Installing DC Electric Vehicle Fast Charging - Fellten CCS fast charging kit

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▬ Contents of this video ▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
0:00 - Intro
3:31 - What is fast charging?
6:48 - What is in the fast charging kit?
7:58 - Where to put things?
9:38 - Wiring
13:24 - Battery box mounting help
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Tags: #70maidashcam,#70maiomni,Electric vehicle batteries,electric vehicle battery,electric car battery,ev battery,DC fast charging,dc fastcharging,ccs fast charging,ccs fastcharging,ev fast charging,electric vehicle fastcharging,ev fastcharging,electric vehicle fast charging,types of fast charging,how does fast charging work,how does dc fast charging work,fellten,fellten kit,fellten fast charging kit,fellten ccs,fellten ccs fast charging kit

[@ElectricSuperCar]

70mai Official website: bit.ly/3S1LLuz Code:15ESC 15% off No minimum purchase requirement All customers One use per customer Can’t combine with other discounts Amazon US: amzn.to/3vnx6SU

[@hans-fr5es]

404 not found

[@marvinfelix6358]

Hi I truly enjoy ur content I would enjoy seeing a "knight Rider " Electric SuperCar conversion, Don't think I have seen anyone doing that so far..

[@techiesky]

I suggest putting the charge port where the gas went in. Keeps it looking clean and protected.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Nice

[@Hrethgir]

My thought too. Why reinvent the wheel, the door and everything already exists for getting food into the car, you're just changing what it eats.

[@techiesky]

@@Hrethgir agreed. And it would be funny to see a gas car taking electricity in the same spot it used to for gas

[@IsWaNMaHAmaD]

Agreed

[@tracymason7393]

Do I still have time to submit a car for a conversion by a true pro...?​@@ElectricSuperCar

[@TravysArtyst]

I think the most logical place for the charge port is where the old gas port was. I personally don't like things in places where a small hit would disable it, so def not the bumper.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Got it!

[@rthomp03]

No, the most logical place is nearest to your most common charger location. EV chargers are almost never located where gas pumps are (along side of the car), so why would you put your charge port there? It forces you to have a longer cord, and have the charge plug oriented perpendicular to the cord going back to the charger at either end of the vehicle, which increases stress on the plug (due to the weight and stiffness of a large diameter high voltage cord) and likelihood of damage if someone bumps into it or trips over the cord.

[@ferrisr]

@@rthomp03 many vehicles have their chargeports on the side, and many chargers are also located along the side. At any rate, any level 3 charger I've ever seen has a cable long enough to reach there, even if it's not a pull-through charger (which I would expect we will start to see more of with EV trucks catching on, etc). I have a vehicle with a charge port on the side as well as one with the charge port in the grille, and actually had more of the issues you describe (cord too short, pulled tightly adding stress, etc) with the vehicle with the charge port in the grille. So I'd say it's a non-concern there. It's also a non-concern with level 2 since those tend to have cords that are plenty long enough to reach anywhere on the vehicle.

[@rthomp03]

For mounting the battery box, don't forget to design for the worst case loading in each direction. In even a relatively minor accident, you could see upwards of 30 g's of acceleration, so that 350 lb. battery box could exert over 10,000 lbs. of force. You certainly wouldn't want the box detaching from the vehicle in an accident. Obviously you can't design for every eventuality (high speed collisions can be hundreds of g's of acceleration), but do some basic FEA on your mounting structure to see what the failure load would be and sanity check your design. And don't forget to check the strength of your bolted connections too, as those might be the limiting factor when using existing mounting points.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Thanks for the suggestion!

[@rklauco]

The idea to use 3D printed stand-ins for the copper bars during the assembly testing is pure genius. Your project shows amazing skills you have. Can't wait for next video.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Thank you very much!

[@dearmash]

That 3d printed cover was very satisfying!

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Yes it was!

[@techbilldeaf]

I would just use the original gas port as the location for the charge port. This way it would be done with and we could move on to other area of the project agenda like batteries mounting points etc.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Got it!

[@FufsowyFufs]

That fuse is still too close to the box wall, you should probably add some extra insulation like a rubberized coating to make sure it doesnt spark

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Working on it!

[@lasersterling]

Gas cap for the charging port, definitely. You may want to consider square or rectangular tubing for mounting batteries (constrained obviously by the volume you have to work in). Gives you dimensional strength without a ton of weight. Also will help with shock loading, important for a car.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Thanks for the suggestion!

