Sears Saw Renovation Part 2 Disassembly (Part 2 of 2)

In this video, Jerry Cole continues the disassembly of an old Sears saw that is seized. Using techniques that involve simple tools (and at times "brute force") the saw is completely disassembled and is in preparation for "de-rusting" using electrolysis. (Electrolysis techniques will be shown in Part 3 of this series).

[@JuanCar-pintero]

Your video helped me a lot, I have a machine like it, I had to replace some parts and I didn't know how to do it, but your video helped me

[@doncrawley2728]

Wow! Just found your great (and brave) dissection of the heart of the monster. Right on with the WD 40. They invented it for a reason(not even related to its uses today)!! It could be helpful also to use a strip of fine (220 grit or so) sandpaper and lightly see-saw the sandpaper with each hand around the shaft til surface rust is removed. Wipe down shaft & then proceed to oil her up. Letting stuck bearings sit overnight drenched in wd40 then add machine oil if available and commence apulin’. I am a retired remodeler/pharmacist and I just burned up the motor on my pawnshop ryobi . I was inspired to pull out my first ever table saw bought at the local Sears 40+ years ago and begin restoration. Thanks for the “ inspiration “ for what I might be getting into.

[@ronaldnickell6110]

First off you should always polish the shaft to remove the rust before trying to remove a close fitting bearing. I have a sears from the 50's that has one wheel that raises and lowers the arbor, and it controls the tilt. You push in ,or pull out for one feature or the other. I saw this saw first when I was in grade school at Sears in Lubbock Texas, and was fascinated withit. about ten years ago I was given one that had been sitting out in a pasture in the weather for a great number of years. The linkage was frozen with rust and half eaten through, but with patience and a lot of penetrating oil I managed to free everything up. I use it all the time now but there is no fence. I will make one in the near future, as I am now retired and have the time. The stand is rusted and a piece of junk, but I love the saw.

[@joncostales]

At my age, I wouldn't survive long enough to de-rust with a wire brush. LMAO. I have this saw and watching you tear it apart has been very helpful. Thanks for posting this.

[@Godzilla2k69]

Jerry, Excellent camera work. Very good explanation as you go along. A really good set of restoration videos. Joe

[@Synonomous]

First time hearing you sing and it's in English! Such a lovely voice to accompany your brilliant guitar playing. Thank you!

[@sherryannknowles5423]

Thanks for what you do. I have to change my arbor in about a week and I'm not looking forward to it but you have made me feel a little better about doing it! Thanks so much!

[@spitrock33]

Thanks for the good video,, never knew to much about the tablesaw works. thank you, great job

[@84toyota4wd]

Man i was happy to see that bearing come off the arbor, as well as the arbor come out all together. I've got an older model in the garage that really just needs a polish and a motor. its an 8 inch model with crome and vintage green... But I really need something for the shop a bit newer, about the moodel your working on or the one after it... But anyhow, enjoyed the videos so far!!!

[@glenpaul3606]

First thing to do with rusted parts is spray them well with Liquid wrench. That usually loosens rusted parts.

[@SgtCude59]

Hi jerry . People watching this be sure to take some fine sandpaper and clean the rust off the shaft then it would pass through the bearings

[@rosshollinger8097]

Although hard to tell for sure, but it appears the reason the arbor snap ring was out of position is that it was installed backwards. Snap rings (and C-clips) are punched out of larger stock and then hardened. The punched side is rounded over and the other side is not. The rounded-over side should go toward the bearings (in this case) rather than away from the bearings. This keeps more ring surface against the slot surface, which reduces the chances of the snap ring doing just what it did.

[@aco319sig3]

So, yeah. Tried to do the exact same thing you were doing to get the elevation screw out, and the entire elevation gear, the CAST IRON piece, snapped in half...

