Introduction and Overview of Controls Kubota B7100 HST-D 4x4 Homestead Mini Tractor

Overview and Introduction to all the controls- Kubota B7100 HST-D 4wd diesel tractor
I don't believe you've been properly introduced:
This is my Kubota B7100 HST-D 4x4 Homestead Mini Tractor. I have all of my attachments and extras removed for maintenance right now, so you can see the basic machine that has served as my main workhorse for the last 10 years. Follow me as I explain all the buttons, indicators, levers and pedals that control the tractor in various ways. Learn about this 42 year old Kubota model as we discuss capabilities, and finally go into detail about some of my custom modifications.
In future videos, we will highlight some much needed lighting and wiring upgrades, as well as show you how to do regular yearly maintenance.
Hope you enjoy the video! Any questions, comments, or concerns are greatly appreciated. I'll do my best to keep up with you, and to earn your likes and subscribes.
Subscribe to my channel -- / @abundantlifehomestead...
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#homestead #tractor #4x4 #kubota #kubotatractor #tipsandtricks #howto #machinery #tools

[@donaldsoyars4573]

Thanks ...thinking very seriously about getting one...

[@jamesnicholson4285]

I'd be lost without this video

[@jmichaelbrown6087]

Thanks so much for the Kubota tutorials. I became an accidental B7100 HST owner after marrying into a rural 5 acres (more recently expanded to include another 10 acres) and helping the elderly next door neighbor maintain her property with her Kubota. When she left to live with a daughter on the other side of the USA I bought the tractor. Although I've done some work and repair over the last decade, I really didn't know much about either the tractor or the maintenance needs. Your overview and how-to videos have filled in a lot of gaps in my knowledge. I admit to not having done enough oil changes, hydraulic fluid changes. I learned the hard way that I could overheat the tractor when not cleaning the radiator enough. I also found that clearing blackberry vines could extract cotter pins holding the brush cutter and front loader. I've been stranded in the back acreage more than once. I just moved 84 yards of dirt and have 40 tons of rock for landscaping on order. The front loader is being pushed to the limit. You should do the video on sizing tires. I replaced one front tire with a similar to the other but not identical tire. I know that "fluid" can be placed in the tires but don't yet know how to do it.

[@abundantlifehomestead3100]

Thank you for the kind words and support! Sounds like you have a well loved machine. You can load your tires with fluid via an adapter that screws to the valve stem. Slime makes one that is sold at Tractor Supply, Rural King, etc.. and it costs about $20. You need a fluid that won't freeze and won't corrode your rims. Beet juice is common in big tractors but harder to come by in small quantities. Biodegradable RV antifreeze is a great option that won't kill the plants if you spring a leak. Winter windshield wiper fluid is probably the cheapest viable option, but not as friendly to the greenery. If you use calcium chloride or any similar liquid, consider inner tubes before filling.

[@markemery7741]

Thank you for the video. Just picked up a little newer one with front scoop and a big mower deck for the field. Nice to know all the levers. A couple I had not tried yet. The Toyota of tractors for sure.

[@stevemajerick]

Awesome video!!!! Packed with lots of.good info. BY FAR the best overview of the B7100 that I've seen. Would love a vid on tire selections. Thank you for your outstanding work!!!

[@Liledgy100]

One of the best small tractors ever. I had a 1984 I believe. 6 lug front rims, the newer version. Very simple and dependable

[@abundantlifehomestead3100]

Dependable indeed!

[@dusty1308]

Great video !

[@abundantlifehomestead3100]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@angelcintron2122]

Thank you very much for breaking down and demystifying all the levers and and general operation of this amazing little tractor. Take care and stay safe. God bless you Sir.

[@abundantlifehomestead3100]

Thank you for the kind words and support! If you have any questions about the tractor, feel free to ask and I will always do my best to address them.

[@Bradley-fg9um]

Thank you that was a great overview of the 7100 found some info useful. I found the previous owner of mine didn’t keep the radiator clean and that is why I needed to rebuild the motor. Now that I completed that I look forward to putting it to work slowly at first as I have to do brake in. looking forward to seeing more on your machine.

