissan 350z - Fix Clutch Pedal - Bleed Install Slave Cylinder

I show you how to fix a sticky clutch pedal and how to bleed the system, along with installing a new slave cylinder.
Please subscribe to my channel for some of the best content on the G35.
350 HP G35 - Dyno Tuned Gain +37whp/45wtq
Performance Mods:
- KW v3 Coilovers
- Injen CAI
- NWP 75mm throttle body
- Motordyne MREV2
- Motordyne 5/16th spacer
- Motordyne v3 ART pipes
- Motordyne Shockwave TDX2 exhaust.

[@MotordyneG35]

TSB report from Infiniti on GTR brake fluid to use for the Slave Cylinder. www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=www.infinitig37.com/TSB/ITB13-005a.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwisjenv3sDXAhUK5WMKHUz3CdIQFggcMAA&usg=AOvVaw1iNmlyjESNrwVbqMhXYyL0

[@g35tho11]

Motordyne G35 this won’t apply for models 03-06 tho..right?

[@SuperDanlex]

Thanks so much! My pedal got stuck to the floor on the highway I luckily was able to pull it back with my foot and basically shift in between without any fluid 😬but I pulled to the side and pump it to make it back home.

[@Znthusiast]

Motordyne G35 great video, I subbed a while ago because I saw how meticulous you are with your work. The quality and depth of your videos really help the Z/G community. It's good to see that you're still producing great content! 👍

[@rollinthesweets6147]

Man after looking through multiple install videos for pretty much every maintenance item throughout the years I always end up using yours as they are some of the most thorough...Thanks for making these man, as these cars are aging your videos are becoming more and more valuable haha 🙏🙏🤙🏽

[@jake369]

Thanks for this video. I am upgrading my entire clutch system and the shop wants to charge me $450 just to do this. But after seeing how simple it really is I'll just do it myself.

[@AaronNewman]

Awesome video bro! All of the G35/350z slave videos out there never go in-depth like you did in this video. Great explanation. Wish I had this video when I was trying to learn how to do mine! I replaced my master and slave and I was still getting a sticky clutch where it would stick half way. I bled it perfectly, yet I was still getting the issue. Turned out my entire pedal assembly was bad and extremely difficult for the master to push back up. Now that I have my RJM pedal, I couldn't be happier.

[@MotordyneG35]

Thanks again, bud. I watched your sticky clutch video so between the both of our videos, 1 of them will help the people. I have not done the RJM pedal swap either like you, but I have not had an issue with my pedal assembly. Over the years, I like the high engagement point. I also have never replaced the master either, maybe that is why my fluid keeps turning black. I guess it is only a matter of time, my day is coming and I will be checking out yor RJM video again, if I run into issues like you and need to buy the swap.

[@AaronNewman]

For sure. After using the RJM pedal for some time I decided to re-adjust it to have my engagement point towards the top. The extra length towards the bottom of the pedal gives my shifter a much smoother gear change, even with my chattery single mass haha. The higher engagement point also allows me to change gears faster so I don't have to press down as far or as hard, it's mint!

[@spardakips5494]

watching u struggle with the bleeder entertained me lol

[@genekor]

Thank you, very helpful video. Was able to replace it on my G35 pretty fast. Now clutch fills like new!

[@notafraid551]

I love you dude, I just got a g35 and this is so clutch for me, I was about to get a mechanic to do this for me, thanks brother

[@Skaterdrifter]

Excellent video! Please keep it up, I can never learn too much and each vid makes my G that much nicer. Thanks for all the hard work and commitment bruddah!

[@MotordyneG35]

Stay tuned, I'll keep adding more and more as the journey with the G continues. Thank you for the feedback!

[@Skaterdrifter]

Motordyne G35 for sure

[@raiden5452]

Skaterdrifter his videos are awesome and help us have a better g35. Many thanks Motordyne G35!

[@Skaterdrifter]

Rudy De La Torre they are a godsend. I can't wait till the next one! (but his exhaust tho!!)

[@MotordyneG35]

I'm going to San Diego next weekend, so making a video on that trip. I have some other ideas on stuff, but what would you guys like to see? Ideas are welcome.

[@Z33Garage]

The Z has the biggest POS bleeding system. I am going to replace my factory hardline/ softline with braded lines in about a week. This way I can 100% bleed the brakes without the nissan valve system getting in between.

[@raiden5452]

Thanks Motordyne! I just replaced my clutch fluid and Slave Cylinder with no issues.🤘

[@MotordyneG35]

Way to tackle the job yourself, nice work. After doing it, you realize, how easy it really is.

[@g35tho11]

Did you leave reservoir cap on or off ?

[@RellekZone64]

Appreciate the video, my son and I did the same to mine. Probably will need to bleed it out again. Kudos!!!

[@RellekZone64]

Hi, i'm getting a little clutch lapping between 1st and 2nd gear. before changing the slave. it went away but is starting to come back. Mostly when the car is cold mine is an 05 6mt G35 Sport sedan. Have heard that they are noisey but want your opinion on what it could be. Cluth and fly wheel was replaced by dealer I purchased from in Feb 2018 they did not do the slave. The slave was changed about a month or so ago after watching your vid same deal Oreilleys w/lifetime waranty. Also should I switch to the GTR fluid, the TSB show for 2008 and up. Thanks for the assist.

[@xxyokaixx336]

I like how I have no pressure. Every thing is oem and brand new. No leaks. You immediately had pressure

[@georgesanchez9971]

NIce tip on the heat wrap. I will do the same. Thanks!