[@arial_01]

this IS a series I wish to see continued in the future! (Wrong channel for this comment I know, but I gotta say something for that youtube optimization yk)

[@ElectricSuperCar]

👍

[@ForwardGuidance]

Way over my head but I really enjoy watching this build and the last build.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Thanks for the comment!

[@mikejf4377]

Great video, very informative. I like the use of the bumper bracket being used for the two further back mounts for the three battery boxes, I also like the idea of bolt through the battery box and the smaller holes to ensure they wont move around at all. I liked the explanation of the wiring of the charging system. Keep up the great videos. I know I am way behind on all the videos.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Thanks! 👍

[@John-qc8yy]

Tesla's have their charge port on drivers rear fender and the charge cables are very short. If you hope to use the Tesla network at some point you should locate your charge port with this in mind. Driver's rear or passenger front as close to the back or front as possible.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Thanks for the comment!

[@AdamDavisEE]

The majority of charging stations are stalls with charging cables coming from the end, not pull-through stalls like gas stations. If you plan on backing into the stall all the time then the gas fill might work ok, but I think that the most convenient point will always be the end of the car. Center means you'll have fewer issues with obnoxiously short charging station cables, but a corner can work ok in most charging stations. If this is your regular car then backing in might be your preference, and the back would make sense given your battery location, but if you have family that might drive it frequently then front might be more comfortable for them and possibly result in fewer issues requiring bodywork repair. ;)

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Thanks for the comment!

[@Asvybre]

It's great to see someone do quality in depth content about how all these ev systems work. Keep it up, we're learning!

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Much appreciated!

[@RealRickCox]

So glad to see you're getting brand deals to help you make ends meet while you do this awesome build!!

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Thanks!

[@recieved]

Love these series! Keep up the incredible work! We'll be here for all the new projects to come ❤

[@user-pf1jq9pb6t]

Hi man, love your videos. It would be nice if you could upload in at least 1440p, make such difference when watching.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Noted!

[@WinstonsGarage]

You're a genius bro. Idk how you do it lol. I would be so scared to attempt something like this! Love the vids!

[@ElectricSuperCar]

I appreciate that!

[@scottpilcher473]

I would be tip-toeing around easy access to things like OEM ( KW?) suspension installation and camber adjustment. And of course, possible quick swap-over / replacement of batteries .Also . scanning roolz ! But you're a CADmeister and I reckon those scans squeal dimensions like a fed on truth syrum . Scans aren't drawings, especially with Autodesk . You are a Legend ! 🙏 so I amma shuddup and marvel .

[@jroloc]

Some high performance vehicles use the engine and transmission as a stressed member to increase rigidity and save weight. Meaning they engine block and transmission case are part of the structure of the car. I believe that this the reason the lower rear suspension bracket has such beefy mounting bolts. I suggest you engineer the battery retention brackets/frame to triangluate and reinforce the suspension.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Good point!

[@caspervanderlaag6488]

Thanks for the great content! as far as mounting the battery boxes I'm a bit concerned about the crash structure in the back (as others also have mentioned) usually the rear beams have some sort of crumple zone and if I look at your 3d drawings it seems that in a rear end collision the battery boxes will be shoved into the back of your seat. Especially when you make them part of the battery box structure. But maybe I'm wrong and the structure is further back in the bumper. Anyway keep up the good work, and stay safe 🙂

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Thanks for the comment! I think it will be ok as the batteries are in the same location as the engine was

[@swecreations]

5:54 do note that for example Teslas charge at up to 625 Amps, would say that 300 Amps is at the low end of a lot of cars.

[@suryavanshib]

Awesome ✌🏻✌🏻✌🏻 This is getting interesting🤩🤩🤩 You are almost 50% done 😍😍😍 Keep it up 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻 Waiting for your job news Good luck 🎉🎉🎉

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Thank you so much 😀

[@erickvond6825]

If you're asking me and you did, I'd say you should use the old fuel filler door. It'll be a lot more stealthy and honestly easier than anywhere else on the car. Best of all, it locks. That said, you may want to think about relabeling the fuel door release with a lightning bolt instead of a gas can.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Very nice!

[@Decenium]

excellent stuff, cant wait for it to run

[@ElectricSuperCar]

You and me both!

