Is your PC making your room a SAUNA!? Try these tips!

[@sergentboucherie]

My PC is not a mini heater, it is a second sun

[@marqsen3499]

😂😂😂😂

[@davidhines7592]

😎

[@FranktheBlindArtist]

@viperpit-lr2rphey I resemble that comment 😂

[@exxor9108]

Running an old time Pentium 4? lol

[@kevinerbs2778]

Must be a RTX 4090 owner.

[@Kaltes1]

The tldr for the folks. Either reduce wattage usage of the PC or start considering room treatments. Replace windows with high efficiently ones, Blackout curtains or sun refection material. New wall insulation, a room specific AC unit, or a box fan to help will air movement.

[@junodude456]

Thank you for your service!

[@dennis0007]

This video is too long. 13 min in and still no info on how to fix the issue. I just stopped watching

[@montyslush]

thanks bro. had it on two times speed and he hadnt given one tip yet Lol.

[@DeusJensenGaming]

@@dennis0007 yeah it really gets on my nerves when he does that shit but its his channel

[@WolfNet907]

Two of the largest bang-for-buck home upgrades I've made to try to reduce the heat (HVAC been broken too) are simple sun shades outside the windows (wider=better, shade your wall too!!) and a big roll of foil-fabric off amazon in the attic/rafters (also works anywhere reflecting radiant heat would work, in or out). The sun screens roll up/down, and cost about 50-90$/window. The roll of foil-fabric was like 1000'x1m for 100$. I know not everyone can do one or both, but, with only those changes the heat during afternoon goes from deathly to bearable (without AC). The savings on HVAC would also be quickly noticed. 3 humans, 3 XXL dogs, and 3 gaming PCs, and you can easily feel the sun beat through the wall... and ceiling! Every bit helps.

[@dragorocky2]

No joke, as a Canadian, I have space heater running 8 months of the year. When I start gaming, the space heater is not required.

[@Deathtonado]

I live in northern US and i use a space heater in every room in my home except my bedroom that has my pc works great

[@MrMCDiggles]

I live in the Midwest and my house isn't well insulated. I need some 14000ks and 4090s to heat my home. Any takers?

[@BARRICADE]

NE BC here. Winter is 9+ months, then it's forest fire season for the rest of the year. So keeping things cool when it's 40c+ outside and 45-50c indoors is a pain.

[@mattrogers6646]

If you can afford it, run world community grid on headless decent core count CPUs instead. That's what I've been doing for decades. That way you can heat your home and help advance humanitarian scientific endeavors, like cancer research, finding new drug therapies, etc.

[@ogthebog2381]

The sadder part is that you have justin 12 months a year.

[@terryheimerl8674]

Hi Jay, I have done thermal dynamics in an engineering course and found your explanation very well thought out. The only thing I could add is "if you have a 1000 Watt power supply then the PC will, on full load, be about a 1000 Watt heater". A lot of theory in this but shown/described in an easily digested manner. Good to see you add the approximate wattage of a single person as very few know that we are heaters as well. You look as though your health is getting better too. Great to see. Thank you for your videos. Terry from Australia.

[@evan5935]

There's a reason that, in The Matrix, the robots wanted to use humans in pods for power. Heat generation en masse could theoretically be used to power turbines or otherwise similarly provide power via some type of heat exchange 🤷‍♂️

[@matt-dw]

If a PC with a 1000W power supply pulls 450W from the wall (which are realistic figures for a reasonably high-end PC), how on Earth is it putting 1000W of heat into the room?

[@MagiconIce]

@@matt-dw One day in the future, when Nvidia releases a GTXRTXQuadruple 7090....

[@TheNadazza]

Putting aside the cost of 4090’s and all of that, one of the reasons why I despise the current trend of just increasing power consumption each generation is that it just means more heat is getting generated and more space is getting taken up.

[@trsskater]

Haha yeah. They aren't able to increase efficiency or they are trying to yo hold out on it so have more products they can produce since we are starting to reach the end of mores law.

[@flynn6531]

So true, I hate when people say "if you can afford a 4090 you can afford the electricity" - that's not the problem! It's 450w+ of heat

[@kevinerbs2778]

@@flynn6531 Isn't that the same reason why reviewers used to complain about S.L.I? Just to show you how good S.L.I is/was when supported properly even on mGPU. in Deus Ex Mankind Divided I have RTX 2080ti's in S.L.I & I can match a RTX 4090 in 4K, & before you ask about stuttering, No, it does not stutter either. it's pretty much exactly the same fps. Personally, I find it funny that a lot of games are still stuttering on single card just as much even without the use of multi-card setups. Nothing changed by going to single GPU, just the prices really.

[@BrunodeSouzaLino]

Blame the consumers. They kept buying into the trend and that signaled manufacturers that people will deal with whatever heat issues their components might have as long as they can deliver the miniscule performance figures people can only notice by measuring them. If the trend continues, custom water cooling loops will become mandatory for high and enthusiast hardware. "Oh, if a server CPU can idle at 500W, so can your consumer grade CPUs."

[@Shoomer1988]

You need to blame physics.

[@kyleturner1790]

Not trying to nit-pick, this is just the one thing I'm actually well versed in; concrete is not a good insulator but it has a lot of thermal mass. It takes a lot of energy and time to heat up concrete, and conversely, it tastes a lot of time for that heat to come out of the concrete as well. Functionally it feels like a good insulator, but it's not quite the same thing. Love the channel and content. I once saw someone wearing a J2C t-shirt on a Disney cruise in Mexico, and I felt like we were homies, even though we never talked.

[@GoufinAround_]

I hope the new GN video doesn't mess up your watercooling video plans

[@envirovore]

I just finished watching that as this was being published, found it to be amusing timing

[@thecrazyparrot1083]

Coming here straight from that lol

[@d4nith3]

😮

[@sidranshu]

Pretty sure Alpha cool has supplied more.than EK has

[@ToastenButter]

I was thinking I wonder how Jay is going to address the whole EK situation. It's not like he has anything to do with it, I am just curious what he thinks about all of this since he's been using them forever.

[@beaubachman249]

Started when I ran a custom waterloop but still use it today with AIO setups. Just grabbed a rectangular hvac to round adapter at HDepot and ran 4" round black flex tubing up into my drop ceiling in my basement gaming room. Use that in the summer to exhaust all hot air from the top of my pc case up above the drop ceiling. In the winter I cap it off and use the PC to heat the room. Works great. The HVac piece has magnets at the bottom and it just sticks to the top of my case. Easy to remove come winter time.

[@jonathanmellette8541]

I have a portable AC unit in my home office. I have to run it pretty much all the time during the spring, summer, and fall. (I'm in Texas.) But in winter, it gets a break :)

[@intermilan9731]

name of u AC unit?

[@jonathanmellette8541]

@@intermilan9731 It's a Honeywell. You can buy them at stores like Home Depot, Lowes, and even Amazon. They're about $400-$600 for a big enough one to help. It's basically a window unit, except it doesn't stick out the window, which my HOA wouldn't allow :) It does exhaust out the window with a slick little attachment that fits in your window sill. (But you definitely have to have a window available, or it will just blow the hot air back into the room.)

