Jain Kim - Rock Climbing Technique Compared

[@markbowen1463]

Kim Jain's foot placement is always so precise and calculated. Beautiful to watch. Thank you for this great video :)

[@timotheverrette5988]

ABsolutely! Her footwork is amazing!

[@hannahclarke2611]

Keeping her arms long and shoulders relaxed compliment her exact footwork. I notice how some of the other climbers tense their torso and have tension in their arms which burns energy so fast and makes them look 'heavy' on the wall.

[@lawrencetchen]

Jain reminds me of elite marathon runners - her climbing economy makes her so efficient with the energy that she expends.

[@chaseramos4865]

And she takes longer which expends more energy.

[@yangz1036]

One of the best video about climbing techniques! It's great to compare different people to solve the same problem and even split into steps! It's better than just see master's skills alone. I'll only know my error when I see other people do it too. Please keep posting these videos!

[@BeefyBoulders]

yang zhou I wish I could but I'm in America now :(((

[@amyliao1049]

she just looks so elegant doing it, while others just ...slowly 'dying' there on their way up.... i feel like it's the tips & toes, the handling of the rope, the control, the pace, the positions, the clean moves, and her appearance, attitude and mind that makes her look and be incredible.

[@whitenoise7034]

it real is like she's in a seperate league

[@williamdinning6876]

Roarke Suarez compared to the other two, she is

[@henneclimbs1989]

Kim is just incredibly experienced for her age and generally one of the most composed and calm climbers I've seen. The rest of the field really looks like children compared to her. Even backclipped in competition 4:20, hesitating to make .10+ difficulty moves. This is Kim vs the Greenhorns

[@BeefyBoulders]

Brian Hennebry yea she just makes it look so easy. I climb with many of the others filmed and they are strong climbers, but Jain Kim is on another level.

[@xenidus]

Pretty sure 2:40 is a backclip too... Maybe everyone is exhausted and sloppy, but you hate to see that kind of dangerous mistake.

[@dannyboy-py7hj]

Janja seems to go on same path lately. Which is good . Heir to the Queen's throne 😆

[@Adelicows]

Jain is awesome but you don't need to be condescending towards the other climbers.

[@NetsuaiAngel]

Any possible way we can see a side by side comparison of each section of the route?

[@sk8guitardrums]

Jain Kim Is just so gracious and skillful technical climber, with some of the most power to weight ratio in the world, extremely strong and flexible in every way. plus one of the nicest people you could ever meet, very polite, respectful, intelligent, and sweet personality.

[@jorgedelapenaflores4158]

7:32 outstanding move meme

[@tamasbarad8202]

These comparisons help reminding you that gravity and bodyweight are a thing in this sport. With Jain it's easy to forget.

[@johnb7337]

She's keeping her weight on her feet, using hand holds to support that, while the others are keeping as much weight on every handhold as it will support. That's just basic technique; it's her smoothness and body positioning that make a difference at a higher level, along with using static moves others have trouble pulling off.

[@yokeleetan8525]

it is always amazing to watch her climb. such perfect move and flow.

[@kristinagolob9943]

i can't stop watching tha last 15 seconds of her climb. Out of this world

[@yokeleetan8525]

kim jain makes up for her small built by doing a lot of smearing and dynamic hand movement. that is why she can reach easily while others have failed. it is always a pleasure to watch her climbing on slab walls.

[@ph0xal1c10u5]

Ive recently started to climb and one key thing i notice on JK is how much she uses the wall itself. Think its called dabbing. Where the other contestants try very hard to only place on the holds, JK will often reposition using sections of wall to get a better angle and keep her mass balanced. 3.33 section are the best examples where the other contestants sort of "wrong hand" themselves because of their focus on the holds whereas JK gets a solid hold laterally scuttles to bring herself in the best position to attack the sequence. So inspiring, - Fox

[@jacccs]

Th3F0x it's called smearing, at least where I climb

[@august7439]

it's also called flagging. flagging stops your body from spinning off the wall. smearing is using the wall and your pressure against it as a makeshift foot hold.

[@fvc421]

She does smear a lot though. @@august7439

[@ExecutionSommaire]

The others look so heavy on the wall. And I guess they aren't beginners either... Wouldn't like to see myself tryin' ;) N°145 looks more on par though, is that Miho Nonaka? (there is a resemblance at least)

[@miss_mish]

So controlled with her movements and confident in her placements

[@faeleia]

Oh THANK YOU

[@KentuckyAirBros]

did anyone else notice the amount of back-clips

[@williamdinning6876]

Callsign KentuckyAirBros YES!!