[@abundantlifehomestead3100]

Glad I could help! Once you get that motor broke in, I think you'll really love the B7100. They can really surprise you in the work they do for their size, all the while just casually sipping the fuel. Thanks for following along! If you haven't already, check out the other videos in this tractor's playlist. Some of them aren't put together the best, but I'm still learning in that department. kzbin.info/aero/PLaSBaXJkkz-3LwlnRvPkxPtj8zl-2o6ry

[@Bradley-fg9um]

I have certainly watched some of your tractor videos and intend to watch more. I’ve also watched some of your corn videos and will get around to other ones. I think a video on the tire arrangement would be a good one. Your doing a fine job on the video’s and I think you will just get better

[@trevermoss997]

Great video looking at my first kubota there selling for around 4k here in midwest Wisconsin some with a couple attachments you made me fell more comfortable in my decision thanks

[@abundantlifehomestead3100]

Glad I could help. You'll love the Kubota b7100.

[@decibelav1037]

Excellent review just brought one of these today , sooooo helpful thank you very much 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻 thanks from UK 🇬🇧

[@abundantlifehomestead3100]

Thank you! Glad I could help. You'll have a lot of fun with your new tractor. These really are amazing little machines.

[@p52893]

You taught me a lot, thank you

[@roseroy64]

Thanks for the information. Just bought one so really interesting. 👍

[@abundantlifehomestead3100]

Thank you for the kind words and support! If you have any questions about the tractor, feel free to ask and I will always do my best to address them.

[@rapiddave9313]

Awesome video! Lots of knowledge.

[@abundantlifehomestead3100]

Thank you for the support. Glad you enjoyed it!

[@earlh936]

Nice video! I wish I had found it sooner, I’ve had to figure a lot out on my own. I have 1979 b7100 manual and have loved it for almost three years now. I replaced my grill with 1/4” hole stainless perf metal after youngest son ran a 4x4 through radiator. I did similar damage to my dad’s allis wd. I’ll look for your wiring video that’s my next project. Outside of power to the starter I have no working lights. Thanks for sharing your experience 👍🏻

[@abundantlifehomestead3100]

I had to jump the line in the video series, but I just posted a video going through all the steps for chasing lighting issues; from checking fuses and grounds to testing wires and switches. It's a little long, but I hope it points you in the right direction. If the link doesn't work, go to my homepage or the Kubota maintenance playlist. kzbin.info/www/bejne/boKrfnqIbbJqeNE

[@richardlesinconnus2299]

Thanks, I bought same machine about 2015 and I still didn't know what all the controls did, that 'cruise control' is all in faded french so I couldn't work out what it was, free'd it all off just in case but never use it. the knob in front of seat got utilised to alternatively power the loader I had fitted (or) lift arms of hitch at rear, good video anyway

[@abundantlifehomestead3100]

Thank you. I had not heard of anyone using the accessory port to operate a loader. I suppose it worked fine though, the port would pump the same gpm as the hydraulic block most loaders pick up from. The "this or that, not both" of the accessory port and routing of the lines might be a little inconvenient, but use what you've got. 👍

[@Canesniffer]

Thank you for teaching me about the grill screen. My radiator is real gummed up and trying to find a solution.

[@abundantlifehomestead3100]

Thank you for your interest and support! I did a video a short time after this about cleaning out my radiator kzbin.info/www/bejne/hnymeqGFlJyNgKs The short of it is that I clean it out with a shop vac, bamboo skewer, and garden hose.

[@richardbritton5280]

Very interesting and informative 👍 🏆🏆👴🐕🚜😎🤠🙏🙏

[@abundantlifehomestead3100]

Glad you think so!

[@ragairboy]

Nice

[@abundantlifehomestead3100]

Thank you.

[@trevermoss997]

Well I found one today a b7100manual transmission with kubota hydro plow runs nice needs a front wheel its wobbly a little bent but it's in good shape other wise runs nice and everything is working starts at 10secs. Cold a little wrenching here and there she'll be good to go 3k

[@abundantlifehomestead3100]

Very nice! That wrenching here and there is just comes with the territory lol. Depending on how bent it is, I've reshaped steel wheels with a 2.5lb cross peen and got them back into acceptable shape. Otherwise, if you got the 4 lug front wheels, my current setup is 12" golf cart wheels that had the same bolt pattern. I just had to grind the hub out a little bit for a perfect fit.

