Installing the ULTIMATE 12V System in my DIY Canopy Setup

[@explorebound]

Quick heads up! You can use the "EXPLOREBOUND" discount code for an extra 5% off ANY iTechworld gear (even stuff on sale). 😁 Check it out here ➡️ bit.ly/44OJfxI

[@antoninosolano7667]

Mate you would of made a fantastic TV presenter ha you are very confident and convincing good luck to you guys cant wait for your oz adventure 😂😂

[@explorebound]

Thanks mate really appreciate that 🙂

[@andrewt3952]

This is true, but sometimes I really wonder if you were once an airline steward. Sometimes I’m waiting for the safety briefing! 🤣 Congrats on ur growth mate.

[@LBforTRUTH]

Haha seriously! Definitely could be selling anything on TV.

[@-PORK-CHOP-]

When you setup the kitchen finally don't fall into the trap of hard mounting the induction in the kitchen, keep it as a plugin unit, when you mount them solidly they fail as they are not meant to be bashed around on corrugated roads and it breaks the electronics inside, they are designed to sit on a non-moving kitchen benchtop, safer to go for a plug in-out version, when finished pack it in a safe place where it won't get bashed around, this will keep it happy.

[@BT_life2]

Yeah good tip

[@samevans1279]

8:22 just a tip use a level or something straight to rub across the panel. Works really well to ensure there is no bubbles

[@explorebound]

Good tip mate, cheers!

[@Den-pu6re]

I've used a roller and it's fantastic

[@ilove2explore]

Looks really professional mate, only thing I would consider changing is the way you strapped down the battery. The battery frame was screwed to the floor with 6 screws and then your straps to hold down the battery are anchored to the frame. The battery weighs 38kg and is essentially being held down by those 6 screws. I would have bolted the eyelets through your frame and then through the canopy floor with washers underneath the floor.

[@willoughbyklopp3347]

Hey mate done well. I have one of the Itech world 12v boxes as well and the only thing I can suggest is to put different bolts in the front of the controll hub because mine have allready stripped out and was a pain to get out and replace

[@explorebound]

Good to know mate cheers!

[@NS81111]

Nice build and riv-nuts are great bits of gear and if you ever find that they start to spin when you re tighten the bolts drill them out and use rib ones they bite into the tubing more as well as help resist future spinning. If you end up striping the screws out that hold the accessories to the head board or the screws are not strong enough look up Tee Nuts they dig into the back of the wood when you screw a bolt in from the front and as a result you have a lot stronger fixing as well as one that will not strip out and can also be lock tight with a mild lock tight

[@ianweal3081]

My additional info, use anti seize on threads prior to final tightening, assists greatly when needing to disassemble in future, can be the difference to bolt undoing or just spinning rivnut loose from frame. Pain when that occurs.

[@oshika8713]

Hey mate, the setup is coming along nicely. Hot tip, at the end of the uninsulated lug once crimped the little hole exposed, you can fill your lug with solder from there. Good luck with the rest of the build!

[@DasGav]

You're welcome Mate! I'm loving your work and look forward to yours and Bianca's next adventure.

[@explorebound]

Our next big trip will be the Gibb River Road in less than a month now! We can't wait 😁

[@Mzstato]

Thanks for the discount code Daniel! Just used it to upgrade our dcdc charger from a 25a Kickass to a 40A iTech world unit! I cannot wait to see your next canopy build vid.

[@explorebound]

Thanks mate! And good choice with the 40A DCDC - I’ve just been on the road today and put 200A back into my battery in the one trip 😁

[@MxODraconis]

Lookin' mint! I did find those breaker fuses were very unreliable and my 60a would randomly trip at 40a loads, and seem to be affected by heat. Hope yours operate as intended.

[@explorebound]

Thanks mate - that's good to know! I'll keep an eye on them and see how they go. 🙂

[@sizwesabawu7237]

Hi there. Great job. Do you have the wiring diagram for what you did? Would really appreciate it.

[@gmoriano]

well done very good set up. Pretty much exactly what I did by format in my Ranger and love it, but not that horse battery.....nice work.