[@SrLucasQ]

haha i missed them all

[@arnauorengoguardiola1616]

Where are they? I just see one

[@johnmacward]

The difference between Jain and the others is constantly straight arms, that makes for impeccable technique

[@CyberCelt.]

Great video for a beginner like me to compare, thank you. Keep up the good work. I've liked and subscribed.

[@KenzLovesMovies]

David Kennedy same! I’m a beginner climber and so, so inspired and in awe by her! She’s what I wanna be when I’m a grown-up climber :,)

[@Lightfastable]

my hands got so sweaty watching this lol great video

[@gilbertotron]

Amazing!!! Really amazing to watch - she is absolutely class.

[@YoureInSilico]

What grade is this approximately? Amazing technique, her climbing looks really effortless.

[@vahe1813]

Interested in the answer as well

[@TheKevinFanClub526]

The first one(red yellow mix) I would call it a 5.9 (5b ish) due to almost all juggy holds with some reachy moves. The second one (orange route) I would say 5.10+ or 5.11- (6b ish). There are 2 or 3 difficult moves but the rest of the holds are pretty positive. My gym tends to grade routes 1 or 2 grades lower than other gyms(5.9 in my gym would be a 5.10 elsewhere), So take my rating with a grain of salt.

[@TorchArts]

@@TheKevinFanClub526 Dude... i can flash 5.10b and i've climbed like 2 months, if there's PROFESSIONALS falling on a route i'll say lets start at 5.12 atleast or something lol

[@Melchiwhip]

@@TheKevinFanClub526 as the other guy told you, I doubt this is close to 5.10 It is so easy to missjudge a route by just watching a video, that is why is better to use common sense.

[@gsk4545]

일반인과 숙련자의 차이점을 알기쉽게 편집 해 놓셨네요 참고가 돼서 좋습니다

[@tonygu4083]

After descending, she bowed to the audience and then looked up, as if she were reflecting if there was room to improve. wow

[@George-nx8zu]

Can an experienced climber give me some insight into some of her techniques? I feel like there's so much I don't understand when I watch her climb. Can anyone give me more insight on these moves in particular: The first move at 0:34 She decides to get horizontal so that she can angle herself to the left in such a way that she can extend and use more of her leg strength instead of relying on her arm span. Is that right? I’m a bit confused about why this move worked better. Second move 0:49 Looks like the first girl just used her left arm strength whereas Jain figured out how to position herself so that she could use her legs and both arms to get up to the same hold. Is the trick here just starting very low for a better center of gravity? 4:52 I like the way she steps up the wall in small steps to get to her foot rest. Is this the optimal way to get your feet up to foot rests? 6:29 This looked crazy to me because how did she decide to take her left foot off the left foot rest and place it on the wall so that her body is more align with the hold that she’s trying to get to? Is this something I should be thinking about more- how to shift my feets’ position to square up better with a hold above me? 7:36 This move blew me away. I’m still trying to process this. The way she knew that she could give up the left foot rest and get the left leg higher to push off the wall with it. Sticking her right foot into the side of the hold so that its less awkward and then using her ankle to pivot that right foot to the top of the hold. I feel like there’s so much here that I don’t yet fully understand. 8:17 One thing that is really interesting to me again is that Jain seems to prioritize center of balance over spreading too thin. The other girl used both the foot rests but Jain only used the one on the right so that Jain stuck her left foot below that left foot rest and into the wall so that she could bend it in the direction of the hold she was after. Maybe somebody else could speak to this and better articulate what is going on.

[@BeefyBoulders]