[@killer01ws6]

I had considered that route, I live in a HOA so, no window unit or wall units that could be seen by a neighbor even though I am on a cul de sac and have not right be me house smh.. Any how, how do you plumb the drain and where do you remove the heat from the unit?

[@RichardBrady-nz1gv]

​@@killer01ws6 We used a big 10K BTU Hisense "portable" unit for a year when our central unit quit. While we never had to drain ours I cannot say every single unit is like that. Especially older ones. They're always going to have a small tank to hold the condensate and a plug on the back to drain it if needed. As for removing the heat most units use some of the inside air to cool the condenser or hot side and dump it outside using a hose and a nearby window. These are less efficient though the loss is lower than you'd expect. A few are dual hose units meaning they use air from outside to cool the condenser much like a window unit. If you wanted to get creative you could dump the waste heat to an attic or a crawlspace if you're on a foundation. But they all have window kits from what I've seen. In any event you should consider insulating the hose coming off the hot side with the same stuff they use on duct work. Makes a big difference

[@mrdappernature8861]

Lol... I have the same setup. Im in Georgia and man it gets extremely hot in my office while gaming.

[@HandsOC]

100 foot active usb cables. 100 foot fiber optic hdmi and display port cables. 4090 pc downstairs in vr space. Removing the pc from the room was the key for me.

[@WreckDiver99]

Sorry Jay, Concrete is NOT a good insulator. R rating is about 0.15 per inch. The reason a slab is cold even in the summer months is because the slab is in contact with the ground. The ground is the worlds largest heat sink, and it won't warm nearly as fast as the air around it. Go out in your 'garden' and dig 6" deep. It's COLD compared to everything around it. Because the ground doesn't warm as rapidly as the air around it. While I agree with most of this vijayo, a feller needs to remember...concrete is NOT a good insulator. I tried to do the right thing and ignore it, but yea...couldn't do it.

[@das_025]

Imma guess that what he meant was plaster walls. Older homes and apartments in CA were built with plaster and the walls are so solid you would think it is concrete.

[@WreckDiver99]

@@das_025 Dunno...he mentions the studio floor being "cold". That's because it's in contact with cold ground and the R-Value is so low that cold just goes right through the concrete. It's why you need insulation down under a radiant floor slab. Been looking into those for my retirement shop where I live. Know a couple that have them, and one was told "BAH, you don't need no stinking insulation". Yea...he can't even run his radiant heat because it just won't work". :(

[@georgebenson3826]

So, burry your radiator in the soil outside?

[@WreckDiver99]

@@georgebenson3826 LOL....That's a great idea for Jay to try out. LOL...Actually Linus kind of did something like this...the "Whole House Water Cooler" where they plumbed all the machines to a massive radiator to the outside. If memory serves, it really didn't do as well as they hoped.

[@CptSweetCheeksJr]

@@georgebenson3826 Check out geothermal heat pumps. People bury long coils of water tubing and use that as the radiator for their AC units.

[@michaeldonaldson6923]

I purchased a small window AC unit this year and it has been amazing. It was relatively cheap at $140 but has made a huge difference.

[@asksearchknock]

11:23 the sun is an even bigger heat source than your computer. Intel: challenge accepted 😂

[@sleepingwarrior4618]

I reduced the heating of the room problem significantly by taking out the HDD's from my heater box and putting them inside a NAS and putting that NAS in a different room. The irritating noise of the drives clicking was gone.... and the cumulated heat from them was no longer going into the room. This meant that the PSU was working less and produced less heat, in addition to the drives no longer producing heat. You wouldn't think this makes much difference but over time it does.

[@ziff_1]

Your solution is basically a 2nd PC in a different room, lol. Hard drive heat output, while not zero, is pretty negligible compared to a CPU and GPU that have fans or radiators literally blowing heat out like a space heater.

[@sleepingwarrior4618]

@@ziff_1 Nope, not basically a second pc in the other room. A NAS does not act like a second computer even though is functionally is. It makes a load of noise for starters.....and when you actually have to manage the heat in your room....the fact is, the mkte heat sources you can remove is improving it. 4 HDD's at idle add heat and the moment you ask one to spin up, it is adding to the cumulated heat.....not the isolated heat. I do agree the bulk of the heat comes from the CPU and the GPU but I had my four HDD's right behind the intake fan at the front of the chassis so although they were actually kept cool.....it's still causing Luke warm air to be the baseline for the rest of the case. Why don't you make a video and show how removing 4 HDD's from a rig is only minimal as you claim. It made a significant difference for me, especially when 3/4 are spun up and in use.

[@RichardBrady-nz1gv]

@@ziff_1 When you have enough of them it can add up. Especially with older or performance oriented drives

[@WolfNet907]

@@ziff_1 You would be surprised how little watts a nas will use vs. a 'second PC'. Most can run under 7-20watts with 3-4 HDD, those things 'compete' for low watt numbers. Additionally, you'd be surprised how little an older 2U xeon server will use 24/7 even with a full rack of HDDs. Before I beefed it up, my 2U server with 12 high cap HDDs (unraid not zraid.. makes a difference for simpler media server use) it was avg 80-90wats total. That's about 3-6$/mo in electric most places. Add a low pro GPU for headless gaming or AI use and add ~70watt spikes. Oh, for those interested... the fans in a 2U... the ones that sound like hair dryers and eat fingers like blenders? Yeah, the difference between quiet/low and "high performance" is measured in the dozens of watts. 2500rpm vs 4k vs 7-12k is like 50-100watts or more. If you're only using it for media/home use, turn those suckers down... your ears and electric bill will thank you. Unless yer nuts like me and stuff the thing to the gills with 10gig, nvmes, gpu, and 22core xeons...then you gotta keep it around 'normal' speed, or, use some temp watching scripts to regulate. But, I shifted all my storage and long run AI work out of my main PC/bedroom this way.. it can even sleep now!

[@conormcc100]

Recently got a 4090 and my office has become a swedish sauna with it starting to get warmer in Scotland

[@ZackSNetwork]

How do you not have air conditioning or even a good case with a lot of good fans in it?

[@Micromation]

​​@@ZackSNetworkgood case and fans doesn't help cooling down the room.. it makes it warmer because it is dissipating heat more efficiently...

[@onitable]

​@@ZackSNetwork we don't need air conditioning in Scotland. When we say it's getting hotter it's above 0 deg C. Right now it's 6 deg C and about 13-14 at its hottest, it's shorts at T shirt weather now 😅

[@JohnmillerPowerlifting]

Playing helldivers my 4090 was going mental, and the heat in the room got crazy. Ended up limiting my fps to 144 just to bring the heat down. Come winter I will get the fps pumping again to keep me warm Hahaha bring on 6 months of rain till winter

[@Micromation]

@@onitable yup, and anything at or beyond 27 degrees is 7th circle of hell...

