How to Clean an Aluminum Intake Manifold

We'll take a look at 7 different options to clean an aluminum intake manifold. Some popular cleaners and a media blasting option. Which is best? Which returns the intake to its closest as cast finish? We'll find out!
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[@claymillican25]

Very informative!!! Thank You 😊

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Thanks bud!

[@gizzmo5952]

I use a product from O'Riley, it's called aluminum brite. It removes everything down to the base aluminum. Works great, and rinses off with water, which neutralizes it. It's made for aluminum parts.

[@smaksymiv4950]

Is phosphoric acid ?

[@smarternu]

Gasoline is a solvent. cheapest and effective. Hence the phrase, "Gas is for cleaning, Alcohol is for drinking and Nitro is for racing."

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Same reason why I didn’t like the muriatic acid, other than the poor results. The risk isn’t worth the reward!

[@Popcorx]

I race with gas all the time wtf fuck nitro

[@VideosBanales]

Gas is alcohol too you can drink it and get drunk

[@jsimmonstx]

you don't use a steel wire brush on aluminum because the steel will rust and end up staining the aluminum.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Excellent point.

[@hybridmusclegarage4590]

Great video!! I always glass bead mine for that out of the box new look. No time for scrubbing lol!!

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

The only thing I didn’t like about the glass beading was it was more shiny when it was done. I like that dull, as cast look when they are new. But I TOTALLY agree. Scrubbing gets old!

[@davidanderson2393]

When I worked for an industrial gas company we tried many products for cleaning to remove hydrocarbons(oil and grease) from metals. Based on personal safety simple green heated up and applied with a scotch brite pad works pretty well. On aluminum with oil and grease removed, I will use diluted alumabrite with a scotch brite pad to bring out the shine in cast parts. Some alumabrite can be very caustic and grey aluminum (stain) so start out diluting it and test in small area.

[@flinch622]

Alumabrite is acidic. Hydrofluoric acid, most formulations. A caustic solution is what is needed to neutralize a spill. I'm thinking a 5% solution? Don't believe that neutralization number blindly - check it out, and it won't be on an SDS. Why not? Damn good question - probably because EPA is controlling format. If an organization policy says "call someone", that's a bad plan [almost no plan]. The first casualty in most true emergencies is communications: so and so is away from their desk, or worse... a casualty. Now what?

[@astrawally8448]

Challenge here is that over time aluminium becomes porous due to surface corrosion, and grease/oils become embedded and that it is almost impossible to remove. A good example in aluminium truck bodies and trailers which get subject to diesel fumes and particulates, most manufacturers will not paint over bare aluminium if it has been used out in for this very reason, as the paint will not adhere and short of an acid dip/etch (impossible due to size), there is nothing more than a clean and polish which can be done. Examples where people have spent $20-30K in labour and materials only to have it peel off in 6 months.

[@TheGforcead]

​@@astrawally8448I know folks who buff flat machined aluminium engine cases on motorcycles and mag rims until they reflect like chrome. I didn't know you could do that, but other than Mother's car wax I don't know what you would use to prevent oxidation? I was amazed but I wouldn't recommend it and it wouldn't work on this application anyway.

[@SPSteve]

Vapor Blasting/honing works really well. I've had a couple vintage intakes done by a local guy and they look brand new. If you have a special intake you need refinished, check for someone in your area who does vapor blasting.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Not exactly a DIY solution, which was the sole purpose of this video. Easy things you can do in your own to get that out of the box look back on an intake.

[@SPSteve]

@@MuscleCarSolutions true and you outlined some good alternatives.

[@hotrodchuck8282]

I put mine in white Vinegar for a week looks like new when i wash it off.

[@wrenchmanhotrods1247]

I have been using a glass bead for years to do my manifolds , it saves a lot of elbow grease and does a great job especially in the hard to reach places .

[@gordocarbo]

Agree,,using a finer glassbead gives nice results wihtout pitting. Quick and easy just make sure none is left inside..easy to miss

[@brucedale4465]

Just pay a machine shop 50 bucks for a properly cleaning and then polish it yourself!

[@nv1493]

By far the easiest way I've found is to use the old harbor freight hand sandblast gun with pretty much any sort of media. Literally like brand new and its not hard to thoroughly clean out the intake tubes. Even the small crevices can't escape...

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

I have a harbor freight system. It’s getting replaced next shop I occupy and have the room! Extremely useful tool!

