"Its Running HOT Loaded " 😬Is the ENGINE TOO SMALL? - OLD Style Hauler BUILD - COE Ramp Truck EP-31

[@kramer26]

Hi Karl, just catching up on your videos, this is my favourite build of yours! You needed to have a cab up counter for this episode, too! Suggestions for the cooling system if you haven't tried or thought of them before... Yes, use the shroud, it will help the fan pull air through the rad, but it needs to be fully sealed on the back side. You could vee mount the rad if you have space, with a fully ducted inlet. A smaller water pump pulley might help, or an auxiliary radiator. An external engine oil cooler might also help... You could also stamp a bunch of 50s Gene Winfield style louvres in that front deck panel you removed earlier on. It would look cool and help with airflow! And those side boxes, they would be cool with an up and over door mech. It would be more trick, they will be out the way and protected when open, tucked up inside the cabinet, and not folded down right in front of the opening. Just a thought... 👍🏼 Great build, hope you get the issues sorted. Guess I'll find out in the next episodes lol 😂

[@minnesotatomcat]

If you’re coming through Minnesota stop in! I make custom duct work for a living, we can whip up a custom air ducting system to force air through the radiator!

[@mustache49]

locate someone in your area that builds round-d-round cars ( dirt or asphalt car), and you can get ideas for fresh air ducting to a radiator. great videos.

[@codysmithmotorsports736]

I've done a lot of cooling mods. The air wants to go everywhere except through the radiator (because its a restriction). With how far back you rad is I would recommend a fully ducted inlet...or as much as you can anyway that either stays on the chassis or flips with the cab. You could try a big air dam under the radiator to catch air under the truck and push it up in front of the radiator. System wise a swirl pot/expansion tank is good to have. Higher pressure cap will increase efficiency of the system too. Once the air gets through the radiator it needs somewhere to go too. Maybe louver the front section of the deck plate

[@dirtydave4351]

Any air that comes through the grille needs to go through the radiator. Like through an airtight duct, no other way out. Been there, fought it long and hard.

[@phatbastard2026]

@@dirtydave4351 actually there is DippY Dave Put the damn radiator behind the GRILL not ROCKET SCIENCE internet Warrior! Ass Clowns always have an OPPINION

[@OWFab]

The greatest problem I see is the Cab will change how the air flows back there. Think of sitting in the back of a ute (pick-up), at different speeds, the spot where the air blows around changes. One minute the wind is blow dirt in your face, then no wind, the blows the other way. Isolate the radiator from all that with a big shroud, and the air will always follow the Fan's direction. Does that make any sense?

[@JimmyMakingitwork]

Inside tip: Bleeding the master cylinder can also be done by capping the ports and pumping the piston until it becomes very hard or impossible to compress. At this point the air is bled. Final bleeding on the vehicle regardless of the method. I am using a Delta PAG brushless fan on my 62 C10, flows about 4000 CFM. Soft start technology. Also had them make a custom shroud. Once the bugs are sorted the Ramp truck will be sick.

[@lesgaal4017]

Mate there is alot of reasons but check for radiator hoses sucking in , they usually have a spring inside them to stop that. The cab over design is like a box pushing air away from itself being lower to the ground makes it worse for airports travel through the grill opening.

[@blainekoch5018]

I’ve got a couple of ol’ truck projects and this build has definitely given some inspiration on building the beds. Thanks for the content. Keep building brother.

[@murdoc6501]

The positive attitudes are infectious! As you said, "That's car building!" The truck is epic! The build has been epic! Go Japhands and Halfass, keep moving forward!

[@garrykellogg3215]

"Air-Flow Issues" require Air-Control. Like a box from the grille to the radiator, or one with a scoop low to the ground (Cooler Air) so the air coming into the radiator is guided. 41:48 I SEE THE PROBLEM WITH YOUR COOLING! Put a gap between the Transmission cooler (or relocate it) and the Radiator. The heat of the Transmission cooler is only adding to the heat of the engine's radiator. Compiling your heating issues. That 30% of area that should be getting air, is only getting heat. You need to relocate that radiator cooler into the cool air intake and watch the magic.

