Irritating Intermittent 'F2' Error on £350 DYSON FAN - Can I FIX it?

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In this video I attempt to fix an irritating fault on these AM07 Dyson Fans. It keeps coming up with a F2 error code and fails to blow any air. Oscillation still works and many people say online it is a problem with the motor. Let's see if we can work out what is causing this issue.
Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things. I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things, so I hope that comes across in these videos.
Many thanks, Vince.

[@bones1225]

Hi V. It is used to stop something from happening at a critical moment. Temperature wanted 10 degrees, nothing will happen between the range say 7 and 14 degrees (hysteresis), thus stopping something from turning on and off continuously and maybe burning out the motor or element. The way I remember this chip, is comparing it to a bow. The difference in the amount of pull ,say temperature sensor, will not send the data,ie arrow, until your shoulder can’t go back any further. Whether you pull, halfway or say three quarters, nothing will happen in that range whilst you are aiming. Perfect for temperature sensing to send data (arrow) on to a comparator, do some calculations and then activate /deactivate a load , for example,a relay or to fault code leds. The reason why I remember it like this, is because the hysteresis graph looks like a bow, when plotting rise time versus fall time. Hope this helps.

[@BuyitFixit]

Good Job Vince 👍From what I remember when I looked at the one I have those 74HC14's take the signals from the hall effect sensors on the motor (if you look at the two motor connectors, the smaller connector is the hall effects sensor outputs and GND , 5V). I think the chip may take an analogue output from the hall effects and shape it into a more digital signal which is then sent to the microcontroller. Well done on mentioning about the floating non isolated power 😉👍

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks Mick, it's been working everytime since. Do you think the corrosion on the chip was to blame for the intermittent F2 error?

[@RobTaylor-HiTech]

Good afternoon Vince, great video. So a few points, first the motor. That's obviously a brushless motor and likely has the equivalent of a stepper motor or ESC circuit on the board. Could that chip be part of it, could but without some circuit tracing we won't know. I don't think the chip is a Schmitt trigger though unless the 74 was wiped off of it somehow. The 7414 or 74HC14 (cmos version) is a very famous old chip of the TTL variety and all are known as the 74 series chips because they all start with 74. The concept of a Schmitt trigger is that it takes a ttl input 0 or 1 where the voltage may be all over the place due to noise, and it cleans it up to full TTL levels. Internally it has a crossing level usually somewhere in the middle of the voltage range. If the input is higher than that level the output is high, if below its low. So that way it creates a full on, full off output from an input that may not be quite up to specs. These are normally used where you have some sensing voltage such as a button or similar that may be noisy. They toss a capacitor across the voltage to smooth it and then add a Schmitt trigger to bring it to spec.

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks for the explanation Rob👍👍👍

[@samuelfielder]

I think after the heating worked I'd have tried freezing the cap. And then tried tapping the cap (and other parts around it) with a plastic stick. A Schmitt trigger is a unbiquitous part, try googling it. Yours was an inverting one so if you put 0v into it, its output would be logic 1. If you then slowly raise the input voltage, at a certain point, say V1, the output will switch to logic 0. If you then slowly lower the input voltage, the output does not immediately switch back to 1. You have to lower the input to say V2 (V2 < V1) before it switches back. The difference V1-V2 is the hysteresis.

[@Stefan_Van_pellicom]

Well explained!

[@MikeB_UK]

Can I suggest that if heat seems to alter something intermittent that you buy a can of 'freezer spray' and also chill the component to see if that makes something fail. TV repair men back in CRT days would do this all the time. Cooling then testing modern stuff is much more safe to do than heating things up and trying them as hot semiconductors and chips can end up with thermal runaway causing them to fail. Modern electronics just doesn't like to be hot, but cold is fine. One way to rule out an electrolytic capacitor with heat is put your soldering iron on the metal top - that way you only heat up that one component. Animal urine is acidic, so if any had been left it would slowly eat away at things. Ultrasonic cleaning bath is the way when something has peed on electronics! Hope some of this is of use. Great video. Intermittent faults are repair nightmares!

