It Took Me 4 MONTHS to Hand Sew a Medieval Dress (Kirtle) | going braless has never been more comfy

I used to be able to hand sew an 18th-century gown in about 8-12 hours. This kirtle took me *forever*. (aka I'm really out of practice...oof) As much as I can see issues with it, and things I wish to change, I am still extremely happy with the outcome!
I don't know what it is about 2020, but between all the glorious Medieval reenactors and costumers on Instagram and KZbin (looking at you ‪@MorganDonner‬). The idea of making a medieval outfit has been in my brain for most of the year. (Let's be honest, it probably has something to do with plague and bardcore)
If you've been on this journey with me, you know that I've already made my medieval smock ( • Hand-Sewing a Medieval... ) and struggled through my hose ( • I tried to sew a pair ... ). This video is about making my medieval kirtle. Part sewing vlog, part sewing tutorial, I hope you enjoy going on this little adventure with me.
(I do show how to do a running back stitch, pretty hand sewn eyelets, and how to make cloth buttons without molds or stuffing.)
I made my medieval kirtle out of a red wool flannel (the same fabric I used to make my Belemnite dress: • Sew With Me! | The Bel... ) with osnaburg linen from ‪@BurnleyandTrowbridge‬ as my lining. I used 30wt silk thread and buttonhole twist for all of my sewing, and heavyweight linen thread to make my buttons. The lacing is actually cotton candle wicking (because I'm still working on the lucet braid lol). My wimple and veil are from a vintage deadstock linen fabric that I am hoarding like a dragon.
🧵Shopping Suggestions (No affiliates):
Wool Fabric: burnleyandtrowbridge.com/coll... OR en.thehistoricalfabricstore.c...
Linen for the Lining: burnleyandtrowbridge.com/coll... OR en.thehistoricalfabricstore.c...
Wool Braid for Hem Binding: burnleyandtrowbridge.com/coll...
Thread:
For Buttons: burnleyandtrowbridge.com/coll...
For Dress Construction: www.britexfabrics.com/notions... & www.britexfabrics.com/notions...
🖼Images Used:
Royal 20 C V f. 96 Irene painting a picture: www.bl.uk/catalogues/illuminat...
Royal 20 C V f. 30v Arachne weaving:
www.bl.uk/catalogues/illuminat...
Royal 16 G V f. 15 Thisbe:
www.bl.uk/catalogues/illuminat...
🥳Socials
Instagram: / abbyelyn
Patreon: / abbycox
Tiktok: @nabs_co
📚My books:
The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Dressmaking: amzn.to/2GrkAIQ
The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Beauty: amzn.to/2TTwJtq
💌Business Inquiries ONLY [e-mail]
(This email goes directly to my management and not to me.)
🎶Music via Epidemic Sound (www.epidemicsound.com)
**I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. By purchasing items through the links listed above, I could earn a small commission for your purchase. Thank you.❤

[@Hildegardvonblingin]

Really feeling the need to make one too, but I must admit.....I’d probably end up using my machine. 😂 This turned out gorgeous! (Okay also can I say it’s the most beautiful, wholesome thing to see all the historical/vintage/crafty women of KZbin lifting each other up?) ♥️

[@AbbyCox]

Would you like to join our Red Kirtle Society (tm) we would love to have you! We have no meetings, no organization, zero promise of anything (except maybe a sweet enamel pin one day)... we just love a good red kirtle! 😂 (Also, I'm currently battling demonetization issues with this video, and I cannot tell you how much seeing your comment has cheered me up! ❤)

[@bernadettebanner]

one 👏 of 👏 us 👏 one 👏 of 👏 us 👏

[@Hildegardvonblingin]

@@bernadettebanner 💃 < the best I can find for appropriate emojis 🤣

[@Hildegardvonblingin]

@@AbbyCox Honestly there’s such a nice ring to Red Kirtle Society. I would be honoured to join, though I’ve only just started dipping my toes in historical sewing. 🤓 I’m sorry about the pesky demonetization! I’m not even sure what the bots are latching on to, but I hope it isn’t too hard to sort out.

[@cameronwarmerdam4251]

Hildegard von Blingin I am dying your name is the best thing I have ever seen and the profile pic (Hildegard is absolutely incredible)

[@MorganDonner]

AW HELL YEAH! RED KIRTLE SOCIETY 👏REP👏RE👏SENT!👏

[@rebekahwood62]

My great grandmother was apart of Red Hat Society (rip grandma ruby ❤️) so I am getting really good vibes from the Red Kirtle Society 🥰❤️🥺❤️

[@helliruna]

yhhhhh, poor me, the red is much better on my stockings, then on my kirtle. :(

[@talosheeg]

Could I join the red kirtle society?