[@MrMarkusmulder]

Thanks for the video and Stay safe ✌️.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Thanks, will do!

[@Tom-evnut]

On the small HV cables that are shielded be sure that the shielding is stripped back far enough from you hv junction. It looks stuffed into you fuse holders. You do not want any leakage to you "case ground", I have seen pictures of what happens when you do not realize your shields are accidentally connected to HV.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Thanks for the suggestion!

[@malisenpete]

From a mechanical engineering perspective, you should definetely strap around those battery boxes. With 1G mass will be multiplied 9,81x in a crash. Don't rely only on bolts they can shear, snap, vibrate open, etc. As you may know it's whole lot different forces for cutting vs shearing a bolt so tighteing torques are crucial.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Thanks!

[@fladder1]

About the rear batterybox; from what i can gather from your video I'd say the wrap-around won't do much strength wise. (Mainly because it's behind your mounting points) As for the charging port location I'm pragmatic; whatever you determine to be; 1- the easiest solution (time and money wise) B - the most convenient (wiring and later the charging)

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Thanks!

[@RiddleTime]

I'd consider in the rear crash structure when mounting something there.

[@miguelpagansr6128]

Definitely the port should be where gas fill was, I'm sure you'll hear this more than once. Good luck.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Thanks!

[@ToniPlays_]

This is so interesting, always wondered how the CCS stuff worked even though I know the basics. On another note, the rear battery box bracket could probably be in 2 pieces, one for the front, one for the rear. I think the cooling plate could easily take all the weight well enough so I think the mid sections could be taken off. Just saving off those few pounds. This is just me though

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Nice!

[@Motoch3]

Love the detailed info. A comment on the battery mounting. You have forces of about 1G in acceleration but 2 G in breaking and if there is a crash maybe 3-4G. You might be able to do a load analysis with your software to see if it would hold. You would hate to be in a crash and have the 200 lb batteries go into the driver & passenger.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Thanks for the tip

[@Prt_3D_RC]

I would do a full strap and in the front, bring up that mount also to the top so it has at lease two points for front and back.

[@atticuscorbitt8199]

If it works. I think it’d be cool to try and use The preexisting fuel port on the Porsche

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Noted!

[@newscoulomb3705]

Thanks! I was considering ordering the Fellten CCS1 kit, but they've been listed on backorder/preorder for months.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

I ordered one under the same conditions. I thought it might take months. I think I received it in less than 1 month

[@newscoulomb3705]

@@ElectricSuperCar Great to here! I might order one then. My only concern is that it appears to be limited to 200 A, but I have to assume that is due to the cable they provided. Any plans for a video on the BMS integration?

[@ElectricSuperCar]

more to come!

[@rjung_ch]

This is getting so many nice features, enjoyed it so far. Using the original gasoline location for the charge port, why not? Thank you.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Thanks for the tips!

[@suntzu6122]

Boss i was talking to zeus and he told me to tell you to make something with an emrax axial flux motor. For the style points. Just thought id pass on that thought from the god of thunder. Lols love your channel keep up the good work!

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Interesting!

[@suntzu6122]

@@ElectricSuperCar as far as i know emrax are the only ones selling to consumers. Pretty cool tech :) i wish more maker channels used them!

[@tonyshipman257]

I have an idea for the rear battery box. However, I don't have a enough information to clearly understand how you plan to wire it and more importantly what all has to be done, other than the mounting hardware, to be able to remove it. With that said, my first thought is to keep the front two sets of mounting studs near the rear suspension. To also keep your vertical mounts that go behind the bumper, but then transition to a horizonal brackets somewhere below, the vertical mounts at the body. This way it would make it a little easier to remove the rear battery box - should you or a new owner ever have to do so. The bumper can stay on the vehicle and the battery box can be lowed down using some kind of jack. NOTE: If the rear bumper mounting area on the body is not doable for whatever reason - I would make sure your design has horizonal mounts to allow the lowering of the heavy battery box - without a lot of hassles and/or the need to remove more than one has to. Hope this is helpful. Sincerely, Tony

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Thanks for the suggestion!

[@karls937]

I would definitely put the charge port inside the gas cap door that would be very slick!

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Nice!

[@J.P.__]

Fearlessly charging ahead as usual. Lol. Maybe the housing for the co troller was that big because of heat? Your smaller 3D printed space might heat quicker, I don't know how much heat the controller gives off.