[@eclypse1259]

One thing that I do to help lower heat during summer is to decrease frame rates or reduce some settings when gaming, so that the GPU stays around 50-55c. It might not seem like it would make a big difference, but 50c is 122* Fahrenheit, and if you are maxing out just your GPU, you could be hitting temps as high as 75-80c, which could be an extra 54* F, and that doesn’t include the increase in power supply, or CPU temperatures.

[@aaronbeaupre909]

Hvac guy here, a 1 ton minisplit will be PLENTY supplemental cooling for your room and more affordable to boot. I've serviced countless businesses with smallish server racks and they're served by 1 ton minis and work perfectly fine. Just keep up with the maintenance and it'll be damn reliable. At some point I'm going to turn a minisplit condenser into a computer case.

[@Jay_the_Caffeinator]

One of my favorite topics, heat transfer and fluid flow!! When we moved into our house, the dining room was the computer room. And since our HVAC at the time was not sized for the house, let alone balanced. The west sun made it hotter than heck! We planted a river birch tree. And it helped keep that end of the house cooler.

[@juhopeltonen1531]

Here in Sauna's home land. Still waiting for a warm day.

[@SaraMorgan-ym6ue]

why is your room hotter because the cooler is transferring the heat into the rooms air faster then before plain and simple making it more of a sauna and if it's cooler it will turbo more often and thus make more heat then before plain and simple

[@JetFuelSE]

Bro you're about to get even more snow 💀

[@TheLazyFinn]

@@JetFuelSE We sure did! Spring got denied lol

[@MSLcorp]

Torille!

[@TheLazyFinn]

@@MSLcorp Jos toi lumisade loppus, tais onneks vihdoin loppua

[@matthewosborne6332]

I built a (for the time) powerhouse gaming PC with custom water-cooling for my 40th birthday in 2020 as a consolation for working my *** off in COVID and for the fact I couldn't go anywhere or do anything. My room is south-facing, and the temps got to the wrong side of 34c. So, I installed a powered exterior blind to keep the worst of the sun off the window and got a couple of small evaporative air coolers. In summer 2021, the temperature still got on the wrong side of 30c, but I could at least sit in a small bubble of slightly cooler air. For 2022, I got myself an EcoFlow Wave 2 AC unit. Now i manage to keep my room below 26 with no major issues.

[@MarcAureIe]

Few years ago, I bought some soft tubes, drilled some holes on the walls, watercooled my computer and put the radiator outside.

[@tmoore121]

I also have an external radiator and I'm contemplating putting it in the next room and drilling through the wall to run tubing.

[@TheTimothydragon]

How does that work for you? Also do you ever reach freezing temps outside?

[@MarcAureIe]

It worked well (it was my 3080, I upgraded since and my new gpu is aircooled). It was during the mining trend, so I left my computer on and mining 24/7 (except when I played games). So the water was always heated, even when the outside temps were below 0°C. I never had problems, my memory was ~50°C while mining, the gpu was ~45°C when paying games.​@@TheTimothydragon

[@tmoore121]

@@TheTimothydragon If the temps outside drop below ambient in the room with the computer you'll run into the potential for condensation to form, which is why water chillers for PCs aren't really a thing. I've thought about this as well but it gets too cold outside.

[@TheTimothydragon]

@@tmoore121 What if you always idle it would that change anything?

[@thelaughingmanofficial]

I live in a Studio Apt so there's not much I can do about heat dissipation other than put my Tower in the path of the central AC, it's not directly in the path but it's in a spot where cool air can reach it pretty easily. In the Winter time I just don't turn on the heater. Not that my PC get's that hot anyways because when it's idling or I'm watching video it's not really getting hot enough. The heat is only noticeable when I'm playing a game.

[@docbrody]

Removed a single pane from my window and built a cardboard and duck tape vent to send exhaust straight outside. Worked incredibly well for a couple weeks until my wife noticed (admittedly it looked pretty janky, even from outside in the yard)

[@deadlymecury]

I do about the same. I have an external radiator (MoRa) and in spring and autumn when it's comfortable 20-25C outside but PC will bring room temperature up to 28-30C - I just open balcony, place radiator near it and face exhaust outside. And in the winter I can place whole radiator outside to cool down water for fun and 3dmark runs with 25C average with 4090. But it doesn't work in summer because it is 35C outside, so neither I can open door/window to exhaust hot air outside nor I can place radiator outside. So AC is the only answer.

[@kathrynck]

Just make a more aesthetic version of it :) It really is the best thing to do with thermal waste in warm weather.

[@anthonyminson]

@@deadlymecury Would it be possible to just exhaust the pc air outside in summer and have it take the in the inside air? What if the hose had fans connected to the PC that ramped up with the usage?

[@deadlymecury]

@@anthonyminson if you have an opening in the wall for air duct that can be closed when not used to not let hot air in - why not. But any normal opening (window, balcony) would not work, you need PC exhaust sealed.

[@anthonyminson]

@@deadlymecury what about a dryer vent exhaust hood that has a flap that opens when air is being pushed out?

[@matt65535]

So my system is in a bedroom turned office. I've managed to mostly mitigate the temperature by making more effective use of the house AC. I'm using AC Infinity register fans, one intake from the register system and one exhaust in the return. Hence that room circulates air in to the HVAC system faster than the rest of the house and helps equalize that room with the overall house temperature. Side benefit, during the winter, it's feeding the PC air straight in to the rest of the house, providing "free" bonus heat...

[@STAG162]

if you can't avoid the heat generated by either your PC or the weather outside, having a high ceiling helps (unless you're tall) but Jay's advice about crossflow (two or more windows open) is prime info.

[@mikenelson6630]

This was quite informative. In my case, heat removal is not a big issue. I live in an apartment in Minnesota, that used to be an old creamery building. After it was renovated, I ended up in an apartment that used to be part of the walk in cooler. As a result, my outside walls are literally 2 feet thick, with old style blocks, then wood studs & insulation, & then finally stucco. In the winter time, my 5-6 year old PC is almost enough to heat my 1 room/1 bedroom apartment alone. Even with electric baseboard heating, my electric bill in winter time can be as low as $15 per month. In summer, I pull the shades on my 2 north facing windows (the only windows), and keep most heat outside.

[@killer01ws6]

Cool, Pun intended.

[@Greenytica]

Yo Jay, Aussie here and have been dealing with an overly hot room for years. Have made a change recently though that has helped heaps. I added quick disconnects into the back of my loop, then added a spare D5 / res I had on a shelf, some long hose and a 280mm rad with some fans on it. In summer I can hang the thing in front of the aircon and it makes the water loop ~ 23C, which means the PC is now cooling the room rather than heating it and I can run the aircon at a higher temp and lower fan, while maintaining room temp. Or if it's colder at night outside, then I can flip it over and it sits in the window pulling colder air in. Right now its 22C in the room, 10C outside, and the water loop is maintaining 25C.

