Is This Dumpster Hisense TV Worth Repairing?

Is this Hisense dumpster dive TV worth repairing?
My money is on a dodgy T-con board.
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#ElectronicsCreators #Repair

[@tlhIngan]

TCON boards are Timing Controller boards. They're there to adapt the LCD timing to the video processor timing. Back in the old days, you'd traditionally hook an LCD controller up to the display, and then you'd have to configure the controller with the exact LCD timings as provided by the manufacturer. So you'd have to figure out a suitable pixel clock, then appropriate front and back porch settings to make sure that your screen is centered (get the front/back porch setting wrong and the screen will be off-center and usually it's not obvious). Or drive it at the wrong frequency and you'd get weird artifacts showing on the screen like rippling and shimmering. This was compounded even worse by all the LCD controllers out there so in the end, the manufacturer datasheet served as initial values you'd program into the registers, but it almost always never worked off the bat and you have to tweak and adjust by trial and error until it looked right. And if you ever played with display timing formulas, it's a big mess of math trying to get all the parameters right. Sharp was one of the first back then to pioneer the use of TCON boards - I know because everytime we'd consider a Sharp panel, the first consideration was the expense of the LCD control board (TCON hadn't quite become common vernacular yet). But the purpose of the board was basically to standardize this a lot - the TCON board had specific timing, but in general, as long as you got close, you got a perfect image. Use of TCON boards accelerated with HDTV adoption as HDTV display timings are well standardized so what happens is that the video processor board would then output a signal that was basically standard and input it into a TCON board which would adapt it to the precise timing that particular LCD display required - the panel manufacturer would tweak the TCON board timings to what the actual physical display required then basically bundle the display and TCON together. This also provided a measure of isolation between the physical LCD interface itself and the interface to the video processor - which is vital as high speed signalling is quite tricky and TCON boards often have massively parallel output cabling so the only high data rate comes from the video processor to TCON board and the TCON board then converts that into a slower data rate for the panel itself by sending multiple pixels of data at once. As for what's wrong, I'm almost certain there's no electrical fault with the display. It's a software fault. The Hisense logo is being displayed by the bootloader, but the bootloader is unable to load the main display firmware OS (probably Linux to handle "smart" features - hence the Ethernet port). So one of the blinks happens when the bootloader transfers control to the kernel where the video output is briefly disabled and then re-enabled, and the rest of it is probably when the kernel tries to load the TV application and either it crashes or the application crashes and is attempting to re-start. When it does this, it starts to tear down the display framebuffer, but crashes before it's able to display anything and leaving the framebuffer intact but the shadowing caused by the hardware being deinitialized/reinitialized. It's not worth fixing, but it might be useful for an exploratory video - Dave just got a piece of electronics he doesn't care about, so go wild exploring around - perhaps there's a serial port header to which one can poke around with. There's nothing worth saving, so it's worth it just to have a "play around" board where you can pretend to reverse engineer the board and "hack" it. And if it lets out the magic smoke, so be it. I say don't make it a repair video, make it a reverse engineering and exploration video, teach people the ways of things like JTAG and serial ports and I2C and other things. Solder things to it to explore signals. It's worth it because the electronics is probably working, the software's corrupt (and you probably can't fix that - I don't think Hisense makes the firmware available), so explore around with something you don't care about, you don't know anything about, but is essentially working. It's how people reverse engineer stuff all the time except if you screw it, it costs nothing and you learned something.

[@SlyerFox666]

Amazing knowledge! Thank you for sharing I really enjoyed reading. 👍

[@chewyboy]

I second this idea

[@electronicsanta8149]

Yep. Well said

[@andycristea]

If it's a common chasis, like a Vestel, it could be fixed via USB. Firmware is available on some dodgy sites.

[@ltsiver]

If you ask support, you might be able to get the firmware - if hisense still has it. Older stuff they may not keep the files around.

[@robinsattahip2376]

I fix a lot of crap that's not worth fixing and convince myself I'm having fun doing it. That's what an electronics hobbyist essentially is.

[@povilasstaniulis9484]

Display side is probably OK. It looks like the OS is stuck in a bootloop. Hard to tell what's wrong without seeing the actual bootlog. There should be pins for UART or JTAG somewhere. My very wild guess is it's either bad eMMC or corrupt NVRAM.

