Introduction to the Olympus OM10, Video 1 of 2

[@adomthekid]

Thank you for posting this video. I have my late father's OM10 with me while I'm watching so I can get familiar with her. So far it's going great. I have a manual adapter on it but I know how she works. I have been using DSLR's for some time but the whole film process makes me feel warm and fuzzy. it could be the beer though.... Thank's again.

[@DavidHancock]

Adam You're very welcome. Take great photos!

[@stetsondayton4491]

you probably dont care but if you're bored like me atm you can watch pretty much all the new movies on InstaFlixxer. I've been binge watching with my brother these days :)

[@kyriedarwin3703]

@Stetson Dayton definitely, have been using InstaFlixxer for months myself :)

[@janasehly3139]

I don't know why but this comment felt very moving. Hope you're doing okay

[@jonvincentmusic]

Great video. Couple of clarifications. The 'collar' around the shutter button is not a design feature (nor a lock): if you leave the camera switched 'on' it turns itself off in 30 sec to save the batteries. Pressing the collar turns it back on and the LED meter in the viewfinder will re-illuminate. Also this camera does not have through-the-lens flash, so it cannot compensate if your batteries are a bit weak. The second contact in the hotshoe is only for a flash-ready LED in the viewfinder.

[@cameronh338]

Very helpful video. My uncle had one of these just sitting around, from the 80s, and he gave it to me for helping him move. Pretty sure he used it about 2 times, and it's basically like new. It has the manual adapter, and an "Auto Winder 2 (?)" as well as the leather pouch it came with. Looking forward to using it soon!

[@DavidHancock]

Cameron Harris That's a pretty nice kit! The auto winder is a power winder that winds your film automatically for you. That would be really useful to have, but is probably really heavy when it's loaded with batteries.

[@jgoodell77]

I have an OM10 and have taken many of my favorite photographs with this camera.

[@DavidHancock]

Nice!

[@MegaMingoo]

Just picked up one of these and both part 1 and 2 have been extremely helpful. Thanks, David!

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you, Mingoo!

[@jjoong1993]

This video and the references' links you gave were so helpful. Thank you very much!

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@jonvincentmusic]

...just a quick correction: even with the camera set to 'off', the camera will meter correctly, not just fixed 1/60th. 'Off' nukes the viewfinder LEDs

[@wblynch]

I didn’t see it mentioned but for flash you set the camera to Manual and it fixes the shutter speed at 1/60 which is the fastest speed for flash synchronization. Also, if you don’t have the manual adapter, the manual setting gives 1/60th. Just don’t forget to put it back to automatic after you remove the flash.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you! This video pre-dates when I added flash usage to my scripts.

[@robertknight4672]

I bought an om10 is this year and really liked it. I did use flash with it. I bought a hot shoe adapter that has a PC sync port so I could use my sunpak 522 Auto Thyristor Flash.

[@adamh9526]

I just got this thanks for making this video

[@DavidHancock]

Nice find! These are great cameras and I hope you enjoy it a lot.

[@Olof_Rosenius]

Hi! I have the OM10, OM1n, OM2s/p, and OM4. The OM1 have a separate button to lockup the mirror when ever you want. The OM2s/p and the OM4 locks up the mirror directly when you activate the mirror. My absolute favorite is the fully mechanical OM1n with the Zuiko 35mm f2 and next to that the OM4 with amazing features. I have the manual adapter mounted on the OM10 but the OM10 is not my favourite.

[@DavidHancock]

I love the OM-1, too. The shutter sound is just sublime and the camera does everything it needs to. The OM10 is also not my favorite because the manual mode requires the adapter, and I'm not a particular fan of the idea that a shooting mode can be unaccessible if a part is lost.

[@DavidHancock]

Fantastic! I just got my OM2N in the mail this week and I'm looking forward to getting to know it. I have to send it in for a repair before the video, though, because the ISO dial is broken (it turns almost the whole way around and ISO 250 registers correctly when it's set at ISO 12.) So someone broke it at some point, but that's the risk with dirt-cheap used gear. :/ I can tell, from my tests, that I'm going to love that 2N and need more than one Olympus lens.