[@Mr.Morden]

I live in Florida and my solution was to put my PC in the storage room, on the other side of the wall I sit next to. I made a small hole in the wall for the cables. Then I took off the side panels for the PC and put a 24 inch box fan next to it. Even with the AC vents closed in that room it runs at perfectly acceptable temps.

[@benjaminheath9329]

​@Mr.Morden omfg😂 I live in south central Florida and I almost did some very similar. I ended up getting a flexible duct with an in line fan to pull the exhaust up to the HVAC heat return vent.

[@kryptonitecb]

@@Mr.Morden I posted a similar solution, I used optical cables routed through the attic. Here in TX it gets unbareable during the summer but now I have one hot room in the house while I'm fine. Also no loss in performance with one room at 80F, running 13900KS & 4090.

[@deadlymecury]

You can "pump those numbers" and get MoRa. Bonus points: with MoRa you don't need any space for radiators and pumps inside the case (especially with dual d5 module for mora) and you can get quite compact case.

[@shannonoshea644]

Love this idea man cheers heaps pretty cold here near Canberra haha

[@casuallyweird04]

This was a great video with a lot of useful information! Thanks for taking the time to explain it in terms anyone can understand. In my case, I have NO AC in any of the rooms of my house. I have my PC in a concrete room, under my desk. Next to my desk I have the entrance to the balcony. What I did is I placed my desk next to it and left a bit of spacing between it and the wall. In the evening, which is when I usually have time to enjoy some games, I open the balcony window door halfway and my room door open. This makes it so cold air comes in from outside and through the spacing between the desk and wall directly to my PC and then exits the room. It's really efficient and I always do this. I recommend that people try this too because it works great, and doesn't need to use any AC unit or other cooling devices.

[@aaron0288]

I’m 12 minutes in and still waiting for those tips…

[@Mosi_O]

16:06

[@ENigMa_GOODz]

Thx for the question & tip helping with the question 😅

[@Acetheskyhook]

He does a really good job explaining things first. He's talking about thermal dynamics in the beginning.

[@fony09]

​@@AcetheskyhookIdgaf about that shit tho. I want the tips

[@MikrySoft]

20:00 Concrete is a crap insulator. It has thermal resistance of about 2W/mK (2 Watts of heat flow through 1m thick layer for every 1 Kelvin of temperature difference). Compare that to 0.04 W/mK for mineral wool or 0.03 W/mK (or 14 W/mK for Kryonaut Extreme). What it's good at, and what generated the effect Jay was talking about, is being a thermal mass - it takes a ton of heat to increase its temperature (2 MJ/m^3K, compared to 0.23 MJ/m^3K for wood or 0.0012 for air), so if it cools down at night it takes in a lot of heat before it heats up to ambient temperature.

[@archangel98632]

Much appreciation for the reminders/review! SoCal gamer/homeowner here too, and I definitely have different clock settings for each season. And building my wife's first pc upgrade in 10yrs, we're absolutely thinking of home/room thermal management. 😅

[@angepano8591]

My 'summer power profile' reduces my total power by ~ 60-80W. And the cost is about 3-5% performance from maximum that I use in winter time. But the benefit is my comfort, as my office is so much cooler. That wattage saved is constant so it really adds up. It's pretty easy to do but you have to know your own system to determine where you can dial it back a little.

[@noidont8149]

Back in the FX days I deliberately used my builds as heaters in the winter

[@thecamel8854]

I still do, Folding at Home during the winter works well.

[@kathrynck]

For many years, I have caught myself thinking "Gees it's really chilly... I'd better do some gaming".

[@HetherlumProductions]

@@kathrynck Same. Colder times are a great time to play more demanding games.

[@noidont8149]

@@kathrynck well the reality is at the time my house had really lousy heating so any port in a storm back then

[@kathrynck]

@@noidont8149 Well, I've "enough" heat, overall. But the furnace ducts play havoc with my allergies. So I try to get by on the bare minimum. Single story though, that floor gets COLD ;)

[@mikegilgenbach4840]

My heat/ac vent is in the ceiling. I bought a fan assist vent cover and removed the fans and put them back in blowing into the vent. It takes the hot air at the ceiling and blows it out bringing in the cool air at the floor under the door. Works pretty well. Instead of cooking after 1 to 1-1/2hrs, it can take 6 or 7 hrs before I have to turn it off.

[@xliquidflames]

It's like you're in my head or something. This is exactly the problem I'm trying to solve. I'm in Florida and it's already getting hot here. I am already having issues just running my 45 inch TV and a PS5 in my bedroom and it getting hot. But now I want to build a gaming PC and I'm worried it's just going to be too much. I am totally referencing this video as I shop for parts and when it's all up and running. This video is so well timed. Thank you.

[@thestig007]

I hear you, unfortunately the only answer is to move that hot air out into a cooler area. You just have to get creative with how you do that. Moving heat away from the room is always going to work better than trying to bring cool air in. If you have a window in that room, consider just getting a small window AC, which does just that. It evacuates heat energy from the room and returns cold air.

[@Lethal_Bite]

Only recommendation I can give is even if you have the budget to get a RTX 4090 and 14900k, don't. There are very few games that will benefit from that much raw horsepower, so the majority you'll play will just be wasting power. And in that same thinking, turn on frame limits. If your TV or monitor is only 144hz, limit the game to 144fps. If you leave frame rate unlimited, then your PC or console will be going as hard as it can to make 300 or 400 or however many fps it can at max power, but you'll only be seeing 144fps. If you cap it in the game settings, then the PC will throttle back to only make 144 fps, which lowers how many watts of power it uses and puts out as heat.

[@jashuacloutdog3918]

Install a cold air return above your door

[@ericpisch2732]

i have dropped the temp of my south facing office by over 10°C. I've put solar reflective film on the windows the differences is instantly noticeable on your skin. I insulated the exhaust hose of my portable Aircon unit so that the hose was not radiating heat into the, this works very effectively. What made the biggest difference and it's not necessarily logical was pointing the Aircon straight at the intakes on the PC. The temperature in my office reduced from 38 C till about 27 C.

[@ericpmetze]

This was such a problem for me that I have decided to completely swap my bedroom with my computer room. Last year during the peak of Texas heat, my brand new AC unit and brand new windows weren't enough to keep me from sweating at my desk. And while this room is slowly cooling down, the rest of the house is a like a walk-in freezer.

[@ddogbeast9412]

Texas gang gang. I'm going to undervolt My cpu this summer once texas heat kicks in

[@PaulDurdle]

Canadian here. This was great information, but all of the advice was for warm climates (which I get, it’s where he lives), but I’d love to see some of the same advice for colder/moderate climates. For example, all our houses are insulated quite well. That doesn’t help us in the way it helps Jay, it works against us when running hot. In the winter, I turn my PC on in the morning to heat the room up, the heater in that room is never on, but the rest of the house is kept at 16-20C. In the summer, it can get unbearable in there, and I can’t, for example, insulate the wall to try and help haha

[@DrVonBooger]

It’s starting to heat up here in Orange County CA but it was nice to have my mini heater during our cold months. 😂

[@bme7491]

Our normal hot temps here in OC have thankfully so far been delayed. In the meantime, I'm having an A/C return added to my home office directly over my PC for when it does hit.

