This Is How To Do A Complete Brake Job On A Porsche Boxster 986!

[@bladezero25]

How much did it cost you total versus going to the mechanic?

[@JAYREAD]

I should have added that to the video! BUGGER! Dealer quoted $1,770.50 whereas I bought the kit for front and rear from FCP Euro @ $441.76. So, a saving of $1,328.74. Plus doing it myself gave me an enormous sense of achievement given that I am a total muppet!

[@vancityflyguy]

@@JAYREAD total muppet but a demon driver...i think i’ve heard that somewhere:)

[@vancityflyguy]

Very well done Jay! I’m always hesitant to play around with the brakes but you make it look so easy, i may have to give it a try next time;) little green is coming together quite nicely👍🏻

[@JAYREAD]

@@vancityflyguy lol! Fair on both counts!

[@gsk5161]

@@JAYREAD just for comparison, on my MR2 Spyder, Firestone did this for $880, labor and materials. I think the Porsche tax is definitely real. Great video!!

[@jScizz]

Love your honesty and humour. Enjoy all your videos, makes me fell better abut the silly mistakes I make. As a recent Boxster owner your videos are invaluable in givnig me the confidene to tackle those scary jobs. Please carry on producing and well done Louis for the great camera work.

[@JAYREAD]

Thanks Jonathan! Glad you’re enjoying it all! Yes, even an idiot like me can do (some of) this!

[@wilbertmcmaster8025]

Great job Jay. Like the way you don't edit out your mistakes but share them. So much easier for others to then avoid them. Keep up the good work.

[@JAYREAD]

Thanks Wilbert!

[@phillipjones6848]

Excellent work Jay. Great to have such good lighting and camera work which shows in detail how it’s done. Pity about the key to the lock nuts, would have thought you would have been able to get a second hand one in the USA. Also the tool kit which came with the car has an aluminium rod which screws into the top hole on the hub to help with the alignment of the lug nuts and carries the weight of the wheel whilst you bolt in the four others.

[@JAYREAD]

That’s a great post for those that follow me. Thanks a lot, Phillip!

[@hawkinsjd11]

I have done my brakes and my brothers brakes on the 986. It is a pretty easy job.

[@JAYREAD]

It is!

[@gamechanger8382]

Can’t wait for you to debut the 996 replacement!

[@JAYREAD]

Me too although it might be a while at these prices!

[@KatherineColeTipsandTools]

So fun to watch you, Jay!

[@JAYREAD]

Thank you, ma’am!

[@alexanderschonfeld5879]

Forming of lips on discs seems to be "normal" for Boxster's brakes... On most cars, pads take almost all the wear, but I guess, for better braking performance they allow the discs to thin out too faster than on ordinary cars

[@EdA-bz3bu]

“No worries”. Great courage jay. I tell my kids one has to be scared first in order to be brave. 👍

[@JAYREAD]

Ain’t that the truth!

[@bjbraunlich]

Great video. Keep them coming.

[@JAYREAD]

Thanks Brandon!

[@TheWombatCredenza]

Great video Jay!

[@JAYREAD]

Thank you!

[@L-I-V-I-N--JT]

I knew exactly what the newbie mistake was! 😂😂 I’ve done that a time a two over the years!!

[@JAYREAD]

😆🤡

[@jaapthieme6561]

Nice job Jay!

[@JAYREAD]

Thanks Jaap!

[@Santacruztazmon]

Thanks Jay!

[@JAYREAD]

My pleasure!

[@tima4207]

I like to remove the pad wear sensors first. Then remove the pad fitting spring/pin, slightly compress the pads, remove the pads, and remove the caliper bolts. Then clean, inspect the seals and rebuild. Brakes are so simple and you can save $$ over time doing them yourself while getting a better outcome.

[@JAYREAD]

Thanks for the tip!

[@brucewayne2773]

The pad sensor wire should be on the outside of the brake pad retainer. There is a spot for it on the retainer.

