Is 3 In 1 Oil / WD40 Bad For Model Trains? - Model Railway Mythbusting

Is 3 In 1 Oil / WD40 Bad For Model Trains? - Model Railway Mythbusting
In this video we tackle the widespread myth that 3 in 1 oil and WD40 are extremely bad for locos and will damage them. As we quite quickly prove, there is nothing wrong with 3 in 1 oil or WD40 and it is perfectly fine to use both lubricants on model trains and locos!
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[@BudgetModelRailways]

Hello. PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU COMMENT. After 100s of comments telling us WD40 will warp and destroy plastic and that it isn't a lubricant, read the companies website description: WD-40 is a non-volatile viscous oil which remains on the surface to which it is applied, giving lubrication and protection from moisture. That's right, lubrication

[@thecrazycabbage5777]

Just as an aside to this, and not particularly relating to oils; Certain plastics are known to degrade with time, and exposure to UV light. One of the more noticeable effect of the latter is colour fade. I work in an industry that regularly sees various types of materials exposed to a vast array of environmental situations. Certain types of plastic (as I'm sure you are aware there is more than one plastic) are affected by things more so than others. For example, some vehicles have plastic parts in the engine. These parts are constantly covered in oils, various detergents within said oils, buildup and such detritus as generated during the normal operation of the motors, and of course, extreme heat, and yet do not degrade. However, cleaning your plastic headlamps with WD40 is probably not a wise idea, but i'd quite happily clean the plastic door trims with it. Depending on how old you are, does anyone remember the old 79's and 80's plastic appliances, where the plastic would yellow and crack or crumble, even while not being subjected to WD-40 or 3-in-1 oil! The bodies of locomotives and rolling stock being produced today is of a different 'mix' than in years gone by, due to several factors, some being environmental, others being regulations introduced on manufacturing processes and refinement, and also, naturally, cost. I guess the TL;DR is, just because it USED to be true, doesn't mean it still is. It may just depend what that particular loco is made from!

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Thanks for one of the more interesting comments, I think you are right that just because something was once true does not mean it is now. Happy Christmas

[@williamlemon38]

As a Former Bachmann Ind. Inc. Repair Tech/Department Head, we would have to tell customers what too use and not to use... WD-40, being a contact cleaner/penetrating oil will affect some paint jobs and ruin them- Not always the case, but it was done as a marketing ploy to sell our line of oils for doing maintenance. In the shop however- We commonly used both 3&1 Oil for Motor Bushings, gears & such... I used to use a combination of 3&1 and WD-40 for motor bushings on older engines, because it allowed the oil a deeper penetration of the bushings. WD-40 is a great cleaner for wheels to cut the Carbon build up, thats common with prolong use (Which is what WD-40 was created for)

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Hi William, thank you so much for this comment, I feel vindicated in my views now! Happy Christmas

[@williamlemon38]

Budget Model Railways I should also note- I’m a collector/Model Railroader, that has a collection of over 400 Locomotives & Traction, of all manufacturers- From Athearns- Trix in HO Scale, with the majority of my collection being Old AHM/Rossie(1960’s-1980’s) and i use the same methods without issues or fails... I should also state- Heavy Oils work best on Gears & Axels, Thinner oils are best for Motor Bushings. WD-40 is better as a wheel cleaner to break carbon build up, as compared to other solvent based cleaners for doing wheels and tracks. WD-40 can also be used to clean carbon build up off of tracks- Common with aluminum, copper & brass tracks...

[@MervynPartin]

I used to have a Gauge 1 garden railway. I used WD40 on the TRACK to improve electrical pick-up. It was brilliant! An instant change from an unsteady performance to a very smooth motion, even through the small radius curves. WD40 is designed for electrical uses so I cannot understand why anyone would think it was bad for model railways. Like your demonstration- excellent!

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Thanks so much for your support.

[@FredWilbury]

What a fantastic weathering technique...lol regards Fred

[@Galacticmaster]

made me laugh.

[@CZ350tuner]

Strange how folks have been using 3 in 1 oil on Rovex / Triang Railways / Triang Hornby / Hornby Railways locos since they started making train sets in 1950 and NOW this urban myth appears. Pretty easy to debunk, just tell the myth to an old modeller and watch them laugh....

[@Tyc11114]

Hell, people here in the US use WD40 and 3 in 1 on Old Postwar Lionel models, I've done that and they run great, only problem is it gums up after a while but thats why its a budget lubricant

[@Tyc11114]

From my experience WD40 works well for lubrication and breaking through old lubricants, i never understood where the myth came from

[@pimpmydiecastsdiecastandto3176]

also strange how many of those triang , triang hornby are still with us and running fine whilst also having some of the poorest plastics from when plastics were in thier infancy

[@richarda996]

3 into 1 oil , I finally needed repairs on my American Flyer engine after forty years. ❤

[@useruser-oc8xn]

I am so glad I stumbled across this. I assumed if it was good enough for sewing machines and such (that and singer oil) it was good enough for a locomotive. I was half in a panic and about to degrease the lot and start over. I've become somewhat of a polymath in my lifetime but it has taken 60 years for me to get around to Model locomotives. I am really enjoying finding these old broken things and breathing life into them. It is immediate gratification/satisfaction.

[@apenza4304]

I almost bought and paid $18.77 for lubricant marketed especially for HO trains while I already had WD-40 and 3in 1 in my workshop. You saved me money. Thank you.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Happy to help

[@H0bby_Adventure]

I see a new series of videos. “Model Train Myth Busters” awesome vid. Oh one more thing. WD-40 acutely stands for “Water Displacement try number 40”. The reason its 40 is that it took the person who invented WD-40 40 tries to get the formula right. Don’t know if any one knew that or not.

[@craftmole]

It was developed to avoid ballistic missiles having electrical problems caused by dampness whilst sitting in their bunkers.

[@richardblalock2407]

@@craftmole It has fish oil in also.

[@andrewjames1190]

i put some of my locos to bed approximately 25 to 30 years ago and as precaution prayed the mechanisms with wd 40 they were then stored in boxes in a loft and a garage. these were fine when i restarted the hobby a couple of years ago. these four locomotive were a hornby intercity 125, a hornby tender drive mallard, a lime deltic and an early hornby/triang pannier tank. I was not to delicate about anything back then as a child/teenager and they are all fine and run regularly on the layout. Thanks for another excellent video.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

They are some great locos . That's my point really that with this older models, then there should be no,problem

[@andrewjames1190]

yeah good point well made. i tend toward older locos anyhow as like you on a budget.

[@kevinhale9400]

I have heard that sewing machine oil is a perfectly acceptable substitute for the recommended oils for these locos. Perhaps you could try that rumour since you're in an adventurous mood, using the same loco of course just to maintain conformity.