George Yang I left this comment on Facebook as well. I can break down your comment in more detail soon but I hope this helps for now. Swarmthink on Reddit said. What is good about her technique? * **She is in balance:** her center of mass is always over her feet. Her knee is over her toe and outside the foothold- rocking over the hold. This puts her center of mass over her foot. Less technical climbers keep their knees inside or directly over the foot. This forces them to use their upper body to pull themselves into balance. * **She initiates movement from her legs and hips:** she does not pull herself up the wall, she presses herself up the wall using her legs. Movement begins in her hips. She does not use her arms until after she begins moving- movement generated with her legs. Most of us pull ourselves up the wall with our arms. * **Efficient upper body position:** Notice her lead arm and her lower arm positions. Her lead arm- the higher arm- is always straight-- always. She is hanging from her frame, not her muscles. She does not pull up with her arms, she presses up with her legs into a lock-off and then reaches up. * **She is close to the wall:** Her toes, knees, and hips are always touching the wall or nearly touching the wall, especially during movement. This way she can keep most of her weight on her feet. Look at the elbow of her lower arm as she moves: her forearm is almost always in a plumb line, her elbow is straight down, not out. Contrast that with less efficient climbers whose elbows are out as they are pulling their upper body back into the wall because their butt is too far out and not in close to the wall. * **She keeps it tight:** She has very good body tension. Her body, from her knees to her chest, is under tension and engaged. This allows her to transfer the weight to her feet and to generate momentum from her legs- to press straight up without twisting. People with poor body tension- a weak core and hips is a big culprit, but the entire muscle chain from shoulders to calves is involved in body tension- tend to torque when they initiate movement. They twist their knee to the inside to gain momentum and maintain tension. Torquing loads the upper body with each move as you untwist to try and get weight back on feet. Torquing is different than a twist-lock or drop knee-- these are used to lock in a position to keep the body close to the wall, especially on steep terrain. * **She has great flow and efficiency:** Notice how precise her foot and hand placements are. She places her toe- or heel- exactly where it need to be. She does not hit above the foothold and slide down to it, she does not hop to adjust her foot. She places her foot perfectly every time. Same with her hands. She does not adjust the grip several times. Her pace is perfect for her. Her style is steady and measured, other climbers move faster or slower. It is a matter of preference and style at her level. Pace takes a while to develop. Many of us are slow when we begin, but we get faster as we gain experience and learn to read the climb and anticipate positions and movement more quickly. We grow into the correct pace for us that allows us to flow and exist with the wall.

[@MassDynamic]

the great difference in skill level between jain kim and the other climbers is apparent...her climbing seems a lot smoother than the others.

[@BenLeer]

queuing up the film with split screen would help emphasis her techniques.

[@BeefyBoulders]

Ben Leer yea I'm contemplating reattacking this footage on last time with on screen annotations and side by side footage.

[@leoingson]

That would be great! And probably with other climbers that know a little more, what they are doing (one of the girls is quite clueless).

[@codyheiner3636]

I prefer consecutive to be honest. Humans can only look at one thing at a time anyway, split screen videos bother me because I have to rewind to see

[@BenLeer]

@@codyheiner3636 I use the rewind techniques to emphasize which training and conditioning strategies to implement. Split screen helps navigate where to focus my attention for future training.

[@김경호-j7r]

김자인 선수 진짜 세계랭킹 1위 맞네요. 항상 안정적인 자세 진짜 클라이밍에 여제입니다 답글 달아주세요 김자인 선수

[@toragi11]

Jain kim is just a perfect being basically.

[@vahe1813]

This shows so well how good technique makes you climb faster and drains less energy from you. Does anyone know what difficulty was this ? (6 ? 7 ? 8 ?)

[@kellyrussell1877]

she places her feet so deliberately and neatly, its like shes dancing

[@stewartmcdowall2285]

Poetry in motion indeed!

[@thomasditsas976]

The video is interesting - but i have an objection concerning the title. It's climbing performance compared not just technique. Thou technique maybe crucial, it is not just "technique"; physical & mental strength, flexibility and other factors can affect overall performance. Sometimes lack of, for example, flexibility or strength may cause a climber not to be able to make a nice move and this may result to a deterioration of the optical result, of the performance. The reason, in this case, is not that the climber didn't know the move, didn't have the "technique"; maybe in a less steep terrain he can do the move in a nice way... So it' s not just technique that makes Mrs. Kim so formidable, it is every aspect & factor that is perfect to form this result. Thank you.

[@kurokamei]

thank you for the video

[@ShredST]

Her every movement consists of her entire body moving in harmony. She never just moves one of her limbs.

[@h8rndg987]

where can I buy this chalk bag spongebob

[@90Gonia]

In every climbing shop ?:P :)

[@americatochile]

love her technique!!!

[@choongshane]

I honestly hate lead but some of those routes looked pretty fun

[@BeefyBoulders]

i like lead because its cool to take those skills outside. but im with you. i enjoy bouldering more :)

[@choongshane]

Bouldering Vlog yea true, but i always shit myself even if it's easy xD

[@outsidethepyramid]

That's really bad for the people under you.