[@brucet5089]

VERY INFORMATIVE , INFO IS ACCURATE AND TO THE BOOK . I'D LIKE TO KNOW MORE ABOUT THE TIRES. KUBOTA CAN'T HELP AT ALL BUT THEY TRIED. ONLY AG. TIRES RING A BELL NOT EVEN TURF TIRES ARE AVAILABLE WITH A PART NUMBER. I WOULD BE INTERESTED I THE WHOLE PROCESS OF ADAPTING RIMS AND TIRES.. YOUR MACHINE IS A GOOD LOOKING PIECE OF EQUIPEMENT ,THANK YOU FROM N.J.

[@johnaffinito1608]

Great video! I'm new to the B7100. I just bought one and your video really helps me! Did you happen to make the tire sizing video? I would be very interested in that one! Thanks, and keep on going with the great, informative videos!

[@abundantlifehomestead3100]

Congratulations on the new tractor! The B7100 is an amazing little machine with capabilities above it's class. It's perfect for small acreage homesteads. I have not gotten to the tire size video yet. The forums and websites I used for information (and bookmarked) a decade ago seem to no longer exist, so I'm working up the formulas the best I can. I think I found a simpler way to calculate sizes for this particular tractor, but I need to make sure all the P's and Q's are in order so I don't give wrong information in the video. If you have any questions or issues with your new tractor, let me know and I'll do my best to address them.

[@richardfish8379]

tks was wondering about tha hyd swich for years still got my old one but mine has a bulls head on the front hood. tks again.

[@ctgriffi3899]

Great introduction to the B7100, thank you very much! Any idea what a reasonable $$$$ range would be for one of these in 2023?

[@abundantlifehomestead3100]

Thank you for your kind support! They don't come up for sale in my area very often, but I think if you can get a bare bones tractor in good condition for less than $3000, you're doing well. A word of caution though, if you don't want just a bare bones tractor, make sure it comes with the accessories you want i.e. Front End Loader, Backhoe, Front Scraper Blade, Cab, Hydraulc Block etc... (Does not include common 3 point attachments) Because, even if you do find the main element you want sold seperately somewhere, you wll almost never (ever) find the sub-frame necessary to mount the accessory, and nobody makes them. I really want a front scraper blade, but I've failed to find a complete setup so many times that I'm starting to think I'll have to buy another B7100 with one already mounted (wich isn't such a bad idea to have 2 ;) ) Any of the 3 big accessories (FEL, Hoe, Blade) are going to add a couple of grand each to the final price. I bought mine around 2012 in original backhoe configuration plus full 3 point setup, plus tiller, cultivator, rear blade, 14" plow and 60" woods mower for $8500. And I had to drive 7 hours one way to get it. Thankfully I already had the 26' equipment trailer to haul it all. Thank you again. Always appreciate any questions or comments you may have.

[@ctgriffi3899]

Excellent information. Much appreciated, and I’ll keep the subframe issue in mind when shopping!

[@jasonixo]

Nice work on the tires- can you share the size and models?

[@abundantlifehomestead3100]

Here's what I found that works great: Rear- Firestone Power Implement 12.5L-15 on original turf rims. Front- Kenda Power Grip 23x8.5-12 on 12x8 golf cart rims with the same 4 bolt lug pattern. I couldn't find any tire sizes that would work for true 4wd with the stock front turf rims. The golf cart rims have the same bolt pattern, but I had to grind quite a bit out of the center to fit the hubs. If you have a B7100 and it's "new style" you'll have 6 lug front rims, and I don't have any info for sizes on them. Thank you for your interest and support! Feel free to get ahold of me with any more questions or comments.

[@blakep1840]

This video was a big help, thank you! I just bought a 1996 b7100 hst-d 4x4 and noticed the only two grease points are on the travel peddle and TO bearing, how would you recommend I grease my pins, rod ends, and linkages? Thank you!!!

