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My name is Simon d'Entremont and I'm a professional wildlife and nature photographer from Eastern Canada. In this video, I'll show you the impacts of getting a larger sensor, and if buying a full frame camera is worth it.
I use Topaz Labs software for noise reduction, sharpening and upscaling:
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Music in intro: "Nicer", by Houses on the Hill. Find that, and other sound effects at Epidemic Sounds
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My equipment:
Canon R5 body amzn.to/3S5jtBf
Canon R6 body amzn.to/3ZYu6HC
Canon R8 body amzn.to/3M0Xoj7
Canon R5 battery grip amzn.to/3PVg8Sy
Canon RF 600mm f4 amzn.to/494Zd8S
Canon 100-400 EF II amzn.to/3FhWrPP
Canon RF 70-200 f2.8 amzn.to/45zDP8F
Canon 17-40 L lens amzn.to/3y71MGt
Canon RF 16mm f2.8 amzn.to/3M3i0HI
FLM Tripod (CP 34 L4 II) and Levelling Head (HB 75)
flmcanada.com?aff=sdentrem
Sirui x-k40 ball head amzn.to/3rRzIHf
Sirui lightweight Traveler 7C tripod with head amzn.to/3M0XDe1
Manfrotto Video Head amzn.to/3tpUzBO
Wimberley Gimbal Head amzn.to/3rSijhC
Hollyland Mars M1 field monitor amzn.to/3rQCRaa
Jackery portable 240 lithium-ion battery amzn.to/3QgBmvg
ProGrade Gold 128 GB CF Express amzn.to/46wv40g
ProGrade Cobalt 325 GB CF Express amzn.to/3RSUtNo
ProGrade Gold 256 GB SD amzn.to/48R3CMq
Zoom H1n field recorder amzn.to/3tAoJCE
Comica shotgun mic amzn.to/3REWN73
Rode Videomic NTG shotgun mic amzn.to/3tCeAW8
Rode Wireless GO II mic set amzn.to/45vsIxw
Lenscoat neoprene camera bags amzn.to/3SNiqmz
Lencoat rain cover for 500mm F4 amzn.to/3SGtyl2
Falconeyes F7 LCD panel amzn.to/3y75z6F
Lowepro 450 AW large backpack amzn.to/3xZOHyL
Lowepro Flipside 300 small backpack amzn.to/3SOTWt7
Mindshift 36L (closest available) backpack amzn.to/3ZXIiAH
GuraGear 30L bag for 600mm f4, use Code Simon for 10@% off
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DJI Mavic Air 2S drone (flymore combo) amzn.to/3M3ijSS
B&W circular polarizer, 77mm amzn.to/3SKc6Mx
B&W 2 stop ND Filter amzn.to/3URyIN6
B&W 6 stop ND filter amzn.to/3y6gs8G
B&W 10 stop ND filter amzn.to/3fwRIjs
Blackrapid retro-classic shoulder strap amzn.to/3y0wUHt
FjallRaven trekking pants amzn.to/3rSisSc
Heat 3 gloves (shell only) www.theheatcom...
Heat Company Merino Wool liners www.theheatcom...
HP Omen 17.3" performance laptop amzn.to/3S1vd7O
Synology NAS storage amzn.to/3RVfFSX
16 TB hard drives for NAS amzn.to/3S03Hrk
Follow me on:
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Website www.simondentr...

[@ronjenkins4257]

This is a KZbinr who has earned and deserves the 500k subscribers he now has.

[@InsatiableAppetite-tz1ib]

Absolutely excellent content!

[@flixxfotojenslindner]

Love you comment❤ So true!

[@flixxfotojenslindner]

​@InsatiableAppetite-tz1ib😂😂😂 Not at all😅

[@TwinIonEngines]

There's also something to be said about "The best camera is the one you have with you". I shoot Fujifilm, the AF performance is sub-par, its an APSC sensor, the menus are outdated, the app is wonky. But I just LOVE holding this camera, and using it, and bringing it out, and the lenses are so nice. The camera ENCOURAGES me to want to go out and use it and play with it. I think that's super important too, even if you are a professional! You can achieve anything if you ENJOY your equipment and it makes you happy :)

[@dusty3913]

Most photography sites focus on generalizing everything: camera choices, lens choices, camera settings, camera reviews and what camera is “best for you”. Very few of them even acknowledge that we’re all inspired for different reasons and shoot different subjects. I appreciate that you acknowledge this simple truth.

[@marciosantos1942]

I switched from APSC to Mirrorless Full Frame, and for my case, landscape photography in some difficult light conditions, the performance of full frame to capturing high dynamic range is much better. It helps to preserve dark tones and high lights.

[@johnwinter6061]

I ended up backing both! RP with 25-240 plus R50 with 100-400. Both FF zooms so interchangeable.

[@michaelroberts7329]

Simon, thanks for the best explanation of the differences in sensor sizes I’ve ever heard. A couple of years ago I switched from Canon full frame down to Olympus micro 4/3. The change made sense for me because as an older photographer, I am 67, the weight and bulk of a full frame system was getting in my way of the joy photography. I wanted to upgrade to a mirrorless system and I didn’t have a fortune to spend on the new system. I got two bodies and a good selection of lenses for half the price of full frame. And I’m a happier photographer. I’m pulling my camera out and shooting a lot more than I did before. Different strokes for different folks. And I’m not saying that sometime in the future, I might not get back into full frame for some reason. After all cameras are just tools, and we get the tools we need for the jobs at hand. Again, thanks so much.

[@TheMaheepsingh]

As a new photographer your channel is very helpful. It has helped me not to go down rabit hole of equipment specs and rather helped me focus on my art. Congratulations on reaching 500k

[@DeepThinker193]

You're like some kind camera Guru God, I was so confused as I just bought my first camera the R50 just 2 weeks ago and I was so lost as to why I only get subpar photos compared to my phone. I quickly went down the rabbit hole of watching videos about expenses lenses and lighting gear and I was like Wth the hell am I getting into, I'm broke I'll never afford these things. My head was spinning until I found this channel. The clean straight to the point presentations and clear wording has been my Saviour. Can't thank you enough for clearing things up so much for me. Your video about the Histogram was especially eye opening for me.

