It Was Waiting For Me When I Got Home

[@IraNeff]

"it's like a Japanese apartment " I absolutely love it

[@fishy9191]

i laughed awful hard when he said that

[@iratodd8867]

Ira Neff hi ira

[@IraNeff]

ira todd unusual to find another one isn't it

[@diamonman2000]

I was born and raised on a farm, I have used farm equipment all my life. the box is very handy and you can put a lot of weight in it however done fill it with cement as it will not be as handy then. just put the tools in the box when you need then and remove them when you don't. by filling it with cement you limit the many uses that a box like that has. Thanks for the videos you make, I find them fun to watch and I ( like you ) find I learn from watch you. Again thank you for the content you provide. Jim.

[@eclark53520]

Concrete seems too permanent to me. I would mock up the PVC tool storage rack, and then fill in around it will sand. Then if something changes down the road you can tip it over, dump it out, and start over.

[@SUPERDAVE4EVER89]

agreed

[@northeastcamper7065]

agreed. maybe use sandbags so you can reconfigure if you want...not as heavy but I say no concrete

[@kytacomaguy]

Agree sand

[@MrJmak642]

I'd spray it inside with bed liner and fill it with sand or crushed rock and sand, that way you can get it out of there without a 90lb hammer.

[@OwainMeadmaker]

like this idea.

[@BulletproofPastor]

The "other" items are for moving round bales. The sharp poles are the spears that let you stab and lift a bale so you can move it where you need it. Really handy around the farm when you have livestock. Years ago, I built a 'ballast box' out of a 55 gal barrel. I ran a smooth bar through the barrel and added a top link then filled it with scrap steel pieces and concrete. It worked great to stop my rear wheels from paddle-wheeling. I called it a BHT (Big Heavy Thing). Glad you're back.

[@pgrogan72]

It seems like sand might be safer (and less permanent) to test what you like for a while. Down the line you may want a second ballast box, depending on the cost, that could be filled to the top with the concrete for the real demanding tasks.That's such a beautiful tractor, congrats!

[@pgrogan72]

Also with sand or concrete you can add lead scrap or anything real heavy at the bottom before setting your pvc holders, chainsaw scabbard, etc.

[@yrok86]

From a guy who does concrete construction for a living.. If you are going with concrete, I would suggest that you have some way of removing it from the bin. Line the bin with plastic sheeting, coat with form oil ( will help with extraction after concrete is set). A few t-handle eye bolts inset for removal. As for the PVC, it's going to want to float around if not held down during the pouring process. Once you have sizes and spacing figured, make a two templates (one for top, one for bottom). Cut plywood peices slightly under the diameter of your PVC. Screw peices onto a board in the spacing configuration. Place one board inside on bottom and spray with oil, put pipes over peices, place other board on top of pipes. Ratchet straps over top board and around bin to hold​ in place. Fill with concrete. Trim pipes and remove boards after removal of concrete.

[@jacobmcdonald7107]

make a cast of concrete put a loop in it with some chain so you can take it in and out when needed

[@2savetime]

exactly what I was going to suggest. Personally, since this is going to be so experimental I'd build a frame a little bit smaller than the box to pour with concrete and then drive wooden spacers in around the edges. Concrete is some heavy stuff and I'd like the confidence in having 1/2" all the way around the edges of wiggle room. Do you think there would be any advantage to putting a loop in with chain instead of making a loop out of rebar to sink into the concrete? I guess the chain could lie flat when not in use, but it also could jingle around and make noise. The rebar wouldn't be able to be moved out of the way but being static would be easy to grab onto when you wanted to move it.

[@jacobmcdonald7107]

2savetime that's what I was meaning use like rebar to pick up. chain for the connection between cast and front end of the loader

[@thebad300]

@fortwith that what i was going to say

[@JoeMalovich]

Yes and no, this will only ever be used as ballast so there's no point in making it removable. A rebar loop to transport the ballast box when the backhoe is taking up the back would be a good idea. I hope he doesn't forget water drainage of any tool/storage tubes

[@pthutch]

Exactly what I was thinking. No sense in completely changing the tool and rendering it useless. Removable ballast i think is the way to go.

[@tonyburndred9828]

Hi Cody, why don't you put four five gallon drums in, three with water, one with diesel, water in case you have a fire, and an extra drum of fuel for the tractor if required, remember what ever weight you put in the skip will be many times heavier due to the counter lever from the front axle, just a thought, love the videos keep them coming.

[@tomekc1113]

I cringed when I saw him grab that poor bin

[@brianermelin5658]

Cody you could put holsters on the sides of the ballast box to slip your tools into that way it frees up the ballast box for the weight you need to counter the logs. PVC pipe works good for toolholders you could attach several short lengths of PVC to the outside. Keep up the great work already I really enjoy it

[@hewcharles]

Use gravel, rock, sand, etc.. Concrete will be too permanent. I enjoy your videos! Thanks!

[@osomxl]

Hey Cody. I would build a hinged top cover similar to a barbecue grill to increase storage capacity and I would simply use PVC pipes on the exterior of the box around the perimeter to place implements similar to the way gardeners mount PVC pipes to carry their shovels and rakes. I think you will find that enclosed PVC pipes will quickly fill with debris and any water will become foul smelling and muck up your handles. I would build a rack using shallow unistrut top and bottom and attaching 4" PVC using strut straps and you could glue on 4" PVC caps or 4" PVC clean outs with holes drilled in the to the bottom to allow for drainage. Make sure to leave enough room so your rear glass can open.

