Intona USB 2.0 Hi-Speed Isolator (Industrial Version) Impressions

[@HowieHaigh]

An excellent and refreshingly honest approach to a review!

[@josephchia8465]

Thanks for a balanced review and for the eminently sensible relative cost/performance approach.

[@hugodijkstal8888]

excellent review, true audiophile spirit

[@davidnewboult6887]

Nice honest review, as always you pays your money, you take a chance

[@yannick930]

Man you put words on what I felt when using the chord mojo on my main rig hooked up with toslink cable. I heard for the first time the metallic noise of symbals. Sounds in general became realistic. In movies it's scary how good soundtracks are.

[@rendezvous009]

This thing is worth it if you like using your PC playing music, browsing the web, doing productivity or art programs all at the same time. There will always be some cracking sounds like opening some applications in the music. Using this can clean the sound very good. The music also improved there is less harshness in the mids and treble in all the music I listen to after installing this thing. Streaming USB music seemed to sound better than that from the CD player through the coaxial cable.

[@SahinurUK]

Will look into this. Thanks.

[@17cream]

I have a question, how does this compare to output from optical ? In theory no noise via Toslink?

[@asculthouse]

In terms of USB isolation, to connect a DAC to PC via USB would you recommend this or a DDC like Singxer SU-6 for example? Thank you.

[@iiWiReviews]

I tried to get SU-6 in for a review but I didn't manage to get one so far. So I can't really say anything about it before trying it personally. An educated guess would be that SU-6 should do a better job given it does isolation plus few more more things.

[@papapiopiopl5098]

It is a galvanic isolation. This ensures that the usb signal is stripped of all power interference. It really works. It turns any USB source into a high-end source.

[@mangs9940]

Due to certain issues with the usb input on my original DAC, I have come to the conclusion that it is better to use a usb co-axial output device to DAC. Sending digital sound signal and powering a dac from a "laptop" usb , especially a netbook/cheap laptop is potentialy going to create issues. I use a Hecate LT and Douk U2 to send computer digital info to DAC via co-axe. I power the DACs with IFi power. I recommend the Oehlbach co axial cable. I have tested 6 different co-axial cables . This one is the best so far at a price point I am prepared to pay. On a DAC test site, The Modi 3 was recommended as long as the imput you used was co-axial. Co-axial also is able to give more resolution than optical- from my research. Both Hecate Lt and Douk U2 use the xmos U208 chip!

[@giuseppetaddonio2382]

Compliments for review more and more precise, i say mine ... I have obtained excellent results with Raspberry pi4 via USB 3.0 bus dedicated to the topping E30 that i rember is asynchronous dac and with dual linear power supply to the raspberry pi4 and the topping E30. Doing a test is cheap.

[@donpayne1040]

Just bought one. Waiting. Hope its what you describe.

[@iiWiReviews]

I hope it will have as good results as in my system.

[@seanlefebvre438]

Nice review. I definitely have the same audiophile bud and ordered the upgraded version. Curious which cable did you use on your test?

[@iiWiReviews]

Thanks! One of the cables was Intona Premium (if I remember the name correctly) and that one was the best. But I also had several more to play with including few DIY efforts using pure silver wires. We also found out that the cable that goes after the regenerator has greater influence than the one that goes before it.

[@danilovujovic3796]

Hi there. First of all, I'm a fan of your channel. I admire your work 🙌 I had somehow missed this video and I have only seen it now. It's a very intriguing device and what I find unusual is its passive nature: no external power supplies required. Without getting too technical, what I would like to know is, from your memory, how the sound compares in the configuration with a plain RPi4 vs. the one you tested with USB signature HAT vs. your own SPDIF reference Allo DigiOne with Shanti. For the argument sake, the same source material is used and the same DAC. Thanks a lot and keep up the good work 👍

[@glennhobson8623]

I tried hooking one up to my Ayre QB9-DSD running windows 10, but it won't recognize it😕

[@yannick930]

Have you tried audiophile usb cable ? It made also a big difference combine with those type of product

[@iiWiReviews]

Yes I did combine several really good ones and it all makes a difference. I just avoid talking about cables, not ready to publicly open that can of worms. :)

[@yannick930]

@@iiWiReviews I knew some fools couldn't let us share our experience in peace. I understand your reluctance of abording the subject. Keep up the good work.