[@ionutvlad]

After using Nikon Z50 (crop-sensor) more than 2 years, I switched to full-frame Canon R8. I have been using R8 for more than 6 months now. What genre of photography I do? Travelling, landscape, portraits of my family and friends. I use R8 with 2 main lenses: basic RF 24-105 f4-7.1, EF 70-200 f4. Yes, this combo is bigger than my old Nikon Z50 + 2 kit lenses. But, in my case, it was totally worth the switch (I also often use the RF 50mm F1.8). I explain a little bit: - for travel: the R8 is small enough to get it everywhere. I love how this camera manages a lot of situations: indoors photography (and I love to take indoor shots of palaces, churches, cathedrals etc). Even with the 'cheap' 24-105mm the image quality is much better overall: colors, noise etc. Also, for outdoor, the images are superior: much detailed, the highlights are recovered much better, also the details in the shadows are better. Now, I feel that I worry less about the dynamic range, I know I can recover highlights/shadows information in post-processing. And when you travel and walk the streets of old Italians, Greeks, Spanish towns, it is very comfortable to shots knowing the details will all be there. - landscape: as nature lover, I did also quite a lot of landscape photography. Not for selling, but also for landscape R8 is better (and not having the cutting-edge lenses). The details and the dynamic range make a lot the difference. - for portraits: oooo, yes, here it is absolutely no doubt the change was well worth it. The focus of R8 is amazing, the multiple way you can setup up how the camera will focus on subject is a big advantage. The subject tracking, again the high ISO management (when fast shutter speed needed), all is so good, worth every penny. With R8 I started to love portrait photography. - I didn't do wildlife. Except few tries on zoo, but this is not wildlife, with 70-200mm. And yes, you feel the need to have more reach, much longer focal length. But so far, so good, it is not my main interest. ~~~~~~~~~~~~ Conclusion: using this R8 is a joy, having a camera I can rely on for a lot of scenarios: indoors, outdoors, low light, portraits, speed ... Everything is better, is higher quality, is close to professional work I could do one day with this camera. For me for me it was worth.

[@VictorAldana]

I shoot with an R5, but my wife shoots with an R10. Every time I use her camera, I think “man these smaller form factors are so much easier to handle and travel with!”

[@etiquack]

As someone with an r5 and and rp I totally get this, shot on the m200 yesterday, game changer

[@peteru3357]

R8 much better than r10. I have both still full frame really matter

[@annoholics]

There are of course also smaller sized cameras then an R5 with a full frame sensor.

[@fabenevides]

@@annoholics The R8 is full frame.

[@etiquack]

@@Leah-ju8ht as a travel camera I didn’t think so, I do go to Japan often, I’d still use my rp, but I will say for the m200 used price point and even with the kit lens although not recommended, maybe grab a f/2 22mm and m200 body, it’s pretty good as a run and gun documenting camera

[@medrim2418]

I Live in Mauritania ( a country mainly speaking french and arabic) and I am always eagerly waiting for your videos. What amazes me is that there are KZbinrs with millions of followers who don't have a third of your knowledge in photography. I have learned more from your videos than from anyone else on KZbin, it covers everything and are easy to understand for me as a French speaker. Because of you i ended up investing more than 4000 dollars in canons (R8 + RF 24+105 F4 + 50 mm f1.8 + canon m50 mark ii + viltrox adapter and speed booster + several lenses). Thank you for your work and knowledge your sharing with us , keep up the good work . Sorry if i made mistakes in my comment , English is not my mothertongue language .

[@andrewselbyphotography]

When I moved to mirroless, I went from canon full frame to fujifilm crop sensor, best decision as a wedding photographer. Smaller kit means my back and wrist don’t hurt at the end of a 10 hour day. Cheaper lenses mean I get to experiment with more focal lengths without breaking the bank. And I view getting a deeper depth of field at wider apertures a benefit as weddings can be notoriously dark.

[@PavelR2]

Do not fool yourself - DoF is not affected by sensor size nor by FL used. DoF depends solely on used F number and magnification of the subject. Thus if you take the photo by GFX or m4/3 or anything in between and the subject will be the same size on printed photo or displayed on screen, the DoF will be the same if the same F number is used to take the photo. (Even if it is used zoom lens and distance to subject is corrected to maintain the same subject magnification on zooming - DoF will be the same.) Only FG ~ BG separation will be different because FL is main factor influencing BG blur.

[@andrewselbyphotography]

@@PavelR2 I'm confused, FG - BK Separation is a factor of DOF. DOF does change based on distance to subject and focal length (which is what crop sensor forces you to change). Macro photos can have an f5.6 and only have a DOF of a couple of inches. Or, if you focus on a building that is 100 yards away, your DOF is going to be 100 yards out to infinity.

[@PavelR2]

@@andrewselbyphotography DoF and BG blur is affected by the same variables but by different amount. You can not comapre photo of building and photo of insect - there is only same FL, aperture and sensor size but the subject is not comparable. My example was about shooting person (or group of people) with the same F number: different FL and from different distance (same sensor) or with different FL and different sensor size from the same distance, with the person the same size in the print / on display in both mentioned cases. In that scenario longer FL produce more blurred BG, but DoF will be the same. BG blur is the most affected by FL because bigger FL = smaller portion of BG (narrower FoV) need to fill the frame = BG is more magnified. You can try to input the values in your favourite DoF calculator (change only FL and sensor size and DOF will be the same [for example FF vs 2x crop + halving the FL]).

[@andrewselbyphotography]

@@PavelR2 Okay, I just did a DoF calculator. One for a fuji xt5 33mm at 1.4 subject at 2 meters, and one for a canon 5d 50mm at 1.4 subject at 2 meters. These are equivalent fields of view, so the subject distance and the framing would be exactly the same. The Fuji had a DoF of .20 meters The Canon had a DoF of .13 meters The DoF changed because, in order to get the same shot on a crop sensor, you need to change either your focal length or your distance to the subject. Changing your focal length will give you the same framing. So I still don't know what you are talking about.

[@jamescole322]

​@@PavelR2 you are almost correct: DOF depends on lens aperture (not f-number, which is ratio of aperture to focal length) and image magnification - but on the sensor or film, not in the end print/display. So a larger format has shallower DOF for the same field of view, f-number and image distance because a) the aperture is larger because the focal length is longer for the same FOV, and b) the image magnification is greater onto the larger sensor/film format

[@timothykieper]

My simple minded solution for better bokeh? Greater separation between subject and background. Not always possible, but something to look for when composing the image. Another option would be to choose a lens with a short minimum focus distance. Get closer to the subject to throw the bakground out of focus.

[@simon_dentremont]

same!

[@benejpocock]

@@timothykieper Agreed. Now I’m shooting M43 I think about this more than I used to. It’s ‘easier’ to blur a background with FF, but likewise I’ve never been a fan of totally obliterated backgrounds (I appreciate there are some scenarios where it’s required), and I’m not the sort of person who shoots a portrait of someone from ten metres with them standing up against a fence, and then gets grumpy that the fence is in focus too!

[@scottevers8425]

I went from a Z-50 (Very Nice Camera) to a D850. Zero regrets. The Z-50 was just too small for me to work intuitively and quickly. The 850 is a bit of a tank but it fits my grip much better. A true bonus has been the influx of great used lenses available. Love the channel Simon and congrats on 500,000 plus subscribers!