[@kateruch7196]

OK - so I NEVER post any comments on youtube, but had to comment here. I first read this as RED KIRTLE SOCIETY REPENT! I am not a historical dressmaker, etc to all the stuff you ladies do, but fell down a rabbit hole recently and have been bouncing between Bernadette, Morgan, Nicole, and Abby (and probably more before too long). I think I stumbled across the videos while searching for a way to tie my hair up with 1 hand (still unable to do this). I broke the ball off my humerus (which is NOT funny) and have been on short term disability since the end of September and am finally recovered enough to sit at a desk and watch videos while football or Ancient Aliens is on in the other room (1 game a week is enough for me). I was NOT looking for kirtles, BUT I was this past summer and never thought to look on youtube. I started reading (and have not finished) "Mist Over Pendle", which is about witchcraft in Lancashire, England and all the discussion on Margery's clothing, in particular the kirtle, made me need to understand. I'm thinking that a red color kirtle would not be very Puritan, which is probably why I read this as RED KIRTLE SOCIETY REPENT. Pretty sure Margery went for some orange color I didn't understand and got nowhere when I googled it - you ladies would probably be able to help me with that, but I'm not looking for the book right now. I finally do thanks to all you lovely ladies. Since I'm already rambling, I'll just keep going a bit. The reason I decided to read "Mist Over Pendle" is because I have some ancestors that lived there back in the 1800s, so probably before that as well. I do a lot of genealogy (my hobby when I have time and you are pulling me away from that with all your fabulous videos). I tend to stick with US based research as I am used to the sources much more than I am with the British stuff. My aunt, who lived in England, did a lot of that side, but she passed away a few years ago. Luckily she gave me access to her tree, so I can at least review her research when the mood strikes. Lately I make a game of connecting people I know to me, or local people from the past that I know about... ex - my neighbors that I grew up next door to, the previous owners of my parents house & grist mill... stuff like that. My parents were heavily involved in local history since 1976, so I learned a lot through osmosis. (The local LMTHS Museum is even named after them www.lmthistory.org/museum.html).

[@heidsterzsoups2133]

I really hope someone can help me with this, but I'd like to make a medieval kirtle for a costume but I don't want to break the bank with expensive wool fabric for this project. I'm a large woman (measurements 50--40--50 inches) and I want to try making this kirtle out of flannel. Would that be doable? Is blended flannel (something that could be found at Jo-Ann Fabrics) durable enough for a tight kirtle? If not flannel, is there another cheap weighty fabric that would work well for this project?

[@MomsMakingHistory]

3 year old: Mom whatcha watching? Me: Abby Cox making a kirtle. 3 year old: Why is she making a turtle?

[@AbbyCox]

😂😂😂

[@gemavaliente7675]

Aw ♡

[@rd6203]

ABBY PLEASE MAKE A TURTLE FOR THIS CHILD! 😁😆

[@sianthesheep]

That's so cute!

[@lizethvelardeperez12]

@@rd6203 improvise one without the knitting since she cant do that.. hmmm... how to make turtle rabbit hole...

[@nataliestanchevski4628]

Everyone is like "making a kirtle is super simple" and then 20 mock ups later the dress is covered in blood, sweat, and tears lol.

[@lenabreijer1311]

All period garments require blood sacrifices

[@jaisanrobb3520]

Yes! Is it really a sewing project if you haven’t bled and cried on it? Possibly also thrown it in the naughty corner to think about it’s bad behavior...

[@VoodooAngel63]

Maybe that's why red was such a popular color.

[@swirlbun]

Good thing most were red

[@annapettit8045]

I clicked this because my brain was like "a, a red kirtle. This must be Morgan Donner" so I was surprised to hear Abby's voice in my ears!

[@AbbyCox]

We are members of the red kirtle society 😂

[@juliamcarter2000]

Me too!

[@MrYoungwhip]

Yes! I said - Morgan sounds different! And lo and behold it’s Abby!

[@saritshull3909]

tbh same

[@jillianhoryn3078]

I'm fairly certain your sisterhood is growing as Ms. Banner also made a red medieval dress (I'm just not sure it was a kirtle).

[@embergqvist7900]

Not caring about the inside is true historic

[@MossyMozart]

@Em Bergqvist - That's at least true for the non-wealthy who didn't have people to make clothing for them!

[@battlebear437]

@@MossyMozart although, after watching the unboxing videos and seeing even some of the fancier outfits not being perfect on the inside is quite nice.

[@mollysmith1711]

I love seeing experienced costumers tackle a different era than they're comfortable with! Go Abby!!

[@brigidscaldron]

I came to say this!!! It makes me feel braver about trying things because if YOU struggle, it NORMALIZES it for us! 💗

[@samanthab3292]

@@brigidscaldron we all struggle with things sometimes 💖

[@kayak3595]

I love seeing people in historical costumes do normal awkward people things because it helps remains me that even people in the past were awkward people like me.

[@Elizabeth-rq1vi]

It really humanizes them eh? And let’s us know we really haven’t changed all that much over the centuries! 😁😂

[@nidomhnail2849]

Three comments 1) beautiful garment. Did not know that the sleeves from that era had buttons. 2) seeing you stop and redo is encouraging. Let's face it; perfection is boring - I would love to know how many chicken dishes Julia Child ruined or how many times they needed a redo on This Old House. 3) I have noticed that KZbin awards KZbinrs at various stages with plaques and such. IMHO, having colleagues turn your name into a verb (Rachel Maksy) is better recognition than any plaque.

[@sans-seraph]

Right? I swear the best part of watching these videos is realizing I've gone from "I could *never* do that!" to "... yeah, I can't do that just yet, but give me time!"

