Is it crazy to use 30lb snag leader as carp hooklink?

[@massebioingwer]

Best Man in the Game. I'm from Germany, i watched all the Videos and learned so much from him! Thanks Matthew ✌️

[@matthewcollinsangler]

Great to hear, thank you 👍

[@Mark-ih7hk]

Brilliant insight and info as always. Your videos are always high quality and straight to the point, love it!

[@matthewcollinsangler]

Thanks very much mate 👍

[@christianlugerbauer4181]

Works really well especially with a running setup. Went diving a lot the last two years and this rig always lays very nice on such a setup.

[@matthewcollinsangler]

Nice to hear 👍

[@leonardhillman5565]

I 100% agree with everything said in this video , I have only used 0.40 clear nylon for my hooklinks for the past 30 years and its never let me down , 99% tangle proof 👍

[@matthewcollinsangler]

Very nice 👍

[@Charlie-g3j7b]

I started this a few years ago after watching one of his videos, it just works . Try it

[@Argento261]

Basicly i'm doing this for over 20 years. I just tye a normal hair into the knotless knot and some silicone to fix it on the hook. Used amnesia back then, now i use mono for chod rigs, nash fox etc. I use a hinged stiff rig for pop ups, i can use it for all my rigs then. I also don't have a problem with using my snagleaders, all good. I noticed some cuts in the fishs mouth from coated braid hooklinks, thats why i use thick mono, since then the cuts stopped

[@Kb11466]

After going way too ocd over rigs, what I’ve learnt is there is no perfect rig. Matts rig here is perfect for anti tangle and resetting, it really is! However mechanically it’s probably only very effective about 180 ^ degrees from the bait side. Fish approaching from lead end the mechanics drop a fair bit. I fish a slip D rig for the most part looped onto a ring swivel, which is better mechanically 360 degrees, however more tangle prone, less effective at resetting. Find what you’re confident in and stick. Matt’s rig here is essentially an old school amnesia D rig, which has an awesome track record and something I’d use happily. Especially with nuisance fish around

[@jonathanobrien2103]

Must admit - I started on mono 40 years ago. Tried every other thing since - but now I’m going back again. I fish a water stuffed full of crayfish - 100% guarantee the rig is still presenting fine

[@Toronto_James]

Depends on the fishing situation. Bottom substrate, baiting situation & bait being used - all can change effectiveness of the rig. Try fishing a different hook link / rig / hook pattern next to each other & see which one gets the most bites. I have done it for years & whilst there are days it works, there are plenty that it doesn’t. Biggest difference is cold clear water where the diameter put them off. Switched to 10lb mono & got instant bites. (Ask any matchman about hooklink diameter). When fishing near some snags, I had my hooklink snap break on me once last year - stiff mono cut through when I really put the pressure on. Cost me my target fish. Sure it works but everything has its day. The best anglers are the ones that work out what’s right for the day they’re fishing & are able to switch things up instead of persisting with a single method…

[@matthewcollinsangler]

Interesting to read your experience mate. I've done plenty of experimenting in my fishing, and still do of course. I also get to see a wide range of skills and abilities at my lake with visiting anglers which gives me a lot of insights. I blanked for 3 weeks on my lake in February a couple of years ago and it was my longest blank ever on this lake. I got sloppy, my plan wasn’t good enough and I stuck to it for way too long. I worked the problem, made some tweaks and things clicked into place, I’ve got a video on that. Having said that, rigs made with thick mono are for me the most consistently successful rigs on a wide variety of venues, and the best place to start, because there’s nothing that can go wrong, so for anglers who may have issues with casting or landing a rig, they’re a very solid choice.

[@Toronto_James]

Big difference between “a great starting point” and “this is the only rig you need to use for your fishing” I’ve had days where a stiff mono hooklink, exactly the same as yours out fished everything else I put in the lake (and those around me). Next trip I couldn’t buy a bite on it. I tied one up with the hook on a loop & got bites again… far too many factors into why rigs work don’t work on a given day & that’s what makes them fun. I’ve even found changing a hook pattern has gotten more bites for me before. Like what you did with the mono attaching the bait though - looks stronger than floss for when there’s crayfish about. Will be trying that for sure!!!