[@MyBlkG35]

Nice and helpful video. I think the pushrod goes with the other end through the boot. The pushrod has a grove at one end where the boot hooks. The smooth side goes in the slave

[@troythompson9464]

Was just checking this because I too knew it to go reverse what he said. My old push rod was with groove to boot.

[@matthewsetzer5251]

Hope fully I can get mine installed tomorrow and get back on the road

[@Runescape.]

look at all those air bubbles he says, as his hand blocks the entire camera view. love that part!!!!!

[@zeperf88]

Tried to replace the hard line with a braided one, but stripped the top fitting even with the special brake line wrench. Bleeding was a pain. Tried a bunch of different methods and could never get more than a little bit of pressure. I gave up and took the car off the stands. I started pumping the pedal with my foot and after a few minutes had good pressure. After a few days I had perfect pressure. So idk what advice to give me except pump the shit out of it.

[@white9th193]

I drive a civic Si and I will use your video for the bleeding and refilling process ! Thanks a million mate

[@nathanmartinez6907]

Thanks again for the great videos! Quick question... So you replaced the slave at 140k then again at 160k? Was it already failing?

[@MotordyneG35]

Nathan Martinez ....No it was not failing. I needed a video idea for youtube and if you return the core a new slave is always free at Orileys, no questions asked.

[@jasonpavlik4904]

you installed your slave push rod backwards. See page CL-11 of the 2006 350z TSM. The neck part goes into the rubber boot. The way you have it will wear out the cup part of the piston.

[@dungdoan9830]

Nice 👍 thanks 😊 now I can change it out on my 06 g35 sports coupe 🤙🏼🤙🏼

[@GrimKatProduction]

Hello, I know this is an older video but still very informative and relevant since I drive an 06 350z. I have couple questions regarding this mushy pedal issue/fix job. First, how to differentiate a bad slave cylinder and a bad master cylinder, symptoms seem the same regarding the "mushy" pedal feel, or how it's described in some forums as abnormal pedal behavior. And in your opinion if neither have been serviced before, should I replace both? Second, this may sound a little silly but when you are bleeding the system do you fill the reservoir to full before the bleeding process? I couldn't really tell in the video. As a vq owner I can't thank you enough for the videos you post, it's been a great learning experience and definitely saves us a lot of money.

[@Turtlefarm]

Guys i just thought I’d share an extra tip.. if you’re not changing the stainless flex line at least change the washers.. the copper crush washers … it may not seem like it’s leaking but it can leak just enough to introduce air into the system.. I was bleeding 101 different ways and 50 different times.. and I always had air in the system and couldn’t build past a certain pressure… it was actually enough air that I couldn’t get into 1st gear or R from a stop.

[@stylewithaltitude]

I'm having issues getting into 1st gear and reverse! Do you think I need to replace the slave or just the washers? Btw, you should make a video on the washers you're talking about!

[@Turtlefarm]

@@stylewithaltitude is there any way grease or oil could of gotten into the flywheel? I ended up replacing my clutch… but I’m 90% sure the entire issue was created when I tried to use white lithium grease to lube the release fork and throw out bearing.. I just pulled down the rubber boot and sprayed… but I believe I got grease on the flywheel and that’s what was causing the pressure plate to slip and preventing me from 1st and R.. if you rev the engine while trying will it go into first gear?? Also make sure you have the pedal adjusted too.. if the car rolls with clutch in then it should not have an issue with it falling into gear.

[@Turtlefarm]

@@stylewithaltitude you’re only needing to replace slave if it leaks.. the issue is not slave related if it isn’t leaking..

[@stylewithaltitude]

@@Turtlefarm I got a single mass flywheel clutch kit and the problem started about 2 weeks after installing...Replaced the clutch master cylinder and now having a hard time getting into, especially 1st and reverse... grinds gears or super hard to shove it into those gears... its cringe to hear them grind into gear our super hard to get them in... as the car continues to get warm... the problem goes away?

[@Turtlefarm]

@@stylewithaltitude did you do the clutch yourself? It’s possible you over greased the pilot bushing. And some grease has came up onto the flywheel. What transmission do you have? Made sure you have fluid in it?! How’s your clutch release point? At the top of the pedal? Near the bottom? It’s strange that this is with a new clutch.. wich I why I think it’s just grease in a bad place. May of been over greased. When installed.. sorry for the 100 questions

[@jasonpooler6811]

Black residue is from the internal lining of the hoses breaking down. In advance if you still have it I’d try upgraded clutch lines to save the hassle a little

[@kevinjohn6118]

Extremly helpfull!!! Pedal feel smooth!

[@louispd6828]

I tried to bled my clutch slave and the problem I have is that I dont get a good seal around the slave fitting threads. Even at the slightest loosening air gets suck in during the pumping process making it impossible to bled. Should I tried a different brand slave, ?? This one I got from my local auto parts. I read of people using plumbing thread tape, but I dont want to take chances and get a random piece of tape in my clutch line....

[@muradtravels]

Where can I see your maintenance logs? my 2005 manual g35 coupe has about 125k miles on it and I am trying to keep this car forever.

[@W.Khairi]

Great Video Man, Thanks a lot , By the way that was really nice exhaust note much like my z, its so addictive man.

[@chris6472001]

Super helpful video thanks man!