[@estherurwin3487]

I need to know: in which video does Rachel use Abby’s name as a verb? I need to hear her do that, I am weird like that.

[@annedavis3340]

Julia Child's early TV was done live. There's one where she tries flipping a potato dish, it doesn't go well, she explains how it didn't go right, what she could have done differently to have flipped it successfully, and then as she's heaping the food from the stove back into the pan, on the fly tells you she's going to add cream and lots of cheese on the now-crumbly-top, bake it that way, and that no one will know what you Meant To Do I think that was the "The Potato Show" episode. I absolutely agree seeing the mess-ups is part of learning. If that's what you want to see from Julia Child it's absolutely out there, though. By the 90s they were probably really smoothing her out into a non-human, but there's also stuff where she isn't as good at taking a Dover sole to task as a woman working at a French market had been (she had the Frenchwoman teach US and then was back in the studio reminding viewers what they had just seen, with more camera angles. She messes up, shows you how to correct it, says it's ok to not be good at it to start with, something like what matters is that you're doing it, and we're off to the next step of the recipe :) Really recommend seeking them out, I grew up watching the Perfect Julia Child of the 90s, and while that was also lovely, her early shows were a revelation of joy for me :) Happy sewing!

[@aleshakant]

@@estherurwin3487 19:12 Abby uses Rachel’s name as a verb

[@DrCandyStriper]

​@@annedavis3340perhaps Martha Stewart would have been a better example. She always struck me as much more Stepford (barring the insider trading of course)

[@McNerdyCostumesandProps]

“The inside isn’t quite as pretty as the outside but no one sees it, so I don’t actually care.” I feel this in my very soul and I’m so happy you powered through. It looks fantastic!

[@ReisigSeeds]

Thank you for showing the mistakes. Thank you for showing that you didn’t know the wheel was for tracing paper. I truly mean this.

[@IonIsFalling7217]

The best thing I ever learned about sewing is that the seam ripper is as important and beloved a tool as the needle and thread. ❤️

[@evelynpageau2292]

SOOOOOOOO fun fact. Your tracing wheel is actually a pounce wheel and used to transfer lines from one paper pattern piece to another. (like you were doing with the sharpy). The proper tracing wheel is less pointy stabby and more bumpy and that gives you a stronger line with the tracing paper. However if you are using a white fabric or something that might show the lines really well, using the pounce wheel is a good idea because it won't leave such a harsh line.

[@susanrobertson984]

I bought a set and have never used either of them so thank you for explaining how to use them!

[@KatieCottingham]

@@susanrobertson984 It's awesome, although very surprising you could find both wheels on a set! When I went through pattern drafting I had to search all over for sign makers supply (which is technically where the pointy wheel comes from, not the garment making world). One great tip I learned first in scene painting class that translates if you have a heavier pattern paper, like brown shipping paper, you can actually take those holes and just use a chalk bag to pounce your lines; no hand drawing those chalk lines so long as you've got a good weight holding the paper down!

[@zuzuspetals9281]

@@KatieCottingham My husband is a sign painter and uses hid with a chalk bag and patterns. Even though he changed over to using vinyl years ago we still have his patterns for when he does gold leaf work which is his specialty. My mom used hers for tracing patterns when she sewed our clothes when I was a kid.

[@felicitygee381]

Thank you Evelyn! I have a "tracing wheel" yes, it was sold as that, but it actually cuts holes in the patterns and the fabric underneath so, pretty useless. So this is all useful info 😎

[@TheAgeofFabulous]

Abby, showing your vulnerability over crying about RBG, I feel ya. Thank you for including that because I wanted to crawl through the video and hug you (in COVID friendly gear) in sisterhood.

[@AbbyCox]

I actually have the entire thing on camera - my mom coming in a telling me, me looking it up on my phone, and then sobbing for about 10 minutes. I was going to add it to the video, but I decided against it, mostly because it didn't really tell the story of the kirtle...❤️

[@healedkyber]

May her memory be a blessing

[@ItsJustLisa]

@@AbbyCox, I think a lot of us ugly cried that day.

[@bobbibuttons8730]

@@healedkyber amen I was actually going to write the same as you.

[@ReneePowell]

I found out right before my wedding rehearsal (wedding was via Twitch the next day). A LOT of us ugly cried that day.

[@BoneGender]

Do you ever just put on some of these historical pieces and walk around old sites hoping that someone will think you're a ghost

[@feezlfuzzl564]

It would be especially fun to wear European Medieval stuff in America. Or ancient Celtic or Roman.

[@CraftyInTheory]

...now I have a new Winter Goal...

[@sianthesheep]

I did freak out some people once by standing next to a grave a churchyard in full on victorian costume aka The Woman in Black. They didn't see me until they were very close and actually screamed.

[@mialemon6186]

I know this is a year old, but I've tried desperately to convince my spouse that we have to buy a historic home and keep it restored purely so I can walk around our yard late at night in appropriate dress to scare the shit out of people driving by. 😂🤣

[@DreamerNumber3]

"Not all heroes wear capes, some wear wimples" is a fabulous thing I may need to cross-stitch in the future. Also, I love your frozen pan-down reveal at the end! And that is the best cover of Greensleeves I've ever heard lol. And what a good dog!!!!