[@SilvaShadow1990]

D850 team! I went from a D5300 to the D850 recently. My focus of interest is pretty much anything that catches my interest. I primarily like building and landscape photography though.

[@megaredkentadate9834]

Every video from you always contains so much knowledge to learn. The only issue is we all tend to forget!

[@michaelklemm-abraham7298]

Yes, full frame might be theoretically better for low light but then again it is not that simple. I switched from Canon full frame SLR to Fuji mirrorless. It also helped with astrophotography since the Fuji camera does cut of less of the deep red hydrogen alpha line. Later I got a dedicated cooled monochrome camera for my telescope which has a even smaller micro 4/3 sensor. Again no regrets on my side. So from my point of view it is about picking the camera that suits you best.

[@johnwinter6061]

Yep - horses for courses!

[@stratonarrow]

If Nikon releases a z50ii or a z70 with ibis and the modern AF, they will kill it. It’s honestly amazing they haven’t upgraded the DX format mirrorless cameras. The D500 needs a successor!

[@jaygreer7430]

My main camera right now is a Fuji X-T5. I love the small size of the camera and most of Fuji’s lenses. I can fit the camera plus six Fuji lenses of widely varying focal lengths into a small backpack. Even Fuji’s XF 70-300mm lens is relatively small. I shoot a wide range of genres including travel, street, events, sports, and aviation, but only usually as an unpaid amateur for friends and family. I’m sure I’d like the low light capabilities of FF plus Fuji’s autofocus isn’t the best. But I prioritize small size and weight, and I know the camera well and can work around its less than perfect autofocus capabilities. So for now, this Fuji system works great for me.

[@Steveinthetree]

I shoot full frame at work and bought mysef a m4/3 for my personal use. Definitely pros and cons for each. I really love the reach I get out of my Gh6 and my 100-400 lens. Ive gotten amazing shots on my work cameras and my personal cameras. So definitely bigger is not always better, just different.

[@JNeverMindMe]

I'm so glad that you explain in a calm and methodical manner all the differences in sensor sizes. The main myth being that FF cameras give blurrier background just because of being FF, and not because you take the shots differently. I have met quite some people who'd swear that FF gives you blurrier background, without really explaining the Why. Anyway, thank you for the best videos on photography on KZbin. You're a gem. And the 500k are well deserved.

[@samuelvarga3223]

After using a nikon d7000 and d7100 for 10 years, I bought a nikon z6. I mostly shoot wildlife, take basic snaps when traveling and some family photos at Christmas. While both my d7100 and z6 have a 24mp sensor, the reason I upgraded was because of the better lenses. The basic kit lens (24-70 f4) on the new mirrorless system is light years ahead of any crop sensor lens I ever owned. Similarly, the difference in the iso performance of my two cameras is mindblowing. I don't attribute all the gains to the sensor size, because there's also a difference of 5 years in sensor technology. But still, being a pixel-peeper, I very much appreciate the benefits of the new system. (Well not really new. I bought a used z6 that's 6 years old, but still.)

[@Commonyou7149]

Add a 7artisans 50 f1.05 manual lens USD 225 earlier. You will be amazed by the images, only con is it's manual.

[@BreadGamer_Medic]

Congratulations on passing half a million 🎉 you deserve it!! Thanks for all the educational info and advice for all types of photographers.

[@kaywills1089]

I shoot on MFT and FF using Panasonic camera's. My initial reason for choosing Panasonic was I had moved from Olympus FT system camera's and Panasonic offered a better video capability and much more intuitive menus at the time. I chose them for convenience of carry and the astonishing range of available lenses at reasonable prices. When I chose to look at FF, I naturally looked at Panasonic's first. So I bought a used S1R and S1H which easily fit in with my GH5mk11 and GH5s

[@LunkerFishing]

I started with a Canon M50 and also not own a Canon 5D Mark IV. I find myself using the 5D much more than the M50. The photos I take on the 5D are so much better than the M50 even though I am an amateur and still learning. The M5 has many features of more options that newer cameras have but the 5D has taught me so much as a (amateur) photographer.

[@bryankee7213]

I recently upgraded to a canon R8. It’s great for what I do which is mostly landscape photography. I love these videos as an amateur who is always looking to learn you are very instructive and a great teacher.

[@sophietucker1255]

Several years I went on a workshop shooting eagles. I had three cameras a Canon 6DMKII, 7DMKII and Olympus OM-D E-M1X. My best eagle images were from the 7DMKII with the 100-400 and 1.4 extender. That said my best inflight image was on the Olympus with the 300 Pro lens. While camera choice is important that choice is more based on the end use. If you “really need” a full frame so you can crop that actually says more about how you shoot than anything else. In the end I believe my images were the result of having 3 really good cameras, the best lenses available, a sturdy tripod and a good gimbal head than the sensor size.

[@mbr500]

As a crop sensor Canon user I appreciate your giving time to the topic. Not surprisingly you’ve hit 500k so quickly. Best from Texas!

[@Chris_Wolfgram]

I'd say, it totally depends on ones uses. I owned FF DSLR's WAY back in the day, and they were great for landscapes, or anything I could get close enough to. My first mirrorless camera was the R5, and it was a fine camera for a lot of things, but shooting mostly small birds, I was constantly struggling to get enough reach, even with an 800mm lens, 100% crops were the norm. Finally I rented the crop body R7. Loved it so much, I bought one. Then the R5 sat on the dresser collecting dust. Finally I sold it and bought a second R7 for my backup. That was 2 yrs ago, and I've never looked back. Shooting with the 800 F11, I now have a 1280mm equivalent reach, which after close to 300K shots taken with this combo, feels pretty normal to me. Can't wait to get the 200-800 (on order) which will be everything I have now, but WAY more versatility. I've actually already rented it, and I consider that lens, on the R7, to be the Holy Grail for small bird photography. For myself, 'upgrading' from the R5 to the R7 was a great decision :) Big congrats Simon, on the 500K subscribers :) You have a fantastic channel, and I always have to watch new episodes as soon as you post them :) Thank you :)

[@marcocegarra3068]

Recently went from a Canon M50 to Canon R6 for Automotive and Motorsports Photography. Full frame allows me to catch more of a scene, not just a car filling the frame. Absolutely love it.

[@charlesscott6202]

Congratulations! I used Canon APS-C cameras for 10 years for landscape and some wildlife. I bought the original EOS R when it came out because of the mirrorless features and improved noise characteristics and dynamic range. Most of my images are long exposures of Bald Cypress trees/knees in lakes. In this type of photography the scene dictates the field of view needed so full frame provides more options. But getting closer also reduces the depth of field. As a result I sometimes need to either use a smaller aperture, focus stack or let the background go out of focus. It just makes me have to think more about depth of field. There are tradeoffs when moving to full frame. I still use APS-C for birds and wildlife but now have the R7 for the eye tracking.

