2014 MAZDA CX5--How to do an OIL CHANGE Step by Step--Tutorial

Step by Step. DO IT YOURSELF-- DIY-- How To-- Tutorial-- to do an OIL CHANGE on a 2014 MAZDA CX-5.
FILTER TYPE, OIL TYPE, AND TOOLS are INCLUDED IN THIS VIDEO.
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I bought my supplies on Amazon:
amzn.to/2fEzL3x --- 0W-20 Full synthetic oil
amzn.to/2HTdJEl Genuine Mazda Oil Filter amzn.to/2fE1Nwd -- Bosch 3300 oil filter
amzn.to/2vA7uPJ -- Fram PH6607 synthetic oil filter
amzn.to/2wHFNo3 -- 8mm Allen key socket
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If this video was helpful, please give me a thumbs up, share, subscribe, etc.
If you have any questions or comments, please send those also.
Thanks!
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[@acetech9237]

Be careful unscrewing the oil filter because not to dr.......OH GOD! Lol. That was funny.

[@briarfox637]

I didn't realize how easy it was to do this on the CX5. Hardest part seems to be crawling underneath it. Thanks for the vid. I never did ours because I didn't know you could get underneath it without jacking it up. And I thought the plate was a lot more difficult. Thanks for the vid. Gonna save some good money now.

[@alm3047]

Love the “Oh God” part. Great video overall! Thank you!

[@travisjones780]

I suggest filling with oil and checking for leaks before putting cover back on. Thanks for the video!!

[@eddygr8]

1. Would be nice to show how reset the oil meter 2. I always open the top oil cap before we open the drain plug. 3. Also, I always open the drain plug before filter to minimize the oil spill from filter. Overall good video. thanks for sharing

[@audiphilth]

The background comments during the oil filter prep are the BEST!!! This is so good, thanks.

[@stevefox4877]

Thanks for taking the time to create this video. Seems like years have past and it is still assisting folks with their oil change. Well done.

[@andreytestonsantini3000]

Your video motivated me to change the oil for the first time in my life. Thank you very much.

[@FrostyCoug]

After filling, it's also good to run the engine for a minute to "burp" the filter and the rest of the system. It usually causes the oil level to drop a little. Then, I check the dipstick and top off. Considering Skyactiv-G engine drinks a bit of oil, it's important to start with at least a nominal oil level, so you don't run the dipstick dry in a few thousand miles.

[@BoogieDownProduction]

I like Bosch filters in general (same thing as pureolator pureone) but for the skyactiv engines I hear its best to stick with either OEM or Napa Gold. The reason is because that filter you used is for multiple manufactures/vehicles all with different specs and the filter is basically a "happy medium". Napa gold and OEM are specifically made for the skyactiv engines. Also oil is carcinogenic get a pack of gloves well worth it. And I would suggest changing the drain bolt since those commonly strip. Also I have a hard time believing the torque wrench is giving you accurate measurement due to the swivel joint/extensions, maybe its close enough. Last thing I would like to say is I would recommend filling the new filter with oil before reinstalling.

[@kenebene139]

Very good instruction man. Not too long but detailed enough for an amateur.

[@aintnodisco7127]

"Make sure it doesn't splash OH GOD!" I legit laughed out loud. Thanks for the how-to video!

[@jean-francoispoitras6857]

Thanks for the video, very helpful. I just did it on my 2013. Only difference was that it was a 19mm nut instead of a 8mm hex for the oil pan. Maybe a mechanic has changed it during a previous maintenance though.