[@Tokaisho1]

Remember Vince that you can cool components as well as heating them, using isopropyl alcohol evaporating, or canned air, Maplin also used to sell a canned product specifically for diagnosing and freezing chips

[@Tokaisho1]

@@anthonyg4671 It works as when materials cool, they contract, when heated they expand, this can show up an issue within a chip or a bad solder joint.

[@beautifulsmall]

Maplin ! long gone. great shop. Nothing like it left in the UK.

[@beautifulsmall]

@@anthonyg4671 Ive seen CMOS chips go short but when freezer sprayed they will not conduct so the rest of the circuit can work and you can home in.

[@ralphj4012]

Can also be a safer approach. Ambersil freezer spray still available from Rapid et al. Found many sensitive heat / cool issues in IC's and other components, especially in TVs.

[@anthonydenn4345]

Yes, turning a can of compressed air upside down when spraying it, creates a freezer can effect.

[@sdjmchattie]

Hysteresis is an attribute like your room thermostat has. Instead of turning on and off the heating at 20 degrees, it is set up to turn on at 19.8 and off at 20.2. Otherwise when the temperature is exactly 20 degrees, the boiler would flick on and off like crazy. The hysteresis gives a dead spot around the set temperature to make sure the on or off action is decisive.

[@TheCod3r]

Vince repairs a fan? That's so cool

[@Mark_C1]

Well, that comment blows 😂

[@travisash8180]

F2 on a Dyson fan means that the motor is covered in dog wee.

[@TheCod3r]

​@@Mark_C1haha got 'em

[@merlin5476]

Cool fix dude👍. I still have my grandparents old fan from around 1950's & it still works beautifully.

[@chrisrobson8540]

i'm rocking an old hitachi that my dad "liberated" whilst working in libya in the 80s - "a from the colonel" as he described it......a liitle battered and bruised but still works perfectly

[@WOFFY-qc9te]

1950's fan... like the one I would chop carrots with as a one does at 6 yrs and bored stiff. Hang on to that it is better than this modern junk and is worth a tidy penny on eBay. . I am on the hunt for a Ko Yo kerosene powered stirling fan like the ones we shipped to India in the 1920's .......

[@regnoice3752]

Great fix vince saving another item from going in the bin and helping the planet again love your videos they are always amazing to watch and the process you go through you are my favourite u tube fixer always giving such informative advice.

[@dahger7]

Your intro is so fantastic! Never change it. It is so you.

[@mrjsv4935]

Nice fix. Indeed helpful if you know what the error code means, gives some direction, like the power supply board in this case. My Philips vhs vcr has intermittently shut itself down and flashing error code "2" as well, altough not in a long time now, but haven't been able to find out what this code means. It has always started immediatly back on again and worked normally, so probably not major problem.

[@ovalwingnut]

BIG FAN of this COoL repair series. Dyson really blows the other fan Mfgs away. Mr. Vince has such a breezy demeanor. Ii's great that KZbin can air current content so quickly. Like I said, I'm a BIG FAN

[@manolisgledsodakis873]

The green corrosion is mainly copper sulphate crystals. From my distant memory of chemistry class at school, I think that the crystals hold molecules of water, making them conductive. Heat will drive off some of the water making the crystals less conductive (and eventually turning them white, I think?).

[@SardiPax]

With digital circuits, if you have signals that rise or fall relatively slowly, you can get multiple streams of pulses seen by whatever receives the signal. With a Schmitt-Trigger device, because of hysteresis (which means the signal has to fall further than the point it reached to generate a '1' as it rose before the signal is seen as a '0' again) the device can turn a slow rise/fall into a clear, simple '1' or '0' rather than a stream of them. Your theory about using it to measure the speed of the motor is probably correct.