[@aaronodguy967]

The end result looks great. A few tips from an electrician though - those circuit breakers give a lot of trouble and can trip on corrugated roads. Most people go back to fuses as they are more reliable. - the crimpers you used are for stranded cable not flexible. Hex die crimpers are the only way to go for high current applications like inverters. - you’ve installed a 4 way outlet and you don’t have a safety switch. This does not comply with AS3000. Be very careful with using appliances that have a metal case and are earthed. Stay safe out there mate .

[@MxODraconis]

They installed a 4 way powerboard, that just plugs into the inverter and isn't a 'permanent' installation. Of which the AS is for a powerboard not a 4-way outlet.

[@ianweal3081]

He's plug an power board into an inverter. How can that require a safety cut off, it's no different to plugging an appliance directly into the invertor. You have me totally puzzled. If your saying we need to run a residual current device cut out from an inverter prior to plugging an appliance in, you have created a mine field for every inverter owner in Australia, if your correct, safety has gone over the top. I can assure you I will run a power board, use my toaster, sandwich press, whatever and will never run a RCD ever, no matter whom tells me otherwise.

[@aaronodguy967]

@@ianweal3081 If you are only using one appliance plugged into an inverter then you don’t need an RCD because it’s like an isolation transformer. If you plug multiple earthed appliances into a power board then you need an RCD. AS3001 exists for a reason mate

[@ianweal3081]

Sorry, still don't comprehend. If I plug one application in that isn't requiring earth, why do 2,3 or 4 need RCD? You need to explain that better, especially so others understand your prospective on it. Items that are earthed, where are you proposing I earth them to on an in vehicle application as has done here. Truly curious for an explanation. RCD connects to what? Yes AS 3001 may exist for a reason in today's over the top safety ruled Oz world, but I grew up in a time when a toaster had an active & neutral, stainless steel body, no earth, just bakelite handles stopping (preventing) a shock, haha, we lived dangerously. Things have changed, I comprehend that. How is an inverter or RCD to be earthed on a vehicle body, chassis, rubber tyres, perplexed.

[@aaronodguy967]

@@ianweal3081 I don’t have to explain anything to you. Do some research of your own instead of asking technical questions in the comment section here. Google how an isolation transformer works as a start

[@gregcooke3260]

Another brilliant instructional video. Lovely work - neat, tidy and efficient. I'll be interested to see what alternator you go for when that part of the project comes about. Thanks for yet another entertaining video.

[@explorebound]

Thanks mate!!

[@terry2cows]

The issue isn’t how many amps you have but how many amps you use and can replace, I have 360ah and running induction cookers, I have 1000w of solar and even then it’s a struggle to fill the batteries back up let alone when it’s cloudy and or rain

[@logik1677]

brehhhhhhhh that end result!! *chefs kiss* primo! fantastic job mate, attention to detail paying off!

[@explorebound]

Thanks mate really appreciate that!! 🙂

[@4wdadventureoz]

Great job and brilliant explanation on why you’ve done it. Only thing, maybe put some rubber on the battery where the ratchet rests on it, on corrugations the battery will still vibrate and the metal may rub through the battery casing. Cheers

[@streetlube]

@explorebound why did you use crimp for inverter but plug solder for the anderson plugs? I always find it confusing on when to solder or crimp and everyone seems to do differently. Any rules of 👍 for this would be great.

[@NS81111]

Crimping is better for anything that is subject to vibrations as the crimp allows for vibration to be absorbed, were as soldiering causes a solid joint with no flex that can will crack over time resulting in shorts that are very hard to diagnose later down the track due to the nature of the short. Good example all off road cars harness come standed crimped from the factory and there is a reason for it

[@kradius2169]

I'm a crimp & solder fan.

[@starskymedia]

Incredible mate, possible to include a link to a more detailed wiring diagram for your setup?

[@sizwesabawu7237]

Great insights. Just got my 40A iTech unit here in UK (though iTW don't ship to UK... That needs sorting out). Now onto the build. Thanks for the valuable information.

[@mickkovarik4195]

Awesome setup and series mate, counting the days till I pick up my canopy and start the build process!