[@spazmochad]

It's likely stuck in a boot loop. Taken from AV forums: Hope this helps others when stuck in a boot loop... - The TV loop can be paused for 10-20sec by holding down any button on the remote. As soon as you let go of the button it reboots. - You need two remotes, Get either a learning remote, spare remote or Firestick remote that is setup to control the volume. Hold the volume up button on the spare remote to pause the loop. - using the original remote press the menu button and quickly go down to about and factory reset. Have to do it quick. Sorted.. Until the next time at least!

[@hadibq]

👍 good to know.TY

[@sandeshchhetry2993]

I have an exactly similar Hisense unit. The problem is the TV works fine for some time and out of a sudden the screen goes off with sound and backlight on. And, when I power off and turn the TV on, it starts working fine and the problem repeats randomly. What do you the problem is?

[@spazmochad]

If you haven't tried already; Unplug the TV and leave it unplugged for a few minutes before plugging it back in. If the problem still occurs try and factory reset. That will rule out any software problems. Hardware faults: If it's still a problem try a different HDMI cable or port (if using HDMI). Make sure the TV is away from sources of heat, the panel may shut off if it overheats. If you shine a torch on it whilst it's off but the sound is on and you see there's a picture, that will tell you if it's a backlight power issue. Anything further to this is likely going to be a hardware issue with the main/power/backlight board.

[@paulwhite8433]

Re-seating all cables is worth a try - I've resolved glitchy LCD issues before by just removing / re-inserting all cables. Bad contact could easily disrupt the clock / a data line.

[@EEVblog2]

Tried it, it's not that.

[@coreybabcock2023]

Agree

[@KeritechElectronics]

If it's not a high end scope, it's not worth taking :D I once got a dead 50" Blaupunkt TV from my friends. Recapacitulation, EEPROM programming & swap, and it's good as new. Took me 30PLN (ca 7 yankeebucks at that time). Now it makes a lean mean movie watching screen.

[@sandeshchhetry2993]

I have an exactly similar Hisense unit. The problem is the TV works fine for some time and out of a sudden the screen goes off with sound and backlight on. And, when I power off and turn the TV on, it starts working fine and the problem repeats randomly. What do you the problem is?

[@KeritechElectronics]

@@sandeshchhetry2993 that might be image processor's power converters, or the chip's BGA going awry. Can't tell without checking...

[@santi308]

Hi Dave, I'm from Argentina, I work in a technical service workshop, and that Hisense brand exists here, together with Konka brand (which is more dodgy than Hisense). They are matrix tvs because here the government import those from China, and here in Tierra del Fuego they deal with assembling and rebranding them with Tophouse/Noblex/Philco/Jvc/Tcl/Hitachi... (there are a lot) oem ​​brands that are the most common to see. And they use hisense, AUO or Chimei Innolux panel assembly (or display only) for others tvs including philips/aoc brand, we use leftover parts what we have on hand at the moment. In my opinion this TV has two flaws and not one. The fact that it stays at the logo and does nothing else is a firmware problem, that's easy to solve in 98% of cases with a flash drive, the other 2% is more complex, the deal involves desolder the bios spi or worse, the emmc nand flash, rewrite them and put it back on (not worth fixing it if a emmc is envolved) but that is not the image fault, and here is why. That exact same image failure I see that often on several tvs in working condition, by mean not having boot loop or any problems with the software. So in my opinion not a software only problem, and is not the smps or the main board, the fault is directly the display panel or something odd in the attached pcb, the T-con i don't think so, but who knows. Maybe a data line is shorted as it happens in Samsung and Sony tvs that double/triple image appears, to fix that you need to cut the stvp stv ckv ckvb data lines (a new display is the real solution but is too expensive or not available) by doing that you lose some definition, however in a full hd 1080p is not too noticeable. In samsung and Sony I do it more often but in these other televisions I do not repair this type of failure those are not worth it. Cheers!

[@tolgainci]

It's always worth repairing since you're making a KZbin video out of it. I've seen people repair much less significant things and make an interesting video.

[@TrevorsBench]

I agree, a repair video is always valuable to someone plus the knowledge gained is priceless

[@JonnyMac351]

Yep that's what a watch these videos for but seems to be happening less of late.

[@reacey]

Good comment

[@Luka7517]

I agree, plus if you do make it work, you get yourself a free tv!