[@hiltonkanhoye8574]

Very good step by step.No need to torque.Just tighten snug.#

[@danw4568]

This was a good video in that it shows where everything is and what you need. Here is a summary (and a few new things) about the points that others have made: - Adhere to the owner's manual about the oil change interval. Based on how black this oil was it seems like it was overdue for a change (and it looks like it was the original filter). - He uses the proper 0w20 synthetic oil with a high quality filter, I recommend the same - good job! - The engine should be warm when changing the oil, to loosen up the gunk (especially oil this dirty). - Just my opinion, removing the engine cover is overkill but it's good to know how it's done. - Make sure the car is level when draining, filling and checking the oil. He jacks up the car to remove the filter but it wasn't clear that he let it back down before completing the job. - It's always a good idea to wear nitrile gloves to prevent the nastiness from getting on your hands. Also, invariably oil will drip outside of the pan so it's a good idea to spread cardboard or newspaper underneath where you're working. - Drain the oil before removing the filter - much less mess! - If the engine is warm, the filter will be hot, so invest in an oil filter wrench. - He properly lubricates the rubber gasket with oil - many people forget this and it's important. - I've never heard to tighten the filter as much as you can (by hand). The instructions usually say to tighen until there's contact between the engine and rubber gasket, the 1/4 turn more. - Technically you should replace the crush washer on the drainplug every time you change the oil. - While it's a good idea to use a torque wrench on the drainplug, make sure the handle is perpendicular to what you're tightening to get a proper reading. - He pushes in on the oil jug foil seal to break it. Bad idea, since you don't want to risk pieces of the seal getting into the oil. The seal should be COMPLETELY removed before pouring. - My preference - wait to replace the lower cover until after the engine has run so you can detect if there are any leaks. - Check the oil level AFTER the engine has been running a bit, to ensure that the oil has circulated, especially into the filter. - Reset the oil change indicator light: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iIq8kKKFZ8l2js0

[@danw4568]

One more comment... he adds 4.5 quarts which brings it up halfway on the dipstick. I believe the Mazda specs call for 4.8 quarts. When I change oil I like to see the level at 3/4 at a minimum

[@jakeguitar01]

+Dan W ----> all great points. Thanks. Just a little feedback. The filter was not the original. I had the dealership change the oil for a while since it was free for the first 2 yrs. Yes, the oil was overdue. The engine was warm but I like the oil to settle into the pan, so I'll never do it right after running the engine for too long. Thanks for watching and commenting...

[@EyebelieveTheNarrative]

All that and no comment about clicking more than once? Some expert you are.

[@RockstarBruski]

@jakeguitar01 Good video thanks for making it and @danw4568 yours is a helpful comment with the steps that people should follow. The only steps I would add to your steps is try to use a torque wrench without a universal adapter to get a better torque reading. Also block the wheels with a wheel block if your leaving the car on the ground for safety. If you jack the car up make sure you use safety stands. Also using an oil funnel to fill the new oil in the top of the engine oil fill hole is an easier thing to use and prevents oil spillage on your engine.

[@dleetrini]

Great video, keep it up. I have a 2015 Mazda CX5 GT and just took it to my dealership today for an oil change. I will be looking out for more CX-5 videos.

[@Michael-ot7tz]

After you lube the ring of the oil filter, put some oil in the filter before you put it back on, it will prime the line so no dry burps! When you start up the engine….all good , easy peasy

[@mrmojorisen6336]

best to drain the oil when the engine is warm . you can let it run for several min. or after driving, let oil cool down and settle, then drain . latex gloves work good . after you loosen the oil filter , take a walmart sack with a little newspaper in it, wrap it around the fiter and finish unscrewing it . helps with the OMG moments . GF's got a 14 CX-5 2.5L . helluva motor and bites good on the road . good job, hope the tips help a little .

[@dumazzz3]

yes, make sure it's a walmart sack!

[@andreytestonsantini3000]

Congratulations for this really useful video. Thanks! :D

[@Bamaca_B58]

I just wanted to see if there were going to be any covers but I got a good kick out of it .. "ohh god!" .. Game Over transition 😂

[@brendonstack1835]

Thanks man, big help. Nice and clear 👍

[@plin20000]

5:41 Oh O God!! I am so sorry but I lol'ed. In part because exactly the same horror had happened to me.

[@jakeguitar01]

Yeah, I hope you got a good laugh at that. I like to have a little fun sometimes.