[@abundantlifehomestead3100]

My tractor has grease points on each of the 3 pedals, the TO, and on top of the steering knuckles. There were design changes to these over the years so I don't know if yours should have the same. As for the tie rods and steering linkage, they should be sealed ball joints. If you want to try to grease them, get a needle tip for your grease gun (cheap attachment at most automotive or farm stores) and try to get it up under the edge of the boot. If they're still in good shape, there will be a snap ring you need to pull back to get in there: but if they're still in good shape, they probably don't need serviced. Otherwise, I keep a small can of oil handy to lube up all moving parts that don't have a grease point.

[@calebknutson9478]

I would be interested in how you figure out the proper tire sizes for 4x4 if you haven't made a video yet

[@abundantlifehomestead3100]

Calculating correct tire size has been the most common request from viewers. Winter time hit hard before I got to it, but I will do it in the spring. Thank you for your interest and support.

[@terrychristle1477]

Great video, I’ll have to look at my b7100 for model but very similar. I would like to put on a hydraulic top link and am hoping to see the area you pointed out for where the lines go. I’d want for grader and box blade (no pto use). Would I need some kind of control valve? Or what/how a you control the top link after lines run? Thanks

[@abundantlifehomestead3100]

Great question! The auxiliary hydraulic port below the seat diverts flow from the lift arm hydraulics, giving control of the port to the lift arm lever. So, what happens is that you get 3 point lift or aux power, but not both. I don't know, but I assume that turning the knob to engage the aux will release pressure on the lift, so you wouldn't be able to switch back and forth during operation. The best bet in your situation may be to use a pto driven pump to provide hydraulic power to the top link. Or, if you don't have a front end loader, you may be able to provide power through a hydraulic block diverter. Thank you for your interest and support. Feel free to ask any questions and I will always do my best to address them.

[@shawnconway7890]

Excellent video and appreciate the fact that you took the time to explain all the levers etc. I’m looking at buying one of these with the manual transmission. It has 1800 hours on it and comes with FEL and a rear blade. I can get it for 4500 here in Ontario. The paint isn’t faded so it was stored inside. The owner says it need a clutch but will move a little bit. I’m wondering if it can be adjusted some how. It fires right up and the engine sounds good. Everything works as it should so I think for the price I can’t go wrong. Any thoughts? Thank you

[@abundantlifehomestead3100]

I haven't looked much into the manual transmissions, but if it's like most standards, the clutch should have some avaliable adjustment, and be somewhat easily replaced if needed. 4500 is a great price for 1800 hours and an FEL. You can't go wrong there, these machines are designed to run several thousand hours before needing overhaul, and then with sleeved cylinders, any local shop can do the job without draining your life savings. A great resource for Owner's, Service, Workshop, and Parts manuals is Kubotabooks.com Navigate the site to find the type of manual you need, then find your model number and download the pdf. Ask me anything, I'll always help when I can. Thank you for your interest and support, and good luck with your tractor.

[@shawnconway7890]

Ok I’m still on the fence about buying it but you’re absolutely right for the price can’t go wrong. I will check out that site for the manuals. I was worried about it only being 13hp pto but as I’ve seen it yours and others videos that doesn’t seem to slow it down. I’d like to get a 48” brush hog at some point for it. Thanks for all the information and advice and I will let you know what I decide.

[@abundantlifehomestead3100]

I have also put a lot of thought into a 48" brush mower, but after years of learning what engagement the tractor can and can't handle, I think it would do better with a flail mower. Unfortunately, a flail mower sized right for sub-compacts is pretty rare and too expensive for my budget right now. Currently, I do all of my field mowing with an old Woods 60" finish mower with rear discharge. I keep it high, keep it sharp, and have to replace the belts about every year, but it gets the job done.

[@shawnconway7890]

@@abundantlifehomestead3100 ok that’s good to know. Still haven’t pulled the trigger on the tractor yet. The guy is giving me first chance to buy it and is in no rush. Thanks again for all the info and feedback.

[@jamesnicholson4285]

Hello from Buckinghamshire UK, just bought a B7100 and an struggling to find a year mine was made with the serial number. Wondered if you could help. B7100D68616. Cheers

[@abundantlifehomestead3100]

Congratulations on your purchase! The B7100 are great little tractors. According to www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/001/2/7/1271-kubota-b7100.html Your tractor was built in 1980. There are a few places around the web that have attempted to match serial numbers to year, and none of them are thought to be precisely accurate, but they're close enough. Thank you for your interest and support! Feel free to ask any questions and I'll do my best to address them for you.