[@myg35rage23]

Great video. Will do mind soon

[@juancerna3388]

Really helpful bro honestly 👍

[@alexanderestk]

I loosened my bleed valve and the fluid didn’t drain. I also took off the slave cylinder and my fluid won’t drain. I don’t understand

[@alexanderestk]

For anybody having this problem; Take off the slave cylinder and let the fluid line dangle in a catch can. Go inside your car and pound on your clutch pedal until the fluid comes out.

[@Dennis-fc2vo]

Motordyne G35 many thanks for the helpful video! I just replaced my slave with a centric and installed it today with some brand new motul 5.1, I completely drained the fluid out and then once on I started the pressure build/ bleed process. I noticed that someone had mentioned on here as well about the pushrod being on the other way? Can you confirm that's the correct way? I noticed ours looked the same but different from OEM and so I couldn't exactly take a stand and followed your directions. Thanks again for a great video.

[@Dennis-fc2vo]

Also I noticed as I built pressure in the pedal and the fork was getting pressed, it has quite a squeak to it. I've seen that on other applications people throw some white grease on the contact point but ours is inside the bell housing and I'm not sure if that's something that should be done on ours even if its within reach. Any tip or ideas on what i can do to fix it?

[@MotordyneG35]

Thank you! Well, I did the install in June of 2017. It has been 1 year with no issues. I do remember someone saying that I installed the push rod in there wrong, but I haven't had any issues. I still believe I installed the pushrod the correct way. Now I think about, it obviously doesn't matter because the push rod is still the same length, either way, you install it. Just installing it correctly means the rubber boot is on correct.

[@MotordyneG35]

The squeaking is NOT coming from inside the bell housing, which the fork has the throw out bearing on it. The squeaking is coming from the clutch pedal in the car, mine does it. I even lubed it all up with white lithium grease and every once in a while, I will still get a creaking noise from the clutch pedal. It is normal, I know it sucks.

[@Dennis-fc2vo]

Motordyne G35 ok great I believe you're right and it really shouldn't matter.

[@Dennis-fc2vo]

Motordyne G35 you know at second look I think you're right about the squeaking as well, it just seemed when I was down there and the pedal was getting pressed that it was originating from the fork. But I feel the squeak in the pedal if that makes sense, and from time to time while driving it goes away

[@ernestsivia5573]

How much fluid does is normally take after a full change? For some reason I've had problems finding that. I have Liter of the DOT 4 GT-R

[@Spatticus]

Great video, found it very helpful!

[@wombatau]

Normally you put the tube on before you open it all the way, gotta love a corrosive brake/clutch fluid mess

[@MotordyneG35]

yep, my bad. I messed up on that part and I should have put the tube on first. Not really a big deal though.

[@mikeholt7533]

Was the slave cylinder that you removed leaking or was it just affected by heat and the elements causing it to stick.

[@AaronNewman]

Hey brotha, I've got a little issue maybe you can help. For the last few months I notice that when I let my car idle with the AC on for about 10 minutes, my clutch pedal gets much stiffer and the catching point is much higher. It's really weird. Even driving normally with the AC on for 20 minutes or so (city and highway) it stiffens up a little bit, but not as much as if I were idling for 10+ minutes. What do you think this could be? I have a 6 month old Master and slave cylinders. I have a feeling it's a failing slave, or could be a failing throw out bearing maybe? I tried to bleed and this still didn't fix it. Let me know what you think. I might start with replacing the slave since that is the cheapest. But since I have to fix a rear main seal leak, I could always put a new throw out bearing while I'm at it. I appreciate any advice!

[@MotordyneG35]

Aaron.......hmmmm.....didn't you just replace your clutch 6 months ago? My throw out bearing exploded at 80,000 miles because I was cracking into the exhaust with the clutch pedal pushed in back at a Camaro. Once it exploded, when I depressed the clutch the car would die and smell like clutch. I can't remember if the pedal got stiffer at that point. I highly doubt your throw out bearing failed. Didn't you also just replace your rear main seal too? Aaron, what is going on? Shit news bro. I doubt it is also your slave cylinder, but if you bought at Oriely's you can swap it for free and find out. I replaced my slave a little earlier than I should just so I could make this video. It was exactly at 20,000 miles but you should be able to get 50k out of a slave. Honestly, I have no clue on this one, sorry man. The only thing I can think of is it will stiffen up first thing in the morning after a couple pumps because it builds back up pressure, especially if air is trapped in the system.

[@AaronNewman]

Thanks for the prompt reply bro. By your explanation it doesn't sound like my throw out bearing has exploded, and no smell of the clutch. However it was slipping more when it became more stiff because of the higher catching point pretty much at the top of the pedal (which with the RJM clutch I can adjust). After leaving the car off for a few hours the pedal went back to normal. I did do my rear main seal and upper oil pan gasket while I did the clutch but unfortunately, I must have not done a very good job as I've got oil coming from the bell housing. Much more now than before lol. I bought the slave at AutoZone, so maybe next time I'll get it from Oriely's. I might just need to spend time properly bleeding the system to feed my issue. Because I didn't spend much time on bleeding it before. I just find it weird that it stiffens up without pumping it, and just leaving it idle. Very weird to me that having the AC on affects it as well. I'll try to bleed it good this weekend and get back to you.

[@ViziEdits]

If we're replacing both the master clutch cylinder and slave, do I have to bleed anything with the master clutch cylinder as well? Or just replace the master clutch cylinder, then replace the slave cylinder and bleed the system?