[@kirvu9677]

Try here in Houston Tx! Breathing through a hot wet sock ever since february.

[@DrVonBooger]

@@bme7491 yep plan on installing one too

[@squidwardo7074]

@@kirvu9677 It was pretty nice eary feb when it was like 17 degrees tho lol

[@Daniel-fi7jp]

6:35: the larger the surface area the more heat that part is able to **transfer**. Jay said absorb, which is a similar function to transfer. Dissipate would also be accurate as generally your PC parts are higher than the ambient temperature

[@panzer3279]

Jay feeling hot and struggling at 32C daytime weather. Meanwhile, me and my PC boiling at 42C during day and 32C with 85% humidity at night 💀

[@RedBeardWalking]

I legitimately don't think I can live where you live.

[@abunk8691]

I feel you bro. Since you mentioned humidity at night I had to check in my area and damn its 94% at 31C no wonder it feels sticky as heck when sweating.

[@thisguy2958]

I feel you. The humidity is so high that my sweat doesn't even cool me anymore. So fucking lame.

[@SxMT]

That's basically water cooled already

[@astupidlylongnamethatstoolong]

​@@RedBeardWalkingI can, cuz im feeling a heatwave in my country rn, so it feels like its 40 fucking c.

[@user117]

Jay, please don't add a mini split to your gaming room. Instead, what I would do is install nest thermostats, buy a few flair smart registers, then get yourself a few nest thermostat pucks. By doing this what you effectively do is sub divide your zone into sub zones for each room with flair registers and puck sensors. The flair registers would close down on rooms already cooled and open up in the rooms that are hot. Your AC would know to call even in a room your thermostats aren't in since the pucks act as remote satellite thermostats, and the flair units stop the already cooled rooms from going below the setpoint. This would also massively increase your AC efficiency and direct only to specific rooms as needed. The efficiency of calling to a specific room(s) vs an entire zone is the most effective method. Also assuming your trunks are modern you should have a return trunk in each room to feed back to the air handler and closing a rooms door doesn't effect static pressure anymore. Older homes used to require large gaps under doors or a cross room vent to allow return to common areas but kills privacy and room isolation. Use the room as a plenum and the flair registers as a damper control w/o having to rip walls open to modify existing ductwork.

[@PunkXone]

Lol try living in a tropical country during peak summer, with no HVAC or AC (or one which is used sparingly due to high energy costs), and using a high-end rig. That's what real torture feels like.

[@abunk8691]

Was just gonna make a similar comment then I saw yours and I say YES

[@soniccdx]

staying in a tropical country i can confirm this ...

[@Kainis80]

@@AnomalousURL some tropical countries don't have the infrastructure to provide high power demands such as central air, etc. The user may have an otherwise decent shelter, but the community doesn't have the infrastructure for extra perks like central air.

[@45eno]

Good time to utilize framerate caps. Maybe 90fps, 120fps etc.

[@BobBobson]

@@AnomalousURL What's even weirder is fans are pretty cheap to run. Just my 3060 pulls about the same power as 2 20" box fans on high. If I'm playing something CPU heavy throw in another box fan there. Spinning rust, RAM, speakers, monitor, that's all about another box fan. If you can't afford to run a box fan you sure as fuck can't afford to run a "high end" PC.

[@jamesmonschke747]

For a long time, I have been wanting to put a fluid/fluid heat-exchanger in my water cooling loop to inter-connect it to a ground sourced heat-loop. In most places, a few feet underground will stay a consistent 50°F / 10°C.

[@infinitywulf]

My solution in the summer is, take the old portable AC I used at an apartment that didn't have AC and put that in my computer room. In the winter, crank the pc up for the "free" heat! I will say I think that my old comp actually heated my room more not because it ran hotter, but was more consistently hot while running due to less airflow/etc. I used to use crossflow through a computer room before like Jay mentioned, but allergies keep me from opening windows for most of the year now. 🤧

[@dr.tobiasgoodfellow5174]

I wouldn’t call running your P.C. in the winter “free heat” since a gaming P.C. uses a lot of electricity.

[@joyfulwarrior7597]

Placing a window AC next to the PC case makes all the difference in the world. In winter time its my main heater for the room

[@Joeyzoom]

Motivating quote of the day from J2C "Be fucking productive." 😂

[@EldenLord84]

I have a box fan sending cool air into my office from the kitchen. That has helped quite a bit. I also turn the ceiling fan on in the office to get more air circulating. I keep my thermostat at 78 (26 Celsius) and my 14700k (air cooled) / 4080 Super stay low-60’s Celsius while gaming without heating up the room much.

[@hansmaker1236]

with, or without EK?

[@drw4338]

If you live in the north like I do (Minnesota), you can definitely use the weather to your advantage. I set my desk up in front of a window so the exhaust fan on the back of my case can blow directly outside when I crack the window open a little bit. It works good year round as long as the temps outside are not too high, but in the winter (since hot moves to cold) the heat is basically sucked outside.

[@MrRez808]

Omg I remember that room Jay. Got such a nostalgia hit when you talked about 😊

[@bryanluis6868]

Honestly after I lower my shutter and slightly open my window during the day (even a hot one) I noticed a difference. Also (might be a little overkill but not expensive), without changing anything in my room (computer included) I got myself a mini fan (about 1 and a half times the size of my hand), turning it op pointed as my intake fans (from about half a meter away) actually helped without costing too much, it creates a little cold air canal and reduces the heat from the computer (even on hotter days bcs the speed from the air it sends dissipates the heat, yes I tested and it works even if the reason I just gave wasn't the cause), the fan cost me a bit under 20€ and boosted my pc's performance by helping with the cooling. Quick note, if you have a mesh on the top part remove it while you use the computer, since those are always exhaust fans no dush will come in (the main reason there is a mesh), the mesh "blocks" a bit the fan. Don't forget to put it back as soon as you're done. But the best advice is to turn off the pc, even for just 15/20 minutes periodically, let it cool down by itself, meanwhile just watch a video, go organize smt or take a shower (

[@Bagline]

Nice dad rant lol. 14 minutes and you're FINALLY getting to the explanation that cooling something faster doesn't mean less heat. edit: finished watching. I've always kinda wanted to just move my tower to the other side of the wall (or floor) and run slightly longer cables directly through. If I have a fan on me, it often gets to 80-85f before I even really notice the door is closed. When I open the door it will go down to ~75f and with the fan it's perfectly comfortable for me. (disclosure: I drove 2 years in Phoenix without AC... got used to it)

[@the_dark_defender]

When sizing an HVAC unit, it's crucial to pick one that can cool the area effectively, run long enough to dehumidify the air, and lower the humidity in the space. While I don't reside in California, where the climate is drier, I assume it is possible to rapidly cool a space using an oversized unit without raising humidity levels significantly.