[@heli-man-]

I have used olive oil to keep my trains healthy and you will actually find most of these rumours started with the expensive loco oil sellers to promote their own oils and it has worked a treat, as an example I worked as an electrician at a oil bottling plant where I saw the same oil go into two different bottles with well known labels attached with one of them being half the price.

[@Tyc11114]

Ive been saying this for a while, and olive oil, gotta try that one day just for curiosity

[@mrBDeye]

Olive oil will harden and become sticky.

[@davidsutton6787]

I have just watched your video and can I please say that albeit being a motor vehicle technician for over 30 years (I'm not digging at you model railway guys in any way) WD 40 is a good lubricant( as are some lower priced ones).I tried this stuff on a very old Hornby/Triang 08 that was bought for me by my parents many years ago that I found in a suitcase and behold it has run faultlessly for over 5 years now since I doused it in the stuff! I appreciate that not have been done,but everyone to their own as they say.The old boy is still going strong this morning!!!

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Thanks for the support. Reading some posts on here you would think WD40 is useless and has no uses at all, so how come it's so big world wide?! So many of us have used it successfully, particularly to restore old locos. I think this is a case of urban myth.

[@grimfist_one]

Just did my own experiment, had an 040 that barley ran, nearly 20 years old no maintenance. absolutely doused it in wd40. Running fine now! Although it dripped into the track and other trains couldn't get up an incline haha!

[@allegheny48]

The name WD40 stands for Water Displacement, 40th try. It took the inventor 40 attempts to get it to do what he wanted it to. In so far as using it on model trains a rule of thumb in my opinion is to use that or any other type of lubricant sparingly. A little of any lubricant usually goes a long way.

[@andreashale1482]

Hi, I have not read the company's description, I can only speak from personal experience. Some years ago, an aerosol bottle of WD40 lost its propellant. Not wanting to waste 1/2 can of WD40, I cut the can open and poured the contents into a plastic bottle. After about a fortnight I wanted to use some, only to find a deformed, melted heap of plastic with the cap sitting on top. And before someone comes up with the idea, the bottle stood alone and away from other substances. Furthermore, a friend of mine used WD40 to clean and lubricate his layout. After a few weeks the rails separated from the sleepers because the sleepers were falling apart, including his points. So it doesn't matter if the boffins say there is substance in WD40 that can harm plastic, the facts speak for themselves.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Some years ago the plastics were very different especially on triang models. The plastic bottles are made of is a totally different plastic to those used in locomotives in any case soi am afraid this proves nothing

[@rvninnorthcarolina3377]

Okay, so as a young modeler in the 1970's I used 3-1 oil to lubricate my locomotives regularly and I likely did a sloppy job at applying it. Never gave it a thought. I used them on old Athearn, AHM and Tyco loco's that were available at that time. Fast forward to 2017 and I still am an active modeler and I still have many of the 1970's rolling stock and loco's moving about my layout (for fun). None of them experienced any degradation to the plastic or gears and I never had contact issues, even with the older brass track I used to use. I don't use WD-40 mainly do to the fact that I found it can get sticky over time. As an Audio Video Systems engineer I NEVER recommend WD-40 for electrical contacts...there are better solvents for that (Fader Lube for instance). WD-40 has it place but I refrain from model trains and electrical components. I have used WD-40 on full size steam locomotives with great results :-)

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Thanks for the info. We agree with you that most of these older SC locos will be fine , and it's interesting to find someone who has been doing it for 40years and his locos haven't melted yet! It's interesting because most lay people I know use WD40 esp for electrical applications.

[@mickmonk7179]

Love it, after all my life in industrial maintenance plus many as a trainer and assessor I have always marvelled at the myths that are created in certain minds. Keep up the good work.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Thanks

[@robertpearce2244]

Love your work on debunking these model railway myths!

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Thanks we have an update planned for this one

[@ModelRailwaysUnlimited]

I have today had a reply back from 3in1 direct. Please note what they say, all manufactures apart from Hornby who have never changed from Triang days say to use a plastic safe, specialist lubricant. 3in1 themselves confirm this. You video raises an important point that everyone needs to understand. Dear Mike Thank you for your recent enquiry. We would recommend that you follow manufacture instruction for cleaning and maintenance of specialist or high value items as we have not tested on these applications. For general maintenance, 3-in-one oil is ideal for protection and lubrication of parts. For plastics and rubber we would recommend 3-in-one silicone spray. Thank you for the positive feedback! Kind regards Consumer Support

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Thanks for the feedback. We contacted 3in1 as well but have had no reply back from them so well done.

[@ModelRailwaysUnlimited]

Try contacting Hornby, pointing out what 3in1 say and ask them why it is that they are the only manufacturer that still recommends 3in1? If you can get them to change their advice you would be doing a good service to the whole hobby!

[@BudgetModelRailways]

To be fair we were making the point that in small quantities there is no problem with 3in1, that was the point of the video. In fact we have had no first hand evidence of 3in1 causing any issues , which is probably why Hornby are happy for it to be used.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

PS. Bachman use both 3in1 and WD40 in their own workshops, please see earlier comment.

[@MikesMovies]

Do we have that from Bachmann themselves?

[@michaelcudby787]

The problem with 3in1 or wd40 is not so much that it could melt plastic, its that the 3in 1 does not stick the gear that it is supposed to lubricate.When the motor spins, it just flies off the gear & efectively does not do what its supposed to do....lubricate the gear.I dont know if 3in1 has changed over the years, but it was made as a sewing machine oil. We used to use it in all our Marklin locos, years ago,which have a pancake style of motor/gearing setup.We would oil them regularly, but the oil woul just fly off the gears & make one hell of a mess inside the loco.Hence, we were always battling to replace the armitures,because the oil was not sticking to the gears. Never, have never will use 3in1.If we had have used the correct oil, in the first place, those Marklin locos would prob still be running. IMO. Cheers Michael...NZ

[@spiralfirst6488]

I suspect trick filming techniques . When I left the lid of an empty WD40 tin in the same room as my model railway, not only did it ruin all the rolling stock but it dissolved the track, baseboards and all evidence that I was ever involved in the hobby. An expensive lesson.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Lol

[@richjohnson1263]

Just a thought, it may be the propellant that is damaging to the plastic. 30 years ago I sprayed a dusting product on a rag (Endust), it dried and was safe to dust plastic. I sprayed it on the plastic and it melted instantly. Newer versions may have a safer propellant. P.S. Secretly I was hoping for a fireball locomotive.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Secretly so were we !

[@fernsnyder7072]

I've used 3 in 1 oil on vintage motors for just over thirty years and have never found any problems except when I have over-oiled the motor. On the other hand, I tend to stay away from using WD40 on motors, but do use it for taking off the sticky glue residue left by labels stuck to computer monitors and laptops and the like. It dissolves the glue and makes it easier to remove. I have used it as lubricant on motors, but it doesn't seem to last as long as 3 in 1.

