I've only been posting videos for about a year, and haven't really reached what would be called "success" on any scale. That being said, I think one of the most important things you can do is pay attention to what your viewers want to see. For my homestead channel, only a small number of viewers like the family aspect, somewhere in the middle is the food growing and production, and the largest group (by far) want to see the tractor videos. [On other channels I've studied, their chickens, or the garden, or the family time are their most popular videos.] So, I won't stop making the less popular videos, or trying new paths, but I will (and do) put more time and effort into the popular tractor videos that my audience wants to see because that's what is going to get my videos onto the feeds of more potential viewers. Second goes along with the first; Interact with viewers. In the age of Ai content, there are still many who want real and personal content. Give non copy/paste replies to their comments, answer their questions, consider their suggestions, and they are more likely to return in the future. Thank you for asking for my input and good luck with your new channel!

@@abundantlifehomestead3100 Thank you so much. You are a nice person and a blessing for the viewers of your channel

Welcome and thank you!

Congratulations on your purchase! The B7100 is a mighty little machine that could serve you well for a lifetime and then some. I'm not a great creator, but I have a ton of videos featuring my tractor, many concerning scheduled maintenance. If you're just starting to get familiar with the tractor, here's an overview of all the controls, knobs, pedals etc. kzbin.info/www/bejne/amLRY6mEmK-Db6M Or you can cruise through my maintenance playlist for areas that might need attention: kzbin.info/aero/PLaSBaXJkkz-33w1AnwkdSDs9Zi0abccue I've owned and used my tractor for over a decade, so if you have any questions, or would like a video on a specific topic, please feel free to reach out to me. Thank you for your interest and support!

Thank you for your input.

Awesome that you have one ready to go! Good battery, fuel, and a clear airway and it should start right up. I would give it a complete service before you run it hard though. The oils and coolant break down over time even when not used.

I don't have the videos you're looking for and I don't know of any who do. For the front-end loader, it is likely dependent on the make/model. At least for the B7100, some loaders run directly off of the tractor hydraulics (mine does) and others have their own independent pump that runs off of the front pulley of the engine. Do you know the make and model of your loader? For the front drive, I do have a video planned, but have not gotten that far yet. If the B7200 is similar enough (and it should be), the procedure is fairly simple. There is a fill plug at the top of the front differential case and at each wheel gear case. Remove these first. Then, the drain plug for each will be the bolt closest to the 6 o'clock position on each of the respective components. You can tell the drain plugs from the other cover bolts in that the plugs will have a brass washer as a gasket. These gaskets will need replaced any time you remove the plugs. Refill each case to the bottom of the fill plug hole with SAE80 gear oil. Thank you for your interest and support. If you have any more questions I'll do my best to address them.

Thank you! Cheers!

@CaptKurt99 Thank you for your feedback and support. I actually broke this series down into several videos to give a closer to real time view of the effort that went into eradicating last year's yellow jacket invasion. You can find all the videos here: kzbin.info/aero/PLaSBaXJkkz-2P8R5H9ZIzAmfBHZxEX5Vv Or just a video where I applied the spray here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nIPXopV4eb-madksi=0HDhEsG6gjz8k3dQ The "too long, didn't watch" version is that I marked the nests during the day then went back out at night to apply the poison. I used approximately half a can on each nest. That was probably too much, but it did it's job well. After killing 14 nests with the spectracide last year, we've seen very few yellow jackets so far this year, and no one has been stung yet.

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Sorry for the lack of contact, “Beryl” has been a real pain in my parts of the piney woods. Went 24 hrs on generator (wife has a medical condition) and generator is way too small for my needs. Still looking for a Kubota similar to yours. Budget is really tight. Grass is too high for my LT 1000. Planning a garden once I find a suitable tractor. Plenty of room for it but lacking the equipment.

It's hard to go wrong with these old b series tractors for small landowners. Keep in mind though, if you want one with a loader or frame mounted backhoe, buy one that has it already installed. These components are difficult to find and almost never include the necessary sub-frame. Also, unlike newer tractors, this Era does not allow for front end loader and belly mowers simultaneously. So if you want a loader (you do), plan on a 3 point mower. I would suggest a rear discharge mower for the tall stuff.