[@stylewithaltitude]

I wish he would respond more to his subs but I assume just bleed one since the other part is still keeping pressure?

[@JashanTaggar]

I can't get pressure in my clutch pedal... Replaced the master cylinder, bench bled it also, the slave cylinder does not actuate and I get occasional drips of fluid coming out of it.

[@jnagime]

I have a 03 350z and my has a cover over the Slave?

[@TheXTutorialsx]

Only the g didn’t come with em

[@matthewsetzer5251]

That sucks. My 05 350 dosent have a cover

[@JammyClarkie]

Hi, fantastic video, thanks! When I tried to drain the fluid from the bleed valve, nothing came out when I loosened the nut! I had the cap off the reservoir. Shall I just continue to remove the main line and hope it comes out that way!? Many thanks

[@techwiz2410]

Can you please help me!! I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla that just got a new clutch installed. Once installed I noticed the clutch pedal was weak when pressing. I tried to bleed the system at the slave cylinder but couldn’t get it to keep pressure at the slave so I replaced the master cylinder. (Thinking it had weak pressure overall) the clutch pedal would go to the floor when bleeding the slave and would get stuck down. I’d have to pull the pedal back up to get pressure back. After the master cylinder was replaced I got the same pedal to the floor experience when bleeding at the slave. When the pedal gets stuck the only way to get my pedal back with pressure was to pull it back out. I’m not sure what to do. The only other tip I can give is that when the pedal gets stuck to the floor when cracking the bleeder screw in the slave I close off the bleeder and can press in on the slave cylinder rod that is on the shift fork and as I press it down the clutch pedal pops back up. I’ve tried gravity bleeding it too and the pedal will again go to the floor. Would this be a bad slave and not master?? Or any idea?? When bleeding I had my fluid all the way full to eliminate any air. Thanks!!!

[@trmjd4048]

Why is there no pressure in the clutch pedal when trying to put clutch fluid in?

[@joshuav1088]

Do 2006 de rev have external or internal slave also they have the cd009 trans right ?

[@adrianaklar6290]

External

[@peterntiare]

For every body how watch this video dont forget to check your flued will blinding the line and top off after your done

[@charlesborboa4020]

Great video !! Quick dumb question .. when you are bleeding the slave do you leave the clutch fluid lid off ?

[@MotordyneG35]

No questions are dumb, thanks for watching. Yes, you leave the lid off when you bleed the system. If you are just bleeding the system, it is very important, to not let the clutch fluid reservoir get empty or air will get sucked into the system and it will take longer to bleed. So as you slowly drain fluid out, make sure to top off the clutch fluid reservoir.

[@charlesborboa4020]

Motordyne G35 thank you so much! I know you explained this but I just want to make sure .. on the slave metal piece(pole) itself the bigger part goes to the slave and the thinner part to the clutch correct ?

[@eiji81]

Dude how do you not have any cracks on your dash??? It looks so nice. Mine is all cracked.

[@driftez]

thx for video, shaft goes in the opposite direction though. grooved end facing outwards

[@matthewsetzer5251]

Wow I miss the desert and arizona

[@markjames7652]

Thanks for the vid. Appreciate it

[@matthewsetzer5251]

Thanks alot brother. Really appreciate the video

[@hectorivarrola]

Where did you order that cover I would to order one for my G35

[@quizzerboy101]

Very helpful video. Any tips on cleaning that junk out the reservoir?

[@juancotto6773]

Clean towel or pull out and put back dry

[@Frank_Karbo]

Help!! I can feel my clutch engagement start at 1/4 of my foot to the floor. Randomly recently my transmission is locking me out of all gears when i turn it on and grinding if i force it. at first i could mess with it and it would go into gear but now it will not, ive never had a single synchro grind when shifting accept for when i forced it when this problem started. It started with reverse now its all gears. Any thoughts? I ordered a new master cyl and slave. I have a stage 3 clutch w 31k on it never has slipped on me. Could it be simple as adjustment? Or slave? Pedal doesnt stick to the floor but grab point doesnt feel stiff like before i swapped my cd009 trans in. Any help much appreciated 🙏🏼 also it goes into gear perfectly fine when car is off so trans isnt locked or internally shifted

[@edwinjimenez631]

How long were you bleeding the clutch for ?

[@vegasxventures]

Good security for ~ $30 OEM too. I usually do it after a clutch change which I average at around 5 years.

[@MotordyneG35]

Oreilly's has a lifetime warranty. When I change it, every time, it cost me absolutely nothing. You can't really beat free, is why I did not go OEM. OEM fails sooner too.

[@robertm5969]

@@MotordyneG35 I looked on Oreilly's and the only one available is a Power Torque brand. Is that the one you got?

[@Turtlefarm]

Right now I am having an issue I can’t figure out.. help? I bought a car with a new clutch. At the beginning. as I started letting out the petal from the floor, the clutch would grab hard. Didn’t have any issues other than a tick when I had the petal out and in N… When I’d press it in the noise went away.. the slave cylinder was bad so I replaced it and the master as well, bled them really well. And still had the tick and the petal would be slow to return all the way.. it would Pop back 60% of the way then slowly the rest of the way.. if you let your foot off the petal fast it basically comes up and then slaps the bottom of your foot.. now when I have clutch pressed in all the way I can’t get into 1st gear.. sometimes if i shift into 4th then try 1st it will work but it’s stiff.. once I get it into 1st gear I can come back to neutral and any other gear ( keep in mind car isn’t moving at all during all this. Just clutch in and manipulating the shifter.) but say i go back to neutral and let the clutch out all the way, then press it in again.. im back to square1 … can’t get into 1st gear.. stiff as a rock.. but I can sometimes get it into 4th and then 1st again after that.. any time I let the clutch out all the way in N I can’t get into 1st … side note when the cars not running I can go through all the gears .. clutch in and out doesn’t affect it.. only while running. Thanks for reading this ..