[@JAYREAD]

I’ll fix it! Thanks.

[@gregmartin7426]

Thanks for your great videos Jay

[@JAYREAD]

Oh thank you! Truly happy to hear you enjoy them!

[@keepsmiling1484]

Another great video - great commentary, great visual, all round a really good watch! Keep ‘em comin’ 😁 After a few months of work on mine, I’m just about to get it back on the road for the Summer and can’t wait! Well done 👍

[@JAYREAD]

Thank you! Really glad you enjoyed it. More coming soon!

[@achimo.9917]

Nice job, BUT you still got something wrong! The brake sensor cable must be on top of the clip/bracket!!! Now it sits on the brake disk and will wear out fast. Check your video at e.g. ~5:50.

[@JAYREAD]

Ooops!

[@Canadian_Icecube]

Yep… should be on the topside of the clip.

[@steveedwards2607]

HI Jay, good video and you did it saved a lot of cash as well. Lip on brake disc is normal, they diidn't look too bad to me, but there is a minimum thickness for the Disc, then its time to change. You can also get a re-machine of the disc whilst on the car, not sure of cost though, any way well done!

[@JAYREAD]

Thanks a lot, Steve! Appreciate the insight!

[@JJL206]

Love your work, Jay! Thanks for showing the changing brakes isn't rocket science! How many hours of your time did it take? A couple of notes...from a guy who''s done this on his own 987 Boxster(s)... twice. - Probably best to put the car on four jack stands if possible for more economy of time in prepping each wheel, and more ease when doing the brake flush. - Remove some brake fluid before you start the replacement process (instead of after...). - Use needle nose pliers to release the cotter pin before you tap out the post that holds the brake pad retaining spring. - Use a bungee cord to hang the caliper from the shock springs so you don't stress the hydraulic line. - Buy rotors with coated hubs (or tape them off and paint them on your own with a high heat paint), otherwise you will have rust on your hands and you won't like the look of it. - It's usually a good idea to spray some penetrating oil on the caliper bracket bolt and the two rotor retaining screws and let them sit before removing. - You already got the word on the sensor wire placement. On some Boxster/Cayman models (thinking 987) the front sensor wires have two sizes. One is 1/4" long than the other...go figure! Question: Did you have the option of getting cross-drilled rotors, like Zimmerman, or ceramic (low dust) pads, like Akebono? Keep up the great work!

[@JAYREAD]

Brilliant post! I’m glad you took the time to post this because it’ll really help anyone who watches! Appreciate it!

[@hawkinsjd11]

lol the parking breake my friend!

[@JAYREAD]

Errrm, well, yes. I have no excuse!

[@andyp6724]

Great stuff Jay. Bring on the Boxster content. You’ve now inspired me to take on my brakes😅. Keep up the good work 👍

[@JAYREAD]

Great stuff, Andy. You should try it. It’s not that hard. Really.

[@Puchtahans]

Nice video thank you 🙏🏼 . Do you have Traction Control? Is there anything I should watch out for when it comes to traction control?

[@JAYREAD]

Nothing to worry about as far as traction control is concerned. Makes no difference.

[@boffam00]

I swear, when it comes to fumbling through mechanic jobs, we are brothers from another mother! Well done to get it done and done well. Did you transfer over the anti-squeal shims?

[@JAYREAD]

I don’t know what those are! LOL! Yes, I got it done…JUST.

[@michaelpasiuk9332]

Nice job Jay! I own the same brake Bleeder and love it, but I never pump the brakes.. I just pressurize to 20 psi and open the brake nipple. When you pumped the brakes 5 times was it before or after you opened the brake nipple ? .. again nice job!

[@JAYREAD]

Thanks a lot, Michael! After the nipple was opened. Really pumped the fluid out.

[@blackstar1138]

Jay LOVE your videos and your style… just curious if there’s a way to balance your sound levels between the commentary and the music? The music portions come on soo loud. Anyway….always looking forward to seeing your next video. Cheers -Andy

[@JAYREAD]

Sorry about that, Andy! Glad you still enjoyed it! I’ll watch that next time!