[@JB-zn1kx]

I use bakingsoda in mine. Very effective and gentle at the sametime. However, it so gentle that it won't remove stains.

[@briang4470]

My favorite thing for cleaning aluminum intakes is to use brake clean/carb clean to get the thick grime and varnish off first, then use either ATF or diesel fuel and soak the intake down with that and then use a nice brass scrub brush, it's time consuming but gives pretty good results.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Now that’s a new one. I might give that a try on this intake.

[@briang4470]

@@MuscleCarSolutions I prefer the ATF or diesel fuel method because after your done, there's a nice protective film on the intake so it won't tarnish or corrode while on the shelf, and when you use that method it's best to soak it and scrub it down several times, everytime you scrub it you will see the trash getting lifted out of the aluminum pores, it's is extremely time consuming but the intake will look almost brand new when your done. I did that recently to my Martin turbo intake for an sbc and the intake was super grimey but it was too nice to sandblast plus I wanted the aluminum to have a kind of shiney finish where sandblasting gives a flat dull finish.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

I’ll have to give it a try. Sounds like a lot of work!

[@msh6865]

Super Purple/Purple Power works great cleaning grimy engine bays. Just spray it on, let it sit then, hit it with a brush and finally a pressure washer. Might work equally well on intakes. 👍

[@ThatOneCatNyx]

Careful with purple power. I'm not sure what the bearing surfaces are made from but PP ate away the bearing surfaces on the VANOS unit on my M54B30 (BMW E46 engine).

[@Spiritof_76]

The acids etch the metal, and when properly neutralized are a good base for primer and paint. If you want to leave the as-cast semi-gloss of aluminum or polish it, I'd skip the acid and use a cleaner.

[@SOLDOZER]

Vapor blasting. Will look good as new but probably cost you almost as much as new.

[@johntisbury]

What did you do tonight? I watched some chap clean an intake manifold with different types of cleaner and tools! LOL

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

I did all the dirty work so you don’t have to! 😂

[@torque395]

I use lacquer thinner and a "chip" brush (those cheapie throw away wood handled brushes that cost 50 cents or so) and then cut the bristles down to about half of their normal length. That gets it pretty good, another option is lacquer thinner and an air powered engine cleaning gun - gasoline works in both cases in place of the lacquer thinner and is just as good or better, but the smell will really get to you, even worse than the lacquer thinner. Both are best done outside, and definitely without any smoking, open flames, welding, grinding etc anywhere nearby. Another thing I like to do is take parts to a car wash, or get out my hot water pressure washer (but be prepared to get soaking wet!) and then with any of these options, you will still have to use a rag and some clean solvent to go over the whole thing to get it entirely clean. A brush alone won't get it all perfectly, nor will pressure. You can "abrasive blast" it with something like glass beads without having to do any wiping with a rag, but like you said it will change the surface appearance. And while you may not need to wipe it with a rag, you do still need to brush or spray away the bulk of the grime first and make sure there's no moisture or "wet" grease on the surface because the blaster will just spread that around and make a bigger mess, as well as contaminate the abrasive media which will prevent you from recycling and reusing it. And don't bother with the walnut shell media or anything similar because in my experience, it's just a waste of time and money. As you can see, there's no "one solution" for aluminum - it really takes a combination of things to get it done right. It's not like steel or iron where you can throw it in the hot-tank and let the caustic chemicals clean it up for you since those chemicals would damage the aluminum....

[@nextphase7481]

I am planning on doing my manifold as well so your review is very helpful. Thanks! My thinking is that you need clean off all the baked-on grease first and then get rid of some of the oxide that has developed on the original cast aluminum. The grease is easier to remove and there are a lot of options (brake/carb cleaners, solvents like acetone, soap & hot water etc.). Removing the oxidation requires more care because you are removing some of the aluminum surface. If you use liquids, like acids or bases, they are corrosive to the metal so make sure they are not too strong, and be very sure to clean the surface thoroughly with water when you're done. You wouldn't want any of those casting pits to become holes! And leaving any bleach behind can turn the aluminum dark or even black. Safer to use abrasives (paper, metal brushes, or walnut shell blast). Thanks again for taking the time to share your work.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

The products used were all suggested from viewers who had their “go to” method for cleaning intakes. Simple Green is my go to, and while I’m a little biased in it, the results showed why it’s the best. If something else comes along that’s better, I’ll be on that bandwagon next!