[@johanneshalvorsen275]

You are a resourceful guy, so here is my suggestion: Keep the bucket as it is, use it for tool transport, bath tub or whatever you need. BUILD a counter weight instead. I've seen lots of farm tractors chugging along with a compact concrete block on the back. You should have no trouble building some kind of mould/scaffold in wood, or even find some big cheap plastic drum, and fill it with concrete. Use rebars for added strength, and add some steel rods/eyes in the right places to attach to your tractor. You get a leaner counter weight and a nice transport bucket to keep. We get a cool new series of vids. :)

[@robertaltic4161]

Use gravel, heavy and could re-arrange the PCV pipes for tool storage as needed. Hole in bottom for drainage and a swing top are good ideas. Might have a top that covers a storage box on the top level allowing space for the PVC held tools at the very back. That is a beautiful tractor, you are so fortunate to have Yanmar working with you.

[@DIYMechanic1]

Some Phillistine scratched your brand new ballast box all up with a log grapple....

[@ringerson4x4]

HA!

[@Bluenoser613]

I know! I can't believe he did that.

[@StickyBit7777]

I was screaming at the TV when he did that!

[@brucecole3102]

Wranglerstar if you're going to go in the woods and cut trees, a 3pt logging winch would be a great investment. It's much easier to do selective cutting, plus it can be used as a dozer blade and adds weight to the back of the tractor. Great videos btw!

[@OutdoorsWithTheMorgans]

Nice, all you need now is a nice side x side to run around in

[@jasonracette6143]

Cody, if you stack concrete blocks in some sort of frame within the box so the blocks do not shift, not only do you have ballast but you have a grid system to hold many of your tools.

[@CSwearingen09]

"it's like a Japanese apartment" 😂

[@trichi77]

I had poured concrete into 250 & 500 lb casts with a with a piece of rebar spanning the length of the pour, but with a loop bent in it that popped out the center to hook on to with a chain and lift out with my bucket. I could then add and subtract as I needed, or just wanted. I fabricated an insert that sat down into the well and covered the concrete casts so I could carry tools around with me (gave me a cleaner place to put stuff). I also welded 4 brackets on each outside (just a loop on the top and a piece of 2.5 inch diameter pipe that was about 5 inches in length on the bottom so the handles wouldn't bounce out), that held my shovels, rakes, etc... with handles like that. Clear as mud right? Not sure if that is what you were wanting but it did seam to work quite well for me. Food for thought. Keep up the great work WS. Cheers!

[@kosdan]

The voids for tools will fill with water. You'll have to drill drain holes

[@icondonnied]

exactly what I was thinking...

[@wantblackwolf]

He could have end caps to put on them when not in use. The pipe would have to stick out to accommodate the caps.

[@PirateDest]

He could make an over all cover and kind of make it like a chest....?

[@dh0614dh]

Remember; he is going to fill the bucket half way +, with concrete, so any water will also lay on top of the concrete until it overflows...

[@johnnnny]

He could just turn it upside down to empty the water......or store it in one of his barns so it doesn't fill up with rainwater to begin with.

[@carwynowen452]

hi cody. i live in the uk and am a farmer, we fill oil drums with concrete here and attach them to the 3 point linkage. works great. one thing i would mention is if you form the concrete around a bucket, you could then put another bucket inside it as a removable tote. you might find that build up of debris in the bottom od a 4" pipe to be annoying. having a removable bucket would be good to clean that. thanks for the videos c

[@jasonmiller1117]

Cody please don't concrete it!!! Dirt or sand will do just fine. Fill it up and make a mount for an actual tool box kinda like a truck tool box but you can get a rectangle one like the ones that sit flush with the bed rails. That will keep your tools dry and if you want to adjust the weight later you can. Concrete is to permanent and leaves you no room to change your mind. We use the system I'm talking about above and it works great. Keeps your tools dry if you leave them in it overnight, and you can lock it. Trust me this is from years of farm tractor know how.

[@guesswho8863]

As a retired tractor dealer, we made hundreds of these. Filled with concrete and scrap iron. If you have a factory near by that punches out slugs, if you can buy them for scrap. At first I kind of liked the idea of PVC pipe for tools, however you may find you need more weight then 1/2 or2/3 of a box. Inside the box, you'll need to plan pretty good and anchor the pipe somehow and drill weep holes in the bottom of the weight box so the holes don't fill up with snow and rain water. inside the box, once you done you're done. Disadvantage to having tools mount in the box is that they maybe subject to damage if you're not careful backing. It maybe simpler to fab something on the sides of the weight box. You could weld short lengths of muffler pipe at the top and a length at the bottom with a plate on the bottom leaving a drain. For the chain saw couple pieces of angle iron forming a slot, maybe even with plastic or wood lined to protect the teeth better. On one side, make a shelf for the gas can and add eyes to strap it down. Consider a weather proof tool box mounted on top of the weight box.

[@patriotpost5261]

Put sand in the box instead of cement. You can always dump the sand but there is no reversing it if you use cement.

[@jameswells8309]

I have a solid box full of sand, I put racks on the side for weed eater and shovels, on the other side I welded a chain saw slot out rectangle tubing to the side. On the very back i welded a smaller tool box for chain, gas, and oil. I also have a trailer receiver hitch towards the bottom to move and pull my trailer. Pretty handy

[@SundayFoggyNotions]

2:03 "It's like a Japanese apartment right here! Look how big that is!" LOL!! I literally laughed so hard, I almost spilled my beer!

[@thomaswaite2114]

What a great rig.Yanmar is first class in design and execution. There gen sets and marine engines are as good as they get. On the pvc tubes it's a great idea, but thinking a end cap in the bottom and drains tubes thru them and the bottom of the steel box would be a nice addition. the ultimate mobile took box. Well done!

[@advandervelden1588]

ALARM ALARM Poured the concrete first in a wooden mold. dont forget a hook. so you can lift the blok of concreed in and out of the container. Than you have the option to use an empty container.

