Installing The Coosa Support Knees On The Bertram Moppie 25

Installing the Coosa supports along the side decks of the Bertram Moppie using TotalBoat 2:1 and ThixoFlex epoxies. This material is easy to work with and are excellent products!
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Thanks for watching!

[@bipedalhominid6815]

You are literally the only boat dude on KZbin that doesnt have people in your comments telling you that you're doing it wrong. Respect.

[@user-ju4lk5wu1r]

Thanks a mill, something I was always wondering you demonstrated well. Thank you

[@Captainpaulbtyhtr]

You are a layup Jedi !

[@dinsdalepiranah8759]

Thanks Andy. As it happens this is exactly the info I need this week!... also, since Mas from Sail Life is taking time out this past fortnight, you are my only boat repair fix at the mo. So double thanks for being there when I need you.

[@jorgebernal3771]

You’re the best on the Fiberglas on my opinion!!. Big thanks to you for the great videos👍. Keep up the good work

[@St34mPunkPrivateer]

I downloaded your guide and I got to say even though I know what I was doing , it was a nice insurance blanket that you confirmed my theories lol. All the information you mention in it , is available online from multiple different forums and sources, buts its nice to have a quick guide in hand, I defiantly recommend it as a nice guidebook. Hi from IL, restoring a 1967 kenner privateer 26.

[@douglaswells2739]

Nice work. I'm learning a lot before I tackle my project next summer.

[@theresedignard7445]

Looks great. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@albertsanchez-alvarez195]

Love your stuff Andy. Thank you very much

[@br5498]

In the summer I use a summer blend ploy and keep it in a cooler next to ice it real slows it down during use..

[@dannyboy9817]

Great video Andy as usual. For the record, Cabosil is just a trade name for fumed silica. I've just bought some from West System........ which they label as simply "406". I made the mistake of opening the tub in my garage with the door open and it was like setting a smoke bomb off. Had a sore throat and nose for the rest of the day 😬.

[@scottwatson5767]

Great information as always!

[@Rubbernecker]

This video helped me so much! I just bought a project boat (I have no experience in boat building) and I had a huge "aha moment" during this video! New sub!!!!

[@jayybone6227]

Me too Scott!

[@splash5974]

Nice layup on those tabs!

[@jackrabbit5047]

Very instructive and fun to watch. Thank you.

[@jcdesignsandboat-works8290]

Another well done video Andy!

[@manuelcruz-oy4xy]

You videos give to me motivation to continue finish my proyect thks hello from p.r

[@johnmdiscenza8162]

Great video, as always.

[@Twelvestonestacking]

dude! excellent!! i learn so many neat "tricks"! goodonyas

[@mikemulrooney4574]

Thank you for all of the hard work you put into your videos!I enjoy learning all of your different techniques and you do a great job of making it easy to understand!!!Thanks again

[@combackiddd]

Awesome Andy. Very informative and easy to follow. What seemed like an impossible task is now achievable thanks to your guidance. Can't wait to tackle my own Bertram issues. Thanks very much!

[@todddunn945]

Andy, my experience with glassing knees/bulkheads to the hull is to put in a layer of 1/2" foam core between the knee/bulkhead and the hull. We cut the foam into isosceles trapezoid which created ramps that eliminated the need for fillets at the knee/bulkhead to hull transition. We generally hot glued the foam to the hull pretty much the same as you did with your knees and then attached the knees the same way you did. The idea is that the layer of foam eliminated any hard spots on the hull. Just another way of doing it (assuming you happen to have 1/2" foam core around). Good video by the way - as usual.

[@boatworkstoday]

That sounds like a good approach Todd! TY ;-)!!

[@ericmoody3944]

Hot glue gun comes in very handy when glassing bulkheads, I don't know what I would do without mine. As always, great video.