[@313GHETTOFABULOUS]

Please try what i use on anything aluminum. 1st, Use Easy Off oven cleaner first step. (No other brand) Then use NAPPA Auto Parts Aluma Brite on the second step. It'll be just like new again!

[@moparnut6286]

Super clean then into the blast cabinet.. Then either a 2k clear and no single stage clear will hold up! Or high heat paint of the color of your choice and done. Skip all the chemicals they take to long.

[@mikemartin9208]

Always pour acids into the water, never pour water into acids. The acids can actually flash boil the water as you are adding water to acid. FYI

[@aobirdman18]

The thing about the brushes is inducing corrosion because of the dissimilar metals between the aluminum and stainless steel. Stainless steel can seriously corrode aluminum

[@malcolmdyer6090]

I would have started with hot soapy water, let the chems get the ingrained muck out.

[@michaelakers8698]

Let me tell you a truck driver secret ( Costic soda ) mix 1 and a half cups to two gallons of water spray it on let it sit for about a minute or two then wash off with plenty of water wear eye protection and don't spray on pain it will take it off

[@Amack1964]

Vapor blasting returns them to the out of the box look have done a few now and love the finish

[@ivermec-tin666]

I have heard very good things about Simple Green Extreme for cleaning and degreasing aluminum. It was specifically engineered for use on aircraft, and will not etch or eat aluminum. My experience indicates that kerosene is just as effective as any canned aerosol cleaner, and less caustic, although it is flammable.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Used kerosene a lot when I was younger, but it’s not a detergent so it leaves behind a lot of what it just took off. Other than that, it does clean well!

[@Monkeybizness707]

As a former aircraft mechanic in the marine corps (KC-130s) I can tell you that we were forbidden from using simple green on our aircraft because it is corrosive to aluminum if not completely cleaned off. Having said that, if you completely clean it I'm sure it is fine.

[@ivermec-tin666]

@@Monkeybizness707 Simple Green Extreme is very different than their main product line. Extreme is specifically formulated for use on AL. The regular Simple Green product will etch AL with a vengeance.

[@mironkusnecov5728]

The reason why you really don’t want to use a metal brush on aluminum is the metal brush leaves traces of metal particles behind that will rust overtime. Same thing as if you’re cleaning stainless.

[@jimurrata6785]

Stainless wire brush is fine (just like if prepping aluminum for TIG) But, yeah steel wool or brush is not a great idea.

[@jwiger]

I wonder how some pressure washing with some degreaser would have gone. Also maybe some mag wheel cleaner.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Someone also made the power wash suggestion and it’s a good one. I’ll have to give it a go sometime. The wheel cleaner I’m not too sure on.

[@jwiger]

@@MuscleCarSolutions yeah with a removed intake pressure wash saves some elbow grease. A wheel would leave a shadow in the texture of the rough cast. It would work great on machined surfaces though.

[@born2wrench]

The best is to be able to spray it on and that is EAGLE mag wheel cleaner for non coated wheels (etching spray) Also the yellow can of oven cleaner

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Oven cleaner says specifically right in the instructions not to use on aluminum. Wheel cleaner is a polish. If you’re looking for a brighter finish, I’m sure that would be more to your liking. I’m after a dull, as cast finish that clear of stains and dirt/grit/grease/etc.

[@1973406]

After cleaning, leave it natural and douse it with wd-40. Dry it off with a microfiber towel. Any stains in the future can be cleaned with a blast of wd and a wipe with a microfiber towel

[@xlr8r3VA]

When I clear coat bare aluminum I use a satin clear coat. The glossy makes it look weird to me.

[@howardblasingame7961]

Keep it simple: Simple Green

[@jasoncardoza6375]

I love these diy videos and this one is awesome. But Just mask the machine surface with gorilla tape and spend $20 for a shop to bead blast it. Use brake kleen to remove tape residue. If you clean it yourself you’re paying half that in chemicals + your time. 90% of the people that scrub them don’t finish anyways because it’s tedious and sucks. But hey if you have a lot of time and patience knock yourself out. Or you can buy the HF sand blaster kit a buy glass and you’ll be able to do much more things too. Just my experience with it

[@richgenereux908]

simple green definitely safer to use

[@dinadaughtry8993]

I used some old sandblasting sand on an old 289 torquer and then blew it off with air then sprayed self etching clear coat for marine engines looked great and still does that was a few years ago but I can't find the self etching clear coat any more

[@leestevens4536]

Brass is softer and less likely to scratch the piece.😊

[@whereisamerica7384]

Blasting works best with soda on aluminum. I know this will sound nuts, but WD40 followed by Napa or Tractor Supply Aluminum Brightner(aluminum trailer cleaner) and a pressure washer seems to work best. Other than hot tanking that is.