[@bullettube9863]

I can't believe there are still people who think WD-40 dissolves plastic! Yes it is a petroleum product, but it doesn't contain any volatile compounds so it is perfectly safe on plastic. In fact I did exactly what you did in the pan, over twenty years ago, to show members of a model RR club that WD-40 is perfectly safe to use near plastic, and makes a great mold release agent when pure silicone spray isn't available. As for 3in1 oil,,good grief! It's the safest lubricant you can use on anything! As usual, too much lubricant can be just as bad as too little, wipe off any excess so dust and dirt doesn't stick and become a gummy mess.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Not only do some people still believe it but they have got very cross with us questioning it, so string is the pull of an urban myth. Thanks for watching, commenting and supporting

[@Calvertfilm]

That's a great video. I think there are a lot of urban myths such as don't drag a train backwards along the track a few inches as it makes the wheels flat, and use an abrasive track rubber only, not a mild sandpaper for old rusty track. And yet I have done all these things with old trains and everything is fine. With my new stock I am very careful just in case but the old stock doesn't ever seem to have got hurt. Mind you it is interesting reading other comments as some people have had their own experiences different to mine.

[@raymondhatton6877]

saw this comment and thought of this video so here you go Crow T. Robot 3 months ago (edited) Just received from the UK an used Hornby 0-4-0 Caledonian Pug with a metal chassis, so it's heavy. It was very jerky and needed a good deal of power to get around the track. Performance after cleaning with swabs and alcohol was not helpful. Tried ATF on the rails and then a few extra touches. WOW! It now runs smoothly and pulls steadily at a 30 per cent lower power setting. Here's what I did. I put ATF on the rails as the video suggests. Ran the engine and stock and the improvement was marked. Then I wiped the rails and wheels, removing black crud. Then I reapplied ATF and ran again. Smoother yet with the ATF on clean tracks and wheels. Then I applied ATF to the inside of the wheels where the pickups make contact. Wiped them clean and reapplied. Smoother yet. So, apply and clean until no more crud is apparent. Then a final application over the clean parts. Run until time to repeat. I used to be an audiophile and in that realm, oil compounds are sometimes used as contact enhancers on interconnects between components. There is a marked improvement in the sound. This is attributed partly to the reduction of tiny sparks between the connecting surfaces. See CAIG DeOxit Gold. It's expensive for a little, but I used it as the final wheel and track coating. Large corporations and NASA use it according to the CAIG site. This sparking reduction probably accounts for the diminished buildup of black track crud on ATF treated rails and wheels. There are tiny sparks that are invisible, but corrode the silver resulting in black silver oxide. Reducing that process is probably why the tracks and wheels stay cleaner longer when ATF is applied. ATF would also reduce rail surface contact with humidity and oxygen, so there is another effect. The problematic black stuff isn't so much dust, but corrosion. With ATF applied, it just won't happen as quickly as it does without ATF. Clean bare nickel silver is just asking for trouble. While traction may be reduced slightly, it is far less a factor in the hobby than track maintenance. Do I even need to say this? PS: DO NOT use Valvoline Max synthetic ATF, the stench of that stuff is terrible.

[@STEAMRADIO]

I can't comment on all aspects of lubricating the loco's, HOWEVER, when I used WD 40 or 3-in-1 on my Tri-ang 00 loco,s (early 1970's) the cylinder blocks became brittle over shortish period of time (few months?) and I ended up having to replace them as they in turn broke up. This may not have been the oil itself but the carrying / penetrating agent e.g. paraffin.

[@djcharlyc]

Hi, very interesting article, and thanks for going to the effort of time testing the 'lubricants'. I would suggest only that in very long term use, i.e. years, there may be an effect on some plastics, but more of a concern is long term use on the gears, particularly the nylon worm gear. As an ex-precision engineer I can say WD40 never found it's way into the factory, but I'm told WD40 is actually a fish oil product. Obviously my thoughts would need to be verified, and I still can't see any problem with using 3in1 oil as it is a lubricant oil.What really interests me, and it may be you'd fancy putting loco to the test once more, is 'silicone lubricant', mainly used in the pipe industry as a lubricant for metals and plastics. Being silicone based, it wouldn't have any detrimental affect on the train gears or plastic trim.Great video, thank you for posting

[@johnprice5784]

Don't forget that the oil is propelled from the can usually by butane gas which can be bad for some plastics, it is petrol based I think which would be the problem.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

3 in 1 Oil does not damage or melt modern locos or rolling stock or track

[@RicktheRecorder]

Remember that there is really no such thing as 'plastic'. There are hundreds of different compounds, some rare, some commonplace, which react to oils and solvents in very different ways. Trying to replicate all the various combinations of effects is impossible. Many plastics degrade just over time anyway.

[@michaelmorgan7893]

Any oil, even lubricants designed for model trains, if caught up in the brushes or commutator will destroy your motor. If it's used to clean your parts or gears, then wiped clean afterwards, there should be no issues.

[@TheIntercityhst]

Like yourself I have a larger collection of older locomotives and I am glad to see someone has finally brought the 3-in-1 argument up. I've used it for years on locos of all different ages from early Triang to Bachmann Branchline and I have never encountered any problem that seems to appear in the 'dooms day list'. Applied lightly and ran in for at least 30 minutes to allow the gears to bed in is ample, and I must of done this for over 8 years now. Even when I accidentally applied it a bit heavier, all it did was cause a little bit of oil residue to splatter around and stick to the inside of the bodywork casing. The only time I will use WD40 however is when I'm servicing locos. Its an effective de-greaser especially for the time when it comes to clean over the moving bits. Although WD provides a little bit of lubrication at first, its primary use is a de-greaser, meaning that all the moving parts will just eventually dry up by the time the loco hits the track again. The rule I go by is WD40 for cleaning with 3-in-1 for lubricant. I've not noticed any adverse effects to the plastic on the chassis or bodywork from using either. Just to be on the safe side I always leave the bodywork well away from my work bench, although I do that mostly to avoid scratches from tools that I leave scattered around ;) I'd love for you guys to do a video on the effects of Turpentine White spirit when it comes to loco components!

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Thanks for confirming what lots of people have told us, we have ever heard from a chap who used to work fir he Bachmann workshop who told us they used WD40 and 3in1 much as you have described

[@garykreeger7434]

Ha ha, having read some of the comments you have certainly put the cat among the pigeons with this video :-) This is not like putting oil in say a car engine where the quality and grade matters far more. You put a very clear disclaimer at the beginning so those who feel uncomfortable doing this shouldn't - and won't, but those like me who are less worried about a spot of 3 in 1 or WD40 or some of the other products being mentioned in comments will. A good fun video. Cheers

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Thanks Gary, I think you sum it up really well.