[@JonasVilander]

Even if your home is well insulated and whatnot, one major thing you can have done to help cool your gaming room/office/bedroom better while having the door closed is have an HVAC company run an extra return in it or an adjoining closet. It usually only costs $300-600 to do this. I recently did this and had the return put in my office's closet(that functions as a small server rack closet too). Now all my server and networking gear stays relatively cool, and my office with my gaming rig stays comfortable too. Same principle also applies if you have a wing of your house that is always kinda warm too(and likely isn't getting good return airflow).

[@outlet6989]

Here in Florida, it costs $300-600 to have an HVAC park their truck in your driveway.

[@saleplains]

here in California you just dont get to own a home at all 🥲

[@justherefortalking]

This is part of why I was so hyped for modern generation Ryzen iGPUs. This 16" laptop runs at 60W full bore for my aging Steam library, idles around 15W. I'm not bothering to aircon because the climate is mild enough to tolerate as long as I'm not dumping heat into the room, plus it's a 100+ year old house. My power bill is very happy.

[@VolcanoPenguin]

Coming straight from the EK video from GN, this was a nice and much needed mood change. My PC can get a bit spicy. It was a nice to have when my heater failed for a bit over the past winter. Edit: 19:44 Can confirm. I work concrete. Also did you know that when concrete is poured, the initial drying process (curing) is actually a chemical reaction between the ingredients and water, and that chemical reaction is an exothermic reaction? Concrete is a heat source for the first part of its life, albeit not a strong source.

[@kryptonitecb]

back when I did construction it was always nice to lay on a monolithic pad a few days after the pour, used it to warm up in the morning while waiting for the day to start

[@deadlymecury]

I think I've heard of some fire or something like that happened on a construction site because they poured to much concrete and didn't account for heat whatsoever. Probably it was a tunnel...

[@sethjones9371]

Not sure if this gets lost, but watercooling or moving to a more efficient heat exchange CAN AND LIKELY WILL cause your room temperature to increase. Here's the thermodynamics, by cooling your components more efficiently, you allow them to increase their thermal headroom and allow MORE voltage and current throughout the components. Thus more power into the PC and more power (heat) out to the room.

[@claytonbone418]

Anyone else find it frustrating that you have to watch a 20 min video to be provided with "tips" such as open a window or put an A/C unit in your room. I can see the stop pushing your pc so hard doing minimal tasks as a tip, but for those of us who need to intentionally push our PC hard were basically given no tips that weren't already common knowledge.

[@Leptospirosi]

There is no thing as "cooling for free" in the wrong season. No Jay will save you from basic thermodynamics 😂

[@S1D1T1DO]

Installed a Samsung bathroom vent fan over my desk to pull hot air out. Bought a BXR vornado floor fan and put it over the vent register. Works really well, even in a small room.

[@sheratedis]

We have coldest April for a long time here in Finland, so I'm happy when my PC makes my room sauna.

[@shaderdream]

Regarding types of heaters, one common type is referred to as a ceramic heater, which has some kind of heating element sandwiched between large heatsinks with lots of thin fins and has a fan blowing air through between the fins to both cool off the heater itself and carry the heat out. The heater itself doesn't need to stay warm/hot, though likely does still end up quite warm or hot. It does (or at least should if working properly) cool itself enough to keep its likely plastic casing from melting.

[@tutorgamesOG]

I'm so glad you made this.

[@leebell8946]

When I was renting(cant modify building) my was my bedroom was upstairs and would get stupidly hot(30*C +) all year round even without my PC running. There was a Mini-Split AC but wanted a cheaper to run option. My solution was replacing the manhole with a MDF board. Which I had cut a hole in and mounted a bathroom exhaust fan. I somewhat cable managed an extension lead from a 24 hour timer to the fan. With the fan set to run from midday to roughly sunset. The difference was around 5-10 degree drop. Total cost was about $40. Took it with me when I moved out. And now the MDF+fan is setup to exhaust out a window.

[@Seacow650]

This is a long video to just say "You don't "cool" things, you transfer heat out of them."

[@ImnotgoingSideways]

Basically, if electricity isn't converted in motion or light, it's converted into heat. Aside from RGB, fans, and pumps; everything in a PC is developing heat. So, comparing a 1KW PC to a 1KW space heater is practically perfect. 20:23 Exactly what I did. I 3D printed a 'hood' for the main outlet on my case connected to a forced-air 4" duct which blows out to the hallway. The force blower is something I designed with some 3D printed 120mm fan to 4" adapters and a stator to aid a Noctua fan's static pressure.

[@Ladioz]

I would assume the perfect situation would be if you had your computer desk buy a window, and the rear exhaust fans are blowing all the hot air outside of the window lol

[@theceilidhinthemists]

That can cause problems too, since you're creating negative pressure and will cause more warm air from outside to leak into your home. This is why most portable air conditioners suck

[@ianpogi256]

I used to think that having a vent directly from pc to a window will fix any heating issues. I then found out that due to how insualtion, pressure and airflow works, I was pretty much creating access for heat to easily exchange into my already well insulated home. Not to mention the humidity and dust that will flow back to the pc regardless of fans Don't make my mistake and just simply turn on the fan mode on your centralized ac instead. U can get a window unit if you really want to simply focus on cooling your room but that's ultimately a little less efficient and a lot louder.

[@Ladioz]

@@theceilidhinthemists Yes definitely. Please Imagine all the dust coming inside the bedroom with the window open (depending on where you live). I guess if you want a computer that doesn't overheat you have to search components that dont use so much power. Basically avoiding high end intel cpus and high end amd gpu. Gotta find a middle balance. Sure undervolting is a choice but im sure everyone loves to have everything out of the box. I fixed my overheating problem by buying a Cougar Airface tower case, which has its front intake fans very close to all the components. meaning you're not really exhausting hot air, because you're not giving your components a chance to get hot in the first place... max temps are 65 and 63 on gpu and motherboard while gaming. 71 and 72 at artificial stress test. PS. Silent Wings 4 High speed are the best fans in the world

[@etherboy3080]

Easy way for people to see your pc and pull it right out the window and drive off or get robbed tho

[@lewie110]

@@ianpogi256 bold of you to assume everyone has centralized ac

[@adamsmith8738]

Hey Jay! HVAC contractor here and a wall hung mini split would do wonders for your room. They cool up to 35°+ across the coil!

[@Tracenji]

my friend has his gaming setup in this really small room and it gets so hot in there, he sits there in his underwear sweating his ass off and his pc is overheating at the same time, it's funny

[@ziff_1]

That does not sound funny.

[@intermilan9731]

Same. I have a bunch of fans, but all they do is blow the same hot air onto my face, so it's kinda pointless. Hopefully I can get an AC unit soon, that will solve the heat issue.

[@Tracenji]

@@ziff_1 it's not funny to experience but it's funny when we talk about it

[@HKLabs-tech]

In the Northern Hemisphere (I live in the US), the northern side of your home will get a lot less direct sun, and the east will get the morning sun. Also, the lower in your home you can keep your PC, the better (heat rises). In the basement would be ideal. My current computer space is the NE corner of our house, but on the second floor (no basement). I had to resort to a window unit, and a curtain over my door to keep the warmer air from just flowing into my space. I've had to put far more effort into figuring out the various conditions to maintain comfort for myself and my equipment than I ever thought I would need.