[@travisfeltwater5664]

Yup

[@Shawn-rq4py]

Since im disabled I bought my tractor and made it to where it's very easy to use. I have acreage that must be kept and I don't have a choice to neglect it. So I made it as easy as possible to operate the tractor. I got the quick hitch so once I get on my tractor I don't have to get off again to hook up implements. Just back up to it, latch on and use. Then I also got a hydraulic top link so whatever implement I'm using I don't have to get off and adjust the top link and do a trial and error adjustment. For example using the box blade. I can smooth my long driveway and tilt the blade so it will collect more in some spots and little in others. From my seat I can back up to an implement, latch on, adjust the top link and use it as effectively as possible I store all my implements indoors and I have them in close quarters. I can move them around so easy. I can move 5 implements in and out or arrange them in about 5 minutes and never get off the tractor until I'm done. Since you have the cab the quick hitch and hydraulic top link would make using yours so much easier and faster. Just a suggestion

[@northernredneck7674]

2500 pounds is 1 1/4 tons, not 2 1/2

[@sonnyboycustom2666]

No to the concrete. Well explained by many other comments, so I don't need to repeat it all again. Ok - so here's the deal (from a Minnesotan that lives closer to Fargo than Sheboigan)....I'd use sand/gravel, if that will give you the weight you're looking for. Cheap and easy. That's what Dad used in a 55 gallon steel drum in the back of his tractor. After a while, weeds started growing in the sand, so Mom planted flowers in it instead. If you will need more weight, steel is denser than sand. Go to your local scrap yard and find some pieces of used 1-1/2 to 2" solid bar, cut it to length, and fill it in around your pipes for holding the tools.

[@scottz1313]

i think sand with drain holes would be better....also maybe weld a mount for your metal toolbox...the one you have at the mill

[@LeftOne23]

scottz1313 a mount for the job box on the ballast box, that's a great idea!

[@poorcousinsdiy5672]

it looked like there were 2 loops on the back of the box where you might pick it up with forks. Those would be a good mounting point for a custom tool box, then you could keep the ballast box as-is so you can use it to collect rocks out of the field or whatever, just thinking maximum flexibility

[@greghomestead6720]

Brian Curwick great idea!!!!!

[@consaka1]

I'd use sand too. More versatile and not that much of a weight difference.

[@JonahBH]

Also sand would be less permanent in case you decide down the road to add more slots for tools. Versatility

[@michaelarvold31]

Don't mix the concrete yet. Use playsand until you refine your design and work out drainage issues​.

[@maranders1]

Hi Cody. Are you rear tires fluid filled? If not that would make a huge difference. Then you could design your box however you want.

[@richardvandyke9578]

Fluid filled tires have fallen out of favor with the advent of 4 wheel drive. Fluid fill was more for traction than ballast, but it is very hard on the rims and if the mix isn't right it can freeze up in the cold weather that Cody experiences. Most modern farm tractors add cast iron weights as needed. Three point hitch ballast is quite common for tractors with front end loaders.

[@maranders1]

Richard Van Dyke 4 wheel drive tractors have been around for decades. But to say fluid filling tire have fallen out of favor is not accurate or at least here in the east. It is inexpensive and adds more weight lower to the ground than wheel weights. Corrosion is not a huge concern. We have tractors over 50 years old and never had to replace a rim.

[@richardvandyke9578]

It is not done out West anymore Mark. Tire trucks don't even carry the equipment to deal with it anymore. I recently restored my Ford 3000 that had calcium in the rear tires and had to replace the rims that were rusted out beyond repair. My Cousin farms 3000 acres and has 11 tractors and none have liquid wheel weight. The one that I drive when I help him with his harvest is over 30 years old and has over 8000 hours on it and the rims still look like new. All of his tractors are 4X4 and have cabs and dual rear tires which kind of negates the need for additional weight

[@maranders1]

Exactly my point. Cody has to deal with weight and grade. A lower center of gravity and more weight rearward is his answer. As I stated earlier we have tractors 50 plus years old same rims with no issues. we use coolant and additives with no problems. I myself wouldn't hesitate to fill my rear tires. It will make his tractor feel alot more planted when working loads and grades. But to each their own.

[@richardvandyke9578]

Mark..check out lonleyfarmer on youtube. He has a fleet of John Deere tractors similar to my cousins tractors. He farms 5000 acres in New Jersey and none of his tractors run liquid ballast. Wes changes his own tires and I have never seen him deal with liquid ballast. Cody's weight box will serve his needs well without having to deal with messy old school liquid ballast.

[@1amaker]

Cody I used a plastic 55 gallon drum filled with concrete. I didn't need to put tools in mine but I did keep the concrete down from the top so I could throw a chain or two in the top. I also did center a piece of pvc conduit run to the outside about 6" from the bottom in the rear. Then I tapered the concrete to it to drain the water off the top. I like the idea of putting the sleeve for chainsaws, but I'd cap them so the chain isn't beat up from the concrete. Also some heavy duty caster wheels on the bottom would be nice to roll it around the shop when not in use and also aid in alignment for hook up. Another idea for ballast would be to make a steel frame with a concrete slab (for weight) then you could stack tools on it.

[@jamescooper2618]

Hey Cody, Anyone mention re-torquing your lug nuts on your new tractor? You've got enough hours on the Yanmar now that it would be a good idea to go around and re-torque them all. Any new tractor can have the wheel bolts/nuts come loose after some hours of break in. They may get loose and you dont notice it due to low speeds. It will chew up your lugs and/or rims. Not good. Seen it happen too many times. I work at a tractor dealership.