[@michaelgarrow3239]

I just stick them into my Acme time portal. Gets it clean and removes scratches too.🤓

[@joshuaray9063]

Best things iver ever used with cleaning alloy parts, back when I used to for work caterpillar (westrac) was the CAT brand "PENETRATING OIL" Literally spray it on, leave it a few minutes the a quick scrub. But the cheaper way I found was using "5 stars - Degreaser" I'm quite certain the crushed walnut shell is for car panels etc because the friction from using sand heats what ever your sand blasting where the walnut shell grit is meant to have sharper edges and doesn't cause as much friction so less heat.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Lots of different products out there to clean cast aluminum. Kind of cool to hear of ones I’ve never heard of before. In the end all that really matters is it’s clean and in the condition you want it when it’s done. Thanks for the comment!

[@420kushmaster]

we use simple green to clean tanks in the Army

[@johnfry9010]

Best stuff I ever used for this is a Cleanser type product called ZUD , it is still around and it works great , I was using this stuff back in the 70's . I forgot to mention I also used a brush with it to scrub the manifold and rinse it with water . Glass bead blast in my opinion is the absolute best but for a cleanup in between the ZUD does the trick .

[@cobramike13bravo63]

I say mix all chemicals together. 💣

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

This is excellent. 😂😂

[@sltillim]

SOS pad and hot water. Could be followed up by simple green or acetate. But look at these new aluminum finishes from Seymour and Eastwood

[@ronnieellsworth9223]

Try powder coat in a satin or flat after the simple green and acetone fix. Thanks for the tests. Ronnie.

[@Bigjeffie13]

I never personally used it but I saw someone clean one with a product called aluminum bright and it worked very well.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

I go for back to an intakes as cast condition. Im not big on chrome or shiny stuff. Others might love that as an option.

[@gizzmo5952]

That's what I use for all my aluminum parts, the rear crossover for the rearend on my vettes, manifolds, valve covers, anything aluminum. Gets all the grease, stains, paint, everything down to base aluminum. Even aluminum heads. Just rinse with water to neutralize it when done, can pick it up from O'Riley's and doesn't cost that much. Pour it in a spray bottle. Works great.

[@flinch622]

Acetone I try on stubborn stains sometimes, but first.... mineral spirits. Most staining is from gasoline, and spirits lift out varnishes well - oil or gas.

[@jb314stl]

Muriatic acid works best by making an acid/water solution in a large bucket or tub. If you set it in the solution for about 10 minutes, it will work ten times better.

[@Ecosse57]

when i was growing up it was understood shooting clear on an intake would indeed yellow. i think because of the heat. however, modern clears have come a long way so i'd be interested if better results would be seen with the modern stuff.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Wondering the same thing. I’m sure someone has some experience with good prep and product that works well.

[@fishingdaily4692]

Do the acid couple times it will look way better and you spray it walk away come back wash it done

[@zackk695]

Great video! I couldn’t quit watching it. Something relaxing and satisfying about taking a piece and making it look great. I wanted to see you use water because I think the brush is really what did the cleaning.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Thanks! Water won’t lift the oil and dirt. That intake was lightly pressure washed when I brought it home. Didn’t really remove any of that deep down nastiness.

[@zackk695]

@@MuscleCarSolutionswire wheel on a drill brother.

[@jonathanabeld2326]

I used muratic acid to get rid of all the fuel and oil staining and in spots where I had cleaned it brought it to pretty nice finish, I'm just trying to get a clean surface for paint but I'll use simple green to finish it

[@craigcampbell5129]

We use a lot of renews coil cleaner it's actually designed to clean aluminum

[@gb123-ej8wh]

Why should you clean an intake manifold? Maybe if you’re changing it you want the new one to be clean but

[@Milkmans_Son]

Pine Sol in an old crock pot or otherwise heated container is king. Or fake Pine-Sol rather, because real Pine-Sol doesn't contain pine oil any longer but the generic versions do... strange but true. Anyway, as long as it's all aluminum it can sit in there as long as you want, steel or cast iron can't. Also, they say not to use a brush made from dissimilar metals because some inevitably gets imbedded in whatever you are cleaning and galvanic corrosion will make the surface look like shit in a year or so, depending on moisture. Likewise for blasting--if your media is contaminated with steel and cast iron, even worse corrosion issue as above.