[@mnels5214]

Thank you for showing us your rides on the strugglebus. I've had projects where I've actually taken one strugglebus only to get on a struggleuber. Going backwards the whole time.

[@ThisIsReMarkable]

struggleuber ohmygosh! That's fantastic, I love it. 😂 More expensive than the bus too!!

[@mnels5214]

@@ThisIsReMarkable 😂😂

[@nicoledeloncrais5940]

Oh babe I feel your pain, adds new meaning to WEEPING, WAILING and gnashing of teeth :-(. Learning new things, and re learning can be brutal, yet oddly satisfying!

[@dismynameyo1674]

i really hope you don't take this the wrong way because i admire and appreciate your work and craftsmanship immensely, but my first thought seeing this dress was "wow, that is sexy.😳" i swear i'm not some creepy old dude haha, but this video really made me rethink my view on clothing and female sexuality through the ages! i was always kind of under the impression that women only started to show their bodies when they started to shed layers, but it seems that they always had this innate knowledge of accentuating their curves and flattering the body. it really makes one think and reconsider the prudish "olden times." thank you for this valuable insight!

[@susanrobertson984]

I think the prudish "olden times" were all pretty much Victorian. I mean, regency dresses were literally see-through and designed to push the bust up high and show lots of cleavage.

[@Natopera]

I don't like Victorian fashion either, for the most part it makes me think of a little girl's idea of a fancy dress. I think 18th century dresses are much sexier, even though they are huge, they show a lot more skin. Victorian stuff just feels repressed to me.

[@nicoledeloncrais5940]

Congrates! What a spectacular notice and well done curves are beautiful and seeing ourselves more as an historic whole gives as so much awareness. Brilliant comment.

[@SobrietyandSolace]

@@Natopera Lolita over here feeling personally attacked for my bows and ruffles and compulsory blouses because shoulders are sinful

[@Natopera]

@@SobrietyandSolace you can have my share. I run a Georgian bookclub on KZbin partly because the Georgian fashion suits me better.

[@brookewelborn2806]

I love seeing you work through a project until it is successful...and my cat loves watching you too!

[@AbbyCox]

Does it give you flashbacks?😂❤️

[@brookewelborn2806]

@@AbbyCox well at least no wine was involved in the cutting portion...

[@lspthrattan]

If it takes a knowledgeable person like you four months to make a kirtle, then I don't feel quite as bad for taking so long to finish my shift, lol. In my defense, it IS all handstitched. However imperfect, it's all mine. :D I wonder how long it'll take me to make the kirtle? Oh Lordy.... If it turns out as well as yours, I'll be quite happy, however long it takes.

[@annbrookens945]

"Make a kirtle, they said. It'll be fun, they said." It's beautiful, Abby! Thanks for sharing with us.

[@mollysmith1711]

"Thread on the face" is so relatable I can't

[@mautzbeere3041]

please excuse my weirdnes... but somehow there's now a wild Santa-Septa-Abby in my mind, jingling bells and shaming me for not using my thimble...

[@k_golly_g]

So, is your Christmas album hitting the stores soon? I could use that warbling while I wrap presents. (The kirtle is gorgeous too obviously.)

[@AbbyCox]

BAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAAH *warbling* being the keyword here LOL

[@randomvielleuse527]

@@AbbyCox I LOVED IT that you sang!

[@VoodooAngel63]

"Greensleeves" is now retitled "Redsleeves"

[@battlebear437]

I do love hearing the little tunes.

[@sandraab8174]

I feel your pain also yes I don't know how Rachel does it she's the magical Project Fairy!

[@Butterflier00]

she also uses a machine to sew.

[@rachelboersma-plug9482]

@@Butterflier00 She also doesn't usually spend much time on fitting, or finishing seams. That's not intended as a criticism; if that's the way she prefers to work, and she's happy with the result, good for her.

[@VoodooAngel63]

I think Frodo helps when we're not watching.

[@nicoledeloncrais5940]

No kidding! She really is brillo!

[@RoisinsReading]

This makes me really want to make one of these but tea length and sans wimple for every day wear

[@teganandrew8213]

Morgan donner has one or two videos where she basically does that and then styles them a few ways that are appropriate for professional office wear

[@astra1653]

That would be really pretty!

[@meandmilo7675]

Crazy when you think about how all the fabrics were hand woven too🤯

[@meandmilo7675]

@@iacobushadrianus7889 oh yea lol that makes more sense 🤣 thanks for the knowledge

[@anneslota]

If you can struggle this much and still make a beautiful kirtle out of it, then I can probably write this essay... #inspirational

[@Savvy1718]

In the same boat - I used this video as a distraction from mine. This is a good sign that I need to get back to work I guess..!

[@abbypayne4496]

I’m so glad I’m not the only one who starts projects thinking I got this, I know what I’m doing when in fact I do not. Thank you for the realness Abby! It turned out great!! 👍🏻

[@catherinerw1]

That's gorgeous, and yes, it's actually helpful to the rest of us mere mortals to see that mistakes are a learning experience! The bit at the end reminds me of the titles to Blackadder II (and if you haven't seen it, I strongly recommend it).