[@DavidHancock]

I don't agree with the characterization of most lenses having fungus or dirt. It depends on how the lenses were stored and cared for. Most of my lenses are more than 20 years old and only one has any fungus in it. I do like old lenses on DSLRs. I think they tend to render well and some, like the OM lenses, can be sharper than modern lenses. And with the OM lenses, you can still use great cameras like the OM10.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you very much. I was unaware of all of those points.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you. I only had the camera for about 10 days, so I only ha a couple of chances to use it.

[@karinlefevre9988]

At 11:22 the lock thing-a-ma- jig is called the Activator switch. What it does is turn on the light in the view finder after 90 seconds of no activity to conserve battery life. It is on Page 22 of the owners instruction booklet.

[@DavidHancock]

Yup. Thank you.

[@karinlefevre9988]

Sorry I ment to wipe that out after I read a little further on this thread lol! But thanks for posting. No better info on this anywhere.

[@gwhancock]

I thought it was worth mentioning that, due to age, most of the original OM lenses, for what ever reason, seem to have debris or fungus inside the lens. The small amounts in the lens i have doesn't seem to effect image. I have even obtained an adapter ring to use the OM series with my Cannon 60D and the images look amazing ! The adapter with AF confirm built in only seems to work wide open (?) in short, if you get a "dirty" lens for a bargain ya did good ! Im still shooting my OM10, fun !

[@Olof_Rosenius]

Hi, I have seven Olympus OM Zuiko lenses and no one of them has any fungus problem. The only OM lens that suffer from fungus is my Tamron SP 24mm f2.5

[@jonvincentmusic]

Another great video, well done.

[@mysfiring]

(That'll teach me for jumping in writing a comment straight away without reading the ones below it.) One thing that I've always liked about the OM system is the compactness of its lenses. (Or at least they *look* compact.)

[@DavidHancock]

And they're great performers, too. I have yet to be disappointed with an OM lens, even lenses that some other makers don't do so well at.

[@sniperjudofreak]

Canon FDn also has the lens release built into the lens.

[@DavidHancock]

Good point. I always forget about those since most of my FD lenses are the old style.

[@kamilpotato3764]

I just picked one up locally for 55 quid with extra stuff. On the top of 50mm there was a zoom lens with tele converter, eyecup, some manuals. bag, official strap and with other bits and bobs. Camera is nearly mint. Light seals intact, viewfinder and mirror clean(lenses too). It's my first slr. recently bought gx80 too. So will have a fun hopefully with both of them.

[@DavidHancock]

Nice! Good deal on a great first film camera.

[@eugene2155]

thanks! use an OM1 but want to aperture priority camera

[@markharris5771]

Mine does have a memo holder, but it must have been added after it was first bought. It's really important you get your film lined up properly which is the only fault with this little camera once the shutter speed accessory it attached. I believe the new shutter came in with the serial number 2,000,000 so anything with a SN above that is the mkII so to speak.

[@DavidHancock]

I didn't know that about the OM10 having different shutters.

[@markharris5771]

David Hancock They changed the way the cone that the shutter blades face, on one model the cone faces towards the film and the other out towards the lens. I hope my terminology explains it ok, as being a chef with a law degree I obviously don't do technical and I haven't a clue why that would make a difference.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@nialldurcan8440]

The "shutter lock" is a wake button for the meter which falls asleep after a while.

[@DavidHancock]

Niall Durcan That makes sense.

[@soleilaluna]

Hey I took alot of great pics on this camera but I dont know how to get my picturws into my phone . how do i?

[@DavidHancock]

You'll need to send the film to a lab and have them scan the film.

[@lois3356]

on this 50min video do you cover double exposure on the om10 camera? thanks

[@diodash1221]

I just brought this kind of camera, at a thrift shop, it had that manual adapter, and i just want to ask what does this manual adapter do?

[@DavidHancock]

+Dio Dash The manual adapter allows you to shoot in manual mode as well as aperture-priority.

[@jaysnyder7367]

The manual adapter allows you to manually set the shutter speed.

[@adventureguy4119]

mine works all expect the frame counter. when loading I wrapped the spool with the leader then hit the advance twice. new on a 24 frame roll when it hit frame 24 how will i know its the last one

[@Darianka7565]

Haha, it all works nice now xD The thing is that I'm learning to use it and I get panicked when something doesn't go as supposed. Thanks man, for your help!