[@StarlightStream]

A very interesting video and it may be the cleaning up of solder connections and making sure that there are strong connections in the first place that helped resolve the issue. I got a wireless blender once and straight out of the box the battery seemed very depleted whenever I used it more than 2 days in a row. The device would always run into a low power state. I got too frustrated so I opened it up and saw nothing except some dull solder where the battery connects. I neatened it up and made sure it had a solid solder connection. After that I had more power, the battery lasts for ages, and it does not matter if I keep it turned on or off (it has a small on off switch to prevent battery drainage) if it wouldn't have been for that I would have thrown it in the bin

[@TylerDurden-pk5km]

Good to mention the isolation issue - the same issue was also present when you worked on the fancy vacuum cleaner.

[@TheBrokenPast]

Dang Vince, that's a tough one! If anything, I would've thought that it may have had to do with the connectors on the board, as they're directly opposite the chip that you cleaned and reflowed. My thought was maybe you playing with unplugging them and testing the leads, etc., that it flexed something to the point of making better contact. But then at ~12:42 you mention that you STILL got an F2 code, right before putting the heat gun on the board. So that doesn't make sense. I don't think the heat gun would've done anything. You had it off and on for about 12 seconds, which I wouldn't think would make that much of a difference with unleaded solder. Yet after doing so, it seemed to work perfectly. But, I would've assumed, like you that it was a bad cap that was causing issues starting the fan. Ugh. Those are the worst "fixes", when you do actually fix it, but you don't know why! Either way, well done, and you saved a £350 fan!

[@Tokaisho1]

I reckon you found the issue with the corrosion there, nice video Vince.

[@ImranOO7]

Brilliantly done, and as Northridge Fix would say, “better than factory”

[@TheDefpom]

@29:36 that is a 74HC14, is often used to clean up signals because of the schmitt trigger inputs as that creates hysteresis on the inputs, and obviously is an inverter, so sometimes signals get put through 2 gates (in series) to remove the signal inversion and retain it's polarity but clean it up.

[@patrickcraenen5163]

In my opinion the corrosion (which is usually conductive) on and more specifically between the pins of the schmitt-trigger IC caused the feedback circuit of the fan motor to not work correctly resulting in the F2 error code.

[@mark-andrews]

Wow! The internal view of the spinning fan, with the hand painted markings, completely triggered a memory of me as a youth being in school, at a science lesson: a 'Physics'' lesson, I THINK it was about: light refraction, and an osciliscope projector might've been used, it was a darkend room, we all viewed, in total respectful sillence, until it became obviious to AlLL in the room that a viewer of this demo was experiencing a seizure.

[@pault4955]

Dyson's new slogan should be "A solution looking for a problem" Now Mr Dyson can I have my cheque please.

[@rondickson1491]

Another interesting and great video!! Best wishes from the USA!

[@6581punk]

All that circuitry for a fan. It's designed to be complex and unrepairable. You can get many of the other parts or fix them, but where you gonna get the PCB or firmware? that's why they do it.

[@309electronics5]

Yeah not really needed! Imo nothing beats the good old ac induction motor. I always dislike this bldc rubbish even though it might be more efficient and its more complex because it needs complex driving compared to an ac induction motor that just needs power and a capacitor and maybe some extra windings connected to a switch

[@shiner3lima892]

Yet another superb fix from the fixit maestro. Great job Vince.

[@ray73864]

I just have a cheap $20AUD fan... I need a fan to help me sleep at night, doesn't matter if it is winter or summer (We only have 2 seasons here in Western Australia :P ). It's the air movement and the sound. I've been that way for 40yrs, Dyson is just a fashion statement.

[@Phiyedough]

It never ceases to amaze me how much heat these chips will take. I tend to to take ages, waiting for it to cool down after each pin.