[@francisrampen9099]

I'd check the rad hose on the suction side if you haven't already- I bought a couple of Renault Lecars for virtually nothing because they had an overheating problem that the dealership couldn't figure out. They replaced water pumps, fans,rads, thermostats but didn't bother with the lower rad hose. The hose would collapse when you Revd the engine. A spring in the hose solved the problem and they were dead reliable thereafter. Love this project.

[@tetedur377]

Found that out the hard way. Customer brings in a LeCar for a no-start. It came in on a hook, BTW. After many trials and tribulations, including a defective starter and a slow boat to and from France, I finally fixed it. For anyone who has never worked on one of those things, to take the starter off involves removing the exhaust manifold, the driver's side motor mount, and I can't remember what all. It was back in the '80s, after all. I had to do it twice, and I never ever put another starter on a vehicle without bench-testing it first. Go to start it up, everything checks out, except there's no coolant in the thing. Add coolant and water, engine starts pissing it out like a cow peeing on a flat rock. I can't remember what was actually wrong with the little beast, but although it ran well, the repairs to the cooling system looked to be expensive, and were a direct result of the overheating problem. Water pump, expansion plugs, I don't remember. I do remember that somebody had put a spring-type lower radiator hose on it. I was surprised because I didn't think foreign cars came with those type of rad hoses. It was probably too late by that point. Anyway, the customer, being a customer, accused us of KNOWING that it was going to need further repairs, and fixing the starter anyway. The shop owner made him pay for the repair, said sorry about your luck, and the guy towed it out of there.

[@francisrampen9099]

@@tetedur377 I never had to replace a Lecar starter but in general it was a really easy car to work on - one of the few cars that Renault made that was actually really good. if you compare it to my Mercedes ML it isn't even close - you have to take most of the seats out to replace the parking brake cable!

[@terryeustice5399]

Karl I watched Brent’s video and saw the ramp truck was not able to make the trip. Sorry that happened. Getting the bugs out in that short of time was pushing you. Thank you for your video! It looks great. A Fancy build for sure. 💯👊👍💕

[@JeffLee-in5ev]

Hello Kyle your overheating problem, i have struck before with vehicles you need to make a full encased cowling in front of the radiator under the cab and sealing up against the radiator.So the air cannot create localised hot spots and prevent cool air flowing over the radiator core.This helps with the fan drawing air in and forced air from the vehice as its moving. Cheers Jeff

[@djrisberg]

The open cargo boxes in front (where you crawled in to adjust the shifter linkage) is part of why no air is flowing through your radiator...the air is moving left & right around the radiator...and the hot air that runs through the radiator is recirculating through the cargo box and recycling through the radiator. You've done one side of your inlet radiator shroud...you need both sides and the top to funnel the air into and through your radiator - and then block off open "holes" to keep from trapping hot air - channel it out.

[@monadking2761]

In the past, you would also slow the water speed down, going through the radiator. In the 70s, they would use a restricted thermostat. The reason was that the water mix was going through the radiator to fast and not cooling down. It's just something to think about. If you have an IR gun, check the radiator inlet and compareto to the outlet side. Like a boat, put some air scuppers on the side like Shelby to help ram the air into the radiator. Good luck!

[@RJ-qx6zg]

I used a set of chevy volt fans on my LS . They are brushless fans . Works great in 100 degree humid weather. Love your channel good luck

[@briankinnear7461]

Great video. Always little things to modify or add to a build like this. Look forward to the next one even though I know what happens from Brent's video. But interested to see what your take/view looks like. Be safe and stay well.

[@freeidaho-videos]

You are sooooooo right. You have to expect things will not go perfectly. How you respond is the key. The situation gets worse if one has a bad attitude, and gets better with a good attitude. You clearly have a great attitude! Safe Trip!

[@bkgaragerestorations]

If you cut out some holes in the shroud and put rear opening flaps over them it will work way better. The flaps will shut at low speed and when stopped in traffic so the fan pulls maximum air through the rad. At highway speed they will open up to let the air through. I had the same issue with electric fans and a tight shroud. It ran ice cold at slow speed and too warm on the highway.