[@DavidHancock]

You're welcome.

[@palomadelgadillo9463]

What film do you recommend for this camera?

[@daedelusrising]

I like to use Ilford xp2

[@silkfatblues]

Hi! I have the same camera and there is something a bit different going on with it. The one I have triggers the correct exposure even when in OFF mode. I noticed that once I triggered the shutter button with the lens cap on. The mirror was up until I removed the lens cap and exposed the film. So I did some tests and went out to shoot with the camera in OFF mode. All the exposures were correct no matter what aperture I used. The other thing is when the camera is in ON mode the shutter speed displayed inside the viewfinder is shown only for 10-15 seconds and then it turns off. So if you want to see what speed you are shooting at you need to turn the camera off and on again (with a pause od 10 sec) and then the number will display again. Sometimes that can be annoying but the tradeoff is good. This way camera works correctly no matter if it is ON or OFF, you only need to know what aperture you are using and will it bee ok for light situation. Whoever shot Sunny 16 rule knows how easy it is just thinking about the f stop... Usually it would be easy to trigger the camera in OFF mode and have the exposure totally wrong, so this state of camera (modified or whatever) suits me perfectly. Cheers, S

[@DavidHancock]

Interesting. It sounds like your camera may have a faulty on-off switch.

[@silkfatblues]

it is a weird one for sure... oh yes, as it works in off position I expected the battery to die fast but it is almost a year gone by and the battery is alive... so, the switch might be faulty or broken or what ever, but the light meter seems to work just fine in off mode... I will google it, the more I think about it more it seems like it has been tampered with by someone and he did slight modifications to fit his needs... cheers

[@silkfatblues]

woohoo!! thank You sir! I don't have the manual (and I didn't think of downloading it) and every public review lacks that information... thank you!

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you again!

[@thomasmoje5926]

OK I just snagged an Olympus OM10 from an antique shop for the princely sum of $37.50. It has a Zuiko 35-70 mm f/4 zoom lens attached to it. The lens is in impeccable condition..not a mark on it the glass is perfect. Aperture blades work perfectly, zooming and focusing rings operate perfectly. Meter appears to be operating properly because I can point it at various intensity of light sources and the shutter sound changes appropriately. Also if I change the lens aperture the shutter sound changes appropriately. However is the shutter speed diode supposed to indicate the shutter speed in the viewfinder? There is no diode lighting up in the viewfinder to show the shutter speed chosen by the camera..it stays lit on (what I'm assuming) is the low-light/flash required indication at the top of the shutter speed scale at the left hand side of the viewfinder, thus I have no idea of what the shutter speed is. Battery check beeper not working either. Maybe try a fresh battery? Comments? Thanks.

[@DavidHancock]

Have you tested it only indoors? If so, then it would be likely that there is not enough light for the light to show anything but low light. Give it a shot outside if you haven't and see if that changes the results. Older cameras like this are not well suited to indoor lighting.

[@thomasmoje5926]

@@DavidHancock Put fresh batteries in it the 'check battery' beeper is now working but still no indication of shutter speed selection, even outdoors in normal daylight. It's OK though I'll live with it I have enough knowledge of lens apertures vs. corresponding shutter speeds for lighting conditions based on years of experience with a manual-only SLR (Nikon FM) The lens alone is worth what I paid for the camera + lens. Worse comes to worse I'll sell it for a bit of profit but I really like that lens. (how many zoom lenses have a constant maximum aperture throughout the zoom range now?) I'll shoot a roll of film with it and see what happens. Not out a whole lot of money. I'm a camera junkie so it's just a fun toy to play with. Thanks for the advice and happy shooting.

[@doplinger1]

So you can't do shutter priority, but you can manually set aperture and shutter speed with the adapter?

[@DavidHancock]

Correct.

[@victoriamcginness9305]

So helpful, thanks!

[@DavidHancock]

You're very welcome!