[@richardclowes6123]

'Pornography of Consumerism' comes to mind. It's all about 'fear factor' and 'making money'. Glad you did this exercise. There may be a little degredation on a long term basis but rather minimal if any. Better than Ghost Busters eh ! Keep it coming boys, love it !!!!

[@GreatGazukes]

I use ATF on my track to reduce cleaning. To check that it wouldn't destroy the plastics of my locomotives I left some pieces of plastic and nylon in a jar with the ATF for months, They didn't dissolve or become brittle. I figure if it comes in a plastic bottle, it's probably safe for plastic. I prefer to use higher viscosity Hot Devil fishing rod grease on worms and gears, but use a speck of ATF on wheel and motor bearings.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

We did wonder about doing the same. At some point we will get some loco gears and leave them in 3in1 for a couple of months and see what happens?

[@rhiwderinraytube]

"Plastics" covers a whole range pf materials including nylon. Personally I would pay the extra and use fishing reel oil or Peco Electrolube or sewing machine oil.

[@zakbossing7918]

Kulectunkull w o

[@thescalzomodelrailroad6494]

I’m a vintage trains collector and have used 3 in 1 oil for a long time, I have found it to be a great long lasting lubricant and I have ran into no issues

[@briancollins6543]

Been using both 3in1 and WD40 for over 30 years and never had a single issue. Mind you, the haze from the spray was so bad I could not count any rivets any longer... Oh noooo.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Lol epic

[@ElliotSmith1396]

The thing I love about your channel is you always challenge the Bullsh*t and put it to rest with excellently supported evidence. Love it. Keep it up. The internet needs more people like you!

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Thanks for your support Elliot

[@BudgetModelRailways]

We have another myth busting video out tomorrow

[@ElliotSmith1396]

Following up... I'm now using WD40 on my loco's and they run better than ever!

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Well done

[@raymondsprengelmeyer1278]

Thank you very much for addressing the rumors!

[@robgrune3284]

I have found the clear, odourless, synthetic oils to be the best: the oils used to lubricate the keys of saxophones, flute, clarinets.

[@seanstreets9393]

Water displacement formula 40 is a lubricant...just not a great one as it was designed mainly to displace water and to prevent corrosion. As plastic is oil based, oil can act as a solvent and over a long period of time certain oils may soften certain types of plastics (there are many) if left on them "wet"...I'm talking years. It depends on the oil and the plastic...as we all know, car oil comes in plastic containers. I used WD40 on a Mikado engine (which I didn't really care that much about) which I had for 10+ years and the worm gear went soft and failed. I have other engines that are quite old and some that are quite valuable and I have used plastic compatible oil on them (such as gun oil, which is cheaper and formulated to not degrade the plastic/urethane finish on the stocks) or I use expensive loco oil as you really very rarely need to add oil and if so just a drop or so that it doesn't squeak...if the loco is not making noise and is running smoothly, then it doesn't need more oil. If you want to see some short-term effects of WD40, then spray it on rubber and give it a couple of months to crack...I guarantee it will.

[@pimpmydiecastsdiecastandto3176]

most myths come about from salesmen trying to sell expensive products ,, we are empty buckets . our choice is wether to fill that bucket with what you are told or to fill that bucket with your own findings which most of the time angers the sheep

[@BudgetModelRailways]

The established order do tend to object when people challenge long held myths

[@dodgydruid]

I'm lucky being a watch chap I have a little arsenal of watch oils to choose from, yet I use my steam compound oil which I have watered down with some rapeseed to make it a nice sticky lubricant which stays stuck to the spinny whirly bits but doesn't spray or fly off onto bits I don't want oil to get to e.g. under the brushes. Nothing wrong with 3 in 1, I lubricated a Vostok with some just for the crack of it. WD40 is not really an oil, its a water dispersant hence the WD bit, its OK as a quick lubricant but doesn't have the staying power of 3 in 1 which I have used nigh on 50 years on old Raleigh bikes, Vespa control cables, car locks and hinges, house door locks and hinges, electromechanical devices and does the job because its a light application oil a step up from sewing machine or clipper oil and a step down from a medium to heavy lubrication oil. WD40 can attack stuff like transfers, paint finishes on plastic due to the solvent in the stuff that seeks to get under layers to disperse water. On my humble two little loco's for cleaning I used Holts circuit board cleaner which is like carb or brake cleaner but less aggressive and got the brush area on both loco's looking like new copper eating through many years of built up carbon, quick wipe with a q tip and jobs a good 'un :D

[@IndependentBear]

WD stands for "water displacement". "40" is the 40th formulation developed. It was developed by a fellow named Larson for Convair aircraft in San Diego, CA (USA) in the 1950s to solve a specific problem: the Atlas rockets Convair built and stored outside in the sea air were rusting! The US air force wasn't happy buying rusty rockets, no matter how well they worked (they worked so well the Atlas - much upgraded - is still being flown today). WD-40 did the job, repelling water and preventing rust, but the technicians and engineers quickly noted that it served as an excellent light oil lubricant. And so I have used it as a light oil lubricant ever since with excellent results. All oils contain some sort of solvent and some plastics are be attacked by some solvents. The safest solvent is the organic solvent present in Whale oil. Whale oil was used for years to lubricate mechanical clocks, watches and mechanical typewriters, but the whales won the argument about who gets to keep the oil and it is no longer available for lubricating machinery. I have never had any plastic attacked by WD40. WD40 lubrication is not permanent. It does need to be renewed from time to time. All lubricants do. That's why you see people walking around full size steam locos with a can of oil, lubricating the various points. Not even heavy axle grease is permanent.

[@Guitar6ty]

The best place to put WD40 on a model engine is the windings on the armature. Just a squirt on the coils will improve running and actually make it quieter. WD 40 was for use by the military who needed something to keep radios working on the battle field.

[@dmccombe7]

I don't have a vast knowledge of using oils or WD40 on locos however being an Instrument Engineer for over 40 years we were taught in 70's to use very fine Instrument oil that our comapny bought in bulk via our stores dept. This came in small plastic bottles with very fine nozzles to allow access into the many plastic and motorised Instruments used in those days. Everything from the gearing to the casing was manufactured from plastics. I still have a small bottle in my loco repair box just for my locos. On rare occasions we did use 3 in 1 altho i personally found it to be a little to "heavy" in consistency and subsequently would cause running issues on the smaller gearing in Instruments. It didn't corrode or damage anything as such and it was more the fact that the gearing didn't run as smoothly or efficiently as it would with the very fine light oils for Instrumentation. Instrumentation has moved on from pnuematics to electronics and the oil became surplus to requirements hence reason i have a small bottle of course. I personally find 3 in 1 a little to heavy for fine geared locos and no real experience of WD40 on this type of small gearing.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Thanks for the interesting input. That's kind of where I am with this, I realise better oils are better, but that does not mean that cheaper oils are damaging or bad.