[@ConfusedSoul24]

Your explanation of a hardspot is generally correct however the line from the bulkhead you mention has a different origin. Polyester resin contracts while it cures. If you tab in a bulkhead, the tabbing on both sides will contract and pull the skin around the bulkhead. So it is not the bulkhead pushing out but the skin being pulled in on either side of the bulkhead. There a few ways to avoid this. 1) Use Epoxy instead of Polyester resin. Epoxy contracts while still in the gelling phase, thus the glass can move around a bit. 2) Use generous amounts of fiĺleting on both sides of the bulkhead. 3) leave a gap between skin and bulkhead. This gap can also be filled with a soft or flexible material ( e.g. flexible epoxy, caulking, selfexpanding foam) - this later solution is mostly used by large sailboat manufacturers such as Bavaria or Hanse.

[@Skyrmir]

When you're doing an assembly line production, keep the camera rolling, then keep a 1 second 'finish' shot for each piece. Follow that up with an overall job done shot. It gives people the sense of scale of the work, and maybe shows the minor variations as you go. Plus, it looks cool.

[@samueltaylor4989]

You could put it in place with the epoxy then squirt the hot glue on the side where they meet the boat to bond the two and pop the dollop off when cured. Then you won’t have to rush.

[@donazzopardi2721]

You can put your jig on the inside so you can align the form against it. Second super glue gives you a little more time, once you get it where you want spray it with the hardener and it's set.

[@richardzastrow6354]

That beautiful

[@mikesenften7260]

You need to protect your eyes. I don't know what the world would do without your videos and I'm pretty sure, if you lose your eyes, we lose your vids. Be safe Andy

[@UnyieldingSeraph]

No, we won't lose the videos they just become a lot more more entertaining as Andy epoxies himself to a boat and the floor at the same time.

[@LanceRyley]

if you're worried about not having enough time for the hot glue, try a 5 minute epoxy. I used it to get a piece of G10 to stick to the top of the cabin for a project. The 5 minute actually grabs after about 2 minutes, no worries.

[@dashan6249]

Man I wish you lived and worked in Australia, my boat would be in your shop tomorrow, keep up the good work

[@dinsdalepiranah8759]

I can recommend a good shipwright in Pittwater if you're nearby.

[@georgel5308]

Love u great job

[@pezpengy9308]

i have to admit, i wanted to watch it 11 more times.

[@mikebeasley553]

I probably would have glassed the knees before gluing them in the boat. A couple of spots of 5 minute epoxy and normal epoxy and they set up quickly for tabbing them in. That's how we do it.

[@gotany1]

i have been using polysester resin they use for anchor bolts in walls to set blocks of wood in place where the walls or knees go and konck them off when i have matted one side.

[@ascott6804]

Hotglue is a great idea!!

[@patmcdermott8547]

Luck? Maybe a little - a lot of prep and skill is more like it! Very nice work!

[@jj1gb]

A hull side hard spot and a pressure point are 2 different animals. A hull side hard spot is a stress riser created when the hull flexes everywhere except in a spot that is supported so well it won't let the hull flex. The area immediately around the support sees more stress than anywhere else causing a overload of the material. To prevent it, the support either needs to be soft allowing the flex to occur while still adding support or if it is a hard support reinforce the high stress area and taper those reinforcements off gently. For example thicken the hull around the supports and taper that thickness back to the original thickness over about 5 times the original hull thickness. So for a 1/2" hull reinforced to 1" taper from the 1/2" to the 1" over about a 2.5" distance. A pressure point created by "hammering in a support" pre-loads an area with static stresses. The dynamic forces created on the boat while in operation can either add or subtract to those static stresses. Meaning if done intentionally this can help but if not carefully planned it will create an early failure. Great channel one of my favorites. JJ

[@paulcupach9930]

Good stuff!

[@VW.907]

I'm a super novice, but my experience has been the same. if i want a quick set I mix before then add. If i want a little more work i mix after.

[@raybates3119]

Andy, love your videos and have learned a lot from my basic knowledge of fiberglass construction. I have a 28' Mako that has a crack in the right hand corner of the top cap where the engines mount. The transom is as solid as Gibraltar so that isn't the issue. I plan to remove the engines and repair the crack this winter. What fiberglass cloth and resin or epoxy would you use? I was thinking 1708 and epoxy but...

