Installing a whole-house surge protector

In this video we install a GE THQLSURGE, whole-house surge protector. This product is listed for the GE Powermark Gold series panels that take standard width breakers. Other manufacturers offer similar products for their own panels.
Please consult a licensed electrician if you do not feel comfortable doing this - I take no responsibility for any damage or injury!

[@billcowhig5739]

The white current discharge wire should be short and have no kinks or coils in it because of the inductive reactance it creates during the surge event, which opposes the change in current flow, which is opposite to how you want the surge protector to function. That coil of white wire makes a terrific inductor when a burst of current passes through.

[@ChadAmI80]

Thanks for the video. Such a quick and simple install. I have been thinking about picking one of these up for my GE load center.

[@tomtommyl805]

The guy in the video didn't cut the white wire to the neutral as short as possible. You need to do that.

[@tomtommyl805]

Cut the drain wire to the neutral to a short length please. You don't want a long path for the surge power to go through. and yes it makes a tiny bit of difference. There is inductance and resistance and that will take time for the power to leave. Time that you do not have.

[@JohnnyUtah9173]

Does it have to be installed at the top?

[@dangrimes340]

Does it matter what position this surge protector goes into your panel? I have available slots at the bottom of my panel and I don't know if I need to swap out top position breaker with this surge protector and move the other breaker switch to the bottom.

[@JoesGarageProductionsLLC]

In an ideal world you want it closest to where the incoming power cables hook up to the bus bars. In reality though I'm not sure how much of a difference it really makes.

[@tarranramcharitar3798]

Will this work to protect against transient voltages? Or only surges ?

[@eddieb.1300]

Surge is a transient.

[@Weak_juan]

Does this do anything in terms of providing protection against lightning strikes?

[@tomtommyl805]

That is exactly what it is for. And maybe a couple other things but lightning is the biggest concern. It will not COMPLETELY protect your sensitive electronic equipment but it will stop a bolt of lightning from entering your power system in the house and blowing your TV across the room. (that's a rare occurance but lightning has been known to do some WILD things. as it is unpredictable.)

[@gldf111]

Hi. I have a 200 amp main panel and another 200 amp sub panel next to it. Do I need 2 surge protectors or just 1 in the main panel.

[@JoesGarageProductionsLLC]

Just put 1 in the main panel.

[@qazisnotapeopleperson7167]

Actually, having 1 surge protector per panel is good. Redundancy, especially with surge protection, is a good thing, especially when protecting sensitive electronics.

[@kurpal8904]

How much does it usually cost?

[@difelicea]

I don’t have slots available in my main panel, can I install the surge protector in the sub-panel? Great video thanks.

[@JoesGarageProductionsLLC]

There are products available that bount and a panel knockout on the side top or bottom. I believe intermatic makes them as well as others. In theory all you would need to do then is wiring up the wires coming off of that device to an existing breaker. Please do not put two wires under a breaker screw unless the breaker is listed for that. Not many are.

[@difelicea]

Joe's Garage thanks for replying. My main panel is inside and I also have the Sense monitor sitting on the bottom, it’s pretty busy. I ordered already this surge thinking that it should work fine on the sub panel but maybe that’s not true, I don’t know. Thanks again!

[@JoesGarageProductionsLLC]

@@difelicea I don't see why it would not work on a sub panel it probably just won't provide the same level of protection as if you were to install it in the main panel. just make sure you only install it in a GE power marked gold series panel that takes THQL breakers, not the thinner THQP

[@difelicea]

Joe's Garage , yes it’s a THQL panel, thank you so much for the help!

[@tomtommyl805]

You need to install this BEFORE the other circuits for the house. as close to the main breaker as possible and yet be installed properly. Time is of the essences with lightning surges and You need to get that surge diverted asap.