[@rejoyce318]

I think Blackadder II is my favorite of the 4 series. Of course, now I have the theme as an ear worm, but it's all good. :)

[@kme]

@@rejoyce318 II and IV are my favourites. We're always quoting from the series (I got the annotated script for Christmas one year lol it's hilarious) and even my little girl loves it. She lives for sarcasm, a true chip of the ol' block 😁

[@TudorositiesbyMaureen]

Piecing is period correct all through Medieval and Renaissance period. It’s sometimes more mathy than I like but I get what you were trying to achieve. Well done on the drafting and use of fabric. I might have one tracing wheel, never knew it’s use. Thanks for the information! It may have taken a lot longer but the facing and lining are just chef kiss*

[@TheMetatronGirl]

Huzzah!!! She be complete!! It looks GORGEOUS!! Damn, I’m impressed. I’ve sewn a kirtle, in the past (nowhere near as beautifully), and completely understand the time commitment. You never cease to amaze me with your sewing. On a side note, I REALLY enjoyed watching you create. I love all your content, but my heart belongs to the sewing. Well done, Milady, and I hope you have a much more relaxed week.

[@amiejo]

I’m jealous of the fact that you have a neighbor that will come over and help you draft sleeves. In like 40 years can we start our own commune/retirement village where we all help each other with historical sewing and witchy gardening in our cute little cottages?

[@faithwerksdesigns6197]

What's up with you and Morgan? You guys are switching up your time periods on us lol, Looks great, I know it was a lot of work and yes you are VERY blessed with an amazing friend! Love Nicole and her videos. When are you guys just gonna start your own company already? Steal your friends and just start your own business!! Patterns? Shoes? You guys know a lot and you know we'd support you!

[@AbbyCox]

*whistles*

[@FlybyStardancer]

Yay for it being finished!!! And I feel you on projects taking longer than you think they should. I have a simple gathered skirt I started back in August. Still not done.

[@lorrainetresnak7761]

The red wool is gorgeous and I love how the kirtle came out. Thanks for persevering. And yes, I have no idea how Rachel Maksy does it either!

[@abigailmurphy535]

Uggghhhhh I want to make allllll the prettyyyyyy historical dresses and wear themmmmm everywhereee, but material is expensive and I have no time 😭😭😭

[@invadersin5203]

Abby keeping it real, with fabric near misses and new discoveries. It's so comforting to when people you look up to and follow, have the same issues as you.

[@Otterwaffle]

OMG THE TRACING PAPER GOES UNDERNEATH?! This is actually life changing to me too LOL

[@SueK2001]

Honestly this is such a mood. I am a major procrastinator and absolutely hate laying down pattern, pinning it down and then cutting pieces out. That alone would take me a month. And then I wouldn’t have the patience to hand sew the gown, it would be machine sewing all the way for me and maybe even accidentally setting the wrong sleeve in the wrong armhole (I may or may not have done that several times on gowns) lol. Anyway this red kirtle turned out beautifully and you look stunning in red. 🥰

[@annajustis3434]

This

[@itzel1735]

Abby, you are us. Don’t beat yourself up. Lovely setting for the reveal, especially the birch and the rushes.

[@Absintheskiss]

Hurrah for getting it finished! Thanks for showing the rough with the smooth with this garment.

[@8Forester]

As much as I hate picking out my seams... picking out HAND-SEWN seams is even worse. Feeling your suffering deep, my love! You did great!!!

[@StephanieCanada]

This turned out so great! I am glad you were finally able to get it all done. Also, any time you said “Medieval” all I could hear was Ask a Morticians theme of “The Middle Ages were Magic”

[@amysullivan2414]

Thank you so much for sharing your struggles. It helps a beginner to see that even a pro is always learning😊

[@januzzell8631]

What an absolutely fascinating, fabulous journey! Thank you for taking us on it - although I will admit that my FAVOURITE bit (apart from the Final Lewk) was the shot of Editing Abby laughing her socks off at Sewing Abby and then the final JUDGE stare - Glorious!! Thank you

[@theromanticacademic]

1) this kirtle rocks! 2) your stitches are so nice! and 3) thank you for actually showing real time frustration footage while sewing! I'm new to costube (and in love) and it's so refreshing to see! Thank you for your work!

[@jcwittig]

Am I the only one that finds the noise from cutting the fabric with scissors it's just hypnotizing?? That's my favourite part of sewing is when I cut my pieces from the fabric

[@roseuyen]

WILKINSON EXO SILVER... i think these are it, and I'm going through and replying to the comments about the scissors bc I thought they were beautiful and it took me a bit to track them down with Google

[@kristinniemiec8461]

There’s a gal on here “sewing through the past” who made a kirtle a while back. Her videos are gorgeous and her accent is lovely to listen to.

[@marisa3483]

Yes! Her videos are amazing!

[@Yan-ri2jg]

I'll check her out then!

[@artistical88]

Sometime in the future, could you talk about “grain” and why it is important to be aware of?