[@TheDefpom]

It’s always a crapacitor Dave

[@MartinRepairs]

1. firmware corrupted 2. solid caps don't bulge usually, in my experience, high esr usually. Try checking with oscilloscope. 3. nvram corrupted? desolder, write FF with programmator and solder back in. Usually very small memory size in sop8 package (backup the content incase...). 4. sometimes menu is unaccessible when hdmi cable is not connected, you could try that. Then in menu, factory reset. Googled abit and someone on avforums wrote that they asked for fw from Hisense and they provided, worth a try? It would be alot more interesting you fixing the tv, i know its not worth much, but you get interesting content for the channel and someone potentially searching for a fix might stumble on your video. Know it might be alot more work, but for the greater good?

[@richardhalliday6469]

Hisense, Vestel, TCL, UMC, COMPAL are all huge consumer electronic companies who build for all the major brands throughout the world with the exception of LG and Samsung ( who also manufacture in China amongst other places) however they do share their screen technology with other OEMs. In short - you don't know what you're buying behind the badge.

[@tookitogo]

Re: Samsung: I thought so too, but I read recently that Samsung doesn’t make its own TVs any more (or at least, doesn’t make its own panels any more; I forget).

[@girogiacomo]

@@tookitogo doesn't make lcds anymore, they are going all-in on oled

[@vgamesx1]

@@girogiacomo Which is a shame, I personally hate oled because of burn-in, I don't enjoy having to baby stupid modern displays to keep them from going pink.

[@girogiacomo]

@@vgamesx1 take a look at the new qd-oled tech from samsung... LTT has done some great videos on the topic and apparently they are confident enough to have solved the burn-in issue that alienware is making gaming monitors with samsung's panels... try to search for "samsung just made everything else obsolete" it's sponsored by samsung so take it with a gigantic grain of salt but it seems really good, so good that linus bought a sony tv with that panel tech as his main tv in his house

[@richardhalliday6469]

@@girogiacomo You're drifting from the subject , the discussion was regarding the mass budget to mid range product.

[@ltsiver]

"dodgy hisense thing" - looks down, watching Dave talk about dodgy brand Hisense on a Hisense TV....

[@morantaylor]

It was common for the cheaper tv's flash to corrupt. you could try reflashing firmware.

[@cmdstraker]

Where would you get a firmware image for something like this?

[@Handlebrake2]

@@cmdstraker lmao

[@goldcrownkingmod]

Any time I’ve had this image issue on a monitor or graphics card it’s ALWAYS a capacitor. Even if a cap isn’t blown or buldging it’ll still create issues. The t conn board Can be an issue, but as the glitchy image is present on both sides of the screen evenly you can determine that it’s something before the t conn. It’s also possible the Hisense image is a screensaver waiting for input?

[@SionynJones]

I was going for the LEDs the TV will enter shutdown mode if it suspects there's something up with the backlight. The flickering is obvious symptom of some dodgy as LEDs.

[@UrbExGear]

@@SionynJones sometimes ceramic caps on the flexes on the matrix itself go bad and have same signs - power supply powering up tv for a second with no backlight then shutting down.

[@Peter_A1466]

Heating the capacitors up (a bit) with a heatgun is usually more effective than cooling them down... Cooling is good if a device works initially and then stops.

[@DLSDKING]

I dont suspect an eletronic fault but rather it could be ROM corruption as the flicker pattern is similar to ROM corruption. I observed this on phones and tablets where the system boot loops and gets fixed post ROM reflashing. at 3:48 i see a UART port (conn name: XP3), may be you can hook up an FTDI Dongle and check the dump.

[@RK-kn1ud]

I personally can't relate the flicker directly to the corruption of a memory chip, but not getting past the "boot screen" may be indicative of such an issue.

[@EEVblog2]

Was does it change with time?

[@RK-kn1ud]

@@EEVblog2 That is a very good question that could only be answered by finding the answer.

[@TonyJewell0]

I would probably have put the feet back on with the back cover off to get it on the bench.

[@timturner7609]

My favorite thing about Dave's repair videos is that he repairs things the way I do. Open it up, "yeah, there's some caps and chokes and stuff. Voltages are probably fine. I dont see any problems, so it probably can't be fixed"

[@EEVblog2]

It's not that it can't be fixed, it whether it's worth spendign the time to fix it or not.