[@mikeyadrick5154]

a good subject for another video, repairing a boat with a "Hard Spot"--------Mikey

[@St34mPunkPrivateer]

Would love this, as I wanted to add stringers to my boat, but am curious what it would do to the structure.

[@Steve-wy3xq]

So helpful, when you lift over the wetted out fabric to tab in the knees you use your hands to smooth it out, did you have to brush or bubble bust it at all?

[@dashan6249]

LOL perfect timing

[@jamessilverman4887]

Thank you so much for these excellent videos. I am just about ready to start restoring a few very old sailboats with varying amounts of damage. I have not in all of my searches come across a way to restore a Sunfish mast step that had been previously restored and has major missing sections to span and attach to the cylinder I found how to restore, but do not know how to tie in to the deck because of these large voids. Where can I find the method to make this kind of repairs. Is it possible to send you pictures?

[@theotherfinnegan9955]

hi Andy. how come you didn't glass it also to the gunnel.

[@jordandegeus5791]

How do you determine how many layers should be used to tab in knees, bulkheads or other things?

[@bernardhacheg7943]

Very good. Where do that adjective come from and how can I get some?

[@eglicomet]

Hi Andy, Dumb question: why do you not attach the knee at the top? It seems that you could get squeaks/flex when stepping on the side decks and that would be an easy way to eliminate that issue. I love your videos--this is very informative. Thank you.

[@jackneff179]

If you were going to re\\laminate the topside of a sail boat would you use total boat epoxy or westsystem?

[@demagescod9657]

I watched this video for the tabbing... I am reinforcing a transom with Coosa for an outboard conversion... I cannot find any info on how big to make the tabbing... SO many questions. Any chance on you discussing how substantial tabbing needs to be for applications like that?

[@svdellajean253]

Why cut the top of the coosa board to match the hull so well when you’re not bonding the two together?

[@jimmiller4951]

I'm confused , I typically would have placed the knee with the longer end at the bottom why did you do it the way you did ?. I'm always open to learn Andy.

[@mattl6300]

Would a heavy duty double stick tape work to hold them in place while the epoxy set up? Could a 1/4" round over bit in a router be used on the face before install, to save time by not having to sand the radius in place?

[@gsaunds100]

I’ve always thought that the way to prevent hullside hard spots then tabbing a knee or bulkhead to the hull is to leave a small gap between the bulkhead and the hull, perhaps filled by a foam strip. I’m not familiar with the properties of the flexible epoxy that you used, but it’s possible that it might provide the same result.

[@kwasg3]

Timely vid, I just was making 1708 flat panels. QUESTION: Have you found any structural difference in which face remains exposed? I did a layup with mat side down, glass side out, times 2 layers. The mat side smooth finish when done is good enough to paint, so thinking about making first layer mat side down, layer 2 glass side down, so that the mat side is exposed on layer 2. Thoughts? Thanks for Vid as always! Great channel...

[@jeffcantrell6440]

I always mix the resin and cab. together in a 5 gallon bucket with a lid,, and grab what ever I need to fill in, and add the hardener to it then,,,is this bad?

[@truckerdaddy-akajohninqueb4793]

20:40 The panels added appear more white than soaked in resin?

[@Afraidinct]

Hey andy , If I was going to build a boat from the ground up, Do you think Coosa would be good for building everything like Frames as well Hull and Interior ? If you stack them can you build load bearing Decks with ??

[@larrywilliams1756]

Andy what grit sandpaper should I use to print the glass 36 grit or 60 grit

[@ManSingh-hu8ux]

Hey. What is the knee made out of?

[@markkurtis8637]

I noticed that you were wearing a respirator while mixing and applying the silica thickened epoxy. Are other fillers / thickeners equally hazardous?