[@awizardalso]

I'm inclined to believe that the rumors that 3in1 oil and WD-40 are bad to use were started by the manufacturers and dealers of expensive lubricants made specifically for model locomotives as if we use other lubricants, they lose money!. I've used both in drops from a toothpick and I've also used small amounts of Vaseline jelly in gear boxes on my HO locomotives. Never had any issues with any of them. If anything, they worked just fine.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

That's my view, it's not the lubricants themselves that are the problem, it's the quantities people use.

[@underwaterdick]

It is either the manufacturers of these lubricants, as you said above, or it is people who fell for the lies and believe that because they use expensive lubes and have NEVER had a problem, this is the ONLY solution. Some people like to justify their buying of specialist products by telling others how wonderful they are. The more you say it, the more you convince yourself. As an aircraft engineer I meet people who say that to carry out a certain maintenance task at home or on the car, they 'NEED' a special tool... But it is expensive. Very little on cars or household appliances NEEDS a special tool. Tools can be made, modified and improvised. For example when changing the clutch in my car, a professional mechanic told me that I HAVE to buy a special tool to lock the flywheel in place, well, I used a prybar wedged into the teeth with the other against the ground. This prevented movement of the flywheel. A special tool is great on a professional level, where cost is less of an issue, it is a customer vehicle so you want to do things the correct way and that the tool will see multiple uses. As a one off on your own car at home, not worth it. The same goes with these railways, run a set up 24/7 and take it to displays? Maybe a specialist lubricant is a good investment. Run a hobby layout a few hours a week? Any lubricant is good. After all, they all do the same job.

[@BuggsOgden]

Hi, I run a lot of old gauge O trains, most of them of made before WWII or soon after. Back in those days, 3 in 1 was about all they had for lubrication. These trains are still running fine. What's really bad for them is NOT oiling them at all ! As for WD-40, I have used it to free-up mechanisms that have sat for a long time, with no problems. I once knew a fellow who even used WD-40 for smoke fluid. I guess maybe the new synthetic lubs are better, but I don't believe a small amount of 3 in 1 Oil is going to hurt anything. I enjoyed your video by the way.

[@kevinhale9400]

I loved the musical backing you chose for the trial.

[@mickster04]

I model in N and My locos are just as expensive if not more so than the equivalent in 00. I personally feel the expensive of the 'special' oil makes sense for me. My investment is probably going to last longer with proper care, and my understanding was the purer the oil (at least with little engines) the better it'll last? I am glad you did this though as it really shows, running in a loco makes all the difference!

[@RicktheRecorder]

What do you mean by 'purer', what evidence do you have that 'expensive' means 'purer', why would a 'purer' oil be in any way better (e.g. high spec automotive oils are hugely complex mixtures) and why will your investment 'probably' last longer?

[@mickster04]

@@RicktheRecorder fair kop. I assumed cheaper oils would have more contaminants in it, or unwanted liquids (water etc) and so the expense is ensuring the quality of the material/process by which to create/extract that material. I assume all these oils start out as crude oil and get more refined for various use and that's what I meant by purer. You're right of course that the oils used nowadays are most likely synthetic and so that thought train of thought doesn't track (ha!). But then again sewing machines have a different oil to cars, so I assumed that, being finer machines with smaller parts, they would have less tolerance for any contaminants and so with N gauge trains, the mechanism and tolerances are smaller/less. I could be wrong but it's not an unreasonable assumption. As to cost, I also tend to find I get what I pay for, sure different brands might sell the mostly same product for vastly different prices, but a tool from an unknown brand on aliexpress vs a known brand with a reputation, you're gonna usually pay more for the known brand but there is a high probability the overall quality will be higher, so I assume that WD40 vs an oil specifically considered for model rails, whilst it will cost more, will be a better investment, because of the expected tolerances of the models I am working with. One thing I hadn't heard about with WD40 is the potential for damage to plastics. Again in N gauge a millimetre warp is significantly more noticeable than at 00. That wasn't a consideration for me before though. But it would speak again to purchasing something with model railways in mind, the people producing it, should have considered the potential effects on common materials used as well the available tolerances of the models in question. Those that produce WD40 have certain use cases in mind, and they won't be thinking about N gauge models when they are selling it, nor would I expect them to. But if they found a new additive that meant it worked as a better moisture repellent, that had a negative effect on small details of a model train, the WD40 manufacturer wouldn't add an extra note saying 'not to be used on small models' because they don't assume it will be used that way anyway. Final thought of mine, if you think about budget model railways, they could buy expensive oil ,or WD40, the wd40 is a fraction of the cost and even if it had damaged their shunter, that'd be maybe 40 quid lost (ex the WD40 which could still be used around the house) whereas for me, I have a 100 quid + loco. Therefore the cost of damage vs the saving in the oil used is negative. But thanks for questioning my wording, you're right it was not very good and does require further explanation. I hope I've managed to clarify myself a bit?

[@ricktherecorder4416]

@@mickster04 I’m not sure my off-the-cuff probe deserved such a full response. My point is really a slightly cynical one. Most models, except perhaps the very sophisticated, are pretty rough and ready examples of engineering with low tolerances. They just need the moving parts to be kept clean and some localised lubricant to reduce friction. There are hundreds of different types of ‘plastic’ and they react to lubricants in all sorts of different ways - the possible combinations are almost infinite. Not all lubricants are oils, e.g. PTFE, graphite. Oils fall into three main categories - mineral, vegetable and synthetic. Pretty much all that are available in the market are not ‘pure’ because they contain all kinds of additives to improve their basic lubricant property. I am no expert but I am suspicious of high priced lubricants aimed at model-makers. This market is too small for the production of special lubricants, so I imagine there is some standard supply of medium to low-viscosity oil intended for small machines that is decanted from large drums into tiny fancy packaging with ludicrous mark-ups. I tend to use stuff with PTFE additives as it is less sticky and does not flow everywhere but that choice is not supported by any very serious research I have done.

[@mickster04]

@@ricktherecorder4416 I think this bit really speaks to me ' This market is too small for the production of special lubricants' you're very right, and it's a good point.

[@andrewwalton5778]

hello ive used wd40 on my dcc locos but I spray it on a cloth and power up loco clean one boggie then the other end loco still running so ill leave it up to your veiwers wether they want to try it or not P.S don't use on locos with traction tyers it will destroy the tyer carry on Andrew

[@thestandardfour0699]

I think ( in my opinion) spraying wd 40 on a loco is a " No no " I normally use a designated drop oiler. I do find , after a while, 3 in 1 goes a bit sticky and can pick up a bit of dust but a clean with a rag does the job!