[@j.w.8663]

I think Tim knows that.. 🤣

[@hadibq]

how I wish I can spend time investigating on issue like the old days when I had plenty of personal time, I used the love the moment something breaks 😅

[@mastertravelerseenitall298]

@@EEVblog2 Anyone can fix anything given enough time and money. Great Vid!

[@whatthefunction9140]

Fix it Fix it Fix it

[@ChannelJanis]

to me looks like a chip reset issue - that boot screen flickering might be rebooting and showing boot screen all over again. Display and all dumb logic might be fine, but the smart part with data and stuff might be dead. More like task for oscilloscope and probing data lines if you know, what you should see. But I doubt it is worth doing that except trying to save the earth from more junk and then giving it away to a family in need.

[@wrtlpfmpf]

Try to get to the console. It's typically available on a header or via the headphone socket. (often the output will be open collector) That way you get a rather intuitive command line with help and I think even auto-completion. It's likely to run some m-star (or mediatek) firmware. I used to have fairly decent Grundig which died when one of the flash chips developed a fault. You could nicely see Linux booting and then the set shutting itself off when it detected the file system error. Reflashing didn't work.

[@paulstubbs7678]

Check the main 240v filter caps, had an Aldi tv where it got stuck at power on, I think it was getting reset 100 times a second, but got better after it warmed up.

[@georgec7798]

Hi, I have a 50 inch Hisense Android tv, 50H8G, board number 261423, 261424, RSAG7.820.9615/ROH and I was wondering if there was a bios chip on it. If not, what component on the board does the firmware write to. If it wrote to an Ic chip then I could unbrick my TV and write directly to the IC. My TV has a white light of death after an update and I tried all fixes and nothing works. Thanks

[@IvyMike.]

Would the feet go back on after the rear panel has been removed?

[@electronicengineer]

Yes, the feet clearly mount up to the internal metal structure.

[@steven-george]

Since these are basically a computer. I would take this as faulty Video RAM. Since in this case it is likely shared as System RAM, it is causing corruption in the display, and possibly the boot failure. Is it worth fixing? Well it's a flip a coin sort of one on this. How much time and how much are the DRAM chips worth, and if that doesn't fix it and it is a ASIC/Processor fault, it's a done deal at that point.

[@TechItOut]

Looks to me more like a firmware problem. If you had a remote you could try re-flashing it. Nothing dodgy about Hisense I have been using mine for six year in constant all day usage as my main monitor for content creation and business. Never missed a beat. It is one of my first video's on the channel. There is a video on my channel on how to access the engineering menu as well.

[@littlejackalo5326]

Hisense is one of the worst TVs in production. Your sample size of ONE is statistically irrelevant. Your one TV working for 6 years doesn't change the reliability of the brand as a whole. TCL and Hisense are two of the worst manufacturers of TVs.

[@TechItOut]

@@littlejackalo5326 Can you point me to the confirmed statistics that you are quoting from?

[@IanMicheal]

@@littlejackalo5326 Just become sample size of 2 i have been using mine For 5 years on 24 hours a day as my main monitor.. I'm a coder developer it's worked flawless with out a problem..

[@IanMicheal]

I agree i have done the same it's been rock soild..

[@gunderd]

Other KZbin videos suggest holding the power button (on the tv) to reset it. Unplug, hold power button. Plug in, hold power button until it resets and starts. Not sure if that helps, but it's simple so might be worth a try.

[@Feuerbard]

first malfunction - flickering picture is usual problem for AUO panels - shorted esd diodes on ckv lines ( on different edges of panel boards ) or bad gate drivers in panel glass . try to isolate ckv lines on bad side . freezing hisense logo is bad firmware

[@WacKEDmaN]

id say fix it... then give it away to one of ya aussie viewers whos here all the time! :P (at their shipping expense!)

[@RK-kn1ud]

The shipping expense may be greater than the value of the television.

[@wisher21uk]

Contact Hisence and ask for the firmware update, it’s gone corrupt, put it on a usb and bobs your teapot, did a friends 2 weeks ago

[@galileo_rs]

Every Toshiba TV made in the last few years is Hisense so not as dodgy ...

[@robmathews2256]

I found a 58 inch 4k hisense in the dumpster. I replaced all the led strips for $35 works great so far.