[@explorebound]

Cheers mate! 🙂

[@danielhaidar4802]

Hey man I just wanted to warn you about dip soldering, you didn’t leave it enough time for the wire to drink the solder. I’m an automotive electrician I’ve done that mistake before that’s what we call a dry joint. Also I would recommend not dip soldering as it adds resistance to your circuit as solder sits between the 2 copper connections(Anderson lugs are actually copper but coated).

[@explorebound]

Thanks mate, appreciate the advice! Is crimping the best solution for Anderson connections?

[@justasix8815]

Check out all of the factory wire joints in your car. They are crimped for a reason. Crimp is more resistant to vibrations. Solder can crack/brake especially if not done well.

[@KeegsAndElly]

This could be a bit of an ask, but do you have a wiring diagram, or something similar? I'm just starting my 12v adventure and it's very daunting and confusing trying to understand wire size, fuse size, shunt etc. A diagram would really help clear this up. Thanks!

[@aaronlavell1202]

Hey mate, loved this build is it possible for you to do a complete wiring run through? where all wiring goes to and from? looking to do the same build.. cheers 🍻

[@christhomas4260]

You do a good Job mate. Well done

[@robbiecryer]

Mate'eeee What uhh brilliant job Thanks for showing about the rivnut tool Thanks for sharing

[@12weeksandbeyond5]

Where did you mount the battery monitor display

[@dekaOsiris]

Hi mate, fantastic video, clear and concise, it's particularly a massive help for me as I have the exact same setup as you (only difference, I have 2 125ah lithium batteries from Itechworld), I'm definitely going to steal your ideas to clean up my setup 😄 Wish you blogged a step by step guide of the wiring, but I think I get the jist of you've done 🙂

[@jackturtle131]

Very nice clean install Daniel, you should be proud of a job like that mate

[@explorebound]

Thanks mate, appreciate that 🙂

[@allanpower8041]

Great build series, Daniel. I didn't know about the power outlets that you can plug directly into the inverter and no need for an electrician.

[@explorebound]

Thanks mate! 🙂

[@6669shoot]

Mate that is an awesome setup hope its serving you well. Was wondering if you earthed the negative terminal of the battery to your chasis. Ive bought the itech world 2 x 120 ah batteries kit, i just can't find an answer on earthing the negative terminal..cheers mate

[@dominic5080]

Hi I was just wondering what size cable you used to connect ground to the aux battery or if it all goes through the DC-Dc charger! Cheers

[@multileroy2000]

Hey man, awesome got out. I was wondering where you purchased those battery straps from?

[@adamdunning1791]

Awesome setup mate and done really well too. Will you be doing fixed solar on the canopy? If so it will make the system work even better when stopped for a few days. I did this on my setup and it will put 25 to 30amp+ in once it is needed. Recharges the battery in no time.

[@Gridz9]

Hey mate did you select the solar priority button ?

[@adamdunning1791]

@ I run a victron dcdc charger and a seperate victron Mppt so they can charge at the same time

[@willmarks4541]

Hey mate, once the cars spun up, how much power does the dc dc push into the battery? I know it's rated for 40 amps. But it would be interesting to see this irl. As they often have different charge profiles, bulk, boost, float etc. Maybe at 50% discharged it would be interesting to hear how many amps the victron shunt sees once the car starts. And if adding solar to the DCDC /MPPT unit limits the power supplied from the alternator. As I know some units will split their max power between two sources. I.e. It might be rated for 50 amps. And it could take 50 amps of solar or 50 amps of alternator current, but if more than one is connected simultaneously then it limits both sides to 25 amps max. Which might earn you 25 amps from alternator and only 5 amps solar. Be interesting to see all the nerdy real world data!

[@explorebound]

Hey mate! Currently my poor factory alternator is maxed out (it's only a 90A), so I'm seeing about 35-36A whilst driving. There doesn't appear to be much variance in this throughout different SOC either, consistently putting in that 35-36 until full where it cuts out (bit lower when idling). Once I upgrade the alternator down the track I'll revisit this. 🙂 edit: I'll have to get back to you on how it handles solar AND alternator input, my solar blanket is a fold-out style so never usually use both simultaneously.

[@garypriddin9949]

Hey Daniel what alternator are you upgrading to ?