[@Penicks]

i switched from sony a-mount apsc to a-mount full frame and those full frame lenses i was using on apsc finally feel less claustrophobic and confining and more 'natural' to me. i find this beneficial in pretty much every situation and have no regrets, sold the entire apsc kit afterwards. illiminating another conundrum ("hmm, do i take my ff or apsc body with me") is definitely freeing

[@donperegrine922]

What does it mean? How come a full frame lens felt claustrophobic while in an ASPC body?

[@Penicks]

​​@@donperegrine922crop factor. a 50mm becomes an 80, a 17mm a 28. as a result some good lenses get seriously compromised and limited in their usability. it's like closing your eyes in a room and when you open them the wall is way closer than you initially had anticipated

[@donperegrine922]

@@Penicks ooh, so when you went to the full frame, the field of view opened up? That makes sense. I have a Canon ASP-C, and native lenses (EF-M) the 15mm designation feels just a little too tight. I need 11mm, at 15 I am always open against that stopper.

[@toruisalive5499]

I shoot with my RX10IV for so long now. I sometimes forget it's just a one inch. Yea! One Inch, even smaller than APS-C, I love it so much and the only upgrade I see is the ability to use prime lenses. I don't care about the sensor at ALL.

[@DanaPushie]

Nobody does it better Simon. Congrats on breaking the 500k threshold. It comes as no surprise. I'll stick with APS-C, Canon and Fujifilm, because of my photo interests, the smaller form factor and lower cost; it also allows for purchasing more glass. Kudos to you Simon.

[@Heymoe666]

I use a Canon 5D4 and an 80D crop sensor with 70-200 and 24-70mm lenses, respectively, for photographing musicians and theatre productions. The combination seems to work well for tight shots and full stage.

[@cameraprepper7938]

That depends of what use you need. If you do most Macro and Bird Photography, then a 40 megapixels APSC Camera will be very nice, but if you do fx Landscape Photography, then a 60 megapixels full frame Camera will be very nice.

[@makrofictions]

Hello from the Philippines, Simon! Your videos are a great help to novice photographers, especially those like me who's about to buy their first camera.

[@Satoscio]

I mosly shoot landscapes, urban architecture and I've been lately getting into street photography. I switched from a Canon EOS 200D (or SL2 in North America) to a Sony A7C because I liked the idea of having more choices for wide-angle lenses

[@Beaver-be8vk]

I have both. 😉 But I wish Canon would make a professional R7. I would pay quite a bit more for a R7 with a stacked bsi sensor and better auto focus.

[@Chris-NZ]

I have the R5 and the R7 , I see the R5ii now has a stacked sensor so give it time the R7 will eventually 😀.

[@mootpointjones8488]

Excellent explanation. I use M4/3 as my camera body and a couple of lenses are easily transported on my bicycle or motorcycle. I have thought about switching to a slightly larger APC camera but that's a new set of lenses to buy so I'm sticking with my M4/3 set up. By the way, I also own a tiny Sony RX100 and it produces beautiful images. Thanks for the upload 👍

[@AlbequerqueJoe]

After shooting with my gf's Rebel T7 crop sensor for a year, I decided to get my own. After months of picking through details, I settled on the EOS RP full frame. I've taken it in the woods, to the beach, to the city. Wonderful camera for my area of Nova Scotia in the south. I picked up a 2nd hand 70-300 and have even gotten some good shots of wildlife.

[@mikafoxx2717]

Amazingly good camera for the cost.

[@TomatenDK]

That "I know you can do it ! ;) " always leaves me with a smile :D Love your videos Simon - wether you need the tips in the video or not, its always fun to watch them 💪

[@auxmike718]

Full frame is the way to go👍🏼 I love when he says his name!😊

[@denisturcott5131]

I have three crop senor canon cameras. I have used all of them and just have no need to buy a full frame camera. I use full frame lenses on them and get results that fills my needs. Since I sell my images I only get asked what I use from fellow photographers. The people buying the images don't care what camera or what editing software I use. They just want the image that fills their heart. I have always been a believer that the most important factor is the lenses and not the camera. I shoot wildlife and enjoy the reach I get with them. I also shoot other kinds of things and use lenses that fit the occasion. Even more important is the person behind the lens can make it work with what they own. The only time I would consider a new camera is when I have a need for one and can make enough to warrant the perchance price. Thanks for the info and keep it coming.

[@Nofanboyz]

I am almost 63 and with several disabilities. In my use case, M43 with 150-400 + 1.25tc + digital lossless doubling gives me 2000mm. Safe to "creep up to crocodiles" that way, or lions.

[@huantruonginh2946]

I just bought a 7D mark II to complement my 6D mark II for wildlife photography and muah… best decision ever!

[@tommynikon2283]

68 here; been with Nikon since 1974- that said, I use both formats; 810s (FX) and a D500 (crop). The 500 is for high FPS; the crop factor= my glass is 1.5x magnified/POV. A 200-500mm tele is now a 300-750mm. At some point I’ll add a used Z body….because some features of mirrorless are too good to ignore. FWIW: I haven’t bought a NEW camera body, ANY format, film or digital, since 1978; EVERYTHING used…, from hobbyists, LOW use.

[@zandzak90]

I went from 7d to a 6d plus now the Canon 70-200 is usm f4, best choice i could ever make! This combination gives me so much more benefits using it in low light and still get crisp result!

[@Vase0I0]

Congrats on the 500k. Well deserved! My favorite photography channel by far!

[@simon_dentremont]

Wow, thanks!

[@RonL2023]

Surprised it's not 5 million! Many haven't discovered you yet. Simon by far has the best and most useful training and info videos! Very easy to understand and the way he describes everything is crystal clear to understand by even people that have no knowledge of any of this subject.

[@Vase0I0]

@@RonL2023 couldn't agree more

[@donaldmorgan1773]

I use a crop sensor Canon R7 for wildlife pics. My favorite subjects are birds. The smaller sensor seems to work great for my purpose.

[@MasticinaAkicta]

Having both, even a 1" sensor system somewhere. I can tell, it depends on your usage . For the best quality, hard to beat Full Frame. But it does comes with bigger bodies, bigger lenses, and so on. APS-C is a great middle point for good enough quality and easy to take with you. For most pictures it is more then fine. And smaller then APS-C, well... it has its use. I can put that 1" sensor camera in my bag and still have better image quality potential then a camera on my phone.