[@acetech9237]

That was so fuckin funny

[@dexterm1285]

No leaks using the old gasket on drain plug?

[@EmmanuelSanchez-mb8wf]

Hell yeah dude I got one and was just curious since I never had a new model car lol

[@WoZIMoo]

Don't mean to sound like a jackass but when you torque something, the fastener and the torque wrench have to share the same axis of rotation to correctly measure the torque. If you're sending torque at an angle through a swivel adapter you're not reading the right torque at the wrench. Best not to do that. Don't think I've seen too many people actually torque a drain plug anyhow, just snug it till the washer seals. Also not a bad idea to prefill the oil filter, especially when you're lucky enough to have it in a vertical position. That way you have oil pressure for the first seconds your engine runs.

[@jakeguitar01]

+Phil3555 Thanks for your input. I agree with you about the swivel adapter. As for torquing the drain plug, maybe it may be overkill, but I have left oil change places where the oil was leaking from the plug, all because it wasn't tightened enough. And on the other hand, if you tighten it too much, you are liable to strip the threads. Who knows.... that drain pan could be made of aluminum for all I know. Better safe than sorry, and that's why I recommend doing it, especially when explaining to a person who has never done it before or does not have the "feel" to know when the plug is just tight enough.

[@huntlarry1]

ditto. I calibrated torque wrenches for years. Even holding the end can affect the value. Count yourself lucky if it torques to within 10% accuracy. Always set torque wrench to lowest setting when no in use too.

[@gee3883]

Hey thanks dude very helpful

[@lucassorrenti6841]

“Torques” drain plug with a flex 😬

[@VitosFix]

Thanks! Helped a lot!

[@ArmandoMartinez-fi9qv]

Great video!! Thanks for sharing. I would like to know how the transmission oil level is check..

[@alfierose]

This comment is many many months later as you can see, but i have to say that the "Oh God" comment you said when you dropped the oil filter reminded me of the "My dog stepped on a bee" from Amber Turd while she was telling her story. Did you do the Amber face too? Hey, nice video. I appreciate it! :)

[@redskins1120]

5:41 was super funny!

[@moileung]

Good to know, cx5 oil change don't need jackstands? They are high enough for us small people to slide in? I remember my bro inlaws Jeep Liberty is high too, no need to Jack stand it when I change oil. Now my old Pontiac Sunfire, needs Jack stands.

[@MAX5WM]

Nice funnel. Be sure to start draining the oil before you remove the filter. You might also want to check out Fumoto valves. They save a lot of time and mess. No more oil plug. Open a ball valve and drain through a hose straight to a bottle. $25.

[@lawrenceswanberg770]

Fumoto drain valves are really cool. I have one on my Ram truck and my 2015 Mazda 3.

[@Retrospectttttttt]

Thank you, much appreciated

[@jenseninterceptors]

Thanks for this, i have to do my girlfriends daughters car today

[@MikeMiheli]

Why didn't you drain the oil before removing the filter?

[@sramzurc8000]

5:42 was hilarious lol

[@tgibbs13]

Question for you! Just picked up a 2014 CX-5 (Touring?)... and after your oil change... was/is there a setting where ya need to reset your "oil life" setting? Or is that not an option on this year of the CX-5?

[@greyghost302]

Please show how to reset oil change message

[@brego129]

2014 doesn't have that. Look up for a 2016+

[@blackjoebufa]

What year is yours

[@TonyTurnbull94]

Hi, is this gasoline or diesel? I saw from other comments that its a 2.5l. I have a 2.2 diesel so just wondering if 0w.20 is OK to use?

[@blackjoebufa]

Im a master mazda tech here first of do not use fram filters on these engines try to use oe also if you have the allen drain plug throw it out they strip if not torqued and leak if under torqued always use new crush seals if you guys arw planing on saving about 50 bucks on doing oil changes go to your dealer ask for updated drain plug 17mm head on it and a bag of crush washers and a box of skyactive filters dealer is sometimes cheaper than amazon try not to go to 8000km on oil changes keep it around 7 make sure to do induction services . If your car is still underwarrenty make sure you check your infointment ver if its 55 or below go in and complain it freezing and have black screen and get free update to check infotainment ver only go to setting and ver info

[@JesusIsGod222]

what do you think about using 5w 30 for very HOT climate instead of 0w20 ?