[@eman_vq8036]

What if your clutch fluid is clear ? But you still have a sticky clutch pedal? Do I just swap out the slave cylinder ?

[@flipinfin]

Even when the pressure is built up do u still depress the clutch to the floor?

[@eiji81]

Can you post a link or tell us where you bought the slave cylinder for $38? I have an 05 G35 and I've had the sticky clutch pedal mostly on hot days. I think it's time to change it. Thanks for the video! It's very helpful

[@MotordyneG35]

The parts store, it comes with a life time warranty. If it fails, they replace it for free. www.oreillyauto.com/

[@Linkskyfyre]

eiji81 me too but on my z... only on hot days...strange

[@willk3807]

So my hose cracked and the pedal went to the floor without returning. I replaced the slave cylinder because it was the original factory cylinder with 91,000 miles. I also of course replaced the hose. I did what you said for over an hour. The pedal never returned once. The best it did was barely build any pressure at the bottom two inches. Any suggestions would get you another subscriber

[@MotordyneG35]

If you kept pumping it and it wouldn’t return, either a lot of air entered the system from a cracked hose and you need to pump the pedal until it gets some sort of pressure.

[@MotordyneG35]

Or your master cylinder went bad. Video here on how to replace your master that controls the slave. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jKXCf4uKeJapqNE

[@willk3807]

I was so worried my master had gone bad. I was opening the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder too far. Which was causing the system to bleed off all its pressure. I eventually realized this and it began to build up a noticeable amount of pressure. Once I recognized my mistake with the bleeder valve. I was able to build up enough pressure to get the pedal to return to the top. Now it has that new pedal feel. I kept pumping the pedal after it was returning to the top and cracking open the valve with pedal to the floor. Then repeated that several times. I haven't tried starting my Z and seeing if it grinds shifting into 1st or reverse yet. It's storming today and I don't drive my Z in the rain. My air filter is behind the front bumper. So I don't wanna hydro lock my engine. I'm sure the clutch will be okay. Thanks for your help....hitting the subscribe button now

[@willk3807]

@MotordyneG35....So I came home tonight from work at 2am. Not expecting when I pushed the clutch pedal to the floor. It felt like there wasn't anything there. It went down with little effort and returned to top about 3/4 the way. It doesn't have any leaks so I'm assuming it's air. But it baffles me why 24hrs ago it was ready to drive and now it's not. Any suggestions???

[@brandondelcid4055]

I just replace aclutch on a 350z with a z1 clutch and a z1 flywheel but it won't lot me in gage a gear the cluch pedal comes back half way

[@davisthuy]

Hey did you buy the RJM clutch pedal? What are your thoughts? I bought one today. All I hear are good things but not sure if it'll be worth it.

[@MotordyneG35]

OEM high engagement point makes shifting fast and easy, you barely have to touch the pedal for the throw-out bearing to be pressed against the pressure plate allowing the clutch disc to float as you change gears. If you want to have the engagement point somewhere down on the floor, which takes longer to get too, sure then get it. It does not add horsepower and I have no issues, shifting through gears with my clutch pedal after 12 years. Why change? If I thought it was worth it, I would have it.

[@davisthuy]

Motordyne G35 oh I thought you bought one. I saw your comment on a RJM video and assumed. Wanted to know your thoughts on it that's all.

[@MotordyneG35]

No worries. I went back and deleted that comment you are talking about. I was trying to get answer out of that guy on his channel by telling him what he wanted to hear first, before then asking my question in which he was unable to answer. If I told him I thought the RJM pedal was a waste of money, that is all that he would have heard and not answer my question. I'm not into how things feel, I'm into performance parts modifications. Touchy feeling stuff is a waste of money. Actually, after looking at his channel and seeing all of the views he gets. I realized, I know more, can make better content and bought a camera to start my own channel. If you really want to know......

[@armandomejia1747]

Hey I did this yesterday but for some reason ever since I first disconnected the slave cylinder the pedal gets stuck to the ground and doesn’t come up on it’s on I bleeder the whole system both master and slave cylinders but still gets stuck to the ground completely and it would not do that before changing it any ideas???

[@naru177]

Awesome video! unfortunately my 06 350z does not build clutch pressure like yours-pedal comes up only half way. I have replaced the master, slave cylinder and clutch line to a braided stainless steel line. the clevis on master cylinder is set to stock distance per FSM. I have tried everything to bleeding the darn thing-pressure, vacuum, reverse bleed. when you bled your G, did you have only the front of the car on Jacks or all four? reason I ask is I wonder if having only the frontend up helps air bleed out of the master cylinder... really out of ideas.

[@MotordyneG35]

I had the car on jack stands, just the front end. Unless you are bleeding it wrong, it should come all the way up. Try looking at Aaron's video, he had the same issue as you and this worked for him.............kzbin.info/www/bejne/iYGxoZx9edWMnJI If that video works for you, make sure to tell him I sent you his way.