[@100SteveB]

Like most modern things - designed not to last. Unless of course you know Vince! But honestly, why so much tech in something that should really be a very simple and reliable device. Items like this are the reason we have so much e-waste. But well done for saving this one from ending up at the recycling centre. (For now at least). 😀

[@johboh]

Tea break fix coming up soon to fix those two broken party poppers from the PCBWay comercial?

[@Mymatevince]

😂

[@biotrekker]

Vince just does not give up.

[@Mark_C1]

Is that a magnet around a coil right next to that little electrolytic capacitor ? If so I’m guessing they’ve had problems with capacitive coupling ?

[@TheSkaldenmettrunk]

This was for sure irritating but a nice fix.

[@kareno8634]

HI, Cleaning crusty corrosion from Chip contacts helped signals get sent to Capacitor. re: Noise - when replacing motor, could have possibly been not 'centered', on mark ... if motor relies on 'sync' such for balance\speed. ?? idk - based on "Hall" sensor noted

[@andrasszabo7386]

Nice fan,Vince :) The hall-effect sensors must be tested, one of those might be faulty. Maybe if you turn the shaft of the motor a little bit, it must use a different sensor, and thinks that it is OK. I also wonder why nobody coats their boards with non-conductive clear varnish, against liquid damage?

[@NeilAinsworth-ev1rm]

Hi Steve we used to use freezer spray to check this kind of fault

[@mathieubroersma]

Love your Nintendo skirting board 🤭❤️

[@reviewassistant6891]

I have a broken dupray steam mop incan pay to send, i paid £30 used for week and now tripping the electrics, £159 new snd honestly best thing ive found in long while, shame it djdnt last, where do i find your po box

[@dimanpro7007]

Great video, thank you Vince!

[@roxxliveracing2039]

always nice to meet one of your Fans :P

[@marcellipovsky8222]

Hi Vince, I think the motor rattled even before you took it apart. (maybe less, but it did) You could hear it when it started/accelerated. Also: Pulse width modulation or PWM is a commonly used control technique that generates analog signals from digital devices such as microcontrollers. In PWM technique, the signal's energy is distributed through a series of pulses rather than a continuously varying (analog) signal.

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks Marcel👍

[@marcellipovsky8222]

@@Mymatevince You are very welcome

[@wisher21uk]

Brilliant fix that green on the chip looked weird maybe it was not picking up signals properly, I.e fan isn’t spinning due to corrosion tracking across the pins, should of checked what pins were corroded and see what their purpose was? On my Volvo I had all sorts of lights come up on the dash, headlights on all the time, “Brake failure”, wipers wouldn’t work oh and alarm kept going off…… it was the CEM under the glovebox, water had dripped into a plug and in turn dripped onto the pcb it was green and fury I had to strip it all down and clean it and cover with a bag. All ok ever since 😊 common issue apparently

[@kittyztigerz]

you aint only person who fix dyson fan there few other have too but not in video but somewhere in website i have come cross few issues with f2 is bad chip not power issues and i remember it was quite years agos them now it so noise and after replacing that chip aging it back to quite aging i been wondering if that chip failure feed smooth voltage to motor and senting bad voltage spike cause motor make all kinda of noise or failure do anything at all sometime capacitor does fix it sometime straight it out voltage aging i dont trust tester to test capacitor because will throw out wrong reading think it work but once in pcb it doesnt work so it good thing replace it anyway and if you have hear motor make more different noise them i adjust you replace that chip because can be annoying and drive you into wall not knowing it

[@pm0neypenny]

Off topic but have you booked Knebworth classic car show yet Vince? Quite close to me so would come and say hello to you and the rat mobile

[@gerrymichaud3851]

the white mark on the fan maybe there to test rotational speed. An optical speed sensor would read the white mark and figure out the speed.

[@Drew-Dastardly]

I found it hilarious when Vince pronounced hysteresis hysteria's ;)

[@valuedteammember1005]

Yes.... Vince doesn't follow the trends. He sets them!

[@Mymatevince]

😂

[@WOFFY-qc9te]

The white mark is probably for the balancing machines tachometer which indexes to the mark and then grinds away material to correct imbalance.