[@SecondHandDIY]

looks like a eprom problem to me since its not booting all the way i been fixing tvs for 40 years now hope this helps you out

[@darausus8315]

It may be some software failure. There should be repair mode somewhere where TV step by step allow to see what exactly going wrong.

[@ASilentS]

I've got a Hisense. It's actually pretty good. The smart TV stuff is garbage, but that's why Roku exists.

[@erniet253]

High sense is not a dodgy brand I have a 4k hdr high sense tv and it is still working have no trouble with it

[@michaelmitchell8218]

It’s not worth scoping? Why why own a scope then, if you don’t want to use it on stuff.

[@asmongoldsmouth9839]

Hisense is not a dodgey brand. Hisense is SHARP. I'm sure you have heard of SHARP. Hisense is some of the highest quality budget-friendly TVs on the market. Notice the AUO (AU Optronics) controller board? Top of thd line. They are masters of displays. They are the only company to produce a 4K 400+ Hz screen to date. This problem, to me, looks potentially like the firmware boot up is stuck. Usually a corrupted or damaged firmware install. Maybe the TV was updating the firmware and the power was interrupted. But this is EXACTLY what it acts and looks like. I've dealt with it a ton. You can use RUFUS to make a Linux bootable USB drive and get the OEM image of the firmware by Googling the model of TV. Then you use the service USB port on the back of the TV and boot the TV in service mode. It will walk you through. These Android (Google as well)/Linux TVs are a walk in the park.

[@jonnafry]

Those flat flex connectors at the very periphery where they go into the LCD are prime suspects. Try pressing down on them while observing ... and if you find a suspect, heat along the connector with your iron and some oven paper to attenuate the heat.

[@EEVblog2]

Tried, no joy.

[@gblargg]

Also try running with just one connected, then just the other, to rule out a connection/problem with the LCD side.

[@electronicsanta8149]

Your forgetting that it’s not booting therein lies the issue

[@wartlme]

Would be interesting if you found an interface, JTAG or serial, and tried to watch the bootloader via the command line. Seems like boot failure.

[@WizardTim]

Pretty sure that's one of the Hisense disposable TV models, really not worth repairing. CPU probably crashes after outputting the Hisense logo to the frame buffer, Hisense logo is probably handled by some low level bootloader, the menu is probably done by an actual OS which is probably boot looping very early in boot, weird image artifacting is probably a symptom of it, maybe it's browning out the frame output to the TCON and CPU when it attempts to boot. Only suggestion would be to take off the SMT radial can caps and test them for ESR, if it's not them it's probably beyond economical repair. Maybe thermal camera it for a bad LDO or MLCC on the rare chance.

[@yicollin5144]

Hisense tv hove really good picture

[@DOMTHESAUSAGE]

dodgy brand ahaha as dodgy as the guy trying to fix it

[@coreybabcock2023]

Electro boom FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER !

[@lordmmx1303]

HiSense is chinese brand, but one of better ones. and HiSense actually managed to take over brands like Gorenje or Mora in europe.

[@RK-kn1ud]

Still waiting for the handle upgrade to your magnifier I see.

[@EEVblog2]

I've been in lazy mode

[@RK-kn1ud]

@@EEVblog2 Kids are far more useful than just having them cut the lawn (do you have lawns in Australia?) Epoxy is the new silly putty. Let them play. lol

[@Adamisgood24]

Fresnel len's are great!

[@GannDolph]

matches a capacitor diagnosis but the no-boot up is troubling. see if you can get past that boot screen- maybe plug a source in or fire in some commands from a universal remote..

[@EEVblog2]

No joy on a HDMI source.

[@christatler7378]

Probably could have re-screwed the feet back on after remove the back 🤪

[@dougietamson]

You can put the 2 stands back on once the back cover is off and get it on the bench.

[@kristiandawe85]

I’m guessing it’s a firmware update gone wrong, i wonder if there is a way to hard reset the tv. I doubt there is anything wrong with the electronics.

[@georgen.8027]

Hisense is actually China's #1 brand of LCD TV

[@Arachnoid_of_the_underverse]

Put a scope on the power supply board output it may give a better indication of the true output rather than a standard meter.

[@whitesapphire5865]

Might be worth having a squiz at Michael Dranfield's channel. He's something of a guru at finding and fixing obscure faults.