[@rogercude1459]

Most carpers are using similar without realising, all that flourocarbon boom crap is all sea gear re named and Carp Tax Added 😂

[@mattm4600]

I've tried tangling a spinner rig on purpose and couldn't do it, never tangled one tbh or heard of one coming in tangled. Boom resets as good as anything in my experience

[@TheRolf88]

Off course it all catches carp. The question to ask is:”what is the hook to land ratio”? It’s a guessing game. I always fish with the Willem Kwinten rig, it has superb reset properties and includes a small subtile section as well which gives great freedom of the bait in any direction. The problem I have with this rig is that If a fish comes from the side of the lead, the fish is probably unable to suck it in because of its stiffness.

[@sharkeyes]

Alright matt was just wondering if you use snag leaders on your actual reel or are you fishing mainline straight through or tapered ect, be great to see a video about leaders specifically, thanks for the great advice as always mate, Collins the carp wizard 🧙

[@matthewcollinsangler]

Hi mate, I use a snag or shock leader in 2 situations: either to cast further or to get more abrasion resistance. I mostly use the Nash heavy duty mono snag leaders in 30 lbs (0.50) but occasionally I have to up that to 40 lbs (0.60). My advice is, if you are wondering whether or not you need a leader, you don’t need one. Leaders solve specific problems. If you aren’t cracking off on the cast and you aren’t losing fish due to the mainline failing on rocks then a good quality mainline is all you need. The 15 lbs (0.35) Armourline is a good all round choice but I also use the 12lbs (0.30) for distance and the 25lbs (0.45) verison when the going gets tough and distance isn't an issue. We are planning to do a video on leaders at some point. I did try taper lines once and found them unsuitable for my needs. In the meantime I hope that helps. Cheers, Matt.

[@ThierrySaucourt]

👍

[@teamrieslingboilie2172]

100% Yes, simple but deadly

[@matthewcollinsangler]

Cheers mate. I've yet to find a situation where this approach doesn't work 👍

[@joshushillman6248]

Been using 40lb leader material for my booms on my combi and spinners for years cheap as chips

[@danielpolsinger7565]

Interesting as always! Can you do a video an bombproof pop up rigs sometime?

[@matthewcollinsangler]

Any mono hair or mono d can be made into a bombproof pop up rig with the addition of a counter weight, split shot or tungsten sinker like I show in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gWGkZXqJfZWtapY

[@jensmatthaei3293]

Sir, according the season, will you do a video on where to locate carp in winter under thin or more or less important ice layers? They must be concentrated somewhere in a ground-hole, but how to locate them? I've been measuring temperatures on the ground from 1- 4°C, but no decisive result came up.

[@matthewcollinsangler]

Tough to find the carp in these conditions. What I would do is pick 3 spots, and have a go. If I don’t get a bite in 24hrs, I pick 3 new spots. If I catch from one spot, I’d have another go there. I’d use the other 2 rods to search around for other possible productive spots. It’s common in winter to only find one productive spot (depending on the size of the lake).

[@pallotaikurit]

Hi Matt form Czech. Have you ever used the diameter .40 or .50 mm with the smaĺler hook? I mean size 8. Does it wor? Great job, so more👍👍

[@matthewcollinsangler]

Hi, the limiting factor is the size of the eye of the hook, but if I wanted to use a small hook, I'd want the rig to have more movement so I'd use a thinner mono anyway. For example, I use a size 8 Nash chod twister with 0.35 mono, yes, you could use 0.40 but not 0.50.

[@pallotaikurit]

@ i do it the same way. I also mean, that .35 will by OK with size 8. .30 mm also. But sometimes it can be thin for some situation. Sometimes i also use hook kicker and it works great with mono also. Thanks, hi from czech. ✌️

[@SuperBigcarphunter]

No, years ago i used 34 lbs amnesia to make my stiff rigs, they worked exellent !!!!

[@matthewcollinsangler]

Ah, yes, Amnesia, a classic and reliable material for sure, used it for years also.

[@LureLogicOfficial]

I bought a 0.5mm mono leader and it cannot pass through the Korda Wide Gape hook more than 2 times to make a D-Rig. I even struggle a log to pass it the second time to complete the knotless knot.

