Installing and Blocking Deep Joists

[@saidmehdi7723]

I don’t know who are you but man you are doing the best thing ever sharing your experiences with us making things very easy for us to understand I really appreciate it from bottom of my heart

[@Buildsum]

Thanks Mate, I'm glad you like them

[@Clark-Mills]

Just did 3x applaud, have a coffee on me. Your videos have been great through the years. Don't see so many now but still appreciate looking back at them. Cheers... Clark (NZ)

[@Buildsum]

Hi Clark, thanks I will. Yeah the ideas and the time to do them is certainly in short supply at the moment however I am working on a couple so I hope I will have a few done by the end of the year.

[@janamana4]

Bravo buildsum thank you once again

[@Buildsum]

No problem 👍

[@nathanielwilkerson6217]

The detail in your model is impressive. Your floor layout has helped me consider various design issues that I will need to confront head on with the upcoming Medeek Floor extension for SketchUp.

[@Buildsum]

Thanks Nathaniel, I am continually amased at the differnet reasons and areas that people use my videos.

[@chrisvanweele6641]

X-bracing is done mostly to help spread the load to the joices on either side .

[@michaelmanara58]

Hey guys got a question. I ripped open my basement ceiling and noticed that the rafters are not level vertically and the old blocking system of the herring bone are all out and not doing anything. Should I put a new blocking sytem up to ensure my kitchen floor and living room floor stays stable? thank you

[@Buildsum]

Hi Micheal, yes, if the deep joists are leaning over then you should block them back up as much as you can. Solid blocking would be the best method of doing this.

[@michaelmanara58]

@@Buildsum do I do one row across or can I stagger as I go?

[@Buildsum]

Hi Micheal, you can stagger by the thickness of the blocking to make nailing easier.

[@Buildsum]

HI Jake Everything is drawn and animated using the free version of Google SketchUp.

[@carmenbeast7543]

How does the corners have to be and are all the same thanks

[@n0261]

Hi Buildsum my question is can you cut the floor joist by 30mm in the bathroom to make a walk in shower with tiles, im referring to single story house sitting on concrete stumps

[@Buildsum]

Hi Mate, the problem is that by cutting the joist down you are making them weaker and they may not span the required distance anymore.

[@n0261]

@@Buildsum Hi I think i need engineering rectification as AS1684 dose not have a solution, This is for disable family that need a wheelchair to be taken into the shower and then out.

[@Buildsum]

Hi Mate, you could see it there is a narrower product that you could use, even steel might be cost effective in this situation. The other option would be to install extra piers and bearers for the extra support.

[@n0261]

@@Buildsum Thank you, i will get an engineering rectification just to be safe.

[@lovingitandlife]

great info, hope this is the same in the UK,cant see why not,can you?.thanks mark.

[@Buildsum]

Hi Mark, for the manufactured timbers it should be as that is the manufacturers requirement however it could be slightly different for the natural timber deep joists, the spacing could be smaller or larger but the method should still be the same.

[@codyjohnston5382]

Great model - would you mind sharing the file so I can use it for educational purposes?

[@Buildsum]

Hi Cody, I'm happy for you to use the video however I don't have the model anymore due to hard drive crashes, sorry.

[@carmenbeast7543]

Omg dude thx so much for this video ur help solve it I been having it, it looks the same in my head and ugly drawings and was trying in my head to have the roof like this thx a lot. Questions I also wanna know about the corners how does it has to be?❤

[@johnhudson7977]

Hi Buildsum, I am placing some treated pine joists (240mmx 45mm MGP10) for an external decked walkway on a 2 storey house and had to resubmit a plan to the building inspector, as the draftsman designed it incorrectly, based on the way we wanted the decking to run. The building inspector just approved my solution and proposal, and said, "The deck joist proposal looks fine. I can check over at the Final Inspection to ensure joists are booted etc." What do you think she means by 'Joists booted'? The joists sit on steel beams, so they will not be hung, as I thought she may have meant joist hangers? Thanks again for all your help and videos.

[@Buildsum]

Hi John She may be looking to see how the joists are connected to the steel beam. Usually, there would be a timber plate connected to the beam with an Explosive Powered Tool and the joist then connected with Trip-l-grips. the other alternative would be to weld small tabs to the beam so you can screw the joist to them Hope this helps

[@johnhudson7977]

Thanks Buildsum. Yes, I have timber plates (treated pine 90mmx 45mm) bolted to the steel, so no problem connecting (skew nail & triple grip). Based on your feedback, I think she may think I'm hanging the beams, as they are 240mm and the connecting beams on the main deck are 190mm - but I have built up the front deck to raise decking so it's level with the door. Thanks for the quick response and information! John

[@francenginz]

Nice job, can i ask how long enough my timber be solid ,strenght is enough to carry 2nd story?can i use 45mmX190mm pine for 4m long span?

[@Buildsum]

Hi Mate, It all depends on the strength of the timber and the weigth of the building, tin or tile roof etc. However in this day in age there are other cheaper and easier products to use. I would look at the I joist option shown in the video.

[@teabagger1981]

Some good advice there. Thanks.

[@snipasharpshooter]

Where can I find rim boards in NSW? Can I use structural radiata pine instead of rim board?

[@Buildsum]

Hi Afi, the rimboard is nothing more than a structural ply sheet or similar material which is normally supplied with the joists if required.

[@usnva5638]

I'm going out on a limb here, but I believe cross bridging with lumber is not really used anymore., although some form of bridging is used.

[@babaksp4235]

Hi Buildsum, First of all thank you so much for uploading these fantastic videos on you tube website. I have got a question. As you have showed , you have considered I- beam for portion of that building, can I use LVL joists for that portion as well? Thanks a lot Babak,

[@Buildsum]

+Babak Sp Hi Babak Yes you can it would probably be dearer though.

[@babaksp4235]

Thank you

[@howardgilmour8464]

Thanks buddy, very interesting video. Well done too.

[@Buildsum]

Thanks Howard Glad you like it

[@stavrosvasiliou7365]

Great - thanks for sharing - very helpful

[@po30555]

What design software are you using?

[@asperse458]

I thought you do not need to use the whole row of blockings unless 1.you are using unseasoned timber and 2.span>3m and 3.no ceiling installed underneath the joists

[@Buildsum]

This is what AS1684.2 says 4.2.2.3 Deep joists Where the depth of floor joists is equal to or exceeds four times the breadth (deep joists), the joists shall be restrained at their supports with either- (a) a continuous trimming joist provided to the ends of joists above external bearers or wall plates; or (b) solid blocking or herringbone strutting between the outer pairs of joists and between intermediate pairs at not more than 1.8mm centres. Trimmers or solid blocking may be 25 mm less in depth than the joists, as shown in Figure 4.5, or other equivalent method for the purpose of ventilation. Trimmers or solid blocking shall be a minimum thickness of 25 mm. In addition, for deep joists in unseasoned timber where the span exceeds 3.0 m and there is no ceiling installed on the underside of joists, herringbone strutting or solid blocking shall be provided between all joists in evenly spaced rows not exceeding 1800 mm centres.

[@syetube1]

Legend Thanks....Keep the Vid's up.....

[@chrispychan4547]

Thanks man 👍

[@Buildsum]

No problem 👍