[@kradius2169]

​@@explorebound​... Nice install. Thank you for sharing. I'm learning here. Couple observations, if I may: 1:53 ... 6B&S feeder cable voltage drop, starter battery to DC-DC charger, may be limiting DC-DC charger output. By chance, had you ever measured the voltage drop between starter battery & DC-DC charger? ... would perhaps be nice to know, while the DC-DC charger is at max output. Blue Sea Systems cable sizing chart indicates a lot more copper for that feeder, 2B&S cable ... to keep voltage drop @3% for 45A (max input per iTechWorld manual) and a run of 20 feet = 40 foot circuit. Also, for the 2,000W inverter, per the iTechWorld manual, recommended 60mm clear all around, and keep fan & vents clear. 13:25 ... You may have partially blocked the fans, and, the fans appear to be blowing hot air on to your breakers & cabling, not ideal -- a problem? My $0.02 Thanks again for the content.

[@davidlong4262]

Awesome job mate but why "Solder the Anderson connecters and not he inverter lugs?

[@explorebound]

Thanks mate! The inverter and other lugs have a whole at the other end so flood soldering isn’t an option - it would just pour out the bottom.

[@ianweal3081]

Get into induction cooking, youll never look back. Ideal for quick hot cook ups. Having said that we still carry a butane cooker though as we utilise a aluminium pressure cooker occasionally so as to treat ourselves to super tender meats, yum.

[@AndyG11]

Awesome video! What negative terminal in the control hub did you connect to your shunt? Looks like maybe the one on the back of the front panel of the control hub?

[@BAMOC1492]

Does that itech 2000w inverter have a RCD circuit breaker? if not, id be upgrading to one that does for safety, a lot of the new to markets didn't have it but the series new ones do.

[@explorebound]

Hey mate, this model doesn't have a built-in circuit breaker - I've installed a 250A circuit breaker in the main power feed, and am using a surge protected powerboard for the output that will trip if there's any issues. 🙂

[@bobryan4445]

​@@explorebound That protects your circuit wiring but not the end user of the 240v appliances. What happens if someone accidentally becomes part of the 240v circuit, you want an RCD to trip and save your life, otherwise to the inverter you'd look like some additional load. It'd be worth your peace of mind to get a sparky to inspect and test your system to prove it is safe and complies with the current electrical standards . Nice effort on your build, it just needs to be safe 👍

[@shaunmatthews9680]

Wish mine looked a quarter as good as that mate. Ripping job.

[@JustMatt275]

Thanks Daniel for sharing this information, really intuitive and detailed, I have been wanting to do my own 12V set-up. Now you have given me the confidence.

[@GoodThanks-of9cm]

Love ur work! So tidy bro 🤘 I reckon you could hide ur cable for ur power board underneath the power board itself and just make a lil notch to hide that wire completely.

[@ronfarrugia145]

Hi. Was wondering what sort of carpet you used in your set up? Cheers

[@explorebound]

Hey mate, I got the carpet from Bunnings 🙂

[@tonykellalea783]

Where did you get your Crimpers from to crimp the cable for the inverter? Mine only goes to 6b&s

[@a2chase403]

another video nailed! can I ask where you bought your crimpers?

[@brentwismer5602]

Very well done mate.

[@jaryd7306]

Nice, how does the 2000w cope with the induction? Deciding whether I go 2000w or 3000w for mine

[@mebob5842]

Hi mate what bread crimping tool is that one that you used for the 0 gauge wire and will they work with 4 gauge wire as well thanks

[@philandclarepatch6262]

Thx for the 12 volt fit out video! ITechworld equipment is really top quality gear and one I use regularly! Phil

[@levihall8285]

Hey mate, what did they run the wires on from engine bay to canopy?

[@junebingham4213]

great installation Daniel, You have done a professional job, cheers

[@garyschopshop]

Great video mate! Can't wait to complete my setup now with the help of your video! Where did you get those lug crimpers!? They're heavy duty!

[@OutbackOutlaw]

Such a tidy and awesome fit out

[@lavs8848]

Hey mate. Did you need to ground your second battery to chassis?

[@supericeman9817]

where does the grounding wire on the inverter go to??

[@explorebound]

That goes to a common ground inside the control box 🙂

[@jamieweston4495]

Guday mate, I have the same Dmax and canopy. Was wondering about the anderson plug that is in the canopy. You plugged your DcDc directly into it. Correct ?? Did you also run an ignition wire. Alos how is it all going. I am about to buy the same Hub and a 200 slimline battery.