[@asuarezjd]

Good video BUT for the fact that the neutral was coiled, looped, which is a cardinal sin. All instructions speak against it. These wires have a purpose different than your normal circuits and the sharp bends and loops cause impedance and deters effectiveness. An example is that when they have leads, both hots need to be twisted, braided, until they are connected. And, the neutral is to be SHORT as possible, but if not possible, then the one MUST is that it cannot be looped, coiled, and the bends cannot be sharp. We old timers trained learning that the bottom of a soda can is the ideal curve. The way the old one was connected was the proper way. Please don't get upset, is just that every nanosecond counts when voltage tsunamis hit your home.

[@JoesGarageProductionsLLC]

Thanks for the tip! I actually installed the old one as well and honestly didn't give it much thought. Next time I'm in there I'll fix it! Got to love KZbin 🙂

[@asuarezjd]

@@JoesGarageProductionsLLC I tried to upload pictures but I was not able to and I rechecked on the instructions and it does mention it. The video is very good and I'm glad you made it because you saved a lot of money and you're helping others save money as well. Installing one is much better than not installing any at all and the fact that it's directly inserted into the bus bar without any leads makes them really good protectors. I have the same but for the plug-in neutral. Whenever you have a chance see if you can also protect the air conditioner unit outside, the condenser. Not all surges come through the utility, 10 years ago there was a nasty lightning that stroke and killed a big old tree at my neighbor's and his air conditioning condenser got fried it actually traveled through the ground apparently and killed the alarm system. He had a whole house surge protector and apparently it did its job but the unit was outside about 30 ft from that tree. So, looks like it didn't come through the power lines but the ground or the air or something...

[@rancesdelacruz2771]

Is the GE panel compatible with Siemens surge protector I bought one😅😅

[@JoesGarageProductionsLLC]

If it is a circuit breaker type surge protector, probably not. If it is a surge protector that attaches via a knock out, should be fine.

[@PC487]

You talk about hooking up the neutral wire to the ground bus at close as possible then don't clip the wire and leave a few inches of the neutral wire coiled. Isn't the entire point of connecting the neutral wire as close as possible shortening the path from the surge protector to ground? Leaving the neutral wire a few inches longer probably doesn't make a difference practically, but is contrary to the reasoning of hooking to neutral wire to the ground bus as close to the device as possible, isn't it?

[@JoesGarageProductionsLLC]

You are correct. It has been a while, but I believe I left it a little longer than required because it is a pretty stiff solid 10 AWG wire that is somewhat difficult to manage.

[@kurpal8904]

Is $240 for part and labor a fair cost from electrician?

[@tylerthompson5705]

That is a good price

[@williamhoodtn]

Why in the world didn't you just trip the main 200A breaker to work safely? "There are old electricians and bold electricians but NO old, bold electricians!"

[@JoesGarageProductionsLLC]

Please note that, in this case (and likely in many others' cases), there is no way to make this panel completely "dead" without pulling the meter. This is a main panel with feed-through lugs headed to a sub that I have in my attached garage. Tripping the main would only make the bus bars dead, but the conductors feeding this panel from the meter would still be very much alive. Tripping the main would make most of this panel dead, but having installed this panel and rewiring my entire house many years ago, I am fairly comfortable working in electrical panels - both hot and dead. That aside, if anyone is unfamiliar or otherwise uncomfortable working inside an electrical panel, I would recommend calling an electrician or having someone who IS comfortable with electrical work supervise.

[@R900DZ]

@@JoesGarageProductionsLLC switching off the main is cheap insurance in this case. Yes all it would kill is the bus bar but that’s what you need to be dead while you’re swapping breakers since that is what they are connecting to and could potentially arc against.

[@JoesGarageProductionsLLC]

Like I said, I am fairly comfortable working around electricity. The way I performed this job was a personal choice based on years of experience. I am not saying the way I did it is the only way, or the way everyone should do it. If killing the main breaker makes you feel more comfortable than by all means go for it. If anyone viewing this video is not comfortable doing what is shown in this video please call an electrician.

[@stanleykania7184]

Never take neutral wire off a breaker the is live !! You'll fire your stuff..