[@arkansasridgerunner3110]

I have a 65 H.P. Massey-Ferguson that I used to do some logging with. I took a 55 gal. barrel, fixed it to work with 3 pt. hitch and filled it with eleven 80# sacks of Quikrete. It worked out really well when I was loading the logs with the front end loader. I like the looks of the box and making it to hold tools will be nice.

[@willwallace4029]

As a Minnesotan I can confirm. This deal and that deal. Its just common dialect, like you betcha.

[@NA-sy2fm]

you betcha

[@AJ-ri5ee]

As a Wisconsinite I can say that we say "deal" in that manner too. You know, that dealio, sweet (or alternately Swedish) deal, and maybe a few Taiwan Deals, especially if you are a football fan.

[@bobm5951]

We say it in Massachusetts too

[@redneckbunnyranch4745]

Thomas Russell haha

[@stevedesprez2108]

a Yooper is from the upper peninsula of michigan ! and everything that lives under the bridge is a troll !

[@jimsgardensandrabbitry]

Greetings, Cody. Yes those spears are for loading round hay bales. I could have used those 15 years ago. I had a manure bucket on a International 504 that I had to use to move 6x6 round bales. It worked, but what you have would have been better with that spear system. Personally, I would use sand, or dirt that you have there. drill some holes for drainage. Maybe weld pieces on the side and back for tools you are using? If you concrete it in, thats what you will have. Steel covered cement box. By using sand, you have the option to use it for other things later. Blessings.

[@lukeknezevic7267]

Holy smokes! Did you already scratch the paint with the claw?

[@JohnForce92]

Better paint over it to avoid rust especially on a brand new tool

[@KoalityofLife]

It doesn't appear to be made of very heavy gauge steel. I would reinforce it somehow just to make sure it could hold a lot of weight, seems to be ok for now but a lot of weight over time might take a tole on it.

[@KoalityofLife]

And don't forget to put some holes in the bottom so water can drain out of the PVC holes for your tools.

[@Gantzz321]

he is going to fill it with concrete he does not care, he didn't pay for it

[@Hunting4MadV]

yes i saw that too....get the primer out !!

[@randyhaugen1729]

I have stackable concrete weights. Fill the bucket with multiple lifts of concrete so you can modify the amount of weight needed for a given application. Your idea of tool holders is great. It can still be done with multiple slabs. Wish I had thought of that before I poured.

[@rep57chv]

I would just keep what ever ballast material you decide to use inside the box and make your tool holders to hang on the outside rim of the ballast box...that you you can change them up to suite the job at hand. that way no problem with draining rain accumulation out. you could use a row of pipes on one side to put shovels, rakes, and axes in...and a wood slot bracket on the other side to slip your chainsaw blade into with a quick bungee strap to keep it secure and from bouncing around. the wood won't damage your saw blade as the tractor bounces it around. sort of like you french cleat system you did in your garage that way it would remain flexible with various options if you change your mind in the future of if something doesn't work out as you envisioned it.

[@fonsbiemans4801]

hi, if you insert the pvc pipes make sure you add drainholes. we have made something simmilar at home, we add sand first and then a 5-10 cm think concrete cap. in case you whant to change it you only have a small layer of concrete to go thrue. we also added a tool holder on the outside.

[@georgedarby1398]

We use a round bale on the back as a Balace

[@NA-sy2fm]

Makes sense as to why they sent it.

[@QuestForTheOpenRoad]

George Darby13 i plan to build my own balast. my idea is to take the upright front an old forklift with the forks (hydronics seem to work) and make a balast in a pallet like stand with a pin that can lock through the fork to keep it from sliding off. bonus, i get a lift able fork lift attachment that mounts to my 3 point

[@BrettVaughnB100]

I use the backhoe and when I'm hauling logs out of the forrest I grab a log between the dipper and the boom and balance out the log on the front .. wish I had one of those grapplers for the front looks handy.. nice video!

[@ashersinz]

put a liner in if your going to fill it with concrete

[@Ronh83]

Im a farmer from Norway with a tip for you: Replace your top link with a hydraulic cylinder. And get a bucket/shovel (not sure what you call it in the us) that is as wide as the tractor. Great allround use!

[@Buchaven959]

Don't put concrete in it! It's too permanent. Sand is about 2/3 the weight by volume, but... you can take it out. Not that you're likely to empty it much, but I think having the option is worth the tradeoff for weight. Also, consider rainwater. It won't be easy to drain any water out of there if it's half full of concrete. I think I'd probably put a few small drain holes in the bottom (something that's easy to plug if you ever want to) then a small layer of 3/4 gravel and then fill it with sand, or stone dust, or pitrun, including your tubes of course, I think that's brilliant! You might also want to consider putting in, or leaving room for a small tool box. I'm just picturing dropping a screwdriver into the bucket and it finds it's way into a 3' X 3" tube. If you lose your tools down that hole, you're gonna have a bad time!

[@newandoldtech5634]

At 11:20 mainly used for plowing and such to keep the line straight. When rocks or stones force the plow sideways the furrow will not be straight and the arms will damage/gnaw on the tires.

[@deanlevang6031]

Allow rain water to drain out of the ballast box.

[@ronmack1767]

Good idea Cody. Match or closely match the backhoe weight. I like your idea on placing pvc pipes for handled tools and leaving 6 to 8 inches at the top for larger items. Glad y'all are home safe. How's Jack. Take care and God bless.