[@Andreee73]

I have an OM10, that always worked, but remained off and not used for many years .. I changed the batteries after many years, but when I switch on, nothings happens. Battery not detected .. no oxidation and batteries are new. Mechanical parts are ok. Any idea or suggestions? Thanks

[@DavidHancock]

First thing I'd do is try different batteries just in case. If you bought off-brand, try Duracell. Still no response, clean the battery cap and compartment with 91% rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab to make sure there's no dirt preventing circuit completion. Those includes cleaning the threads on the cap and compartment. Let me know if that doesn't work.

[@1911geek]

near begining of video speaker say "this camera does not have manual..." Correction om-10 does have manual function via adapter switch the lever to manual adapter on ASA dial

[@DavidHancock]

There is an adapter, yes. The camera does not have that function by itself. I would argue that saying the camera can shoot manual with an external adapter is like saying a mirrorless camera can shoot old lenses with different mounts because it can use adapters.

[@deejayy2k]

is the all black OM10 a later model i picked mine up second hand it also has a clock on the back cover

[@DavidHancock]

That's on OM10 Quartz. It's the same but with a data back built in. They're good cameras, somewhat uncommon. I've seen two in the last year, but compared to the 40-ish standard OM10 bodies, two isn't many.

[@baltazarsanchez7487]

Wait, but how are you supposed to load batteries, and what type of batteries do you use?

[@DavidHancock]

Video 2 shows the usability including batteries, changing lenses, loading film, etc.

[@ace_virtex8786]

I have this camera but it doesn't turn off unless I take the batteries out any help on that

[@DavidHancock]

The meter stays on and there are LEDs that stay lit in the viewfinder all the time?

[@marcelocampoamor4761]

Hi David, are you sure the om-10 only uses 1/60 when the switch is off? I understand that the camera measures the OTF light even off, that the difference is that it goes into automatic mode but does not show the shutter chosen in the viewfinder, but consuming less battery.

[@DavidHancock]

It's been so long since I used one of these that I can't recall for sure what I said. I believe that I was referring to the auto-manual switch, but I don't recall for sure. I'd say defer to the manual on that. I hate to punt like that, but I honestly haven't shot with one of these since about a week after this video was uploaded.

[@marcelocampoamor4761]

@@DavidHancock Sorry I didn't realize when the video was uploaded. I only remembered when I used the first roll with the OM-10 here in Scandinavia it was late winter and then I used a 1600 ASA film but I finished using it in the spring when there was already a lot of light. And it happened to me several times to forget the switch off when I took a photo and normally with that film sensitivity it was 1/500 the whole time and yet the photos did not come out overexposed so I remembered.

[@Darianka7565]

Excuse me, I got a question. How to know if the lens has fungus when you are about to but it? I dont know much about analogue cameras but I am getting this one. Please help!!

[@DavidHancock]

Analog lenses show fungus the same as digital-era lenses. It looks like threads or cotton or spider webs in a lens. Here's a link to some images: www.google.com/search?q=lens+fungus&safe=off&rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS469US469&espv=210&es_sm=122&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=rsErU6zoGNfEoATopYHwAQ&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ&biw=2133&bih=1072&dpr=0.9 If you're going to buy it off eBay, then the seller should be clear in his or her listing that there is no fungus, haze, or dirt. There are other issues that should be avoided, too. In order of worst to least-worst, as I see them (assuming a lens is otherwise fine): - haze or cloudiness - excessive scratching (cleaning marks) on the elements - fungus - coating delamination - small dirt specs (not typically any sort of issue) Those are only issues that affect the glass. Issues with function are a separate subject. I've had some lenses with fungus and fungus does not necessarily make a lens soft. Haze or cloudiness will. In fact, some of my lenses with fungus were my sharpest. I strongly recommend avoided lenses with fungus, however, because fungus can grow and get worse. All the lenses in the world have fungus spores on them. It grows and eats the coatings when stores improperly (e.g., inside a plastic bag or box). If you are buying the lens at a store or in person on Craig's List, bring a light with you that has an INCANDESCENT bulb (flashlight is okay) or LED (cell phone light can be okay.) Some fungus is invisible in fluorescent light. If you have a window with good daylight, you can use daylight, too. Hold the lens to the light source and move it around. That way you can see how the light reflects off internal flaws. Actually, this would be a good video. When I have my next recording day, I'll do a video showing how to find fungus and issues within a lens. If your lens glass has a few dirt flecks (even seemingly large ones) then it will be okay. Many lenses leave the factory like that. If the glass has bubbles in it (not common) then the glass is probably EXCELLENT. Bubbles form when the glass is made very well and in fact some of the best lens brands in the world are known for their glass having bubbles. I hope that helps. Let me know if you have other questions.