Sounds like it would work great! My glass is fine but the plastic sockets behind the glass have long since crumbled. I think I want to find some 4.5" LEDs to mount in the headlight holes.

My tractor has grease points on each of the 3 pedals, the TO, and on top of the steering knuckles. There were design changes to these over the years so I don't know if yours should have the same. As for the tie rods and steering linkage, they should be sealed ball joints. If you want to try to grease them, get a needle tip for your grease gun (cheap attachment at most automotive or farm stores) and try to get it up under the edge of the boot. If they're still in good shape, there will be a snap ring you need to pull back to get in there: but if they're still in good shape, they probably don't need serviced. Otherwise, I keep a small can of oil handy to lube up all moving parts that don't have a grease point.

These are Firestone Power Implement, and yes they've been perfect for backhoe work, ground engaging implements, and still mowing without tearing up the ground. Be advised: they only fit on the stock turf rear rims, and you have to put different front rims and tires on to use them else you'll tear up your drive train. I still plan on doing a tire video in the near future.

I think with this particular setup, if there were no guides, the tiller would dig too deep and either get stuck or bog the engine down to quitting.

Subsoiler is definitely on my "one of these days" list. At my old house, before moving back to the family homestead, I mixed a few inches of fresh bark mulch from the local sawmill into my soil every year. 15 years later, the people who live there now still say it's the best soil they've ever planted in. I don't have the same local sawmill resources here or I would definitely be doing the same. Thank you for your interest and support!

Thanks for sharing. I haven't really put much thought into a foam air filter!

Any diesel engine that doesn't have an electric lift pump is a pain to prime if you run it dry. Glad I could help!

Glad you enjoyed it

Depending on the soil type, I agree. I made videos both for maximum depth and minimum to fit all needs.

Certainly is. I can't imagine using my tractor less than 50 hours a year, but I'm sure there are some folks out there who don't use theirs as much, and thus don't need to change oil so often. Thanks for watching!

@@abundantlifehomestead3100 I'm skidding some logs once a year for firewood and doing a bit of road grading, that's it.

When I still burned wood, and then when the ash borer decimated our woods, my tractor spent a lot of time skidding. That's where I learned these little machines are surprisingly powerful for their hp and size.

Congratulations on the purchase! Belly mower is a great implement to own and use with these tractors. I'm not sure about the 7200, but the 7100 unfortunately can not have a belly mower and a front end loader (or backhoe) because of the subframe. I instead use a 3 point mower on mine. After +-20 years of sitting in a barn, changing all of your fluids is probably a good idea. Don't forget air and oil filters as well, after such a long sit, they've probably degraded considerably and you don't want the little pieces floating around in your engine. Thank you for your interest and support.

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you! Cheers!

@@abundantlifehomestead3100 I have been following you for a few days. Your video content quality is very good. But I noticed that, due to video optimization problems, the videos are not getting more views and subscribers. You need to fix it. Best wishes

Those are off road LED lights I picked up at Tractor Supply, mounted to round magnets I bought cheap at Harbor Freight. Thank you for the interest and kind words.

You are correct, it's all about knowledge. For the record, the plot I tilled over and over again in most videos was not the same plot I cultivated and planted corn in. For myself, I did it because there was a terrible invasion of morning glory weeds and I wanted to see if aggressive tilling could eradicate them without resulting to chemicals. For others, I assumed that others' would want to know how to adjust such a tiller, as well as what it can and can not do. I hope viewers gain some knowledge from the videos, or at least are inspired to test the performance of their own setups in various ways. For you, there are a couple of shallow tilling videos in my playlist. These are where I tilled the plot I planted in. How to Adjust King Kutter XB-48 Tiller for Shallow Cut Kubota B7100 4x4 Homestead Mini Tractor: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZuzXqKumsSDq5osi=2sh1HNjAHY_LwC42 Why adjust for shallow tilling? King Kutter XB-48 Kubota B7100 4x4 Homestead Mini Tractor: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nXbci2CEj9KaeKssi=rbhwTGpNRQ1XdqtU Hope these help in your endeavors. Thanks for your interest and support!