[@cgriggsiv]

Jay you must be kicking yourself in the ass because of what EK block is doing

[@simoSLJ89]

Last year he stopped his collaboration with Asus. Now I think he will stop his collaboration with EK. But fortunately there are many other companies, I don't think it will be a problem for Jayz.

[@qT_p13]

​@@simoSLJ89 to be fair Jayz never disclosed most of what his 99 problems were, so this could well be one of them.

[@pippifpv]

What has ek done?

[@cgriggsiv]

@@pippifpv You might want to watch Nexus gamer

[@phizc]

​@@pippifpvthey're not paying their bills, including salaries. Gamers Nexus put out a video about it today. Steve was **not** happy. They even had to mute a word.

[@johnvandeven2188]

I live in Western Australia and the temperature throughout summer is almost always around 40 degrees celsius. Homes over here are built using double brick walls and insulation in both the ceiling and under the roof. I also run a 3 phase ducted RC air conditioner. At night we open a window and run ceiling fans but the bedroom is chilled during the day with the AC. Electricity is expensive at 30c per kilowatt hour so only using the AC when really necessary is a mantra that most use. Our electricity prices are about double the cost compared to the USA.

[@JoeMaranophotography]

In the UK last year i only experienced about 3 days where it was too hot to game lol

[@TraeldornTech]

Building off of what Jay said at the end there, that’s basically what I did. I also have a bedroom with to windows on two different walls. I put a window fan in both, one intake, one exhaust. I also set up a vent system for my pc with a vent at the top and an insulated flexible r6 hvac pipe, 4 inches in diameter not including fiberglass insulation. I have 5 intake fans and 3 exhaust fans in the PC case. I sealed off any large extra vents on the case with proper DUCT tape to prevent the over pressure from coming out of the sides and back. I am aware that the over pressure might over spin the top fans, but I have 3 120mm 1500 rpm intake fans and 2 160mm 1600 rpm intake fans. To balance that there are 3 120mm 2000 rpm exhaust fans that blow through my radiator. The insulated hvac pipe leads to a 90 degree elbow fitting that goes out the window held in place by a custom wood frame, and rests perfectly next to the window fan. For anybody wondering, the PC uses about 400 watts. Yes, that may be comparatively small to other systems, but it can and has heated up my bedroom from a comfortable 74 Fahrenheit to an unbearable 82+ Fahrenheit. Yes, my ac unit sucks. Yes, our whole house gets very hot in the summer. We have a cheap old unit that needs replacing. The whole setup for extracting hot air probably cost around $100 USD. The window fans were $30 USD each, I got a good deal on the insulated hvac pipe and fitting at Menards for around $30 USD for both the pipe and elbow connector. It would be more expensive if you chose a 6” diameter tube. Only get a foil tube, not plastic. Those aren’t made for hot air, they’re made to exhaust room temperature gasses or plain air. If you do this, your PC needs to have plenty of fans, and extra vents on the case need to be sealed off. Hope this helped somebody. Edit: I should also mention that I put fiberglass screen on the end of the elbow fitting so no bugs get in. And the window, despite having the fan and wood frame for the fitting, is sealed and doesn’t let any air or bugs in. I also have a solid cover set up for the inside end of the pipe so that I don’t get any airflow from outside.

[@JankyEngineering]

I live in the northern US where it gets brutally cold in the winter. I 3d printed a shroud that captures the exhaust heat from my PC and then hooks up to a couple 3" duct elbows to a hole in the wall which is vented into the main room of my house. It takes much longer to saturate that air with heat as its a much bigger area and in the winter (although marginal) it helps heat my house. At least then the waste heat is put to use.

[@eagleeye-go1mu]

I know what you mean. I live in New England, U.S and in July & August we can get temps around 95 degrees Fahrenheit. My AIO cooled I9-10900k and my RTX 3080 can make my bedroom real warm in the summer. I tried using a 5000 BTU window AC to keep it cool it struggled to even make the room bearable. last summer I had to upgrade to an 8000 BTU AC for my room. and that works wonderfully. (other than the noise)

[@Enakaji]

Regarding the comment about concrete at 19:46, that's actually something most Europeans don't even think about, since Stone or Concrete is basically the "default" material that houses over here are build with, including the interior walls and standard Roof material is usually hard tiles made from either Concrete or burnt Clay. Like f.e. the house I live in was build in 1842 (no, thats not a typo) and the Walls where build with natural stone they got from the area with a outer Wall thickness of 90-100cm. In the summer this house will easily keep the inside temp around 10-15° C below the outside temp without an Hvac system, so if it's 34-36°C outside I'll still have an inside temp of around 20-22 °C.

[@BARRICADE]

I've been in love with open air cases for years now. Less convection heat and more ambient temps can really help with heat dispersion. Thermaltake's P3 case for example is AMAZING. Although you might find yourself dusting/cleaning more often than you would with a closed case. Another tip?, if you have an AIO and a closed case?, try putting the rad outside of the case if you are front mounting. Pop off the case face and mount it there with the fans sucking air in or in a push/pull config. It helps stave off convection heat.

[@Broncin2]

We have two setups in one room, during the winter we open our window and put a box fan in it to bring in cold air. During the summer we leave our door open, drop the Ac down two more degrees (67) and then use the box fan in the hallway to bring in cold air from it.

[@krisraade329]

I have a 4090 and 13900k under blocks with 3 x 360 radiators and the way I keep the room cool is undervolt profiles for summer, I really thought this would have been part of your video. Even just pulling out 100w off the top can drop the component temperature , but the greater benefit is the overall fluid temp from 31-32c to 28c is HUGE in the amount of heat I feel getting dumped into the room and it's manageable .

[@jamesmonschke747]

The PC that I am building right now has a Mo-Ra3 radiator with about 25' of hose connecting it to the PC so that even if I can't reduce the heat, I can "put" the heat where I want it to be.

[@tristangates2797]

BTU/h and Watts are the same unit. (So are Horsepower and Tons Cooling) 1 W = 3.41 BTU/h That means with a gaming rig, monitors etc etc means that ~half the capacity of say a small 5000BTU/h window air conditioner is already only going to be able to remove half of the heat generated, much less actually lower the temperature or remove outside heat or heat from the sun. And that assumes that that cheap AC is under optimal conditions it was rated at, which it likely isn't. Even worse if the indoor air is humid.

[@annieworroll4373]

I bought a small window AC unit to supplement the one that is theoretically sized for my entire mobile home because of my PC. Adding a few hundred watts of heat to a room is definitely noticeable. We talk about getting rid of the CPU heat sometimes, but yeah, we're not doing that, we're just moving it somewhere else where it hopefully causes fewer problems. Basic thermodynamics.