[@blackjoebufa]

@@JesusIsGod222 you can use 5w 30 i would probably use 0w 40 if its hot all year gives more protection on cold starts and stays thicker when fully hot

[@blackjoebufa]

@@JesusIsGod222 in owners manual tells u which oils to use in diff climates

[@finessindanny2417]

Why shouldn’t you use fram

[@johngaffigan9568]

@@blackjoebufa I've always been in the camp that you want "some" viscosity on the cold end - 0W is too watery,,,5W keeps just a bit more oil on wear parts. Sure, you'll get sightly better EPA rated gas mileage with the 0W, but long term engine wear improves by having a better oiled engine at cold start. Prefer hot oil lubrication at 30 weigh over 20 weight too. For long term engine health, its 5W30 over 0W20 for me.

[@hpppp850]

Did you lift the car?

[@TheChineseJapanese]

Nice job, nice

[@markg999]

Easy car to do a oil change...I've left the cover off for oil filter for years no difference on gas mileage.

[@ArmandoMartinez-fi9qv]

Very informative video.. quick question what's the millage in your vehicle? My vehicle has 111,000 miles and not sure if I have to use 0w-20 hig millage or regular 0w-20

[@jakeguitar01]

Ive got about 165k on my vehicle and Ive been using high milage full synthetic in the engine, with no issues so far!

[@bobjackson7595]

Thanks

[@ericcobos-dygert3127]

Bought at 2014 cx-5 grand touring a month ago. Doing my first oil change tommorow! Not sure how to reset the oil change message. Gonna have to visit the dealer I guess haha

[@indranilchakraborty2731]

Eric Cobos-Dygert Owner's manual has the steps on how to reset it

[@rainysunday6186]

There is no message

[@TheSchmed]

Easy, just go into you display under applications and maintenance

[@easterlake]

How do you tighten as "tight as you can" and then tighten 1/8 turn more???

[@jakeguitar01]

+easterlake ---> you gotta have a "feel" for it. You make it tight by hand, then you give it one extra little push.... about 1/8 turn more to snug it up. (I thought you were referring to the drain plug without the use of a torque wrench).

[@easterlake]

jakeguitar01 wrong

[@jakeguitar01]

easterlake ---> excellent. Thanks for watching....

[@tomnguyen1802]

I just bought myself a 2016.5 CX-5 and they told me it’s full synthetic oil but when should I change the oil?? At 3000 or 5000???

[@easterlake]

Tom Nguyen 7000-10000

[@indranilchakraborty2731]

If you use Castrol Edge 0w-20 you can set the oil change interval to be 'flexible' using the maintenance app (see owner's manual). Once you do that, you simply change it when the maintenance indicator comes on. You should get about 9-10k miles (or 1 year, whichever is earlier). I have the exact same model and an oil change costs me about $35 and lasts me about 10-12 months.

[@blackjoebufa]

The sooner the better go every 5000km better for engine i work on theses all day and see people go 15000km on new engines with no oil change not a good idea plugs vvt micron screens

[@TripppleP13]

5:42 to hear the guy say "oh God"

[@karlfranklin2728]

you don't put the skid plate back up without checking for leaks with a final inspection, he did not check for leaks or nothing, you are fired lol

[@TheSchmed]

Torque not Torx wrench

[@jg11596]

is that 2.5 litre motor? how do you like the CX5?