[@matthewcollinsangler]

Hi mate, the Korda wide gape has a small eye as you've found. 0.50 material works great with the Nash chod twisters in size 6 because the eye is bigger 👌 Also, I wouldn't use an inturned eye hook with mono because it closes down the effective gape of the hook.

[@LureLogicOfficial]

@@matthewcollinsangler Thank you for the reply, I will get myself a pack or two of chod twisters.

[@massebioingwer]

@@LureLogicOfficial I use the Quantum Radical Hooks in Size 4. No Problem to make a D-Rig with 0,60mm mono.

[@roelanddejong8770]

Most new products on the market aren't put on market to catch fish. It's there to catch fisherman.

[@alencosic3765]

Let's agree to disagree

[@matthewcollinsangler]

No worries 👍

[@Lukas9877]

Use an underwater camera to prove what your saying

[@Scottymol]

He has done tank test videos with this set up

[@BoesBoes-83]

Results speak for itself. Also he has zero reason to fool us with this setup. Unlike all those underwater videos where they are trying to sell you something.

[@andrewwing5086]

I often wonder with rigs, have we struck oil, but keep digging.

[@matthewcollinsangler]

Simple rigs have always worked and always will 👍

[@matthewcollinsangler]

Cheers mate 👍

[@Lukas9877]

1st

[@petershaw7124]

Sorry to say death rig will rip their mouths out if tethered to line or carp killer lead core use a lighter hook link than main line surprising what you land on 12pound mono and more bites

[@danielpolsinger7565]

Not true at all.

[@matthewcollinsangler]

Hi Peter, first of all I want to say that we both have the same goal which is carp safety. As a fishery owner, I have seen my share of death rigs unfortunately. The fact that my hooklink is stronger than my mainline doesn’t make it a death rig. But you raise good points. A death rig is any rig in which the lead cannot safely and quickly be separated from the rig if the mainline breaks. The number 1 priority is to make sure that a carp cannot trail a lead. And the best way to make sure that doesn't happen is to fish with running rigs which is all I’ve fished for for the last 15 years and all I recommend on this channel and to anglers fishing my lake. Secondly, I agree that a hooklink or mainline can break, these things happen unfortunately, and we need to do our best to avoid that. But if it happens, and you’re fishing a running rig, the carp will either trail a short piece of hooklink or a longer piece of hooklink/mainline and nothing else. The extra length of material that the carp is trailing is not an issue. What matters is that the carp can easily get rid of that hooklink or line and the best way to do that is to use barbless hooks. I changed my lake rules from micro barbed to barbless 4 years ago and I can see the difference that change has made. A thick, strong hooklink is actually safer than a thin hooklink that can cut and damage the delicate corners of a carp’s mouth. Regardless of hooklink thickness, the safest way to fish is to fish running rigs and barbless hooks. The point of this video is to suggest that if I had to choose 1 hooklink to use for all my fishing, I’d choose 0.50 mono over anything else. I’m using 0.50 mono because I need its anti tangle properties. If I’m not casting very far then of course I’d happily use a 12lbs hooklink because 12lbs is absolutely strong enough, even for large carp, as long as there are no snags. 0.50 mono is also a material I recommend to anglers struggling to cast or struggling to land a rig and feel the donk. Although a 12lbs hooklink is suitable for small waters, if I were to try to cast a 12lbs (0.35) hooklink 100 yards, the force of the impact with the water will tangle it around the lead and make it useless and potentially more dangerous. I know because I’ve tested this extensively. Lighter hook links are only relevant to the world of match fishing or fishing a runs water that is stuffed full of small carp. In the world of specimen carp fishing, a thin mono hooklink is usually a very poor choice which is why I recommend the use of a stronger and more robust material.

[@petershaw7124]

@matthewcollinsangler did not say thin dia high breaking strain carp gorroting braid also it's common to stop the lead on impact or use a safe heli or 1 or 2bait stringer to accommodate tangle's lastly it's usually the last 6 foot of line that gets cut off on snags leaving the carp towing your untangled 30 pound plus hook link with meat hooks then raps it self 10 times round a snag rips the meat out Thier mouth buts it's ok using barbless catch at al costs, try having a bit of sport or use a bait clip from sea anglers