[@_bigpokie_]

Keep doing what your doing and throw a few of these in the mix now and again. It’s good to see the builds and why someone built it their way.

[@GregWellwood]

I have the exact same Amazon cooling fan on my turbocharged '61 Apache pickup. It's inadequate for me - fine on the highway, but overheats in traffic. I have a better one coming from Summit next week, hoping for better flow.

[@alleyoop1234]

For everyone that has never been to BC, I will add some perspective to what kind of hills we have here. Just east of me is the Kootenay Pass, which is over 5700ft at the summit road level, with 12KM(7 Miles) of 8% grade on the west side of the hill !

[@tetedur377]

That's pretty steep alright.

[@wesgyver]

Truck looks great! Too bad it didn't make it for the trip to Manitoba! I was hoping to see it out here. Once it is sorted out, I look forward to you coming out to Manitoba with it for a metal shaping course! I'll sign up! Keep up the great work!

[@zachclothier330]

Not to sure on an LS but you can have cavitation in the cooling system. Setting still the pump runs slower. Driving it spins so fast that it can’t flow smoothly causing cavitation. If you change the water pump cut every other fin off the pump. Or look for an anti cavitation pump. This will slow the flow down allowing the coolant to circulate better Best of luck

[@brianmacadam4793]

I have an old British roadster, famous for overheating. I started with improved ducting, did the electric fan, then added a second fan, then redid the ducting. The final solution included "exit" ducts improved side vents and cleaning up the floor pan. It was a pain to do but now the car is vastly more comfortable inside and doesn't even comes close to overheating.

[@Bman2020]

The ramp truck will do what you want keep at you will find away it’s been a great build awesome to see everyone stepping up to lend a hand great watch 👍👋🇨🇦

[@Goldstandardmachine138]

Ive built customs and classic restorations for 15 years, and 20 years in the automotive repair industries. Has anyone suggested ignition timing? It'll run hot if its not where it needs to be. I saw you had someone with hptuners playing with the trans shift points in a previous episode. Just my $0.02

[@stich1960]

This is why my last build got hot on its maiden voyage I messed up ignition

[@wayneberryman1000]

Exactly

[@truckladders4104]

Great video, your honest about the challenges I have a few suggestions The high engine temps ! Make a list of every possible concern so you don’t miss any Some suggestions I would look at 1 lbs engines are the latest design and hence made to run at higher temps 220 operating is unusual. Oe solution was 17lb rad caps you gain 3 degrees over boiling (54*) I would feel comfortable at the but the OE design goes there. You need to follow your coolant flow and make sure you cap

[@minnesotatomcat]

Get a fan and a bunch of buddies with bongs to stand in front and blow rips through the grill to do some proper wind tunnel testing and see how the air is flowing 👍🤣

[@joecioe8566]

Off to a bumpy start. Good luck hope all is good for the long haul.

[@robertbennett9243]

Good video. You will get all the bugs fixed! Have you thought about making holes in the deck to increase the air flow ? Seems like with all the sheet metal on top and sides the warm air does not have much area to escape.

[@ronbunker5778]

Good to see you are keeping your sense of humor over the cooling issue. It's always that way when you have a tight schedule, good luck!

[@Blondihacks]

Goddam that thing is wicked. Hope to get to see it in person someday. Gotta swing out your way. Bravo. No notes. Amazing work, gents. You’ll get the kinks worked out, Karl! It’s gonna be awesome

[@nicholasjulianriley]

Cool seeing you commenting here - I've been following your lead from Apple II to hobby machining to Brent and Karl's shenanigans. No idea if a collab could be a thing? :-)

[@MakeItKustom]

Thanks! Quinn! We will catch up for a beer the next time I roll Thru!

[@kirkoglesby6175]

Here's my 2 cents on the cooling. Rubber guides to feed the fresh air all the way back to the rad. Instead of the air hitting the rad and going around. You want to give it only one path to feed in. Dual fan setup. The air coming past the the rad should have plenty of room for escape. Not really seeing exit being a problem so much as getting air to it.