[@rayc.1396]

The arbor bearings are part # 3509 good luck finding them. The alternate bearing is 6202 RS 5/8 this number can be cross referenced by any bearing supply if they don't show the 6202 RS 5/8. The dimension is 35mm diameter, 11mm thickness with a 5/8" bore.

[@manuelmendoza3383]

Gracias por la información de los rodamientos, estoy restaurando una similar.

[@manuelmendoza3383]

Ya encontré los rodamientos, y así es efectivamente, es 6202 con diámetro interior de 5/8, muy valiosa tu información, gracias.

[@jodydoakes8754]

Why would you try to drive a rusty arbor shaft through the bearing, and with no lube!!?

[@MattCBateson]

Thank you Jerry! Appreciate the thorough descriptions and walk through. I have a similar saw I’m trying to save. One question, before you used the gear puller, how did you position and support the saw to help pound it apart and create the 1/8 inch gap for the puller?

[@pawpawstew]

Just a thought here, but if you're going to teach and mentor up and coming woodworkers, maybe banging away at a woodruff key with a dull, rusty wood chisel isn't the best way to start... of course if the object is how not to treat a wood chisel and/or how to restore it if it has been abused, then you've got a good start. All the best. Keep posting content.

[@claytonlemieux4090]

I bought my saw newo 06/28 1988 it was a manager special daynot advertised it came to $288.91 it was $100 off i had it ever sent mad lot of nice furniture and cabinets., would not change it for a cabinets saw had it for all these years now a part of me still have the blade gard and spiltter,and pastic belt gard

[@LarryCook1960]

My saw, which seems to be the same as this one, had a C clip on the arbor near the pulley. You need to remove that clip which is up against the bearing, if it exists, before pounding on the shaft of the arbor at 4:16.

[@mathewschwarz358]

Is there a video on assembly of new arbor bearings?

[@jamesritchie8540]

could you apply a little heat to the castings to help remove them?

[@keithlucas6260]

Propane only as acetylene is too hot.

[@glenpaul3606]

I discovered a problem yesterday with my 113.298030 Craftsman table saw when I tried to tilt the blade to cut a 45 degree. Beyond 10 degrees it got increasingly hard to turn the wheel. I did everything I could to get it freed up to no avail....could only get to 20 degrees. Brushed the screw rod, lubed it everywhere I could. Don't know why it's so hard to turn...do you have any ideas short of dismantling the saw???

[@johnmcknight4776]

Would it be okay to sandblast the rest off.

[@johnmcknight4776]

Or would that be not as good

[@richardguggemos6336]

Too bad you haven't done more videos

[@mtabernig]

if you clean the rust of the shaft and squirt some WD40 the bearing would come much more EZ

[@neilanfuneralhome3737]

I just did this with my 1963 Craftsman saw. Mine came apart MUCH easier! My arbor was suspect, so I ordered a brand new one with bearing from Sears. Still available! If you need one, here's the link ($125). www.searspartsdirect.com/craftsman-saw-parts/6532/0009/113/model-113298032/0247/0744600.html

[@user-pk2fg8im4u]

I only made it to 6 minutes, 20 seconds with some emery paper would have the shaft our, and on to the next task. I am going to assume you got it apart from the title.

[@mrgcav]

These were dangerous saws. The 113.xxxxx saws were made by Emerson Co. and the 315.xxxxx series were made by Ryobi. I have a whole restoration document on how to restore and improve sears contractor saws 113.xxxxx series. It makes then safer, more accurate and run better. It is free on my google drive for download. A proper restoration will cost $600.00 to $1250.00 in 2024 depending on the starting condition of the saw and assuming you do not need a motor. Just reply for a copy.

[@glenpaul3606]

SPRAY SPRAY SPRAY... this is painful to watch. Glad you aren't working on my stuff....can't watch any more...

[@stevebell4906]

Jerry is No Mechanic!...This is painful to watch!

[@WACKO1123]

You broke so many common sense rules I had to stop watching. Damn it man, remove the rust before you beat things apart!!!!