[@naru177]

thanks for the tip! I think having only the front end on Jacks helped a little bit. how many cycles of pumping/opening bleeder screw did you think you did to get all the air out? I've done maybe 15 cycles but I still see little bubbles coming out. and peddle only comes up about half way. I guess I will keep on bleeding.

[@johnvo7331]

naru177, if you use aftermarket part, you need to adjust your clutch pedal.

[@Turtlefarm]

I installed slave and master.. bled it 30 Different ways.. 30 different times I can’t seem to shift into 1st or R when the cars running … but the car rolls with clutch in?

[@audioamateur]

Is it necessary to replace the clutch master cylinder? Thanks

[@Tieknee]

Nice video. Hopefully it will work on an 05 Altima SE

[@linares194]

Hey Motordyne was wondering what’s the best brake fluid for the clutch! It’s my daily btw. And how much do I have to buy so I bleed it and be good with it

[@robertm5969]

In the video, he recommends Nissan GTR R35 Special Brake Fluid (DOT 4). I think any DOT4 would be fine though.

[@thedoghandler1]

The 350Z HR has the interal (CSC) slave cylinder BITCH OF A JOB and expensive

[@romnickcanono]

I just replaced the slave and when I was trying to bleed it I notice that pressure wasn't building up then I someone press the clutch for me and notice that nothing was moving and it wasn't moving the clutch fork and notice when I put new brake fluid that it wouldn't really move even though I made sure my lines were drain and my reservoir would just fill up fast and I'm not sure what's happening or what to do

[@calirich4999]

I see that yours says dot3 went you went to nissan did they say it was ok to use dot4 on your g35?

[@markd6637]

Deff replaced my slave bleed and when it gets hot still sticks at the top wut do I do now

[@typicaldavid389]

What do I do if I changed the clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder and it still won’t enter any gears

[@brandonbarraza7321]

whats up! i have an 08 nissan 350z, i just got a performance clutch (stage 3) but my throwout bearing slave gave out. what slave should i go with ??

[@cppctek]

How did you get it for 38. O’Reilly’s is double

[@alex74857]

What happens with you don't bleed all the air out ??

[@matthewsetzer5251]

I changed mine and the master and still no pressure. Maybe I should bleed it. IDK at this point

[@itscrucial]

Awesome vid, .I have the same exact car, same year too 6MT without the rear active steering. If don't ind I like to explain what happened to me today. I had my clutch replaced at about 100k miles I am exactly just over 160k miles as of today. Just yesterday I noticed when I press my clutch in starts making a weird sound every time I pressed in. Now this morning it's now more like a whiny sound. I drove down to our local grocery store and noticed when I was depressing the clutch it was going to gear much quicker and I had to gas it a bit. It started to smell like burnt clutch/brakes. I made it home but same thing and when I got to my driveway the car stalled. I noticed it happened when I released the clutch it was going to gear much soon, again smelled like burnt clutch/flywheel? Could this be the Clutch Slave Cylinder? I know it's hard to say it is but any feed back would be greatly appreciated.

[@MotordyneG35]

80k-100k is about the life expectancy of the clutch. Sorry for the late response, I never got a notification from youtube. It is your throw out bearing going out. I actually installed my own clutch. Because of my Motordyne Shockwave exhaust, I crack the throttle pretty often. What I learned, is do not crack it with the clutch pedal depressed all the time. Why? My clutch was on 80,000 miles when I made my throwout bearing explode. When it exploded, every time I pushed in my clutch pedal the car would stall and you would smell burnt clutch. Never in my life have I had a car stall from pushing in the clutch. This sounds like your issue. You have to the drop the whole tranny to replace the throwout bearing which is a like a $40 part. It has a bunch of balls in it that spin in a circle, what happens is 1 or 2 balls will seize making it fail.

[@itscrucial]

Thanks MotorDyne, it was definitely my throwout bearing. I unfortunately don't trust my self to take down my tranny to get to the clutch/throwout bearing. So I winded up paying my local mechanic $350 to put an entire new clutch. After he removed it I had about 15% left. I am at 157k miles so replacement for a new clutch was coming up. I had an Exedy Stage 1 clutch but now I have decided to go back to the Exedy NSK1000 OEM Replacment with a matching Luk DMF067 Flywheel. I was a little over the hard clutch feel from stage one. It feels great to have gone back to the original softer feel since it is my daily driver. Thanks for you feedback. From your videos I can clearly see we have some the same common issues. I'll send you details later. Thanks again.

[@MotordyneG35]

itscrucial .....I have the same setup except my clutch is Exedy stage 1. The dual mass flywheel has springs in it to absorb the vibration when changing gears. The dual mass is better for the gearbox than a single mass flywheel and your car will not sound like cement truck in neutral.

[@MotordyneG35]

itscrucial .....another note. My Motordyne Shockwave ))) exhaust is what made my throw out bearing explode. A lot of cars rev at me when they hear my exhaust. So I will push in the clutch and bounce it off the Rev limiter. What I learned is if you want that throw out bearing to last, do not be reving at people with the clutch depressed. Just put it in neatural and do not press the clutch when you blimp the throttle.

[@dannyboii5296]

I did my shave and the clutch line going to it is leaking now why might that be? Is it the washers?

[@Trippynate]

Where’d you get the bleeder thing from?