[@fantasieanime]

Grain is the direction of the weave of the fabric, if you imagine like on a sweater the direction of the yarn weave then make it waaay smaller. Basically the reason why its important is it changes the way the fabric stretches and gives dependent on gravity and strain

[@jessicabaros9803]

I, too, would like this! I am self-taught, and we hear/read sooo much about grain but I really only learned it from a friend showing me and then lots of trial and error ( and wonky projects). Video for the visual learners please :)

[@michellebyrom6551]

The grainline is on the length of the fabric and should run down the body in the completed garment. A pattern piece laid across the grainline will pull and pucker against pieces laid along the grainline after construction. Bias is placing the pattern 45° to the grainline to exploit the give in the fabric. That's how body hugging slinky dresses are both smooth and comfortable. If the pattern is mistakenly twisted off the grainline before cutting, it will affect the way the garment sits on the body. In narrow trousers this has a feel of your leg not being screwed on properly.

[@Elizabeth-rq1vi]

@@michellebyrom6551 very true!

[@theductductgoose]

As an intermediate sewer who has no idea what "with" or "against" the grain means or when to use it, i second this!!!

Duudeee! I give u props for filming red fabric and actually make it look visible and not all washed out! It looks amazing and I guess the simple projects are always the hardest since there isn't much to distract you from mistakes, but nevertheless, it looks fantastic and the duel part of it! Thank you for that!

[@nian60]

RBG stands for Ruth Bader Ginsburg. (Info for my fellow non-Americans who might not know this).

[@karenharper2266]

A great one she was.

[@aussieauntynette6892]

Thank you for clarifying this, from someone who didn't know from Australia

[@elineeugenie5224]

Thanks!

[@cassandraallard4972]

As a Canadian, my condolences you all lost a wonderful woman

[@slytheringingerwitch]

Thank you, I am a Brit who didn't know.

[@lesaschmidt7668]

The Griffy snores at the end were the perfect touch🥰 I love that you show how you struggle with shit like all of us. Thank you and keep rocking the awesomeness!!

[@chixaninny]

I love how real you are Abby! So refreshing to see that even experts can struggle. :)

[@meamela9820]

It feels really good to hand stitch in red wool as I am watching this. (Making a waistcoat out of scrap fabric, currently 29 pieces, at least three left. Taking the piecing is period a little too far, prehaps. But it looks nice.) Hand stitching takes a lot of time, but when I don't have a deadine it feels calming to hand stitch. Kirtles are fascinating garments. It's something with the silouette that I really like. I actually made a historybound dress last month in a medieval style, but with slightly shorter hem and with pockets. Best dress ever. Also you are giving me big Medieval Week in Visby-vibes in the reveal. I miss being surrounded by people in medieval clothes, so this makes me happy to see.

[@DoctorWhoFanatic09]

As a sewing noob: thank you for explaining how tracing wheels work! I've heard them mentioned in other videos but no one ever explains how you're meant to use them. Great video, and beautiful job on the kirtle!

[@KacielNolwen]

The moment of rage and desperation when you realised you'd done something wrong is so relatable! So glad you powered through the result is totally worth it! It looks fantastic!

[@ShantiTrish]

Thankyou, loved your hand made dress. Well done for all the hours of hand sewing. In my teenage years, we used to hand sew our dresses, before my gran, gave me a sewing machine as a Christmas present. One amusing memory, my friend borrowed some bridesmaid dresses, for her wedding. They were huge circular dress design. Also very lovely light fine material. On the morning of her wedding, upon delivery, they were to long, the skirts, reached the ankles, of all her bridesmaids. Her elder sister, refused to wear her dress and the other bridesmaids were in tears. SO 4 hours before service, l rushed home, cut off 12 inches and sewed the hems. ( had to place tissue paper, underneath fine material, to prevent hem pleating. Then tear off tissue, before ironing, ready to wear. )Being circular, a lot of sewing. YES 10 minutes before leaving for church service, 8 bridesmaids, hurriedly donned their new dresses. The skirt hems, reached the knees. The children looked lovely, the teenagers were relieved and the photography showed them all to best advantage. Dress making helps you realise many themes. Bodies come in different sizes. Material can be tricky, depending on warp. Congratulations, after much sewing, button holes can be tricky, depending on material, you got to wear your lovely dress. Best wishes in your future dress making.

[@lisahodges8299]

"I have to" is said many times, " I want to because I want a more professional finish" is more appropriate for you. Accept that you are pleased with a good finish. Birdy

[@felicityslaughter5656]

I loved the contrast of seeing you in a medieval kirtle whilst running like a posh Victorian lady 😂😂😂 24:37

[@TheGPFilmMaker]

As someone who both wears maxi dresses 100% of the time anyways and has a HORRIBLE time finding bras that fit I feel like maybe kirtles are the answer to literally all of my wardrobe questions.

[@teresacarle294]

Find the medieval kirtle to be a feminine & quite womanly form of the pinafore (or fully enclosed jumper type garment). 💖Personally, I love pinafores. Unfortunately, I feel the majority of those styles will often read as significantly youthful & girlish. Historic or not, no fully grown adult wishes to feel like a 12-yr old. 🔫Yes, surprisingly the "girls" look fully locked & loaded... uh, I mean supported here in this historic garb without the need for a bra that either cuts into your shoulder or around your ribcage. 😅Found modern corsets to help emphasize the contours of the waist while lifting breasts, but don't necessarily find they secure them comfortably. Plus, corsets in general are a constrictive layer that seems far too uncomfortable in an already unbearably hot climate🌡. 🎀As someone who prefers drawstring waists to cinch skirts & pants in to fit my smaller waist dimensions, I would skip "period" details on the kirtle. My waist drawstrings take a lot of abuse. 🤔 I imagine the support required around my breasts would also need to be extra tough. If I attempted a kirtle, I would wanna use some sort of metal fasteners for button holes where the drawstring threads through (instead hand sewing out of interfacing & stitches alone featured here). For all that labor required, I'm not sure they would last long in duration. ⏳When you have an hour glass figure with large breasts, you're naturally going to need to tighten & adjust them more. There is going to be a lot of wear & tear on that whole structure too. ☘Good luck with your experimentation! Hope it bears much fruit for you!