[@brucecard5213]

Fan blowing wrong way pushing air out forward Seen it many times

[@kirkoglesby6175]

@brucecard5213 I'd like to give Karl and Brent more credit than that. have been watching both a long time. I mea, when I set up an electric fan, I use a piece of paper to ensure air direction.

[@brucecard5213]

@@kirkoglesby6175 easy thing to overlook in a thrash trying to meet a deadline ive learned better to mention what could be a prob stays cool stopped heats up when moving is a symptom of fan running backwards looks like he's got a big enough rad in it

[@kirkoglesby6175]

@brucecard5213 Yeah, nothing like missing something in the rush. I've been there.

[@OWFab]

​@brucecard5213 maybe not the fan... but the vacuum created by that cab will cause the air to change direction in the "swirl" fighting the fan and thus no air flow at mid range speed. Stopped at traffic and the fan works... at high speed the wind blows past it and the fan can direct the air through the radiator. Extend the bed over the radiator, shroud it from the "vortex" zone of the cab.... or completely relocate the cooling system.😢

[@randywaldrep8482]

Get with Dan D&D Speed Shop, He had an electric fan the fixed his cooling issues. He has purchased and used it on other vehicles sense then the same fan on other applications. Manual fans did work for many years just saying. Cool Build I hope the factory setup long term is a fix.

[@brianscott1898]

@Carl., nice work boyz., Truck looks awesome!!! For all you built and made the temp is a minor issue., hope the fans worked

[@Willbme4EVA]

Totally enjoying this series, I would think about mounting the AC condenser, and or Oil Cooler Horizontally under the Cabin with those uber electric fans. Just an Idea to help you out with the heat.

[@chrisjohnson6554]

Karl , check out some of the drag & drive video's , they make a compleat tunnel to make sure all the air coming in the grill has to go through the rad

[@kurtludwig6962]

All new builds have problems you’ve been more than patient ❤

[@cyrilcordelier8418]

Have a great road trip to Manitoba, you and Brent rock!

[@kevinwallis2194]

I always use a stock car solid fans on all my cars. They pull a ton of air .

[@alexanderalejo5708]

You two for me are the best fabricators on youtube! "Make it Halfass collab"

[@alanstryker7355]

Great video,Great COE build,Great friends, i love when You & Brent team up, you guys are second to none. Keep on Keeping on!

[@joeg7755]

Hey Karl, not sure if you solved your engine noise problem yet. I posted this on Brent's page a couple days ago as I seen that video first. But here are my 2 cent comments. Are all the bolts that couple the flex plate to torque converter tight? I wonder if one of them has backed out and rubbing on the engine/transmission adaptor housing? Also, as the torque converter balloons as it warms up and while under load it could cause the coupling bolts to hit the adaptor housing if they are not correct for clearance. Just a couple of thoughts. Great build!

[@noprojectgarage]

I'm thinking you may running a bit lean fuel wise . It's another factor when you are running hot when the motor has more load like climbing a hill.

[@tomcoryell]

Lean, or maybe too much advance.

[@frederickshipp8013]

Karl,use 309 rod or wire to weld stainless to carbon. Note,it will rust so weld where it won't be seen if possible. I have a GMC cab similar to yours without the extra on the back of it. It is an old military truck.

[@Jim-he4km]

The triangular hole in the A- arm looks a LOT like a NACA duct that could be sucking air under/ off the rad. Plug that, I think that may help???

[@dennisfoltz7880]

Air deflectors are good . Being a long way from the grill you may try tilting the radiator like the corvettes did . Also a thicker radiator with more cooling tube's.

[@looslimb]

I think that the doors on the bed opening downward is going to get very old very fast. Think it would be better if they were opening towards the front. Also, feel that the wheel opening on the rear needs a blister over the top like a crescent to match the front arches. 2 words for the cab... linear actuators! Keep up the great content!