Exactly what I was going to say about word for word. 😊

I have been searching for the old math formulas that I used, but the sites no longer seem to exist after a decade. I should have printed them out back then. Trying to find a new source for correct math, but no luck so far. And I want to make darn sure it's right before I publish anything on the matter. Basically, you need the front/back gear ratio and the rolling radius of the tires, and some math magic. For true 4wd, the front tire needs to travel 1-3% (I think) faster than the rear and for front wheel assist only it is 4-5% faster. Don't take that as gospel, it's been a decade since I did it, but the numbers should be close. Test what you already have by running it on dry pavement for a (very) short distance in 4wd. If there's any whining or jerking in the front or rear, your ratios are probably off. Don't try it a second time, you could severely damage the drivetrain. Do the same thing on slick mud or ice. If your rear tires seem to do all of the pushing, then your front tires are probably too small; don't engage the front wheels until correcting. If your tractor failed the pavement test, but the front tires help in the slick, then your front tires are probably too big for 4wd but should be ok for front wheel assist only. In that case, you can engage the front wheels only when on very slick surfaces or stuck in the mud. Hope this helps. Thanks for the support and interest.

@abundantlifehomestead3100 thanks so much for replying. If you come across the math please make a video!! I actually have a very similar set up to you now. 1988 hst b7100 I call b8g orange Xt1 cub cadet I call my yellow tractor.

That could be a lot of things... Is it producing black smoke out of the exhaust when bogging down? If so, it's probably something binding in your drivetrain. Try it with and without 4wd; if it only happens in 4wd, then it's probably in the front. If it happens regardless, then it's in the rear. Are you smelling fuel when it bogs down, with no change in exhaust color? If so, then it may be a clogged air filter. Does it produce white (or whiteish blue) smoke? If so, you're burning oil and may have a worn piston or cylinder that shows itself once the engine heats up. If it's none of these, you may have a worn out fuel pump. Try it and see if any of these gets you on track to a diagnosis. Appreciate your interest and support.

Thanks heaps gives me somewhere to start

Thanks for the interest and support! Glad you enjoy the videos. I'll be making several more when I get my health back in order. I used to have a decent workshop I could pull into, out of the wind, and have all my tools handy and available; but Indiana weather took down the 100 yr old barn. I don't mind working outside though. Best wishes and thanks again.

Really depends on the area you are from. Around here though, a good running B7100 that runs good and is in decent shape will sell for $3-4000, with a loader it's more $5-6000.

Sorry It took me so long to get to you, I seemed to have missed your question. The tractor does not have a thermostat (or a water pump) like conventional engines we're used to. It has a thermo-siphon system that uses natural convection of the engine heated and radiator cooled fluid to cause the coolant to flow. Your immediately overheating tractor could be a number of problems- 1. Most obvious would be loose/broken belt or damaged dyno. This would prevent fan from properly cooling the radiator. 2. Dirty/clogged radiator exterior. Probably the most common reason these overheat. It's the big issue I address here. 3. Improper coolant mix. Some owners say they have to run a 2:1 coolant to water mix in these. Mine has always done well with 1:1. A bulb type coolant tester usually costs just a couple of dollars and will tell you the freezing and boiling points of your coolant. 4. Clogged radiator core interior. Because of the nature of the system, you would never know if your radiator is clogged, hot coolant would just immediately come out the overflow until it has reached maximum expansion. A radiator flush/ de-scaling solution may be in order. I did this the first time mine ever overheated. 5. Blown head gasket, warped head, etc.. Hopefully this is not your issue, but in some cases, a failure of the head gasket can allow exhaust gas to seep into the coolant ports, causing quick heating and expansion. If your coolant stays pretty much full, but is really cloudy, look here. If all else fails, look here. Hopefully this gets you going in the right direction. Thank you for your interest and support and sorry for the delay.