[@Atimonster]

I would mount pipes on the outside for shovels, rakes, chainsaw and then make a lid to keep your gear dry

[@toddstegall610]

Okay, so I'm sitting here in my apartment in Narita, Japan watching your video and about busted a gut upon hearing your apartment reference! Love the idea of a multipurpose box but my first thought was how do you keep your tools dry unless you create some sort of lid for your box and drain holes for the unavoidable water collection. I also like the pvc suggestion and maybe coarse gravel instead of sand for better drainage. A few inches of gravel on the bottom to keep tools above any residual water and then drop in the pvc "rack"(pvc tubes attached to a flat base approximately the size of your bucket bottom) to accommodate your various tools. Then add remaining gravel and tilt the rear of the bucket down a bit for easier tool access and to create a low point for more efficient drainage and reduce the number of drain holes required. One possible cover could be a small tarp with bungy cords and your longest handle tool in the middle creating a teepee effect. Okay, I admit the lid idea is pretty lame but hey.

[@wranglerstar]

How was the reference? mrsW :)

[@toddstegall610]

Let's just say I sometimes refer to my place as "the birdcage" : )

[@toddstegall610]

Oh btw, congrats on qualifying for the Boston Marathon. Very impressive!

[@wranglerstar]

Thank you Todd. Should be exciting to run.

[@stuntcardriver]

So if you lift the ballast box all the way up with your shovels and tools will it break the back window?

[@ArnieD17]

Go to about 14:10 where he explains why that wouldn't happen.

[@consaka1]

nah, not if he used the right points for the top link. the box should stay level as it is raised or lowered.

[@mathbc1984]

It's might sound crazy, but if water is not an issue on your farm. Water can be drain to avoid your truck to consume more fuel while you don't quarry load. You can add water for counter height for more load. The water weight 1 Kilogram (2.2 pounds) per liter. So one imperial gallon = 10 pounds. Water freeze during winter and you can use It for snow blower counter height. You can use water with separator that have holes to drain the water. The separator will avoid water to move. Same principle in truck tank trailer. You can add HSS and pipes to hold your stuff.

[@andrewmoudy8159]

just close the top some how so it don't fill up with water thru the pipe tops

[@peteanderton1473]

drill a hole in the bottom.

[@austinjordison]

That small would not be a big issue, baffles would be unnecessary. Secondly, the op was referring to water filling up the pipes, not being used as ballast.

[@MattOGormanSmith]

I'd do a beer-crate arrangement with slotted steel at the bottom. It wouldn't even need attaching so it can always be lifted out in pieces and can be as heavy gauge as you like. Steel is 3 times denser than concrete.

[@juztyn00]

Fill it with dirt and plant flowers in it, no need to over think things.

[@thljudithb1438]

I think the bucket has lots of potential for all kinds of use. Others have mentioned water being in it, etc. My thought was to build a wooden box that slides inside the bucket, with a hook in the concrete so you can left it out when you dont need it.

[@keithbryan9567]