[@HeppKattProductions]

just wondering if you thought about checking the water pump. Used to have a Jeep Cherokee that had a H2O pump that squeaked like that. Never leaked, just squeaked and worked poorly. Changed it out because the noise drove me nut. After that thing ran cold even in summer.

[@BrettClark-h7u]

The cool air is taking the path of least resistance. Not through the radiator! Maybe putting the rad iator at the front will work but will need air flow managment still. Good luck!

[@MrAussieCrasher]

We all need a mate like Brett what a trooper, easy to see Karl was over it but Brett got him motivated . Yes use wet water or Coopers both work great and let’s face it after two months when summer is over you will be freezing again in the Canadian winter 🥶

[@tomcoryell]

That truck looks cool when crouched!

[@guyfranks4354]

Karl, if you are having cooling issues and have a persistant squealing noise, I would check the water pump. Just a thought. Hope you find that pesky squeal soon and repair it.

[@kevins.7990]

I used to have a GMC years ago, and it had a serpentine belt that would squeak. Whenever I replaced it with a "Dayco" brand from a parts store, it would start squeaking again shortly thereafter. Eventually, I replaced it with a Goodyear/Continental brand belt, and it never squeaked again. Maybe it would fix your belt issue also by changing brands.

[@malcolmyoung7866]

Watched Brent's road trip episode last night.what a great journey and wild places to visit...Two great fabricators and wild truck/car builds what is not to like..?

[@coupestanger90]

I commented about the fan in your instagram post, had the same issue with a shroud i built almost the same. Added some rubber flaps that open under pressure while driving and that helped quitena bit

[@liquidhandwash]

Great to see the truck driving around in one of the most beautiful parts of the world. Also, you teased us with donuts on the ramp truck!

[@faroironandcustoms6577]

I'm sure you know by now how it worked. Those slim fans aren't great. Unfortunately, my Ranger 5.0 swap has just enough room for a slim fan, so my eyes are always on the engine temp. Years ago my auto instructor in community college had an electric fan in his Elco. He used the Elco fan shroud and a fan out of a Lincoln or something grafted to the factory shroud. Sounds like if you get the air flow right you will be ok. Loving the ramp truck. Maybe someday I can do a Ford COE or something. Looking forward to the trip!!!

[@stanleymartin1613]

Cool video! Squealing sound on motor sounds like water pump. Enjoyed watching ✌️ 😎

[@paulvanhouts3365]

Yeah me too, I’m not much of a mechanic but my tractor had that problem and I swapped out the bearings, all solved, but trucks and cars have more hanging off them that could do it too.

[@henryverrydt4943]

Water wetter, pusher fan and puller fans fixed the overheating issues on a Flexble bus I worked on

[@adamfoster5334]

Fix the cooling when you 12 valve swap

[@rcjbvermilion]

If you're ever headed through Lethbridge, I should buy you lunch. I've thoroughly enjoyed watching many of your videos.

[@jackwesselman6281]

Like others have said, you need a shroud from the rad to and inch or so back of fan blade. Follow the oem of the day. You have to force the fan to draw all air into the fan by going ONLY through the rad.

[@richardjones38]

I make parts for VW engine conversions, including a horizontal radiator mounted under the floor in the centre of a T2. The system is very well proven, but there is more to getting a radiator mounted in a 'sub optimal' location to cool. Air doesn't want to go through the core - you have to make it go through the core with ducting, to keep the air pressure in front of the radiator slightly higher than behind. The pressure difference is what makes it flow through the core. I've also have many customers use cheapo amazon / ebay temp gauges, and panic because their gauge says their newly installed engine conversion is running how. Only for the ECU parameters, or a k type thermocouple to prove that it isn't. A lot of these cheapo gauges over read by about 10 degrees C. Don't bother with the waterless coolant. It's total junk. If it were as good as the manufacturer's claim, they'd publish it's publish it's specific heat capacity (they didn't, at least when I investigated it in detail a few years ago), and it would be more than 1 if it could move heat more efficiently than water. I've had it cause big problems in customers conversions, which were totally fixed by using conventional water / glycol coolant. Water has one of the highest specific heat capacities.