[@DBqFetti]

I see it this way: Since every Nikon (I use Nikon) crop camera is 21 mp and because a 45 mp cropped down full frame is 28 mp, the full frame can capture everything an aps-c can, and more. And I rather have an uncropped image and crop it later by hand, than an already cropped image in the first place. Still, I would mostly recommend aps-c to friends. To me, size and price are not so important. But for most others, it is. And the differences are big. Aps-c is definitively the much better price vs. performance.

[@benejpocock]

Great video Simon - you speak a lot of sense and say it exactly how it is. After getting back into photography recently via a Fuji X-H2 APS-C, I then got intrigued by M43 so also tried out an OM-1. Down the rabbit hole I went. M43 is poor, no good in low light, poor image quality etc etc. But, for what I shoot (which is essentially everything), and how I shoot it (generally with a young family in tow), I'm really valuing the small form factor of the M43 system. I went to an airshow yesterday with my OM-1.2 and 40-150 f2.8 (so 80-300 FF equiv.) and didn't even realise I had it with me. Seeing the guys and girls with FF and massive lenses on the front really made me realise that I just couldn't lug that around all day with everything else I need to do (and I wouldn't want to either). That doesn't mean anyone is wrong, it's just a case of to each their own. I can see the benefits of FF in some of my shooting situations, and I may well now offload the APS-C and get a FF for certain scenarios - in effect having the benefits of each system at both ends of the scale and ignoring the one in the middle. Either way the most important thing is the size of your sensor doesn't make you a better photographer - you do. Pick up the camera you have, go and, shoot it, and most importantly LEARN IT. That'll make you a far better photographer than continually buying 'better' gear (and it's significantly cheaper too!).

[@breadandcircuses5644]

I started this year with the Sony a6700 three zoom lenses and a prime. It all fits into a 20l backpack which is amazing. To me low light performance is mostly about fast enough lenses, so I tend to favour aperture over focal length when buying. I shoot street, landscape and wildlife. So far it is an amazing APS-C experience.

[@randolphcroft4212]

I moved from Micro 4/3rds (Olympus) to Sony a7R3 and others for one particular purpose - low level light, hand held - cathedrals (seriously) like Sagrada Familia and St. James etc. That was my primary issue. And it only took a couple of years of whining. To myself. Newer m4/3's do a far better job than what I had 6 years ago, but it was the output/print-job that drove my 'evolution'.

[@vesamounttiloiri]

I just upgradee to R5 from APS-C and the lowlight performance increase blew my mind, definetly worth the upgrade. Sure, for my wildlife photography I'm losing a bit of focal length but I'd rather take that and then crop the image in post compared to having extremely noisy pictures when shooting in low light.

[@Warrior_Resisting_Colonialism]

Yeah, it's like using a cheat code in a video game, isn't it? Bye, bye, grainy photos.

[@jtinoco9859]

I liked how you presented the advantages and disadvantages of both sensors. It’s a matter of what you photograph in my opinion. I bought a Fujifilm X-T5 crop sensor and I’m very happy with it. I used a Canon EOS RP for many years with some EF and RF lenses. The cost of a newer full frame body and RF lenses made me reconsider. At the end the Fujifilm system I owe now it’s more than enough for what I do as a hobbyist. The smaller size and lower price was very attracting without to mention its 40MP size. Thank you for the video.

[@DiveBC]

As an underwater photographer I decided to go with a full frame camera when I was new thinking of the low light aspects of the sensor. in reality I need much more light to get clean images with a full frame sensor due to needing to shoot at F11 or higher. The issue is with a wide lens (16-35) a dome port is needed. A dome port projects a curved image in front of the camera which is where the camera actually focuses on not the subject its self. Being a curved image depth of field becomes and issue if you want anything but the center in focus. A smaller sensor camera can get away with a smaller dome port or the same size dome port but because of the crop factor the projected image is flatter. The flatter image allows for an aperture that is lower for a clean image thus requiring lower light for a given ISO. There are other benefits to shooting a full frame camera underwater but it does make the system much larger.

[@Photo0021]

I hopped from Micro Four Thirds to FF and I'd absolutely call it an upgrade. But I had a GX85. If you have something like the Lumix GH7 or G9ii paired with high quality glass, they're beasts.

[@CallMeRabbitzUSVI]

Funnily enough the GH7 is larger than a lot of Full frame cameras, and pales in comparison to the likes of a Sony A1 and Canon R5. Sure they are more money but that's not the argument here. And if we are talking about money the Nikon Z6 iii gives it a run for its money

[@simon_dentremont]

…proving the axiom that « the best camera is the one you have in your hands ».

[@bigd7696]

I always wanted a GX85.

[@Photo0021]

@bigd7696 I love it. Only wish it had a better grip, but that's easy to fix with third party accessories.

[@bjrn-einarnilsen687]

Great video Simon. I almost bought a R6 mkii, but in las minute i changed to a r7 because i realised that if i bought the r6mkii, i to upgrade the lens too. I use the 100-400 mkii, that is a great lens, so the combination of the r7 and that lens goes very good together. Of course the r7 have some drawbacks, but hopefully the r7 mkii will soon come, and probably with a staked sensor, so that will be a great upgrade. Wishing you and yours all the best. Cheers, Bjoern

[@doorkum]

Thank you, this is the first time I heard an explanation that make sense regarding background blur between FF and crop. All the KZbinrs would just say about the sensor, it didn't really made sense to me since the difference would not create that effect if it's just the sensor.

[@Kabivelrat]

The reason why larger sensors are better for low light is because of the larger image they record you can use a longer focal length lens to capture the same image and because lens manufacturers know how to make lenses with a given F-stop that longer focal length lens will have a larger aperture or light collecting element at the front. And THAT is the reason why more light is collected per image dot. The cone of light captured is larger. Essentially the entire camera including the lens is simply scaled up and becomes larger including the light collecting element in the lens. So instead of a 35mm f1.8 for APS-C you would use a 50mm f1.8 for full frame. The latter lenses light collecting element is roughly 1.5x bigger in diameter and 2x bigger in area so youre collecting 2x more photons/light per image dot. The field of view will be exactly the same for both cameras using these different lenses - even the image brightness per area is the same, but because the image area is larger with the longer focal length lens there is more light.

[@golden4523]

I heard the word equivalency and got flashbacks lol. That's a conversation I never wanna have as someone who shoots M4/3, APS-C, Full Frame and Medium Format

[@simon_dentremont]

it's an automatic argument...lol

[@golden4523]

How to loose your friends 101

[@Tallermage]

I upgraded from my d3100 go a d7100. Most of the knowledge that i put into practice was stuff i learned from your videos! I thought i would drop photography like i drop other hobbies but its beem consistently fun

[@danncorbit3623]

The D7100 is a wonderful camera and it takes beautiful pictures. That is my only APS-c camera. You can get some incredible cheap glass for the D7100 with legendary D lenses like the 180mm D and the 60mm D macro (the holy grail for macro being the 200mm f4 D, which is as good as any macro lens on the planet). You can always check out images for specific lenses on flickr. And of course, there are plenty of nice G lenses and even cheap as dirt AI-S F lenses.