[@BudgetModelRailways]

With respect why? Have you ever done it or are you just repeating the myth. I and lots of others swear by a good spray of wd40 on older reluctant to run locos because it's done the job on numerous occasions

[@thestandardfour0699]

@@BudgetModelRailways I just Don't do it is I don't fancy cleaning wd 40 off the chassis. It has a glossy look and I prefer my engines to not be 'glossy' so to speak

[@colliecandle]

i think electrical switch cleaner is far more satisfactory than WD40. Having said that, i find water far more destructive ( especially when loco's/rolling stock are left outdoors ) As you quite correctly stated, it's the AMOUNT of lubricant applied which is the critical thing, NOT the type. The only real problem with using WD or any other NON conductive lubricant is that it will not do brushes or armatures too much good, whereas switch cleaner will cause no problems on low voltage equipment where absolute cleanliness is essential for passing current to the maximum.

[@MartinJones1]

I confess, I didn't read all 694 comments, but according to the description this video is 5 years old. Do you still have that loco? How does it run today?

[@BudgetModelRailways]

After this we dumped the chassis in cheap 20/50 motor oil for a year. Took it out, no melted or softened plastic, still ran. Cleaned it up, repainted the body and it still runs on our layout

[@Hal-Zuzzu_Model_Railway]

Job well done. I am not known to be a follower of what people say and/or do, and I too see no reason why 3 in one oil and/or WD40 is not good for our locos, preferable in the right qualities :)

[@richardhiggins6471]

My only experience with WD40 and model railways was about 30 years ago, so you may take this with a pinch of salt if you want. There was an article in Railway Modeller which recommended it for getting better running out of older models, and I tried it out on some old Tri-ang locos and it worked a treat. I then used it on a kit built K's whitemetal model (long out of production) which had never run smoothly. It was fantastic for a few days, then when I next ran it a few weeks later the plastic part to hold the pick-ups in place had cracked and fallen apart, followed shortly after by the mounting of the gearbox. It MAY just have been pure coincidence, or perhaps the sudden free-ing up of all the moving parts put too much stress on the plastic K's used, but I haven't used WD40 since and would only recommend it as a last ditch effort to getting a bad loco up and running. As for 3 in 1, I used it all the time on Tri-ang as a youngster - even as smoke oil, where it made a very realistic smell and produced distinctly grey black smoke but probably shortened my life expectancy once inhaled. I suspect the reason some people avoid it is because the nature of the can/bottle/spout it comes in means that far too much oil comes out - one "drop" would be enough to lubricate every single moving part on a loco. I bought a small 10ml bottle of Daywat model railway oil about 20 years for only a few quid and use a needle tip to apply it. I still have about half of it left, so, yes you can still use 3 in 1, but it won't save you much money!

[@cefnonn]

Ah, Keyser kits, that takes me back! Mine was a Coal Tank, what was yours? Thanks, interesting post.

[@richardhiggins6471]

Mine was a GWR 1361 saddle tank. I think I made it in about 1981, got it moving thanks to WD40 in 1982, and then saw it fall apart a few weeks later. The body lasted much longer, so it was relegated to the "repair someday" siding.

[@paullinnitt5450]

Hi Really liked your “experimental” approach. As I understand it, 3 in 1 and WD40 are both vegetable based oils, in fact the same oil - different dispensers. Over time they will form a hard deposit around the bearing. This can be difficult to remove and attract grit/ dust to form grinding paste. Not good. On things like bicycle chains this can be catastrophic. GT 85 is a mineral oil based lubricant and is much better in this regard - and can be found along the shelf from WD40 in many shops. I suppose if you spend £100s on a loco a few extra on specific oil is justified. I would agree with you that most of us would just, carefully apply what we have.

[@lensrig]

Hi. I’m not at all surprised at the results of your tests but I use sewing machine oil on all my locomotives and trucks , carriages ( lots cheaper ) for years now without any problems Regards Len

[@lordsnooty4138]

Len Evans, me too. It looks remarkably like proprietary loco lubes

[@mirageinthedesert5448]

Len Evans that works fine as it is similar

[@chrisjennings7014]

WD is my very first cleaning substance as it lubes , cleans does NOT melt plastic and lasts .Many experts out there with nonsense advice . The definition of an expert " An ordinary person away from home " . Keep up the good work .

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Definition of an expert, ex = someone who used to be something, spert = a drip under pressure!

[@scpvrr]

Great video. I personally use Birchwood Casey Synthetic Gun Oil in a needle oiler. Precision is important, as your dust demo does confirm that dust will stick making my loco ugly. Also, looking at the MSDS sheet for Lionel smoke fluid, I found it I’d JUST AND ONLY JUST white mineral oil, which I can get from the local drug store for MUCH less money.

[@dgattenb]

Possibly with N gauge locos it will cause issues , but only in large amount.. use it small and its fine .

[@jaykay643]

If 3 in 1 oil melts plastic, why did the small cans come with a red plastic pour spout and cap.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

As an experiment we dunked this chassis in heavy duty oil for a year. Nothing melted and it runs great. It's a myth started decades and decades ago when plastics were in their infancy

[@robertnicholson7192]

I have successfully used Mobil 10-30 synthetic oil as a lubricant. Great stuff!

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Excellent, I'm assuming your locks didn't melt, explode, disintegrate etc?!

[@SpottingWithSam]

Well mate you have shown how to wreck a Loco :D nice work!

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Its not wrecked it still runs happily

[@craignicklin4573]

it all depends on what plastic/paint is used, the key is try a bit fist and if no ill effect carry on, but keep an eye on it. and yes i'm a chemist worked in the waste industry most of my adult life.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

We eventually left the entire chassis submerged in cheap Poundland 20/50 oil for over a year, with no detrimental effects whatsoever, the loco is still running

[@craignicklin4573]

@@BudgetModelRailways the major problem i could see is the types of hydrocarbons in these oils could(not would) being of a lower molecular wight could leach some of the plasticizers out reducing the rigidity of the plastic,

[@dodgydruid]

You mention the SA80, we used 3 in 1 on our SLR's and Lee-Enfields, pulled through lovely and kept parts clean and smooth. Sadly I never got to play with the pop pop gun with its tiddly little calibre, nothing like a 7.62 round to give someone a really really bad day ;)

[@BudgetModelRailways]

I shot the. 303 and SLR as a cadet. It's rumoured that the Americans are going back up to 6.8mm due to lack of stopping power with 5.56

[@zan917]

I laughed out loud at the vacuum bag. I don't buy locos that cost much more than $20, so I will take your advice and risk the explosions.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

We were giggling about it for days, sadly some people took the video way to seriously and missed the points we were trying to make in a light hearted way. We even had to block some comments!