[@shaunadams7335]

Great stuff mate, good video, great walk through and even better results!

[@richardatkin8526]

You're a wizard Dan, great work/ video as always 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽

[@DiscoStu30]

What size wire did you use for the inverter chassis ground?

[@matthewbrundle4982]

Hey Daniel do you recommend mounting the inverter as close to The battery as possible?

[@explorebound]

Yep! That was a big factor in deciding where to mount everything in my canopy setup - to keep the inverter right next to the battery. 🙂

[@VideoShowMeHow]

Nice work mate, all coming together! You're going to love that capacity, I'm a bit of a convert to induction with my setup when camp fire isn't an option :)

[@andrewb1109]

Riv nuts into the floor have you ever hit the support beams underneath and if so does it affect the nut crimping over. About to do similar 👍

[@explorebound]

Hmm that’s a good question actually, I’d say best to mark the support beams to avoid them (lucky I missed them with mine!)

[@nickreynolds2364]

Awesome work mate, looks a million bucks 👍 this is real proof that a nice neat, simple setup is more than enough to cater for most tasks. Again, top job mate 👍

[@fatmanoverlanding]

Great work. Looked like a bought one. Loving the setup so far. 👍

[@jorjimaco5331]

You need that alternator wire buddy otherwise it’s gonna turn on and off constantly and won’t charge. 👍🍻

[@jasO43]

Wow Hat off to your efforts very neat!!! I have the same Ute…. Kinda same canopy.. But I only have a victron 30amp dcdc… how did u go when you started up when the second battery discharged.. my Ute struggles hard… to keep charge to the start battery I’ve even had flat start battery when I did a real short drive 🤦..I did hear your going to do a alternator up grade.. the same year model mux runs a bigger alternator 120 to our 90amp or there’s bigger version made aftermarket , I got to figure which way I’ll go… anyhow keep the good vids rollin guys!! 👌

[@-PORK-CHOP-]

Very nice and clean setup mate, you're becoming quite the little carpenter and carpet layer, have to call you Mr Ryobi keep an eye on those breakers they tend to be unreliable and cause phantom power issues, ditch them b4 they become an issue, replace with MEGA fuses, lot easier and 100% reliable, Induction you will be fine with the 400A battery, 200A is a min I would spec I run a 200A and 3000w and it does fine cant use all 3000w as my BMS is only 200A, 3000w needs 250A continuous so maybe I should swap you my 200A for your 400A ?, I need to get a second 200A lithium so I can max it out with a welder while making a coffee , main problem is keeping it charged, the 40A is not really enough, I run a 50A and 200W solar and it does ok, consider upgrading the alternator and adding if you have issues add a second 40A DC2DC, so 80A charging, if you ran it down to 10% it will still take around 4-5 hours of driving to fill it to 100% even with 2 x 40A DC2DC, but you will have to use a LOT of power to run it down to 10%, I'm guessing Induction, Air fryer, kettle, hair dryer, coffee machine, electric BBQ, electric blanket, waffle maker, 50" TV while your there might as well throw in a microwave as well, keep us up to date with how it all goes.

[@explorebound]

Thanks mate!! Good to know regarding the circuit breakers too, will keep an eye on them 🙂

[@mackenziericketts6686]

Hey did you ground the auxiliary battery? I’m installing very similar setup and trying to see how other people have done it

[@TheBASR05]

Battery negative just goes straight to the common ground on the fuse block

[@HammerRocks]

Good stuff. Another well explained and captured DIY project. 👍

[@colinfitzgerald9304]

Hi Daniel - I love you DIY vids.. In regards to using Rivnuts for your canopy installs, are you using Aluminium ? If not have you experienced any electrolyte issues with unlike metals ?

[@ryanstewart8836]

Nice mate. Even used colour coded straps to hold down the battery 🤙

[@travelsolo2677]

Very informative video 👌👍 one question I have, doesn’t the Control Hub have a fuse inside box for the DCDC charger? Itech told me no need for an external fuse. Or did you just add one as an easy reset option

[@explorebound]

Thanks mate! Regarding the control box, all connections are fused so technically if you’re mounting it right next to the battery you wouldn’t need an additional fuse, I just wanted to play it safe and protect the cable running to the control box too as the closer the fuse/circuit breaker is to the battery, the better. 🙂

[@Accolades70]

Great vid... Hows the Bump Steer fix going ??