[@emilymitchell7418]

Thank you for this! I'm a tractor newbie. I have a kubota b7100 that I basically only use to bushhog, but I find if I go through some thick grass it chokes out... happens a lot. Is there a way to fix this? I run the pto in 2nd and the tractor in fastest gear... it's a 4ft bushhog only

[@abundantlifehomestead3100]

Congratulations on your B7100 ownership and welcome to your new tractor obsession. lol. You will find the B7100 is an amazing little tractor that can often work outside it's class, HOWEVER, expecting it to do any amount of field/brush mowing is asking a lot and maybe pushing the limits of the machine. There are a few things that can help mitigate your difficulties here though. (Assuming I don't know any details of your specific setup, take only what applies.) 1. Make sure the brush mower is rated for sub-compact. Size does not always equate to ability. A compact rated 4' mower will be more strenuous on your transmission (and require less effort to bog it down) than a sub-compact rated mower will. 2. Always run equipment at full engine throttle. I've met several people who think it's best to baby the engine or conserve fuel, but these engines were designed for best balance, wear, and longevity running at 3000 rpm (full throttle). Properly worked engines will live a heck of a lot longer than shaking, grunting, overheating engines trying to "take it easy." They will last for thousands of hours and burn only about .3 gal/hr, and they're relatively easy to rebuild when worn out. 3. Run the pto in low gear. Generally speaking, high speed = low torque. High gear on the pto is for a mid-mount finish mower, or rear pto implements that do not engage other materials. Most every mower, tiller, pump etc.. that you will find to fit your tractor will only be rated for, and designed for, the low 640 rpm pto gear. 4. Drive tractor in lower gear. The mower needs time to both chop up and spit out the material. And although the differences are somewhat marginal, lower gear seems to put more torque to the pto than high gear. It is perfectly acceptable to mow in low (turtle) gear with your foot mashed to the floor getting all the speed conditions allow. 5. For much the same reasons, mow in 2wd only (as long as conditions allow). 4wd takes power away from your pto. 6. Mow without the front-end loader attached (if you have one). Buckets are indispensable when we need them, but we don't realize how much power their weight robs until we've run engaging equipment with and without the loader. 7. Keep your mower properly maintained. Well greased pto shaft (and wheel hubs if applicable), good oil in the gearbox (serviced and changed to standard), sharp blades, proper angle and height adjustment, etc... all the little things can make big improvements in power transferred to the material (grass) you're engaging. 8. If all else fails, change how you mow. Use 3/4 or 1/2 instead of full width swipes. Or if it is only certain areas or patches you know will bog you down, come in with the mower raised, and lower it onto the thick stuff. 9. Once you get it down and manageable, consider mowing more often. If you mow twice a year, make it 3 times, and so on. Hopefully at least some of this helps you relieve the frustrations of mowing tall grass with your tractor. Personally, I don't have a brush hog for the B7100. I have an old beat up rear discharge finish mower (designed for lawn only) that I keep set to the highest cut, and I use this for field mowing. I can chop up plots that I let grow for 3-4 years at a time with this, so long as I keep it low (gear) and slow. Ultimately, I would like to get a flail mower for my B7100. I've always thought a flail mower would be better suited to the size and power of the tractor for clearing fields, but I never quite have the funds when one is avaliable. If you made it this far in the long read, thank you for your interest and support. Hope you had a wonderful Christmas. Feel free to comment with any questions you might have, I always do my best to answer.

[@emilymitchell7418]

@@abundantlifehomestead3100 thank you very much for your reply! I will take your advice... I'll rewatch your video to see how to check if it's in 4wd or not... but, I will have to move one tire (it's too close and running into the implement - why one tire is in and the other is set far out I have no idea, I didn't do it! lol) ... but I've never jacked up anything before, let alone a tractor. I don't suppose you have time to do a walk through video on how to safely jack it up and move the wheels out? I hope you had a great Christmas and thank you again!