[@nedj10]

If you are going to use the bumper mount points to support the battery box, the question becomes where are you going to mount the bumper, and in doing so account for the needed crumple zone you just occupied with a battery...The Ford Pinto comes to mind for all the wrong reasons.

[@JohnBrown-cn8xg]

My sacrifice to the algorithm gods ;)

[@ElectricSuperCar]

LOL! Thanks!

[@OvidiusBotezatu]

Definitely put the charge port where the gas cap is located. By the way, have you done the FEA for the battery box mounting brackets? It's a must. And it will also help you with the optimization of the bracket design.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Thanks Friend!

[@catalinalb1722]

Hi, the chargind port will look best if mounted instead of the original fueling door.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Good tip!

[@siliconshaman]

I'd go with the charge port being under the gas flap as well, why reinvent the wheel after all. Although I am concerned about the rear battery box being just behind the rear bumper. One rear-end collision and it would compromise the battery possibly which would not end well. Some sort of protective bulkhead might be needed.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Thanks for the comment!

[@bill123f2]

Noo redbull F1 has 3 small battery boxes for weight distribution, I think the best opinion is to fit the one big in the front , the second big in front of the motor and the small in the very back

[@JohnBrown-cn8xg]

He only has so much room to work with

[@robj5780]

Apologies if you mentioned this but why not NACS? Are the parts not available yet? Also, I like the upcoming motor mounts supported from above from the bumper supports. For the charger port mount, I would think either the old filler cap if there is enough space there or behind the rear license place.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Thanks for the comment!

[@omarfermin2283]

for the port location...use the Porsche existing gas lid

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Got it

[@andreyl2705]

awesome🔥

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Thanks 🔥

[@Acamperfull]

I'd put the chargepoint where the fuel fillpoint used to be.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Nice!

[@plusmanikantanr]

I got fed-up waiting on @richrebuilds to complete the Tesla-Ice-D conversion. But you are still going strong on the Porche GT-E conversion 😀 Keep it up! I think Charge Port on the front-left ( driver-side ? ) is the better location I think Rivian does it like that ? Well some EV has it front-left but not on the bumper.... 😀 Can something like Shock-mounts help reduce and minimize the forces , and when the shocks bottom-out, maybe with something like crumple-zones for more safety ?

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Thanks for the comment!

[@dwk5234]

Hi, Jeremy…maybe I didn’t see it correctly, but I would be concerned about the “rear” battery support structure as it looks like it’s strap steel vs. being tube steel. I would use materials and construction similar to that of a tube frame vehicle, providing a stiff structure for all potential forces that could be put on the battery box. I agree with @rthomp03, the g loading could be extreme and you would hate to have the battery come loose in an emergency situation. Just my 2 cents worth, I’m not an engineer and have been known to “overbuild” things in the past.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Got it

[@oOWaschBaerOo]

btw it would be really nice to make the batterybox easy removal, maybe with lugs that you can unlock with like 2 levers ? have a spare box at home that you can swap out quickly, especially if one of them fails ?

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Interesting 🤔

[@mikkoliukko]

Is it better to have the battery extra tight or easy to remove or easy to fly away in a crash.

[@Patriot3]

Great series, I missed in the videos how many KW of battery your using? In this, a race car, commuter, or weekend machine. How will the CG change with battery location?

[@ElectricSuperCar]

All of the above. I think the Cg should be very similar to the original car 45kWh

[@Patriot3]

@@ElectricSuperCar That should get you a 100-mile range or 30-plus beating on it. This is a shitload of work and cash to be so limited. What are you planning for HP? I assume your going to do something to boost the power over a stock Tesla unit. Is that motor out of a three or an S?

[@ElectricSuperCar]

900hp from a performance model S

[@FattyBred]

That much weight behind the rear axle is going to upset the balance of the car in a noticeable way. I don’t think you really have another option tho. It is nice that the weight will be mounted really low

[@manuelcornelisse2824]

Consider to thermoisolate the batterybox from the frame.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Noted

[@tedheierman1181]

The battery box design looks really solid to me. I would factor in the the extra weight for the additional rear strap. Is it worth the extra weight?

[@ElectricSuperCar]

👍

[@AsianDrag0n]

I think like the rest of the comments here, the area where the gas cap is would probably be a good spot. Also, could you explain your situation regarding using NACS in the future please? I know you mentioned it in the vid but I don’t think I quite understood it fully. You said you’ll eventually switch when it’s fully available?