[@sjftech]

I did think that when you were trying to heat up the capacitor, it looked like you were more over the chip anyway as opposed to the cap.

[@QsTechService1]

that chip looked very corroded Nice repair 👨‍🔧

[@brake_4_cake]

I wonder if reflowing that chip would have been easier with some solder paste and hot air

[@Karthor.]

9:00 isn't because when you move its generating voltage and makes it read different on the ohms and when its still it's not, could be something different but that's my thinking

[@helgew9008]

Yes. Rotating the motor will induce a small voltage in the windings. This voltage will confuse the ohmmeter.

[@leybraith3561]

...Very enjoyable... Nice to watch and do a parallel diagnosis.... Lots of brain cells being exercised and experience some real life faffing about... ... Daft comments (good and bad) mean that at the very least you are getting people to think rather than sit watching slack jawed, as the world passes them by. Nice one.

[@danielhyams8278]

You should try to repair a Meaco fan vince and compare it to a Dyson fan because I got a Meaco, it excellent product but dont know how easy to repair them??

[@jonnyduncan7056]

I'm a Sparky and have fixed so many expensive Dyson hoovers that customers were going to throw out. I will never buy Dyson, products, he voted for Brexit and moved his factory and labour abroad. Yes, he's done a lot for Britain in the past and is a clever chap. But overpriced gear made cheaply. Keep up the great work Vince

[@roosey2010]

Is it a brushed motor if so the brush’s might be warn :) :)

[@VampyRagDoll]

Just an idea Vince. If the fan plays up again and your son has an Amazon echo buy a smart plug so the on off is on the plug not the fan.

[@leybraith3561]

....Caps play such an important roll in todays noisy digital environment...Can you imagine the play of currents that must be occurring in components/circuits that are capable of operating at meg/gigherz?... ...Basic fan operation only needs low frequency operations but faults in such circuitry is challenging as one tiny micro second power-rail (etc.) glitch and things go flakey. ...Caps that come good for a bit after soldering (insulating layers reform partially) are very 'entertaining'...

[@leybraith3561]

...The struggle you are having at 24mins to get nice looking soldering joints is reminiscent of my experiences with a dodgy roll of solder. ...For some reason most joints made with that solder were rubbish. ...Changing to another roll made a huge difference. ...Flux core appeared to be good, guessing incorrect metals / ratios?

[@kylobudgie9841]

Hello Vince I like watching you fix interesting things. I’m just wondering if you’re interested to buy two broken Wii off me and you can make a video of trying to fix them if you are interested let me know.

[@vitor900000]

13:20 Most likely for balancing and rpm calibration.

[@robin9342]

Nice repair and good save from landfill. But £300 for a fan? Madness and such unnecessary complication just to spin a motor. Call me old fashioned, but you can buy 10 'tower' fans for that price with simple 3 speed mechanical switches and barely anything to go wrong.

[@309electronics5]

I always love that 50/60hz Hum those GOOD OLD LEGENDARY INDUCTION MOTORS have that this bldc rubbish lacks

[@danieladams5379]

For a 'high end' brand, those Dyons don't half fail!!

[@neddy1287]

Noisy motor needs lubrication on the main shaft to reduce the metal on metal contact

[@barrieshepherd7694]

Vince can you share the type/model of microscope you use please.

[@defiantgsxr]

Sweet

[@ShakeryGO]

Why heatig up the capacitor could solve a capacitor issue?

[@MrKevin920]

White line on the fan is probably for testing RPM before it leaves the factory

[@DEmma1972]

HC14 IMO, the corrosion was pretty bad even stopping the reflow

[@jrsc01.]

on the next 'Can I Fix' - 2x Party poppers...

[@Mymatevince]

😂

[@Audit-The-Auditors-UK]

If the motor uses PWM for speed control then the corroded IC is at fault as it will enable pure waveform generation.