[@denisnicholson2528]

I use a Nikon D700 for full-frame. I shoot social dance events and most of the time, the lights are turned down and people are moving quite fast, not to mention the dance venues can vary from a HS gym to a rustic barn. Having a FF can give me a true 24 or 35mm FoV, with the added benefit of a 1.8/1.4 aperture. I love my D500, but the D700 helps me out tremendously.

[@johnwinter6061]

An excellent summary of the differences. 'It depends' is so true. Simon has proved it and others have said it. Re bodies & lenses Body weights and sizes are decreasing. So too for lenses. Eg Canon's R series (mirrorless) 24-240 and 100-400 are lightweight FF lenses but price competitive with APS-C lenses! If you are thinking APS-C, you could still choose them and keep the FF option open for later on! Quality is fine. Far better than typical kit lenses. Lots of reviews around say so. My move I had a ten year old Canon 600D (18MP APS-C) with Tamron 18-270. Loved it. I do travel grab shots. So an APS-C upgrade would probably have done me. Instead I got a Canon RP (26MP FF) and Canon 24-240. Why? I did NOT lose 'reach' over my old gear. Crop of new gear better IQ than full image of old gear. Regardless, most of my pics are in the 24-200 range on FF. So reach not critical. The difference in price for FF bodies and lenses in mirrorless is narrowing fast. Mid range APS-C options can be dearer than entry level FF options! Got some discounts on the RP + 24-240 too good to refuse! That FF v APS-C price gap is shrinking regardless. I gained IQ over my old gear. Over new APS-C? I added an R50 for super-reaching. Not a body I'd recommend for regular use. So far FF better IQ. I LOST a few hundred grams in weight! Though the separate flash added it back. So I'm weight equivalent with a better flash and FF advantages. With mirrorless I get a better image in the viewfinder of what to expect. Got back what I liked about my Fuji 6MP mirrorless from 15 years ago! I didn't need most of the features found in mid-range bodies. eg 15fps+, better video, etc. The RP has more than what I had before. So how did that all happen? More MP? 18MP went to 26MP So probably. Maybe later technology pixels too. FF pixels (larger) v APS-C pixels (smaller)? In low light, yes. Otherwise maybe. Even the belief that larger pixels are always better is being challenged! New lens? Probably. My old one was 10 years old and collected a little inside dust. Manufacturing technology is always improving. The lens served me well. Moving from Tamron to a budget Canon lens? Unknown. My old Tamron v a new Tamron may have been similar. At the time Canon did not allow third party R series lenses. Change from mirror to mirrorless? Yes. Mirrorless allows for smaller and lighter bodies and lenses v mirror bodies. That means cheaper v mirrored bodies! (Reverse for second hand!) New firmware / software. Yes. Lens correction now happens in the Canon's body. Which is exactly why Simon started with 'it depends', introduced the factors at play (when just one factor changes) and then leaves it up to you. Perfect. As others have said too. And what have I now done? Added an R50 (APS-C 24MP) and a Canon 100-400! Got them on discount. The R50 is too small for everyday use for me. But it's good enough for the odd super reach shots I might take! 400 x 1.6 = 600+! I'll leave Simon to do the super IQ, super reach shots! Maybe I should have just bought his African Safari shots instead? Now if I wanted / needed an L lens with F1.8, then my budget would have said APS-C!

[@Sowerbylads]

I started my digital photography journey with an apsc. I bought full frame for the greater angle of view and better low light performance. I have kept my crop sensor where I need greater reach. Have recently bought a 150 to 600mm zoom so on the crop sensor will now be virtually redundant as I wish to try my hand at wildlife photography and the better low light performance from full frame will give me faster shutter speeds with lower iso and hence less noise. Back in the film days we called this a grainy image. Can look okay in certain situations especially monochrome rather than colour.

[@Hordes_Of_Nebulah]

I do urbex photography so I definitely benefit from having a full frame mirrorless camera. There is just way too much variability with lighting going from dark basements to outdoor sunny scenes within minutes. I'm usually chasing those high contrast shots where light is flooding into a dark space from a single source. The downside is size and general bulkiness of course. It is noticeable when maneuvering through some tricky environments. It doesn't help that I'm also carrying an old 60s Nikon F SLR in addition to my Sony.

[@rpvfr]

I have been using ASPC Nikons for years (D3300, D5300, D7500) Started to photo dryland sled dog racing in poor light; first tried the Z50 ASPC for 'real time' exposure and faster frames rates; now have gone FF with the Z6, low light performance is incredible! Also image quality in good light and faster shutter speeds make the FF a great camera! Still use the Z50 for the extra reach with a 300mm lens. Great channel and videos :)

[@richardvallonjr.6716]

I shoot Sony full frame as there is little to no noise at high ISO and for events the flash is far more accurate than other brands... I use Canon full frame in my images for an antique shop where I keep a set of studio lights...

[@difinitytheonly]

I stepped from a Contax 35mm to a LUMIX G7 M43 - still use my Zeus’s lenses, considering the 2x factor. Just replaced the G7 with a G9II. Full frame chassis, M43 sensor and mount so I can still use the same kit on it. 30% larger form factor, 30% more pixels and increase in sensitivity. Learning how to use the features properly and do not have any issues with shadow/highlights - always controlled those in Ps anyway. Love this new camera body. Use what you have and learn how to use what you have for your preferences.

[@andysheng4435]

Hi Simon, I really love your videos. I've just recently bought an old near-mint Sony A7II to upgrade from my Nikon D5000 which was APSC. I mainly shoot street photography and sometimes live performances, which I felt the D5000 was particularly poor at. When I set the ISO beyond 1000 or so I could see the noise and the loss of details. I was under a budget, but I had a lot of old manual lenses, and owning an A7II really made me felt like shooting "digital film". I felt the upgrade was worth it for me, but I also do feel the extra weight and complexity of the new camera.

[@rafaelmartinvannostrand2084]

This videos are really good to explain why you need full frame and why you MIGHT not need it. The thing is if you're starting with photography buying a cheap second hand camera has millions of possibilities and it's better than anything any great photographer of the 90s and before have available

[@guicane]

this guy deserves an oscar or something, so easy to understand!!

[@chiranjiviacharya13]

Its simple, if you are wildlife photographer or sports and want better zoom range. Just go for the crop sensor cameras. If you want better low light capability then go with the full frame. A lens that is f/1.8 in full frame is going to be around f/2.8 depending on what crop sensor camera you have. And you will get shallow depth of field with the full frame cameras. There is a reason every sensor size exists. There is not one sensor size that is for everyone. Depends on what you want it for.