[@davidwebster3519]

Thank you for your video, I've just got back into model trains for the 1st time in 20 years. All my trains I got as a kid were old second hand stuff back then so lucky if any of them are even worth a tenner now. Decided to have go at stripping and cleaning/lubing an old motor in my class 37. Now I'm a mechanic and I couldn't really understand why everyone says WD40 is so bad plus I don't have any light oil in the house. So when I saw your video I tried wd. It stopped the motor running noisy and generally worked a treat. Now, I will be getting the correct oil for future jobs but just to get this one back together and to see if it actually works was great. Thanks for busting the myth

[@BudgetModelRailways]

So glad we could help

[@NowAndyPlays]

I have a single 2-4-2 model locomotive and i just lubricate it with machine oil. it's from 54~ and still running strong.

[@johnkuzma7066]

I have found success using a mix of 50% steam talo oil 25% 3 in 1 and 25% rapeseed or canola oil. Its sticky and and doesn't get flung off onto the rails and off of the places you need it. Another plus is its great for live steam engines so there is a prototypical aspect to.

[@47606odin]

I used to use WD40 on old ringfield motors. It was great. Never killed anything. Obviously less is more

[@TheAntisocialTrain]

Did it work on triang xo3 motors? I've got a couple of them as well as ringfeild motors

[@alextopley2657]

I cleaned the wheels on all my DC loco's with a small amount of WD40 and a cotton bud, and was amazed how much better they ran afterwards, I could actually shunt with my 08 for example after it had been cleaned

[@BudgetModelRailways]

There you go, thanks for the support

[@oldworldguy03]

As a machinist ( 20+ years ) - the problem with WD40 is if you don't use it monthly - say 6 months from now it will turn to a varnish type like bad gas after sitting for a year turning thicker and gummy .. I do like 3 in 1 oil , moderation is the key .

[@rogerevoy6191]

I use Mobile 1 motor oil; automatic transmission fluid for light oil; EP 90 rear auto oil for open gears. Mobile 1 mixed with Mobile 1 oil for worm grease.

[@dennis2494]

I found that 3 in 1 oil after a long time can dry on metal parts and leave like a stick varnish like residue which may hinder the smooth operation of small parts, newer oils usually don't have this problem as for the WD 40 I have damaged the hood struts on my car by spraying them with WD 40 , it must have attacked the rubber or silicone seals in them, so on metal to metal there shouldn't be any problem in fact it is great for cleaning off the old grease or contamination before applying a small amount of good oil of your choice.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

After over a year the loco is still running

[@leewilliamson4783]

Totally understand where you are coming from with the SA-80 reference. just like thunderflash fishing. lol seriously though this is a good test and thanks for this, I'm just about to service my locos for the first time. much appreciated!!!

[@essenceofsteam4822]

Hi. I recommend sewing machine oil and a oil pen total cost is about £8 off amazon for them both plus postage and it has always worked for me never had a problem and is relatively cheap. Think it’s about 20 ml of sewing machine oil that it comes in. Hope that helps

[@cardley1744]

The job of any oil is to reduce friction and wear. Compared to a completely dry part any lubricating medium is better than none, including chip fat, diesel, lard, 3in1, WD40. The only downside is the amount of undesirable gunk they'll distribute throughout the layout. I prefer light machine oil hypodermically applied in small amounts to very specific places, but the worst thing is to run a moving part dry. I'd be willing to bet older models are more tolerant of dodgy lubrication than newer varieties. Good demo.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Hi. Many thanks for a really good comment, with some knowledgable content.

[@rhiwderinraytube]

Yes it does contain oil BUT it also contains solvents to get rid of dirt, rust and grease. It is the solvents that do the damage, not the oil. This is especially critical on older MAINLINE locos which use a split nylon bush to hold the driving wheels. The solvents attack nylon and suddenly the driving wheels slip on the axle. So for what it's worth, personally I would only use recommended lubricants like Electrolube or sewing machine oil.

[@terryflynn8830]

The old Nylon gears do not split because of solvents, they split because they are the wrong plastic and absorb oil or the interference fit is to tight. It was the wrong material for the job. I have used WD40 then to Inox MX3 which lasts longer. No problem with gears made of the correct material and correctly designed for the last 40 years using INOX MX3

[@thecustodian3813]

Used wd on my track after watching this and it improved it ten fold, thank you 😊

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Your welcome

[@vikkibarnes6645]

Hornby instruction leaflets TELL you to use 3 in 1. Cheers ; David "Grumpy" Barnes.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

We keep trying to tell people that! Its not the type of oil that causes the issue, its the quantity

[@kevinjennerproductions2024]

I personally use 3n1 Oil to Lubricate my Locomotives, however i use the Household oil varient and it hasnt done a thing to my locos, they run like new. I do use WD40 to clean my tracks as it can get Devilish Steel Track going like Nickel Silver Track. Some of the locos i've lubricated with 3n1 oil sit on the shelf and what happens..., when i run them they run without stalling (meaning I dont have to push them to get them to start) and they run perfectly fine. Never have i tried using WD40 on locos as its too fine for gears, use it for Track cleaning and maybe try loco grease but that may be too much

[@robertnielsen2461]

One word.Well maybe a few.Early on Lionel produced a grease for use on their trains and it was OK,however one of the base materials was paraffin wax,when the volatiles eventually flashed off the wax was left behind.improvements in lubricant chemistry did away with that problem.Todays lubricants are so vastly superior to what they once were,hooray!

[@motherlandone6300]

Very good reminder about plastics degradation in constant exposure to UV light. I might also add as a postwar Lionel collectior that operating plastic knuckles on these postwar 1960's rolling stock couplers degrade over years and years just sitting on the shelves and being exposed to light. You have to replace them on any piece you want to keep in operating condition. But in the case of oiling your trains, relax and oil your model trains carefully. The instructions will explain. Never toss out the instructions.

[@railfan2822]

Couple of thoughts as someone who never even heard the myth until watching this video. 1. Dear god, that poor diesel. 2. I usually clean my locos and track with Isopropyl alcohol, but if there's a tough job, or a loco needs lubrication, I use wd-40. Never had any problems. Not sure why anyone might think it a problem.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

The diesel is still running! Take a look through the comment to see lots of people who think its a problem both with wd40 and 3in 1 , its not though

[@Mjk10957]

Looking at your back ground display and target indercation comes to mind lol , Sa80 a brilliant rifle to be fair i used WD40 on a SA80 and it didn't really do any think. Even used it on my own rifles causes no problems. The problem with WD40 use on a rifle is that it wears off way to quick for it actually any use hence why i don't use it only for cleaning every now and then. My fav one is WD 40 will gum up your rifle it doesn't lol

[@karlyoung3275]

I know I'm late to the party. Used wd 40 on loft finds and seized locos and zx motor oil regularly on my locos for years, using pretty high end stuff too. Loco oil myth made by the companies that make it.

[@jhiv3945]

The 'side effects' do not show immediately. But I have proved that over time, certain plastics as used in model locomotives can be affected by lubricant not developed specifically for this usage. Also, the model you were using as an example had only a very simple drive. In a more expensive model incorporating gear wheels in the drive chain and using detailed valve gear, the dust etc would certainly have caused real problems. Altogether your 'lab' test was rather artificial.