[@TheDefpom]

@27:00 that was almost a capastrophe...

[@billspencer8540]

Why not have a look at the other Capacitor C20 while being in there ?

[@jeffers2923]

Vince did your roll’s get its MOT

[@CallumRepairs]

It did and Vince can be seen driving it in one of his current videos.

[@seankirk333]

You not bin watching?

[@squirlystubbuk]

Do you have some way of possibly copying the data from the chip so maybe if you have more in the future you could buy the blanks and program yourself?

[@309electronics5]

It might be read-write protected but idk if its true. Many manufacturers do protect their code though

[@AlexWilson-ji5rm]

Paul Anderson actor to avocado the builder of the fence gems

[@therobot-lz5fb]

the one you re-soildered

[@therobot-lz5fb]

the one leg on the chip was loose

[@myleft9397]

It isn't that crazy of a chip. It is 6 NOT gates and they have hysteresis. What I mean is the output is going to be either the low or high voltage... 0 V or 3.3 V I guess... but as the input rises slowly from 0 to 3 V the output might go from 3 to 0 V at say an input of 1 V, whereas when the input drops slowly from 3 to 0 V the output might go from 0 to 3 V at say an input of 2 V. The trigger to change the output for the rising is not the same as the falling, that's the Schmit Trigger, and that's how it changes a sin to square wave... I hope I've remembered my classes correctly.

[@custommadeknives]

Great fix but having a wife that gets annoyed at the bairns having a fan on to keep cool is madness. poor vince...😞

[@leewright6101]

74HD14 is a 6 pole inverter looks like it switches poles on motor , so if one failed. it would have come up with error,

[@netgod3com-FUYouTube]

The noise is definitely due to removing the bearing support from the back of the motor and also the reason it felt crunchy while manually turning the shaft with the bearing unsupported.

[@ralphj4012]

I'm a big fan, but don't copy what you see here (9:42 to 10:00). The Schmitts could have been an issue, at a brief glance they look to be in the sense wires from the motor (although hall-effect sensors produce relatively clean square waves, most micros don't like any noise when trying to determine input presence). The white mark may just be a spinning / safety indicator (or TDC ex-Wankel).

[@ironmanklm4578]

You would be safer using an isolation transformer when working with mains voltage

[@leybraith3561]

...Sadly most viewers wont be able to source one....Good topic to start a conversation about mains safety...

[@aurthorthing7403]

I think I would gut that main board and replace it with a generic speed controller.

[@309electronics5]

Or just trash the whole thing and buy a fan that has a good old induction motor that just needs a capacitor to work and a few tapped windings to control speed

[@beautifulsmall]

Looking forward to seeing you fix the Dyson OnTrac headphones. If you need any fix tips from ex Dyson employees theres an extra 1000 available. Will you fix the failed party poppers ? MMV tee shirt "It Could be Capacitor Related". Even a randomly placed electrolytic is polorized right 50% of the time. The logic family 14 inverter has hYsterisis , a wide dead band input before the output switches, turns noisy analouge signals to digital. . Suprised if that was the problem they are chips made for decades with MTBF as low as it goes. Yes the corrosion, leakage. A pleasure to see another success.

[@CasualSpud]

Is Dyson that bad of a product? They seem to be in a number of repair videos.

[@tonyrose2692]

My wife switched to the Dyson hairdryer, it's significantly quieter than any of her others and dries her hair faster. Can't speak on the other products though

[@anthonyg4671]

No just more units to go wrong compared to other brands I would say

[@CasualSpud]

​@@anthonyg4671style over substance

[@Ea-Nasir_Copper_Co]

@@anthonyg4671And more likely to be sold for spares or repairs, I’d think.

[@gordonm2821]

I suppose if your pet pisses on a product it can make any brand bad

[@TechGorilla1987]

Funny thing about this fan - my $15 mechanical fan is still spinning and has was before you fixed this the first time. My fan has spun 24/7 since before you repaired this one. $15. Think about that.