[@lydia4058]

hey David, great video! super helpful! I have this camera aswell, but somehow I have tightened the battery chamber too tight and now I can't open it!! do you know how I could fix this problem?

[@DavidHancock]

Lydia Wareham Thank you and here are a few tricks. but first, when you put the chamber cover on, did it go on easily or with difficulty? If it's the latter, it may be cross threaded and not jammed, and cross threading could be more problematic. In either case, it will take some real muscle power. You'll need a coin that seats in the groove perfectly (a nickel may be the best option.) Rest the camera on something a little soft, like a sock, to protect it, and hold it with the top of the camera on a counter (you'll need it not to move away from you for the next step.) Push the battery chamber as you turn it. Having the camera's body on a fixed counter will give you better grip and resistance. If it doesn't come off that way, pick up an aerosol can of canned air. When you turn it upside-down, cold compressed liquid tetrafluorocyclene comes out. This can give you frostbite so be careful. Spray the battery chamber cap and area of the base immediately around it until a frost appears (about four or five seconds.) Let it sit a few seconds. The cold will cause the metal parts to contract, giving you a bit of a gap between the threads. Then try to unscrew the cap. If neither of those options work, let me know. The next step is to have it drilled with spanner wrench holes, which is a tricky operation and requires a couple of special tools, too.

[@efreinshtick]

I had the same issue, I used a wide thick flathead screwdriver. I pressed slightly and when I turned the screwdriver, the chamber turned.

[@catey62]

I'm looking at one of these online near where I live but having done a bit of research now I'm a little hesitant. I shoot film camera's, medium format, ( Mamiya's and Yashica's ) and they are all completely manual which I like as you can set the aperture and the shutter speed and either set it to over or underexpose to achieve what results youré after..is this still possible with the OM10 only being an aperture priority camera? and if it is how do you know what the shutter speed will be for any given type of shot you take?

[@DavidHancock]

+catey62 It's been a couple of years since I used an OM-10, but the second video shows the view through the viewfinder and how to read the light meter. There is a manual attachment that can make this an all-manual camera. That said, for a few extra dollars you can get an OM-2N or OMG, both of which are big steps up from the OM-10 and both of which are also worth the upgrade fee.

[@bernardosousa5010]

Hi! I really like to now some information about the second generation of shutter mechanism, is any away to know through the serial number or other reference in the camera? If someone can help I really appreciate.

[@DavidHancock]

If so, I haven't found it. If you do, let me know!

[@ljliljohn]

I just bought an OM10 with the FC manual adapter, which I will use in manual mode, for $5 with a Zuiko 50mm 1.8 lens and the FC adapter. How can I be certain that I am in manual adapter mode, since I can't figure out how to move the 'mode' ring, and I am not sure if the 'mode ring' is properly set now. Also, I will be using my flash in the hot shoe and so I need to know what the flash sync speed is while in the manual mode. Thanx in advance for any help you can give me. Film forever!!

[@DavidHancock]

So take a look at the black dial on top of your camera and there's three indicators -- manual, B, and auto (I think). There's a little switch at the base that you can move and that adjusts a white dot that will be next to the mode indicators (e.g., bulb). When the white box is next to Man., then you're using the manual adapter.

[@ljliljohn]

Thank you sir. What I finally did, after tearing up a couple of fingernails, was hold back the film advance lever which gave me a little working room to use a little spatula, like something you would use to spread jam on toast, to move the ring. Still looking for the flash sync setting. Thanx again. ljliljohn.

[@vladiline93]

Hi David! I was wondering if by any chance I could find out my OM 10's production date by looking on the back of the film pressure plate like you can do with the olympus trip, and if so, how to interpret it? Thanks!

[@DavidHancock]

not to my knowledge and a few Internet searches yielded no results on OM 10 age code dating. When I get home I'll grab my OM-2N and OMG and see if the pressure plates are removable and if there's a code.