[@russellhltn1396]

I'd suggest pulling out the ESR meter and checking all the electrolytics. That's pretty quick and a likely source of problems. Not all bad caps bulge.

[@mrnmrn1]

Or just measure the ripple on the power raild (including all the locally, on-board generated power rails on the main board) with a scope. An ESR meter not always helps if there are a lot of parallel capacitors on the same rail, one might be open, and you still measure low enough ESR, while that one open local bypass cap might cause high ripple.

[@vitusscasino]

It's a problem with the main logic board.. the vram next to cpu is damaged.. change the board and it will solve your problems

[@dennislacroix5478]

Not a huge fan of hisense tvs. I'm pretty sure it's the main board. You could try reflowing the board and if that doesn't work, then it's most likely the ram or the rom.

[@preston963]

I do TV repairs daily n that can be fixed by cutting the correct clock lines to the display on some it's the CKV & CKVB lines but first make sure VGH, VGL, VDD voltages at the display are correct & stable.

[@DatBlueHusky]

hot air the cpu, ive done it to a tv to repair it and still works to this day after 6 months. No where on the net anyone said you could fix it with hot air so i decided to try it anyway before buying a new board and it worked wonders. It was doing similar things where it would stay black screen or not boot.

[@Tooob]

Correct... I did this with a nice LG 42" TV. Low heat gun for 30 seconds (after previous warm up) and then re-paste CPU. Works great. Before the repair the TV would turn on power light, then flash the light after CPU failed to operate.

Check the caps if the problem gets better after a few minutes.

[@XeonXR6]

Please, if you don't need the feet, how much is shipping to the UK?

[@TrevorsBench]

Something is glitching which caused it to brick. If you could reflash the firmware I think it would come back but the glitching will probably brick it again. I think you covered all the bases here. Could be something simple like a failing MLCC cap shorting but just try and find it, good luck

[@_a.z]

Just buy one with a broken screen, or a set of boards. I usually pay about $30 for a set of boards or if it's a TV I plan on keeping, I'll get a set of spare boards anyway!

[@Stoneman06660]

I've had a crack at several of these cheap TVs and even when I can locate the problem, finding a replacement part (or even identifying the parts) or replacement board is nearly impossible. So many similar parts, model numbers, generic boards and what not and good luck to you. Maybe if you did this as a job it would be approachable, but as a home hack-handyman is a tough gig.

[@reacey]

Not that bad .. id say ive repaired 90 percent of the tvs ive looked at, and ive been doing it for years, i hardly ever swap boards for new ones , ill locate the faulty component / components . I keep a shed load of donor boards and led strips for parts . Once youve done a few you could fix them in your sleep

[@Stoneman06660]

Thanks for the insight,@@reacey. I don't really have the room and time to keep an extensive collection of salvaged boards and components. Good to know it can be done and try and keep this stuff out of landfill. The kerb-side collections are full of TVs and I'm sure there is no effort made to separate the waste for recycling once it's loaded into trucks.

[@saddle1940]

Remove, rubber clean and reseat all the flex cables first. Seen that type of glitch many times on the screen side where the panel is not right. Look at the caps and semiconductors (any tranis or diodes) on the panel PCBs first. They used to put those PCBs at the top of the panels but heat turned out to be an issue with the heat and press tab connection tape, so now they are all at the bottom. People clean the screens and liquids run down onto the tabs and pcbs there. Electrolysis does the rest. The panel will probably have side tabs with chips on them as well. One of them may not be powered properly anymore and it stops feeding the serial data properly and the XY image gets out of sync vertically. There are thin tracks on the panel mask that transfer power and data to those chips. You can test to see if that's an issue by disconnecting one of the TCON cables to see if the image becomes stable on the remaining half side. If not, try the other one. If it is the panel, most people junk it, although there are other ways around bad panel tracks and corroded panel PCBs. Got three of that model downstairs at the moment.

[@allan80supra]

see if you can find a LVDS adaptor and stick a RaspberryPi in it use it for a smart mirror or status display.

[@robinsattahip2376]

Don't complain, the fine people at Samsung had come up with large screen TVs that literally have to be pried apart like a tablet. The ribbon cable is an easy casualty if you go too deep while prying. That is poor design.