[@abundantlifehomestead3100]

@emilymitchell7418 Your 4wd lever is on the right hand side (as you sit on the tractor) directly below the gear selector. If the original sticker is still on the fender, it only says "Front Wheel" and has 2 diagrams. The forward (or down) diagram shows the front and rear coupled together (4wd) and the up shows a separation between the front and rear (2wd). It is highly likely that one tire being offset was for pulling a moldboard plow for turning over garden soil. One tire spaced out for stability, one set to ride in the furrow for proper plowing. Setting the wheels on the axle is pretty simple. Make sure you set the parking brake and block the front wheels. Notice on the inner side of the rim, there is a coupler around the axle with a spring loaded bolt head on one side, and a pin running through the assembly. Loosening this bolt before raising the tractor helps a lot. Use a bottle jack (if you have one) to raise the wheel just far enough for the tire to clear the ground. Back the spring loaded bolt out to just shy of removing it. Pull the pin out of the coupler. Push/pull the wheel until the pin hole lines up with the desired slot in the axles. This might get frustrating if you're by yourself. If it has been set in the same position for years, it could take some beating to get it to move, and a second set of eyes really helps to line up the holes when you're moving the tire. Replace pin, tighten bolt at least to where you can rock the tire and get no movement at the coupler. Lower tractor, fully tighten bolt. I apologize, but unfortunately, I probably won't make a video to demonstrate this. My rear tires are fully loaded and weigh over 500lbs each! The last time I had to move one (broke the pin) I had to call a friend to bring his tractor with loader just to move the wheel. A little tip though, I broke one set of pins when my tractor was still on stock tires, and another set after I loaded my current tires. I replaced both pins with grade 8 bolt, nut, washers and haven't had a problem since. If you're moving a wheel anyways, consider the $2 upgrade as preventative maintnence. Feel free to get ahold of me with any other questions or ideas. I'll always do my best to get back with you. Thank you again.

[@emilymitchell7418]

@@abundantlifehomestead3100 you're awesome!!! Thank you so much

[@emilymitchell7418]

@@abundantlifehomestead3100 I have a dumb question... I just installed a pto safety shield as my tractor didn't come with one - is it supposed to/normal to squeak when turning? Mine does turn / doesn't have chains

[@stevevorpe5735]

Traduire en Francais.Mercie

[@gabrielkopp2036]

What do you figure they worth?? I'm in the market for small kabota tractor I have a B7100 and a L185Dt

[@abundantlifehomestead3100]

Really depends on the area you are from. Around here though, a good running B7100 that runs good and is in decent shape will sell for $3-4000, with a loader it's more $5-6000.

[@krismckenna264]

Oh no. I've just put new wheels on and I did just put any one on that fit. What's the math I need

[@abundantlifehomestead3100]

I have been searching for the old math formulas that I used, but the sites no longer seem to exist after a decade. I should have printed them out back then. Trying to find a new source for correct math, but no luck so far. And I want to make darn sure it's right before I publish anything on the matter. Basically, you need the front/back gear ratio and the rolling radius of the tires, and some math magic. For true 4wd, the front tire needs to travel 1-3% (I think) faster than the rear and for front wheel assist only it is 4-5% faster. Don't take that as gospel, it's been a decade since I did it, but the numbers should be close. Test what you already have by running it on dry pavement for a (very) short distance in 4wd. If there's any whining or jerking in the front or rear, your ratios are probably off. Don't try it a second time, you could severely damage the drivetrain. Do the same thing on slick mud or ice. If your rear tires seem to do all of the pushing, then your front tires are probably too small; don't engage the front wheels until correcting. If your tractor failed the pavement test, but the front tires help in the slick, then your front tires are probably too big for 4wd but should be ok for front wheel assist only. In that case, you can engage the front wheels only when on very slick surfaces or stuck in the mud. Hope this helps. Thanks for the support and interest.

[@krismckenna264]

@abundantlifehomestead3100 thanks so much for replying. If you come across the math please make a video!! I actually have a very similar set up to you now. 1988 hst b7100 I call b8g orange Xt1 cub cadet I call my yellow tractor.

[@davidjolley3805]

Where is the engine number?

[@abundantlifehomestead3100]

Engine serial number is on the right hand side of the crankcase, facing up, just to the right of the bleeder valve where fuel enters the injector pump and left of where the throttle links to the governor control. You may have to clean the spot down to the metal, mine is lightly stamped.

[@richardfish8379]

oops so does yours.