[@carinastjohn3732]

Every time I start to get discouraged and frustrated at my dressmaking and design class at college you post something like this when you make something and you have NO IDEA how much it helps get me inspired and motivated lol Thank you so much!!! The kirtle turned out FANTASTIC!!

[@Rotten_Ralph]

Kirtle has been on my “to do/make,” list for a year... I keep thinking about it, I have wool, but not enough. I have enough linen for one, but mock up must happen. It’s a whole intimidated thing, I made combinations recently, still intimidated

[@AnnieChieDesigns]

So the tracing wheel and tracing paper method is what I was taught in school! Or as we called it, the rolly poke method of tracing :P

[@canuckled]

Red Kirtle sounds like a Medieval Marvel character

[@susanrobertson984]

She wields a sword I hope. :)

[@sarahkelly4026]

Red is definitely your color, Abby. I love learning with you. 37 years of sewing and never made buttons like that. Cried about RGB, too. We can dry our eyes on hand-sewn seams.

[@fatsparrowsewing]

Being short is such a bonus when it comes to fabric use! I'm 151cm, or 4'11'', and with modern fabrics often being 150cm wide, I can often do floor length dresses from selvage to selvage!

[@kellimbt]

This came out great, Abby! And you're right- Rachel really does do incredible things in a short time!

[@wrinklesandsprinkles]

The completion of this dress is *STUNNING*! I don’t know how you kept going with this project. I can’t be bothered for the few minutes it takes to sew on missing button!😏

[@feymaker]

You are not alone in lots or ripping out and resewing. I've put the gores in wrong on several occasions and finally started chalking my waist to make sure I had them in the right place. Oh and i was 49 years old today to learn about the wheel and have been sewing for over 40 years with seamstresses teaching me. Im so glad I found your channel!!!

[@nikkia9506]

What? What was that magic? I've never seen anyone do that with a needle and thread before, and I used to be and embroidery lover. *wrap wrap wrap round the needle* *roll down the thread* *knot* Magic!

[@fredericapanon207]

My grandmother taught me that technique when I was a little girl.

[@rebeccagharis-gallo8155]

I learned this years ago when I learned quilting. It's very quick and effective.

[@felicitygee381]

It is called a tailors knot? I was taught it in quilting class.

[@LoreMIpsum-vs6dx]

Just finished the video. As someone who knows absolutely nothing about sewing, that was utterly mind-boggling. The detail and skillz involved. Holy Cow. Lore🍃🌿🌱

[@KG-cw9le]

My friend asked me what I was doing while I was watching this, so I sent her a video snip of Abby laughing at the end in her kirtle, no other context. I learned a lot about hand sewing and drafting. Thank you!!

[@nancybridegam6903]

Sending you some love and respect. I am 60something, was raised by a dressmaker, and earn my living as such. We all are learning and " being reminded" of the things that we already know/knew under normal circumstances. I also was in mourning when THE passed, and it really threw me. We adjust, adapt and carry on. 💖💗💕

[@jennifertankersley3838]

Having done a fair amount of construction of my Renaissance faires garments when I worked: the improperly placed fabrics, eyelets, stitches, and seams happens to everybody. We all go through it. Just wanted to let you know you're not alone. 🙂 Great job

[@Littlebeth5657]

I've now got my hands on Janet Arnold's patterns of fashion 1&3 so will be starting my costuming journey soon! So excited for this kirtle xx

[@nicoledeloncrais5940]

Congrates girl!!!

[@CrystalFier]

Anyone else know that "tracing wheel" as a Whartenburg pinwheel, and use it for something VERY different? 😂

[@burtonurquhart3141]

Maybe Abby is into some kink too?

[@deborahgraham4336]

I know it as a Whartenburg Wheel as well - 😉🤫

[@This1sS0Stup1d]

Seeing that even super experienced sewists get frustrated and make mistakes makes my “oh no, I ran out of bobbin mid-seam” “why can I never see a straight line” ass feel better. What an incredible project! It looks fantastic!

[@melaniegonzalezart8506]

I enjoy kirtles and wool so much! Thank you for sharing, no matter how long it takes. In the future, I would enjoy seeing how you cut and sew in the interfacing and lining. Personally I really like clean and thought out interiors of the garments. The silk taffeta and linen in the bodice is beautiful to see. I imagine it feels nice wearing it.

[@october1310]

Me seeing the snow: "Doesn't she live in the desert?!" Even I didn't get snow yet and i live in friggin Germany

[@rd6203]

Yes, she does. Some deserts get snow, some don't... in fact, I believe that Antartica is considered desert, but don't take that as fact. Also, global warming.