[@gbass7328]

That lip doesn't matter, it's the minimum rotor thickness that does and you use a micrometer tool to measure that. Not expensive at all.

[@JAYREAD]

Isn’t the lip the sign that the rotor thickness has reduced though? Ergo, if you have a sizeable lip then you have a thinner rotor?

[@gbass7328]

@@JAYREAD Yes it shows that the metal has worn away some but the minimum spec stamped on the rotor is the bottom line. Not that there is a lip.

[@JAYREAD]

@@gbass7328 Got it! Thanks. Appreciate the post!

[@vesquam9940]

Hey Jay, Did you move the brake sensor cables from under the brake pad bracket (metal spring that keeps the pads in place). That wire will perish quite fast otherwise. The loop on the brake pad bracket is there to retain the wire. The brake sensor wire before in the right place: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pKbSdHejgrKUa7c The brake sensor wire before wrongly under the retainer spring: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pKbSdHejgrKUa7c Really like to see your videos (my car is in the shop), can't wait to get back on ranching myself.

[@JAYREAD]

I know, I know! It’s on the list of things to do! 🤓

[@jdkroh]

good job!

[@JAYREAD]

Thanks Jeremy! Sort of!

[@brightenupcc]

Your brake sensor wire was put back on the wrong side of the brake pad tension bracket

[@JAYREAD]

Yes! I’m an idiot!

[@brightenupcc]

Not at all Jay. I would have prob done the same! Kudos to you for giving these things a go. Huge respect!

[@gsk5161]

Dang, for a middle aged fellow you move pretty quick! 😂😂

[@JAYREAD]

I look old for my age! Lol!

[@mrh6577]

Good job, I recently replace my discs and upgraded them from 330mm to the turbo 350mm ones, just a few things worth noting. The discs on my car are not only front and back but left and right handed. The ventilation on the disc has to face the correct direction. Anyone fitting discs needs to take a note of this. As yours are not drilled I’m unsure if this is still the case? Are they on the correct side? If not they won’t cool correctly. When fitting the long pin back into the calliper and through the pads you should use a ceratex brake grease which prevents brake squeal. A small amount of the same grease should be used on the pins which the pads sit on. Only a small amount and be careful not to get it on the disc face. ALL the pins on mine were seized and I had to cut them out! The grease also prevents seizing. If the pin is seized, When banging the pin out the punch you are using, not a screw driver 😂 can bounce and damage the outside of the calliper. Be very careful when knocking the pin out, with the correct hammer. 😂 You were very lucky, it took ages to get mine out. When fitting the disc back you should always clean the hub which there being fitted to. Any rubbish on the hub can cause brake vibrations and the disc not to run true. You can clean it with a light sand paper. I wouldn’t advise using an opened end spanner on the brake nipples. You were very fortunate and could have easily rounded the nipple off. I would always use a ring spanner Keep up the good work 👍

[@JAYREAD]

Great advice! Thank you!

[@motorsandmeats88]

fiLMed iN rEaL tiME 😂

[@JAYREAD]

Hahahaha!

[@TheLambo123254]

Cool

[@knoxyish]

theres only one thing -take off that lovly omega aqua terra off!! while working on a car!!!

[@JAYREAD]

lol! Fair. I will.

[@SpasticusMaximus]

I think I misread the title.

[@JAYREAD]

LOL!

[@alphaboy1872]

Nice job Jay!

[@JAYREAD]

Thanks!

[@JAYREAD]

Thanks!

[@andrewlundie8155]

@@JAYREAD Thanks Jay. Very interesting and I will certainly have a go next time the brakes need sorting. Must get hold of a bleeding kit. Was it especially for Porsche so it screws onto the brake fluid reservoir ?

[@JAYREAD]

@@andrewlundie8155 no. Generic.