+Wranglerstar Cody, I hope that you will take the time to read this comment in its entirety it may contain some very helpful "future" knowledge for you. Having been the Parts and Service Department Manager for my Local Kubota Tractor Dealership I was nodding my head and also at points shaking it thinking yep that's exactly right Cody or Nope but you're so close at different spots of the 3 pt. hitch portion of the video. It was like that feeling you get when you're the smart kid in class and you're helping a buddy learn something for the first time. Make sure to always check that lock nut on your top link turnbuckle, it's important. With all of the vibration of the tractor and bouncing around it will go through, if that nut is ever loose it will allow the top link to slowly spin and will eventually come completely unthreaded as it rips the last few threads out... then you have to buy a new top link... The good ones like what come from the factory are usually pretty expensive but you can find alternative ones that are substantially cheaper they just won't stand the same abuse for the same amount of time as the factory ones. Before you start using that thing out in the woods too much you will probably want to consider finding some better hitch pins (also called snap pins or ring pins). Small limbs love to snag the ring, open it up, and then it's bye bye pin which translates to bye bye implement if you don't realize it in time. Which obviously, as it crashes to the ground and starts to drag before you even have a chance to take your foot off the pedal and stop the tractor can spell $$$$ unnecessary $$$$ repairs $$$$ to either the tractor$$$$, the implement $$$$, or both $$$$$$$$. So look for some better ones at your local tractor dealership I'm sure they'll have something better. Don't get me wrong they're great when you're using them for normal circumstances to hold an implement on and you're farming but they have a tendency to go away in the woods. Many of my customers found this lesson out the hard way when as they were cutting a field with a rotary mower and the brush they were mowing became to thick and the pin was snagged and pulled from its hole For those reading that are not in the know Rotary mowers are commonly called a Bush Hog because of the brand name that made Rotary mowers popular. Please do your parts guy a favor and learn what make and model of a rotary mower you have before calling and asking for parts. And I can not stress how helpful the serial number of every implement that you have is when needing parts. So Cody, do yourself a favor, pay special heed to this next part, and write down somewhere on your owner's manual for your tractor the serial number for the Tractor, Tractor Cab (often a cab tractor like yours will have a serial number specifically for the cab), Engine, Transmission (sometimes the trans has one sometimes not), Loader, Backhoe, Each Implement that has one along with its make and model, I suggest even writing down all of your filter numbers as well. Don't forget your cabin air filter(s) number(s) and to change those regularly. They are literally the life of your HVAC and if allowed to remain clogged you're going to regret the repair bill... Once you have all of that written down keep the manual in the pouch where you found it in your tractor so that you'll always be able to find that info. While the serial tags for everything are still looking factory fresh I suggest taking a photo of everyone of them, labeling then in your phone so you know what photo goes to what, and backing them up into a cloud based file. (When making the photos for the implements dont forget to include the make and model of the implement in the photo.) That way if you ever head to the tractor dealership and forget the manual and they need the information you have it right there as long as you have your phone. Trust me the small amount of time of creating a photo on your phone the way I have described will save you soooooooo much grief I assure you that if you run into a good parts person and they ask for the serial number they have already narrowed it down as closely as they can without it. So keep those serial numbers on hand and at the ready. Not everything requires them but have it available just in case. They'll let you know if it's needed or not. Sorry if you've already addressed this but it is super super important to collect it before something has a chance to damage the different tags... You probably know all of that from when you were a construction equipment owner and if so then please treat it as a reminder. Others reading it can treat it as new information. Also if you plan to use the tractor much in the forest you're going to want to get some skid plates made for it underbelly. Most people will have them made to fit their tractor and suit their needs. It will need to provide protection from sticks getting jammed through what I call the soft spots. It will also need to protect against them smacking things like sensors, tearing up wiring harnesses, bending control rods and linkages, tearing off or otherwise damaging hydraulic lines and hoses. Basically, you want to armor your "farm tractor" like one of the pieces of "construction equipment" you are familiar with. Farming fields rarely have large sticks and stump roots that will tear stuff up. most stuff that breaks in the farmer's field was caused from stressing it too much, fatiguing the metal, or just plain age/wear and tear. Having said all of that and having attempted to help you avoid the potential first time farm tractor owners pitfalls that I have seen bite many a person in the behind, I do have a question for you about the tractor that I haven't seen mentioned in your videos since getting the tractor. Nor did I see it mentioned here in this video. I know that you have 4wd on that tractor which is the way to go with a front loader. It was my experience that some dealerships would not fill the back tires with water unless specifically requested to do so by the customer. Which as I recall adds roughly 750 lbs. of ballast to the rear. (Don't ever let anybody water your front tires. The extra weight will put too much stress on your wheel bearings and steering components and will cause excessive wear and often damage the front end.) My dealership watered the rear tires to every 4wd tractor as they were being assembled (unless specifically asked not to). Does yours have water in the rear tires? If it was only teetering a little bit when lifting those logs and the tires only have air then filling them would probably fix the teetering all by itself. That way you won't need to hookup the ballast box often. Also as mentioned in other comments they do make wheel weights that can be bolted onto the rear wheels of most tractors. (Not all wheels are made for that...) But they can serve as a permanent fixture that doesn't need to be put on and taken off all the time. The wheel weights also free up the 3pt. hitch for the ability to use other implements as well. I know that this is more of a letter than a comment but I want you to know that I am only trying to be helpful to you and other viewers that may take the time to read this. So in summary the following list will potentially save you and others a lot of future potential headaches: 1) Get those Makes, Models, and Serials Numbers Gathered Up some place safe 2) Consider different snap pins for working in the woods usage 3) Consider Skid Plating the under belly. 4) Are your rear tires filled with water or not? Enjoyed The Video, I don't care how long it may or may not have taken you to figure out the setup of your 3pt. Hitch. Because you did it yourself without someone there to guide you, so great work there buddy! Please, keep up the great videos! P.S. You could also put pipe mounts onto the outside of your ballast box to hold tools such as shovels and axes. Also you could make yourself a removable tool box to mount on the top of the ballast box that could hold gear inside that you need when working in the woods.

[@victorpartelow6842]

This is the longest comment I’ve ever seen

[@Harley831]

Victor Partelow I couldn’t even navigate through it after paragraph 4😂

[@jaydegress4367]

My suggestion would be to make a plywood mold and fill it with concrete and have an eye bolt coming out of the top so you can load and unload the chunk of concrete. You can even make multiple ones with different weights for different applications.

[@Jmwtime]

Okay, I feel stupid here, but where is the 3D video?

[@benjohnson2645]

Jesse Warren I haven't seen it anywhere yet.

[@bobg4840]

He just posted this one, I'm sure it'll be posted soon or tomorrow sometime.

[@Jmwtime]

I'm sure, just sounded like it would come out in tandem with this one and I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something.

[@tjjohnson310]

lol thank god I wasn't the only one asking

[@-David_Knight-]

360° not 3D

[@shartne]

If you back up to a big round bail and spear it you can use it for a balist. Also hay bails make nice compost for the garden. I like to use hay for my chickens laying boxes and also it makes good compost to help keep water in the ground around my tomatoes. so round bails are useful for gardens. you can lay it down to keep it from being too muddy. put some metal weights in it and you can always dump them out if you dont want them in there any more and want to use it for something else like hauling wood or something. Boulders would be easy to remove too. Boulders are free usually if you can get some from a stream or river.

[@abmtex2007]

A quick attachment for the three point is nice to have. www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/quick-hitch-cat-2

[@consaka1]

4 PVC 4 inch pipes. One in each corner. Sandbagged in. The corners will provide natural support and easier access to the tools you are using.

[@franksperanza8982]

No concrete

[@doublebulbing]

and again we say NO CONCRETE

[@marcussteele9196]

So, sand? or bags of sand?

[@doublebulbing]

bags would be easier to put in and take out

[@tim.wilson839]

Marcus Steele some .7

[@nephimitchell]

I was thinking sand bags or sand in general.

[@johndantice2577]

You may consider welding the shovel pipe holders on the outside of the box. You could weld a smaller lockable box to the back side of the ballast box to store tools and chains.

[@TalalAlkhadra]

All the guys who said "SAND" . . . kudos SAND BAGS . . . SAND BAGS . . . SAND BAGS . . . the operative word "BAGS"

[@notsheeple2019]

The front hay fork can be used like a forklift. It is versatile. Use bags of sand in the ballast box so you can use it for other things. If you use cement, it's permanent. Around here they use sand so they can dump it to use for other things when they don't need the ballast. You can reuse the sand. Think it through before you finalize how you weight it.

[@theratsnestvideo]

maybe a water tank inside instead of concrete?