[@christof4105]

f1.8 on FF ist f1.8 on crop. Also deph of field stays the same.

[@chiranjiviacharya13]

@@christof4105 Yes, the exposure will be the same. But you will notice the difference in noise.

[@chiranjiviacharya13]

@@christof4105 While the exposure will be the same at the same with same settings. Because "f/"is one thing, and its the t-stop that affects the light that hits the sensor. The "f/" is the relation between the lenses focal length and the diameter it has. So if you take canon ef 85mm f/1.8 lens, it will be 85mm f/1.8 lens on full frame, but on canon apsc lens it will be 85 x 1.6 = 136mm and the diameter of the lens will be the same, which will lead to higher f/ number then f1.8.

[@christof4105]

@@chiranjiviacharya13 thats not true. exposure, bokeh and focal lengh stay the same. Simon demonstrated it in this very video and in others too. The f-stop that has nothing to do with sensor size. It is a ratio of the focal length and the aperture of the lens. You´re talking about equivalency in visual appearance and that is a whole different thing. Edit: Yes, difference in noise indeed.

[@chiranjiviacharya13]

@@christof4105 As i said above. There ts "T" stop which affects the light more then the "f" stop. And you will notice the difference in focal length. It's not the same using 85mm on full frame and on apsc. You will get more zoomed in photo with the same lens in apsc compared to full frame. Take a full frame camera and apsc camera and try it by yourself

[@Stan_the_Belgian]

I switched from ff to apsc, fuji, but currently selling my fuji gear to go back to ff. Good lenses are also heavy on apsc if you want the same dof. Ff also isn't heavy anymore, check the r8 and even r6 isn't so heavy

[@MrRensan404]

Clear explanation as always. I actually use both full and crop frame sensors. Each has a unique advantage over the other. For longer reach, I prefer APSC cameras, but for better bokeh on portraits, Full Frame is my choice. If I go for a hike, APSC and their lenses are lighter to carry.

[@shuttermar2132]

Best photography channel on KZbin!

[@samelogio7441]

A very good and honest presentation . I shoot with both full frame and micro four-thirds. Both have their benefits. When used in the right situations, they both produce great images.

[@alexanderbyfield6077]

I first bought a Canon 4000D, then a 250D. Most of the money I committed to photography went in to lenses such as my Canon 400mm f/2.8 L IS II USM, which makes a great combination with my 250D. It's honestly surprising the superb quality you can get from a cheap camera, when it's mounted with an expensive lens! I decided to buy a Canon 6D Mark II for the full-frame experience. I use both the 6D Mark II and the 250D for different FOVs mostly on the 400mm lens, but the 250D has an edge on small insect macro photography when a speedlite is used, though 6D Mark II is preferred for larger insects like bees. I've got a Canon EF 600mm f/4 L IS II USM hopefully coming soon, in which I plan on mounting it with my 250D while the 400mm has the 6D II. One for long distance, the other for lower light or much closer, larger subjects. Both frames are good!

[@batuhancokmar7330]

I don't know if this still holds true, but back in Nikon F era, there was a clear quality difference between APS-C and full frame lenses. For 24-70 f/2.8 Sigma, Nikon, Tokina, Tamron all offered great options with their own pros and cons. For APS-C equivalent, 3rd party 17-50 f/2.8 were all garbage, and while Nikon's 17-55 f/2.8 was optically good, it was 1mm longer than Full Frame Tamron 24-70 f/2.8 and only 25g lighter, plus Tamron had VR while Nikon didn't. Putting such heavy lens on a lighter body actually made camera front heavy and 250g weight advantage is as negligable as carrying a cell phone.. Same applied to fisheyes and 70-200 equivalent lenses. IMHO, This made APS-C only good when paired lighter and slower lenses for better transportability, and Full Frame an upgrade for IQ however you look at it.

[@Ericbjohnston5150]

I was smart. Back in the day I bought a 40D. All my lenses were ef. When I finally went 5Dmk4 I was all ready set up with glass.

[@camerond8176]

Lots of information here...................Dynamic range is the biggest difference here, as all the others can be adjusted by the photographer on site when taking the picture. Besides, it's much better to zoom with your feet or a lenses than with a crop. So if budget allows let the lens do the zooming, if it doesn't you must use your feet.

[@georgfritz]

My first Full-frame Canon 5 D Mark 2 ,is the only Full-frame Digital camera I use for low light landscape photography. It still a lot of fun

[@KhojimurodY]

I use APS-C Sony a6400 and still love it. My best go to lens is Sony 50mm f1.8. I had great quality photos and videos even at night. If you know how to use it, you can squeeze this camera capability. I’m already looking for a Sony a6700.

[@trigriversnlakes5959]

I recently made a huge jump from a Canon R10 to a Canon R5, and wow! The difference is apparent, but the lost of focal range is as well. I am a nature and wildlife photographer, but will take on any challenge. I can confidently say that it is great to have full frame, but currently being limited to only 500mm isn’t the greatest at times.

[@tiger93rsl]

I went from a Nikon D90 with a kit lens to a Canon R6 Mark 2 with a 24-105 F4 L USM lens. I shoot nature, wildlife, astrophotograpy and skydiving photography. All I can say is wow! I wish I would have upgraded lenses on my D90 first to really see the diffence in a kit lens and a pro lens. There is no looking back for me full frame is the only way to go.

[@KevinNordstrom]

I've shot both FF and apsc as a bird photographer, and a crop sensor has its benefits. Lighter, smaller, more reach, cheaper, and with some cameras like the R7 are packed with pretty decent specs. Full frame will give you better low light performance, though, With modern software, you can easily fix that in post. I can not tell the difference what sensor or what camera was used on a cpu, phone, or on social media. The lens you use is more important when it comes to IQ, sharpness, and the distance of the subject to the background for the same blurry background on crop sensors. I think both have their applications. As you said, it depends on what you shoot and how you shoot it. Here's hoping the r7mk2 has a bigger buffer, stacked sensor to eliminate RS, better weather sealing, and a battery grip. My r7 is fantastic, especially paired with the RF 100-500, but it falls short of what it should have been. An apsc in a Pro body would be a dream for many wildlife and bird photographers.

[@christophercarlimages9003]

Never gonna happen. Canon can't even put a high mpx sensor in a pro body!!

[@KevinNordstrom]

@christophercarlimages9003 unfortunately you're not wrong lol. One cam hope though right lol.

[@GoldtriggerDude]

I'm an enthusiast-level photographer. I use a Sony full frame frame for macro and portraits. I love bird photography as well. As for that, I use a Canon R7 (APS-C) with various zoom lenses for extra reach.

