This shows the work of a fishery manager and what it takes to keep a lake and carp healthy (this is a business)

I’m not surprised you were a bit short! The 10000 reducers have a capacity of 392m (427 yards) of 0.35mm. You need to add at least 100 yards of 0.35mm backing line to each spool to make those numbers work, or buy a 2nd spool.

Great mate, I'm not saying it's anything new but not all anglers know this simple trick.

Hi mate, I use a snag or shock leader in 2 situations: either to cast further or to get more abrasion resistance. I mostly use the Nash heavy duty mono snag leaders in 30 lbs (0.50) but occasionally I have to up that to 40 lbs (0.60). My advice is, if you are wondering whether or not you need a leader, you don’t need one. Leaders solve specific problems. If you aren’t cracking off on the cast and you aren’t losing fish due to the mainline failing on rocks then a good quality mainline is all you need. The 15 lbs (0.35) Armourline is a good all round choice but I also use the 12lbs (0.30) for distance and the 25lbs (0.45) verison when the going gets tough and distance isn't an issue. We are planning to do a video on leaders at some point. I did try taper lines once and found them unsuitable for my needs. In the meantime I hope that helps. Cheers, Matt.

Yes absolutely

Hi mate, thanks very much and luckily, we were far enough from the main area affected 🤞

That's brilliant to hear mate and congrats!

It's tricky right now mate, looks like they're out of stock everywhere at the minute, hopefully they'll come back in stock soon.

Hi mate, you need to space the spools out so that the spools are opposite one another. That way, the bail arm is winding the line onto the rotor and the line is coming off the feed spool over the lip and this eliminates line twist, and, yes, if you do it that way, you can use the same method with mono too. I still have and use my Shimano Ultegras 😊

Hi mate, thanks for subscribing 😊 That reel is the Nash BP4 but the range has been discontinued. Today's equivalent is the Nash GT4000.

Hi mate, that's great to hear! The venue is exclusive only with self-catering accommodation for groups up to 4 people. We don't do individual bookings or drive and survive. If you want more info, here's the website: www.frenchcarpandcats.com. I'm definitely always around, we live close by and I do onsite tuitions. Cheers, Matt

@ Matt that’s fantastic. I would love to meet you and pick your great carp brain lol . Been watching your videos for years and I can honestly say you have made such an impact on how I fish and my catch rate it’s incredible. Will have a look and hopefully get a booking very soon . Thanks for the reply Matt much appreciated

@@JoeMorrell-c6y My pleasure mate and that's really fantastic to hear. If you have any questions, we have an online chat system or a contact form on the website 👍

Great to hear mate, the video coming in a couple of weeks is another BTS of running the venue, hope you enjoy it too.

It's all about options and what gear you have. If you have a throwing stick and can use it accurately, then yes, that's what I'd use.

Hi, you can use this with a PVA stick but if you want to use a solid PVA bag, you should use an inline lead, here's a video on that: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ioGmp3iooax6kJI

Fair enough! I was doing a day session and we were filming a bunch of stuff.

Hi Sean, wow, that’s a long time away from the sport! The 40 acre venue that you’ve described sounds like a serious challenge so I’m not sure it’s where I would want to start if I was getting back into the sport although the buzz you’ll get from catching will be massive. You need some good strong mono like the 20lbs (0.40) Armourline. I hate to say this but it sounds like you’ll need to drop the lead on the take due to the weed. In this case I’d use the Nash run clip (video here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mXTTfWl3mciYhdk). This gives you all of the benefits of a running ledger plus the ability to drop the lead. Tie each hooklink directly to a regular size 8 swivel and use an anti tangle sleeve over the knot to help to kick the hooklink away from the lead. Do not use the run clip if rules state rig tubing only. It should only be used naked or with a lead free leader material like the 40 lb Nash Cling-on. Don’t forget to change your hook links and hooks very regularly as hook sharpness is everything. Regarding your question on boilies, I can’t help you. Boilies work everywhere, I catch on boilies whether the lake is pressured or unpressured, rivers, big reservoirs. I have a lake that sees angling pressure every day for 7 months and anglers catch on the same boilies week in week out. You can catch carp on all sorts of baits but a good boilie will always catch carp (as long as you do everything else right), flavour etc makes no difference, that’s the angler’s preference.

Yes, we will mate 👍 In short, after passing the material through the eye of the hook, fold it in 2 and tuck the tag end through the eye to make the loop. Close it down to the length of the shank and whip the knotless knot over the top. Cut the tag end. Fold the short loop away from the shank to kick it out.

@ okay thanks mate I have really bad dyslexia. And your videos help me a lot I will try it tomorrow and let you know keep up the amazing videos 👍🏻

The lead clip was designed to drop the lead on the take which is bad for the environment, expensive and not the most effective way of fishing for carp. Plus, if set up wrongly, they could be dangerous for the carp. That's why I only fish running rigs and I have several designs on this channel. Running rigs offer 3 main benefits: you get better bite indication, they are more effective than lead clips as the carp can’t throw the hook and you don’t lose the lead which is better for your wallet and the environment.

No, not at all. That’s why I use a lot of stiff mono (0.50 - 0.60) in my fishing. What will ruin how any bottom bait rig sits is any time you add a supple or hinged section to section. That is why you’ll virtually never see me using coated braids or combi rigs in my fishing.

Hi there, I’ve got a video on this topic which should help you: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oJCxhKB3Z6inh7M. Make sure you check out my other longer videos that will help you keep your fishing simple and effective. Good luck on your journey! 🎣

I message a reel service engineer when I get stuck. Try Mike Reddy on FB 👍

@ cheers mate

Very nice 👍

Absolutely brilliant to hear mate 👍

@ keep it mate you don’t relise how many anglers have heard of you and watched your content. Legend mate

If rules state lead clip only, then they want you to dump the lead on the take so you don’t need to add a rotten bottom of any sort. Also I think what you’re proposing is too complicated and if you make it longer it's asking for trouble (tangles). Just because it’s silty doesn't make any difference. Just use a lead size that doesn't plunge deeply into the silt in the first place.

What do you think about all the main companies showing videos and promoting constant lead dumping Matt. It really infuriates me, I’ve been told by a few people it doesn’t impact the lake or environment at all but I find it very hard to believe fully

@@Kb11466 I am totally against the automatic dumping of leads, that's why I only fish running rigs and it's all I show on this channel. They are more effective at catching carp anyway and it's not good for the environment. Dumping the lead should only be done in very weedy waters in order to safely land the carp.

Hence why I have moved to ecofriendly alternatives. Lead is poison, end of.

Yes it is and it can still be a very useful technique 👍

Shame, hopefully they'll be back in stock.

I get what you’re saying when comparing coated braid with supple braid. But if there is a risk of a tangle on the cast, I’d rather use mono, it’s cheaper, super strong, abrasion resistant and doesn’t tangle. For me, coated braid doesn’t offer benefits over mono.