Integrating Fixtures into Fusion 360 CAM

As I mentioned in a prior video, I am going to share my process of how to pull a fixture into your Fusion Model for generating CAM that is aware of the fixture to allow for easier integration into your workflow.
00:00 - Intro
00:18 - Inserting Fixture into Model
01:00 - Align Fixture to stock
02:25 - Integrate Fixture into Setup
03:24 - WCS Tip with a Fixture
04:40 - Fixture “Aware” operations
06:35 - Fixture “Avoiding” operations
08:12 - Two sided programs
Please leave a comment and let me know if there are specific Fusion 360 topics you would be interested in seeing a breakdown on.
As always, thanks for watching and subscribe if you like the content.

[@thebridgeninja]

Thank you. Couldn't find anywhere how to avoid fixtures. Thank you for this!

[@martinsmith2948]

this was literally the besth thing ever thank you so much!

[@martinsmith2948]

thank you so much! This is honestly an incredible tutoria!

[@STidrvr]

Such a great help! Even though I had my fixture modeled, I never used it because I couldn't get fusion to stop including the entire fixture in the work envelope. In addition, I also followed NYCNC's video about modeling the stock from years ago, but I also got this weird warning that Fusion would select all models.... It wasn't until this video that it all clicked. What I was doing wrong was not isolating all the components. In the past, I was just selecting the fixtured model and that was it. While watching the video, I selected the fixture model, the part models (this was the missing piece) and the stock model. Boom! It worked, Thanks so much!

[@jamesthompson4062]

This is a great tutorial, thanks for posting.

[@Xezma]

Love the videos. Hard for me to follow bc you move to fast hahaha. How did you get your vise? Thanks man

[@janderson2375]

Great, thanks for sharing. I'd love it if you talked how you create soft jaws and any tips or techniques around those.

[@MKMilling]

I am actually going to be cutting some new stepped jaws for my vise here real soon, I will try and grab some video of it and throw something simple together. Not exactly going to be "soft" jaws, but a lot of the same processes will still apply.

[@janderson2375]

@@MKMilling Haha, for some reason soft jaws are aluminum, which when hit with, isn't very soft. What vise do you have? I assume it fits on your PrintNC and is something low profile. I have a hard time finding a low profile vise for my CNC router setup.

[@MKMilling]

@@janderson2375 Aluminum is still a lot softer than steel, and much easier to machine in custom features if needed. I am using the same vise you can see in this video. Its a random 3 inch machinist vise off Ebay. But I've added additional jaws the the back of the moving jaw so I have just over 7 inches of clamping capacity. Benefit is it keeps the lower profile of the 3 inch vise without having to sink it into my frame.

[@kanoa9321]

Great content, but you should slow down and show what your actually clicking, super hard to follow along.

[@curiouslittledroid1234]

This is very helpful. I didn't know you could carry stock over into a following setup. I guess you need to be very precise when you flip the part over in the vice so it lines up properly for the subsequent machining. How do you practically do that? With dial gauges, indexing pins? Whats the process?

[@MKMilling]

Yeah, it is a very nice feature when you have to cut the same piece in multiple setups, I am working on a three setup part right now and it makes a huge difference. As far as locating the second part, I have gotten my G55 coordinate dialed in right on the corner of my vise jaws, so I can just place a known machined feature into that index in the setup, and then just use gage blocks to get it lined up to that. Other option is to probe some features on the part after flipping.

[@michaelrichards7223]

Helpful, but the critical part that seems to be missing is how to adjust the pucker distance from your modelled fixture. A programmer may run the toolpath to 0.000000001" of the vise jaws, but in practice, you really want a good 0.050" or more just because cutters and jaws are expensive to replace if your toolpath takes 0.001" off the hardened ground jaw.

[@dabonemachinist]

shit .001 off the top of a jaw is how i like to hone my insert edges