[@jeffjohnon4223]

Use the liquid carb cleaner, not the spray stuff.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Works ok and a good degreaser, but the detergent properties in a cleaner gets the finished product looking for like it came from the factory.

[@plumSRT]

CLR and a toothbrush does wonders, also.

[@boycehembree7614]

Alliuminum bright from napa works great

[@ericmesi1764]

Edlebrock if you use a wire brush their aluminum is not as tolerant, shows wire brush lines right away barely touching it.

[@mustangmadness2619]

I have used a sand blaster works very good, just turn the air pressure down for aluminum = 75 - 80 lbs. Tape up any surfaces that you dont want blssted.

[@mustangmadness2619]

I have also used good automotive clear not rattle can clear with good results.

[@davidstuck2866]

We use muriatic acid to DISOLVE ALUMINUM off from cylinder walls. So I would NOT use it on an aluminum manifold!

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Yup. It’s gnarly stuff.

[@JeffersS13]

Vapour blasting or aqua blasting or whatever you want to call it, basically glass media in water is without question the best way to clean aluminium parts. They come out looking better than new with a nice satin sheen. It is not worth the effort or time of doing it by hand yourself.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Not exactly something that’s found in any DIY’ers garage! 😂

[@remijiomendez1698]

Try Off Oven Cleaner, I use it to clean all my truck parts. Beautiful results. Even on heavy oil and soil 😊

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

@@remijiomendez1698 there’s a reason why the instructions say not to use it on aluminum. I’ve seen results that are less than ideal. Turns the color black.

[@deadcarnahans1932]

I ALWAYS paint my manifolds. Paint protects what's under it. Unfortunately I now have a second hand intake that was not painted. I'm just going to wire brush the heck out of it so it will accept Hunter Green.

[@karljay7473]

One big issue is the concentration of the cleaner. I used a purple degreaser from Walmart that was about $12 for 2.5 gallons and once I started using a higher concentration, it changed things. Another is temp and pressure. Check out the professional "dish washer" type cleaner where it uses hot pressurized cleaner that spins around the parts. Any harsh brush is going to dig into the metal and change it. Stiff nylon after a long soaking is the key. There is a non-yellow clear from a can, Eastwood is one of the places that sells it, but it'll always be different from new. Media blasting AFTER cleaning is the way to get back to newish. The size and hardness of the media is a big deal.

[@VinoRatRodbuilds]

Awesome demo! I would have lost this bet, simple Green wow! wouldn't have seen that coming.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

It’s been my go to for quite a while for intakes. Just can’t let it sit on it for long. Works well! Looks awesome!

[@jamesprice1123]

Electrolysis Is the best, zinc / aluminum anode/cathode

[@shadowslayer0420]

You cannot use anything with steel bristles or anything that was previously used on steel of any sort. This includes sandpaper, cutting wheels, etc. The reason is because you can and will embed small bits of steel into the aluminum which can and WILL cause galvanic corrosion. Ya know, that white chalky looking garbage that builds up around steel bolts that are holding aluminum parts? Aluminum reacts this way simply from touching steel. Same goes the other way too, never use anything on steel that has already been used on aluminum

[@gordocarbo]

take it your local shop who has a tumbler after you give it a basic clean. It will look like it was just poured at the foundry!! Tried blasting wtih different medias, nothing wrong with it but the tumbler..holy cr4p killer results!

[@astrawally8448]

I've successfully used sodium bicarbonate as a blasting medium on cast alloys to bring up that 'as cast' shine. Due to its fine particles, it does a better job in the detail. Being water soluble, it can be easily removed with little chance of leaving behind the blasting medium, which is an issue with walnut, silica, etc.

[@jackyyog190]

Hey not trying to throw shade but the reason you don't use a steel wire brush is because it can impregnate the aluminium with steel and cause it to corrode...

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

No shade thrown or received! I grabbed everything I had for the test. Outside of a dozen other cleaning solutions folks have suggested! Maybe a part 2?

[@darylmorse]

Muriatic acid is another name for hydrochloric acid. It's not caustic. Caustic is the opposite of acidic. I hope there wasn't anything important under your workbench in case the acid spilled through the crack. After using any kind of acid, including bleach, you need to neutralize it with something like sodium bicarbonate after you are finished. As others pointed out, it's not a good idea to use a metal brush an aluminum.