[@vladiline93]

David Hancock Thank you! As I fiddled with my OM 10 for a little bit right now, it seems the pressure plate is indeed very easily removable without damaging the actual door, and there is a 4 digit/letter code on it's back. yaay! just gotta find out how to interpret it now

[@DavidHancock]

vladiline93 Ah. I just tried my OMG and also have a code. Well, this is a new one to me and I really can't find anything about it. If the code system is the same as was used for the Trip (I don't see why not), then mine E2Y would have been made in factory E in November 1982. Mine also has an upside-down 4, and I'm not sure what that means. I've asked some friends who know more about Olympus than I do and if they have additional information, I'll let you know.

[@vladiline93]

ah, thanks! the code on mine is Q2Z and then gigantic 4, so I guess that would be factory Q, december '82, pretty exciting! loving my OM 10 too!

[@kaylarobertson6611]

Hi. Do you have any idea how to shoot multiple exposures in the OM10. I know it's possible, but can't find clear, simple instructions.

[@DavidHancock]

+Kayla Robertson There are no clear and simple instructions. Basically, it's really difficult. You need to take the first shot, activate the film rewind, hold it in place (as well as the film take up spool knob) and then advance the film. It's really hard to do that with an Olympus and prevent registration issues. Then you take the second image. Afterward, you need to put the lens cap on and take a dead frame as the film doesn't start advancing right away after re-engaging the mechanism. If you don't take a dead frame, you'll end up with your next frame overlapping your double exposure.

[@kaylarobertson6611]

+David Hancock Thank you. I hoped it would be simpler.

[@Megabean]

Back when Olympus was a real camera brand.

[@gibor4975]

+CreativeType yeah. im a big fan of olympus & zuiko. but not with today's generation of MFT. it's just dumb. hope they produce at least APSC with the OM1-like body in the future :)

[@Megabean]

eBase Yeah I agree, I do however like the NEX cameras. I know they have many negatives but they are just all round great cameras. I use mine whenever I don't like carrying the DSLR around.

[@Darianka7565]

What are the batteries that it uses? LR 44???

[@DavidHancock]

Yes. Two of them.

[@Darianka7565]

Hi. Excuse me... I just got the camera but I don't know if it works properly of course. It's in good shape and all but I put the batteries in and at first, the Red light went on but no beep. And then it didn't turn on again, and the batteries are new. Help please!!!

[@DavidHancock]

Did the shutter cycle when you pushed the shutter button? If not or if it stopped part way through, then the camera doesn't think it has power. If it does cycle all the way through, then there's some oddness with the battery check. Here are a few low-impact troubleshooting ideas: Try setting the dial to off and then checking again. (I'm assuming you did that and nothing happened.) Make sure the batteries are seated in the correct alignment. If a capacitor in it had a little power still, then it might have gone through that (the red light) but not been able to get more from the batteries.) Try removing and re-seating the batteries. Clean both sides with a cloth or your shirt before re-loading them. When you do that, check the contacts inside the battery chamber and make sure they're clean and corrosion-free. If all that fails to have a result, try new batteries. It's possible that the ones you got were dead. I picked up a 100-pack of LR44 batteries a few years ago. fully 40 of them had no charge (but that was okay all 100 cost as much as three normally do) so I don't have tons of faith that button cell batteries hold a charge when packaged or on a shelf for a long time. Let me know if those help or if they don't.

[@Darianka7565]

David Hancock hi again. Thanks.for your help but it doesn't work, the light hasn't gone on =( maybe I indeed need to try buying other batteries. Now I got another problem.. I was playing with the speeds and then I chose self timer, then pressed the shutter and it all got stuck, the mirror is up and won't come down. What should I do?

[@candiceaguilar8312]

Hello, will the battery being out cause the film advance lever to be stuck?

[@DavidHancock]

Yes, it could. The shutter has to actuate before the film can be advanced and the shutter won't actuate without a battery.

[@candiceaguilar8312]

Thanks so much I was a little worried since I bought the camera on ebay but I will get a battery in it and try it out!