[@jakeguitar01]

Yes. This Mazda has a 2.5L engine. Its fine. It has enough power. The only complaints I have with the car is that I feel that it has a couple of blind spots. There is one over the passenger seat, just trying to make a left turn at a regular intersection is hard since you cant really see to the right side over the seat headrest and through the door pillar. There is another one in the back of the car. I have removed all three headrests from the rear seats. I also feel that the car has a transmission issue which has been getting worse. I have about 63k miles on the car and at about 59k, it started acting real funny, banging into gear when decelerating. Another thing I don like is that you cant shut the car off while listening to the radio. It shuts everything off and if you are listening to something, you will miss it. Its because of that stupid push button start. Other than that, the car is comfortable, reliable, and good on gas..

[@boq9336]

I just bought a 13 cx-5 with 36,000 miles, right now i have already feeling some jerky shifting from 1st to 2nd gear... about to check the tranny oil dipstick, but we have to take off air vent first... and you are so right about blind spot!

[@jakeguitar01]

I dont believe there is a transmission dipstick. I haven't looked hard for it, but I was told that the car doesn't have one. It might just be that these cars have crappy transmissions in them. By the way, my car will UPSHIFT funny when the car is cold. My car always did that from day one. But now its DOWNSHIFTING funny when I decelerate. I feel its not smooth. It bangs hard into gear when downshifting sometimes.

[@boq9336]

jakeguitar01 yes yes! it is upshifting funny from 1st to 2nd when it's cold, it bangs into gear and you can feel it throughout the car. My old 2003 subru legacy never had such problem until i flushed the tranny after almost never serviced it for 4-5 years... bad decision. anyway, i never found the dipstick too, and owner's manual never mentioned a word about transmission as well... this is what i found on the internet though, but i never saw the dipstick under the air vent through visual check, hopefully there is one to check. www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2013_Mazda_CX-5_Sport_2.0L_4_Cyl./transmission_fluid/add_level

[@usmc2msu213]

jakeguitar01 there is a dipstick. The tranny is allegedly sealed, but my dealership still changes the fluid. I think the sealed tranny talk is all marketing.

[@purplebushi]

Lol "oh god"

[@7spower998]

Amateur. Dropped the OF Amateur. Didn't wear a pair of gloves to prevent hands from getting burnt Amateur. Used of aftermarket Bosch OF vs OEM Mazda OF made by Tokyo Roki Amateur. Didn't fill the oil filter with oil to prevent dry startup to the valve train Amateur. Etc....

[@jamesobrien3437]

We have a pro over here watching oil changes on KZbin lol

[@flexiblefix-montreal1167]

😂LOL oh god～

[@xxxLesPaulxxx]

your voice reminds me of skippy from edbassmaster

[@monstersinktees]

Great video. You rock! 🤘🏾

[@peterlopez9510]

Where’d you buy the replacement drain plug washer

[@Patrick94GSR]

Cool, we just got a 2014 2.5L in August and I'm about to do my first oil change on it. I'm just glad the filter is easily accessible, unlike my Acura Integra with the filter way up on the back side of the block, facing the firewall! Also I've heard that it's better to change the oil after it's been sitting overnight. I've always done it with the engine warm/hot, but apparently if it's been sitting overnight then much less or even no oil will spill out of the filter. We'll see how that goes.

[@jakeguitar01]

+Patrick94GSR ---Thanks Patrick. For as long as I could remember, I was told oil should actually be changed with the engine warm, so that it flows out easier. I think this was recommended for the simple fact of saving time. However, I actually prefer to do it cold (as long as it's not super cold outside). My thought was that after you drive the car and let it sit to get cold maybe even overnight, all the oil that was pumped up to the top of the engine will drip to the bottom of the pan, and will be drained out more completely when you remove the drain plug. You may have to give it a few more min of dripping, but I always thought it was a more complete oil change.

[@Patrick94GSR]

jakeguitar01 well actually I did the car's oil change last month, with a cold engine, had not been run that day, car still flat on the ground even, and oil STILL spilled out of the oil filter! I think from now on I'll do it with a warm engine, but put it up on the ramps and let it sit for an hour or something before draining. That way most of the oil drains back down into the pan, but it will be much easier to access everything. It was a PITA with the car still sitting on all 4 tires.