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After spending several days in Baghdad and exploring the ancient city of Babylon, my next stop was the city of Najaf. This city is the holiest city in Iraq, and it’s the location of the shrine of a ruler who was also a cousin of the prophet Mohammed!
Najaf also lies along the pilgrimage route to the city of Karbala, so the people passing through get fed free food and water. I met some guys cooking a massive vat of chicken biryani. They gave me some hakaka, which is the crispy rice at the bottom of the biryani vat! I loved the ghee in it.
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The chicken biryani was full of flavor and had a nice mix of ghee, chicken, raisins, and crispy onions. It was so good! The experience was incredible and a wonderful thing to experience!
Then, we started making our way to the Grand Bazaar and the shrine! Along the way, there were thousands of people making their way through the streets.
In the bazaar, we passed jewelry and turban shops, including old and rings. Then, we found a sweet made from flour, ghee, walnuts, and sugar with a layer of cream in the middle called Daheen. It’s an invention from Najaf and you can’t find it anywhere else! They also had one without walnuts.
It was really sweet! The one with walnuts was nutty and creamy, and I loved it. The buffalo cream was so good, but so sugary!
Further on in the market was a man carving a large heart of a palm tree. It was so tasty and moist, and a little sweet! My second piece was a little dry and bitter, though.
Then, we found a shop selling handmade Iraqi turbans. I wanted to buy a couple of different ones! I took off my shoes and entered the shop. I wanted a black one, and Tasos got a blue, red, and purple one.
We sat down and the owner wrapped the turbans around our heads. He was so friendly and hospitable. I loved it! We looked like locals!
Further on, we met some guys from Iran and stopped inside a jewelry shop selling prayer beads. The guys inside were so nice! We also found a fabric shop where everything is sewed by hand. Their sheep hair fabric took 2 months to make by hand and costs $500! It feels very different from the artificial version!
We made it to the shrine. The entire area around it was packed! [INSERT SHRINE INFO]
Toward the end of the bazaar, we stopped in a shop selling what is thought of as some of the best daheen in the city. It looked a little different from the one from earlier. It looked crumbly, crispy, and sticky. This one wasn’t creamy and didn’t have walnuts.
It was also less sweet than the ones from earlier. The flavor reminded me of a less sweet version of baklava. What a way to end our night in the Grand Bazaar in Najaf, Iraq!
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About Me:
My name is David Hoffmann. Since starting David’s Been Here in 2008, I have traveled to over 1,300 destinations in 94 countries to experience and document unique cultures on my KZbin channel, travel blog, and social media.
I highlight culture and historical sites, but my passion is food! I love to experience and showcase the different flavors each destination has to offer, from casual street food to gourmet restaurant dining.
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