[@chewyboy]

I am curious as I’ve never seen it on any boats but it does not mean it does not exist does anyone use stainless inserts that you could actually drill out the board insert it with some thickened Epoxy and then instead of having to use self tapping screws you could use more like a nut and bolt and have a metal on metal mechanical bond?

[@jmconnollyus]

Love the channel. What's the old saying, "I'd rather be lucky than good"? Honestly, I don't believe luck had much to do with it. The years of experience you have are what made that flawless. Have a question though. I live in South Texas. The OVERNIGHT temperature rarely goes lower than 79F (usu. at dead-thirty in the am) and tops out between 100-105F in the afternoons from as early as May to late September some years. There have Halloweens when the high temp was in the mid-90's. To my knowledge there is not an epoxy in this world that will give more than 15 seconds of working time in those temps. I do not have a shop or shed where I can even cover the boat, which would lower the temps, but not the humidity. Did I mention the humidity? Averages 40-80% most of the time, and I'm inland. Do you have any suggestions other than waiting for the two weeks of Spring and Fall every year where it's actually habitable here to get things done? I see people working on boats down on the coast during this time of year, but have never seen them doing lay-ups -- mostly sanding & painting. Any tips from you or the collective are appreciated.

[@dannyrowan227]

Hey Andy , what vacuum is that that your using with the festool sanders ?

[@martindalbecp.eng.7450]

Hi Andy, is a core of expanded polyethylene instead of Coosa would have done the job ? Maybe you need to lay more glass, maybe twice thinker core, but I think the expanded PE would cost less. What is you thinking on this

[@stevemccormick4938]

Fumed silica is the product, cabosil is the brand, as is aerosil and others.

[@ocxb]

The only thing I would do different I would of interlaced the individual layers of materials, probably wouldn’t make a difference but ...

[@ulicescastillo6749]

What type of material is that you use to do the knees?

[@pjorgerod522]

Hi Andy, I am learning a lot with your videos. Just help me please, why you say in 8:00 minute "while epoxy cure"? Does epoxy need to be cured before you install the knee? Could you not install all togther, epoxy and the glue and cure all in place? Thanks in advance, Paul

[@Pushyhog]

Get a ryobi cordless caulk gun.

[@stevegem4155]

Nice job......but it seems to me you turned a one-step process into two. if you had just put thickened epoxy along the back edge of that knee ,pressed it into place, (you can always find a way to support it) and then use the squeeze out to form your fillet ..done

[@robertp7209]

1 minute epoxy

[@danfall1003]

The hotglue does indeed afford the opportunity to set, fillet, and tape the part. I do this by using fast epoxy for the glue and fillets. By the time my tapes are wetted; the fillets are at gel.

[@danfall1003]

Two tapes each side is a bit of overkill for a non-structural fitment. The edge would be better left unglassed because the edge will be thicker (no radius) and screw retention is high in coosa. Then you would simply overbore and fill the screw holes to make a stronger thread. I never just use the hands as I have found the consolidating roller to provide a bit of epoxy squeezeout to the substrate and always less air. I take that back; only hands when the rollerwork can be seen. For blind work, hands only. A good video overall.

[@douglasthompson2740]

Hello, Kinda wondering if you gave any consideration to glassing the inside of the shoebox fitting of the deck and hull where the bolts show through? Always seems to be a source of future leaks and a generally weak spot. Almost all commercial boats are glassed at that juncture when built. To tell the truth I am surprised Bertram didn't do it. I am guessing from what you are experiencing in this build that the quality of Bertram must have declined over the years. I know in the sixties and early seventies they were the gold standard of construction. Not so much for interior design and layout but tops for construction. Good project. Take care. Doug

[@erikwilson9498]

Hi Andy, I am building a Fiddle/violin for a town called Fiddletown in California and need advice on what I should be used for resins and glass. It is a charity project That needs something that will last many years. I have built the purple foam fiddle ( 18 feet) but need help in what to use to coat it. Not worried about strength as much as longevity. It will be on a roof so nobody can touch it. I have some experience with resin, ( I'm a set builder) and watched videos of painting it first but what is better? for non yellowing and longevity? epoxy or polyester?