[@wastingtime]

good video! my slave cylinder has 150k km on it haha, Do you know if the Rev-up slave cylinder is the same as the normal VQ? Also you made it look so simple, When I did a clutch change I found it almost impossible to build pressure back to the point I had to take the master out and bench bleed it...I think it may have something to do with AUS 350z having the master on opposite sides and having a much longer clutch line.

[@MotordyneG35]

Yes, the rev-up has the same slave cylinder as the normal VQ. That is pretty badass, I have someone from Australia checking out my videos and I did not know they put the slave on the opposite side. That would make a much longer clutch line, that sucks man. I've never had to touch my master cylinder, yet. Well please click subscribe. I just started uploading content 3 months ago. I"m in Arizona, in the USA. I'm sure, there will be more videos I upload that can help you with your 350z.

[@wastingtime]

Thanks for the reply! yeah AU Z/G community is small so we have to make use of Americans to give us advice haha. Well the slave is on the same side but the master is on the opposite side so the lines are like twice as long, Im still scared to change lines because I fear I might have to take the master out again to bench bleed (nightmare) Yeah I'll follow for sure, good to get some advice from another rev-up owner!

[@KennethStockerDrums]

Tyler! What was the reasoning behind your choice of GTR brake fluid for use as transmission fluid? I went out and bought 4 quarts because I know you're meticulous about your car, but Stephen Ortiz, my mechanic here in Dallas (says he knew you when you lived here) was extremely hesitant. Couldn't find anything about it online either.

[@MotordyneG35]

I know who Stephen Ortiz is when I used to live in Dallas, he was my painter. He is an expert on the G. Why would I use GTR brake fluid in my transmission? I never said that at all. I use it for my clutch slave cylinder fluid which is separate from the transmission fluid. Listen to whatever Stephen says and I know he is shaking his head knowing I would never saying something like that. I use Amsoil in my transmission. The reasoning behind not using OEM Dot 3 brake fluid for the slave cylinder and going to DOT 4 GTR fluid is from the technical service bulletin from INFINITI........www.infinitig37.com/TSB/ITB13-005a.pdf

[@MotordyneG35]

Tell Stephen I said hello. Here is what I use in my transmission. Is yours a 6 speed? Amsoil Manual Transmission & Transaxle Gear Lube 75W-90 www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/manual/manual-transmission-and-transaxle-gear-lube-75w-90/?code=MTGQT-EA&Email&OrderConfirm&ProdSummary

[@KennethStockerDrums]

Motordyne G35 So I, who is still in the learning process, didn't even realize there's a separate reservoir for the clutch fluid. I can say I learned something today. I've got an 06 revup Coupe and I want to take care of her like you do yours. Picked her up the day before thanksgiving last year and I've had many ups and downs.. Told him you said hi! Thanks for making videos and thanks for inspiring me to be super picky about what goes into my car.

[@KennethStockerDrums]

I will more than likely be picking up some of that amsoil transmission fluid after doing my own research as well. And by the way, he did shake his head at me when I told him about using brake fluid as transmission fluid..

[@MotordyneG35]

No worries and you got lucky finding 1 of the best underground mechanics/painters for the G35. Stephen is an expert when it comes to the G35, I learned from him. Very nice G and with a rev-up you have a 6MT just like me. You for sure need an oil catch can and Stephen can help you with this too. Here is my video on the oil catch can and with a rev-up model you for sure need a vented oil catch can. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hqLZo6OZntqnma8

[@juancotto6773]

I replace the sleeve cylinder but my clutch pedal if i pressed down stay down. I try bleeding de the line pushing and pulling the pedal by hand but nothing happens

[@l_ugz]

Motordyne G35 thank you so much for the video. I thought that this was the same problem I was facing with my 2005 G35. my problem however is that the fork that pushes up again the slave cylinder does not extend all the way, it sort of stops half - 3/4 of the way when the pedal is fully depressed touching the floor. This causes another problem which is that the clutch pedal doesn't even reach the safety switch so I have to reach down and press it with my hand to start the car. what could possibly be wrong? thanks.

[@MotordyneG35]

Tyler Adagala...did you replace the slave cylinder?

[@l_ugz]

Motordyne G35 yes I just finished replacing it. bled it twice and no air bubbles left. took it for a drive and the clutch point is extremely low. changing gears is also difficult especially first I have to shimmy the shifter around and then 4th I have to wait 2-3 seconds before it locks in gear

[@MotordyneG35]

Tyler Adagala ...does the clutch pedal feel firm? Was the engagement point high on the clutch before? Did everything work fine before replacing the slave?

[@MotordyneG35]

Sounds like you need to keep bleeding it.....

[@l_ugz]

Motordyne G35 clutch pedal feels fine but the engagement point is nearly at the bottom opposed to the normal high catch point. the main thing is that I don't think the clutch is fully disengaging. which also causes the problem of the clutch not hitting the safety switch allowing for me to start the car. before this happened there would occasionally be some creaking and popping sounds that would occurre when I would release the clutch as well. master cylinder? clutch pedal assemby possibly?

[@johnvo7331]

I am having the same issues on my 350z. I change both the master clutch cylinder and slave cylinder. I still have the same issue after a few thousand miles. I am planning to change it to a Wilwood kit if I get the chance. Are you still on your original master clutch cylinder? Do you use dot 4 or dot 3 brake fluid?

[@MotordyneG35]

I use GTR brake fluid, which is DOT 4. What issue are you having? Are you talking about the fluid keeps turning blackish after 6 months? Yes, I'm still on the original master clutch cylinder, I have yet to change it.