[@theratsnestvideo]

Weld tool holders to outside.

[@Binford2500]

I like that idea, but i can't think of a reason you would need removable or adjustable weight. I think concrete with pvc tubes in the front of the bucket for shovels and whatnot would be perfect. He can also get a piece of square tube or something for a chainsaw holster.

[@Harley04]

One reason could be if you need to ship it or load in the back of a pickup, something like that, take it over to a friend's place, etc.

[@Binford2500]

When would you ever need to load or ship a weight for a specific tractor, without bringing the tractor? I don't think "here borrow my weight" is a sentence often uttered by those with tractors...

[@NikolausLife]

I'd strongly recommend sand or something less permanent, so you can make adjustments as you find what does and doesn't work. Also a top or something to keep the water out/drain the water sounds smart.

[@alabamacampandhike]

Not Loving the permanent idea of concrete but if you decide to go that direction just buy a very cheap chainsaw carrying case then take the chain guard cover and use it as your form in the concrete. You may need to slide something in it while the concrete is drying so the weight of the mix doesn't collapse the width of the cover. PVC pipes for your rake handle holders- Just remember like many have already stated to drill drain holes in the bottom so they don"t hold water. Many have suggested old lifting weights but those things are too expensive unless you can find some for free . Dumbbells sell for 50 cents a pound for example.

[@Leering1]

Hang the pipes on the outside like a tool belt. Square tubes with hooks to hang it and pipes/pockets on the tubing. makes changing the configuration a little easier.

[@Tembel98]

You have the same gloves of Pure Living for Life!!

[@Lee-dz9ll]

Growing up working on farms, Liquid in tires was common and wheel and tractor weights were too. I'd hate to "waste" the cool tool box yanmar sent. Fab up a lid and make a great job box to haul gear around in.

[@matthewflavell6270]

you will need drains in the bottom of the pipes

[@davesrepaircom]

I wouldn't go permanent with concrete right away (if ever) before experimenting for a while. 'Would probably fill it partway with modified gravel first. That stuff really packs, and you can try out the upright pipes idea that way, too, and make changes to your layout before going permanent. I wouldn't let it sit out in the weather, but that holds for any tools/implements. I use a rusty old 3 point dump bucket the dealer threw in with my Bota a couple of years ago, with 2 chimney blocks ratchet-strapped into it for extra weight. It also carries 2 chainsaws slotted into a 6x6, log chains, dogs, extra fuel, log dog, another box mounted on top with the small trimming chainsaw, main fuel and oil, files, hatchet, maul, wedges, and other small tools. It's been the handiest "ballast" I've ever used, but even it isn't permanent. 'Could be unloaded and used as a bucket again in a pinch (It'd have to be a real emergency!) Maybe I'm "afraid of commitment" , or something, but I just like tools to have more than one purpose whenever possible, and hate to lock something in to just one use. Recently added a hitch ball to the back of the old blade too, so I can tow the splitter along. That free old bucket has turned out to be really, really handy in the woods, second in usefulness only to the front forks. Just my $.02 worth.Maybe it'll be useful to someone.

[@walterrivera7394]

Maybe loose rocks instead of concrete so it's not so permanent...

[@andytaz5860]

Hi Cody, fill inside with gravel and top off with a board, weld to outside tubes and box sections to hold tools then you can adjust weight by adding more gravel or taking away. best wishes Andy

[@Jamkevcr88]

Have you had one of those ring pins close on your finger yet? You don't know the true meaning of pain until you have it happen...

[@StickyBit7777]

Kev C., yes! Especially true in the Winter when fingers are cold. Cody, consider adjusting the lift pins on the box so the holes are vertical; the outer rings sometimes pop off and you definitely don't want to lose the pins.

[@merlinbasics9345]

I like the suggestions of water, fuel, and or sand in individual containers, so that you can have the flexibility depending on the needs, plus the tools (inside or outside the container). A threaded cap that would allow you to drain it could be useful too.

[@j.b.caldwell7420]

I left you a comment long ago about ballast that you must not have understood. Physics have not changed. All tractors must keep their lateral center of gravity betweem the wheels or it will roll over. This will occur far sooner than turning the tractor over end over end. How do you lower the lateral center of gravity or even better increase the moment of inertia necessary to roll the tractor over - you add mass (ballast) as far possible away from the centerline to both sides of the tractor. For decades that has meant liquid ballast in the tire and rigid mounted wheel weights. Put fluid in yur tires and get Yanmar to bolt some weights to those hole in your rear wheel centers and there is a lot better chance you will live a lot longer using a tractor on unlevel ground. A rear ballast box does absolutely nothing to prevent rolling the tractor over.lonestarweights.com/product-details/?CID=1&PID=41

[@mburke1211]

J.B. Caldwell I agree. I had Rim Guard (beet juice - natural anti-freeze, and eco friendly) put in my tires, and the loader performance was phenomenal. Configure the box for carrying stuff instead.

[@subwarpspeed]

A ballast box is far better doing what he wanted it to do - counterweight the load of the front end loader. Fluid in tires and wheel weights only give the back wheel more traction but does not offload the front axle anything. And, the tractor can roll over if the center of gravity gets outside the triangle between the rear wheels' ground contact point and the front axle's pivot point. I.e. a tractor can roll over even if center of gravity is kept between the wheels (their contact point with earth). A counter weight will move the center of gravity further back and thus give it more space to stay within the triangle when the tractor leans to either side on uneven ground.

[@flipr7]

JB is definitely running at full warp speed. And right..

[@UglukGPZ900]

No he isn't. To balance the weight on the loader you need 3-point ballast. 1000 pounds seems about right for that loader. Wheel weights doesn't do much good for fel work in comparison. I know since I use both.