[@maboul2706]

Good video! What is the cotations please..? Because it's feels not so difficult..

[@jordannarebbeck5744]

At any single moment of pause, her hips are always close in and facing the wall...makes it much easier to balance that way

[@demjurbatario293]

she make it like its easy amazing ...wow!

[@tho207]

people: the wall is lava Kim: whatever hahah

[@iTsEmS]

7:30 that Looks sooo easy😳😳🤭

[@codyheiner3636]

I feel like if I were a climber, being spotted so intently at the start of these climbs would just add to my nerves...

[@eugenejkim]

Wow. JK is miles beyond the other female contestants LOL it's basically no contest

[@jayistheway9968]

lol comparing people who don't even know climbing techniques with the master of footwork haha.

What's most amazing is I probably wouldn't call uploader's gym members bad climbers, probably they're better than me. But compared to Kim they make so many mistakes they look like newbies, crazy…

[@sanf5488]

Is anyone can't see the guy spotting the girl at 2:33 the harness uoside down!!???

[@kacheekyy]

That one girls whip on the last move would’ve made me crap my pants

[@나그네-m7s]

진짜 김자인 선수 무브 아름다운거 봐라 와!

[@williamdinning6876]

1:50 she backclipped the finishing anchor and the one below it

[@talyalewis6357]

Calm precision. Kim dances on the wall.

[@oliverhenderson2890]

soooo many back clips, one of the belayers even had their harness on upside down

[@ShowTheOreo]

Jain Kim is a BOSS

[@Gunsik93]

So sad that she got married. . . . . TT_TT I HOPE HE MAKES YOU HAPPY! WE COULD OF HAD SOMETHING SPECIAL lol Just watching Kim Jain will improve your technique and make you focus on your footwork. Her height makes you have NO excuses. "If only I was a little taller." I hear that every time I go to the climbing gym. xD

[@Moiez101]

Gunsik93 she got married?? T.T

[@yumchickens5676]

Why is it sad that she got married?

[@popolynn2]

4:46 why is this sound even allowd in a comp setting?

[@you_ssam]

김자인 선수 넘나 멋져요 ㅠㅠ

[@jumjum4587]

thanks for this video

[@thephore]

Why is the camera man wearing a helmet at 9:28?

[@flubberamoebes]

What sort of comp was this? Local? That didn't look much harder than 7a.

[@BeefyBoulders]

It was a Korea climbing comp. The wall was quite overhung but impossible to tell with how I shot it. This is also just qualifiers routes. Not even semis.

[@AL-mm4vq]

the comparison is biased, it's obvious the other girls don't have enough strength or experience

[@BeefyBoulders]

whats biased? they are all in the same competition.

[@swotchnelli665]

Why is it that when I watch her climb using the wall instead of the rocks it reminds me of Darwin from amazing world of gumball giving himself a “leg up “

[@gustavograssi]

ninja style! awesome!

[@samsteele2]

backclip @ 2:38 ?

[@BeefyBoulders]

looks like it. The twist in the quickdraw doesn't really help the climbers much either.

[@Mr1980Jonas]

Yes! If you look at the next climber you can clearly se how the binner is hanging 3:09

[@Horus-Lupercal]

True masters often look half asleep while nailing everything lol. Ever seen a BJJ black belt rolling with a beginner?

[@tyty4140]

7:30

[@케시움마케힘]

와 김자인선수 뒷태가 진짜 역삼각형이네...다르다

[@421MARKIE]

wow

[@marcelobedoya4103]

There very good

[@j-dragonclimbing2718]

all I know is they're both amazing lol

[@MaloupDesBois]

126 😳😳🧡

[@joeschmoe5816]

I don't know anything about rock climbing but the blond chicks technique seems so much better to me like its not even close.

[@jester1358]

Joe Schmoe She is a a master of foot work and she have awesome technique.

[@ivanroca2441]

The best

[@amirer1]

YELLOW !!!!

[@CarlVanBuuren]

why she's using chalk every 10 seconds

[@voodazz]

Hold my beer...

[@Mamlukk]

Рыжая ловкая как муха.

[@katpottz476]

spungbob

[@myfirstcrappyvideobilly]

The brunette isn't very skilled

[@버드나무합창단]

편집 뭐같아서 못보긋다

[@dukeofnuke2446]

It is cool that they climb but my sister that climbs could also climb that very ez

[@code3xiv]

Well. If you wanna climb better. Put more blonde color in your hair.