Installing Lower Ball Joint Driver's Side Testing & Lubrication Hyundai Santa Fe 2001-2006 Thorough

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01/20/19
Installing Lower Ball Joint Driver's Side Testing & Lubrication Hyundai Santa Fe 2001-2006 Thorough

[@BruceLyeg]

Thanks for taking the time to make the video. I'll be changing my right lower control arm and watched your video to get the torque specs. I could have googled them but remember seeing one of your videos before and knew you always state the specs. Thanks for being so thorough. Your videos are a wealth of information for Santa Fe owners. Very appreciated.

[@richardlloydusa]

You are most welcome. Thank you very much for commenting, watching and the kind words. All the best.

[@richardlloydusa]

I am looking at doing a video on removing the intake manifold to get at the rear spark plugs. Thanks.

[@emilyandrockyhurst9002]

Thanx never done this before really helpful

[@user-ol5rj8qn9o]

The title says ball joint "testing" but I didn't see that. How did you test the joints to absolutely know they were bad and not just some other component?

[@seanr5470]

Hi Richard. Do you know if both inner tie rods are replaceable on this model Sant Fe without having to remove the steering rack? I was told for the passenger side the rack needs to come out.

[@richardlloydusa]

I have never taken them off but it is a pretty tight spot on the passengers side. On the drivers side you might be able to get at it with a pipe wrench or a Swedish Pattern Pipe Wrench (paid link) at Amazon: amzn.to/3JcVQOO. They sell a special clamp on Amazon that mechanics rave about for these situations here is a (paid links) for it : amzn.to/3x2FTs2 it's under $15 at this time and well worth it if it works and if not you can always return it to Amazon. This is a more expensive and professional looking solution at Amazon as well (paid link): amzn.to/3JcVQOO I have not used the second two tools to do this job. I did do it on a 2007 Ford Escape Hybrid with the Swedish pattern pipe wrench on the passengers side (because I had space in the engine bay to get at it) and a pipe wrench on the drivers side (because there was enough space between the transmission and the frame). My Santa Fe is a 4WD so it has the transfer case and different transmission as well which means there is a ton more metal in the way. Another suggestion is to drop the sub frame and that will probably give you much more space, but that is a lot of work too. I would go with one of the specialty tools if I was going to attempt this myself. Thank you so much for commenting and the very kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀

[@seanr5470]

@@richardlloydusa thanks! I have a 2004 with the 3.5L and AWD. Has 183k miles on it. Does yours get pretty poor gas mileage? I’m lucky to get 21-22 on the highway. Usually average about 17-18 with mostly city miles.

[@richardlloydusa]

Yeah, it's a very heavy vehicle with all that extra drivetrain but it's solid and can pull quite a bit (which I like) but the gas mileage especially in the city takes a hit from all the weight and extra drag it causes. I lucked out and got 2008 Ford Escape Hybrid (AWD too) for a great price (needed a LOT of work) prior to the gas price increases so I drive that mostly now as it gets very good gas mileage in comparison. I also have a KIA spectra 5 which I will probably sell soon as I enjoy the Ford more and the gas economy is about the same (believe it or not) all around. I still love the Santa Fe for the power, ride and handling but it costs $$$$ to drive (It's funny how you get attached to things). Here's hoping the price of gas goes down again.

[@nodsib]

Hey there, nice job. Just wondering if you have replaced the front CV shaft(s) in that vehicle yet? On my '06 both of the front sensors acted up because that gear-like ring that the sensor reads corroded and came loose. The ring on yours looked new and shiny. I've still got the drivers side to do, is it easy to do that replacement? Does the car need an alignment after? Thanks

[@richardlloydusa]

The previous owner replaced them before he sold me the vehicle so they are fairly new on the car. I will not be replacing them any time soon but I may take them off to lube them. I can't really comment on how easy or hard it is prior to doing but it looks pretty straight forward as long as your lower ball joint is not too ceased with rust but even then it still does not look too difficult. I will keep it in mind for the near future. Thanks.

[@nodsib]

Thanks, I'll try tackling it soon, before it gets too cold to work comfortably outside on my driveway :)

[@richardlloydusa]

You are welcome. Thank you for watching. All the best.

[@bmwnasher]

Passenger side, ball joint nut loose, bolt tight, drivers side nut tight, bolt loose, you can`t make it up. Thanks for posting.

[@richardlloydusa]

You are welcome. This is why I do the work myself. At least I know things I bolt on are not going to fall off. Found two very serious safety infractions doing this job alone. Thanks again.

[@bmwnasher]

Richard Lloyd Agreed, we have had issues here with tyre shops, they now use a torque wrench on final wheel bolt tightening, my son does the work for me now, but i still stand and watch him to make sure, but ive taught him good.

[@richardlloydusa]

That's great. I am sure he will pass it on to his son too. My wife's friend recently had the tires changed and shortly after she was having brake problems. It turns out they over torqued her rear wheels, warped the disk brake rotors and stripped a few lugs and wheel studs. She was upset but is sending the tire shop the bill for the repairs. All the best.

[@nakiawood5459]

+Richard Lloyd young IP you are it I use a different way to do it. uvty VB. c

[@bmwnasher]

Nakia Wood Call me thick, but is that comment in code?.