[@PCP6996]

While I do think the engine might be a tad too small, from a thermodynamic point of view a bigger one will produce just as much heat, as long as the load stays the same. Whenever you require a certain amount of power, a ICE creates about 3x (gas) or over 2x (diesel) heat that needs to be evacuated.

[@daleking8529]

Truck is awesome just a few bugs which is normal for a new build. How about moving the transmission cooler from in front of the radiator to a custom-built box with a fan of it's own?

[@AirfixLtd]

Have a GREAT trip guys! 😀

[@That70sChannel]

15:11 that shot right there looks so much like your initial vision of this truck when you were sketching it out on paper!

[@noprojectgarage]

You can check that by installing an air fuel ratio gauge

[@Yaman-D-Chhaya]

Dear Carl konnichiwa 🙏🙏🙏it's been great to have watched all the build for this beauty truck bro, must say awesome work, I saw the struggle for the cooling issues, I may be totally wrong but I feel the steel bumper on the front if it has some vents, or may be you cut slots 1½inch thick, 3 or 4 of them in the front I feel it's gonna help more to ventilate the area better than removing the chrome extention to the GMC logo dear bro, hope this can solve your issue❤❤ great series of videos Carl love and warm regards from India🇮🇳🇮🇳❤️❤️👌👌

[@wallemahatma]

32:37 that‘s the kind of friend you need: when the sh*t hits the fan for three days in a row and he will come home a day later than planned, still he has a joke on his lips to cheer you up. pure gold.

[@marca5883]

Such a shame the truck didn't make the road trip💚🇬🇧🌱 totally feel for you guys, great content all the same👌

[@adamduchesne]

Great job

[@johnkranz4004]

Very KOOL Brent and Karl

[@tonyroman1569]

Love both you guys dig it.

[@chrisbrown2174]

Always bugs to work out when you're rushing to get things done. Good luck with the trip 😎

[@chadalan2567]

Are you running an external transmission cooler aswell as running it through the radiator or just running it through the radiator for the cooling of the gearbox fluid?

[@nzsaltflatsracer8054]

A fan pulls air through the radiator from the least restrictive location. If the radiator is not sealed to the body the hot air will be pulled from the back of the radiator around the sides & top thus reducing it's ability to remove heat.

[@PaulAsselstine]

Nice truck Karl. Excellent job building this from nothing. I can't imagine how much all that steel is costing you. well worth it a one of a kind ramp truck.

[@GreggGonzalez-ei1gu]

Awesome stuff 👍

[@cwsgarage]

You should hunt down some vintage Stewart Warner "Worldwide series" gauges, they have Celsius and Fahrenheit. Truck is looking great, ya'll have killed it.

[@lawrenceessard4086]

Missing your videos ,healthy is the most important thing USA loves you😊😊😊😊😊

[@tetedur377]

The quick way to convert to F from C is to double C and add 32. So 20C*2= 40C + 32 = 72F. There's an actual formula that involves fractions, and while I can do fractions, I can't do them in my head. But, it's similar to my shorthand method, though more accurate. For us, the shorthand is close enough. It got up to 90F where I'm at, so 90F-32=58. 58/2=29C. Note that the answer is actually 32.22C, but, like I said, close enough for government work and the girls I go with.

[@adamkelly6264]

I know you'll have a long list of stuff to get on with, but I think those side boxes are gunna get a lot of water in them when it rains. They need an internal lip and a seal, if you want that plywood to last more than a couple of weeks.

[@seaforb13]

Move the oil cooler back on its own thermofan. Clutch fan with shroud. But that's a tiny rad for such a large truck, double stack to be fancy.

[@mrgreezy1]

You could also canvas all the cab corners with louvers. 😊

[@dillonweigel3101]

In my experience a thermostat that’s too cold will cause a vehicle to heat up while driving but cool down when idling. At cruising RPM the coolant doesn’t stay long enough in the radiator to actually cool, and the thermostat opening at too cold of a temp will make the coolant constantly circulate. With a hotter thermostat, it will take longer to open up, allowing the coolant to stay in the rad longer. The fact that it cools down when idle tells me it’s not entirely a matter of airflow

[@adamduchesne]

You need to build barrier between , what your hauling and the cab. Won't take much to wipe out the cab and everything in it. We already know the cab does an indo by design .so any damage to the back latch . Would be bad for the people in the cab .JS

[@tomcoryell]

Headache Rack is what we call it in the oil patch. Or maybe you already knew that…..