[@mrgreenswelding2853]

Use a stainless steel brush if you use a brush Muriatic acid is acidic not caustic.

[@WhatAmIGonnaGet]

Hi. Muriatic acid:. Heed caution in the garage. If you are looking to ruin the chrome on an adjacent motorcycle, then feel free to use that in either closed or open areas. It will put and corrode chrome, and all other metal surfaces within hours. The fumes carry and deposit, you can't see it at first. By the next day you will surely know and regret it. If you see a contractor or someone else using that on concrete, near your car - well, have fun with his insurance carrier after you show him rust dots all over every exposed metal surface, rims, frame, etc. Bicycles, fences, everything steel.

[@danfrick397]

Wow did ya read the chemical labels for aluminum ? Acid will consume your intake and Brass is softer than steel .

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

In literally the first minute of the video I let you know that some of these were subscribers suggestions. Pretty sure we also addressed why some of those weren’t such a hot idea. The suggestions were made and I was happy to oblige.

[@shoominati23]

Hey, if you really want to make the problem go away - send it to me! I could really use one for my autocrosser build lol. But seriously now the best I have seen is hydroblasting and the penultimate is dry ice blasting (who can afford one of those rigs in their home workshop though apart from Rebuild Rescue)

[@pthrelkeld090]

You need some crack spackle fur that work bench! 😂😂

[@jeanlawson9133]

Mineral Spirits no. 5 wash tub pencil style air nozzle put intake in tub fill with mineral spirits put air nozzle in tub after opening valve slightly position air nozzle under intake creating bubbles will agitate mineral spirits.... leave over night.... welcome 😎

[@bobbytheitguy4289]

When you do comparison tests, you should always have a control (like clean water} just demonstrate that its the product removing the stain and not just the liquidity of the substance you are using.

[@pthrelkeld090]

You're missing the best, most effective product in my opinion. That would be barkeeps bestfriend, incredible stuff, and you can use it without having to wear full hazmat gear😂

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Never heard of it!

[@craigdougan8484]

Barkeepers Friend is great on stainless steel. Not sure about aluminum- says it has "micro abrasives."?

[@amazeddude1780]

Come on man! Steel bristles on aluminum? Do you intend to scratch the alloy? Line up of chemicals is kind of crazy too; hydrochloric acid dissolves aluminum, or at the very least etches it. You seem to arbitrarily decide that carb cleaner and brake cleaner are the some chemical.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

I’m fairly certain within the first minute of the video I explain these cleaning solutions were given as suggestions. I guess you missed that part.

[@amazeddude1780]

@@MuscleCarSolutions I did note that the selection was based on viewer requests. I see you want to show you have an open mind, but I can pretty much guarantee that some yahoo will mess around with the acid, or add a couple of chemicals together, thinking to double the cleaning power. I'm not trying to be excessively negative, but I was kind of shocked- that's my personal opinion, but I respect yours also.

[@godsowndrunk1118]

I've had good results using carb cleaner....i stand the intake up on edge and spray the heck out of it. Standing it up allows the cleaner to run off....where it puddles up, it leaves a stain, so you may have to chase it around a bit.

[@randallmason9687]

I like Simple Green, and Awesome brand cleaner. Blasting with glass beads, plastic media, or walnut shells all work. It can be a pain to get the glass beads out of the bolt holes!!

[@andrewhall836]

I'm restoring and modifying an old Kawasaki KZ750e and the aluminium has oxidised BADLY!! (Bike store outside for 12 years under a porch!) This has helped immensely!! Thanks! L&R From Down Under. Andrew

[@michaelwelch557]

Thanks, Thanks, Thanks...And yes, Dawn does work well but s you said, it does NOT remove some stains. and it does need to be washed/wiped off after use.

[@djmachete005]

I have tried M.E.K (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) that I bought at my local hardware store and it does a good cleaning and brightening job .But only tested a small area ready to try again.

[@steveadams6631]

Getting back. To. The. Aluminum Brite. Don't. Make. It. Brite. Just. Clean.s. it...spray. on.. wash. Off. It.s. just. Called. Brite.

[@vernleroyson331]

Dollar store oven cleaner first then Coke a Cola-Citric acid-Blue Magic mix. Apply with 000000 steel wool.