[@subwarpspeed]

what is correct is that when weights give a higher moment of inertia, but how much practical usefulness it gives is for me unknown. wheel weights moves the center of gravity back a little bit but the counter weight in three point hitch of same mass affects it more. With a lot of loader work (which Cody might not do) it is preferable to offload the front axle to ease it from wear when lifting heavy things. And here does wheel weights and fluid in the tires nothing to help out.

[@pezaostu5009]

Hi Cody Before you fill it up with whatever you choose, weld/ bolt a tow hitch receiver to the back of it. Then you can still pull with it and not have to remove the whole box. Stu

[@Kristopherkok]

" Hay Hook" Good lord

[@tillerbeez6575]

Kristopherkok , lol. Guess he never heard of a spear.

[@jrwalker1048]

Cody - add a couple j-bolts to the top of the concrete slab to create attachments points for future expansion of the tool rack. You could bolt some steel uprights and jhooks or a metal toolbox with chainsaw tools might want to sleep on this one for two nights to get the best solution...thank you again for the great comment. I also suggest using the Yanmar for some agriculture work...maybe plant a field of wildflowers for Mrs W on motehrs day...If Yanmar is targeting homesteaders with this model they would appreciate the footage.

[@travismeering1493]

Sorry bud but 2500 pounds is not 2 and a half tons... Your math is off

[@raenrfm]

Travis Meering yep, doing math on camera. lol

[@JasonWierakaJDub]

He likes Metric tons.

[@raenrfm]

Jason Wier definitely a Freudian slip. Cody the metric lover!

[@garethdungspreder8353]

its still only a tone if its metric

[@marcussteele9196]

So, 1 and 1/4 tons?

[@thesayxx]

@2:00 tnx Cody, i spit coffee all over my desk :D Also i would suggest just regular old sand for the counterweight. You can still do the PVC pipes for your tool and all but it gives you a little wiggle room in a sense that you can add or remove weight as necessary. Once you pour in that concrete its a point of no return.

[@fuegofyter4952]

2,500 lbs = 2.5 tons...noodle baked:-)

[@greatnortherntroll6841]

Fuegofyter 2,500 lbs = 1.25 Ton. 2,000 lbs is 1 Ton... or did you already know that, and I misread your comment?

[@fuegofyter4952]

Yes, I was razzing Cody about misspeaking.

[@lukekelly1854]

Fuegofyter - Tonnes and tons are different

[@vicfirthify]

Fuegofyter yeah I caught that too lol

[@renoguy25]

Are you suggesting that Cody has the intelligence of a baked noodle :-) :-) ....well.....he did just come back from La La Land . quick slip of the mind I guess . Around here , we call that a " Brain Fart "

[@growingayeard1061]

I agree with others here who have said concrete seems too permanent. I think making whatever ballast you use easily removable is a good plan. Sand and water both seem like good candidates.

[@WHtB]

Hi, Before you pour concrete in the tool box/ counterweight, make sure you attach a trailer mount to it wich is connected to the structural pins, so you can attach your trailer to the toolbox/weight. Groeten uit Holland Willem

[@fredvaldez9002]

Don't add concret mix!!! Add pea gravel or sand. You can still put in the PVC pipe for tool holders. Put caps on the bottom ends. Keep your options open.

[@williamnicol4762]

Summary of the good ideas - 1) Fill with sand. 2) Weld pipes to outside of box to hold long tools. Angle away from cab. Or make something that slides over the side of the box with holes or pipes to hold the long tools (this way you don't weld directly on the box) 3) Drop in a tray or grate to hold tool box, chain saw, etc.. 4) Cut the back wall of the box down a foot or so for easy access to tools.

[@tracydavid4411]

Its refreshing to see someone discover what I take for granted every day being a farm boy with the 3 point hitch hopefully you will soon discover that's every bit important as the front end loader.

[@ctgoodman]

And the PTO. A good PTO driven wood chipper would be great for him. I'd like to see him bale hay. But with that size tractor he is probably only limited to small squares.

[@cookinginthedark6768]

Cody, As a proud Minnesotan, I am happy to say thanks for a shout out. However, Shaboigen is in Wisconsin... Loved the video though, lol'd at "bug as a Japanese apartment" the ballast idea of yours I really liked. Thanks for sharing as always, Brad

[@RyeHillBaptistChurch]

(William Brown) I second the concrete blocks idea and pvc pipe in the voids. and make sure the ballast box has drain holes in the bottom to prevent rust from forming in the bottom. Much cheaper than sand or concrete and removable, if needed.

[@AndersonFarms]

that 3 point hitch will come in handy. Snowblowers, Rear Blades, Mowers, Ballast Boxes, Wood Chipers, Tillers, Plows. and more can all be used on the hitch. And to make things easier you can get a quick hitch for the 3 point hitch to really help hook up implements

[@stevenseagalcanavi]

to avoid drilling holes for your current plan to work (water drainage). you could as some have suggested full it to a point with sand. but then you could build a small structure that clamps onto the bucket to hold all the tools, with the long handles tools being stored on the outside, of the bucket. this structure doesn't need to be very big, it can just cover the footprint of the bucket keeping the sand dry, and also providing somewhere to clamp or lock toolboxes to. and have them removable. this way i feel you have the most options for the future encase you change your mind on anything.

[@ludwigsmedberg]

I see a lot of people have already pointed it out but rain will be a problem so make sure to drill some holes or such in the bottom and paint them with some good primer to delay the rust a bit...

[@brianoz2brn976]

Before using Concrete, I would suggest you try with sand or gravel first - just so that you have a chance to tweak and modify to suit your needs best. Keep up the good work :)