[@quintinbarnhart]

I use a thicker grease on the gears instead of oil, but if its used in moderation, i dont see the issue. Every plastic is different, so maybe there are some that react to wd or 3n1. I enjoyed the video!

[@railtrolley]

Might be off topic, but about the worst thing I have seen for railway models has to do with storage, rather than lubrication. I imagine most modellers are like me, and keep the boxes the models came in. Some models had boxes with a sponge foam insert to store the model. Some even dyed in bright colours. The sponge foam, over time will dissolve into a powdery mess, which will get into everything. The types of mechanisms may have something to do what is the best product to lubricate them. Nylon worm drivers or gears will age anyway and go brittle and break - with or without lubrication. Modern UV stabilised plastics might be better. All brass gears and worms would last best, but would be noisy without lubrication, and more expensive. That said, many modellers are excellent at looking after their equipment, and have models that are 30, 40 or 50 years old and still working. My hat's off to you -although the manufacturers may prefer you to throw away and buy more.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Interesting point, I heard a similar complaint from a retailer of second hand models as well

[@OPHYCLIDE]

I have used WD40 in the past and found that after long term storage I have a jelly residue on gears that wasn't present on other models that I hadn't used WD40 on? These days, I'm not convinced WD40 is much good for anything. I can't think of a single thing WD40 does that another product doesn't do better. To be honest the only thing I use it for now is for keeping drill bits cool! Not sure I buy the argument that "loco oil is expensive" either. It's a few pounds and it's not like you use gallons of the stuff?

[@BudgetModelRailways]

But you only use a few drops of 3in1 and it's a fraction of the cost

[@OPHYCLIDE]

I didn't mention 3in1. ;)

[@C21L01]

WD-40 is only a loco killer IF you don't know what you're doing and 98% of modellers know what they're doing. My Dad uses it in his locos - has done for years with minimal issues. But he did inform me that you do need to be careful with it. You'd have to be extremely dumb to overuse it. Overuse over a long period of time can damage the loco but we're talking decades of overuse here. The locos TELL you when its time for a little lubrication by the noise they make and how smooth they run. And who would be dumb enough NOT to take the chassis off even to oil just the wheels? 🙄🤦‍♀️ Another trick my Dad taught me. That way you don't accidentally get oil on the paintwork itself.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Thanks very good points

[@pactrain9625]

The reason for not using 3 in 1 oil is - it is too thick and gets thicker as it ages. But it works and does not melt plastic. Much better to use a a thin machine oil as used in sewing machines. As you should use a minimum amount a small bottle will last forever. Put it on using a cocktail stick and very sparingly.

[@kevinclose9082]

Great experiment guys! Our hobby falls into a similar category to sailing, golf and other "exclusive" pursuits, - if you want to be in the club you WILL pay through the nose by being led to overpriced "specialist" products which in reality are repackaged regular parts. I have DC layout made from scrap and recycled materials and use inexpensive sewing machine oil on my locos and a poundland fine grade Emery block and screen wash additive for cleaning my ancient steel track. Everything works just fine. Btw what is the great rock track with the video?

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Hi Kevin, so well said. We also use the emery block but hadn't tried screen wash thanks for the heads up. I will get Doug to message you with the music details

[@BudgetModelRailways]

The music is "mob battle" from KZbin audio library

[@iron1349]

That's what my club is like due to its stiff 3% grades.

[@CarminesRCTipsandTricks]

@@BudgetModelRailways I see that your People are MY People as well... Being at it for over 4 Decades, means that I have heard more Stuffy know-it-all Modelers try to tell me that if I DON'T spend a bloody Fortune on my Trains AND supplies - than my entire Layout will self destruct in a massive fireball!!! 😵😜 It's possibly why I don't seem to have many friends in the "Elite Class"...

[@wideyxyz2271]

@@CarminesRCTipsandTricks Lol made me chortle love it. I used to run an 16mm (sm32) line in the garden made from 4th hand equipment and a lot of home made stuff and the doom and gloom comments we used to get about this and that not working or lasting outside was mostly utter bollox! Me and my buddy ran the line for over 10 years in all sorts of weather and only stopped and lifted it because I had to re model the garden. A lot of stuff you hear is chinese whispers and useless at best! Enjoy your models chaps!

[@charlieallen721]

I stupidly did this will it affect my tracks at all great vid by the way 👍!

[@BudgetModelRailways]

You can always clean the track

[@johnslade3104]

Most interesting test. I,ve always used WD40 after I spoke to a company that rewired electric motors, they said best to use WD40. These old locos have lasted for years clearly child proof, so oil no problem well done. Loco bodies wash well in the dishwasher, got 3 done close to 15years ago and still ok

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Dish washer, epic!

[@johnslade3104]

My reasoning if 1960,s loco bodies ok in dishwasher, then oil can not be a problem

[@mirageinthedesert5448]

Its not even that much to invest in an oil pen especially if it is at the expense of any minute form of damage to the loco so just use an oil pen

[@johnpenny5638]

I have a catenary-based layout and WD40 works a treat on the contact wire. A friend (a published author on his own layouts) who recommended it - he uses it on his DCC locos as well as analogue without problems. Nuff said?!

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Really interesting to know that it can be used on DCC as well.

[@admiralsouthdown485]

I have recently revived my fleet of 90's Hornby 0-4-0s. I ran them on a rolling road, and they were stuttering, poor running, and generally crap. WD40 to the rescue, and a microfibre cloth to wipe off any excess, and now they run very sweetly.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

To be fair the newer ones are much bettet

[@admiralsouthdown485]

@@BudgetModelRailways certainly smoother. My 1996 0-4-0 from Industrial Freight now does a crawl. Liberally oiled gears seems to work for me!

[@BudgetModelRailways]

@@admiralsouthdown485 I find a drop of oil on the bearings each end of the motor and a really good wheel clean works wonders. They are great little locos with a bit of tlc agreed

[@imtgamer4500]

We have a shop near us sells only second hand oo gushed and n gauge things I got a sentinel shunter, I’m sure if you were looking you could give them a call and they would post things there based in Southampton called RONLINES

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Thanks will take a look

[@ashfirecapt]

Great vid, you have a new sub here. From a small town in British Columbia Canada,Merry Christmas!

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Hi Josh, thanks for watching, supporting and subbing, hope you enjoy some of our other videos as well. Happy Christmas to British Columbia and all the best for 2018, we have lots of exciting vids planned for next year.

[@Kettenhund31]

The only mishap that I have evperienced with a cleaning product was caused by spraying PECO electrical cleaner onto a Rivarossi motor - the synthetic magnet absorbed it, swelled and oozed out of the holes in the end plates like brown tooth paste. I would therefore be reluctant to use WD40 on the same type of motor although I regularly use it on just about everything else.