[@silverstreak232]

One thing to remember about acetone is that it evaporates into acetylene gas. So, proper ventilation would be a good idea. Acetylene gas is heavier than air and will lay low to the ground which can create a hazard. It won't dissipate into the air easily. Also, I used a lot of Simple Greene to clean dies and production tooling. It worked very well, and in some cases it was all we were permitted to use because it safest to use. It's hard to get a brand new as cast finish because the surface of the aluminum develops a thin layer of oxidation that will dull the appearance. Very good video! I enjoyed it and learned something new!

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Simple Green will always be the go to cleaner in this situation.

[@holly-jothompson3717]

good video thanks for making and sharing it. before i watched yer video i had been searching the web. and one of them. mentioned a simple green id not used or knew about. Simpe Green Extreme Aircraft & Precision Cleaner. used on aircraft bodies, safe to be applied on all surfaces. including fabric , and carbon fiber. it also is safe on gaskets, seals and rubber hoses. etc. also found some household items to try which i will be attempting. cream of tartar. is one 2 tsp of vinegar per 1qt water. boil 15minutes. then put part in mixture (it doesnt say wethet to keep boiling or to turn off heat after boiling for 15minutes ) then leave partin solution to soak for. a decent amount of minutes. says if large area. same process except take rag. and saturate it in solution and wipe part etc. lemon and kosher salt. baking soda and water and vinegar are a couple others. these are mentioned as oxidation removers or general cleaning may not be viable degreaser. but all safe for cast aluminum. also theres this general cleaner like simple green. found at dollar general. its in a gallon jug. and yellow in color. ive seen a few. videos. of people making at home hot tanks using this cleaner with 55 gal drums to ckean cast aluminum blocks, heads etc. with pretty good results with just soaking it. ne ways. hope this helps. be sure and do search for the specific amounts and length of time needed or being used so that to ensure no surprises results or reactions and safety. etc.

[@eazyrider6122]

A Can of Contact cleaner is expensive but it saves alot of work and bullshit. For that job youhave there you may use a little over a can so ide say get 2 cans and it will come back like new. Not bad for approx $20 Australian per can. And no prep or waste or problems. You should have at least half a can left over as well so call it a $30 job.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

I had that on the list of things folks suggested, but I dismissed it. I’ve still got some ugly spots on this intake. I may give that one a try. Thanks!

[@stevelangworthy9553]

I really did not expect to see the Simple Green at the top of the list like that. Thanks for the product review and demonstration.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

It’s been a long time favorite. Edelbrock seems to think so too. Cuts through all the garage and stains and washes off clean.

[@timhudson8958]

Sams club has a gallon jug of commercial kitchen degreaser that is the best I’ve used yet! I haven’t tried it on a aluminum intake but it I’ll strip grease of everything else with no scrubbing.

[@cobrabuilder9336]

We Vapor Hone them, always looks like new, then clear powder coat. On new manifolds, we coat them any color under the rainbow and clear.

[@davidkeeton6716]

Just use degreaser and a pressure washer, then use some aluminum wheel cleaner for open pore aluminum. Don't let it stay on there long, maybe 30-45 seconds. Then hose it off with a garden hose. Maybe Don't even put on the nozzle and the water pressure not up very high. You don't want that cleaner getting on you as it is an acid. Kinda mild acid but still, SAFETY FIRST. Gloves long sleeve shirt, long pants, safety glasses. All this hurts a lot less than having the cleaner hurt you. Anyway you will love the results. It works great. I've used it on an aluminum water pump that was looking dingy too. Just tape up around the openings and the seal area and don't forget the weep hole. Made it look new.

[@laurensiemens1436]

With acetone you really need to use in a well vented area.

[@sportsmansparadice42]

I would just hot tank it. Then media blast, and calling a day

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Sure, if that’s available to you. But for the diy guy in his garage, this is the cost effective way to get it cleaned up and ready to go.

[@Hillbillygarage1215]

I do appreciate the info and will use your suggestions. Thank you

[@davidsumpter7572]

Jus use aluminum brighter from you're local part store save all that headache 😊

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

I made that point early on. I wasn’t looking to brighten the finish. Only return it back to its as cast finish.

[@jackwill3578]

PRESSURE WASH FIRST PINESOL SOAK THEN PRESSURE WASH AGAIN

[@terry3665]

Try Simple Green Pro, it is not only stronger but doesn't have the nasty smell of regular Simple Green, and it's cheaper