[@Toki1908]

Hi There are two versions of this 7054 ($240) and 7054-X ($330) Do you know which one you tested?

[@iiWiReviews]

This is with the X or so called industrial version (red accent on USB connectors).

[@joshomassai2483]

Did You tried the device with budget USB cable as well? I wonder if sound quality would be the same without expensive cable.

[@iiWiReviews]

Yes I did, there's always an improvement that device is bringing itself no matter the cable... But yeah, the better the cables around it (we need 2 usb cables), the better everything is in general. That's the part I'm not a big fan of, needing one more USB cable...

[@joshomassai2483]

@@iiWiReviews thank you

[@19janiboy96]

would have liked to see the insisde

[@Toki1908]

You should review SOtM Tx bluetooth regenerator plz

[@Thiago_TS_BR]

Interesting 👍

[@mikelm222]

I wonder if this Intona USB 2.0 would still be better than the most recent iFi iPurifier3 - Would be great to get a comparison review of these two.

[@JasonD-yc3oy]

both are snake oil a waste of money

[@mikelm222]

@@JasonD-yc3oy - I'm a little surprised at your response. I thought it was widely understood that these days that, although "bits is bits" when considering communication between two digital only devices are involved, when decoding digital signals with DACs, the Analogue square waves that carry the digital signal data need to have incredibly accurate timing to avoid the conversion process creating distortion. Noise on the earth or power rails can give rise to digital "Jitter" in the analogue square waves that carry the digital signals and this creates timing errors and create distortion which is clearly audible. Every Audio Designer that designs commercial DACs for use in High Quality Audio understands these issues and the effects are clearly measurable. This is well understood science that audio manufacturers need to take into consideration in order to remain competitive. It really isn't snake oil - it's well understood science.

[@mikelm222]

@@JasonD-yc3oy - UPDATE: Well, I just received the Intona USB 2.0 7054-X. I ordered it around 9am yesterday and it arrived all the way from Germany to UK around 9am the today. It's still running in but already the improvement on SQ is unmissable. The Chain is: Desktop PC, USB to the Intona, USB to Singxer SA-6, I2S to Gustard R26, RCAs to DIY Class A amps. Up until now I have always thought that having a PC as a source was very convenient but caused compromise in SQ. Now I think perhaps any compromised is now largely overcome. Well worth the money. SQ seems better in every way: More clean detail, more natural with a nice sense softness, more coherent sound stage and clarity. If you want best quality from a PC, I think this or something like this is essential.

[@JasonD-yc3oy]

@@mikelm222 "Analogue square waves " - don't exist. "Noise on the earth or power rails can give rise to digital "Jitter" - typical pseudo science bs when trying to sell snake oil craps like this. Amir of Audio Science Review explains very well according to the science/engineering principles

[@mikelm222]

@@JasonD-yc3oy - OK, have it your own way. You can enjoy your hifi and I'll enjoy mine ( But BTW, I use analogue square waves every time I test the performance of an amplifier . . . So I can give you an absolute assurance that they do exist . . . . But in actual fact every single square wave in any piece of digital equipment anywhere in the world, is an analogue waveform that is used to convey digital information - regardless of whether you think they do or don't exist ) Have a good evening 🙂

[@Netherspark0_0]

I'd love if you could review the cheaper iFi iSilencer and see how it compares.

[@xfghffhfg]

This product solving problems (like ground loop) it's not a "conditioner" , If you don't have one (or testing the protection) what are you tasting?