[@adamduchesne]

@@tomcoryell your right .I really didn't know exactly what to call it . But, I've heard that term before .

[@frankm8533]

That's the best looking ramp truck I've ever seen

[@royalaxe]

ooo carl, i would not put the fuel filler close to the engine.. splashes on filling might overheat the fuel bringing it too close to an ignition point.

[@TrashcanGarage]

Fingers crossed on the roadtrip. Hope it went well. 🤘😎

[@jazzxtreme2674]

You probably already know this... but make sure that your steam port that that crosses from one cylinder head to the other is plumbed into your radiator or upper radiator hose. Very important on an LS Engine. Great Job!

[@13coyote13]

The fix is a 12 valve.

[@minnesotatomcat]

Exactly, why would you put a stupid little LS motor in a truck like that. I normally trust Karl’s judgment but that choice has bothered me from day one.

[@kevinmoir548]

If you can lower the radiator cooler into the air flow and introduce a scoop it may help

[@glennvinicombe1668]

Air likes to take the easyest route so you need to force it through the rad so try more virical ducting

[@11silver-bullets]

I put a 6-71 blower on a 77 vette . It ran hot till I put the fan shroud back on . Ran it with the original clutch fan . No shrowd it would overheat instantly.

[@demmarcsxr]

Hey Karl, did you miss adding your rear center width clearance lights?

[@glennbevan8743]

You’re looking at where the air goes in are you also looking at where the air can go out?

[@keithk2926]

You need to fab along shroud from your grill back to the radiator,like some one all ready said air goes all over and around

[@RonSales]

That big of framed truck hauling should have at least a 6 core rad. baffles in the front to force air into the radiator. Sounds Like the bearing in the water pump is starting to go out and it's squealing your belts.

[@dancarter482]

Whatever that other cooler matrix is in front of the rad' isn't helping any. If it was higher, the air could pass under it. Maybe creating a hot spot. Ducting is definitely key to good airflow as is a good escape path - the more air you can draw away behind the source of heat. the more will be dragged in the front. As others have said, a grid instead of a plate for the deck behind the cab should make a big difference. _Awesome BIG-rig!_

[@davehala3781]

Did you use a low cost bargain rad? They have smaller diameter tubes. If you use a rad with larger diameter tubes it will cool better. For example, compare a Griffin rad to one of the low cost rads. I realize a Griffin isn't always in the budget, but may be able to find some large rads like the Griffin's out there in the middle price range and that will most likely solve your problem.

[@richardsiemienczuk9001]

From what I could tell Karl is using an old school all metal copper/brass radiator. I agree with going with a Griffin rad or similar. What is key is all aluminum which is more efficient in cooling than a similar size copper/brass. What is also key as you mentioned is larger diameter tubes. It is more efficient to go with a large diameter tubing in a two row core rather than three or four row tube cores. The three or four rows are just smaller diameter tubes and restrict the flow. I chased down an issue with replacing an oem aluminum/plastic rad in a XJ Cherokee when the plastic tank cracked. I decided to go with an all metal copper/brass rad and right away the engine ran hot which it never did before. I tried everything as Karl is doing with ducts, remove any obstruction if front of the rad, hd clutch fan, high flow thermostat and housing, lower rad hose with internal spring, nothing was making a difference until I replaced the all metal copper/brass with an all aluminum two row core rad. Without changing anything else the all aluminum rad ran cooler than the oem setup. With the oem 195 degree thermostat it runs all day between 190 and 200 no matter the outside temp. Changing to high power fans may help some but without increasing the heat transfer efficiency of the core tubes the copper/brass core tubes can only cool so much. Anyone building an LS motor in just about any vehicle is using an all aluminum rad.