[@ElectricSuperCar]

I do not think Tesla has opened up their network of fast chargers to others just yet. They have said that they will. When it happens, there will be a big market for "adapters" that will go from the tesla charger to the CCS port.

[@Lux158]

The Gasfill port is nice, or one of the rear windows..

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Got it

[@Lux158]

@@ElectricSuperCar Oh and since there exist a few 911 "Öl klappe" (Oil-hatch) with an excess hatch for oil in the middle of the "frunk"-hatch there is also a reason to justify a charging port there :D

[@alexhero7538]

What about the weight on the back? 3 battery boxes and a motor. If you draw it in CAD? is it possible to see what the strengthis of the materials have to be?

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Great point!

[@MikesTropicalTech]

How much is the Felton CCS kit? Do they have any compatibility testing data for some of the charging hardware in the US?

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Link to their site including cost is in the video description. You will have to ask them about the testing data

[@stevenbalderstone709]

Have you calculated the weight distribution with all the components in place? Impact on handling characteristics?

[@ElectricSuperCar]

It will still be an estimate until I get mounting solved. Weight distribution should be similar. Overall weight will be a little heavier.

[@jeremiahgriffin9428]

Would mounting to the bumper mounts cause extra damage in the case of a small intensity rear impact? Like would a normal bumper replacement turn into a more labor intensive battery box rebuild?

[@ElectricSuperCar]

I don't think so

[@matjazwalland903]

With such a large number of electrical components and wires, I would like to know if you have drawn an electrical diagram so that you will be able to find your way around the repair when necessary.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

I have pinnouts for all the plugs that I have wire so far. I have a base wiring diagram but it grows as I get more parts

[@ryanwood2093]

Put the charge port under the Porsche emblem on the nose :)

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Interesting 🤔

[@ruerue7580]

The exhaust pipe would be a good place for the charging port.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Interesting 🤔

[@praneetprakash]

Keep it neat, use the gas port for charging.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Got it

[@vishnunmenon6255]

How about the charge port under the break light. When you back into a charger, it'll work with any length of charger cable.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Interesting 🤔

[@vishnunmenon6255]

Similar to this kzbin.info/www/bejne/qYewYX55rbdkaK8feature=shared

[@vishnunmenon6255]

kzbin.infooyxYh3jqui8?feature=shared

[@andrewshearstone1101]

I think techiesky has a point use ya original fuel port for your charge port its cleaner and less hassle

[@ElectricSuperCar]

👍

[@catalinalb1722]

How did you import the 3D scanned files into Solidworks and how can you work so easy with them without crashing and so... Are these files like STL files? or your 3D scanner outputs STEP files?

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Scanned file output is a graphics file

[@markyormark7747]

Is it possible to relocate the rear battery box to the front of the cabin behind the front axle? Your current plan has the rear battery box with little or no protection from another vehicle rear ending you. Also, the rear battery back behind the rear axle has a big moment of inertia that will effect the handling. Ideally the batteries should be placed between the front and rear axle.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

No room

[@markyormark7747]

Have you also explored eliminating the back seat and placing the battery there? If that is the case I imagine having to cut away structure of the Porsche and fabricating a new structure to hold the battery module. Or is it possible to split that module with some in the front and some in the back for a total of 3 modules.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

@@markyormark7747there is no back seat. Just a 2 seater

[@nebula_M42]

Do like the apple mouse so you've to flip the car over and plugin it on the base loool

[@ElectricSuperCar]

🤣

[@ryancoates4054]

I would like to charge the port where you used to fill up the car and still maintain use

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Nice!

[@TheSidekickking]

Question, do you have to pay the designer money first to design your kit car? Or you can pay after you see the design?

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Not sure what you are referring to. I modeled my own design. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z5vCcpV8g895fZY

[@VovchukUA]

According to IEC High Voltage is a voltage over 1000 volts, AC or DC. So you don`t use any HV system.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

I think in the electric vehicle world they differentiate low voltage (12V) and high voltage (400V). Just EV terminology

[@evanmathiasen]

Are you thiking about weight balancing with your battery placements?

[@ElectricSuperCar]

I am trying to replace the weights that were removed by the engine, transmission, and exhaust.