[@truckerdaddy-akajohninqueb4793]

21:30 I would have watched 11 more times

[@kenpfaff5451]

Hi Andy, One quick question, why no glass on the top of the support

[@boatworkstoday]

I don't really think it's needed as there's glass going up both faces of the knees to help with possible abrasion and weight of the deck if there is any movement.

[@Gantzz321]

could you just take your square and place it along the deck and the sidewall?

[@colinbolton5986]

Silica is the chemical name, Cabosil is Cabot Corps trade name for their fumed silica.

[@VW.907]

Oh now you tell me cant go over 90 deg angles. 😋

[@atcaleb]

I gotta ask, I called Jamestown and ordered gelcoat Thursday. I called with questions and told them I watched your vids and that if followed a link from your video. I ordered over the phone. Do you think you got something for that or did I unintentionally cut you out? I'm going to order 10 gallons of resin and $300 of glass from them tomorrow but again, id like to just call in my order. What do you think, do you get credit if I mention your videos when I call and don't use the online cart?

[@davidd837]

Andy, why not glass the knee forward facing on the bench before installing?

[@davidd837]

Never mind, I need to learn to ask the questions after viewing the entire video. The fiberglass interlocked with the piece placed on the hull

[@darrylmcleman6456]

The greenish colored material in the sanded area where you installed the knee is gelcoat or bare glass???

[@boatworkstoday]

Bare glass :-)

[@darrylmcleman6456]

Thanks.Hard to tell with my TV screen as the colors are somewhat skewed. Viewing from westcoast Canada.@@boatworkstoday

[@mohammedekram3521]

Hey Andy is there way that I can talk to you?

[@MrDTF]

Why not join to the deck as well?

[@boatworkstoday]

I wanted to allow for some movement of the deck just incase it's needed :-)

[@danfall1003]

He might have to if it squeaks from lfv.

[@jducharme71]

Squeaking is joint is exactly what I was thinking when I saw the layup completed.

[@natedawgws]

This does not pertain to this specific video. But I have a boat that I use only on sundays. The rest of the time it is on a trailer in my garage. I am wanting to paint the boat. Can I use alexseal topside paint on bottom and the top?

[@boatworkstoday]

Not really a good idea to use below the waterline. You *might* get away with it for a while but eventually it will blister and fail :-/ Much better off going with an epoxy based bottom paint

[@natedawgws]

BoatworksToday I have gelcoat as factory finish. And want to roll and tip a paint . Is alexseal the best?

[@towmanjbo]

Andy, I've noticed that a lot of the time when you're laying glass you use multiple layers of the same size. Every thing I've seen before said it was best to make each layer larger than the previous layer. Why do you do it that way?

[@boatworkstoday]

Really depends on the situation and application. For tabbing I'll do multiple layers at the same time but for actual repairs (holes) I'll only do one layer at a time

[@towmanjbo]

@@boatworkstoday Aha I see that'll help me in my project but, that's not really what i meant. What I was after was the size of each layer. Say you have a 1" square hole, first layer would be 1.5" square then 2" then 2.5" and so on

[@davidcarr4464]

Good stuff Andy but why didn't you prep/round over the knee before you mounted it? I mean I just think it would have been a bit easier on the bench. Good stuff though 👍

[@boatworkstoday]

Either way would work, doing it the way I did seemed to be less less messing around since I was going to need to sand the area anyway to remove any of the excess epoxy squeeze-out :-)

[@rogerheuckeroth7456]

I'm surprised that you did not roll out the glass after installing it. You rolled it out beforehand, but not after applying it. It looked like you just used your gloves, and maybe a squeegee...

[@LasVegasVocalist]

First!

[@richardwelkiv8325]

Soooooo ya know that Festool is over 450 bucks . Thanks for the video though .

[@georgel5308]

First

[@Spectre8282]

Shapewear ads suck! 😂

[@boatworkstoday]

Lol ;-)! Unfortunately I have no control over that