[@logik1677]

ohaha when you were drillin in that amp, i was like "dont u dare tell me youve done it upside down after all that" XD

[@explorebound]

Haha imagine.. 😂

[@nathan549]

Hey mate. Great video as always. Question with your setup, I have the same canopy as you. Did you run a midi fuse from the battery or is it just off the 60amp breaker?

[@TorqHub]

Great job Daniel, 400aH is a MAMMOTH amount of capacity for a 4by kit out, certainly won't need to be scared of cloudy days on your trip 💪🏻 and nothing exceeds quite like excess 🍻 🤣 Looking forward to fitting up my 2000w inverter and also give induction cooking a run. 👌

[@TorqHub]

...also - How fkn *AWESOME* are Riv-Nuts? 😍

[@explorebound]

Thanks mate!! Yep it's pretty insane, can't wait to put it to good use. 😁 Haha they make installs SO much easier - can't believe I've only recently discovered them...

[@neilmitchelhill9388]

Another terrific build & video

[@oliverdouglas9370]

Mate I wish I was as clever as you, take my hat of to you great job , can I employ u to work on my car 😁, love yr work and vids mate

[@explorebound]

Haha thanks mate!! It looks fast with the timelapses but I'm a pretty slow worker in reality so not sure you'd want me working on your car. 😝

[@2462ist]

loving the series so far

[@4WheelingInNSW]

Well done mate, very near set up indeed 👌👍 looking forward to seeing it in use on future trips.

[@explorebound]

Thanks mate!! 😁

[@cookiecanfly_]

Unreal man!!! Hey where did you get your Velcro patches made? I need to make a couple haha thanks 😎

[@Behappy-h6j]

Great job mate

[@TheFilo29]

That’s very neat love it!

[@ahmedabdullah8700]

After all that planning why wouldnt u hook up some solar panels??? Cross no bridge nothing. Itll be too late by then

[@jasondoffay]

Great video!

[@confuzsays7196]

Nice job

[@davidmoore7303]

Excellent 👌

[@shaungill6992]

Very nice mate 👌

[@DocJags]

As usual, super jealous of the setup. But as always super helpful as I’m watching through all your videos since I’m thinking of gettin an MRT tray and canopy myself. Keen to follow along for more and get a bunch of inspo!! P.S. is that second battery monitor slightly off centre? ;)

[@explorebound]

Thanks mate!! PS: oh no don’t say that, I’ll never unsee it!! 😂

[@SydneySchneider-n2o]

Clean clean clean

[@JAYFEATHERBOONDOCKS]

Maybe my eyes deceive me it went too fast but it looked like your inverter positive cable end ring terminal was bigger than the post on the breaker, if it is larger than the stud on the breaker it would be wise to match them. Larger rings than studs cause excess heat. If you were using a cheap fuse you would blow them constantly using your induction cooktop. Probably won’t trip that breaker as easy so you may not notice an issue. At least this has been my experience. Nice build.

[@cyclemoto8744]

Always appreciate your content and your time so I hopefully I don't come across as a detractor. 1. There's really no need to flood solder if your crimps are correct, doing so will actually waste time and result in unnecessary resistance 2. I'm glad that you were able to get some sponsorship from iTech for obvious reasion but had that not been the case I would have loved to see a DIY battery or an alernative Oz designed and supported battery due to iTech being overpriced for the quality of their products and providing questionable customer service (I don't expect you to respond to this point). Well done with the clean installation and thanks for sharing. Cheers

[@explorebound]

Appreciate your input mate 🙂 the main reason I flood soldered the andersons was to demonstrate that procedure as I know not everyone has access to a larger crimp tool, but good to know regarding resistance. Hard for me to comment on the iTechworld gear beyond saying that it’s always worked flawlessly for me (I’ve been approached by multiple 12v companies so can easily change if I didn’t trust the products), but sorry to hear regarding the customer service 😕