[@laurasolinova3160]

Hello, please, which kind of lens mount have this camera? :)

[@DavidHancock]

Olympus OM.

[@gracem9952]

Hi I had a quick question. So I've been shooting most of my pictures with a depth of field of 4 on my 50mm lens, and haven't developed anything yet! What would you recommend as the perfect setting? I'm new to photography and film cameras, and was curious about the differences. Thanks!

[@DavidHancock]

Definitely get through your first roll and see how it looks (there will probably be lots of problems, there always are with everyone's first roll.) If you're keeping the aperture at f/4, make sure that you're in auto mode so that your shutter speed is correct. If you have the manual adapter and have a fixed shutter speed and keep the aperture at 4, some photos will be way overexposed (near-black negatives), some will be way underexposed (near-clear negatives), and very few will be properly exposed. After you finish your first roll, give your next roll a shot on auto and try different apertures. Especially try different apertures for the same photos. What I mean there is take a photo of a friend, pet, or whatever and try it from f/1.8 to f/16 at each aperture ring click. You'll take a bunch of photos of the same thing, sure, but that will help you see how aperture affects the image. That should put you on a good path for learning how film works.

[@gracem9952]

Thanks for the advice!

[@condoleoncomposition6882]

Hey David! Quick Question for you; i'm debating between an OM10 or Minolta Srt 101b. Which do you prefer shooting on? I know they are two different animals but i really respect and value your opinion.

[@DavidHancock]

That's tough. They are two very different cameras. The OM10 is lighter and has auto mode, but no manual mode without the adapter. It also has electronics which are starting to age poorly. The SRT has manual mode but they are a LOT heavier and they use, I think, the old mercury batteries for which you'd need an adapter or camera modification. Are you invested in either system (Minolta SR [sometimes called MD or MC] mount or Olympus OM) mount? If so, stick with that. If not, I'd say pick one that does not overlap camera capabilities that you already have. So if you have a fully manual camera, then the SRT does nothing for you. But if you only have automatic cameras, then the OM10 doesn't do a whole lot for you.

[@condoleoncomposition6882]

David Hancock thanks for your advice! No I'm not invested in either yet, I have yet to buy a new camera. What would you recommend? Right now I have my Pentax beginner k1000, and I like the way that works and feels

[@DavidHancock]

Go with the OM10. The SRT is basically the same as your K1000 and won't give you anything new. Alternately, instead of going outside of the Pentax system, pick up an ME Super, which is the Pentax equivalent of the OM10, and you can save a few dollars and pick up another Pentax lens.

[@condoleoncomposition6882]

David Hancock thanks David!

[@courtneyr5473]

Hey David. I just got this model and I'm not sure if its working. When I take photos, the frame numbers do not advance. Its stuck on 2. Does this for sure mean I'm not getting any photos? When I look through the lens the shutter is for sure moving. I am looking forward to your thoughts.

[@courtneyr5473]

Hi David. Also, the knob on the top rotates when I take a photo even when the camera is off. Does this sound like a problem to you??

[@DavidHancock]

Sounds like the frame counter might be stuck, which can happen if the camera took a fall at some point. If the rewind knob is turning, then the film is definitely advancing, even if the counter isn't working.

[@courtneyr5473]

@@DavidHancock Thank you so much for the response :)

[@jessycool78]

Hi! I'm completely new to all this and hoping to buy my first film camera. I've looked at a few, and have narrowed it down to probably Pentax ME super, Olympus OM10 and Canon AV-1. Was wondering if you had any recommendations/ opinion? The Olympus is the cheapest, but I know people take issue with the lack of manual shutter control. I'm looking for something I can learn with, but also can get a bit more out of when I get better. I know many recommend the Canon AE-1 Program, but it's become really expensive so was trying to find different options. Thanks in advance for any help you can offer, if you see this! :)

[@dc1283]

Go for the Olympus om10 with a manual adaptor to control shutter speed,the metering system is good and the lenses are of the best quality

[@DavidHancock]

Of those three, I'd rank them the OM10, ME Super, and AV-1 in that order. The ME Super and OM10 are basically neck and neck. The AV-1 is a very good Canon A series but it is very limiting. I'd also look for an OM10 with the manual shutter speed adapter. Regardless of what you get, try and make sure that you by from a seller who will replace the light seals before you buy it.