[@johnvo7331]

Motordyne G35, Clutch comes back nice and firm when I initially bled the system, but a month later it a little bit sunken. Its very annoying, it takes several pump in the morning to get it to firm up again. I have also installed a stainless steel clutch line to the slave cylinder(no help at all). I am currently using Valvoline dot 4 brake fluid. Maybe it's the fluid I am using.

[@MotordyneG35]

Hmmmm......if you have to pump the pedal to get pressure again, you have a leak somewhere. My pedal never loses pressure and stays very firm. Maybe you got a faulty part new. Did you buy OEM or did you buy with a lifetime warranty from Oriley's? If it is from Oriley's, go take it back and they replace it for free.

[@johnvo7331]

Motordyne G35, unfortunately, I did not. Master clutch cylinder is from Centric. Slave cylinders was from Dorman. Maybe two of the line weak point is the line that run between the fender or that rubber hose that run from the reservoir to the master clutch cylinder. Maybe heat soak(slave cylinder attached to the bell housing)?

[@tinynuke5204]

what if it doesn’t build pressure

[@sinul4542]

I changed my slave and my clutch is very easy to put in and it won’t come back up. After I replaced it when bleeding it it just won’t bleed I did everything the same way I’m tripping rn

[@jimbo7042]

How u did it

[@enriquemo7226]

when you're bleeding the clutch do you have the cap on the reservoir? or does it matter?

[@MotordyneG35]

Enrique Mo .....you should have it off because if you are just bleeding and not changing out the slave, as you drain the fluid you can NOT let the reservoir run out of fluid or AIR WILL ENTER THE SYSTEM. So as you bleed the system you always have to keep fluid in the reservoir.

[@lowm3]

Will it fix sticky clutch? My clutch gets stuck half way when it's super hot put or a 30 mins drive. Colder weather tend to be better

[@MotordyneG35]

FunnyVids ....Yes.

[@lowm3]

Ok i will try it :/ i tried bleeding it but didnt work

[@MotordyneG35]

You need to replace the slave. The slave is $38 from Oriley's. Bleeding it won't help, if you did not replace the slave cylinder.

[@josesalgado9923]

Did you have the brake fluid cap on when you did the bleeding ?

[@hunterrhynes4795]

jose salgado don’t have too, kind of a pain to when you have to keep adding fluid.

[@stylewithaltitude]

That's car porn to see the slave cylinder move lol. Btw, my Z is super hard to get into gear and even grinds when I have to force into gear. Especially reverse or 1st... I replaced the clutch master will this fix the issue? It gets easier to get into gear when the car is warm...

[@MotordyneG35]

Yes a new slave will definitely help, no need for master. Did you change the transmission fluid?kzbin.info/www/bejne/hGbCiX6si9t_mdk

[@stylewithaltitude]

@@MotordyneG35 Thanks for the reply bro! I changed the trans fluid about 4 years ago and maybe put 4k miles on it! Your thoughts on what it can be?

[@stylewithaltitude]

@@MotordyneG35 I also got a new flywheel and clutch kit recently... the problem started about 2 weeks after... super hard to get Into gear! The problem gets better after the car is super warm..? Your thoughts?

[@stylewithaltitude]

@@MotordyneG35 Did my mechanic RIP me off buying a master? Lol

[@MotordyneG35]

@@stylewithaltitude …what year z? The late model 05 and up have the CD009 transmission which has stronger synchros. It means your synchros are going out, so just double clutch it or shift more slowly so the synchros can align the gear.

[@kentcuzco8159]

Hey bro , question how would I know if my 2006 g35 coupe is base or sport ? I’m new to g35 to be honest

[@MotordyneG35]

Do you have orange stitching on the steering wheel? All 6 speed manuals were sport edition. Some automatics are. You would have the bigger 19"rims instead of the 18"

[@slowgoat6089]

Can you tell me why sometimes its hard for me to put my shifter into gear, especially when i drive the hell out of it. Ill be driving my car normally than when i stop at a red light or stop sign i try to put my car in first gear and its like it wont go in that gear or any gear... i have to use all my might to force my shifter into gear...and btw i have a new transmission and clutch. - Is my master or slave cylinder bad?

[@TRU2Sk9ng1992]

Clit Commander could be the synchros

[@ronnycerritos7811]

When I pump, my fork does not move

[@dumpsterjedi9323]

Same. Did you ever figure out what to do?

[@ronnycerritos7811]

DumpsterJedi throw out sleeve was bad you need to replace it & if you do that might as well Change the throw out sleeve because mine messed up

[@dumpsterjedi9323]

@@ronnycerritos7811 what do you mean throw out sleeve? Throw out bearing?

[@ronnycerritos7811]

DumpsterJedi search it up they're very important

[@ronnycerritos7811]

DumpsterJedi but they aren't super expensive

[@gruntythegreat3335]

Does anybody know the exact torque spec on the slave cylinder banjo bolt ???? I can't seem to find it anywhere and I have already ripped the threads out of 3 poor quality autozone slave cylinders

[@henrynguyen2683]

my clutch only sticks when i'm doing donuts or extended high rev moment should i be changing my slave or just fluid change?

[@MotordyneG35]

Mine used to do exactly just that, only on hard driving when I first discovered a bad slave. You need to change the slave at that point.

[@papi_zz3490]

Can this work if the line is completely dry? Having trouble getting fluid down the hose

[@randy2.0kitt]

put ur lips on top and blow