[@FoxRacingGaming]

My 6700 xt will run SUPER HOT, fans at full speed, BUT, I have a tune that OC and UV it and now it never gets above 60-70c(While Gaming/Editing). I imagine the amount of ppl that dont know how to tune their gpu (you can just watch a yt video on how to do it, very easy) , and end up ruining the GPU and dealing with the fans trying to run at nearly 100%. Also, I cant imagine that's any good for the GPU. Like "Zero RPM" Being on by default, dumbest thing ever. I rather have my fans always running, even if is only @700 RPMs bc the GPU isnt being used at the time. This is my example of what a simple OC and UV tune can do for your system. My system is high end and the gpu doesnt pull more that 180 watts while gaming... Just bc the power supply says 1000 Watts doesnt mean thats whats being used ALL the time. TUNE YOUR GPU AND IF YOU HAVE AN AMD CPU RUN RYZEN MASTER AND UTILIZE THE CORES.

[@originalradman9491]

We moved all of our computers into the basement. Heats the basement in the summer and winter. I previously ran a 12000 btu window AC on top of central air to keep the top of the house cool. Now the house is well balanced and comfortable!

[@TruthbtoldMD]

I had to make the room a Laminar flow setup (like an operating room setup), changed my AC to 3 HP from 1.5HP and finally removed all the unnecessary lights (made it like a dark room with minimal lamp lighting). The cost is very high but if you expect that the future PCs will run even more hot the way things are going.

[@Theliquidchaos]

If you must keep the door closed, cut out large vent holes and install vents on it. Also install a bathroom exhaust fan in the ceiling along with the vented door. The door vent allows for cool air to come in while the exhaust fan will cause negative pressure in the room to pull in cool air through the vents.

[@MrSkillfullstill]

I keep my gaming setup in my theater room. It has zero windows and is centralized in the middle of my home. So I couldn’t install a window AC unit or a portable unit. I installed a mini split system with an extended line set. It was a game changer. I can now independently control the AC in that single room and maintain a cool 73 degrees or cooler year round. Highly recommended.

[@thebutterflybuddhas]

I hate to point out the obvious (not sure how Jay missed it) but even just opening your window (yes, even on a hot day) will actually help. As Jay pointed out, if you keep your room sealed, your going to feel that heat, and chances are, if your on a higher end rig, just opening that window will allow more air flow to circulate. Now, it's not going to be the coolest air, but that's not what you're after- you're after the flow which allows for the excess heat to leave. Something I do is prop my window open a little bit and (if you have blinds) close them but flip the top most 4 blades up. This allows the more warm air to leave while not adding too much heat back in. I noticed a decent 8 degree (F) difference in my room running a 2 hour long stress test.

[@Chaddz3]

i used to work for a communications company and we used to build out server rooms. and the hvac system cooling those room were insanely huge. once all the switches, servers UPSes.. etc were in place but not yet powered up, the hvac system would have that room at about 35 degrees F once all the server equipment was started up.. it would quickly come up from freezing to around 75 or 80 very quickly.. its amazing how much heat this stuff puts out.. i live in a 1 bed room apartment and when i first moved in i had a large number of computers running in here.. in the winter i never had to run the heat.. in fact those pc's generated so much heat.. the roof above my apartment was the only section of the roof no no snow on it for pretty much the entire winter..

[@WolfNet907]

I used to work in a datacenter, all air cooled, and it had so much AC it was mindblowing, pun intended. And loud. Earbuds a must. Now I work at a comms company, and its mostly watercooled DC... you can actually talk to someone in front of the racks. Not quiet, but, not the inside of a turbine. Check out all the new watercooled-from-mfg servers from Computex this year, too ;p Hoping those push some of the older units into surplus soon ;p I'm all for DIY but... you cannot beat a pre-designed server system now. Some even watercool/hybrid cool the power supplies and network slots.

[@SimonZerafa]

Turn off the HVAC in the studio and carry on with normal activities. Measure the temperature against the electricity usage and make a graph 🙂🤷‍♂️

[@Dysan72]

14:15 The room might actually be hotter. If your CPU/GPU was throttling due to temperature, Or not even "throttling" just not boosting as high due to temperature, then by improving the cooling you give the processors more head room. So they will turbo more, and for longer, increasing the heat load in the room.

[@XhizorBE]

high ceilings is key here and don't game in a sleeping room. Or try to make you room way bigger. I gamed for years in a sleeping room i moved out to a room with way higher ceiling and much bigger room. And the heat is now defo improved a lot

[@pjavilla]

I live in the tropics, and as a cheapskate I don't have A/C, but I've found that a breeze works decently. The thing is not to just use a fan; a static fan is merely gonna stir the air around in your room, turning it from an oven into an air fryer. You're still getting roasted except more evenly. What you want is a moving breeze that actually moves the heat elsewhere. That's where fans placed on windows in push-pull configurations come into play. Think of it like putting case fans on your house's windows instead of your desktop casing, but using adapter powered 12V fans - USB fans don't quite have the required CFM (they're okay as supplementary fans though).

[@bigta1982]

I live this as an someone that works in a data center. Front of the rack is blasting at like 54 degrees but just 48 inches away at the back of the rack it's in the 90s. HVAC is hardest part of the job in Florida.

[@damiensaintplancat7205]

Thanks for the tips and tricks! I learned a lot more than I thought I would, and will be sure to use that "double open window" trick. Although you mentioned under clocking, I am genuinely surprised you forgot to suggest adding a frame rate cap to each game that already runs faster than your monitor's refresh rate. A large chunk of people have PC's that run something like Minecraft at 450 fps on their 144hz monitor. By capping their frame rate, they would save not only CPU and GPU power draw, but also potentially on their power supply, that might be running at the tail of its efficiency curve. I understand that unlike Jay's solutions of simply upgrading you house's cooling capability, this doesn't apply to everyone. But if this was my scenario, it would be the first thing I'd look into before asking my landlord if I can install an HVAC. Thanks again for the great content! I look forward to more water cooling episodes (Probably not with EK by the looks of things).

[@shadowhawk320]

FYI, in almost all cases, microwaves do not diminish the nutrient density of your food. It is simply an alternate method of heating your food. There are few exceptions but that applies to any form of cooking as well.

[@pixelsafoison]

With the prices of electricity here in Europe I think there's a real market for a box that you would be able to put outside your window (weatherproof) that would dissipate the heat without having to yolo it. It always takes more power to lower the temperature than to just dump it outside. The heat will probably lead me to main a n100 whenever I only do light computing tasks

[@Fluckinoob]

I just bought a pre-built 4070 super with i9 14900k and it's water cooled. It makes my room SOOOO much cooler than my old pc

[@Double.G]

My room gets hot, there's no return and one a giant window -- facing the sun all day. I've considered multiple of these solutions, including using a drier vent into the wall and dumping it into the hallway or even outside! It's great in the winter, I don't even let the HVAC heat in. My solutions have been keeping my door open with a standing fan blowing out of the door, and opening the window when it's cooler outside. Also mostly game at night.