[@jessycool78]

@@DavidHancock Amazing, thanks so much- from my vague research I'd thought that would be my order of preference anyway, and have found an OM10 with adapter which I'll hopefully manage to get, so fingers crossed! And thanks again for the really helpful video and comment:)

[@jessycool78]

@@dc1283 Thanks very much, I've been keeping my eyes peeled on eBay for OM10s that aren't too expensive the last few days so am sure I will manage to get one sooner or later. really appreciate you taking the time to reply, thanks :)

[@dc1283]

@@jessycool78 All the best.....

[@Darianka7565]

Really appreciated!!! Thank you =)

[@elijahtrujillo2280]

What if I am using film with 400 ISO and I set the ISO on the camera to something otherwise?

[@DavidHancock]

Elijah Trujillo If you take it to a corner pharmacy to develop, not much. Your photos will come out either over- or under-exposed. If you left the ISO at 100 on accident, they'll be two stops over-exposed. If you left it at 800, they'll be one stop under-exposed. If you develop at home, you can either push or pull the film, as needed, to get a proper development. If you use color film, you can send it to a photo lab and ask them to push or pull it, as needed. A good photo lab can do that but it might cost a couple dollars more.

[@elijahtrujillo2280]

Got it! I just got my photos back from being developed at a factory and they came out looking great. Thank you for the help and reply!

[@DavidHancock]

Elijah Trujillo Fantastic! That's good to hear. Keep taking great photos!

[@eugene2155]

David, which OM is your favorite?

[@DavidHancock]

Of the ones I've used, the OM-2N. The OMG is a very close second. I did not really care for the OM-10.

[@46thandBliss]

do you know what size cable release works with this camera? I can't find that info anywhere

[@DavidHancock]

There's only one size standard for that so any threaded cable release will work.

[@46thandBliss]

@@DavidHancock oh okay. I saw one on amazon that should screw in but 3 different lengths were listed.. 40 70 and 100cm

[@DavidHancock]

@@46thandBliss Got it. That's the cable length. So to that end it's just a matter of how far away you want to be and how much of a mess you want the cable to be. Anything loner than 40cm is definitely overkill. I tend to prefer them in the

[@46thandBliss]

@@DavidHancock ohhh thank you! I found it a little confusing. and thanks for making these 2 videos. I have a feeling I will be referring back to them again and again

[@stefszkutnik]

Here is the manuel download www.olympusamerica.com/files/oima_cckb/Oly_om10.pdf

[@DavidHancock]

***** Thank you!! I added it to the video description, too. Good find.

[@shhhsg]

I need help! My omlympus OM10 won't turn on :c even I changed the batteries

[@DavidHancock]

Check that the new batteries are fresh and installed properly. I thought my Nikon F3 had died for about three months because I kept putting the batteries in upside-down.

[@shhhsg]

The new batteries are good. I don't know what happened to my camera.

[@TheIcebomber]

Your voice reminds me of Phil Colin's

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you. I've always enjoyed Phil Collins music.

[@clintonr9804]

Sorry, but you're just guessing, and getting much wrong.

[@DavidHancock]

Feel free to point out all my errors.

[@urwholefamilydied]

oh my god, please take that "passed" sticker off. I think that was some dumb government shit that was mandatory back in the day... never meant to be kept on except for idiots who don't give a shit if there's random stickers on their nice equipment. Sorry, that's a big pet peeve of mine. Don't understand why that doesn't bug people. Could you imagine buying a leica and leaving stickers on it? I don't think so.

[@DavidHancock]

***** I'm not a huge fan of them, and used to take them off. Doing that, if the camera is in mint condition, reduces the value greatly, I'm told. Someday, if I have a camera in mint condition, I may need to evaluate the no-sticker idea. Anyway, the stickers come from the bad reputation Japanese cameras had in the 1950s. Think Chinese optics today and you get the idea. So Japan instituted a mandatory QC program for exports, like cameras, to ensure quality and bolster consumer confidence. And it works well enough that cameras were able to stop their participation in the program. The stickers are a big deal today because, for most cameras, it's the only way to tell what year they were made,