[@cyclemoto8744]

@@explorebound 👍

[@ianweal3081]

I'm learning too about solder joints & resistance as I thought it would offer the least resistance. Always detested crimp joints, but appears I need to reevaluate my thinking. Simply can't agree though on Itech customer service. All purchases to-date have offered excellent customer service. My brother purchased 2 X 120X batteries also, but just over 12 months 1 failed. I contacted Itech Tec service, quick confirmation of fault, Return Authorisation No. Issued, Australia Post shipping label forwarded, took to post office, $35 fee paid, battery accessed on arrival in Perth, BMS faulty, replaced, battery shipped back to me, and as a hard fault was diagnosed, my bank account received as $35 credit, initial freight reimbursed. Now That's 100% Customer Service right there. Pricing of products, I always purchase during major sales, so I think the value in that situation is good. The only item I've ever paid full price for was a 1420CA Pro lithium cranking battery and they throw in a lithium power bank which has been a brilliant accessory, constantly used to recharge devices, grandkids utilise it to keep devises charged, it's been the most useful freebie anyone has ever offered me. ❤️ My Itech gear, using plenty of it too.

[@cyclemoto8744]

@@ianweal3081 Customer service aside (due to your experience) there are better batteries at a lower cost from other Australian companies and I'm not referring to businesses who resell or rebrand batteries. I have no affiliation to any company. Cheers

[@ianweal3081]

@@cyclemoto8744 yep, I priced many as well and whilst similar capacity could be sourced cheaper non matched Itechs maximum draw, a constant draw or recharge capacity, so at the time there were no better cheaper batteries. Anything offering equivalent draw & recharge were hideously more expensive. I've not researched today's market, I've no need to, I'm set up for many trouble free years currently with Itech gear. When you find a company offering better customer service I'm all ears.

[@poerava]

Thanks for the video. 2000W inverter is a little lacking I’d recommend a 3000W minimum

[@explorebound]

We'll see how it goes on the road - the current induction cooker only uses 1300W but we might end up with other power hungry appliances haha we'll see.

[@poerava]

@@explorebound Nice one. The initial surge of multiple appliances will trip the inbuilt 2000W inverter. The 1300 watt inverter will likely pull more than that initially.

[@poerava]

@@explorebound Your craftspersonship is exceptional bro. Wow

[@TorqHub]

​@@poeravamajority of 2000w inverters have a 4000w inrush rating for 2 seconds, and 2000w constant rating 👌

[@poerava]

@@TorqHub I’ve had a 1200 watt inverter, a 50w fan and a 60w fridge going at the same time and after a few seconds with the inverter stove starting up, it would frequently trip. Maybe that I better is better than my one. Hopefully so.

[@stephenrogers9664]

What a massive upgrade in power compared to your old 120X power. Your doing great with the channel 👍

[@explorebound]

Thanks mate! 🙂 Yeah 400Ah is pretty insane, very intersted to see how it goes on longer trips!

[@itechworld1]

Love it! 💪

[@1993Revhead]

Careful mate. I tech might hire you instead of sponsoring you. haha

[@matthewbrundle4982]

Hi Daniel I have bought similar set up to yours from Itechworld but missing a few items. This is what I have got Item Details Quantity Item Price 1 x iTECH120X PRO Battery Tray $39 1 x iTECH120X PRO 120Ah Lithium Battery $999 1 x 2000W 12v Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter 12V to 240V AC $749 1 x RC1 Intelligent On/Off Remote Control For iTechworld Pure Sine Wave Inverters $49 1 x Solar Extension Cable Anderson to Anderson Connector 10m Kit Solar Panel - 13 AWG Cable $49 1 x Plug and Play DCDC Wiring Kit $79 1 x Control Hub 12V Installation Cable $29 1 x iTechworld 12V Control Hub With 25A DCDC Charger iTECHDCDC25 - Control Hub & iTECHDCDC25 I’m going try watch your video again when installing as have no experience

[@mattkoselowski-wh9vj]

Itech is NOWHERE NEAR THE BEST...... If you HONESTLY believe that, then compare against SAFIERY and VICTRON......

[@gavinfitzgerald668]

Lucky you didn't buy their battery jumper starter, its crap.