[@simon-d-m]

Full frame for me! I recently bought an R6 II, and used to have a 6D (mk1). Previously I had a Pentax istD and Canon 30D - both were APS sensors. Coming from 35mm, they were frustrating (early digital SLRs), and I really missed the wide angles I used to get, and hated the noise. The change from the 6D was because I needed a smaller, lighter weight body: the 6D was too heavy and unbalanced my panoramic mount. The R6 II is teamed up with a Laowa 15mm lens (possibly a poor choice, as its flair performance is quite poor), and the large sensor cuts down the number of frames I have to shoot for a full spherical pano (it's now 28 or 29). The jury is still out on the Laowa: horrid flair and considerable vignetting, but it _is_ low distortion. I was delighted when a test pano stitched beautifully on the first attempt, and it's really nice to be using a totally manual lens again after so long. For general photography, I can always crop from full frame, but not make a cropped sensor bigger. This affects bokeh, and helps me with wildlife framing. Clever AF is marvellous, but the one thing it can't yet do is point the camera in the right place!

[@HolySettu]

Just bought a sony a7 iii im new to all this but im having so much fun just capturing moments in time!

[@seaeagles6025]

Hi Simon, i made the right choice in using an APSC SENSOR as i photograph Planes and Birds. As i take photos as a hobby and an enthusiast I'm more than happy with my APSC. this video was useful to me as i learned that the size of the Sensor does not directly alter an image to make the Background blurrier. Congratulations on 500,000 Subscriber's, a great achievement. Many thanks for this video. 😊

[@seaeagles6025]

Thank you Simon ☺️

[@notallaboutmeministry3285]

I bought the Canon 5D Mark lV full frame and the difference from my Canon 70D crop sensor is that the full frame does a lot better in low light. I like shooting natural light with lighting as needed and I shoot family portraits, landscapes, and animals. I really like my 70D for close up shots and well lit places.

[@johnkorth8599]

I recently made the switch from my R10 to my new to me R6. I already had several full frame lenses, so not having to rebuy full frame lenses was easy, but I had to re-learn how far away I need to stand with my lenses. I mainly shoot abstract street photography, like multiple exposures of a statue or, or intentional motion blur, or lines and shapes of light, or reflections from puddles or mirrors. The little bit of extra weight doesn’t really bother me and I like having the option to record Raw to one card and Ljpeg to the other, which helps with storage, both on my memory cards and my devices/cloud/external storage. I don’t notice much of an image quality difference but when I’m in challenging lighting conditions my R6 has less noise than my R10, even when using the same lens. The only thing left for me to do is test the weather sealing on my R6 by getting out and shooting, the R10, while having no weather sealing does fine as long as you don’t abuse it and take reasonable precautions in accordance with the weather and environment you’re shooting in

[@jeffolson4731]

Great video and explanation. I shot wildlife with both a Canon R5 and a Canon R7. On most days I have both with me. I have the time synced to make sorting easier when I get back home. I can just dump all the images into one folder and arrange by time so I ensure they are in the correct order that the images were taken. I start with my RF 100-500 on my R5 and my RF 200-800 on my R7. Granted, this second combination isn’t one a lot of people like but it works for me and I am happy with the results. This combination lets me have an affective FOV from 100mm to 1280mm. You can probably guess how I use this combination. When I have a small subject that I want to “fill the frame”, I use the R7. To make my life easier, I normally use the R5 combination for BIF and objects that are very close. I rarely shoot at any distance to avoid atmospheric distortion.

[@David_Quinn_Photography]

I love using my APS-c, it's so much lighter and the gear is more affordable, half tempted to buy a M4/3 to get a little more reach out of my APS-c and FF lenses

[@SRay-or3nc]

I am so glad that you publish this video at this time, because I have been struggling with the idea of getting a full frame camera. I shoot with a Nikon D7500. I think I would rather go to a mirrorless so I can relieve myself with some of the weight of my Nikon. I knew that a full frame would just be more weight, but I didn't realize the difference of how the photos look. I was looking at a full frame because of having more light and I often should an old abandoned houses. I think I would just rather go mirrorless or just get some really good lenses for lowlight situations. Thanks again for all the great info you share which other photographers are not willing to do! 😊

[@SeRgU123]

I started about two month ago with a Canon SL2/200D, so the compactness is a charm and it takes pretty nice shots. Currently with a 55-250 stm for wildlife and the kit for landscape. I guess if in the future I want to switch to full frame I'll try to look for something relatively compact like the r8

[@robertpanick2660]

You asked for comments about switching from crop to full frame. In my case I currently shoot with the MFT Olympus/OMDS OM-1, and I was considering on switching to a Nikon Z8. The Z8 in many ways is similar to my OM-1, both are jacks of all trades. Both can do high res landscape (OM-1 using sensor shift), both shoot fast bursts for sports and wildlife, and are both very good general purpose cameras. Cost wasn't much of a factor, all of the lenses I have would have paid for a smaller set of lenses for the Nikon, but typically f/4 instead of f/2.8. The improvements in lens weight, quality and higher ISO shooting, make it possible. Each system has its advantages which I won't go into. But my main reason was thinking of moving to Nikon over OMDS was my concern that OMDS may not keep up with the improvements in technology. I'm fairly certain that Nikon, Canon and Sony all have better AF than the OM-1. It's a question of will new technologies that make things easier for photographers (e.g. Canon's R1 sports tracking modes) be something OMDS will be able to keep up with. Thom Hogan was even raising the question if Nikon would be able to keep up, his verdict was probably. But in the end I decided to stay with the OM-1. Main reason, moving to the Nikon wouldn't currently improve my photography substantially. I am still the weak link. Perhaps in two years I'll reevaluate my decision. BTW, I really enjoy your videos. I know most of it, but every now and then I pick out something I didn't know or a different perspective.

[@A861967]

I have all 3 😊 love all 3, Olympus ep 1, Fujifilm xt1, Sony a7iii the biggest difference are the lenses and the low light ability off the full frame. Use my xt1 as a carry on when cycling, waterproof and easy to replace, Use my Sony for low light and fast moving objects. As for lenses cost … FF are cheaper especially 2nd hand.

[@parmanduke]

Use the Fujifilm 56mm f1.2, 75mm f1.2, 90mm f2, or 50-140mm for portraits and you won’t miss ff what so ever. Full frame is better in low low light. Other than that virtually no difference

[@RG-rm9jt]

Honestly for travel, APSC is great. Now, if someone could please figure out how to combine Fuji's X-H2 body, with Canon's firmware and subject detection, with Sony's lens selection, that would be great. The only reason I left fujifilm is that they don't have a super telephoto prime.