[@janinawaz4596]

All deserts get cold, at least at night (some stay cold). They also get some precipitation. Up to 20 cm (8 inches) of water/year and it's still a desert. Your surprise is not uncommon, however.

[@melissacornelius7885]

It looks like a lot too because desert snow is very dry and fluffy. Something about the relative humidity being a lot lower closer to the surface causes the flakes to form differently so more air gets trapped in it.

[@maysahagel2624]

With it elevation I think its considered high desert

[@sanityisrelative]

@@rd6203 tundra is technically desert as well.

[@Noodle21A]

Love love love. I did a study on eyelet spacing for Foundations Reveals and historically they were sooooo hell-a wonky. Yours are beautiful.

[@jenninstitches]

You look so amazing in red. This was fascinating and I will be referencing these moments of frustration when I go to make mine for next summer.

[@emilybeaudette9917]

I spend a lot of time sewing, but it seems like I rarely finish any projects 😅 I’m glad to know that I’m not the only one who takes a long time on sewing endeavors. I also tried to make a medieval kirtle and it did not go well 😞 but I am determined to try again someday!

[@jennifercourtemanche9793]

Honestly when you were commenting about RGB's death I still started to tear up. Virtual hugs for those tough patches (you can save them for the next project since this one is done).

[@nicoledeloncrais5940]

Abby you really are a rock star!!! I love that you are spectacularly frank, and real. NO PRETENSE, just total generous no holes barred .... The world needs more wonderful woman like you. Thank you for the gift that you are, and the gift of your time and kind council. For the Christmas season this really is a beautiful GIFT!!!

[@reneestarling9525]

I don't know often it's said, but I REALLY appreciate it when folks include the missteps as well as the successes. It makes me feel better about setting in my sleeves backward for the 4th time in the same project. This came out wonderfully!

[@kellybrown685]

I am just a guy. I have never sewn anything in my life, yet I was mesmerized by your video. You are such a wonderful host. I LOVED your video. Stay safe. We need positive people - especially now.

[@malia.amorosa]

I could not live without tracing paper 😂 all the stitching you have to do otherwise would have probably already destroyed the last little bit of patience I own ahahaha Glad you found out! 💖

[@ThisIsReMarkable]

I can relate. I'm an IT guy and sometimes I move my keyboard, lay my head on my desk and wimple.

[@maryroyal5138]

Oh great, now I have added a kirtle to my “ NEED to sew” list. Your is beautiful, I can only hope that I can do as well.

[@DaisyViktoria]

Yesss medieval kirtles are the best!!! You have joined the most wonderful era of all! I haven't made a new one since my allegorical eyes dress last year, and I have my next in planning for very soon. I'm so excited!!! I mean, "sew" excited!

[@majoredinenglish8228]

I really like the black wool hem. It is a wonderfully subtle contrast in colors. That reveal was great.

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Thank you for the shout out Abby! ❤️

[@Kate-the-Curst]

I spent most of my 20s making 14thC sorquenies, and wrote my honours thesis on 14thC dress, so I was expecting to be super frustrated by this video (especially since I recently had to leave my branch of the SCA) :P BUT as soon as any random point popped into my head, you addressed it before the thought was even fully formed, so I feel like my broken medieval heart is safe in your hands

[@tracyborland5471]

I am literally sitting at my sewing machine working on a project while watching this (vinyl seating for my bus.) And when you said "this is frustrating" I FELT THAT IN MY SOUL. You are an inspiration amiga I wanna be as cool of a sewist as thou someday!!

[@tracyborland5471]

Also oh my gosh that is a tracing wheel!?!? Please send help. 😂

[@janicemurphy4373]

ABBY, IT HAS BEEN SOOOOOO LONG SINCE I’VE HAVE ACTUALLY SEWN, I THINK YOU ARE DOING SO VERY VERY WELL!!!!!!! I APPRECIATE YOU AND YOUR CHANNEL, YOU WORK SO HARD AND DO EXCELLENT WORK, YOU ARE SO PATIENT AND DETERMINED AND SO TALENTED TO GET THINGS DONE!!!!!!!!! YOU WOULD MAKE A WONDERFUL COSTUME MAKER FOR ANOTHER DRAMA MOVIE AND BE ONE OF THE ACTORS IN A COMICAL STORY, DRAMA SUSPENSE, YOU ARE SO FUNNY!!!!!!!!!

[@ShaynaDomina]

That thread on Abby's face just sort of summed up her whole mood there!

[@michelleraven1832]

I do embroidery but I love watching any sewing videos to learn new tips. But you did an awesome job. The red kirtle looks beautiful on you. 😁

[@horror8083]

The tracing wheel bit was adorable 10/10

[@MelWatchesYT]

Beautiful. I have to say, when I was a kid, I watched the Disney cartoon version of Robin Hood. With Maid Marion being a fox. She wore something very similar and I thought she was beautiful. I loved that dress/style for years and years after. It was the start of my love for period clothes. Fast forward 30 years and I'm watching you create my absolute dream outfit. I'm living through you. Thank you Abby! Side note, my 12 year old daughter's name is Abigail and yeah. Love the name. I'm kind of partial to it.