[@ovalwingnut]

That speaks volumes. The future looks sketchy as we move to more and more over enginered answers to simple problems.

[@Regaljester75]

Are you suggesting Dyson make overpriced over engineered rubbish? Surely not 😮 Why the very idea!

[@bobmcbob4399]

@@Regaljester75 Just like Apple.. And now Samsung too.

[@borisdg]

Dyson are overpriced piece of cr*p.

[@myoldmate]

​@@ovalwingnut simple is best.

[@cfq.tufanuf7601]

3 phase pulse motor

[@Wonky4925]

It's the micro controller, our AM06 done the self same thing.. I have it set up to Alexia to turn the power on to get it to osciallate then use the remote to turn the power of the fan on and off

[@309electronics5]

Clearly did not watch the video. It is not always the mcu

[@myoldmate]

Love your channel. Have no idea what's going on half the time though. Not your fault. When it comes to electricity, I'm a thick cnut.

[@frankurmom8741]

Hmmm, fan covered in pee? Better give this to my son 😂

[@jeffers2923]

Hi chat did the rolls get a mot.

[@Ea-Nasir_Copper_Co]

It did! The video was posted a few weeks back.

[@dodgydruid]

Hehe got my next "big boys" Seiko in the post incoming... March 1968 Seiko Sportsman 6602 woohoo 5 months younger than me lol Also got in this week a Russell Hobbs Wedgwood coffee percolator from early 70's, sorry just so superior to a cafetiere imho :) My 1930's Portass mini lathe is all wired up with a 180v DC motor and controller and I can go from a crawl for tapping and die'ing to super speed for carving denser metals and everything in between :D This weekend its the turn of my Startt 3d printer, got to cut and shape a pair of metal pieces to act as a brace for a broken stanchion piece then that is a fix too. I will prob wend the weekend out by continuing my build project using a 2 fan and 3 fan MSI Coreliquid "all in one" coolers, I've gotten one of them MetalFish open frame PC cases and I want to run the 240 and 360 rads and have water cooling running on GPU and CPU as I was a bit of a legend back in the 2000's for water cooling and gaming rigs as I chased to get on the leaderboard for 3ghz speed out of a single cored Barton AMD chip which I did and it lasted a week at 3.1ghz squeezing the nuts off a AMD 1700+ mobile CPU running under a twin circuit water cooling... I was basking in my own glory for at least a nanosecond over on OverclockersUK... :P

[@aldo9923]

Unrelated but why are you wearing long sleeves in summer lol

[@markusTegelane]

Press F2 to enter SETUP

[@bathesheba111]

Dear Vince you wouldn’t have high voltage/safety issues if. You USED AN ISOLATING TRANSFORMER! 😎

[@samuelfielder]

But you'd stil have 400 volts across that capacitor - and still get shocked if you touched both terminals of it

[@leybraith3561]

...Doing the repair using an Isolating Transformer is a v. good idea... but, NOT when you do a public video.... ... There'll be a lot of newbies watching that might not understand the issues and will 'have a go' without the isolating transformer. (Moderately expensive / specialized / heavy, high power mains transformer with isolated one to one windings that you plug into the domestic mains and then plug the unit under test into it) ...Certainly suggest and discuss the idea.... Good topic to reinforce 'mains' safety. ...When repairing mains gear it kinda freaks me out how easy it would be to end up with a device that works ok but has mains voltages exposed to future users. Zapping someone's kid would be hard to cope with.... Sorry for the downer... Very glad Vince harps so much on mains safety...

[@router5840]

Happy Wife happy life.

[@jeremylewis4450]

That fan doesn't sound smooth. It reminds me when I ran over a can with my bicycle and it stuck in my back tire.

[@thecinesister]

Is anyone else getting a lot of background noise on this video? There’s a bunch of banging around in the background. At first I thought it was in my building but I think it’s on the video.