[@PF-gi9vv]

I onced fixed a sharp TV that was frozen at boot. I re-flowed the main board (controller/brains board) using a hot air gun & some flux and it came back to life :)

[@scottwayne9148]

I found a Hisense 50H8C and recently purchased a TV repair kit for a different TV a smart tv any way the screen broke in four places needs a new screen any other problems and it has two terminal to connect to the screen I believe the repair kit would work minis the center back cover unfortunately either way the old original TV part or new ones. Except the screen cost as much as the smart 4K television I seen a few for a good price which was a long time ago

[@MEDZener]

Timing Control Board (T-CON)

[@feddtyme0722]

my red light stays solid and wont turn on and idea what that could be

[@HAXZingTERR0R]

the tcon board is upside down the electrons might fall out bobby dazzler jobbie for ya dave

[@woj95]

I have similar problem with my 55" Philips, there are horizontal lines flickering from one side of the screen to about middle. Screen isn't broken, it just happened one day. I guess its tcon fail, but unfortunately it's integrated into that board glued to LCD panel. Currently repairing it is over my skills...

[@BigDaddy_MRI]

I had a Hisense TV for many years. It never gave me a minutes trouble. Then I got a larger Samsung, and gave the Hisense TV to a friend and he put it in a guest room and it’s still working. Not too shabby. I’d scope the back lighting power supply. Looks like a timing glitch from the T-con board. I would remove and spray the connectors with DeOxit D5 and give that a go. After that would be remove the boards and have a good look under the microscope for cracked solder joints on all the surface mounted stuff.

[@RuiRex]

It looks like a corrupt file system so the FW isn't booting correctly. On Hisense you should probably have a serial port somewhere on the PCB that you can connect to and check the boot sequence. Also, for Hisense I think the FW binaries (for updates and so) are not encrypted and you can use one to write it into the Flash memory and possibly bring it to life. It has been done somewhere, I already saw it 😁

[@mskinetik]

I just found a Hisense 40" TV by my apt dumpster. It looks ok from the outside, but when I plugged it in the screen won't turn on, but I do see a red led visible on the built in power button below the screen. I'm not sure it's worth trying to fix, but I look and see if there's anything obvious. I don't mind tinkering for an hour. Possibly a blown led, idk. Any suggestions? (Besides throwing it in the dumpster) Im thinking there's a good chance it will wind up there anyway, but worth a shot.

[@littlejackalo5326]

Hisense TVs are never worth repairing. Hisense, TCL, Polaroid, Magnavox, Phillips, then Vizio, in that order, from least worth repairing to most. Garbage products.

[@constantinjitariu1439]

Try reflowing the main APU there might be solder balls disconected under it and maybe thats why it is flickering and not booting

[@T0NYFERRELL1]

No doubt finding the actual fault would be a huge time sink. Would like to see a video for a similar fault, but another functioning TV of the same model can be used to quickly identify the faulty board, and then hone in on the actual fault by comparing the operation of both boards. I always wondered what particular part fails that causes these weird glitchy faults that make us throw out an otherwise functional piece of tech.

[@dreamcat4]

yeah i agree, with a pair of 2 same item you could get so much easier progress. which is more likely... if the item was thrown out from an old business. and they had serval of them. almost never see this with random broken tvs though. so what tends to make more sense is when people sell the different parts as spares on ebay. like the psu board, or the mainboard. other display board etc. so then at least somebody else can have a crack at fixing their other broke unit. a bit better for the environment that way

[@davidknightaudio934]

Looks like it's stuck in boot maybe try refreshing the rom but seeing the flickering tells me that might not be the problem. If it was just stuck in boot I'd try that but the flickering tells me maybe the tcon board has issues. Of course capacitors could caus this too I'm talking about small solid state caps on the rails and small ceramic jobs decoupling chips and on the top board and the two strip boards on the lcd itself

[@vernonbosshard9317]

What do those acronyms on the PSU mean, I'm repairing caps on this 42 Hisense so I want to turn on the PSU without the other boards connected, I have the various voltages of course, PWM, SW and 5V-S what do they mean, which one turns the PSU on? Ground it or apply stb voltage?

[@mycosys]

You havve a warped perception of Hisense. They arent a no-name house brand, theyre a huge manufacturer.