[@evanmathiasen]

@@ElectricSuperCar Just curious if you were trying to maintain the same weight distribution between the wheels. Porsche seems to be pretty good about going 50/50 and my brief search said the Cayman was like 45/55. Just curious, love your stuff, wish I had the money to have you convert my 1990 Cabriolet...

[@firefly2472]

Morning chap.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Morning!

[@Teper303]

Can You actually make an video or an online Plan of all electric staff like charging, batteries, DC to DC, and all electric weiring. Thanks for this series!!! And To the Ford GT the year is 2016. Thanks so much 🫶

[@ElectricSuperCar]

I'll see what I can do

[@Mp-jw1qg]

i want to do this with a plaid, and a 1975 lwb 911 for a pikes peak/ street car. just enough battery to make it up the mountain and coast back down.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Nice!

[@adamhornak3529]

I think it would be nice to repurpose the old gas intake for the charging port

[@ElectricSuperCar]

nice!

[@tracymason7393]

Does anyone know what NAS by tesla?

[@brandonfranklin6636]

👍

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Thanks for the comment!

[@dmakhkamov]

Put the charge port to the place where the fuel tank was.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Nice

[@accordxtc319]

Why must these dash cam companies crap the bed with the placement of the wire connection. LTT did a great video on how a most of these companies use the same sensor with lack luster video quality or worst no recording in an accident.

[@MerkDolf]

🎉 😄 👌 👍

[@oOWaschBaerOo]

please put it right where the gascap was, perfect fit, and you wont have to plug up that hole somehow also makes it look more "original"

[@ElectricSuperCar]

👍

[@ESegelbranth]

Why not say kW when charging instead of amps? For those that are new it’s easier to understand what the charger say (kW) and what the car says it receive rather then amps.

[@davep3969]

Is it me or is the smaller CCS fuse touching the coolant plate?

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Working on it!

[@wc4j]

HOT ROD 50'S STYLE BEHIND A TASSIL LIGHT

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Noted

[@ericspano4350]

I would keep it in the original gas fill was

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Got it

[@slayer8426]

For the front battery box holder/mount, Since it'll also be the front Electric Motor mount, i think you're going to need s bit mote strength or another mounting structure to the chassis otherwise it may put too much stress onto the actual battery box and the weak points along the subframe battery cradle. The three points would be fine if it was an ICE however you've got a rotating device in a different place to where the original mounts were designed for, and probably alot more weight. Correct me if I'm wrong, thats my thoughts. Keep up the good work! Been watching for many years now and I would like to do my own conversation when I am able to.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Thanks for the suggestion!

[@MikeHarris1984]

Those rear bolts where you mount under the rear suspention, is that part of the frame? Shouldnt there be a bar/mount that connects both sides together???? I would think that being PART of the suspention there, that is needed to prevent major flexing.... just being supported by the top doesnt seem right to me... unless I am seeing it wrong and you are putting it back in, or they are connected elsewhere and the camera isnt picking it up? I only see the sway bar going across and that is NOT going to hold the sides together, thats to prevent the vehicle from flexing/cork screwing. seems like there is a major peice missing... if they just went to the tranny/gearing, I wonder if that was structural then. Looking at it from my engineering point from just a camera and 3D scans here, that is what immidiately jumped out at me is there should be a big support holding the two sides together.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

The red piece will tie the suspension together. Or maybe I am missing what you are saying

[@TheRealMrCods]

Hello, it's me leaving algorithm comments again.

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Thanks!

[@Todestelzer]

I wonder how hard it will be to get it legally on the road at the end? Don’t you need some certificate that you are a professional and allowed and trained to work on EV cars?

[@alexcronin4082]

Keep it clean, charger under the gas cover

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Good call!

[@Builderofcreations]

Do anybody know how I can build my own car body im 16 finna build a hyper car I’ll be uploading it on dis yt but I don’t know where to design it on any tips ?

[@ElectricSuperCar]

Lots of content on KZbin for that

[@Builderofcreations]

@@ElectricSuperCar okay thanks I’ll check it out now nice build you got men🔥🔥

[@josephjones4293]

The rear box mounts seem fine. I think the bar across the back is a good idea to take some of the loading during hard accel… I would add a tie bar between the rear suspension subframes. You’re losing a lot of rigidity without the tie plate and youll toe out on turns as a result. Itll be tiny amounts but still. So the 2 bars on the front lower section of the rear battery box, add a crossbar