[@DV-fg4pq]

Thank you for your honest impressions on the Intona . No need to justify your hobby. I wonder if / how this is an upgrade compared to the jitterbug that sells for around EUR 50 and what the system is of your friend. Could you clarify what his system is so we get an idea of the differences between both systems ? Maybe the raspberry pi usb output is noisier to start with compared to the output of his desktop? Cheers

[@iiWiReviews]

Thanks! I have never tried the Jitterbug so can't comment on it. My friend's system is mostly DIY concept with a custom made tube preamp, beefy Hiraga amp, and open baffle speakers he made himself. Only branded piece of gear he uses is an Oppo BD player with its great internal DAC. So it's tough to take it as any reference. And you are probably right, R-Pi is known for its noisy USB ports (that's why I'm trying out Allo DigiOne HAT and SPDIF connection these days) .

[@manueljenkin95]

@@iiWiReviews I'd like to know more about your friends setup. Looks cool.

[@LelandPratt-j4k]

Looked this up on Amazon CA, and it’s $700 dollars now! A little too rich for my blood.

[@dungysphincter7974]

cost a few bucks to manufacture but cost several hundreds. Just to clean the USB signal? If the device is made in the U.S.A. I could see it costing $99 as a fair price. I'll pass. If more people pass, they would have to sell for a more reasonable price. I don't think they are flying off the shelves at $300+ cost price. Just buy a Schiit Bifrost 2 at $699 US. You get balanced out and a real nice DAC as well for double the price. It also has an in house implemented USB connection especially created for a clean digital signal without the added line noise from a noisy computer. I appreciate the review all the same....it is an added choice. Also, the reviewer is excellent! Nothing wrong with this review for people that are interested that may not have the funds for better solutions.

[@eddiefreak746]

If you have a better system, then like he said, it doesn't make that much of a difference. But if you have a lower-end system then it cost too much and you should spend your money elsewhere. I can see why it would make a difference on a schiit DAC (their USB implementation sucks) or Pi streamer, but there are better choices out there as well. IanCanada has designed some great isolation stuff for the Pi. Hey, there's an idea! Can you review some stuff for the Pi? Such as the IanCanada isolator or conditioner?

[@chjl1221]

advanced level of audiophilia disease - what´s that? stage 4 on high gain - one will die with (hopefully not from) it?

[@natnut2008]

This product is too expensive for me. Is there a cheaper alternative?

[@papapiopiopl5098]

Topping HS01 is cheaper.

[@papapiopiopl5098]

Topping HS01 costs 69E and does the same thing.

[@jabezhane]

It does nothing you mean?

[@papapiopiopl5098]

@@jabezhane It gives galvanic isolation.

[@jabezhane]

@@papapiopiopl5098 And reverses the polarity of the neutron flow.

[@jabezhane]

Audio Science review have tested several USB 'isolators and cleaners' and found that technically they do next to nothing. USB is pretty robust. It was designed by real engineers with billions of dollars. Not some guys in sheds tinkering around. Any change is probably you wanting to convince yourself your purchase has made a difference. Run em through the analysers guys and prepare to be disappointed.

[@filipsosu]

If you watched the video, you would see, that he didn't bought this item, it was just loan from a friend. So there is no justifying of buying it.

[@jabezhane]

@@filipsosu No...but there is a link to buy it... That isn't what I was getting at though. You buy stuff...you try to convince yourself there is a change. Generally with USB products, there is little you can do to change them at a technical level. www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/intona-usb-3-0-isolator-review.11700/ www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/audioquest-jitterbug-usb-filter-review.10205/ www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/ifi-dc-ipurifier-power-filter-review.10786/ Etc. etc..

[@filipsosu]

I suppose you have some kind of hifi system. Do you hear the difference only when it can be measured? I don't need a permission of anyone, to alow me to hear some difference. Also differences in all sorts of cables are difficult to meassure, but they are easily audible. From my personal experience, systems of people who listen to differences sound better then from those who meassure them.

[@jabezhane]

@@filipsosu As ever YMMV. Caveat Emptor.

[@cccccccc877]

exactly. just think of USB printers and USB 3D printers.