[@edwardcasati3374]

Oh how jaded we have become! 50" screen, high resolution... probably not worth fixing... then I time jump back in my mind back to a 24" 150 lb monster CRT around 30 years ago, and how impressive that was for the time. Fix it... just for the challenge.... then you can donate it to someone or some place that can use it.

[@markborchers6613]

In answer to your question... Nup. My experience of these devices' ability to play back media formats is terrible. In fact, I *gave* away a 55" Hisense because it refused to play .MKV files.

[@Peter_A1466]

It's not about the value of the device, but about the value of your viewers learning!

[@electronicengineer]

I completely agree with you. A repair would not only be interesting to watch, but also possibly helpful to others that may have this television set with similar/identical problems. If the set turns out to be fixable, then there is one less big screen television going into the already bulging landfills in our disposable, throw it away world. I suggest giving repair a shot at least. Fred

[@trr5291]

My sister has a Hisense from 2021. The screen went completely black after only a few years.

[@you2bevsgoogle]

Change the Mainboard,done. The flickering Hisense Logo is a Problem with the flex cable from the Display.

[@Metalhead-4life]

Got an LG TV that the screen dims every 4 seconds like clockwork, any idea what the problem could be? I've replaced all boards but could have gotten a bad one from ebay. The Hisense could it be a processor issue?

[@gioremi2161]

The solution to flickering is signal blocking, commonly called tape method, that tv has a 2 flex cable on the t-con board going to the panel, the first thing to do is disconnect one flex, either left or right and power up the unit again, only one side will have a display, if the flickering is gone, then the disconnected flex side going to the panel must be blocked, blocking the ckv signals will solve the problem, you can watch my channel, Gio Remi, I just uploaded a video about flickering problem....it's a 50" Samsung smart tv....

[@georgegeorge899]

Maybe was overclocked... Some pc gamers do that to increase the frequency of the display.

[@jeremylister89]

🇬🇧 hit it gently everywhere with screwdriver handle. If that doesn't work, get a 10kg lump hammer...and have fun

[@kpelectronics]

wow, you call t-con board the connection AND YOU SPECT TO REAPIR A DOUBLE IMAGE PROBLEM WITH SPRAY?.......GOOD LUCK!!

[@televisionandcheese]

Yeah seems like the digital board has bad ram or something, it starts booting, then gets stuck at the logo loading screen, and goes all corrupty Maybe the problem gets worse as the memory heats up (though I doubt that, not sure why the problem would be worse at first start up on this theory) Probably only worth stripping it for the screen panel and tossing the rest of the telly

[@vernonbosshard9317]

Might be an eMMC chip. For some reason they have a life limit and they fail a lot, when they fail the TV won't boot correctly.

[@daikiryoku]

Has this guy ever actually fixed anything?

[@billr3053]

Hisense 50K3300UW Technical specs document is dated Apr 15, 2016

[@dr.fitprofessor4363]

Indeed, that's 11 minutes out of my life that I'll never get back. LOL

[@janchristensen9858]

First thing a T-Con is not named becase of it wired like a T, but is stand for Timing Control. Secondly the T-Con is defekt, and it also stuck in boot like a Boot loop. So this TV is not worth to spend any more time on.

[@theteenageengineer]

I’m going to say don’t even bother trying to repair it, it’s a cheap TV anyway. If it was a Samsung, LG, or Sony then I’d say it’s worth repairing.

[@TheSpotify95]

If you can't get the TV working, at least take the backlight LEDs and the speakers out of it, as you can reuse those components wityh little to no effort!

[@coreybabcock2023]

I've fixed a old lg tv by putting the mother board in my over at 350 for 20 mins to reflow it the HDMI worked again

[@whodatdere1]

Looks like a firmware issue and/or bad rom. If you are able to hard reset it through button combo and USB stick it may remedy the issue, but more likely you'll have to desolder the memory chip and flash it the old school way. Unless you can find one pre-loaded one somewhere. As for the hazy flickers, it could be the beginning of a faulty screen, or as simple as dirty connections on the TCON board or the TCON itself with a timing issue.

[@sandeshchhetry2993]

I have an exactly similar Hisense unit. The problem is the TV works fine for some time and out of a sudden the screen goes off with sound and backlight on. And, when I power off and turn the TV on, it starts working fine and the problem repeats randomly. What do you the problem is?